Textured Pocket Wrap

YarnBernat® Softee Chunk Tweeds™, 300 g/10.5 oz, 298 m/316 ydsA - Blue Tweed - 2 BallsB - Midnight White - 2 BallsC - True Gray Tweed - 1 Ball

Hook• 8 mm / L Hook• 4.5mm / 7 Hook

Gauge• 8 sc and 9 rows = 4” [10 cm]

Measurement• 72” long x 20” wide. • From top down, it is 36”• Pockets can be moved to suit your arm length.

AbbreviationsBeg - BeginningCh - ChainDc - Double crochetDcfp - Double Crochet Front PostDtr - Double TrebleRep - RepeatRS - Right sideSc - Single crochetSc2tog - Single crochet 2 togetherSk - SkipSp - SpaceSt - Stitch

Design ConsiderationDesign has arrow stitching that requires multiples of 4. For a starting chain for changing sizes, it needs multiples of 4 + 3 to keep the balance.

The wrap also has Sc, Ch 1 sps stitches aka the moss stitch. The moss stitch is known to compress. It’s why in one row, we are adding more stitches after the arrow sec-tion is done and when we return back to the arrow stitching

near the end, we have to decrease.This is a chunky weight project that crochets pretty quickly.

This is the non-hooded version what has stitch counts changed at the beginning of the pattern.

Notes

• Multiples 4 + 3• Ch 2 at the beginning for row doesn’t count as st.• Ch 3 at the beginning of row counts as st.• Stitch counts in the moss stitch have the ch 1 sps as

included.• Even number rows like 2, 4, 6 and etc are right side

(RS) of main wrap itself.

Final Revision

If you find a flaw in this design, usually this goes to our testing team first but this pattern is so new. I am putting out in public. You can email me corrections to:

inquiry@thecrochetcrowd.com

Instructions

©2020 The Crochet Crowd

Designed By: Michael Sellick

1

With A, ch 155. (Multiple of 4 + 3)

1st row: (WS) 1 sc 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end of row. Break. Turn. 154 sts.

2nd row: (RS) With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 3. Sk first st. *Work-ing in back loops only. 1 dc in each to end of row. Break. Turn. 154 sts.

3rd row: With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 2. 1 hdc in first dc. 1 dcfp around each st to last dc. 1 hdc in last dc. Turn. 154 sts.

Arrow Stitching for rows 4 and 5.

4th row: Ch 3. *Sk next 3 sts. 1 dtr in next st. Working behind last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped sts. Rep from * to last hdc. 1 dc in last hdc. Turn. 154 sts.

5th row: Ch 3. *Sk next 3 dc. 1 dtr in next dtr. Working in front of last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped dc. Rep from * to last st. 1 dc in last sts. Turn. 154 sts.

6th row: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Break. Turn. 154 sts.

2

Moss Stitching Section Begins

This section, we need to increase the stitches to deal with stitch tension. At the end of the section, we will decrease again.

7th row: With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 1, *1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st. Rep from * across to end of row to last 19 sts before end. 1 sc in last 18 sts. 165 sts. Turn. Cheating tip, just ensure it’s an odd number across before moving on.

Set Up Row - 8th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *Ch 1. Skip next st. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 165 sts.

9th row: C h 1. 1 sc in first sc. *Ch 1. Sk next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn. 165 sts.

10th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Skip next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sts. 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in last sc. Turn. 165 sts.

11th - 18th rows: Rep 9th and 10th rows.

19th: Rep 9th rows. Break.

20th - 22nd rows: With C, rep rows 10th and 9th - twice. Break at the end of 22nd row. Notice the order is repeating row 10 and then row 9 in that order.

23rd row: With B, rep 10th row.

24th - 35th rows: With B, rep rows 9th - 10th.

36th row: Rep 9th row. 165 sts.

In the next row, we are doing single crochet 2 together. We will be using all sc sts and ch 1 sps. Sc2tog will use a sc and ch 1. We have to ensure we get to a number that is divisible by 4 with 1 extra stitch on the edges.

37th row: Ch 1, 1 sc in next 23 sts, sc2tog. *1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc2tog in next st. Rep from * across to end of row to last 9 sts before end. 1 sc in last 8 sts. 154 sts. Break. Turn. Cheating tip, this will give you 38 sets of 4, plus 1 st for each edge.

Final Arrow Stitching Edging Begins

38th row: (RS) With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Turn. 154 sts.

39th row: Ch 3. *Skip next 3 dc. 1 dtr in next dc. Working in front of last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped dc. Rep from * to last st. 1 dc in last sts. Turn. 154 sts.

40th row: Ch 3. *Skip next 3 sts. 1 dtr in next st. Working be-hind last dtr, 1 dc in each of 3 skipped sts. Rep from * to last hdc. 1 dc in last dc. Turn. 154 sts.

41st row: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row. Break. Turn. 154 sts.

42nd row: With B, attach to 1st st. Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end of row. Break. Turn. 154 sts.

43rd row: With A, attach to 1st st. Ch 2, 1 hdc in same beg st. 1 dcfp in each st to 2nd last st. 1 hdc in final st. Fasten off.

3

Pockets - Make 2

With C, ch 16.

1st row: RS Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end of chain. Mark side with stitch marker and leave on until you sew the pocket onto the wrap. Turn. 15 sts.

2nd row: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st to 2nd last st. 2 sc in last st. Turn. 17 sts.

3rd - 5th rows: Rep 2nd row. 23 sts at the end of 5th row.

6th row: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st across. Turn.

Rep 6th row until pocket measures approx 6” tall, ending on right side.

Next row: Ch 1, sc2tog, 1 sc in each st across to 3rd last st. 1 sc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn.

Rep next row until 3 more times. Fasten off.

Pocket Border: (RS) With A, attach to the top of the last st from the previous instructions. Ch 1, 1 sc evenly spaces around the pocket. Join with sl st to beg sc, Fasten off.

Surface Overlay: Using B, focus on 2nd st gap space away from edge. Surface overlay around. Tips for surface overlay can be found on our YouTube Channel. Watch carefully how to end Surface Overlay for best results.

The back of the wrap should be nice and clean to not see the sewing of the pockets.

Sewing Pockets to Wrap

You can change the position of the pockets for your own arm length. Mine are sewn two finger thicknesses away from the edge of the wrap.

Pockets were sewn so just the flat edge of the pocket wasn’t sewn to allow your hands to sink in and anything inside cannot easily fall out.

When sewing, don’t go through the entire wrap. Just use the top surface yarn strands on wrap. The bottom picture below is the back of the wrap and you don’t see any evidence of pockets being sewn on.