textured hair care - schulke-us.com

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Textured Hair Care Formulation Booklet

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Page 1: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Textured Hair CareFormulation Booklet

Page 2: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

CURLY & PROUD OF IT2

Page 3: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

The Natural Hair Movement...

...originated in the USA during the 2000s is focused on encouraging & empowering women with African ancestry to:

• be self-confident & proud of their roots• embrace an Afrocentric beauty aesthetic• embrace their natural hair as part of their own identity• see the beauty inherent in natural hair• stop using harsh hair relaxer chemicals• celebrate & enjoy their natural hair texture

CURLY & PROUD OF IT

I’M A QUEEN

CROWNED IN MY

NATURAL CURLS

I MY AFRO

BACKTO THE ROOTS

#

“I WEAR MY HAIR IN AN AFRO BECAUSE I THINK IT EXPRESSES EXACTLY WHO I AM AND EXACTLY WHERE I COME FROM”

YES, I HAVE CURLY HAIR -

AND NO, I DON’T

WISH IT WAS

STRAIGHT

CURLY, KINKY, CUTE

strongnatural

charmingfashionablesmartgiftedconfidentcute

creative

classy fearlessQueenlovecurly

intelligent

powerfu

lelegantamazing

sexy

melanin

beautif

ulkinky

star

nice

3

Page 4: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

CHEAP HAIR

IS NOTNICE

9051

NICE HAIR IS NOTCHEAP

YOUR HAIR IS OF YOUR SELFIE

IT’S OK TO

BE ALITTLE

OBSESSEDWITH YOUR HAIR

INVEST IN YOUR HAIR, IT IS THE CROWN YOU NEVER TAKE OFF

OF BLACK WOMEN IN THE US SAY THEIR

CURRENT HAIRSTYLE MAKES THEM FEEL BEAUTIFUL *

*Source: „Naturally confident“, Mintel, October 2018

Textured Hair Care Attitude

%

%

4

Page 5: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

THE CURLIER THE HAIR IS...

• higher the density (voluminous)

• finer, thinner & more fragile the hair

• higher the porosity due to high

discontinuity in the cuticle layer

• lower the sebum migration from

scalp to the tips

• dryer the hair

• more prone to damage & breakage

• slower it grows (< 0.9 cm a month)

• higher the maintenance

• gentle treatment

• nurture for the dry scalp

• deep moisture & hydration

• dryness & frizz reduction

• repair & damage control

• edge control

• protection against

environment & the sun

Hair Textures DefinedH

AIR

TY

PE

S

curly coily kinky

1

2a

2b

2c

3a

3b

3c

4a

4b

4c

Characteristics of textured hair. The curlier the hair, the...

Textured hair care especially requires...

3a 3c 4b

3b 4a 4c

5

Page 6: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Building a good regimen is the key to healthy textured hair. The goal is to increase hair’s moisture, while decreasing damage & breakage.

Textured Hair Care Regimen & Facts

*Source: „The holy grail of textured hair care“, Global Cosmetic Industry, March 2018

Washing a maximum of every 1-2 weeks to protect fragile hair

Co-Washing for gentle conditioning and cleaning together

Conditioning after every wash to add more moisture to the hair

Use multiple products to define curls and enhance shine

BASIC CARE

Hair masks, hair lotion to hydrate and strengthen the hair

Spray to soothe and moisturize the scalp

TREATMENT

STYLING

3043

CONSUMERS SPEND THE MOST IN CONDITIONING AND STYLING PRODUCTS

Women with

waves, curls

and coils purchase more

products compared

to their naturally straight-

haired peers

ARE STILL TRYING

TO FIND A HOLY

GRAIL PRODUCT WHO HAVE FOUND THEIR

HOLY GRAIL PRODUCTS STILL CONTINUE TO BUY OTHER PRODUCTS IN THE HOPE OF FINDING THE NEXT BEST THING*

%

%

6

Page 7: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Formulations

Basic Care

Treatment

Styling

Co-Washing

Conditioning

Skip the ‘poo Co Wash

Rinse-off Conditioner for Damaged Hair

Seriously Soft Conditioner

HR - 19-0138

HR - 19-0139

HR - 19-0140

Rinse-off Mask

Lotion

Spray

Multicultural Hair Mask for Damage Treatment & Protection

Strengthening Hair Lotion

Scalp Soothing Spray

HR - 19-0141

HL - 19-0142

HL - 19-0143

Butter

Wax (Ringing Gel)

Mist

Texture Defining Butter

Lock and Twist Styling Wax

Style Locked Setting Mist

HL - 19-0144

HL - 19-0145

HL - 19-0146

7

Page 8: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

HAIR TYPESProject Design: Products

Products INCI Declaration Suitable pH

euxyl® PE 9010

euxyl® K 900

euxyl® K 940

euxyl® K 703

euxyl® K 720

sensiva® PA 40

sensiva® SC 10

< 12

< 12

< 12

< 6

< 5.5

< 12

< 12

Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin*

Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin*, Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin*, Tocopherol

Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid

Propylene Glycol, Benzoic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin*

*stabilized with synthetic alpha-Tocopherol

8

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- free of growth ca. < 102 cfu/ml

+ light growth ca. 102 cfu/ml

++ moderate growth ca. 103 cfu/ml

+++ heavy growth ca. 104 cfu/ml

++++ massive growth ca. 105 cfu/ml

C completely overgrown ca. 106 cfu/ml

2d 7d 14d 28d

A ≤ +++ ≤ ++ – n.i.

B – – ≤ ++ n.i.

A n.d. n.d. ≤ ++ n.i.

B n.d. n.d. +++ n.i.

Agar with neutralizer

Project Design: Challenge Test CosPET

S. aureusS. epidermidisP. aeruginosa

P. putidaB. cepacia

E. coliP. gergoviae

K. pneumoniae

Bacteria: 2, 7, 14, 28d

Fungi: 14, 28d

C. albicansA. brasiliensis

20 g areinoculatedwith 0.2 ml leading to

105-106 CFU/g

Evaluation Time Points

Bacteria Fungi

Semi-Quantitative Evaluation

n.i. - no increasen.d. - not determined

Germ ReductionCriteria

Bacteria

Fungi

9

Page 10: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

NATURALLY BEAUTIFUL10

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NATURALLY BEAUTIFUL

Basic Care

HAIR WASH: Due to the fragile hair structure of textured hair, it should not be washed every day. In order to preserve the natural oils within the hair, as well as to prevent excessive dryness, textured hair should only be washed every 1-2 weeks.

CO-WASHING: Textured hair should be washed with conditioner instead of using shampoo, since frequent use of shampoos may be too harsh for textured hair. Co-washing is a gentle way to condition and clean in one step - great for a dry scalp, makes hair softer and less prone to breakage, defines curls more.

CONDITIONING: Applying a conditioner after every hair wash prevents hair breakage by infusing the textured hair with intense conditioning and moisturizing ingredients. It lubricates the hair and makes it easier to untangle.

11

Page 12: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

D

Water

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Citric Acid

Dehyquart® Guar HP2)

Citric Acid 50% aq. solution

Conditioning agent

pH adjuster

ad 100

0.20

0.02

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Cyperus Esculentus Root Oil

Lanette® O2)

Lanette® 162)

Lipofructyl™ Cyperus LS 98922)

Consistency agent

Consistency agent

Active

4.00

2.00

1.00

Decyl Glucoside

Citric Acid

Dicaprylyl Ether (&) Decyl Glucoside (&) Glyceryl Oleate

Plantaren® 2000 N UP2)

Citric Acid 50% aq. solution

Plantasil® Micro2)

Surfactant

pH adjuster

Conditioning agent

5.00

0.25

1.00

Polyquaternium-37 (&) Dicaprylyl Carbonate (&) Lauryl Glucoside

Parfum

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Cosmedia® Triple C2)

Fragrance Coconut Water and Hibiscous3)

Rheology modifier

Fragrance

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

3.00

0.30

q.s.

Basic Care - Co-Washing

Skip the ’poo Co Wash (HR-19-0138)How to use: Apply to wet hair, massage into the scalp and distribute evenly through the ends. Rinse thoroughly.

Developed by by BASF, North America1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) BASF, 3) Custom Essence

12

Page 13: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 4.5 – – – – – A C C f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® PE 9010 4.5 – – – – – A +++ – B B

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 900 4.5 – – – – – A + + A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 703 4.5 – – – – – A + – A A

+ 0.80% euxyl® K 720 4.5 – – – – – A + + A A

Skip the ’poo Co Wash (HR-19-0138)

Skip the ’poo Co Wash

(HR-19-0138)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Basic Care - Co-Washing - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

13

Page 14: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

Water ad 100

Behentrimonium Methosulfate (&) Quaternium-87 (&) Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Stearate (&) Isostearyl Isostearate (&) Cetyl Alcohol (&) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (&) Stearic Acid

Crodazoquat™ MCC2)

Crodacol™ CS902)

DuraQuench™ IQ SA2)

Cationic emulsifier

Consistency agent

Moisturizing active

2.41

5.40

1.00

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1) Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

q.s.

Basic Care - Conditioning

Rinse-off Conditioner for Damaged Hair (HR-19-0139)How to use: Apply a generous amount after cleansing hair. Massage into the hair and leave on for 5 minutes. Rinse and style as desired.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0022)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda

14

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2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 4.6 – C C C C f ++++ +++ f f

+ 0.40% euxyl® PE 9010 4.6 – – – – – A ++++ +++ f f

+ 0.60% euxyl® PE 9010 4.6 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 900 4.6 – + + – – A +++ + B B

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 900 4.6 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 703 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 720 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® PA 40 4.6 – – – – – A + – A A

+ 1.00% sensiva® SC 10 4.6 – – – – – A ++ + A A

Rinse-off Conditioner for Damaged Hair (HR-19-0139)

Rinse-off Conditioner for Damaged

Hair (HR-19-0139)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Basic Care - Conditioning - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

15

Page 16: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

Water ad 100

Quaternium-91 (&) Cetrimonium Methosulfate (&) Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol (&) Cetyl Alcohol (&) Stearalkonium Chloride (&) PEG-20 Stearate

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Crodazosoft™ DBQ2)

Conditioner Base™2)

Seatons Castor Oil3)

Cationic emulsifier

Cationic emulsifier

Emollient

1.50

5.00

2.00

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1) Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

q.s.

Basic Care - Conditioning

Seriously soft Conditioner (HR-19-0140)How to use: Apply a generous amount after cleansing hair. Massage into the hair and leave on for 5 minutes. Rinse and style as desired.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0023)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda, 3) Seatons

16

Page 17: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 5.2 – C C C C f ++++ +++ f f

+ 0.40% euxyl® PE 9010 5.2 – + – – – A + – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 900 5.2 – +++ +++ + – B + – A B

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 900 5.2 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 703 5.0 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 720 5.0 – – – – – A + + A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® PA 40 5.2 – – – – – A + + A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® SC 10 5.2 – – – – – A – – A A

Seriously Soft Conditioner (HR-19-0140)

Seriously Soft Conditioner (HR-19-0140)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Basic Care - Conditioning - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

17

Page 18: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

CURLY, KINKY, CUTE18

Page 19: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

CURLY, KINKY, CUTE

Treatment

MOISTURE: Since textured hair is more prone to dryness, frizz and breakage, giving it plenty of tender loving care is absolutely essential. One thing textured hair definitely can’t get enough of is moisture. Therefore, it is recommended to use leave-in products, such as hair masks, for deep conditioning in order to lock in moisture and make the hair soft.

NOURISHING: Nourishing the hair and the roots with natural oils, such as shea butter, is essential to support hair growth.

SOOTHING: Using a soothing spray helps to relieve itching, irritation and a dry scalp.

19

Page 20: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

D

Water ad 100

Behentrimonium Methosulfate (&) Quaternium-87 (&) Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Crodazoquat™ MCC2)

Crodacol™ CS502)

Cropeptide™ W2)

Conditioning agent

Consistency agent

3.50

6.50

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (&) Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch (&) Water

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

Hydrating complex

q.s.

0.50

Treatment

Multicultural Hair Mask for Damage Treatment and Protection (HR-19-0141)How to use: For optimal results, apply this mask onto towel dried hair and rinse out after 2 minutes.

Developed by Croda, Brazil (DEV BR 2007)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda

20

Page 21: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 4.5 – C C C C f C C f f

+ 0.40% euxyl® PE 9010 4.5 – – – – – A ++ – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 900 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 703 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® PA 40 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% sensiva® SC 10 4.5 – – – – – A + – A A

Multicultural Hair Mask for Damage Treatment and Protection (HR-19-0141)

Rinse-off Conditioner for Damaged

Hair (HR-19-0141)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Treatment - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

21

Page 22: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

D

ad 100

0.10

2.00

2.50

0.50

Cetearyl Alcohol (&) Polysorbate 60

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polawax™ NF2)

Seatons Sweet Almond Oil3)

Seatons Shea Nut Butter3)

Seatons Coconut Oil3)

Crodacol™ CS902)

Keravis™ PE2)

ViscOptima™ SE2)

Thickener

Humectant

Hair strengthening active

Rheology modifier

4.00

5.00

3.00

7.00

1.00

q.s.

Water

Xanthan Gum

Glycerin

Water (&) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol

Sodium Polyacrylate (&) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (&) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (&) Polysorbate 20

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Treatment

Strengthening Hair Lotion (HL-19-0142)How to use: Apply product sparingly to damp or dry hair. Style hair as desired. Do not rinse out.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0100)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda, 3) Seatons, 4) CP Kelco

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

Keltrol® CG-SFT4)

Pricerine™ 90912)

22

Emulsifier

Emollient

Consistency agent

Soft and nourishing butter Emollient

Emollient

Page 23: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 5.6 – C C C C f C C f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® PE 9010 5.6 – ++++ +++ + – B +++ + B B

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 900 5.6 – ++++ +++ + – B ++++ ++ f f

+ 1.20% euxyl® K 940 5.6 – ++++ ++ + – B +++ + B B

+ 1.50% euxyl® K 940 5.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 703 5.0 – C +++ – – B ++ + A B

+ 0.80% euxyl® K 703 5.0 – +++ – – – A – – A A

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 720 5.0 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 1.20% sensiva® PA 40 5.0 – ++++ + – – B +++ ++ B B

+ 1.50% sensiva® PA 40 5.0 – + – – – A ++ – A A

Strengthening Hair Lotion (HL-19-0142)

Strengthening Hair Lotion (HL-19-0142)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Treatment - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

23

Page 24: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

D

E

ad 100

1.50

1.00

Cetyl Stearate (&) Isostearyl Isostearate (&) Cetyl Alcohol (&) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (&) Stearic Acid

Isostearyl Isostearate

Stearyl Heptanoate (&) Stearyl Caprylate

DuraQuench™ IQ SA2)

Crodamol™ ISIS2)

Crodamol™ W2)

HairSpa™4)

VisCaress™ HPD2)

Phytessence™ PurpleGinseng3)

Moisturising active

Emollient

Cooling emollient

Scalp moisturising and soothing active

Rheology modifier

1.00

3.00

2.50

q.s.

1.00

Water

Glycerin (&) Lactitol (&) Xylitol

Polyquaternium-37 (&) Hydrogenated Polydecene (&) Trideceth-6 (&) Water

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Glycerin (&) Water (&) Alcohol (&) Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Treatment

Scalp Soothing Spray (HL-19-0143)How to use: Apply directly to the scalp from the bottle and gently massage in. Do not rinse out.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0086)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda, 3) Crodarom, 4) Sederma

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

Scalp rebalancing active

24

Page 25: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 4.5 – C C C C f C C f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® PE 9010 4.5 – – – – – A ++++ ++ f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 900 4.5 – – – – – A +++ + B B

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 940 4.5 – – – – – A +++ + B B

+ 1.20% euxyl® K 940 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 1.00% sensiva® PA 40 4.5 – – – – – A +++ ++ B B

+ 1.20% sensiva® PA 40 4.5 – – – – – A + – A A

Scalp Soothing Spray (HL-19-0143)

Scalp Soothing Spray

(HL-19-0143)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Treatment - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

25

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BACK TO THE ROOTS26

Page 27: Textured Hair Care - schulke-us.com

BACK TO THE ROOTS

Styling

DEFINING CURLS AND ENHANCING SHINE: For natural curly hair to have amazing definition and softness without annoying frizz, it is advisable to use styling products, such as texture defining butter, styling wax or setting mist.

In doing so, demanding curly hair will be additionally moisturized, conditioned and detangled - simply the best foundation for natural, healthy and shiny looking hair.

27

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Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

D

ad 100

3.00

q.s.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol (&) Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Ceteareth-20

Isopropyl Myristate

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Mineral Oil

Crodacol™ CS502)

Incroquat™ BTMS-502)

Brij™ CS202)

Crodamol™ IPM2)

Seatons Coconut Oil3)

Cropure Olive Oil3)

Seatons Shea Nut Butter3)

Mineral Oil

Kerestore™ 2.04)

Pricerine™ 90912)

Consistency agent

Conditioning agent

Co-emulsifier

Emollient

Emollient

Emollient

Soft and nourishing butter

Emollient

Humectant

Biomimetic repair active

5.00

6.00

3.00

1.00

5.00

1.00

4.00

8.00

1.50

Water

Glycerin

Water (&) Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Styling

Texture Defining Butter (HL-19-0144)How to use: Apply to damp hair. Gently detangle using fingers or a wide tooth comb starting at ends and working towards scalp. Massage into the hair until fully absorbed. Style hair as desired.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0087)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda, 3) Crodarom, 4) Sederma

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

28

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2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 5.4 – C C C C f C C f f

+ 0.40% euxyl® PE 9010 5.4 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 900 5.4 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.40% euxyl® K 703 5.0 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 720 5.0 – – – – – A + – A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® PA 40 5.4 – – – – – A +++ + B B

+ 0.60% sensiva® PA 40 5.4 – – – – – A + – A A

+ 0.40% sensiva® SC 10 5.2 – – – – – A ++ – A A

Texture Defining Butter (HL-19-0144)

Texture Defining Butter (HL-19-0144)

Evaluation

BacteriapH Sterility

Control

Styling - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

Assess-mentFungi

29

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Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Ceteareth-25

Dimethicone

Cithrol™ PG32IS2)

Brij™ CS252)

Xiameter™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 cSt3)

Mirustyle™ MFP PE2)

Pricerine™ 90912)

Emulsifier

Emulsifier

Emollient

Styling active

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

Humectant

Water

Glycerin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Styling

Lock and Twist Styling Wax (HL-19-0145)How to use: Apply to damp hair. Gently detangle using fingers or a wide tooth comb starting at ends and working towards scalp. Massage into the hair until fully absorbed. Style hair as desired.

Developed by Croda, South Africa (ZA-0084)1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) Croda, 3) Dow Corning

ad 100

15.00

5.00

q.s.

2.50

27.50

14.20

30

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2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 5.6 – ++++ – – – B C C f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 703 4.8 – + – – – A – – A A

Lock and Twist Styling Wax (HL-19-0145)

Styling - CosPET results

Lock and Twist Styling Wax

(HL-19-0145)

Assess-mentBacteria Fungi

pH SterilityControl

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

Evaluation

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Phase INCI Name Trade Name Function % w/w

A

B

C

Water

Polyquaternium-11

Panthenol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (&) PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (&) PEG/PPG-120/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate (&) Glycerin

Polyquaternium-16

Luviquat® PQ 11 AT 12)

D-Panthenol 75 W2)

Plantasil® 4V2)

Luviquat® Excellence2)

Conditioning agent

Moisturising active

Conditioning agent

Conditioning agent

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer

ad 100

2.50

0.50

2.00

1.00

q.s.

0.30

2.00

Fragrance Black Orchid3)

Eumulgin® SML 202)

Fragrance

Solubiliser

Perfume

Polysorbate 20

Preservative/Antimicrobial Stabilizer1)

Styling

Style-Locked Setting Mist (HL-19-0146)How to use: Apply to clean, conditioned, damp hair moderately. Fully coat the hair and comb through to ends for complete protection.

Developed by BASF, North America1) Schülke & Mayr GmbH, 2) BASF, 3) Carrubba

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2d 7d 14d 28d Assessment 14d 28d Assessment

unpreserved 4.5 – C C C C f C C f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® PE 9010 4.5 – – – – – A C ++++ f f

+ 1.00% euxyl® K 900 4.5 – – – – – A +++ + B B

+ 1.20% euxyl® K 940 4.5 – – – – – A +++ + B B

+ 1.50% euxyl® K 940 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.60% euxyl® K 703 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 0.80% euxyl® K 720 4.5 – – – – – A ++ ++ A A

+ 1.50% sensiva® PA 40 4.5 – – – – – A – – A A

+ 1.50% sensiva® SC 10 4.5 – – – – – A ++ – A A

Style-Locked Setting Mist (HL-19-0146)

Style-Locked Setting Mist (HL-19-0146)

Assess-ment

Evaluation

Bacteria FungipH Sterility

Control

Styling - CosPET results

Assessmentf = failedA = pass criteria AB = pass criteria B

– = free of microbial growth+ = slight growth++ = moderate growth

+++ = heavy growth++++ = massive growthC = completely overgrown

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Facts

Focus is on conditioning and styling

Conditioning agents (quats) contribute to antimicrobial protection• easier preservation• most tested blends are suitable

pH of formulations mainly 4 - 5.5 • high activity of organic acids• euxyl® K 703 , euxyl® K 720

Challenging formulations• higher concentration of aromatic alcohols necessary• euxyl® K 940

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DisclaimerThe information in this publication is presented in good faith and is believed to be accurate. No representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. This booklet is provided gratis and for your guidance only. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend to make tests to determine the suitability of a product for the particular purpose prior to use. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty of any kind, either express or implied, including warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose are made regarding products described or designs or that data or information may be used without infringing the intellectual property rights of others. In no case shall the descriptions, information, data or designs provided be considered a part of our terms and conditions of sale.

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Schülke&Mayr GmbH22840 Norderstedt | GermanyPhone | Fax +49 40 521 00- 0 | -244www.schuelke.com | [email protected]

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schülke worldwide:

Our recommendations regarding our products are based on in-depth scienti�c testing in our Research Department. They are given in good faith, but no liability can be derived from them. It is the responsibility of the �nal product manufacturer to assure that claims made for the �nal product are in conformance with all applicable local laws. In other respects our Conditions of Sale and Supply apply.

Certi�ed acc. to DIN EN ISO 14001

This information is not automatically updated.Last updated 02.21

ChinaSchülke Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.Shanghai 200041Phone +86 -21-62 17 29 95Fax +86 -21-62 17 29 [email protected]

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