the battlefield zero full pictures
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The Battlefield Zero
By Paul Howe
General
I have heard many explanations and thought processes as to the best "Battlefield Zero"for the M16/M-4 type weapon system. Some explain how the knobs should be turned and
the sights flipped to best accommodate hits. Some of these explanations require a college
degree to decipher. Others use graphs and charts to justify their claims. Nothing confirms
a zero like walking the actual ground and checking the hits on your target. So put awayyour graphs, charts, knobs, etc. and let's look at some holds and shots.
For the record, I zero at 100 yards….
Weapon and Ammo:
Rifle: Rock River
Sights: Iron (CSAT Rear/Trijicon Front with tritium insert)
Ammo: 62 Grain American Eagle FMJ/55 Grain WW FMJ
Wind: Day 1 Gusting/Variable from L-R/Day two was calm
Position used: Prone Unsupported
Rifle Used: Rock River
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I make a box using the head template, roughly 6 x 6 inches. I put it high in the scoring
box of a CSAT target to get a high thoracic hit.
DELIBERATE OFFSET OF 3" HIGH WITH MY SIGHTS:
At 100 yards, I adjusted my sights to hit about 3" high or 3 click up on my rear dial
from where my front sight cut the target. 100 Yard hit are marked in the center of
the box.
75 hit a little lower
50 a little lower
25 cut the line
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100 Yard Point of Aim/Point of Impact
My zero here was to have the bullets cut where my front sight post met the target. Thegroup dropped a little lower than the offset method from 100 yards and in. No real
change in overall group.
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3"OFFSET AT 200/300Here is where the real difference can be found in the zeros. Out to 200 yards, you
hit about the same. At 300, you drop from 4 to 12". Remember, this is the built in
offset and my sight picture was consistent at the base of the box.
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POA/POI at 100 caused me minor problems at 200/300. It dropped a bit more at
200 and 300 was significantly low. Normally I hold on your shoulders or face when
shooting 300 with this zero.
Also, my eye was getting fuzzy by this time, trying to see the small box. It was fading
out at times.
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Head Shots:
Head Shots s at 100 with the offset was easy to see and deliver
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POA/POI works, but I threw one. As a side note, you can do a center hold, but your
eye may have a problem going back and forth to see how much black you are
dipping your sight into. This may cause eye strain. Using a 6 o'clock hold, you can
simply lollypop the head on your front sight.
OVERALL RESULTS:
Deliberate Offset Method (3" high at 100 yards)
The deliberate offset method gave me reliable hits out to 300 with the same sight picture.
At 100 on a head target, I would simply hold on your chin and get a center masshit in your melon. If you were prone, I would simply aim where your head andground meet.
Point of Aim/Point of Impact Method
Gives you accurate hits to 100-200 yards
Falls off at 300
At 300, I know to hold on the shoulders
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OTHER POINTS:
100 zero
I prefer zeroing and training at 100 yards for several reasons:
It makes you a better shooter
It is a realistic distance for combat and the capability of your weapon
It gives you a versatile zero out to 300 yards with a realistic expectation of a 1stround hit.
As a side note, I have never had anyone come to a Tactical Rifle Instructor or TacticalRifle course with a 50 yard zero and shoot it across my standards or ranges. All had to
adjust their sights. Many did not know where their round would strike at 100 and
beyond.
Field Fire
I first picked up this term in my time as a sniper. That is having a zero and knowing your
hold offs for targets within the appropriate range of your weapon. This is important to
know for combat.
Sights
You need to learn how to shoot iron sights. Above is a picture of an Aimpoint T-1 thatwas hit with a simunitions round during training. This could have just as easy been a
bullet, shrapnel, debris, mud, etc. You need a quick release mount when using optics and
I suggest that you co-witness them with your iron sights. Reference optics, my favoritesare the Leupold CQT and the Aimpoint T-1.
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Establishing reference points for consistent shooting is critical for consistent accuracy.
These "index" points will transfer to weapons with optical sights.
I have witnessed optics fail in competitions, training and combat. In one law
enforcement situation, a battery powered optic failed and the officer killed a bad guy with
his iron sights five minutes later. In combat I have witnessed soldiers with optics thatclouded up with moisture have to pick up a new weapon because they could not get the
optic off and could not see through it.
It is criminal that the U.S. Army is teaching basic training recruits to shoot withAimpoints and no iron sights. They are going to get soldiers killed or other Army units
will have to retrain them sometime down the road.
I have developed a combat sight that allows you to shoot 0-300 yards and beyond if you
know your weapon system. In the above sight, you use the notch at 7 yards and the peep
beyond 15. I try to keep it simple.
Also, I mark my windage and elevation knobs with a paint pen to know where my zero is.
I can view these marks as part of my pre-combat inspection of my rifle.
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Zero's and Results
Through these series of pictures, I am attempting to show how I zero and my groups outto 300 yards using iron sights. I hope I have simplified your understanding of this
process. There is little magic to it and it works.
The above groups were fired using WW 55 grain FMJ. The top group was using my
AE 62 Grain zero from the day before. I had to come down four clicks and left four
clicks on my rear drums to get my groups to center up.
If you change ammo weights or manufacturers, re-check your zero. It will
change your zero.
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The above group was fired using WW 55 Grain FMJ using the 100 yard 3" offset on
the sights. My 300 yard group was a bit spread out because I was taking too much
time going back and forth with my eye to the target and the sight, trying to fine tunethe shot.
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This group was fired using POA/POI WW 55 Grain FMJ. I threw one out a bit at
200, but I am happy with my 300 yard group. In this string, I took my first best
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sight picture and pulled the trigger without trying to over focus on the target.
Generally, your bullet drops two" inches at 200. Your eye cannot see this.
Summary:
I do occasionally shoot optics and have some that I like and us. When I do shoot them, Ihave them co-witnessed and mounted with throw lever mounts whenever possible should
they fail.
In my experience of fast moving combat, I never had time to turn knobs or flip sights. Ihad to use what I had on the gun for the shot required. The window of opportunity opens
and closes in a flash and you either make the shot or you do not. You might have time in
a static position such as was found in WWII, but not in a fast moving urban environment.
Further, you now have a light caliber weapon system that requires more accurate hits to
put the target down in a rapid manner. In this case, you must know where your bullet
strikes to do this.
Finally, in my former special operations life I learned that you might get a full body shot
on one opponent in a gun fight, but as soon as you shoot them, their friends will takecover and probably only give you a head or weapon system to shoot at. I used to make
team members practice shots on full and partial targets at 100 yards and beyond. This is
reality. Bad guys use cover as we do. You must be able to hit them when they get small.
I hope this helps answer some questions and if you have any, feel free to e-mail me via
my web site.
About the Author
Paul R. Howe is a 20-year veteran and former Special Operations soldier and instructor.Paul currently owns Combat Shooting and Tactics (CSAT) where he consults with, trains
and evaluates law enforcement and government agencies in technical and tactical
techniques throughout the special operations spectrum. See
www.combatshootingandtactics.com for details.