the best of costa rica - john wiley &...

The Best of Costa Rica

Just the name Costa Rica conjures up images of dense rainforest, wild jungle water-falls, and deserted tropical beaches. Costa Rica is perennially one of the hottest desti-nations in Latin America. The country is a major vacation and adventure-traveldestination, with over a million visitors each year. Despite the boom in vacationers,Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity, where you canstill feel far from the maddening crowds. The country boasts a wealth of unsulliedbeaches that stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven’t attracted hordes of tourists,jungle rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud and rainforests withample opportunities for bird-watching and hiking. In addition to the country’s trade-mark eco- and adventure tourism offerings, recent years have seen the opening of ahandful of large luxury resorts and golf courses, with more on the way.

I’ve lived in Costa Rica for over 15 years, and my “best of” experiences keep oncoming. In this chapter I’ve selected the very best of what this unique country has tooffer. Most of these places and experiences are covered in greater detail elsewhere inthe book; this chapter is merely meant to give you an overview of the highlights soyou can start planning your own adventure.

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1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica• Rincón de la Vieja National Park

(northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste):This is an area of rugged beauty andhigh volcanic activity. The Rincón dela Vieja Volcano rises to 1,848m(6,061 ft.), but the thermal activity isspread out along its flanks, wherenumerous geysers, vents, and fuma-roles let off its heat and steam. This isa great place to hire a guide and ahorse for a day of rugged exploration.There are waterfalls and mud baths,hot springs, and cool jungle swim-ming holes. You’ll pass through pas-tureland, scrub savanna, and moistsecondary forest; the bird-watching isexcellent. See p. 155.

• The Río Sarapiquí Region (north ofSan José between Guanacaste in thewest and the Caribbean coast in the

east): This is a prime place for anecolodge experience. Protected tropi-cal forests climb from the Caribbeancoastal lowlands up into the centralmountain, affording you a glimpse ofa plethora of life zones and ecosys-tems. Braulio Carrillo National Parkborders several other private reserveshere, and there’s a variety of ecolodgesto suit any budget. See “Puerto Viejode Sarapiquí” in chapter 7.

• Arenal Volcano/Tabacón HotSprings (near La Fortuna, northwestof San José): When the skies are clearand the lava is flowing, Arenal Vol-cano provides a thrilling light showaccompanied by an earthshakingrumble that defies description. Youcan even see the show while soakingin a natural hot spring and having a

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drink at the swim-up bar at TabacónHot Springs Resort & Spa (& 519-1900; www.tabacon.com). If therushing torrent of volcano-heatedspring water isn’t therapeutic enough,you can get a massage here at anincredibly inexpensive price. See“Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna” inchapter 7.

• Monteverde Biological Cloud For-est Reserve (in the mountains north-west of San José): There’s somethingboth eerie and majestic about walkingaround in the early-morning mistwith the sound of bird calls all aroundand the towering trees hung heavy inbroad bromeliads, flowering orchids,and hanging moss and vines. Thereserve itself has a well-maintainednetwork of trails, and the communityis truly involved in conservation. Notonly that, but in and around Mon-teverde and Santa Elena, you’ll find awhole slew of related activities andattractions, including canopy toursthat allow you to swing from treetopto treetop while hanging from askinny cable. See p. 246.

• Manuel Antonio (near Quepos onthe central Pacific coast): There’s areason this place is so popular andrenowned: monkeys! The nationalpark here is full of them, even theendangered squirrel monkeys. Butthere’s plenty to see and do outsidethe park as well. The road leading intoManuel Antonio provides numerouslookouts that consistently producepostcard-perfect snapshots of steepjungle hills meeting the sea. Unin-habited islands lie just off the coast,

and the beaches here are perfect cres-cents of soft, white sand. See “ManuelAntonio National Park” in chapter 8.

• Osa Peninsula (in southern CostaRica): This is Costa Rica’s mostremote and biologically rich region.Corcovado National Park, thelargest remaining patch of virgin low-land tropical rainforest in CentralAmerica, takes up much of the OsaPeninsula. Jaguars, crocodiles, andscarlet macaws all call this placehome. Whether you stay in a luxurynature lodge in Drake Bay or outsideof Puerto Jiménez, or camp in thepark itself, you will be surrounded bysome of the most lush and mostintense jungle this country has tooffer. See chapter 9.

• Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals(on the Caribbean coast, north ofLimón): Tortuguero Village is a smallcollection of rustic wooden shacks ona narrow spit of land between theCaribbean Sea and a dense maze ofjungle canals. It’s been called CostaRica’s Venice, but it actually has morein common with the South AmericanAmazon. As you explore the narrowcanals here, you’ll see a wide varietyof herons and other water birds, threetypes of monkeys, three-toed sloths,and caiman. If you come betweenJune and October, you might betreated to the awe-inspiring spectacleof a green turtle nesting—the smallstretch of Tortuguero beach is the lastremaining major nesting site of thisendangered animal. See “TortugueroNational Park” in chapter 10.

T H E B E S T B E A C H E S 5

2 The Best BeachesWith more than 1,200km (750 miles) ofshoreline on its Pacific and Caribbeancoasts, Costa Rica offers beachgoers anembarrassment of riches.

• Santa Rosa National Park: If youreally want to get away from it all, thebeaches here in the northwest cornerof Costa Rica are a good bet. You’ll

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Río

Isla del Coco(Coco Island)

THE BEST OF NATURAL COSTA RICAArenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot Springs 5Braulio Carrillo National Park 19Manuel Antonio National Park 26Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve 6Osa Peninsula & Corcovado National Park 27Rincón de la Vieja National Park 2The Río Sarapiquí Region 15Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals 16

THE BEST BEACHESThe Beaches Around Playa Sámara 10Malpais 12Manuel Antonio 26Playa Montezuma 13Playa Tamarindo 9Punta Uva & Manzanillo 22Santa Rosa National Park 1

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THE BEST ADVENTURESBattling a Billfish off the Pacific Coast 25Diving off Isla del Coco 11Hiking Mount Chirripó 23Kayaking Around Golfo Dulce 28Rafting the Upper Reventazón River 17Surfing & Four-Wheeling Guanacaste 8Surfing Pavones 29Windsurfing Lake Arenal 4

THE BEST BIRD-WATCHINGAviarios del Caribe/Cahuita National Park 21Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge 3Carara National Park 14Cerro de la Muerte 24La Selva Biological Station 18Parque del Este 20Río Tempisque Basin 7Wilson Botanical Gardens 30

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The Best of Costa Rica

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have to four-wheel-drive or hike13km (8 miles) from the centralranger station to reach the beach.And once you get there, you’ll findonly the most basic of camping facil-ities: outhouse latrines and cold-water showers. But you will probablyhave the place almost to yourself. Infact, the only time it gets crowded isin October, when thousands of oliveridley sea turtles nest in one of theiryearly arribadas (arrivals). See p. 161.

• Playa Tamarindo: Although devel-opment here has given the town acrowded, chintzy and chaotic feel,Tamarindo is still hanging on to itsplace on this list. Tamarindo hasample lodgings to suit every budget,as well as excellent restaurants atalmost every turn. The beach here islong and broad, with sections calmenough for swimmers and others justright for surfers. Located about mid-way along the beaches of Guanacasteprovince, Tamarindo makes a goodbase for exploring other nearbystretches of sand. There are plenty ofsurfers here, as well as one of theliveliest nightlife scenes on this coast.See “Playa Tamarindo & PlayaGrande” in chapter 6.

• The Beaches Around Playa Sámara:Playa Sámara itself is nice enough, butif you venture just slightly fartherafield, you’ll find some of the nicestand least developed beaches along theentire Guanacaste coast. Playa Car-rillo is a long, almost always desertedcrescent of palm-backed white sandlocated just south of Sámara, whilePlaya Barrigona and Playa BuenaVista are two hidden gems tuckeddown a couple of dirt roads to thenorth. See “Playa Sámara” in chapter 6.

• Playa Montezuma: This tiny beachtown at the southern tip of theNicoya Peninsula has weathered fameand infamy, and yet retains a funky

sense of individuality. European back-packers, vegetarian yoga enthusiasts,and UFO seekers choose Montezuma’sbeach over any other in Costa Rica.The waterfalls are what set it apartfrom the competition, but the beachstretches for miles, with plenty of iso-lated spots to plop down your towel ormat. Nearby are the Cabo Blanco andCurú wildlife preserves. See “PlayaMontezuma” in chapter 6.

• Malpaís: While the secret is certainlyout, there’s still some time to visitCosta Rica’s hot spot before thethrongs arrive. With just a smatteringof luxury lodges, surf camps, andsimple cabinas, Malpaís is the place tocome if you’re looking for miles ofdeserted beaches and great surf. Ifyou find Malpaís is too crowded,head farther on down the road toSanta Teresa, Playa Hermosa, andManzanillo. See “Malpaís/Santa Teresa”in chapter 6.

• Manuel Antonio: The first beachdestination to become popular inCosta Rica, Manuel Antonio retainsits charms despite burgeoning crowdsand mushrooming hotels. Thebeaches inside the park are idyllic, andthe views from the hills approachingthe park are enchanting. This is one ofthe few remaining habitats for theendangered squirrel monkey. Roomswith views tend to be a bit expensive,but many a satisfied guest will tell youthey’re worth it. See “Manuel AntonioNational Park” in chapter 8.

• Punta Uva & Manzanillo: BelowPuerto Viejo the beaches of CostaRica’s eastern coast take on trueCaribbean splendor, with turquoisewaters, coral reefs, and palm-linedstretches of nearly deserted white-sand beach. Punta Uva and Man-zanillo are the two most sparklinggems of this coastline. Tall coconutpalms line the shore, providing shady


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respite for those who like to spend afull day on the sand, and the water isusually quite calm and good for

swimming. See “Puerto Viejo” inchapter 10.

T H E B E S T A D V E N T U R E S 9

3 The Best Adventures• Mountain-Biking the Back Roads

of Costa Rica: The lack of infra-structure and paved roads that mostfolks bemoan is a huge boon formountain bikers. There are endlessback roads and cattle paths toexplore. Tours of differing lengthsand all difficulty levels are available.Contact Coast to Coast Adventures(& 280-8054; www.ctocadventures.com). See p. 74.

• Swinging Through the Treetops ona Canopy Tour: This unique adven-ture is becoming quite the rage. Inmost cases, after a strenuous climbusing ascenders, you strap on a har-ness and zip from treetop to treetopwhile dangling from a cable. Thereare canopy tours all around CostaRica. Check the various destinationchapters to find a canopy tour opera-tion near you.

• Rafting the Upper ReventazónRiver (near Turrialba): The Class VGuayabo section of this popular riveris serious white water. Only experi-enced and gutsy river runners needapply. If you’re not quite up to that,try a 2-day Pacuare River trip whichpasses through primary and second-ary forests and a beautiful steepgorge. Plans to build a dam here havethankfully been rejected for now.Ríos Tropicales (& 233-6455; www.riostropicales.com) can arrange eitherof these tours. See p. 84.

• Surfing & Four-Wheeling Gua-nacaste Province: This northwesternprovince has dozens of respectablebeach and reef breaks, from Witch’sRock at Playa Naranjo near theNicaraguan border to Playa Nosara

more than 100km (62 miles) away. Inaddition to these two prime spots, trya turn at Playa Grande, Punta Lan-gosta, and playas Negra, Avellanas,and Junquillal. Or find your ownsecret spot. Rent a four-by-four witha roof rack, pile on the boards, andexplore. See chapter 6.

• Battling a Billfish off the PacificCoast: Billfish are plentiful all alongCosta Rica’s Pacific coast, and boatsoperate from Playa del Coco to PlayaZancudo. Costa Rican anglers holdworld records for both blue marlinand Pacific sailfish. Go to Quepos(just outside Manuel Antonio) for thebest après-fish scene, or head down toDrake Bay, the Osa Peninsula, orGolfo Dulce if you want some isola-tion. Costa Rica Outdoors (& 800/308-3394 in the U.S. or 282-6743 inCosta Rica; www.costaricaoutdoors.com) can help you find a good char-ter skipper or specialized fishinglodge. See chapters 6, 8, and 9.

• Trying the new adventure sport ofCanyoning: While far from stan-dardized, canyoning usually involveshiking along and through the riversand creeks of steep mountain canyons,with periodic breaks to rappel downthe face of a waterfall, jump off a rockinto a jungle pool, or float down asmall rapid. Pure Trek Canyoning(& 479-9940; www.puretrekcostarica.com), in La Fortuna and Every-day Adventures (& 353-8619; www.everydaycostarica.com), outside ofPuerto Jiménez, are two of the primeoperators in this field. See chapters 7and 9.

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• Windsurfing Lake Arenal: Withsteady gale-force winds and stunningscenery, the northern end of LakeArenal has become a major interna-tional windsurfing hot spot.

• Diving off the Shores of Isla delCoco (off the Pacific coast): Leg-endary among treasure seekers, piratebuffs, and scuba divers, this smallisland is consistently rated one of the10 best dive sites in the world. A pro-tected national park, Isla del Coco issurrounded by clear Pacific waters,and its reefs are teeming with life(divers regularly encounter largeschools of hammerhead sharks, curi-ous manta rays, and docile whalesharks). Because the island is soremote and has no overnight facilitiesfor visitors, the most popular way tovisit is on 10-day excursions on a live-aboard boat, where guests live, eat,and sleep onboard—with nights spentanchored in the harbor. See p. 260.

• Hiking Mount Chirripó (near SanIsidro de El General on the centralPacific coast): The highest mountainin Costa Rica, Mount Chirripó is oneof the few places in the world where(on a clear day) you can see both theCaribbean Sea and the Pacific Oceanat the same time. Hiking to Chirripó’s3,724m (12,215-ft.) summit willtake you through a number of dis-tinct bioregions, ranging from low-land pastures and a cloud forest to ahigh-altitude páramo, a tundralike

landscape with stunted trees andmorning frosts. See “San Isidro de ElGeneral: A Base for ExploringChirripó National Park” in chapter 8.

• Kayaking Around the Golfo Dulce:Slipping through the waters of theGolfo Dulce by kayak gets you inti-mately in touch with the raw beautyof this underdeveloped region. Spendseveral days poking around in man-grove swamps, fishing in estuaries,and watching dolphins frolic in thebay. Escondido Trex (& 735-5210;www.escondidotrex.com) providesmultiday custom kayaking trips outof Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Penin-sula. See “Puerto Jiménez: Gateway toCorcovado National Park” in chapter 9.

• Surfing Pavones (on the southernPacific coast): Just 13km (8 miles)from the Panamanian border at thesouthern reaches of Costa Rica’sPacific coast, Pavones is reputed tohave one of the longest rideable wavesin the world. When this left-pointbreak is working, surfers enjoy ridesof almost a mile in length. Muchmore can be said about this experi-ence, but if you’re a surfer, you’veheard it all before. Contact CasaSiempre Domingo (& 820-4709;www.casa-domingo.com), the mostcomfortable hotel in town, for cur-rent wave reports and other localinformation. See “Playa Pavones: ASurfer’s Mecca” in chapter 9.


4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks• Lankester Gardens: If you want a

really pleasant but not overly chal-lenging day hike, consider a walkamong the hundreds of distinctspecies of flora on display here.Lankester Gardens (& 552-3247) isjust 27km (17 miles) from San Joséand makes a wonderful day’s expedi-tion. The trails meander from areas of

well-tended open garden to shadynatural forest. See p. 129.

• Rincón de la Vieja National Park:This park has a number of wonderfultrails through a variety of ecosystemsand natural wonders. My favoritehike is down to the Blue Lake andCangrejo Falls. It’s 5.1km (31⁄4 miles)each way, and you’ll want to spend

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some time at the base of this amazinglake; plan on spending at least 5hours on the outing, and bring alonglunch and plenty of water. You canalso hike up to two craters and acrater lake here, and there’s the LasPailas loop for those seeking a lessstrenuous hike. This remote volcanicnational park is located about anhour north of Liberia (it’s only25km/16 miles, but the road is quiterough), or about 5 hours from SanJosé. See p. 155.

• La Selva Biological Station: Thiscombination research facility and rus-tic nature lodge has an extensive andwell-marked network of trails. You’llhave to reserve in advance (& 766-6565) and take the guided tour if youaren’t a guest at the lodge. But thehikes are led by very informed natu-ralists, so you might not mind thecompany. The Biological Station islocated north-northeast on theCaribbean slope of Costa Rica’s cen-tral mountain range. It’ll take youabout 11⁄2 hours to drive from SanJosé via the Guápiles Highway. See p. 223.

• Arenal National Park & Environs:There’s great hiking all around thisarea. The national park itself has sev-eral excellent trails that visit a varietyof ecosystems, including rainforest,secondary forest, savanna, and, myfavorite, old lava flows. Most of themare on the relatively flat flanks of thevolcano, so there’s not too muchclimbing involved. There’s also greathiking on the trails at the ArenalObservatory Lodge, and the traildown to the base of the La FortunaWaterfall is a fun scramble. It’s abouta 31⁄2-hour drive from San José to LaFortuna and Arenal National Park.See “Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna”in chapter 7.

• Monteverde Biological Cloud For-est Reserve: In the morning rush ofhigh season, when groups and toursline up to enter the reserve, you’dthink the sign said CROWD FOREST.Still, the guides here are some of themost professional and knowledgeablein the country. Take a tour in themorning to familiarize yourself withthe forest, and then spend the latemorning or afternoon (your entranceticket is good for the whole day)exploring the reserve. Once you getoff the main thoroughfares, Mon-teverde reveals its rich mysteries withstunning regularity. Walk throughthe gray mist and look up at thedense tangle of epiphytes and vines.The only noises you’ll hear are therustlings of birds or monkeys and theoccasional distant rumble of ArenalVolcano. The trails are well markedand regularly tended. It’s about 31⁄2hours by bus or car to Monteverdefrom San José. See p. 246.

• Corcovado National Park: Thislarge swath of dense lowland rainfor-est is home to Costa Rica’s second-largest population of scarlet macaws.The park has a well-designed networkof trails, ranger stations, and campingfacilities. Most of the lodges in DrakeBay and Puerto Jiménez offer dayhikes through the park, but if youreally want to experience it, youshould hike in and stay at one ormore of the campgrounds. This isstrenuous hiking, and you will haveto pack in some gear and food, butthe reward is some of Costa Rica’smost spectacular and unspoiledscenery. Because strict limits areplaced on the number of visitorsallowed into the park, you’ll alwaysbe far from the crowds. See “PuertoJiménez: Gateway to CorcovadoNational Park” in chapter 9.

T H E B E S T D AY H I K E S & N AT U R E W A L K S 11

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• Cahuita National Park: The trailshere are flat, well-maintained pathsthrough thick lowland forest. Most ofthe way they parallel the beach, whichis usually no more than 90m (295 ft.)

away, so you can hike out on the trailand back along the beach, or vice versa.White-faced and howler monkeys arequite common here, as are brightly col-ored land crabs. See p. 349.


5 The Best Bird-Watching• Observing Oropendola & Blue-

Crowned Motmot at Parque delEste: A boon for city bird-watchers,this San José park rambles through acollection of lawns, planted gardens,and harvested forest, but it alsoincludes second-growth scrub anddense woodland. Oropendola andblue-crowned motmot are commonspecies here. Take the San Ramón/Parque del Este bus from Calle 9between Avenida Central andAvenida 2. See p. 130.

• Spotting Hundreds of Marsh &Stream Birds along the Río Temp-isque Basin: Hike around the PaloVerde Biological Station, or take aboat trip down the Bebedero Riverwith Swiss Travel Services (& 282-4898; www.swisstravelcr.com) orSafaris Corobicí (& 669-6191; www.nicoya.com). This area is an impor-tant breeding ground for gallinules,jacanas, and limpkins, as well as acommon habitat for numerous heronand kingfisher species. Palo Verde isabout a 31⁄2-hour drive from San José.See p. 157.

• Looking for More Than 300Species of Birds in La Selva Biolog-ical Station: With an excellent trailsystem through a variety of habitats,from dense primary rainforest to openpasturelands and cacao plantations,this is one of the finest places for bird-watching in Costa Rica. With such avariety of habitats, the number ofspecies spotted runs to well over 300.Contact the Organization for Tropi-cal Studies (& 524-0607; www.ots.ac.cr) or see p. 223.

• Sizing Up a Jabiru Stork at CañoNegro National Wildlife Refuge:Caño Negro Lake and the Río Fríothat feeds it are incredibly rich inwildlife and a major nesting and gath-ering site for aquatic bird species.These massive birds are getting lesscommon in Costa Rica, but this is stillone of the best places to spot one.Caño Negro Natural Lodge (& 265-3302; www.canonegrolodge.com) sitsright on the edge of the refuge andmakes a great base for exploring thisregion. See p. 231.

• Catching a Scarlet Macaw in Flightover Carara National Park: Hometo Costa Rica’s largest population ofscarlet macaws, Carara BiologicalReserve is a special place for devotedbird-watchers and recent converts.Macaws are noisy and colorful birdsthat spend their days in the park butchoose to roost in the evenings nearthe coast. They arrive like clockworkevery morning and then head for thecoastal mangroves around dusk.These daily migrations give birders agreat chance to see these magnificentbirds in flight. The reserve is locatedabout 2 hours from San José alongthe central Pacific coast. See p. 267.

• Looking for a Resplendent Quetzalin the Cerro de la Muerte: Don’t letthe name (Mountain of Death) scareyou away from the opportunity to seethis spectacular bird, revered by theancient Aztecs and Mayas. Seriousbird-watchers won’t want to leaveCosta Rica without crossing this birdoff their lists, and neophytes might behooked for life after seeing one of

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these iridescent green wonders flyoverhead, flashing its brilliant redbreast and trailing 2-foot-long tailfeathers. Trogon Lodge (& 293-8181;www.grupomawamba.com) can almostguarantee a sighting. The Cerro de laMuerte is a high mountain passlocated along the way to San Isidro deEl General about 11⁄2 hours from SanJosé. See “En Route to San Jose:Three Places to See Quetzals in theWild” in chapter 8.

• Spotting Hundreds of Species atWilson Botanical Gardens: Withmore than 7,000 species of tropicalplants and flowers, the well-tendedtrails and grounds of this beautifulresearch facility are fabulous for bird-watching. Hummingbirds and tan-agers are particularly plentiful, but

the bounty doesn’t end there—morethan 330 different species of birdshave been recorded here. Wilson Gar-dens is located about an hour outsidethe town of Golfito. See “Golfito:Gateway to the Golfo Dulce” inchapter 9.

• Taking Advantage of the Caribbean’sBest Birding at Aviarios del Caribe:In just a few short years, Aviarios delCaribe (& 750-0775) has establisheditself as the prime bird-watchingresort on the Caribbean. If it fliesalong this coast, chances are goodthat you’ll spot it here; more than330 species of birds have been spot-ted so far. Located on the Caribbeancoast, Aviarios del Caribe is about a3-hour drive from San José. See p. 351.

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6 The Best Destinations for Families• San José: If you’re spending any time

in San José, you’ll probably want tobe outside the rough-and-tumbledowntown area. The best place for allof you to experience Costa Rica’s cap-ital city (and still get a decent night’ssleep) is the Meliá Cariari (& 888/956-3542 in the U.S. and Canada or239-0022; www.solmelia.com). Withfacilities that include several largepools, gym, casino, shuttle service toa nearby spa and 18-hole golf course,and a game room (not to mention ababysitting service), there’s some-thing here for everyone. If you’re trav-eling with teens, they’ll feel right athome at the nearby Mall Cariari,which has a multiplex theater, anindoor skating rink, and, of course, afood court. Located just 15 minutesfrom downtown, it’s well situated forexploring all of the city’s sights andattractions. See p. 114.

• La Paz Waterfall Gardens (& 482-2720 or 225-0643; www.waterfallgardens.com): This multifaceted

attraction features paths and sus-pended walkways alongside a series ofimpressive jungle waterfalls. Kids lovethe variety and vibrancy of the vari-ous attractions here, from the buzzinghummingbirds to the impressivepower of the waterfalls. The rooms atthe Peace Lodge here are some of thebest in the country. See p. 114.

• Playa Hermosa: The protectedwaters of this Pacific beach make it afamily favorite. However, just becausethe waters are calm doesn’t mean it’sboring here. Check in at Aqua Sport(& 672-0050), where you can rentsea kayaks, sailboards, paddleboats,beach umbrellas, and bicycles. See“Playa Hermosa, Playa Panamá &Papagayo” in chapter 6.

• Allegro Papagayo Resort (& 800/858-2258 in the U.S. and Canada or 248-2323; www.occidentalhotels.com): This large all-inclusive resortprobably has the most extensive facil-ities, widest array of tours and activi-ties, and best-run children’s program

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set up in the country so far. The hotelis located on a very calm section ofBahía Culebra, and it even has a sep-arate “Fun Club” on a beautifulnearby white-sand beach. See p. 166.

• Playa Tamarindo: This lively surftown has a bit of something foreveryone. This is a great spot for teensto learn how to surf or boogie-board,and there are a host of tours andactivities to please the entire family.Hotel Capitán Suizo (& 653-0353;www.hotelcapitansuizo.com; p. 185)has an excellent location on a calmsection of beach, spacious rooms, anda great pool for kids and adults alike.See “Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande”in chapter 6.

• Monteverde: Located about 160km(99 miles) northwest of San José, thisarea not only boasts the country’smost famous cloud forest, but it alsosports a wide variety of related attrac-tions and activities. After hikingthrough the reserve, you should beable to keep most kids happy andoccupied riding horses; squirming atthe local serpentarium; or visiting thebutterfly farm, frog pond, and hum-mingbird gallery. More adventurousfamilies can take a horseback ride or

one of the local zip-line canopy tours.See “Monteverde” in chapter 7.

• Playa de Jacó: On the central Pacificcoast, this is Costa Rica’s liveliest andmost developed beach town. Thestreets are lined with souvenir shops,ice-cream stands, and inexpensiveeateries; there’s even a miniature-golfcourse. Older kids can rent a surf- orboogie-board, although everyoneshould be careful with the rough surfhere. The Club del Mar Condo-miniums & Resort (& 643-3194;www.clubdelmarcostarica.com; p. 268)is situated at the calm southern endof the beach. The hotel has a largefree-form pool and some shadygrounds, and is accommodating tofamilies traveling with small children.See “Playa de Jacó” in chapter 8.

• Manuel Antonio: Manuel Antonio hasa little bit of everything: miles of gor-geous beaches, tons of wildlife (withalmost guaranteed monkey sightings),and plenty of active-tour options.There’s a load of lodging options, butHotel Sí Como No (& 777-0777;www.sicomono.com), with its largesuites, two pools, water slide, andnightly movies, is probably your bestbet. See “Manuel Antonio NationalPark” in chapter 8.


7 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts• Marriott Costa Rica Hotel (San

Antonio de Belén, San José area; & 888/236-2427 in the U.S. andCanada or 298-0844; www.marriott.com): Of all the contenders in theupscale urban market, the Marriottseems to be doing the best job.Maybe that’s just because it’s thenewest, but everything is in greatshape, the service is bend-over-back-ward, the restaurants are excellent,and the hotel boasts all the facilitiesand amenities you could want. See p. 113.

• Peace Lodge (north of Varablanca;& 482-2720 or 225-0643; www.waterfallgardens.com): While thebathrooms of the deluxe units hereare the most luxurious and unique inthe country, everything else is done ingrand style as well. Each room comeswith at least one custom-tiled Jacuzzion a private balcony. The hoteladjoins the popular La Paz WaterfallGardens. See p. 114.

• Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica(Papagayo Peninsula; & 800/819-5053 in the U.S. or 696-0000;

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www.fourseasons.com/costarica):This was the first major resort toreally address the high-end luxurymarket in Costa Rica. Within its firstmonth of operation, both Madonnaand Michael Jordan were notableguests. A beautiful setting, wonderfulinstallations, a world-class golfcourse, and stellar service continue tomake this the current king of the hillin the upscale market. See p. 165.

• Hotel Punta Islita (on the Pacificcoast in central Guanacaste; & 231-6122; www.hotelpuntaislita.com):This is a great getaway. Perched on ahigh, flat bluff overlooking thePacific Ocean, Punta Islita is popularwith honeymooners, and rightly so.The rooms are large and comfortable,the food is excellent, and the setting isstunning. If you venture beyond yourroom and the hotel’s inviting hillsidepool, there’s a long, almost alwaysdeserted beach for you to explore, aswell as a wealth of activities for themore adventurous. See p. 203.

• Flor Blanca Resort (Playa SantaTeresa; & 640-0232; www.florblanca.com): The individual villas at thisintimate resort are some of the largestand most luxurious in the country.The service and food are outstanding,and the location is breathtaking,spread over a lushly planted hillsidejust steps away from Playa SantaTeresa. See p. 215.

• Marriott Los Sueños Ocean & GolfResort (Playa Herradura; & 888/236-2427 in the U.S., 298-0844, or 630-9000; www.marriott.com): With large,

luxurious rooms, an 18-hole golfcourse, tons of facilities and ameni-ties, and a large maze of a pool builtto resemble the canals of Venice, thisis one of the finest luxury resorts inCosta Rica. The only real downsidehere is the decidedly mediocre beach.See p. 270.

• Villa Caletas (north of Jacó; & 637-0505; www.hotelvillacaletas.com):Spread out over a steep hillside highabove the Pacific Ocean, these indi-vidual villas have a Mediterraneanfeel. The Greek Doric amphitheaterfollows the same motif. Carved intothe hillside, the theater frequentlyfeatures evening concerts of jazz orclassical music. The “infinity pool”here was one of the first in Costa Ricaand is still my favorite. Sitting in alounge chair at the pool’s edge, you’llswear that it joins the sea beyond. Seep. 270.

• Makanda by the Sea (Manuel Anto-nio; & 888/625-2632 in the U.S. or777-0442; www.makanda.com): Thelarge and luxurious villas here are won-derfully decorated and set on a forestedhillside with wonderful views out tothe sea. The overall vibe is intimate andromantic, and the service and food areexcellent as well. See p. 285.

• Hotel Sí Como No (Manuel Anto-nio; & 777-0777; www.sicomono.com): Although there are fancier andmore posh places in Costa Rica, thelarge modern suites and villas, spec-tacular views, attentive service, andfirst-rate facilities here earn this smallresort a spot on this list. See p. 284.

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8 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels• Hotel Grano de Oro (San José;

& 255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com): San José boasts dozens of oldhomes that have been converted intohotels, but few offer the luxurious

accommodations or professional servicethat can be found at the Grano de Oro.Throughout all the guest rooms, you’llfind attractive hardwood furniture,including old-fashioned wardrobes in

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some rooms. When it comes time torelax, you can soak in a hot tub orhave a drink in the rooftop loungewhile taking in the commandingview of San José. See p. 109.

• Hôtel Le Bergerac (San José; & 234-7850; www.bergerachotel.com): Thisclassy little hotel has been pleasingdiplomats, dignitaries, and other dis-cerning travelers for years. Ask forone of the garden rooms or get theold master bedroom with its smallprivate balcony. See p. 110.

• Villa del Sueño Hotel (Playa Her-mosa; &/fax 672-0026; www.villadelsueno.com): It’s not right on thebeach (you’ll have to walk about 90m/295 ft.), but everything else aboutthis place is right on the money,including clean, comfortable rooms;a nice refreshing pool; and an excel-lent restaurant. You can’t do better inPlaya Hermosa. See p. 168.

• Amor de Mar (&/fax 642-0262;www.amordemar.com): Clean, spa-cious, and comfortable rooms set on

a sloping lawn that leads down to arocky coastline, with a natural poolcarved into the rocks, all add up tomy idea of a tropical paradise. See p. 210.

• Hotel El Sapo Dorado (Monteverde;& 645-5010; www.sapodorado.com):Spacious wooden cabins with fire-places and private porches are spreadacross an open hillside planted withfruit trees and tropical flowers. Thehotel has an excellent restaurant andis a great place to enjoy some of thebest sunsets in town. See p. 251.

• Cariblue Bungalows (Playa Cocles;& 750-0035; www.cariblue.com):Try to get one of the private woodenbungalows here. If you do, you mightbe so happy and comfortable that youwon’t want to leave. Just 90m (295ft.) or so away, however, are the warmwaves of the Caribbean Sea. If thisplace is full, the neighboring AzaniaBungalows (& 750-0540; www.azania-costarica.com), is just about asgood. See p. 362.


9 The Best Ecolodges & Wilderness ResortsThe term “ecotourism” is now ubiquitouswithin the travel industry, particularly inCosta Rica. Ecolodge options in CostaRica range from tent camps with no elec-tricity, cold-water showers, and communalbuffet-style meals to some of the most lux-urious accommodations in the country.Generally, outstanding ecolodges andwilderness resorts are set apart by an ongo-ing commitment (financial or otherwise)to minimizing their effect on surroundingecosystems and to supporting both conser-vation efforts and the residents of localcommunities. They should also be able toprovide naturalist guides and plentifulinformation. All of the following do.

• La Selva Biological Station (southof Puerto Viejo; & 524-0628; www.ots.ac.cr): Sure, this place is geared

more toward researchers thantourists, but that (along with the sur-rounding rainforest and extensivetrail system) is what makes this one ofthe best ecotourism spots in thecountry. See p. 223.

• Arenal Observatory Lodge (near LaFortuna; & 290-7011; www.arenal-observatory.co.cr): Originally a researchfacility, this lodge has upgraded quitea bit over the years and now featurescomfortable rooms with impressiveviews of the Arenal Volcano. Thereare also excellent trails to nearby lavaflows and a nice waterfall. Toucansfrequent the trees near the lodge, andhowler monkeys provide the wake-upcalls. See p. 235.

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• Monteverde Lodge (Playa Carate; & 257-0766; www.monteverdelodge.com): One of the original ecolodgesin Monteverde, this place has onlyimproved over the years, with greatguides, updated rooms and lush gar-dens. The whole operation is run bythe very dependable and experiencedCosta Rica Expeditions. See p. 252.

• La Paloma Lodge (Drake Bay; & 293-7502; www.lapalomalodge.com): If your idea of the perfectnature lodge is one where your frontporch provides some prime-timeviewing of flora and fauna, this placeis for you. If you decide to leave thecomfort of your porch, the OsaPeninsula’s lowland rainforests arejust outside your door. See p. 313.

• Bosque del Cabo Rainforest Lodge(Osa Peninsula; &/fax 735-5206;www.bosquedelcabo.com): Large andcomfortable private cabins perchedon the edge of a cliff overlooking thePacific Ocean and surrounded bylush rainforest make this one of myfavorite spots in the country. There’splenty to do, and there are alwaysgreat guides here. See p. 321.

• Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge(Golfo Dulce; & 866/348-7610 in

the U.S. or 735-5237; www.nicuesalodge.com): This new lodge is by farthe best option on the Golfo Dulce.Set in deep forest, the individual bun-galows here are a perfect blend of rus-ticity and luxury. See p. 327.

• Tortuga Lodge (Tortuguero; & 257-0766; www.tortugalodge.com): Thecanals of Tortuguero snake through amaze of lowland primary rainforest.The beaches here are major sea-turtlenesting sites. This is not only themost comfortable option in the area,but it’s also another of the excellentecolodges run by Costa Rica Expedi-tions. See p. 344.

• Selva Bananito Lodge (in the Tala-manca Mountains south of Limón;& 253-8118; www.selvabananito.com): This is one of the few lodgesproviding direct access to the south-ern Caribbean lowland rainforests.There’s no electricity here, but thatdoesn’t mean it’s not plush. Hikealong a riverbed, ride horses throughthe rainforest, climb 30m (100 ft.) upa ceiba tree, or rappel down a junglewaterfall. There’s fabulous bird-watching here, and the Caribbeanbeaches are nearby. See p. 347.

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10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns• Finca Rosa Blanca Country Inn

(Heredia; & 269-9392; www.fincarosablanca.com): If the cookie-cutterrooms of international resorts leaveyou cold, then perhaps the uniquerooms of this unusual inn will bemore your style. Square corners seemto have been prohibited here in favorof turrets and curving walls of glass,arched windows, and a semicircularbuilt-in couch. It’s set into the lushhillsides just 20 minutes from SanJosé. See p. 113.

• Vista del Valle Plantation Inn (nearGrecia; & 450-0800; www.vistadel

valle.com): This is a great choice forthose who want something close tothe airport but have no need for SanJosé. The separate cabins are influ-enced by traditional Japanese archi-tecture, with lots of polishedwoodwork and plenty of light. Thegardens are also meticulously tended,and the chef is excellent. A nice tilepool and Jacuzzi look out over a deepriver canyon. See p. 115.

• Sueño del Mar (Playa Tamarindo;&/fax 653-0284; www.sueno-del-mar.com): You might think you’redreaming here. The rooms feature

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African dolls on the windowsills,Kokopeli candleholders, and open-airshowers with sculpted angelfish,hand-painted tiles, and lush tropicalplants. The fabrics are from Bali andGuatemala. Somehow all this workswell together. Add in the requisitehammocks under shade trees right onthe beach and a new small pool, andyou really have something. Thebreakfasts here are earning localrenown; yours is included in the priceof your room. See p. 186.

• Arco Iris Lodge (Monteverde; & 645-5067; www.arcoirislodge.com): Thissmall lodge is right in Santa Elena, andit’s by far the best deal in the Mon-teverde area. The owners are extremelyknowledgeable and helpful. See p. 253.

• Cabinas Los Cocos (Playa Zancudo;&/fax 776-0012; www.loscocos.com):

If you’ve ever dreamed about chuck-ing it all and setting up shop in a sim-ple house right on the beach, youshould come here and give it a trialrun first. See p. 331.

• Shawandha Lodge (Playa Chiquita;& 750-0018; www.shawandhalodge.com): Spacious, individual bunga-lows set amid flowering gardens andthick jungle make this the most com-fortable lodge on the Caribbean coast.Artistic touches abound. See p. 362.

• Cabinas Casa Verde (Puerto Viejo;& 750-0015; www.cabinascasaverde.com): This is my favorite budgetlodging along the Caribbean coast.The rooms are clean and airy and havecomfortable beds with mosquito nets.The owner is friendly and is alwaysdoing some work in the gardens oraround the grounds. See p. 360.


11 The Best Restaurants• Tin Jo (San José; & 221-7605): In a

city with hundreds of Chinese restau-rants, this place stands head andshoulders above the competition. Inaddition to an extensive selection ofSzechuan and Cantonese classics,there are Japanese, Thai, Indian, andMalaysian dishes on the menu. Tin Johas the most adventurous Asian cui-sine in Costa Rica. See p. 119.

• Grano de Oro Restaurant (San José;& 255-3322): This elegant littlehotel has a similarly elegant restau-rant serving delicious Continentaldishes and decadent desserts. Theopen-air seating in the lushly plantedcentral courtyard is delightful, espe-cially for lunch. See p. 121.

• Camarón Dorado (Playa Brasilito;& 654-4028): Simple, fresh seafoodserved on plastic lawn furniture set inthe sand just steps from the crashingwaves makes this place a wonderfulspot. The attentive, semiformal serv-ice makes it even better. See p. 179.

• Sofia (Monteverde; & 645-7017):This restaurant serves excellent NewLatin fusion fare at a small spaceabout halfway along the rough dirtroad between Santa Elena and theMonteverde Cloud Forest Preserve.See p. 255.

• Ginger (Playa Hermosa; & 672-0041): Serving an eclectic mix of tra-ditional and Pan-Asian-influencedtapas, this sophisticated little joint istaking this part of Guanacaste bystorm. They’ve got a list of creativecocktails to match the inventivedishes. See p. 168.

• Nectar (at Flor Blanca Resort, SantaTeresa; & 640-0232): Guanacaste’sbest boutique resort also has one ofits best restaurants. The menuchanges nightly but always has aheavy Pan-Asian fusion flavor to it.The setting is romantic and subduedin an open-air space just steps fromthe sand. See p. 217.

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• Playa de los Artistas (Montezuma;& 642-0920): This place is the per-fect blend of refined cuisine andbeachside funkiness. There are only afew tables, so make sure you get hereearly. Fresh, grilled seafood is servedin oversize ceramic bowls and onlarge wooden slabs lined with bananaleaves. See p. 213.

• El Patio Bistro Latino (Quepos; & 777-4982): This casually elegantlittle place has made a name for itself

in Quepos. The chef ’s creative con-coctions take full advantage of freshlocal ingredients. See p. 290.

• La Pecora Nera (Puerto Viejo; & 750-0490): I’m not sure that a tiny surfertown on the remote Caribbean coastdeserves such fine Italian food, butit’s got it. Your best bet here is to allowyourself to be taken on a culinaryroller-coaster ride with a mixed feastof the chef ’s nightly specials and sug-gestions. See p. 365.

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12 The Best Views• The Summit of Irazú Volcano (near

San José): On a very clear day youcan see both the Pacific Ocean andthe Caribbean Sea from this vantagepoint. Even if visibility is low and thisexperience eludes you, you will have aview of the volcano’s spectacularlandscape, the Meseta Central, andthe Orosi Valley. See “Holy Smoke!:Choosing the Volcano Trip That’sRight for You” in chapter 5.

• El Mirador Ehecatl (& 679-9104):This humble little restaurant holds acommanding view of Bahía Salinas.It’s not necessarily worth the drivefrom San José, and the food is basic atbest. But if you’re anywhere near LaCruz, this is a must-stop for sunset.See “La Cruz” in chapter 6.

• Iguanazul Hotel (Playa Junquillal;& 658-8124; www.iguanazul.com):Located on a high bluff above PlayaJunquillal, this hotel has a wonderfulview of the Pacific and the windsweptcoastline in either direction. It getsbest around sunset and is better yet ifyou can commandeer one of thehammocks set in a little palapa on thehillside itself. See p. 193.

• Tabacón Hot Springs Resort & Spa(near Arenal Volcano; & 519-1900;www.tabacon.com): It seems so close,you’ll swear you can reach out and

touch the volcano. Unlike on IrazúVolcano (see above), when this vol-cano rumbles and spews, you mighthave the urge to run for cover. Mostrooms here have spectacular viewsfrom sheltered private patios or bal-conies. See p. 235.

• Villa Caletas (Playa Hermosa deJacó; & 637-0505): You’ll have aview over the Golfo de Nicoya andthe Pacific Ocean beyond. Sunsets atthe hotel’s outdoor amphitheater arelegendary, but it’s beautiful here dur-ing the day as well. See p. 270.

• Hotel La Mariposa (Quepos; & 800/416-2747 or 777-0355; www.lamariposa.com): This place has arguablythe best view in Manuel Antonio,and that’s saying a lot. Come forbreakfast or a sunset drink because,unfortunately, I’ve had bad luck withdinner here. See p. 283.

• The Summit of Mount Chirripó(near San Isidro): What more can onesay? At 3,724m (12,215 ft.), this isthe highest spot in Costa Rica. On aclear day, you can see both the PacificOcean and the Caribbean Sea fromhere. Even if it isn’t clear, you cancatch some pretty amazing views andscenery. See “San Isidro de El General:A Base for Exploring ChirripóNational Park” in chapter 8.

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13 The Best After-Dark Fun• Night Tours (countrywide): Most

Neotropical forest dwellers are noc-turnal. Animal and insect calls fill theair, and the rustling on the ground allaround takes on new meanings.Night tours are offered at most rain-and cloud-forest destinations through-out the country. Many use high-powered flashlights to catch glimpsesof various animals. Some of the betterspots for night tours are Monteverde,Tortuguero, and the Osa Peninsula.Volcano viewing in Arenal is anothernot-to-miss nighttime activity.

• El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte(San José; & 221-0327): This iswhere San José’s young, restless, andbeautiful congregate. From Wednes-day to Saturday the place is jam-packed. Originally a gay and bohemianhangout, it is now decidedly mixedand leaning toward yuppie. There’sfrequently live music here. See p. 139.

• San Pedro (San José): This is SanJosé’s university district, and at nightits streets are filled with studentsstrolling among a variety of bars andcafes. If you’d like to join them, keepin mind that La Villa (& 281-1571)caters to artists and bohemians,Mosaikos (& 280-9541) is popularwith young Tico rockers, OmarKhayyam (& 253-8455) is a greatplace to grab an outdoor table andwatch the crowds walk by, and TerraU (& 225-4261) is the quintessen-tial college bar, attracting a mix oflocal and foreign exchange students.All of the spots listed above arelocated in a 3-block stretch thatbegins 200m (656 ft.) east of the San

Pedro Church and heads north. Ifyou head straight 500m (1,640 ft.),east from the church, you’ll come toJazz Café (& 253-8933), which, asits name indicates, often features livejazz. See “San José After Dark” inchapter 5.

• Mar y Sombra (Manuel Antonio; & 777-0510): Located on the beacha couple of hundred meters from thenational park entrance, this is themost happening spot in the ManuelAntonio area. There’s a large, open-air dance floor and plenty of tables setin the sand. If the dancing gets toointense, you can always cool your feetin the ocean. See “Manuel AntonioNational Park” in chapter 8.

• San Clemente Bar & Grill (Domini-cal; & 787-0055): This is a quintes-sential surfers’ joint, but whether youhang ten or not, this is where you’llwant to hang out in Dominical atnight. The fresh seafood and Tex-Mex specialties are hearty, tasty, andinexpensive. And there are pool,Ping-Pong, and foosball tables, aswell as televised sporting events andsurf videos. See “Dominical” in chap-ter 8.

• Puerto Viejo: This small beach townon the southern end of Costa Rica’sCaribbean coast is one of the mostactive after-dark scenes in the coun-try. Johnny’s Place and Stanford’s taketurns as the major dance-and-partyspot, but there are several other hap-pening spots, as well as a few after-hours beach bonfires and jamsessions, to be found. See “PuertoViejo” in chapter 10.

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T H E B E S T W E B S I T E S A B O U T C O S TA R I C A 21

14 The Best Websites About Costa Rica• The Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net):

A selection from the English-languageTico Times makes it easy for norteam-ericanos (and other English speakers)to see what’s happening in CostaRica. It features the top story from itsweekly print edition, as well as a dailyupdate of news briefs, a business arti-cle, regional news, a fishing column,and travel reviews. There’s also a linkto current currency-exchange rates.

• Latin America Network Informa-tion Center (http://lanic.utexas.edu/la/ca/cr): This site houses a vast col-lection of diverse information aboutCosta Rica. This is hands-down the

best one-stop shop for Web browsing,with helpful links to a wide range oftourism and general informationsites.

• Maptak (www.maptak.com): This isthe best site I’ve found for onlinemaps. The site is still expanding andimproving, and there’s a tiny bit of alearning curve here, but this is overalla very valuable resource.

• Superpages (http://english.cr.superpages.com): This site has searchableonline versions of both Costa Rica’sWhite and Yellow Pages. You caneven do a reverse search to look upthe owner of a phone number.

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