textiles, patterns, and equipment unit 7. section 12-1 understanding fabrics and patterns

TEXTILES, PATTERNS, AND EQUIPMENT

UN

I T 7

SECTION 12-1

UN

DER

STAN

DIN

G

FABRIC

S AN

D

PATTERN

S

OBJECTIVES

Explain how fibers, yarns, and fabrics are produced and manufactured.

Distinguish various fabric finishes.

Identify a suitable pattern and interpret information on its envelope.

Select appropriate fabric and notions for your garment.

FIBERS

Sewing enables you to create original garments that reflect your taste and style

continued

FIBERS

Sewing success involvesmaking wise fabric selectionsunderstanding fabrics is key

pairing the right fabric with the right pattern

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FIBERS

Fibers are combined to form yarn

Fiber is the

basic unit of

all fabrics

Yarns are woven

and knitted to

make fabrics

NATURAL FIBERS

Natural fibersexist in naturedo not change in composition during processing

© Richard Thornton/Shutterstock

COTTON

Cotton comes from the seedpod of the cotton plant

Cotton is the most widely used natural fiber

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COTTON

Advantages: Versatile, absorbent, comfortable in warm weather, dyes and prints well, does not build up static electricity, durable

Disadvantages: Wrinkles and shrinks easily (finishes can be applied to fabrics to prevent this)

LINEN

Flax, the fiber used to make linen, comes from the woody stalk of the flax plant

Flax is the oldest known fiber used for fabrics; the strongest of natural fibers

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LINEN

Advantages: Strong, cool, absorbent, durable, looks smooth and lustrous

Disadvantages: Wrinkles and creases easily unless treated, shines if ironed, poor resistance to mildew and perspiration

WOOL

Wool, a protein fiber, comes from the fleece of sheep

Wool is the warmest of natural fibers

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WOOL

Advantages:

Warm, absorbent, resists wrinkles, resilient, durable, creases well

Disadvantages:

Expensive, can shrink or matt, often requires dry cleaning, burns easily, attracts insects

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WOOL

Wool Products Labeling Act requires that wool in fabrics and garments must be labeled as

new or virgin wool (fibers from the coat of a living animal that is being used for the first time)

Recycled (fibers from previously made wool fabrics that were never used)

SILK

Silk is excreted from the silkworm when it builds its cocoon

Silk fibers are unraveled from the cocoons of silkworms

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SILK

Advantages: Looks and feels smooth and luxurious, absorbent, strong but lightweight, resists wrinkling and soil

Disadvantages: Expensive; weakened by detergents, perspiration, and sunlight; yellows with age; may require dry cleaning; attacked by insects; spotted by water

Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Did You Know?

• Silk is the longest natural fiber

• It takes 2,000 to 3,000 cocoons to make one pound of raw silk

© Sofia/Shutterstock

RAMIE

Ramie fibers are obtained from the stalks of China grass, which is grown in Southeast Asia

Advantages: Strong, durable, washable, lustrous, absorbent, dries quickly

MANUFACTURED FIBERS

Manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from

natural cellulose (a fibrous substance from plants)

chemicals (noncellulosic fibers); crude oil products

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MANUFACTURED FIBERS

Some manufactured fibers are

rayonacetateacrylicnylonpolyester

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MANUFACTURED FIBERS

Noncellulosic fibers are generally thermoplastic (soften at high temperatures)

Manufactured fibers have advantages and disadvantages

Rayon and lyocell are absorbentOther fibers are not absorbent and create static electricity

MICROFIBERS

A microfiber is an extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber

It has all the characteristics of its original manufactured fiber, plus a luxurious look and feel

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MICROFIBERS

Microfiber is available in

acrylicrayonnylonpolyester

YARNS

A yarn is a continuous strand made by combining staple fibers or filaments

Staple fibers are short fibersFilaments are continuous strands of fibers

Many yarns are either blends or combinations of different fibers

FABRIC CONSTRUCTION

Two common methods of fabric construction are weaving and knitting

Other methods are felting fusingbraidingknottingquilting

WOVEN FABRICS

Weaving is the process of interlacing two sets of yarns to produce a fabric

Weaving is done on machines called looms

PLAIN WEAVE

Simplest form of weaving

Made by passing a crosswise yarn alternately over and under the lengthwise yarns

Produces strong, durable fabrics such as muslin, percale, dress linen, gingham, broadcloth

TWILL WEAVE

Twill weave is formed when a crosswise yarn passes, or floats, over two or three lengthwise yarns

Produces fabrics that are strong, durable, resist wrinkles, and hide soil

Examples are denim and gabardine

SATIN WEAVE

A satin weave is made when a crosswise yarn floats over four or more yarns and under one

Characterized by their lustrous shine

Satin-weave fabrics are not durable, but tend to be smooth and slippery

KNIT FABRICS

Knitting is the process of looping yarns together to form fabrics

Knit fabricsstretch to move with, and fit, the bodyresist wrinklesmay run, snag, or ravel

OTHER FABRIC CONSTRUCTIONS

Nonwoven fabrics are made by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns

Made using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat

Have many medical and industrial uses

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Braiding is the process of interlacing three or more yarns lengthwise and diagonally to make fabrics

Used to make decorative trims, shoelaces, and rugs

Laces and nets are produced through knotting, twisting, or looping yarns

continued


Quilting is the process of stitching a layer of insulating material between two layers of fabric

FABRIC FINISHES

All fabrics go through some type of finishing process

Most finishes add certain characteristics to the fabrics that improve the appearance, feel, or performance

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FABRIC FINISHES

Antistatic

Bleaching

Brushing

Calendering

Dyeing

Permanent press

Flame retardant

Mercerization

Preshrinking

Stain resistance

Sizing

Soil release

Water repellent


Think Further

How does a permanent press finish improve the appearance of cotton and linen fabrics?

© Sergey Rusakov/Shutterstock

CHOOSING A PATTERN

Successful sewing begins with choosing the right pattern

Correct sizeFlattering styleAppropriate level of difficulty

FIGURE TYPE AND SIZE

Pattern companies have standard pattern sizes for various figure types

Figure types are based on height and general body proportions

TAKING MEASUREMENTS

Tape measure should fit snugly around the body, but not too tight

Measure over undergarments

Use tape measure parallel to the floor

Ask for help

THE PATTERN ENVELOPE

Read the information on the front and back of the envelope

The front has a drawing with variations of the basic pattern, or pattern views © Photo courtesy of McCall Pattern

Company

PATTERN BACK

Number of pattern pieces included

Written description of the garment

Fabric recommendations

Supplies needed

Drawing of the back of each garment view

Measurement chart

How much fabric to buy

Any interfacing or lining fabrics needed

CHOOSING A FABRIC

The pattern-envelope back identifies fabrics appropriate for the pattern

continued

© Rob Bouwman/Shutterstock

CHOOSING A FABRIC

Before buying fabric, considera fabric’s care requirementsyour sewing skill and the difficulties that fabrics can pose if they are too heavy, slippery, ravel easily, or have a complicated design

HOW MUCH IS NEEDED?

To determine how much fabric and interfacing to buy, refer to the back of the pattern envelope

A chart will show the amount of fabric to buy based on the fabric width and pattern size

CHOOSING NOTIONS

Buy notions when you buy your fabric

threadbuttonstrims fastenersseam bindingbias tape

continued

© Nattika/Shutterstock

CHOOSING NOTIONS

Notions needed are listed on the back of the pattern envelope

Polyester or cotton-covered polyester thread is good for working with most fabrics


Section 12-1 Review• What are the two major groups of

fibers and what raw materials are used to produce them?natural fibers exist in nature;

manufactured fibers are produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products

• What was the first manufactured fiber?rayon continued


Section 12-1 Review• How are nonwoven fabrics made?

by pressing, bonding, or interlocking fibers together using mechanical action, chemicals, and/or heat

• True or false. The type and amount of fabric required by a given pattern is given inside the pattern envelope.false—it is given on the back of the

pattern envelope

SECTION 1

2-2

SEWIN

G EQ

UIPM

ENT

OBJECTIVES

Determine the basic sewing supplies.

Describe how to operate and care for a sewing machine.

List the uses of a serger.

SMALL EQUIPMENT

Having the proper equipment and knowing how to use it will help you become a successful sewer

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SMALL EQUIPMENT

A sewing box will help you keep sewing items in one place

measuring toolscutting toolsmarking toolspins and needlespressing equipment

MEASURING TOOLS

Measuring tools are essential for taking measurements

tape measure sewing gauge

CUTTING TOOLS

Having good-quality, sharp shears and scissors is very important in sewing

dressmaker shearsscissorsrotary cutterseam ripperpinking shears

MARKING TOOLS

Marking tools are used to transfer pattern markings to fabric

tracing wheelstracing papertailor’s chalktailor’s pencil

© Farsad-Behzad Ghafarian/Shutterstock

PINS AND NEEDLES

Dressmaker pins hold garment pieces in place

Needles bring the thread through the fabric

Pincushions hold unused pins and needles

Thimbles are used when sewing by hand

PRESSING EQUIPMENT

Pressing is as important as stitching ironpressing cloth ironing boardtailor’s ham

THE SEWING MACHINE

Learning how to operate a sewing machine is easier when you understand how it works

A sewing machine secures pieces of fabric together with a lockstitch

Two threads lock in the middle of the fabric layers to make a secure stitch

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THE SEWING MACHINE

The needle carries thread from the upper part of the machine, through the fabric, to pick up the lower thread

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© gnohz/Shutterstock

**THE SEWING MACHINE**

The **presser foot** holds fabric in place

The **feed dogs** are two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward

The **thread-tension regulator **balances the tension, or pull between the upper and lower threads

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Think Further

Tension must be balanced for a proper stitch to form. What is wrong with this stitch and how can the tension be adjusted to fix it?

© Africa Studio/Shutterstock

THE SEWING MACHINE

With mechanical machines, the user dials the stitch wanted and adjusts the length, width, and tension

With computerized machines, the preferred length, width, and tension are preprogrammed


Did You Know?

• In the early 1800s, most clothing was made in the home using a needle and thread.

• The sewing machine made the mass production of clothing possible.

© Chas/Shutterstock

THREADING THE MACHINE

**Threading upper part of machine**Put thread spool on the spool pinRun thread from the spool pin through the

1. tension control**2. take-up lever **3. thread guides**4. Needle**

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THREADING THE MACHINE

Threading lower part of machine1. Thread the bobbin2. Place bobbin in bobbin case3. Bring bobbin thread up

through the needle hole before beginning to sew

TYPES OF STITCHES

Two basic types of stitches

Straight stitch ------------Zigzag stitch

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

Your owner’s manual will have step-by-step directions for cleaning your machineClean often with a soft cloth or small brush

Use the correct type of needle for your machine and fabric; replace dull or bent needles

Oil periodically

SAFETY WITH SEWING TOOLS

Sewing hazardsFires and burnsCuts and woundsElectric shockTrips and fallsFollow precautions to prevent

injuries


Section 12-2 Review• What are marking tools used for?

to transfer pattern markings from a pattern piece to the fabric

• What is the function of the needle on a sewing machine?it carries thread from the upper part

of the machine down through the fabric and picks up thread from the lower part of the machine to create a lockstitch

continued


Section 12-2 Review• What are the two basic types of

stitches that almost all sewing machines can create?straight stitch and zigzag stitch

• True or false. A serger does not take the place of a conventional sewing machine.true


Glossary• bobbin. A small metal or plastic spool

that feeds the lower thread on a sewing machine, which is needed in making a lockstitch.

• fabric. A textile product usually made by weaving or knitting yarns together.

• feed dogs. Two small rows of teeth that move the fabric forward under the presser foot.


Glossary• fiber. The basic unit of all fabrics.• filament. Continuous strand of fibers.• knitting. A process of looping yarns

together to form a fabric.


Glossary• lockstitch. A stitch made by a sewing

machine with thread coming from both the upper and lower parts of the machine and locking securely in the middle of the fabric layers being sewn.

• loopers. Serger sewing machine parts that form upper and lower stitches.


Glossary• manufactured fibers. Fibers that are

produced through chemical and technical means from natural cellulose or crude oil products.

• microfiber. An extremely thin filament of a manufactured fiber.

• natural fibers. Fibers that exist in nature.


Glossary• nonwoven fabrics. Fabrics made by

bonding or interlocking fibers together directly without using yarns.

• notions. Small items needed to construct a garment, including thread, buttons, trims, fasteners, seam binding, and bias tape.


Glossary• pattern view. A drawing on the front

of a pattern envelope showing a garment design that can be made from the pattern included in the envelope.

• presser foot. A sewing machine part that holds fabric in place as the machine stitches.


Glossary• serger. A high-speed sewing machine

that can stitch, trim, and finish seams in one simple step.

• thread-tension regulator. Two separate controls found on a sewing machine that balance tension or pull between the upper and lower threads to form the proper stitch.


Glossary• weaving. The process of interlacing

two sets of yarns to produce a fabric.• yarn. A continuous strand formed from

combined fibers.

textiles, patterns, and equipment unit 7. section 12-1 understanding fabrics and patterns

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