The ArtOFMILLINERYA complete series of,PRACTICAL LESSONSFORTHEARTISTEANDTHEAMATEURByMME. ANNABENyOSUFTHE MILLINERYTRADE PUBLISHING CO.13Aslor Place, New YorklCopyriahled'909 andall riahll rtlerved.Entered accordinatoActof ConlilltlSinthe office of The Librariao of CoDireuat Wuhinaton, D. C.CONTENTSPagePreface-ByCharles W. Farmer,Editor TheMillineryTradeReview........ 3Introduction-By TheAuthor......................... 5LESSONI-Draftingand MakIngBuckramFrames.... 7LESSONII-Making Wire Frames.................... 25LESSONIII-Coveringof Frames..................... 39LESSONIV-CuttingMaterials, MakingBinds and Folds 53LESSONV-Shirrings and Folds...................... 62LESSONVI-SewingStraw Hats...................... 83LESSONVII-Children's Millinery.................... 96LESSONVIII-Mourning Mlllinery _ 114LESSONIX-Plaitings, Ruches, Lace Trimmings 140LESSONX-SimpleBowMaking 151LESSONXI-Draping 166LESSO' XU-Trimming 177LESSONXIII-TheMakingof Ribbon andSilkFlowers 1 9 ~LESSONXIV-Taking Stock. Careful Packing Away.Reno\'aUng Materials................ 21-lLESSONXV-Startinga Mlllinery Business 226LESSONXVI-The Designer in the Workroom 236LESSONXVII-MakingandUse of Bandeaux 241Glossaryof MillineryandDryGoodsTerms ........... 2482166545SEP 11 1912. ~PREFACETHEREis no department of women's workmorefascinating or more remunerative thanmillinery,providedshewhoessays to be amillinerhasthetalent to manipulate materials andanartisticeye forthe harmonious blendingof colors; and yet with allthese, if thereislackingconstrllclh'cability, theroadto success is impeded andthe ambition to become acreator of fashion in women's headwear is thwartedtonolimitedextent. Toassist those, therefore, whopossesstalent anddesiretoperfect themselves inthepractical work of millinery, as well as to extend theartistic talent of the trimmer and designer, is theaimof theauthor of this book. :\0better pen couldattempt such a taskwithgoodpromiseof successthanthat of ~ I a d a m c Anna Ben- YtISUf. whose experienceasanartisticdcsignerinParisandLondon, andwhoseabilityas a prcceptress placed her incharge of publicand philanthropic institutions in London, where mil-lincry is taught as a science and where she obtaincdprizes for her work, besides testimonials signed byMembers of Parliament and heads of great schoolsof learning. ,rarlame Ben-Yusuf was also for sev-eral years a preceptress at Pratt Institute, Brooklyn,teaching the art of millinery in all its branches with3PREI"ACEsuchsuccess that man)' of her pupils are nowoccupy-ing positions of prominence in the trade, either asworkers, heads of establishmcntsof theirown, ormak-ing lise in the home circle of the talents devclopedthrough this teacher's instrumentality.Jladame Ben-YilslIf has been a contributor to thccolumnsof TheJlillincryTradeReviewfor a numberof years as theauthor of "Hints to Jlilliners" and "Thcl\lilliner in the \rorkroom," articles which have beengreatlyappreciatedbythe readers ofthis well knownjournal.The novice, the artiste, the milliner, the designerand the trimmer \dlJ obtain fromthe pages of thisbook those helps which will add to their store ofknowlcdgeandwillgreatlybenefit them, whether it beinthemillineryparlor,trimming rot>mor the home.CIl.\RLES \ \ .. F.\R'lER.Editor The)!ilIiner)' TradeReview.KewYork, )!a)', '909.COI'YlllOll'l', 1!)0!1.'rUE 1I11l,LIXEIlY TH,\IH: l ' U U l . l ~ I I I N G co:'EW YO!:I\.4INTRODUCTIONALTHOCGHitisbestwhenpossible tohaveper-sonal instruction froIII a competent teacher,there arelllallYwhohave neither the time noropportunitythus to gain the kl1O\Yicdgc necessary tosuccess in millincn": it is for such as these thereforethat theselessons;trccompiled.l\lillincfY is ycry wide in its scope; this series oflessons might easily be doubled and still lea\'c some-thing to.bc said;it hasthereforeheenthewriter'saim,fromthe iUl1d of many years' experience. to confineherself to the chief essentials of this fascinating art,which, whenthoroughlymastered. \\"ill enablethestu-dent toworkout stlccess.fullyany newideas or prob-lems she may encounter. Each season brings newmodes, and with these, newmethods of handling thematerials; though indecd ncit her may be "new:" butmerely a revival of someold. oldfashion. bothinstyleand workmanship, clevcrly adapted to the modes ofthe day. The technicalities once mastered, the un-usual will present nodifficulties: and novel ideas willhe easily absorbed.IVliliincry consists of two branches. the design anclthecomposition. Thedesig-tl is the t\RTof thework:the composition is the technical putting- togcther ofthe design, most of whioh can he done I?)' the;(maker:" but it takes anartist to evolve the design.Thedesigner must understandthe workof thewholeor she cannot direct the maker, and both must have5I ~ T R O D U C T I O ~an intimate knowledge of materials and their possi-bilities, andofthesenot the least important are whatthe uninitiated would call "trifles." It is oftenjustoneofthese 'trifles" that gi've the final touchof truearttothedesign.Remember that the mere goingthrough these les-sons will not give the requisite proficiency. The ex-amples must bedone many times toensure deftness,lightness of touch, andthespeednecessaryfor accept-abilityinanyworkroom. Onlytheself-confidencethatcomes withmuchpracticewill assurethe pupil of herabilitytocopyParisianmodels. This isnot onlythetest, butamost desirablecompletiontoher educationas a milliner; aneducation that will developher ownabilitytodesign, tooriginate. It maybeslowwork,but thegoal withits fineemolumcntsis worNl all thctimeandlabor we cangive it.The youngwoman who desires to make her ownhats, andthoseof herfamily, will findinthese,-whenthe lessons have been mastered,-enough practice tolaythefoundation of an accomplishment that, shouldit ever become necessary. will prove a pleasant andprofitable means of livelihood, and in the meantimeenablehertoevolveaccuratecopiesof Parisiancrea-tions at a small part of the importers' prices; thoughsuchprices, all expenses taken1ntoconsideration, areperfectly fair. Thus, then, to Td,e Artist and TheAmateurthis bookisdedicatedby THEAUTHOR.6THEARTOFMILLINERYASeries 01 Practical Millinery Lessons Written Originallylor The Millinery Trade ReviewbyMME. ANNABEN-yOSUFLatc :\1iUinery InAructor It Pratt InRiune, Brooklyn. N. Y.LESSONIDRAFTINGBUCKRAMFRAMESFRAMESare no\\" tobe had ready for lise, of thefinestqualityandinall themost exclusiveshapes,as well as those suitable for mediumand cheaptrade, both in infinite variety; and if an importer ordesigner has a special novelty. the manufacturers willmake and reserve this pattern for the designer; thereis therefore far less frame-making done in workroomsthan there was a coupleof decades ago; but designcr:-;and copyistsfrequentlyfindit necessarytoaltershapes;andalsoincopying amodel the framehasusuallytobemade. Anextra frame is sent with every model thatcomes over, andif the buyersinsist ongettingthemodelframewitheverypatternhattheypurchase, themillinercaneasilycopyit; otherwisethemeasurements must becarefully taken, without inthe least disarranging the hat.The designer in a frame factory drafts his pattemsbygeometricrules; hehasusuallyplenty oftabler00111.Themilliner hasonlylimitedspace, andthereforefindsasimplermethodmoreexpedient; but we will considerhothmethods, that thepupil mayuseeither or both, asmayseemexpedient.7THE ART OFTo Draft a Frame on Geometrical PrinciplesBeginbycopying asimpleshape; take and note downall mcasurements, i. e., Sizeof headline. circumferenccanddiameter. Thecircumferenceis. roughlyspeaking.three times the diameter. but, accurately measured, itwill be foundtobeaseventhmore. Forinstance-Diamcter.Circumference. Back to Front. Side to Side.18 6 5J/,'7 5J/, 5X16 5X 5and intemlediate measurements in corresponding ratio.An elliptical or oval crown fits the head better thanthe round form, but very small head sizes arc usuallyround, and fitted to the head by bandeaux. Somecrowns that are round at the tip are fitted to 3n ovalheadline.Hthe side band of crown is quite straight, the tip(top), beingthesamesizeas thehead, noseparatepat-tern is needed; the piece that comes out of brim athead line serves as pattern for topof crown. and theside of crown is a straight stripcut to length of cir-cumference with one-half inch laps added, and of therequired depth.If, however, theupper circleof crowndiffers in sizefrom the headline circumference, this circumferenceand diameter must be noted down.Forthebrimtake entire diameter from backtofront,andsidetoside, alsoat anevendistancebetweenthesepointstakediagonal measures across; noting all downaccurately.Nexttakediameterof headsize 01/. under sideof !lat,backtofront and side to side; then thebrimfromtheedgeinto theheadline, front, back, right side, left side,andbetweenifnecessary-assome special curve of brimdepends often onthesemeasures. as for instance in the"Gainsboro," boat shapes, etc. (Sec Figs. 3 and6.)8THE ART OF' :\frLLlXER,'"LayingOut"the ShapeTake a sheet of pattern paper more than twice aslargeas thelargestdiameter of brim: fixit on a table orlarge drawingboard with drawing pins: in the upperhalf rule a pcrfect squarc, each side measuring thelargest diameter of your hat brim. (See Fig, 1.) Nowrule diagonal lines from corner to corner. and oneperpendicular and one horizontal line from middle tomiddleof each line of thesCJuare. soall thelines crossat the exact middle of square; mark this dot T (seeFig. 2);- andmark thestraight lines AandB. Let liSsuppose your brimis 6 inches front depth, 3 inchesback, with a6 inch diameterof fromfront toback. and 50from side to side: that gi\-es you alargest diameter of entire brimof 15inches; therefore At-----7IE----IBFIG. 1 FIG. 2must measure 15 inches along each side.\Vlthm til.ls d:aw a circle touching each side, bypllll,11l1g ain exact middle and holdingpellcl1stfJllg at rCCjtllrecl length. :--.Jawmeasurefromtop of !mc A where it touches the square. 6 inchesdow.11 and put dot 3; measure3inches lip fromof 1111e Aand put dot 4. Find exact middle from3to 4 and make dot 2 for center of headsize. Takemeasure fromdot. I to 2, and take same fromline B9'THE ART OFdownward on each side ofsquaredot andrule acrossfor line C. (SeeFig. 2.)Nowfromdot 2 measureto eachside along lineC thehalf of cross headsize which in the example is 2)4inchesandplace dots 5and6. .Todrawan elliptical headline measure fromdots 2to 4, get same measure obliquely bylettingthe rulertouch dot6andthe otherendof measurestrikelineA;rule from6upward in same way, markthesedots X;setthecompassonthesedotsanddrawingtoright andleft, a true oval can be obtained, taking the longestpoint for radius, andtouchingeachdotofthediameter.l'.FIG. 3.At. secondcirclefor tipisdone in thesameway, movingthecompass a little upor down inproportion, and anoval brimisalsoobtained bythisrule. takinga centraltwo-fourths of longest diameter as pivots. fromwhichtoswingcompass. (SeeFig. 3.)If compassesarenot at hand tiea knot intheenel ofa bit ofstring, pushadrawingpin through knot, andstickfirmlyonthe dot insteadofcompass point, meas-ure stringtothe point of radius, twist it ro1'11d a bitof pencil meetingthis point and drawcircleor oval asrequired.10lHE ART OF j lrLLINERYIt is safest to swingcurves fromeach straight linetowards thediagonals ensuringtheirmeetingaccurate-ly there; measured dots will ensure both sides beingalike, or eccentric, ifsorequired; andthecurvesswungaccording. (See Figs. 3anel 4)For thebrimstickcompass or pinat dot I, and tak-ingthe radius fromAswingcurvetowards B, but restondot ondiagonal; move pencil to Band swing up,meetingon diagonal; swing toBI in same way thenfromAI upward; this gives you outlines of brimandheadsize. (See Fig. 4.) Fig. 3 gives the lines andpoints ofradius for a longor boat shaped brim. I.1./.../F1G. 4For a conical crown (a crown the tip of which issmaller than the headsize), draw a circle 'tClithiu theheadline, the middle spacerepresenting the topof crown.11'fill:: .\RTOF \-Vhen the crO\Y11 tip is small, of course there is awider space betwcen the twocircles, than ifthe differ-ence is slight. and if the crown tip is larger. as in a"Bell" or "Tam" crown: the second circle is dra\\-noutsidetheheadline. (See Figs. 4and5.)\rhenthespace bctween the twocircles is less thanone-half inch. the straight lines running down will belonger thanif the space excccds thatmeasurement. Thereasonis that whenthe slopebetweentopofcrown andheadlinc isgreat. ashorter radiusis requiredto get thecircleandthemore nearly alikethe twomeasurementsare. thelarger will he the circumferenceofcircle fromwhich thesection is taken, and the further frombrimmust bethe lowest curve.ToDraft aConical CrownToget a conical crown drawa secondcircle withinthe headline. Rule offa second square belowand ad-joiningthcupper onc andof the samedimensions; findmiddle of lowest line. andextend line :\ I a littlebelowthis point, callingit Az. upward fromlowestline of squareonAzthe depthof crown. say 3inches.anddot, measure the samc fromlowcst line of squareupon side lincs. dot and rule across. call this line D.fromedgeofbrimCandC, to dots6and 5.and markoff the same measures fr0111 side lines alonglowest line of square towards center and dot; canthesepoints Eand EI. l'vlcasure alongline Ctoinnercircle, anddot offsamcmeasure alolIglineDfromsidelinesof lower square: nowfromdots 5and6 rule linesdown todotsEandEI onlowest line ofsecondsquare.and frominner circle all line Crule down to allline D, ruleobliquelinesfrol11 ATtoEandFwhichwill giveyou slopeof crOIVIl. (See T'ig. 4.)Ruleoffasmall square (depthofcroIVIl) outsidethelargesquare. usinglowest andsidelinesof square. andlineD, andaddanother perpendicular line. FromdotA rruleadiagonal lincwhichwill cutthroughtheloweroutsidecorners ofthcsesquares; this linegives; youthe12THEAUT OF Ivl1LLlKEUYslopeofcrownat join; call theselinesGanci Gl. Nowset compass or pin at AI, take radius fromEar El,and swillgcurve soit touches both these points, comesa little below lowest line of square at Az, and runsthrough Ganti Gl. (See Fig. 4.) Fromthis pointmcasure up on the diagonal line the depth of crownand mark 7and8; keep thepinat A1 and swing theupper curve by takingradius to F and curvinga littlebelowline Din themiddleon lineA2, endingon eachsideat dots 7and8.v\fhcn a wider radius is indicated, lines Gand GIlllust beswungout further, andthe line taken frol11 adiffercnt point, dots I or 2 or even higher. The re-spective l 1 1 C a S l l r c ~ of heacl andtiplincs will indicatethedifference to be allowedinthe two lines of side ofcrOW11.To Draft a ShallowWide Top CrownIn Fig. 5 we lise the same brim with a wiele top"Bell" crown, 2 inches high; thcrefore, we make thesecondcircleolltsidetheheadlille, thenproceedthesamcas inFig. -+; but as it is for alower, wider crOWI1, wemust findawiderraelius, whicll mcansalongcrdistancefromthepointwherewesct thcpill tothepcncil, whichlllUSt touchthegiven poillt of radius.Of course, any onc who has studied geometry willknowhowto find the corrcspondingarc to any givencircle; but no one expects milliners to take degrees ingeometry, so we will say the quickest way to find thesideslope of crown is to stickthepin on line Azandmeasuretoeithersidehalf thecircumferenceof largercrown line and dot; then on line Dfrol11 A2 measuretoeithersidethesmaller crownline; if thesedotscomebeyond the smallsquare oneither side. addanothersmallsquareof the samesize, andlaythe ruler soit exactlycuts through the two dots: where thesediagonal linesmeet intheuppersquarewill be thepoint toplaceyourpin to get the radius, and this will be fromthe samepoints in lower square a", first example. (See Fig. 5.)13THEARTOF lVIrLLINERYM. (,FIG. 5PlainSailor CrownOf course, a perfectly roundcrown is easytodo, asthepinissetintheexact middle, theradius taken frol11the required edge of circle, ancI the pencil or compassswunground.Everycurve :3thesectionof acircle, largeor small., Takeacart-wheel for instance; divide therimintosixI equal parts; youwill requirearadiusrepresentedbythemeasurefromaxletoedgetoget thissectioncorrectly.just as muchasif yOll had todrawtheentire wheel.Instruments both for curves and rectangles can bebought, which simplify this work con"iderably.Bandeaux that are tobe shaped like the sides ofcrowns are drafted.. and Cl1t in the same way.14THEART OF ~ h L L I K E R YInFig. 6thevariouspoints toplacecompass and getradiusfor an eccentric brim are shown, the brim narrowononesideanddeepwithupwardcurveontheother.FIn6SimplerMethodofDraftingFramesPattern paper, pencil, measuring tape, ruler, andscissors aTCall that youneed for this.Togetthesquare, whichistobe ofthelargest diam-eter of hat as before directed, markoff onthe paperand cut out. Fold over evenly each way to make asquare one-quarter the size of opensquare (See Fig.7); foldover intoathree-corneredwedge, sothatthecut edgescometogether; foldoveragain, sothepaperis along, narrow, arrow-shapedwedge, withfinepoint.(See Fig. 8). Measure fromthe point C, up the shortestsidetoH, and, measuringupthelongersidetoA, dottosamemeasureas shortside;measurealsothesameupexact middle (a ruled line ensures accuracy), amicut offtopof wedge inacurve fromBtoAthroughcentral dot. Thisgives youa perfectround ofanysIzerequired, andthecreasedlinesarereadyforvariationsif desired. (See Figs. 8-9.)15Do nut unfold the paper. howeverlbut cut out theheadline. thus: If the headsize is tobe 17 inches. thediameter of a roundhcadsize will be 50inches, there-fore measureItalf this: i. e., 2)4 inches frompoint C uponeach sideof wedge, alsoon middle line, and makeF1G. 7dots D. E, F; cut oA' the tip in a curve through 'this gives you the headsizc, and topof crowlI. ifthis is to be the same size as headline; and a straight::.tripwill be required for sideof crown. (See Fig. g.)1f youwantabrimwider infront thanat back, OpCIlthe paper after havingellt the edge circle; measure at16TilEARTOF ~ I I L L I X E R YFIG. 9middleline frol11 edge down for widthof front brim,andfromoppositeedgefor widthofbackbrim(takingcare, however, to leave a goodproporitionforthehead-size) ; foldoversothesetwomarks comee.-roctlyove,.FIG. 1017FIG. I ITHEART OF l\1:rLLIKE1{Ycachother (SeeFig. 10). The foldedlinegives us thenew center ofheadsize.Nowfold the paper over once more (See Fig. Il),andmeasurefromC to E; mark off same measurefromC to D, less a quarte1' 'inch} to get the ellipse. ~ M o r e maybedeductedifamoredecidedoval is desired. Foldthesquare againto wedge shape, and measure up thefoldededge, halfdiameter ofhead, less one-eighth, thus divid-ing the difference betweenthe perpendicularanddiag-onal measures, andcut acurvethroughthe three dots(SeeFig. II). Thepatternopen, with roundheadlineandoval dottedline, isshowninFig. 12.FIG. 12Anychangeinthebrim, suchas extradepthononeside, isobtainedbyplacingthe flat patternonalargersquare of paper and drawing on the desired curves;thencutting out perfectpattern (seeFig. 6) orcuttingoff where a narrower brimis desired.SlopingCrownsForaslopingsidecrown, cut acircle fromasquareof paperfour to six times the size of that usedforbrim;18THEARTOF:\lILLJ"ERYthe deeper the slope the smaller the square needed.Foldandcut roundas forbrim; thenmeasurerequireddepthof crownfromtheedge in, at eachsideandthe~,\Il ~S');I' C\'C> I,d; "C/.l.c:> ro>_: - ~,,,FIG. 13middle; markandcut out (Fig. 13). Fromthis circlemeasure off yourexacthead circumference, halftoeachside of the diagonal line funning fromAtoB: Thediagramshows a quartersection of entire square, whichwill befoundmorepractical thantheentiresquare, andfromthis the half patterncanbecut; alongthe innercirclemeasureoffanddotmeasure of tip, if conical; if"Bell," reverse the measurements, and cut off sectioninlinewithsquare.Itwill beeasilyseenthat suchsections canbecutaswideor Ilarrowas desired, anda fewexperimentswillshowthepupil theright relation of crowns tobrimsandheadsizes.EccentricFramesThe eccentric curves, ripples. and contractions ofshapes are obtainedbyeithergores let inortakenout.or slashes,whicharelappedandsewn overmore orlesstoget theshapedesired; foradeeplyturneduptlpoke"19TilE.\RTOF :\I1LLIXERYthehcadsizc is cut 2larger than required, andawedgeJ.0inchesacrosswidc:-itpart at headline istaken;)tlt of the front, the IIVOedges lapped and stitched. T4-){USI-IRO(DI SII.\PEFig. 14shows a flat brim, slashed, lapped and sewninlo amushroomshape;the hcadsizeissmall, fitted,dtha deepbandeau; the wide crown has a sligh/I)I shapcJside band. The same brimreversed makes a saucer-brimsailor. Thecrown maybe"Bell" or plain. TheFIG. T5FLAT PATTEHN ClI" )1SHAPE2QTHEAnTOFbrimis ISinches diameter, the widest part, 50inches.coming ontheleft, raisedherebya3-inchbandeau;thenarrowest part of brim comes at the right back-4inches-wherethebandeaudecreasesto1,0inches. Thewidecrown, withslightlyslopingside, is set onbeyondthe headline. Theslashes in the brimare lapped onlyjust enoughtoholdthestitches, at backandleft atriflemorctogiveamoredecidedcurve.The edgewire, andhvoadditional circularwires, holdtheslitsfirm.Fig. ] 5shows the flat pattern slashed for shaping.Fig. 16 is a brim cut fro111 same size square, butdifferently shaped. The c1eepest part of brim-50inches-comes at the left back. the narrowest part-37Sinches-ontheright near the front. leavinga head-sizeof5inches diameter, less Y2 an inch fromside toside. The crown is 3inches high, thetip larger thanFIG. 16the head, slightly shaped side band, which is cut astraight strip in two parts and lapped toshape back front. Fig. 17ShO"5the flat pattern.21THEART OF l\I1LLlNERYToMakeBuckramFramesFIG. 17FLATPATTERNOFTURNED-UPSHAPENever aUo'LV tU1'IIillgs on pafternsJ' lay smoothly onbuckram, sparterieor cape net, pin firmly andcut out,)Jo edge turnings are allowed. but three-quarters ofan inch is allowedat the head; this is snippedat one-inchintervals to thehead line; and a half inch is al-lowedat eachend of the sidecrown for lapping, TheFIG, 1822THEART OF snipped margin, at head line is turned up inside thecrown.In cutting cape net. a firmer edge is obtained b\'allowing just enough margin to turn over all edgewires, and backstitching (long) these in, instead ofbutton-hole-sewing themon asin buckramframes.vVire around edge of brimwith strongwire, set onFIG. '9the edge with hblanket" stitch, stitches one-eighth ofan inch long, the tiecomingon thewire; wire aroundthe headline flat, with one-quarter inch long loopstitches (Fig. 19). Lapandsewside crown, and wireroundbothedgessameasbrim; set onandsewinplacewith half-inch long button-hole stitches, unless thecrowncomesmuchover thebrim; thenattachat six oreight places only. Lastsewtip onside crown, withone-23TilEART OF "fILLI"ERYeighth inchbutton-hole ";titchc5i, takingcare, if oval, toget thisexactlytobackand front.Incapenet framesa quarter inch should be allowedaround the tip; thisto be turneddown andsewn flatunder top wireof sidecrown; it will fit better if themargin is snipped.\Vide brims will needextra wires, rings and bracesto keep themfirm.24THEARTOF MILLINERYLESSONIIMAKINGWIRE FRAMESWIREframes are made entirelyby measurements,and, the methodandliseof toolsoncemastered,arc realh' easier tomake thanbuckramframes.If. however, t h ~ milliner designs a new shape, it isbest to do so in paper, or buckram; then fromthismake the wire frame. If the frame is made experi-mentally, theedge wire shouldbelightlytied, the crosswiresnot clippedpermanentlytight, nor theother ringstied on finished with thetie wire, sothat all maybeadjusted, then whenlines and formare right all fasten-ingsarc securedilllmovably.A nFIG. ICUTTERSIlA"PLIERSHgUTheToolsThe tools necessary for making \"ire frames are apair of small wire cutters. and a small pair of pliers.costing respectively40 cents ancl J 5cents. There is atool that combines thetwo, but it is not practical formillinery, as the points are necessarily wider andthicker, and do not lay hold of the fine wires, nor25THEART OF l\1rLLINERYbend intricate angles as neatly as the finer points ofthe truepliers. (Fig. I, Cutters, A; Pliers, E.)Anarrowtape-measure, having inches and }Bths onone sideand 1/16 of the inch on the other; avoidthosethat unroll froma case, the simple tailors' tapeis best. Of wire, one needs for a nice framefourdif-ferent kinds. Aringofthicklycoverededgewire; thisis a strong wire covered first with layers of cottonthread, running along the wire, over which is spun acovering of silk floss. (The same kind of wire, butsofter, isusedto edge hats, and rUIl into"cordings.")The round rings ofthe frame should be of a heaviernumber ofwire than the brace wires, the eight wiresthat formthespokesofthe wheel, all crossing in thecenter of top of crown, as these have to be severaltimes bent. Thenthere is the.Itie" wire, whichcomeslike coarse threadonaspool; all thesearesilkcovered.But there are cottonand even paper covered wires,anduncoveredtie wire, which is used for the cheapestframes, and is good enough for practice.Itis well for thebeginner tousethe tools onbits ofwire, cutting, turning over, and clipping the turnstight, alsotyingcrossed wires withthe tie wire cut inI -inch lengths; the tie Illust CfOSS the wires twice;then thetwolittlecndsaretwistedtogether andturnedunder.Construction of FramesThe nUlllber of round wires in a frame varies ac-cordingtothesizeand shape; thereisalways thc edgeand head wire; then if crown and brimare in one.there isthe crown wire; if thecrownis deep, there isa second wire between head and crown; if the brimiswidetheremaybetwomore rounel wiresbetweenedgeand head; in a mediumsize, one is enough, and in anarrowbrimnone extra is needed. Oftenone side ofa frame is much deeper than the rest of thebrim; inthat caseoneor even twopart wires areput in. (Fig.2.) This is alsooften necessary in toque and bonnet26THEARTOFFIG. 2-FRAME SHOWIl':G BRIMANDCROWN. EXTRA BRACE IN FLUTEAND EXTRA PART RI NG WIRE

\FIG. 3. CROSSWIRESTIEDINPOSITION.TOP OF CROWN ';TIED" ON,SHOWING OF WIRE WITH PLIERS FOR SIDEOF CROWN27THE.\WI' OF ).IrLLlXERYframes, where one p3rt projects considenbly morethantherest of the structure: the part wiresbeing se-cured either to the head wire or two of the bracewires. These wires are called fillers.There are 'always eight cross wires. and frequentlyoneor twoextraareput in if thereare wide flares. asinFig. 2; these, ho\\cver. run only fromedgeto head\,"ire. The first two cross wires are laid across eachother in a perfect cross thus: +: theothers are laidacross these diagonally. andshouldbe so tied in themiddle that they form the spokes of a wheel, with(usually) even sections between. The lengthsof thespokes, however. on eachsideof the center. dependonthemeasurements of brim. back, front. right side, leftside, depth of Cr0\V11, width of top of crown, all ofwhich must be calculated and me3suredout. (Fig. 3.)MeasuringandCuttingWiresLet the novicebegin by copying a frame, or makinga wire frameO\'era buckrammodel. Takethe follow-1l1g measures:Around edge.Around head size. (The twokey measures.)Aroundtopedgeof crO\\"I1.Aroundother circular wires.Cross wires. Front toback. entire measure includ-ingcrown. if this is in one with brim.Cross wires. Side toside, same.Cross wires. Diagonal wires, same.\Vidthof brim. Front, edgetohead wire.Width of brim. Back. edgeto head wire.\Vidthof brim. Sides, edge to head wire.\"lidthofbrim. Diagonals, edge to head wire.Each wire separately. set down on paper for refer-cnce. Add measures of:Depth of crown: if this is deeper at anyone placecarefully note it down, together with the cross wire'