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TRANSCRIPT
The Best of Hawaii from $80 a Day
There’s no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched mid-Pacific islands.Here you’ll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascad-ing waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and volcanoes soaring 2miles into the sky. And oh, those beaches—gold, red, black, and even green sandscaressed by endless surf.
Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. Ifyou’re not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps sell-ing shells from the Philippines, the hokey faux culture of cellophane-skirted huladancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get onthat “free” sailing trip. That’s where this guide comes in. As Hawaii residents, we cantell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. We’re here to steer you away from thecrowded, the overrated, and the overpriced—and toward the best Hawaii has to offer.This guide will make sure that your every dollar is well spent.
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THE HAWAII FROM $80 A DAY PREMISEThis premise might seem like a pipedream, but it’s not. The idea is this: Withgood planning and a watchful eye, you cankeep your basic daily living costs—accom-modations and three meals a day—downto as little as $80 per person. This budgetmodel works best for two adults travelingtogether who have at least $160 a day towork with and can share a double room(single rooms are much less cost-efficient).This way, if you aim for accommodationscosting around $100 for a double, you’llbe left with about $30 per person per dayfor food (less drinks and tips).
If you want to keep things evencheaper, we’ll show you how to do that,too. But, in defining this basic premise,we at Frommer’s have assumed that youwant to travel comfortably, probably withyour own room rather than a hostel bunk(even if it does mean a shared bathroom),
and dining on good food rather than fastfood at every meal. This book will alsoserve you well even if you don’t need tokeep your two-person budget to anabsolutely strict $160 a day, but you wantto keep the tabs down and get the mostfor your money at every turn. It will, onthe other side of the coin, also meet yourneeds if you want to travel on the ultra-cheap—for less than $80 a day—bycamping out in clean hostels and eatingas cheaply as possible.
Of course, the cost of sightseeing, trans-portation, and entertainment are all extras.But don’t worry—although many ofHawaii’s outings and eco-adventures arequite pricey, we’ve got plenty of sugges-tions on how to keep those bills down, too.Only you know how much money youhave to spend; but with our advice, you’llbe able to make informed decisions onwhat to see and do. If you stick to our rec-ommendations, it’ll be money well spent.
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I F R O M $ 8 0 A D AY6
1 The Best Beaches• Lanikai Beach (Oahu): Too gor-
geous to be real, this stretch along theWindward Coast is one of Hawaii’spostcard-perfect beaches—a mile ofgolden sand as soft as powdered sugarbordering translucent turquoisewaters. The year-round swimmingpool–calm waters are excellent forswimming, snorkeling, and kayaking.To complete the picture, there aretwo tiny offshore islands that func-tion not only as scenic backdrops butalso as bird sanctuaries. See “Beaches”in chapter 5.
• Hapuna Beach (Big Island): Thishalf-mile–long crescent regularlywins kudos in the world’s top travelmagazines as the most beautifulbeach in Hawaii—some consider itone of the most beautiful beaches inthe whole world. One look and you’llsee why: Perfect cream-colored sandslopes down to crystal-clear watersthat, in the summer, are great forswimming, snorkeling, and bodysurf-ing; come winter, waves thunder inlike stampeding wild horses. Thefacilities for picnicking and campingare top-notch, and there’s plenty ofparking. See p. 283.
• Kapalua Beach (Maui): On anisland of many great beaches,Kapalua takes the prize. This goldencrescent with swaying palms is pro-tected from strong winds and cur-rents by two outstretched lava-rockpromontories. Its calm waters areperfect for snorkeling, swimming,and kayaking. The beach bordersthe Kapalua Bay Hotel, but it’s longenough for everyone to enjoy. Facil-ities include showers, restrooms,and lifeguards. See “Beaches” inchapter 7.
• Papohaku Beach (Molokai): One ofHawaii’s longest beaches, these goldsands stretch on for some 3 miles,and are about as wide as a footballfield. Offshore, the ocean churnsmightily in winter, but the waves diedown in summer, making the calmwaters inviting for swimming. Papo-haku is also great for picnics, beachwalks, and sunset watching. See“Beaches” in chapter 8.
• Hulopoe Beach (Lanai): Thisgolden, palm-fringed beach off thesouth coast of Lanai gently slopesdown to the azure waters of a MarineLife Conservation District, whereclouds of tropical fish flourish andspinner dolphins come to play. A tidepool in the lava rocks defines one sideof the bay, while the other is lordedover by the Manele Bay Hotel, whichsits prominently on the hill above.Offshore, you’ll find good swim-ming, snorkeling, and diving. On-shore, there’s a full complement ofbeach facilities, from restrooms tocamping areas. See “Beaches” inchapter 9.
• Haena Beach (Kauai): Backed byverdant cliffs, this curvaceous NorthShore beach has starred as Paradise inmany a movie. It’s easy to see whyHollywood loves Haena Beach, withits grainy golden sand and translu-cent turquoise waters. Summermonths bring calm waters for swim-ming and snorkeling, while winterbrings mighty waves for surfers.There are plenty of facilities onhand, including picnic tables, rest-rooms, and showers. See “Beaches”in chapter 10.
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T H E B E S T D E S T I N AT I O N S F O R L O W - C O S T V A C AT I O N S 7
2 The Best Destinations for Low-Cost Vacations• The Hamakua Coast (the Big
Island): For an affordable vacationwith plenty of hiking and oceanswimming among some of Hawaii’sgreatest natural beauty, come to theHamakua Coast. Steeped in myth,the majestic Waipio Valley once sup-ported a community of 40,000Hawaiians in a garden of Eden etchedby streams and waterfalls. Today, onlyabout 50 Hawaiians live in this sacredplace, which stretches from a black-sand beach to the cathedral-like cliffsthat mark the valley wall some 6miles away. Affordable B&Bs aboundin nearby Kukuihaele and the historicvillage of Honokaa, which also has agood number of reasonably pricedrestaurants. See chapter 6.
• Hilo (the Big Island): This quaint,misty, flower-filled city by the bayoffers bargains galore for the traveleron a tight budget. Comfy rooms startat just $55 for two, filling Hawaiian-style plate lunches go for only $7, andthere are plenty of bargains to be foundin the unique boutique shops down-town. Explore nearby waterfalls andtropical gardens, take in the historicsites, and lazily drift in the warm oceanwaters offshore. Spectacular HawaiiVolcanoes National Park—with itsstill-spewing volcano, miles of trailsthrough desolate lava deserts and ver-dant rainforests, and the bargain-base-ment admission fee of just $10 per car(good for an entire week!)—is less thanan hour’s drive away. See chapter 6.
• Huelo (Maui): This place is so specialand such a deal, we almost hate tospill the secret. On the road to Hana,on steep ocean cliffs out past the con-gestion of Kahului and the funky,bustling windsurfing capital of Paia,lies the quiet community of Huelo.This is the place to get away from it
all. Those staying at Huelo’s one-of-a-kind B&Bs wake early to catch thesunrise over the Pacific; they ventureout to waterfalls and swimming holesafter a leisurely breakfast; in winter,they scan for whales from vantagepoints along the cliffs. At sunset, theydine on simple meals they’ve pre-pared themselves as they watch thesky fade from blue to magenta. Huelois ideal for a quiet, simple vacationrich in nature, serenity, and afford-ability. See chapter 7.
• Molokai: Often called “the realHawaii,” Molokai is the kind of placewhere time moves more slowly. Rea-sonably priced condos and B&Bs dotthe island; you can even stay on theocean for just $80 a night. Restau-rants cater to the locals, for whomeating out is a treat, not a necessity, soprices are low. Entertainment ishomemade: early-morning swims,day hikes through the forest, sunsetpicnics on the beach. Best of all, astay on Molokai is a sojourn back toan era where people smile and waveto strangers, and nothing is moreimportant than stopping to appreci-ate natural beauty. See chapter 8.
• Kauai’s Coconut Coast: This once-royal land on the road to the NorthShore abounds with sparkling water-falls and lush rainforest as well as bar-gain-priced accommodations andrestaurants. With lots of activities tooffer—from water-skiing on theWailua River to offshore kayaking—this is heaven for active travelers. Atthe center of the action is Kapaa, arestored plantation town that hasn’tlost its funky charm. And the centrallocation makes this a great base forexploring the entire island—nothingis much more than an hour away. Seechapter 10.
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I F R O M $ 8 0 A D AY8
3 The Best Free or Cheap Experiences• Hitting the Beach: A beach is a
beach is a beach, right? Not inHawaii. With 132 islets, shoals, andreefs in the tropical Pacific and a gen-eral coastline of 750 miles, Hawaii hasbeaches of all different sizes, shapes,and colors, from white to black; thevariety on the six major islands isastonishing. You can go to a differentbeach every day for years and still notsee them all. And, whether you’relooking for a scene or want to getaway from it all, there’s one for every-one. See the “Beaches” sections in theindividual island chapters.
• Taking the Plunge: Don mask, fin,and snorkel and explore the magicalworld beneath the waves—exoticcorals and kaleidoscopic clouds oftropical fish; a sea turtle may evencome over to check you out. Can’tswim? Rent a life jacket that will keepyou afloat while you peer below thesurface. Whatever you do, don’t missthe opportunity to go under—if youcome to Hawaii and don’t see theunderwater world, you’re missing halfthe fun.
• Reliving the Tragedy of Pearl Har-bor (Oahu): After December 7,1941, the day that Japanese war-planes bombed Pearl Harbor, theUnited States could turn its back onWorld War II no longer. Standing onthe deck of the USS Arizona Memo-rial, which stands as an eternal tombfor the 1,177 sailors and Marinestrapped below when the battleshipsank in 9 minutes, is a moving expe-rience you’ll never forget. Admissionis absolutely free. See p. 184.
• Meeting Local Folks: Get out of theresort areas to learn about Hawaii andits people. Just smile and say “Owzit?”(“How is it?”). “It’s good,” is the usualresponse—and you’ll usually make a
new friend. Hawaii is remarkably cos-mopolitan—every ethnic group in theworld seems to be represented here—and it’s fascinating to discover thevarieties of food, culture, language,and customs.
• Touring an Entire Island for Just aCouple of Bucks (Oahu): A buck-fifty gets you around the island ofOahu on TheBus’s Circle Island line.From Ala Moana Center, no. 52 goesclockwise around the island, and no.55 goes counterclockwise. It takes 3to 41⁄2 hours to circumnavigate theisland, in which time you’ll see themajority of its scenic beauty. It’s thebest sightseeing deal in the islands,hands down. See chapter 5.
• Watching the Hula Being Per-formed: On Kauai, the CoconutMarket Place hosts free hula showsevery day at 5pm. Get there early toget a good seat for the hour-long per-formances of both kahiko (ancient)and auwana (modern) hula. The realshow-stoppers are the keiki (children)who perform. Don’t forget your cam-era! See chapter 10.
• Ogling the Day’s Catch (the BigIsland): Daily weigh-ins of big gamefish catch usually get underway at theHonokohau Harbor Fuel Dockbetween 4 and 5pm. It doesn’t cost athing to sit in the bleachers at theweigh-in area and watch as 1,000-pound Pacific blue marlin, fat yel-lowfin tunas in the 100- to 200-pound range, and a host of other eye-popping catches are strung up to thescale and weighed. See p. 293.
• Visiting the National Parks:Hawaii’s national parks are thenation’s most unusual. Maui’s Halea-kala National Park features one of thebiggest volcanic craters on earth; it’san otherworldly place that holds the
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secrets of past millennia. Sunrise hereis a mystical experience. The BigIsland’s Hawaii Volcanoes NationalPark, on the other hand, holds thekey to the future: At its heart is still-erupting Kilauea volcano, where youcan watch nature in action, sculptingthe island before your eyes. You canactually walk up to the flow andwatch it ooze along for an up-close-and-personal encounter, or you canstand at the shoreline and watch withawe as 2,000°F (1,093°C) moltenfire pours into the ocean, adding tothe island’s density. If you have tochoose just one park in Hawaii,choose Hawaii Volcanoes; it’s simply
spectacular. See “Seeing the Sights” inchapters 6 and 7.
• Hiking into Kalaupapa (Molokai):Even if you can’t afford to fly or ridea mule in, don’t pass up the opportu-nity to see this hauntingly beautifulpeninsula. It takes nothing more thana pair of hiking boots, a permit (avail-able at the trail head), and some grit.Hike down the 2.5-mile trail (with26 switchbacks, it can be a bit tricky)to Molokai’s legendary leper colony.The views are breathtaking: You’ll seethe world’s highest sea cliffs andwaterfalls plunging thousands of feetinto the ocean. See p. 479.
T H E B E S T A D V E N T U R E S F O R S P E C I A L S P L U R G E S 9
4 The Best Adventures for Special SplurgesBranch out while you’re in Hawaii; dosomething you wouldn’t normally do—after all, you’re on vacation. Following isa list of adventures we highly recom-mend. They may be pricey, but thesesplurges are worth every penny.
• Year-Round Whale-Watching withCaptain Dan (the Big Island; & 808/322-0028): During humpback sea-son—roughly December to April—when Hawaii’s most impressivevisitors return to the waters off theKona Coast, Capt. Dan McSweeneywill take you right to them. In theother months of the year, he’ll takeyou out to see Hawaii’s year-roundwhales: pilot, sperm, false killer,melon-headed, pygmy killer, andbeaked whales. A whale researcher formore than 20 years, Captain Dan hasno problem finding whales—in fact,he guarantees a sighting, or he’ll takeyou out again for free. He frequentlydrops an underwater microphone orvideo camera into the depths so youcan listen to whale songs or actuallysee what’s going on. See p. 289.
• Night Diving with Manta Rays (theBig Island): These harmless creatures
of the deep, with wingspans of 10 to14 feet, frequent the waters of Konalooking for a meal of microscopicplankton, which are attracted to theshore lights. Watching these gracefulfish spin, barrel roll, and pirouette inthe lights is an experience you’ll neverforget. See p. 292.
• Big-Game Fishing off the KonaCoast (the Big Island): Don’t pass upthe opportunity to try your luck in thebig-game fishing capital of the world.This is one of the few places where1,000-pound marlin are taken fromthe seas just about every month of theyear. Not looking to set a world record?Kona’s charter boat captains specializein conservation, and will be glad to“tag and release” any fish you angle, let-ting the fish go so someone else canhave the fun of fighting a big gamefish. See “Watersports” in chapter 6.
• Riding a Mule to Kalaupapa(Molokai): Even if you have only asingle day to spend on Molokai,spend it on a mule. The trek from“topside” Molokai to the KalaupapaNational Historic Park, FatherDamien’s world-famous leper colony,
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with Molokai Mule Ride (& 800/567-7550 or 808/567-6088) is aonce-in-a-lifetime adventure. Thecliffs are taller than 300-story sky-scrapers—but Buzzy Sproat’s mulesgo up and down the narrow 2.9-miletrail daily, rain or shine, without everlosing a rider or mount on any of the26 switchbacks. From 1,600 feet onthe nearly perpendicular ridge, thesure-footed mules step down themuddy trail, pausing often to calcu-late their next move. Each switchbackis numbered; by the time you get tonumber 4, you’ll catch your breath,put the mule on cruise control, andbegin to enjoy Hawaii’s most awe-some trail ride. See p. 484.
• Day Tripping to Lanai: If you’d liketo visit Lanai, but you only have a dayto spare, the best way to go is on Tril-ogy Excursions’ (& 800/874-2666or 808/661-4743) daylong sailing,snorkeling, swimming, and whale-watching adventure from Maui. Formore than 2 decades, the members ofthe Coon family have taken visitors
on personalized tours of their favoriteisland. They make the 6:30am depar-ture as painless as possible with theirhome-baked hot cinnamon rolls(mom’s own secret recipe) and just-brewed Kona coffee. After severalhours of snorkeling, swimming, andjust laying around in the sun, thecrew whips up a Hawaiian-style bar-becue, after which they take you on aguided van tour of the island. Theafternoon sail back can be relaxing orwet ’n’ wild, depending on the windgods. See p. 410.
• A Helicopter Ride over the Na PaliCoast (Kauai): Streaking low overrazor-thin cliffs, fluttering pastsparkling waterfalls and down intothe canyons and valleys of the fabledNa Pali Coast—there’s almost toomuch beauty to absorb as you fly overthis spectacular, surreal landscape. It’sthe best way to see the dazzlingbeauty of Kauai. See “Seeing theSights,” in chapter 10 for recom-mended outfitters.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I F R O M $ 8 0 A D AY10
5 The Best of Natural Hawaii• Volcanoes: The entire island chain
is made of volcanoes; don’t miss theopportunity to see one. On Oahu,the entire family can hike to the topof the ancient volcano, world-famous Diamond Head. At theother end of the spectrum is fire-breathing Kilauea at Hawaii Volca-noes National Park, on the BigIsland, where you can get an up-close-and-personal experience withthe red-hot lava ooze. On Maui,Haleakala National Park provides abird’s-eye view into a long-dormantvolcanic crater. See chapters 5, 6,and 7.
• Waterfalls: Rushing waterfalls thun-dering downward into sparkling
freshwater pools are some of Hawaii’smost beautiful natural wonders. Ifyou’re on the Big Island, stop byRainbow Falls, in Hilo, or the spec-tacular 442-foot Akaka Falls, justoutside the city. On Maui, the Roadto Hana offers numerous viewingopportunities; at the end of the drive,you’ll find Oheo Gulch (also knownas the Seven Sacred Pools), with someof the most dramatic and accessiblewaterfalls on the islands. Kauai isloaded with waterfalls, especiallyalong the North Shore and in theWailua area, where you’ll find 40-footOpaekaa Falls, probably the best-looking drive-up waterfall on Kauai.With scenic mountain peaks in the
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background and a restored Hawaiianvillage on the nearby river banks, theOpaekaa Falls are what the tourist-bureau folks call an eye-poppingphoto op. See “Seeing the Sights,” inchapters 6, 7, and 10.
• Gardens: The islands are redolentwith the sweet scent of flowers. OnOahu, amid the high-rises of down-town Honolulu, the leafy oasis ofFoster Botanical Garden showcases24 native Hawaiian trees and the laststand of several rare trees, includingan East African whose white flowersbloom only at night. On the BigIsland, Liliuokalani Gardens—thelargest formal Japanese garden thisside of Tokyo—resembles a postcardfrom Asia, with bonsai, carp ponds,pagodas, and even a moon gatebridge. At Maui’s Kula BotanicalGarden, you can take a leisurely self-guided stroll through more than 700native and exotic plants, includingorchids, proteas, and bromeliads. Onlush Kauai, do not miss the incrediblemagical Na Aina Kai Botanical Gar-dens, on some 240 acres, sprinkledwith some 70 life-size (some largerthan life) whimsical bronze statues,hidden off the beaten path of theNorth Shore. See “Seeing the Sights,”in chapters 5, 6, 7, and 10.
• Marine Life Conservation Areas:Nine underwater parks are spreadacross Hawaii, most notably WaikikiBeach and Hanauma Bay, on Oahu;the Big Island’s Kealakekua Bay;Molokini, just off the coast of Maui;
and Lanai’s Manele and Hulopoebays. Be sure to bring snorkel gear toat least one of these wonderful placesduring your vacation here. See “Water-sports,” in chapters 5, 6, 7, and 9.
• Garden of the Gods (Lanai): Out onLanai’s North Shore lies the ultimaterock garden: a rugged, barren, beauti-ful place full of rocks strewn by vol-canic forces and shaped by theelements into a variety of shapes andcolors—brilliant reds, oranges, ochers,and yellows. Scientists use phrases suchas “ongoing post-erosional event” or“plain and simple badlands” todescribe the desolate, windswept place.The ancient Hawaiians, however, con-sidered the Garden of the Gods to bean entirely supernatural phenomenon.Natural badlands or mystical garden?Take a four-wheel-drive trip out hereand decide for yourself. See “Seeing theSights,” in chapter 9.
• The Grand Canyon of the Pacific—Waimea Canyon (Kauai): This val-ley, known for its reddish lava beds,reminds everyone who sees it of Ari-zona’s Grand Canyon. Kauai’s versionis bursting with ever-changing color,just like its namesake, but it’ssmaller—only a mile wide, 3,567 feetdeep, and 12 miles long. All thisgrandeur was caused by a massiveearthquake that sent all the streamsflowing into a single river, which thencarved this picturesque canyon. Youcan stop by the road and look at it,hike down into it, or swoop throughit by helicopter. See p. 578.
T H E B E S T G O L F C O U R S E S W I T H R E A S O N A B L E G R E E N S F E E S 11
6 The Best Golf Courses with Reasonable Greens FeesBelieve it or not, there are golfing bar-gains to be had in Hawaii—not at theworld-famous resort or PGA courses, butat little-known local ones offering breath-taking views, challenging play, andaffordable greens fees.
• Kahuku Golf Course (Oahu; & 808/293-5842): We admit thatthis nine-hole budget course is a bitfunky: There are no facilities (excepta few pull carts that disappear withthe first handful of golfers), no club
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rentals, and no clubhouse. But golf-ing here is a great way to experiencethe tranquillity and natural beauty ofOahu’s North Shore. The views arefantastic, especially from holes 3, 4,7, and 8, which are right on theocean. Duffers will love the ease ofthis recreational course. The cost forthis experience? Just $8 on weekdaysand $10 on weekends for 9 holes. Seep. 173.
• Hamakua Country Club (the BigIsland; & 808/775-7244): This par-33, 2,520-yard course was built inthe 1920s on a very steep hill over-looking the ocean. With really onlyenough room for about 41⁄2 holes,architect Frank Anderson somehowmanaged to squeeze in 9 by criss-crossing holes across the fairway. Thecost to play this course—open week-days to nonmembers—is just $15.See p. 299.
• Pukalani Country Club (Maui; & 808/572-1314): This cool par-72,6,962-yard course at 1,100 feet eleva-tion is a fun one to play. High-handi-cap golfers will love it, and moreexperienced players can make it morechallenging by playing from the backtee. Greens fees, including carts, areonly $55 for 18 holes, even cheaperafter 11am. See p. 424.
• Ironwood Hills Golf Course(Molokai; & 808/567-6000): Oneof the oldest golf courses in the state,Ironwood Hills is a real find. Built in
1929 by the Del Monte Plantationfor its executives, this unusual coursedelights with its rich foliage, openfairways, and spectacular views of therest of the island. Greens fees rangefrom $15 to $20, depending on howmany holes you play. See p. 480.
• Cavendish Golf Course (Lanai): Toplay this 9-hole course next to theLodge at Koele in Lanai City, justshow up and put a donation ($5–$10would be nice) into the little woodenbox next to the first tee. The par-30,3,071-yard course was built by theDole plantation in 1947 for itsemployees. The greens are a bitbumpy—nothing will roll straighthere—but the views of Lanai aregreat. See p. 504.
• Kukuiolono Golf Course (Kauai; & 808/332-9151): This fun 9-holecourse has spectacular views ofKauai’s entire south coast. You can’tbeat the price: $7 for the day, no mat-ter how many holes you play—youcan even play the course twice, if youlike. This course is well maintainedand relatively straightforward, withfew fairway hazards, but there areplenty of trees in this wooded area tokeep you on your game. When youget to the second tee box, check outthe coconut tree dotted with yellow,pink, orange, and white golf ballsthat have been driven into the bark.Don’t laugh—your next shot mightadd to the decor! See p. 571.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F H A W A I I F R O M $ 8 0 A D AY12
7 The Best Cultural ExperiencesHawaii isn’t just any other beach destina-tion. It has a wonderfully rich, ancienthistory and culture that’s worth getting toknow while you’re in the islands.
• Watching the Ancient HawaiianSport of Canoe Paddling (Oahu):From February to September, onweekday evenings and weekend days,hundreds of canoe paddlers gather at
Ala Wai Canal and practice theHawaiian sport of canoe paddling.Find a comfortable spot at Ala WaiPark, next to the canal, and watch thisancient sport come to life. See p. 174.
• Attending a Hawaiian-LanguageChurch Service (Oahu): KawaiahaoChurch (& 808/522-1333) is theWestminster Abbey of Hawaii; the
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vestibule is lined with portraits of theHawaiian monarchy, many of whomwere crowned in this very building.The coral church is a perfect settingto experience an all-Hawaiian service,held every Sunday at 10:30am, com-plete with Hawaiian song. Admissionis free; let your conscience be yourguide as to a donation. See p. 174.
• Buying a Lei in Chinatown (Oahu):There’s actually a host of culturalsights and experiences to be had inHonolulu’s Chinatown. Wanderthrough this several-square-block areawith its jumble of exotic shops offer-ing herbs, Chinese groceries, andacupuncture services. Before youleave, be sure to check out the lei sell-ers on Maunakea Street (near N.Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leisgo for as little as $3.50. See chapter 5.
• Visiting Ancient Hawaii’s MostSacred Temple (the Big Island): Onthe Kohala Coast, where King Kame-hameha the Great was born, standsHawaii’s oldest, largest, and mostsacred religious site—the 1,500-year-old Mookini Heiau, used by kings topray and offer human sacrifices. Themassive three-story stone temple,dedicated to Ku, the Hawaiian god ofwar, was erected in A.D. 480. Eachstone is said to have been passedhand-to-hand from Pololu Valley, 14miles away, by 18,000 men whoworked from sunset to sunrise. Go inlate afternoon when the setting sunstrikes the lava rock walls and createsa primal mood. See p. 310.
• Hunting for Petroglyphs (the BigIsland): Archaeologists are still unsurewho made these ancient rock carv-ings—the majority of which arefound in the 233-acre Puako Petro-glyph Archaeological District, nearMauna Lani Resort, on the KohalaCoast—or why. The best time tohunt for intricate depictions of
ancient life is either early in themorning or late afternoon, when theangle of the sun lets you see the formsclearly. See “Seeing the Sights” inchapter 6.
• Exploring Puuhonua O HonaunauNational Historic Park (the BigIsland): This sacred site on the SouthKona Coast was once a place ofrefuge and a revered place of rejuve-nation. Today, you can walk the sameconsecrated grounds where priestsonce conducted holy ceremonies andglimpse the ancient way of life in pre-contact Hawaii in the re-created 180-acre village. See p. 305.
• Visiting the Most Hawaiian Isle: Atime capsule of 19th-century Hawaii,Molokai allows visitors to experiencereal Hawaiian life in its most unsul-lied form. The island’s people havewoven the cultural values of ancienttimes into modern life. In addition tothis rich community, you’ll find themagnificent natural wonders it socherishes: Hawaii’s highest waterfalland greatest collection of fish ponds;the world’s tallest sea cliffs; plus sanddunes, coral reefs, rainforests, andempty, gloriously empty, beaches—pretty much the same Molokai ofgenerations ago. See chapter 8.
• Watching Salt Being Made (Kauai):At Salt Pond Beach Park, Hawaiianfamilies have practiced the ancient artof salt making for generations. Dur-ing the summer, families—from thelittlest keiki to eldest kupuna—worktogether in the ponds, evaporate thesalt water, rake up the salt, and bagthe Hawaiian salt, which is used incooking and medicine. See p. 553.
• Discovering the Legendary LittlePeople (Kauai): According to ancientHawaiian legend, among Kauai’s ear-liest settlers were the Menehune, arace of small people who worked atnight to accomplish magnificent
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feats. The Menehune Fish Pond—which at one time extended 25miles—is said to have been built injust one night, with two rows ofthousands of Menehune passingstones hand to hand. The Menehunewere promised that no one would
watch them work, but one persondid; when they discovered the spy,they stopped working immediately,leaving two gaps in the wall. Kayakerscan paddle up Huleia Stream to see itup close. See p. 577.
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8 The Best Affordable Accommodations• Royal Grove Hotel (Oahu; & 808/
923-7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com):This small, family-owned hotel, withplenty of old-fashioned aloha, has thebargain of Waikiki. For $45 (aboutthe same price a couple would pay tostay in a private room at the hostel inWaikiki), you get a clean room in theolder Mauka Wing, with a doublebed or two twins, plus a kitchenettewith refrigerator and stove. And it’sonly a 3-minute walk to the beach.See p. 119.
• Backpackers Vacation Inn (Oahu;& 808/638-7838; www.backpackers-hawaii.com): If your dream ofHawaii is staying on the North Shoreof Oahu where monstrous waves rollin during the winter, this multi-accommodation property is for you.It’s not just for backpackers (althoughthey do have dorm beds starting at$20 and private rooms for $66). ThisNorth Shore property has oceanfrontstudios, which sleep four, starting at$96, and other oceanview homes atbudget prices. See p. 129.
• Kona Islander Inn (Big Island; & 800/622-5348; www.konahawaii.com): This is the most affordablecondo in Kailua-Kona with studioapartments beginning at $80 anight. These plantation-style, three-story buildings are surrounded bylush, palm-tree–lined gardens withtorchlit pathways that make it hardto believe you’re smack-dab in themiddle of downtown. The central
location—across the street from thehistoric Kona Inn Shops—is con-venient but can be noisy; but atthese rates, you can afford earplugs.See p. 243.
• Kona Tiki Hotel (the Big Island; & 808/329-1425): Right on theocean, away from the hustle and bus-tle of downtown Kailua-Kona, is oneof the hottest budget deals in Hawaii.Although it’s called a hotel, this small,family-run operation is more like alarge bed-and-breakfast, with a conti-nental breakfast buffet served by thepool every morning. The price? Just$61 to $75 for a double, or $84 for aroom with kitchenette. See p. 244.
• Makai Inn (Maui; & 808/662-3200; www.makaiinn.net) This smallapartment complex located right onthe water (okay, no white-sand beachout front, but what do you want atthese eye-popping prices that start at$75 a room). The closest white-sandbeach is just a 10-minute stroll, andthe center of Lahaina town is a 20-minute walk away. The units aresmall (400 sq. ft.) but clean and filledwith everything you could possibleneed for your vacation: full kitchens,views of the ocean (in most units),separate bedrooms, and a quietneighborhood. See p. 359.
• Pineapple Inn Maui (Maui; & 877-212-MAUI, ext. 6284; www.pineappleinnmaui.com): This charming inn(only four rooms, plus a darling two-bedroom cottage) is not only an
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exquisite find, but the prices, at just$99, are terrific. Located in the resi-dential area, with panoramic oceanviews, this two-story inn is expertlylandscaped in tropical flowers andplants with a lily pond in the frontand a giant saltwater pool and Jacuzzioverlooking the ocean. Each of thesoundproof rooms is professionallydecorated with a small kitchenette(fridge, coffeemaker, toaster, andmicrowave), comfy bed, free wirelessInternet access, TV/VCR, and anincredible view off your own privatelanai. See p. 367.
• Kamalo Plantation Bed-and-Break-fast (Molokai; & 808/558-8236;www.molokai.com/kamalo): This lush5-acre spread includes an ancientheiau ruin in the front yard, plus leafytropical gardens and a working fruitorchard. The plantation-style cottageis tucked under flowering trees andsurrounded by swaying palms andtropical foliage. It has its own lanai, abig living room with a queen sofabed, and a separate bedroom with aking bed, so it can sleep four comfortably. The kitchen is fullyequipped (it even has spices), andthere’s a barbecue outside. A breakfastof fruit and freshly baked bread isserved every morning, all for just $85for a double. See p. 468.
• Kauai Country Inn (Kauai; & 808/821-0207; www.kauaicountryinn.com): Run to the phone right nowand book this place! Hard to believethat nestled in the rolling hills behindKapaa, this old-fashioned countryinn exists. Starting at $95, each of thefour suites is uniquely decorated inHawaiian art deco with a touch ofhumor—complete with hardwoodfloors, private baths, kitchen or kitch-enette, your own computer withhigh-speed connection, and lots oflittle amenities. Everything is topdrawer, from the furniture to theSub-Zero refrigerator. See p. 530.
• Victoria Place (Kauai; & 808/332-9300; www.hshawaii.com/kvp/victoria): Hostess Edee Seymour lav-ishes her guests with attention andaloha in her spacious, skylit, U-shaped house that wraps around theswimming pool and garden ofbougainvillea, hibiscus, gardenia, andginger. There’s also a secluded studioapartment (“Victoria’s Other Secret”)down a private path. Edee’s breakfastsare truly a big deal: at least five dif-ferent tropical fruits, followed bysomething from the oven, such ashomemade bread, scones, ormuffins—all for just $90. See p. 522.
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9 The Best Affordable Family Accommodations• Aloha Punawai (Oahu; & 808/923-
5211; www.alternative-hawaii.com/alohapunawai): Here’s one of Waiki-ki’s best-kept secrets: a low-profile,family-operated (since 1959) apart-ment hotel just 2 blocks from thebeach and within walking distance ofmost Waikiki attractions. The AlohaPunawai offers some of the lowestprices in Waikiki ($95 for studios and$105 for a one-bedroom); if you staya week, prices drop even more. And
the location is great, just across thestreet from Fort DeRussy Park and 2blocks to Grey’s Beach—the samegreat beach facing the luxury Haleku-lani and Sheraton Waikiki hotels. Seep. 109.
• Schrader’s Windward MarineResort (Oahu; & 800/735-5071 or808/239-5711; www.hawaiiscene.com/schrader): Nestled in a tranquil,tropical setting on Kaneohe Bay, onlya 30-minute drive from Waikiki, this
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complex is made up of older cottage-style motels and a collection of olderhomes with budget prices starting at$72 for a one-bedroom, $127 for atwo-bedroom, $226 for a three-bed-room, and $446 for a four-bedroom.See p. 127.
• Volcano Guest House (Big Island;& 808/967-7775; www.volcanoguesthouse.com): If you’re planningto visit Hawaii Volcanoes NationalPark, here’s the place to bring thefamily. A mother herself, BonnieGooddell has completely child-proofed her house and installed a bas-ketball hoop in the driveway; hertruckload of toys will keep the kidshappy for hours. You can make your-self right at home in Bonnie’s free-standing two-story guest cottage,which comes outfitted with every-thing, even down to extra wool socksfor cold nights. And at $85 for twoplus $15 for each of the kids, it’s easyon the family budget. See p. 260.
• The Spinnaker (Maui; & 808/662-3200; www.makaiinn.net): This resi-dential complex on a side street inLahaina offers extremely affordableone- and two-bedroom budget apart-ments offered only by the week, butat prices that families can afford($500 a week for the one-bedroom or$600 a week for the two-bedroom).All units have full kitchens, phones,television, and all the comforts ofhome. There is a pool in the complexand a whirlpool and barbecue area.There’s no maid service, but at theseprices you can clean up on your own.See p. 359.
• Wailana Kai (Maui; & 800/541-3060; www.bellomaui.com): BelloRealty, which has searched out thebest deals in Kihei, has added this ren-ovated, two-story, 10-unit one- and
two-bedroom apartments to its col-lection. With one-bedroom unitsstarting at $85, this is a deal that willnot last long. It’s located at the end ofa cul-de-sac street and just a 1-minutewalk to the beach. All units have fullkitchens, concrete walls (sound-proof!), and the second floor hasocean views. Also on property are asmall pool, coin-operated laundry,and a barbecue area. See p. 369.
• Moanui Beach House (Molokai; & 808/558-8236; www.molokai.com/kamalo): If you’re looking for aquiet, remote beach house, this is it: atwo-bedroom beach house, rightacross the street from a secludedwhite-sand cove beach. The A-framehas a shaded lanai facing the ocean, ascreened-in lanai on the side of thehouse, a full kitchen, and an oceanview that’s worth the price alone,which is just $140. See p. 468.
• Nihi Kai Villas, Poipu CraterResort, and Waikomo Stream Villas(Kauai; & 800/325-5701; www.grantham-resorts.com). Here’s a dealfor you: These three wonderful Poipuproperties with large, perfectly won-derful one- and two-bedroom condosa stone’s throw from the beach—from just $89 a night! What you’renot getting is new carpet, new fur-niture, new drapes, and a primelocation on the sands. What you aregetting is a clean, well-located, well-cared for unit at a bargain price.The sofa bed in the living roomallows even the one-bedroom con-dos to sleep four comfortably. Suchon-site amenities as swimmingpools, tennis and paddle courts, andbarbecue and picnic areas makethese value properties an even betterbargain. See p. 523 and p. 524.
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10 The Best Hawaii Websites• Big Island Home Page (www.big
island.com): Though not the mostbeautifully designed site, it doesinclude lots of listings for dining,lodging, and activities, most withlinks to more information andimages.
• Hawaii Visitors & ConventionBureau (www.gohawaii.com): Thissite provides an excellent, all-aroundguide to activities, tours, lodging, andevents, plus a huge section on wed-dings and honeymoons. But keep inmind that only members of theHVCB are listed.
• Internet Hawaii Radio (www.hotspots.hawaii.com): A great way toget into the mood, this eclectic sitefeatures great Hawaiian music, withopportunities to order a CD or cas-sette. You can also purchase arespectable assortment of Hawaiianhistorical and cultural books.
• Kauai: Island of Discovery (www.kauai-hawaii.com): Extensive listingscover activities, events, recreation,attractions, beaches, and much more.The Vacation Directory includes infor-mation on golf, fishing, and islandtours; some listings include e-mailaddresses and links to websites. You’llalso find a clickable map of the islandwith listings organized by region.
• Maui Island Currents (www.islandcurrents.com): Specializing in artsand culture, Island Currents gives the
most detailed lowdown on currentexhibitions and performance art.Gallery listings are organized bytown, while in-depth articles high-light local artists. Consult restaurantreviews from the Maui News “Best ofMaui” poll for suggestions and prices.
• Maui Net (www.maui.net): Theclients of this Internet serviceprovider are featured in this extensivedirectory of links to accommoda-tions, activities, and shopping. TheActivity Desk has links to outfitters’sites, where you can learn more andset up excursions before you arrive.
• Molokai: The Most HawaiianIsland (www.molokai-hawaii.com):This is a complete site for activities,events, nightlife, accommodations,and family vacations. Enjoy the land-scape by viewing a virtual photo tour,get driving times between variouspoints, and learn about local history.
• Visit Lanai (www.visitlanai.net):Everything you wanted to knowabout the island of Lanai from activi-ties and accommodations to maps, acalendar of events, even romance.
• Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com):This site provides an extensive guideto activities, dining, lodging, parks,shopping, and more from the Oahuchapter of the Hawaii Visitors andConvention Bureau.
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