TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

Alok Industries Limited.Processing Unit, Vapi.

Submitted by:AANCHAL JAIN, ANKITA

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT INSTITUTE

KOLKATA

14 June 2013- 14 July 2013

Acknowledgement

I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of ALOK INDUSTRIES LTD. PROCESS DIVISION, VAPI for their outstanding Support and cooperation in our efforts to gain knowledge about the practical aspects of textile industries during my Internship from 14 June,2013 to 14 July,2013.

I would like to take this opportunity to express my sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr. Premendra Gopal (Plant head, Wider Width) for guiding us through all the processes involved in the processing of the fabric.I also thankful to Mr. Vivek Tripathi (Human Resource Manager) for planning out the schedule for internship and his guidance.

I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me throughout the internship and providing me with this valuable and useful information.

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Part-IIntroduction to the Industry

1. Introduction

Alok Industries LimitedAlok Industries Limited is a fully integrated textile company and among the largest textile manufacturers. Here at Alok they focus on world class infrastructure, best technology, uncompromising quality standards, and dynamic product innovation.

Alok was established in 1986 as the private limited company, with their first polyester texturising plant being set up in 1989. They became a public limited company in 1993. Over the years, they have expanded into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles and garments. To ensure quality and cost efficiencies they have integrated backward into cotton spinning and manufacturing partially oriented yarn through the continuous polymerization route. They also provide embroidered products. Through the years they have evolved into a diversified manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel fabrics and polyester yarns selling directly to manufacturers, importers, exporters, retailers and to some of the worlds top brands.Alok has recently entered the domestic retail segment through the wholly owned subsidiary, Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of stores named H&A that offer garments and home textiles at attractive prices. Along with this Alok has also ventured into the realty space through wholly owned subsidiaries with investments in some prestigious projects in Mumbai.

Alok Group of Companies

Textiles

1. Alok Apparels Pvt Ltd 2. GrabalAlokImpex Ltd 3. Miletaa.s. 4. Alok International Inc.

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Retail

1. H&A: Alok Retail India Limited 2. GarbalAlok (UK) Ltd

Realty

Alok Infrastructure Pvt Ltd

1.1 Aloks Vision

To be the worlds best integrated textile solutions enterprise with leadership position across products and markets, exceeding customers and stakeholders expectations.1.2 Aloks Mission

1. To offer innovative customized and value added services to the customers.2. To actively explore potential markets and products.3. To optimize the use of all the resources available.4. To maximize people development initiatives5. To become a process driven organization6. To be a knowledge leader and innovator in textile business.7. To exceed compliances and global quality standards.8. To be an ethical, transparent and responsible global organization.

1.3 Aloks Values

1. Customers satisfaction- top most priority 2. Passion about excellence 3. Development of human capital 4. Fair to all 5. Concern for the environment and the community 6. Safety and health 7. To be a responsible corporate citizen

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1.4Organizational Chart:

Table 1.1 Division of Alok Industries

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Table 2 Organisational structure

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1.4.1 ECO-Certification

Alok is the first Indian Textile company to have been awarded all three certifications for its eco-friendly products as under: EU Flower the eco-certificate from European Union KRAV certification for organic products SWAN certification a Nordic eco-labelling certification GOTS/EKO Sustainable Textiles

1.4 .2 PRODUCTS

Apparel Fabric (Woven) Apparel Fabric (Knitted) Garments Home Textiles Polyester Yarn Embroidered Fabric Retailing

1.5Alok Industries Ltd (Processing Division, Vapi, Gujarat)

Address: Survey no. 161/268, Village Balitha, Vapi, Gujarat

Alok Industries Ltd. at Vapi is mainly the wet-processing unit. Here wet- processing of bed-linens (Wider-width unit), apparels (Normal width unit) and knits take place. Apart from these, here there is a terry-towel unit where in the weaving and wet-processing of terry-towel takes place. Moreover, there is a yarn dyeing and a printing unit here.

Vapi Plant

PrintingWider WidthYarn DyeingTerry TowelknitsNormal Width

So the woven grieg fabric is obtained from the Silvassa plant, according to the order, and processed here.7 PageFootwear design and development Institute

Part-IIThe Wider Width Plant

2.1 PROCESS FLOW

Buyers requirement: - Requirements and specifications required are sent.

Prod. Development and Lab dip: - development of swatches of the shade sent by the buyer samples are developed as per spec. and sent for buyers approval.

Buyer comments- The buyer approval or comments for some changes. If some changes are asked then the samples are re-developed and sent again.

Pre-Production sampling: - The Product development department develops nearly 100 200 pieces in the approved shade. Out of these adequate pieces are sent to the buyer.

Purchase order: - The buyer sends the bulk order in the form of purchase order.

Buyers approval: - The buyers approval of the piece which meets his standards and this sample serves as the standard towel for reference between the buyer and the manufacturer.

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Sales order: - The sales order is prepared and given to the PPC department of the plan through the plant merchandiser.

Production Planning: - As per the sales order the PPC makes the production plan along with the material requirement plan.

Material procurement:- A purchase order is generated for the required dye ,chemicals and other required raw materials to the suppliers.

Processing order:- Production order is given to the preparatory and dyeing departments.

Processing: - Processing and finishing takes place as per the processing plan.

Folding and inspection:-inspection takes place of the processed good which then packaged.

Final Q.A: The final Q.A takes places before packaging and dispatch to assure quality of goods.

Shipment :-The goods are dispatched.

FLOWCHART 2.1

9 pageFootwear design and development Institute2.2 NORMAL WIDTH AND WIDER WIDTH DEPARTMENT

Normal Width(G.M) : Mr. AshishVaidyaWider Width(GM): Mr. PremGopal

Both these departments are mainly used for wet processing of woven fabrics and have nearly the same working route except some few differences which are given below:-

NORMAL WIDTH

WIDER WIDTH

Average fabric width= 1.6mts

Fabric width is 3.2 mts

Gas singeing and desizing is a continous process where steam is carried out.

Gas singeing and desizing is a continous process but is batched after desizing for 7-8 hours

Used in apparel and garment industry

Used in home textiles like bed sheet covers,pillow covers etc.

Finishing machines used

1. Calendaring machine(1 unit)2. Sanforizing machine (5 unit)3. Lafer machine (4 unit)4. Brushing machine(2unit)5. Sueding machine(1 unit)6. Stenter machine(5 unit)

Finishing machines used:

1. Calendaring machine(2 unit) 2. Sanforizing machine (2 unit) 3. Stenter (4 units) 4. Monforts MXL machine for resinfinish(1 unit)

Pre-treatment / Dyeing machines used:

1. CPB(2 units)2. Singe-desize(3 units)3. PTR (3units)4. Mercerizer (3 units)5. CDR(3 units)6. Soaper (2units)

Pre-treatment / Dyeing machines used:

1. CPB(3 units)2. Singe-desize(2 units)3. PTR (2 units)4. Mercerizer (2 units)5. CDR(1 units)6. Soaper (1 units)

The washing range used in normal width is trikoflex(Benninger)

Washing range used in wider width is extracta(Benninger)

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2.3Wider Width Plant:Dyeing is a wet-processing technique of applying color to the fabric. The wet processes, as the name suggests are exclusively carried out under wet conditions and requires bulk quantities of water. The quantity and quality are the major criteria in textile wet processing. Water is not only a vehicle to carry/fix the chemicals/dyes, but it is the medium under which all the wet processes can be carried out. Fabric Type: The maximum fabrics of Alok Industries are of Polyester-cotton Blend (mostly 60-40%), 100% cotton. At Alok Industries we covered fabric processing in the Wider Width Plant.

Process Flowchart

FLOWCHART 2.2FinishingDyeingMercerisationPre-Treatment Range (Bleaching)DesizingSingeingGrey Room Operations

11 | P a g eFootwear design and development Institute2.4 Grey department:

Alok Industries has its own weaving plant at Silvassa. So it has its own production of woven fabric as per sales order which is issued from the head office (Mumbai). Main advantage of it is that it receives pre inspected fabric which is why inspection process here at the processing plant is not given much emphasis but still there is a random inspection which takes place during opening and stitching process.

Various activities have been done here as follows:

1. First of all, the sales order issued by head office is received by weaving unit, Silvassa. 2. Production of fabric as per required sales order quantity, construction and design. 3. Then, this fabric is dispatched to Alok industries Vapi, as per sales order and roll number specifications. 4. Challan number/ Date entry at main gate. 5. Unloading of fabric rolls and allocation of rolls in greige stores place. 6. G.R.N. (Goods receipt note) is made. 7. PPC Department makes the production plan and issues it to the greys fabric for opening asperpriority. 8. Opening of grey fabric and random inspection also takes place, Defects observed such as holes, knots,oil stains, grease stains & weaving defects such as starting mark, missing endetc. 9. Stitching of small rolls of same quality is done. 10.Roll wise checking report is made consisting of the type of defects, meter age, sort number, party name, sales order number (SO) & Production Number (PO) 11. Trolleys and batch number are issued to the bleaching dept.

Description of Fabric quality is as follows:

1. 100% cotton fabric(both for bottom and shirting) 2. Polyester/ cotton blend (65:35, 80:20 & textured polyester) 3. Yarn dyed (Y/D) fabric etc.

Various Designs such as:

Plain fabric, twill, oxford, satin, dobby etc.

Lot number: It is that number which is given by grey section. GRN (Good receipt number)/Year

Lot number CNP 201100276

2011 Running year

276 rial number Production number- it is given by PPC dept.12 | P a g eFootwear design and development Institute2.5 SINGEING AND DESIZING

2.5.1 Singeing

Singeing is the process of removing the loose hairy fibers protruding from the surface of the cloth or yarn. Importance of Singeing: The goods to be mercerized are singed to develop maximum luster in the fabric. In order to impart a clearly defined and sharp design to the cloth in printing, the goods must be singed. If it is not singed, dulling of the pattern and the development of hairy edges takes place.

There are basically three types of singeing machines:

1. Plate singeing machine 2. Roller singeing machine3. Gas singeing machine 2.5.2 Desizing

Desizing is the process of removing the size paste which is applied on the surface of the warp yarns, before the weaving process. If it is not removed, the hydrophobicity of the size paste will hinder the subsequent dyeing and printing processes.

As the maximum fabric produced is cotton and cotton polyester blend so enzymatic desizing is done.

At Alok Industries Gas singeingis mostly done. The flame of the gas is tangentially to the fabric. There are 2 Singeing machines. In 1 machine only singeing takes place while in the other both singeing and desizing occur.

2.5.3 Pad-batch Machine

The Pad-batch machine is of Osthoff. LPG gas and air is used to generate flame. Gas : Air = 1:4 Pressure maintained inside the heat chamber is 11.5-14 mbar. Temperature is around 120-140 C. Cloth roll speed is 120m/min

13 | P a g eFootwear design and development InstituteProcessing

There are three stages:

1. Pre-processing Zone : Here the fabric passes over some rollers so that the protruding fabricscan be raised even more for further efficient singeing.

2. Singeing : When the cloth is drawn over the flame at a high speed, the flame impinges (advance beyond the usual limit) on its surface and burns the protruding fibres without damaging the cloth. The speed of transmission of cloth through the singeing machine has to be adjusted to suit the amount of the singeing required, without the risk of burning the cloth.

3. Post-processing: There are two rollers Dancing roller and Pulling roller. The dancing rollersare for removing the tensions in the fabric and the pulling rollers are for pulling the fabric.

After this the singed fabric goes for desizing. The singed fabric comes into the desizing bath for removal of size materials.

There are two desizing chambers.

The pH of the bath maintained is between 5.5 to 6.5 at 60-65 C temperature. This fabric is squeezed to remove extra solution and piled up. This is left for eight hours, which is the dwelling time for desizing operation.

Then the fabric goes for washing in wet form.

End product: Singed and Desized fabric.2.5.4 B Pad-steam Process

In this process the washing chambers are just in continuation to the desizing chamber. Unlike pad batch, the desized material does not go to another chamber for washing.

Here the enzymes used for desizing is high-temperature enzymes. The washed fabric is dried afterwards.

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Grey fabric loaded

Fabric is brushed post-singeingSingeingFabric passes through rollers

Desizing

Washing

Steaming

Batching

FLOWCHART 2.3

2.6 BLEACHING

Before dyeing the fabric undergoes the process of bleaching to remove even the slightest trace of natural color in it. The process is done not only when the fabric is to be dyed in some other color but also when it is supposed to remain white.

Sodium hypochlorite and Hydrogen peroxide is used on cellulose fibers.

The purpose of bleaching includes the removal of the various natural, added or acquired impurities from the grey cloth as efficiently as possible, with minimum or no damage to the fibre and leaving the fabrics in a perfectly white state.15 | P a g eFootwear design and development InstituteThe damage may be in terms of loss in tensile strength of the fabric which depends on the severity of the bleaching process.

At Alok Ind. 3 Pre treatment range (PTR) are there. They have been manufactured by Benninger. There are 2 types of PTR there. They are: 1. PTR with Injecta2. PTR with Drum rollers

The only difference between these is in terms of the washing process. In case of drum-washer the washing is done on the drums to prevent roping of fabrics like lycra.

Input: Singed and Desized fabric

Machine: Benninger PTR

2.6.1 Process:

Loading of the singed and desized fabric.

The fabric passes through the J-scray

Goes into Injecta and is steamed and heat. There are 4 chambers for washing.

Passes through 4 washing chambers

Goes into Impacta where the chemicals such as NaOH, Stabiliser, Wetting Agent, Reserve and H2O2 impregnated. The speed here is 80m/min.

Goes into the steamer where it is kept for 15 minutes which is also called as dual time at 98-100 C for proper bleaching.

Then it goes into Extracta where hot-washing is done to remove the extra chemicals.

After coming out of the Exracta it passes over rollers of Vertical Drying Range (VDR). Each range has 10 rollers. The lower two rollers of last range are cold.

Finally the fabric is bleached and batched.

FLOWCHART 2.4

End product: Bleached fabric.

2.7 MERCERISATION

Mercerization is the preparation process of cotton or a cotton blend fabric after bleaching to alter the chemical and physical properties of the fibers. In mercerization the bean like section of the fiber becomes first elliptic and then circular, allowing a better reflection of light with a consequent increase of luster. Moreover, the process of mercerization takes place to increase the dye ability of the fabric.

There are two types of machines used for mercerization Chain system - In chain mercerizing machine, the cloth is first allowed to shrink and subsequently it is stretched. Chainless - In chainless mercerizing machine, continuous tension is applied via chains preventing the fabric from shrinking. There are 2 merecerizer of Benninger in the wider width plant. One of the machines is chainless and the other chain.2.7.1 Process:

First fabric is fed in to the machine.

It enters the pre wetting zone.

Then it enters for chemical impregnation with caustic(NaOH).

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The fabric is passed over a stabilizing step where rollers give the tension in the weft direction of the fabric maintaining it at the maximum width. Here also it is washed with NaOH but with less concentration and at 95C temperature.

It goes for washing where 90C temperature is maintained.

The fabric leaves the recuperator through the nip of a pair of squeeze roll.

Souring treatment is given by using neutralizing acid (dilute HCl or sulphuric acid), to neutralize the excess alkali. Here 50C temperature is maintained.

Finally washing is done to remove the salts formed.

FLOWCHART 2.5

After mercerization, fabric is send for process control where the wetability, pH is checked (it should be 5.5) and starch is tested by Tagua solution .if starch is present in the solution it colours changes in to blue and if it is not present then colour will be yellow.

2.6 DYEING

Dyeing is employed to give an all-over shade to the fabric. Coloration of fabric using the method of dyeing involves the use of dye stuff which are capable of reacting and combing with the textile fiber molecule, usually when in a water solution, and usually with other auxiliary chemicals to enhance the process.

2.8.1 Objective:

To color textile substrates (like fibers, yarns, fabrics and garments) uniformly or with good leveling. 18 page Achieve acceptable durability of color to further treatments in production and normal end use. Reproducing the required shade from batch to batch.

2.8.2 Selection Criteria

Suitability of the dye to various uses of the fabric. Fiber content and fabric structure. Required color fastness properties. Cost and availability of the dyestuff. Equipment used for dyeing

At Alok Ind. the different dyes used are: 1. Reactive dye 2. Vat dye 3. Disperse dye

2.8.3 Two ways of dyeing is followed:

1. Cold Pad-batch Dye 2. Pad Dry and Pad Steam

Three Cold Pad Batch (CPB) machines, two Continuous Dyeing range (CDR) and two Soapers are there.

2.8.3.1 Cold Pad-batch Dyeing

This process is done on only cotton fabric.

2.8.3.1.1 Process:

The mercerized fabric is loaded on the pad-batch machine

The fabric passes through the dye-trough.

The dyed fabric is taken out and batched.

FLOWCHART 2.6After this the batch is left rotaAfter this the batched fabric is taken into soaper machine fAfter this the batched fabric is taken into soaper machine for washing. Here the fabric is simply washed using alkaline chemicals.or washing. Here the fabric is simply washed using alkaline chemicals.ting for some time for better absorbency of depth the dye in the fabric (depending on the of the color to be obtained).

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After this the batched fabric is taken into soaper machine for washing. Here the fabric is simply washed using alkaline chemicals.

The time for which the batch is left rotating on the roller depends on the depth of the shade to be obtained. Generally, for lighter shades time required is 6-8 hours, medium shade is obtained in 10-12 hours and darker shades are obtained in 14 hours.

2.8.3.2 Pad Dry and Pad Steam Dyeing

Pad dry and pad steam dyeing is a continuous system of dyeing. Here the fabric used for dyeing is mostly polyester-cotton blends. Here the polyester fabric is firstly heat-set and then the cotton fiber is treated.

Different dyeing machines in Alok Industry are: 1 Thermosol machines 2 Continuous Dyeing Range (CDR) 3 Cold-Pad batch (CPB)dye Machines 1 Soaper

2.8.3.2.1 Process:

The fabric is fed to the machine through the rollers.

The fabric then goes for dyeing.

The polyester comes out dyed from the dyeing chamber.

The fabric goes into hot flow chamber where a temperature of 220C is maintained for curing.Then it goes into the IR drier, where the fabric is partially dried using infrared rays.

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After the curing is done the fabric is dried and rolled.

After batching, the fabric goes into the CDR (continuous dyeing range), the main process here is RC (reduction clearing)

Caustic soda (in the concentration 40 g/litres) is used for reduction.

When the cotton polyester blend fabrics are dyed in the thermosol, some of the dye gets fixed on the cotton. For the proper dyeing of the cotton, the removal of the dye is necessary.

After the reduction takes place, the fabric goes under the final neutralization and is rolled.

Then the fabric goes for the dyeing of the cotton fibers in CPB.

The fabric is loaded and fed to the machine.

The fabric is passes into the dye-trough.

The fabric dyed is taken out and batched.

After this the batch is left for 8 hours for better absorption of the dye into the fabric.

After this the batched fabric is taken into Soaper machine for washing. Here the fabric is simply washed using alkaline chemicals.

FLOWCHART 2.7

2.7 WASHING:

The fabric after dyeing on CPB goes to the soaper machine for washing or for the removal of the extra dyes in the fabric. Alok industries have one soaper of Benninger.2.9.1 Process:

The fabric is loaded and fed to the machine.

The fabric passes through the J-Scray, ebonite rollers, bow expanders and compensator rollers.

The fabric goes into the extracta for washing. The extracta has ten chambers where cold (at room temperature) washing is done.

The speed of the fabric is 15m/min.

FLOWCHART 2.8The fabric is washed and dried, it is ready to be batched.The fabric then goes into the vertical drying range. The VDR has twenty two rollers; two sets of ten hot rollers and a set of two cold rollers.The water flow in the extracta is 27-270 Liter/min.

22 page2.8 FINISHING

There are 2 types of finishing

Mechanical: 1. Calendar 2. Sanforiser3. Brushing

Chemical: 1. Stenter 2. Moisture Cross Linkage

2.10.1 Stenter

Stenter is used for finishing using chemicals. Stenter is done for width equalization. There are 4 sections in the stenter: 1. Drying 2. Heat setting 3. Finishing 4. Weft stretching

First fabric is passed through drying to heat setting then for finishing.After finishing the fabric, it is passed for weft stretching.There are two types of stenter used in Alok Industries: 1. Oil heated (three in number) 2. Gas heated (two in number)

2.10.1.1 Oil heatedFLOWCHART 2.9The fabric is now batched after passing through the J-scray. The fabric is given the finish. The length and width of the fabric before and after treatment is compared.

2.10.1.2 Gas heated

The process in the gas heated stenter is same as that of the oil heated. The difference is only that instead of steamed oil, gas is used. The temperature maintained here is about 60-130C.

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2.10.2 Calendar

Calendaring improves lustre and makes fabric more softer. Fabric is passed between the heated rollers. There are 3 rollers NiPCo roller, Cotton roller, Stainless steel roller. Variation in pressure will give the colour variation.

2.10.3 Sanforiser

Sanforization is done for pre-shrinkage .It is also known as zerozero finishmachine. First shrinkage is tested then according to it the pre-shrinkage is done. In this only warp shrinkage can be controlled.

There are 2 sanforizer in the Alok Industry.

2.10.3.1 Process:

The fabric is loaded and fed to the machine.

Fabric is passed through the moisturiser.

The fabric then goes to the to rubber belt where the pressure of 2bar is maintained.

The fabric next goes to the Palmer in which simple ironing is done.

The roller used in the palmer is covered by the woollen blanket.

Then fabric is passed to cooling cans then batching.

The speed at which the fabric moves is 60m/min.

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FLOWCHART 2.10

2.10.4 Brushing:

It is a mechanical finish given to the fabric.

Alok industries have three brushing machines of Xetma.

The brushing machine has twenty four rollers; twelve working clockwise and the other twelve working anti-clockwise. The rollers are made of metal. The bristles of the roller are also made of the metal.

2.11 INSPECTION Visual inspection is done for the checking of fabric defects. 4 point system of inspection is followed at Alok Industries with acceptance defect of 25. The acceptance of defects can change according to the buyers demand. The inspection is done on the inspection machine. There are 16 inspection machines.

2.12 PACKING

The packaging of fabric goods is done in the form of rolls on the packing machine using HDP and LDP. There are altogether 2 packing machines of Penguin.

In roll packaging the finished rolls are fed into the machine with the help of A-frame. The fabric is passed through the inclined board with the appropriate lightening. The sliding fabric passes through the rollers which provide control motion to the fabric. The lower part of the machine consists of a hanger which has the roll on which the fabric is wound. The maximum width of the roll lies in between 60-64.

2.13 DISPATCHING

The packed lot is sent to the dispatch unit where the weight of the lot is taken by the weighing scale. Now according to the orders received, the packing slips and invoices are made and the slips are attached to the respective lot.

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The dispatch department has warehouse for the storage purpose. The warehouse of the Precot weaving unit contains the following type of products:1. Finished and packed consignment ready for dispatch 2. Excess fabrics 3. Self designed fabrics 4. B-grade fabrics 5. Cancelled orders

Part-IIIPrinting

1. PRINTING

3.1 Printing

Printing is defined as localised application of dye or pigment in a paste form to generate a pattern or design on the fabric. It is simply called as localised dyeing. Steps in Printing Process: Preparation of print paste Printing of fabric Drying Fixation of dyestuff Washing-off At Alok Industries, there are: Baby sampling Rotary Screen Printing Engraving section Digital printing CAD Lab

3.2 Baby Sampling:

The samples are made here according to the buyers choice. The fabric type, color, dyes type are taken into consideration. Generally 90 days time is allotted. If extra time is taken then the expense has to be paid. The sampling is done using a hand screen printing. The sample so made is passed through different test so as to satisfy the buyers need.

26 pageFootwear design and development Institute3.3 Rotary Screen Printing

Perforated circular (or cylindrical) metal screens are used for printing instead of the flat screens. Each screen is individually driven. The print paste level inside the rotary screen is automatically and constantly controlled. The transfer of printing paste through the perforations of the screen on to the cloth is governed by specially designed squeegee blades. Possible to fit the screen automatically whenever the machine stops, so that no stop marks are produced. All screens fit in perfectly, independent of the movement of the fabric or the blankets, so that a perfect fitting of the design is obtained consistently. Half-tone effects and vertical lines can be produced very successfully by this method.

Speed of the machine can be adjusted from 10 to 100 m/min. Printing machine is provided with a feed arrangement, a selvage alignment unit and a continuous gluing unit for gumming down the fabric. For cleaning, each rotary screen can be dismantled and washed. The drying unit used hot air, the temperature of which is thermostatically controlled. Company brand of printing machine: Reggiani Printing and Laxmi Printing machine Number of machines: 3 Reggiani Printing and 1 Laxmi Printing

Printing Input: Dyed or bleached fabric, as per customers requirement.

3.3.1 Dye used:

Reactive dye Vat dye Disperse dye

3.3.2 Process Loading of the fabric on the rotary machine. The fabric passes over the rubber blanket on which there is a continuous flow of poly vinyl gum so as to stick the fabric. Maximum 12 rollers are possible in rotary printing. The fabric moves at the same speed as the rollers of the machine. The fabric passes from the blanket and through the rollers. Different rollers will have their own designs and for different colors different rollers will be needed. The gum is continuously washed at the other end. The print paste is moved inside the rollers through a perforated pipe which continuously pours throughout the roller and then on to the fabric. The blanket after crossing the rollers goes through the slant mesh to reach the steam chambers. The temperature in the steam chamber is 150 C. The fabric passes with an average speed of 36 m/min. The printed fabric after steaming is rolled.

27 pageFootwear design and development InstituteOutput: Printed fabric is obtained

3.4 Steaming and Curing:

At Alok Industries, the make of the machine is of Benninger and Arioli Loop Steamer. In 2 curing and steaming happens together and in 1 only curing is done. The steam inside the chamber is of 102 C and 2 kg amount. The fabric is left for 12 minutes inside the chamber. The fabric moves with the speed of 9 m/min. The process of curing and steaming depends upon the type of fabric used. e.g. Vat dyed fabric requires steaming and then washing. Camouflage print can be done by vat dyes.

For pigment printing only curing is done. The curing is done at 150 C. The curing is basically done for the development of the prints after the printing process.

Input: Printed Fabric

3.4.1 Process

The printed fabric is loaded.

Then the fabric is moved through chambers for either steaming or curing.

This is a continuous process where the fabric is kept for 12 min inside it. 8 chambers are altogether in the steaming machine.

After development of the color it is rolled and unloaded.

FLOWCHART 3.1

Output: The fabric is cured and steamed.

28 pageFootwear design and development Institute3.5 WASHING

The washing process done depends upon the type of dyeing and printing done. e.g. Vat dye requires washing after steaming whereas Pigment print does not require.

Input: Can be steamed or can be directly washed.

After coming out from the wading chambers the fabric passes over the VDR. There are altogether 16 rollers divided into 3 sets. The first two set is of 7 rollers which are hot rollers. The third set consists of 2 rollers which are cold. The fabric passes from the cold rollers and get rolled finallyThe last chamber contains acid for neutralizing the alkaline soap. The washing happens for 20 minutesThen fabric is passed through 4 chambers for washing. The first three chambers is for washing the fabric. The hot washing is done at 60-90 C. Soap and peroxide is added.The fabric is loaded.

The dried fabric roll is unloaded.

FLOWCHART 3.2

Output: Washed fabric obtained

3.6 PREPARATION OF THE SCREEN (ENGRAVING SECTION) For engravation of the screen ink-jet engraving is done 640 is the normal repeat. No. of dots in the linear inch is called as mesh. The holes/dots in the mesh lies between 13-95.

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For preparation of the screen photo emulsion coating is done on the screen and dried at 35 C and 50% humidity. UV-light is treated on the screen so as to stiff the coating. The used screen can be reused by further treatment. The rotary screen is made up nickel.

3.7 FINISHING

There are 2 types of finishing Mechanical and chemical The process of finishing is same as Dyeing.

3.8 STYLES OF PRINTING

1. Pigment 2. Pigment Discharge 3. Reactive

FLOWCHART 3.3FinishingPrintingCuring ( 150C temperature for 5 minutes)3.8.1.Pigment process

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3.8.2.1 Pigment Discharge Process

Printing

FLOWCHART 3.4FinishingWashing (peroxide 5 gpl and soap 1 gpl )Curing (150C for 5 minutes)Steaming(102C for 5 minutes)

Printing(130C - 140C)3.8.3.1 Reactive Process

Steaming(102C)

Washing (soap)

Finishing

FLOWCHART 3.4

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3.9 Post printing:

After the fabric has gone through all the processes involved with printing, it is shipped back to its original plant i.e. wider width, narrow width or knits. Over there the fabric then undergoes the required finishing processes and is then inspected, packed and shipped to the buyer.

Part-IVTerry Towel

5.1 TERRY TOWEL

Altogether 48 machines are there. 36 dobby and 12 jacquard.

The width of fabric produced on these machines is between 110 and 11 inches. Maximum healds can be on the machines are 15.

The batches of towels produced are in terms of weight. 10-13 tons of towels are produced daily.

Fabric type: 100% cotton, Polyester-cotton blend, loops of cotton and polyester underneath.

The Terry towel has the following process sections:

Grey room Warping Sizing Loom-shed Weaving Bleaching Batching and Dyeing Drying Finishing- Stenter Shearing 32 PageFootwear dsign and development Institute Length Cutting Finish Folding

5.1.1 Batching and Dyeing

The fabric after bleaching is loaded into the batching machine where the dyeing is done and the subsequent washing is also done.

The batching machine has 3 ports. In each port 300-350 kg of fabric can be loaded.

5.1.2 Drying

Using hydro extraction process, excess water is removed from the fabric rope. Hydro extractor is based on centrifuging principle. The fabric rope is loaded into the hydro extractor and centrifuged at an rpm of 350 450 (according to fabric quality). Each chamber has 2 fans. The fabric in the heating chamber moves in front and then goes back.

5.1.3 Finishing

Finishing in the terry towel is done mechanically by the Stenter Technique. Skewing and bowing defect is removed through this process. The Stenter is of MonofortsMontex.

5.1.3.1 Shearing

The piles of the fabric are sheared using the shearing machines. There are 2 machines at Alok Ind. both of them are of Lafer. After that the towels are cut according to their length and width on the length cutting machines.

5.1.3.2 Stitching and Final Folding

The edges of the towel is stitched either on the Montimac chain stitch machine or on SNLS Juki machines and further folded.

5.1.4 FINISH FOLDING

After processing the fabric is moved towards the finish folding department.

Here various operations performed are:

Length cutting

Length hemming

Cross cutting

Cross hemming

Initial checking

33 pageFootwear design and developmentInstituteTQM Supervision

Poly packing

Carton Packing

Final AQL Testing

Documentation & dispatch

5.1.5 INSPECTION

Visual inspection is done for the checking of fabric defects. 4 point system of inspection is followed at Alok Industries with acceptance defect of 25. The acceptance defect can change according to the buyers demand. The inspection is done on the inspection machine. There are 30 inspection machines.

5.1.6 PACKAGING

The packaging of the rolled fabric goods is done on the packaging using HDP and LDP. There are 3 machine for packaging. Two of Testa and 1 of Penguin.

Part-V Knits processing unit

6.1 KNITS PROCESSING

6.1.1 KNITTING PROCESS

1. GREY ROOM 2. PRE TREATMENT AND DYEING 3. FINISHING 4. TESTING 5. PACKAGING

6.1.1.1 Grey Room The knitted fabric in the raw form are received in this department. The small rolled fabrics are being brought in from the Silvassa Plant. It might be in open width form or in tubular form. It depends on the costumer on which form he wants. No inspection is done in the Grieg room.

34 pageFootwear design and development Institute6.1.1.2 Pretreatment and Dyeing Winch dyeing machine is used for all types of knits. During the operation of the winch, the tension exerted on the fabric is far less than the other types of machines. It retains much of its original softness of hand and fabric fullness.

6.1.1.2.1 Process

Fabric loading

Scouring

Bleaching

Dyeing

FLOWCHART 5.1

Scouring and bleaching are done together. Caustic, peroxide, wetting agent and lubricant are the chemicals used for processing these process.

All these process happens in 1 machine only.

6.1.1.3 Time and water consumption of the process

Shade Time Water Consumption

White shade 3 hrs20 litres/kg

Light shade 6 hrs25 40 litres/kg

Middle shade 7.5 hrs50 litres/kg

High shade 9 hrs60 litres/kg

At Alok Industries SCLAVOS ATHENA machines are used.

There are total 15 winch dyeing machines in knitting floor.

250 kg 2 machines

35 pageFootwear design and development Institute110 kg 2 machines

50 kg 2 machines

2 tube 5 machines

3 tube 5 machines

Total production rate 24 - 25 ton/day

6.1.2 FINISHING

Finishing machine

SANTEX SANTA STRETCH

Total number of machines 6

In knits fabric comes either in tubular form or in open width form therefore finishing is also done in two types of machines Tubular Openend

6.1.2.1 Tubular

Process

FLOWCHART 5.2IroningTubular drierWater SqueezeStretching36 page Footwear design and development Institute

6.1.2.2 OPEN WIDTH

Process

Fabric roll is passed through the silicon softner. In which 150C 180C temp is given in the chambers.

After treating the fabric roll with silicon softner it paased through the compactor to ironing .Then end pins marks are cut.

6.1.2.2.1 Peaching

In peaching carbon brushing is done on the fabric to make it smooth.

6.1.3 Inspection:

Visual inspection is done for the checking of fabric defects.

4 point system of inspection is followed at Alok Industries with acceptance defect of 25. The acceptance defect can change according to the buyers demand.

The inspection is done on the inspection machine. There are 25 inspection machines.

6.1.4 Packaging:

The packaging of the rolled fabric goods is done on the packaging using HDP and LDP. There are altogether 4 packaging machines. Two are of Testa and the other 2 is of Penguin.

Part-VIColor Kitchen

Automatic color kitchen (Color Service) is a new technology that is based on a high level of automation.

JITSSChere are numerous advantages of this color kitchen over the manual one and mainly includes the labor reduction, less spillage of chemicals thereby less wastage of chemicals and hence better than manual color kitchen. This color kitchen has been divided into various units which work together or independently and supply chemicals and dyes to the various ranges like the CPB, CDR, Stenteretc present in the wider width department. The main function of the color kitchen includes supplying prepared color solution and chemicals (either raw or prepared) to the various dyeing and finishing machines in the department.

37 pageFootwear design and development InstituteSo the dye solution made is then transferred to the color preparation tank and from there it is transferred to the required machine.Whole automatic color kitchen unit works on PLCs (Programmable Logic Controllers) in which the recipe is either fed or it is received from the machine and according to which the operations are carried out and the amount of chemicals and dyes. are weighed and transferred to the next stage. So the details of all the units are explained in the later part of the report.

6.1 ADVANTAGES OF AUTOMATIC COLOR KITCHEN

1. Colors are prepared quickly without involving much labor. 2. Manual errors are avoided and high precision is there. 3. Bulk to bulk reproducibility is there. 4. Neat and clean atmosphere for working is provided. 5. Manual efforts in terms of time, number and cost are reduced. 6. Wastage as color, chemicals and utility is reduced.

6.2 MANUAL COLOR KITCHEN

Manual color kitchen is the older technology that is used for preparing color. In this color kitchen all the steps are done manually which are done with full automation in automatic color kitchen. So there are numerous advantages of automatic over manual one.

6.2.1 DETAILS OF THE PROCESS:

Number of mobile tanks = 16 Capacity of a mobile tank = 1000 liters Number of dissolver tank = 2 No. of shifts = 3 No. of hours in a shift = 8 Time required to make a color (dark shade) = 45 min 1 hour Time required to make a color (light shade) = 15-20 min Number of dark shades made in 1 shift = 6-7 Number of light shades made in 1 shift = 15-20 Number of people required in making these amount of colors = 4 per shift Time required to transfer color into the service tank = 10-15 min

6.2.2. PROBLEMS FACED BY MANUAL COLOR KITCHEN

1. Color Preparation is time consuming 2. Labor intensive 3. Problem of dye spillage, dirt accumulation 4. Batch-to-batch variations. 5. Problems in Bulk-to-Bulk reproducibility.

38 pageFootwear design and development Institute6.2.2.1. STEPS INVOLVED IN PREPARATION OF COLOR MANUALLY:

The sample obtained from the customer is checked in the laboratory and the recipe involving the constituent colors is made.

Initially the dyeing is done in laboratory in the ROTA dyer and then the shade is matched with the sample given by the buyer. If its accepted it is sent for bulk dyeing.

Next step involves the bulk color making i.e. for CPB, ratio of color: chemical is 4:1;whereas the CDR and thermo sol dyeing has no particular ratio.

The first step involves dye weighing which is done on a digital weighing machine. According to the requirement of the recipe the required dyes are weighed.

Next step is dissolving the dye in hot water (in DISSOLVER TANK). Since to make a single shade, different dyes are used so dissolving them to form a homogeneous solution is necessary. Much time is required for dissolution of dye.

Then the dye solution made is filtered so as to remove the un-dissolved dye etc.

The filtered dye solution is poured into the MOBILE TANK along with GREEN ACID (0.1 gpl) which is carried to the required machine. Green acid is used to make the dye solution acidic.

The dye solution from the mobile tank is transferred to the overhead tanks/service tanks of specific

7.7 CONCLUSION

So apart from having various advantages of the automatic color kitchen there are a few shortcomings as well such as the whole color kitchen works on the networking and it may be possible that the sometimes the network is not working so the whole unit has to be stopped and production is delayed most of the times. Moreover there a lot of electronics involved (like the sensors) and if any of the parts is not working properly therell be a problem and incorrect dosing may be there. In addition to the above disadvantages there may be chance that the chemical or a dye to make a particular shade is not available with the color kitchen then it has to be made manually. But apart from all these shortcomings which can be avoided by regular inspection and maintenance, automatic color kitchen is an exceptional technology which has reduced labor and most importantly there is high precision in it.39 pageFootwear design and development InstituteGLIMPSES OF WIDER WIDTH

Grey fabric over locking machine

Batching of grey fabric singeing and desizing

Mercerize machine Dyeing machine

Finishing machine (stenter)

40 |P a g eFootwear design and development InstituteGLIMPSES OF NORMAL WIDTH

41 |P a g eFootwear design and development Institute

GLIMPSES OF PRINTING UNIT

42 |P a g eFootwear design and development InstituteGLIMPSES OF KNITS UNIT

GLIMPSES OF TERRY TOWEL UNIT

43 |P a g eFootwear design and development InstituteCONCLUSION

This industrial training capsule at Alok Industries Limited has been instrumental in upgrading our skills pertaining to the proceedings of the textile industry. It was a great learning experience. The project gave us an opportunity to gain the first hand experience regarding the technical know how of the textile industry and helped us to relate the things learnt by us during the tenure of our curriculum.

These 4 weeks were indeed a receptacle of tremendous quanta of knowledge. I have experienced the expertise and knowledge of the trained people of the industry. Time management and discipline were one of the important aspects which I acquired during my four weeks of internship.

I would also like to once again thank all the contributors who have guided us and have given us their continuous support.

44 |P a g eFootwear design and development Institute