textile microplastics. adressing the challenges for ... · textile microplastics. adressing the...

Textile Microplastics.Adressing the Challenges for Politics, Industry and Research.

L42 Business Center & Workspaces, Rue de la Loi 42, B-1040 Bruxelles10th December 2019 | Prof. Dr. habil. Rabe | Prof. Bendt

Agenda

• Definition microfibre – microplastic• Data collection• Analysis of filter residues• Test results• Quick test development• Material and product development• Lectures and publications• Outlook and wishlist

DefinitionsMicroplastic = Particles smaller than 5 mm, but with different shapes

Problem: Frequent confusion of the terms microfiber and microplastic.

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TextileMission – Brussels | Rabe/Bendt | 10. December 2019 | Nr. 3

Definitions

Problem: The frequent confusion of the terms microfibre and microplasticcould damage the image of high performance textiles.

Microfibre = Special very fine fibre types

• fibre fineness < 1 denier• diameter 3 - 10 µm• synthetic and natural

polymers • spun as endless filaments• special properties for

performance wear


Definition of the term microplasticECHA vs. ISO/TR 2196

ANNEX XV RESTRICTION REPORT (March 2019)

• material consisting of solid polymer-containing particles, to which additives orother substances may have been added

• natural polymers that have not beenchemically modified (other than byhydrolysis) are excluded, as arepolymers that are (bio)degradable [1]

• ≥ 1% w/w of particles have alldimensions 1 nm ≤ x≤ 5 mm

• for fibres, a length of 3 nm ≤ x≤ 15 mmand length to diameter ratio of >3

Plastics in the Environment (currently being prepared)

• What is plastic? Is to be defined in ISO TC 61

• New definition microplastic particle should be aligned with SI units (1-1000 µm ? for the longest dimension )

• Historical definition < 5 mm "big" microplastic or macroplastic

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Data collection


Status Quo: > 750 household washing cycles

Leading to: > 750 filtration cycles (35‘ to 90‘ each)ca. 45.000 litres filtered through 5µm

Sums up to: > 2250 h for data collection

additionally: ca. 800 to 1.000 quick tests

Comparison of varying parameters


Microplastic emission of materials


80.95 80.95 96.21 96.21 111.47 117.52 123.07 129.12 129.12 159.69 282.45 277.010

500

1000

1500

2000

2500Fi

ber l

oss

[mg/

kg]

Density [kg/m3]

100 % PES fleece

100 % PES without

mechanical finishing

1.5 kg Drying 1.5 kg Washing 3.5 kg Drying 3.5 kg Washing

Emissions after 10 washing cycles= 50 - 600 mg/kg

vs. 50 mg/kg per washingcycle in literature.

(100 % PES-Filament, non-brushed vs. 100 % PES fleece, brushed & sheared , n=3)

Analysis of filter residues• Gravimetric analysis of filter residues (1,5 mm – 5 µm Pore Size)• REM, µFTIR (HN) and TED-GCMS (BAM) for chemical characterisation• The smaller the pore size, the more fibre material is retained by the filter cake

(preparations, lubricants, dye agglomerates…)


(5 µm Pore Size)

µFTIR analysis of a 5 µm filter (Household washing experiments)

Almost all particles consist of polyester (red)


Analysis of filter residues(5 µm Pore Size)

Polymer quantification with TED-GC/MS


99%

0%1%0%0%1%

Material 1.8 / 50µm

PET

PE

PP

PS

NR

PA 99%

0%0%0%0%1%

Material 1.8 / 5µm

PET

Acrylate

PP

PS

NR

PA

Intermediate result washing trials• Emissions after 10 washing cycles: 50-600 mg/kg• Low-priced filament goods show the same output as a fleece article with a

low emission rate• µFTIR analysis of the filters after the washing process shows an almost

complete occupation of the filter surface with PES fibers• TED-GC/MS leading to the same result• The lowest discharge of fibres into the aqueous environment occurs with a

full washing machine load and subsequent drying in the dryer


Quick test vs. household washing


80.95 96.15 96.21 111.47 117.52 123.07 282.45 284.60

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

Fibe

r los

s [m

g/kg

]

Density [kg/m3]

Quick test Household washings (n = 3 / 10 cycles each)

(based on ISO 105-C06)

International development of a standardized quick test

close cooperation with EURATEX (European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and international research organizations

• 6th CIA Technical Meeting - Brussels 22nd Oct.2019• Round Robin Test Filter Materials (10 labs worldwide)• Visit of University of Leeds @ Hochschule Niederrhein 06th Nov. 2019• Cooperation with James Heal – Modification of test containers• Further trials to evaluate test parameters• Next technical Meeting during ISPO 26th – 29th Jan. 2020• CEN process initiated


Material and product developmentDesign and process engineering solutions:• Yarn counts• Yarn construction• Alternative materials• Surface construction - binding technology• Surface parameters: weight, volume and strength• Mechanical finishing• Garment manufacturing


Material development


Mayer & Cie. MPU 1,6; gg24

Alternative materials1. Optimization of PET fabrics:• Yarn tests in cooperation with TWD & Trevira / D

• Variation of fiber and yarn types• Optimization of knitting processes

2. Cellulosic materials• Yarn tests in cooperation with Lenzing / A

• Fibrillation and improvement of handle• Variation fiber and yarn types• Optimization of knitting and finishing processes


Variation of machine parameters

vPET 1o.15.25 1o.10.20 1o.20.30 1o.20.20 1o.10.15 1o.10.30 0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

Reference material limit value

Fibe

r los

s [m

g/kg

]

material

n = 2


Impact on performance properties


Mechanical finishingTest series in cooperation with company Xetma• Raising process

• Variation raising fillets• Variation process parameters

• No. of raising passages• raising energy• Rotation direction of raising rollers• Fabric tension etc.

• Shearing process• Shearing heights

• Mechanical cleaning


Chemical finishing

Test series in cooperation with different partners (industry scale):• Dyeing processes

• Reduction / Variation • Variation process parameters• Analysis of particle type

• Additive chemicals• Softening agents• Lubrication agents


Emissions during processing

0 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000

Lyocell/PES weiß

Lyocell/PES schw.

Vorgew.

Lyocell/PES schw.Rohware

Shedding [mg/kg Fabric]

Emissions per Process Steps

vorgewaschen PES Färbung Auswaschen Lyocell Färbung Auswaschen STPre-washed Rinsed Lyocell Dyeing Quick Test


PES Dyeing Rinsed

LyocellPES blackRaw Material

LyocellPES blackPre-washed

LyocellPES whitePre-washed

Garment production• Different cutting technologies:

• Cutting: mechanical • Ultrasonic welding: mechanical & thermal• Laser cutting: thermal

• Standardization of making tests• Development of a uniform monitor for assembly testing • Seam reduction• Reduction of zippers, buttons, etc.

• Holistic overview: Contamination • All CMT (Cutting,Making,Trimming) processes


Lectures and publications 2019TV reports

• Hier und Heute: „Zeitreise Textilforschung“• NDR: „Mehr wissen – besser leben“

Presentations at meetings/conferences and other events (November 2019)• ISPO, Munich, February 2019• Future Workshop, Buchholz i.d. Nordheide, February 2019• Event „Smarte Masche", Obertshausen, March 2019• Annual General Meeting VÖTC, Dornbirn, March 2019• Presentation of the project during a production tour by Barmag, Remscheid, May 2019• PolitFashionNight, Berlin, June 2019• Plasticity, Amsterdam, June 2019• ITMA, Barcelona, June 2019• OutDoor by ISPO, Munich, July 2019• Man-made Fibre Conference Dornbirn, Austria, September 2019• Stakeholder event, Berlin, November 2019• ITC Aachen - Dresden- Denkendorf, Dresden, November 2019 • Outlook: Open Day, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, January 2020

Confirmation: „Woche der Umwelt“, June 9.-10. 2020, Berlin


Outlook• Continuation of washing tests (household laundry + quick test)• Round robin test to validate the filter material for quick test• Continuation of the development of low-particle constructions (sportswear,

outdoor)• Analysis and development of alternative materials• First investigations on the degradation behaviour of different fibres in

sewage sludge in conjunction with TU Dresden


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