Terms and Conditions of Use

Copies of Walk magazine are made available under Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike copyright.

Use of the magazine.

You are free:

• To Share — to copy, distribute and transmit the work • To Remix — to adapt the work

Under the following conditions (unless you receive prior written authorisation from Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc.):

• Attribution — You must attribute the work (but not in any way that suggests that Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. endorses you or your use of the work).

• Noncommercial — You may not use this work for commercial purposes.

• Share Alike — If you alter, transform, or build upon this work, you may distribute the resulting work only under the same or similar license to this one.

Disclaimer of Warranties and Limitations on Liability.

Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. makes no warranty as to the accuracy or completeness of any content of this work. Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. disclaims any warranty for the content, and will not be liable for any damage or loss resulting from the use of any content.

VOLUME 38

PHOTO: ,JAN MATTINGLEY

1987

Editor: Noel Tolley

Advertising: Ian Newbold

Business Manager: Philip Taylor

Cover: Looking towards The Razorback from Mt Feathertop PHOTO: MERRIAN DUNDAS

Walk is voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne Bush walkers to enhance community appreciation of the natural world and to encourage bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation.

All enquiries to Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc., GPO Box 175IQ, Melbourne 3001.

1

CONTENTS Beyond the Devils Signpost. F. W. Halls 5 Errinundra - Waterfalls, Beauty and High Adventure

Jopie Bodegraven 15 Watch Your Language! Graham Wills-Johnson 19 Bush Cooking in the Base Camp. Philip M. Larkin 22 Rogaining. Spencer George 25 A Journey Through Northern NSW. Andrew Menk 31 Changes at Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.

Keith Lierse 34 A Weekend Excursion into the Andes. Alex Voltan 35

TRACK NOTES

The Wonnangatta-Moroka Area South east of Bryces Gorge 37 Along the Snowy Range 38 The Mt Reynard circuit 39 Snowy River side gorges Little River Gorge 41 Boundary Creek 43 Currie Creek 43 Mt Gelantipy Creek 43 Minchin Creek 44 Ski trails of Mt Stirling Telephone Box Junction - Razorback Trail -

Circuit Track 44 Stirling Trail - Mt Stirling - Bluff Spur Trail 45 Stirling Trail - Mt Stirling - Clear Hills Trail -

Bluff Spur Trail 45 The Grampians Double Head Mountain and Black Range Caves 47 Rainbow Caves and Natural Bridge 47 Three walks from Flat Rock Picnic Ground 47 Buandik aboriginal shelters 48 Hollow Mountain from Buandik Picnic Ground 48 Red Cave Mountain from Hollow Mountain 50 Chimney Pot Plateau 50 Camp of the Emus Foot 51 Other areas Sugarloaf Peak - Cathedral Range 52 Six peaks in two days - the Baw Baw Plateau 52 Rocky Mouth Spur 55 Upper Jamieson Hut - Mt McDonald - Clear Creek 56 Boobyalla Plateau 57 Below the Blowhard Range 58 Melbourne suburbs The old Inner Circle Railway 60 Old Oakleigh Town and Waverley 61

ISSN 0812-4876

2

EDITORIAL OPINION

I get angry when I have to trudge on an endless carpet of horse manure where once there was a delightful mountain track, or when I have to drink from a mountain stream laced with cattle excrement, or when I have to wade through a quagmire caused by the hooves brought in by those who 'care for the high country' as if it were their own private, barren stockyard.

I become incensed when the serenity of a quiet lunch spot is invaded by a huge convoy of 4 WD monsters with their dust and noise and fearsome guns, and when I think of their huge bonfires and the piles of household garbage they leave as a trademark wherever they go. Or when the aggravating strangulated fart of an unseen renegade trail bike forcibly triggers stress filled memories of civilisation that override the revitalising restfulness of the bush.

I am dismayed when I see three deer hunters prowling through the camps and over the walking tracks in the Howqua Valley with guns and 4WD, searching not only for a hapless deer but also for the seven dogs they sent after it.

I have witnessed no less than ten skidoos at once, yahooing all over the Nigger heads on a beautiful sunny morning last August, tearing up every inch of skiable snow, shattering the peace for miles around, and destroying the enjoyment of many peaceable cross country skiers in the area.

It is inconsiderate and arrogant behaviour such as this that readily draws the wrath of pacifists like me. I don't deny others the right to share the same places as I go, but I do expect them to share these places in a way that doesn't infringe my right to peaceful enjoyment of the outdoors.

Yet I too have cooked on large fires where minutes before there had been lovely soft green grass, and where afterwards there will only be a great black scar, an ugly pile of char and ash, and maybe a ring of blackened stones for others to see. And I have been with companions who have dumped orange peel, wrappers and foil to glare incongruously at others for months- maybe years- to come. And most of us have seen the sickening piles of garbage that only bushwalkers could have left at places like Tarli Karng.

Sharing of our limited outdoor resources by groups with diverse interests is inevitable. But it cannot work effectively unless we all learn to be tolerant and considerate, and to accept full responsibility for our own conduct. We must learn to respect the rights of each other, and to cherish what little we have left for all to share.

I hope Walk will contribute in some way to such a development of mutual understanding and care.

Noel Tolley

The Editor thanks the authors and photographers whose work is represented in this issue, and particularly Marion and John Siseman for their assistance with word processing.

3

Where the professionals shop

• Suppliers to professional search & rescue organisations

• Bushwalking • Lightweight Camping • Outdoor Clothing • Climbing & mountaineering • Cooking equipment • Maps & navigation aids • Cross country skiiing

204 LATROBE ST, MELBOURNE 3000 (opposite Museum Station)

PHONE 662 3349

4

BEYOND THE DEVILS SIGNPOST

F. W. Halls

The pungent blue smoke filled the air in the valley below the warning finger of Devils Signpost, the high sandstone plinth near the eastern edge of Consuela Tableland, the high plateau penetrated deeply by the vertical ravines of the Carnarvon Gorge complex. At the time I left the camping ground near the gorge mouth the haze was only light, yet as I climbed the long stony spur the acrid smoke swirled more thickly between the iron barks. Still, it was a very fine view of that spectacular sandstone pinnacle from a high rocky knoll just off to the south, where wattles bloomed freely. I clambered up to touch the southern base of that vertical plinth, but there was definitely no chance for a bushwalker to climb from that particular approach.

As I scrambled around the rocky northern flank it seemed to me that possibly this was a good approach, but after struggling quite a long way up, I had to give it away just a couple of metres below the crest; the climbing was too tough and exposed for a lone bush walker such as myself. On returning to lower ground, I continued north along a faint, rough foot track around the base of the vertical cliff line. The return to camp was made through thickening smoke, and close to camp grey kangaroos bounded away in all directions through the open grassy forest.

The Carnarvon Gorge National Park has an area of about 26,900 hectares and is situated in part of a 250 square mile (640 sq. km) triangle of gorges and ravines eroded into the Great Dividing Range and Consuela Tableland, its

Carnaruon Gorge PHOTO: FRED HALLS

5

Mesozoic sandstone mesas being capped with a layer of Tertiary basalt, rising to 1200m elevation. Some ofthe gorges are up to 250m deep. The main gorge is 2 km wide at the mouth, and narrows to a dozen metres wide upstream, being even narrower in some of the side gorges.

In the half dozen aboriginal rock shelters that can easily be visited a total of several thousand stencils, carvings, impressions and paintings can be viewed - a real showpiece of various colours and subjects. Some of the pale purple hand stencils are so faint and faded as to be barely visible even in well sheltered locations such as the Cathedral Cave. This would seem to emphasize the extreme age of these stencils, an art form that was probably the oldest of the pictographs.

Moss Garden At 700mm the average annual rainfall of Carnarvon Gorge, although not

high by Queensland standards, is sufficient to promote at least three different types of environment, the sandstone heathland, the open forest along the main gorge, and the rainforest of the damp clefts and crevices. One of the latter is the beautiful Moss Garden in Violet Gorge, where luxuriant ferns and mosses dangle from overhanging cliffs, constantly dripping water. To reach that spot Merle and I followed the main gorge upstream. Near Hellhole Gorge great square-cut blocks and bluffs of startling white sandstone dominate the entrance of that side ravine; then we followed the track back where sharp blocks of grey and white stone cut as cleanly as by any knife into the lush world of Violet Gorge and its Moss Garden.

The walking track along the main gorge by Carnarvon Creek is mostly easy going, traversing the flat banks through open forest past numerous crossings over large rocks which are judiciously placed as stepping stones. Normally it is a dry foot operation, except when the creek runs high after heavy rain. When we walked quietly past some of the deeper creek pools the larger water birds were sometimes seen, intently absorbed in patiently fishing those deep waters of the creek.

After passing the Hellhole the open forest seemed to become progressively more verdant, the graceful, feathery river oaks were tall and shady, the stems of cabbage tree palms thrusting leafy crowns thirty metres and more high above the dark green fronds of stout zamia palms, with short, rough, sturdy stems and dark-green leafy crowns. The dark, corrugated turpentines provided a foil to the brightly shining boles and mottled barks of the rose -or flooded - gums. Slender mottled boles with patches of grey and silver denoted the presence of the spotted gum.

Parabooya The great cliffs were mostly a dazzling white sandstone, sometimes

interspersed with horizontal layers of grey or yellow sediments, but at about 5 to 6 km upstream from camp we entered the superb Parabooya section, where the canyon was much deeper and narrower, curving back sharply upon itself in deep U turns.

The aboriginal name Parabooya means 'red stone', and between the bends of the creek stood great towers of red brown, orange red and rust coloured stone, each block separated from its neighbour by a chasm 100 to 200m in depth. The high red square-topped mesas dominate vigorous forests of spotted gum with their mottled barks and tall white rose gum, groves of dark

6

Cathedral Cave PHOTO: FRED HALLS

turpentine and graceful river oaks. The brilliant colours make this probably the most dramatic and striking section of the Carnarvon Gorge complex.

Cathedral Cave One of the oldest, simplest and most common forms of aboriginal art is that of stencilling, the hand stencil being the most prevalent. A composition of various stencils can be especially exciting if accompanied by carvings executed as a frieze at the foot of paintings. At least two of the Carnarvon art galleries are quite exciting because of this pleasing combination.

The huge Cathedral Cave is the largest of all the aboriginal art galleries in Carnarvon country. It is an enormous overhang of pure white sandstone - a veritable treasure house of ancient aboriginal art. The carvings are particularly old, probably dating back hundreds, maybe even thousands of years.

Some of the higher paintings and stencils are placed up to six metres above the present day ground level. It seems that the floor level of the cavern when the paintings were made was considerably higher than that of today.

7

Near the right hand end of the gallery a maze of abraided groves forms a most interesting pattern, but it is really the numerous colourful stencils and the artistic arrangements of these pictographs along with the pictures of nets and baskets that are the most attractive. Most distinctive of the stencils are groups of boomerangs placed parallel to each other. Then there are the double-ended hand stencils - two hand stencils with an arm between. Several of these double-ended hand stencils are in purple tones, and also in red. There are clear red stencils of hafted stone axes and red stencils of what appears to be oval fruit, many with a short portion of stem still attached.

Among the engravings on the frieze are emu tracks, clutches of emu eggs, the clawed feet of animals, sharpening grooves and what appear to be fertility symbols.

On the wall there are yellow stencils of boomerangs and emu feet, also red stencils of very strange clubs of bulbous shape. Are these the stencils of the wooden club called the 'kidney smasher'?

Angiopteris Ravine Another return trip along the main gorge from the camping ground

includes the Art Gallery, Angiopteris Ravine and Amphitheatre, total 12 km, the side trips being only short distances - 500 metres - from the main track.

Angiopteris Ravine is a strange place indeed, where a waterfall tumbles from overhanging walls into a large, clear, still pool, before issuing from a very narrow cleft into the main section of the ravine lined with long trailing vines and filmy ferns. It is a place of strange beauty and coolness. The very rare angiopteris evecta ferns grow here, strange ferns whose 12 em long

Art Gallery PHOTO: FRED HALLS

8

Art Gallery PHOTO: FRED HALLS

fronds alternate for a distance of half the outer stems, which have a diameter of about 5 em. The total length of stem and fronds is about 5 metres.

Carnarvon Art Gallery The frescoes of the Art Gallery are 70 metres long, with some of the stencils

being placed up to 5 metres above ground. Here are possibly some of the finest examples of stencils, paintings of aboriginal implements and carvings executed on soft white sandstone. Thousands of stencils and paintings in five different colours can be seen: red, yellow, black, white, and dark red. There are also nets or baskets in these five different colours.

On the walls there are carvings of fertility symbols, clutches of emu eggs, emu and kangaroo tracks, the clawed feet of animals, lizard men, hands and two curving snakes. There are stencils of hands, boomerangs, bull roarers, stone knives, fighting sticks and coolamons or shields.

The crossed zamia palm frond stencil appears, as well as the gherkin shaped fruit of the cuppa plant. The painting of seed pods from trees of the

9

kurrajong family and what were possibly the totemic signs of the zamia palm are prominently displayed, as are painted seed pods in bunches.

But most interesting of all are the heiroglyphic carvings at the foot of the paintings. Beautifully carved into soft sandstone are ovals of the same dimensions as emu eggs, possibly fertility symbols, and a human foot, a three-toed bird or animal track footprint, and footprints of mythological food animals. Strangest of all are the carvings of three different cult heroes, each with a headdress of different design.

Koolaroo Shelter Midway along the canyon wall between Koolaroo Creek and the

Amphitheatre the brilliant white of a sandstone shelter accentuates the bright red clarity of the hand stencils. There are 124 of these plus a couple of dozen faded stencils.

As well as the many hand stencils there are stencils of boomerangs, stone knives, a thumb stencil and also that of an arm and drooping hand in profile - a most unusual subject- also a painted basket. With the number and variety of subjects clearly illustrated on its brilliant white wall this painted overhang is a real work of art.

The Amphitheatre At the well-named Amphitheatre the high cliffs curve in an arc. Near the

foot of the main overhang there is a deep dark circular pool complete with its resident croaking frogs. From the bowels of the mountain ten metres above, a tiny stream of ice-cold water issues from a narrow cleft. An almost vertical steel ladder enables one to ascend to the narrow ledge, then to follow the stream back behind the narrow opening.

The painted markings at the Amphitheatre differ from most other Carnarvon shelters in that there are very few hand stencils, the majority of the paintings being the imprints of three dozen red hands placed low down along the wall of the great bay of overhanging white sandstone with its horizontal bands of soft yellow rock and dark red ochre.

Mickeys Creek Gorge The feature of tiny side creeks issuing from side clefts and narrow canyons

is duplicated many times over throughout the Carnarvon Gorge complex. I can remember on one occasion we were following the stream back into the innermost recesses of Mickeys Creek Gorge, a very narrow and beautiful overhung cleft at least a hundred metres deep, in places less than a metre wide. It is a cool place of dripping cliffs, square-cut blocks and undercut grooved horizontal strata-cliffs of white and dark grey stone.

We could easily touch the stony walls on each side as we edged along a narrow ledge half a metre above water level. On the left, at about elbow level, another very narrow ledge served as a kind of handrail for steadying purposes. At a tricky spot I turned around to advise and assist Merle. There between us, poised on the ledge, was a small greenish snake; how I had passed by and not seen it I will never know. It remained quite unmoving, and I doubted whether it was still alive. It certainly was alive, for when I knocked it into the water, it swam away swiftly. Although the day was warm outside the

10

snake must have been rendered torpid by the cold air in that narrow, rocky cleft.

A little further along, we saw the skeleton of a large wide-jawed snake down in the clear water; henceforth I was particularly careful whenever we explored the hidden recesses of those narrow canyons.

Baloon Lookout Caves On the way to the Baloon Caves, a track off to the left climbs to a lookout

point, en route ascending the incline at the foot of an overhanging cliff. The stencils are situated in a series of rock shelters, or niches, facing north and covering quite a considerable distance. These shelters contain a total of over 100 red hand stencils, some quite faded. The strangest figures being the 20 short yellow strokes arranged opposite in such a fashion that they appear to be fern fronds, or maybe part of a fish skeleton. There are also stone axe grinding grooves below some of these stencils.

The main group of stencils is situated in a semi-circular alcove 1.5 metres by 2 metres long containing the very clear and unspoilt red hand stencils and three hafted stone axe (baloon) stencils arranged in a most attractive grouping. The total of more than 60 hand stencils are in red, yellow and white tonings, with red predominant.

Boowinda Canyon In our opinion, the most eerie ravine in all that complex of gorges was the

strange Boowinda (or Thunder) Canyon. The 19 km return journey is made by following the main gorge upstream through the picturesque Parabooya section. Just past Cathedral Cave, Boowinda Creek comes in from the left (south west).

What an amazing place! We had never seen anything quite like this. The wind roars through this curved narrow gorge like an express train. No wonder they call it Thunder Canyon. Just imagine an electrical storm in this eerie ravine. I must confess to a slight feeling of unease as we explored the confines of this weird rocky defile. Hanging ferns and mosses grow from the wall of the inner curve only; the other surfaces are too smoothly wind­blown.

Boolimba Bluff During another day, following the foot track up through a narrow side

canyon brought us out on to flowering heathlands on the fiat top ofBoolimba Bluff (6 km return). There were good views from several points along the cliff edge, views of the main gorge mouth, the Consuelo Tableland, and white sandstone cliffs extending south east for as far as the eye could see.

Wagaroo Creek Gorge One afternoon I set out along the track towards Boolimba Bluff, and at the

point where the Bluff track turns right up through a side gully, I continued upstream along the rough main gorge of Wagaroo Creek, at times climbing to examine overhangs under those side walls, looking for signs of past aboriginal art. Loose scree rock along the gorge floor sometimes made for very slow going. As the walls closed in, the creek bed ascended in a series of huge steps past large fiat slabs, bedded strata of grey and red sandstone.

11

Rainforest type vegetation grew along the narrow creekside, rusty figs espaliered upwards along the vertical walls, and lush ferns and greenery dangled from clefts in the wall of that cliffy ravine.

Continuing upwards, the cliffs became progressively lower as I passed through the dry, sandstone uplands habitat of Consuelo Tableland. It was quite another world, a sandy heathland environment similar to that of Boolimba Bluff. (There is no track after leaving the Boolimba Bluff track and following Wagaroo Creek upstream towards the north. 6 km return).

Goothalanda A dry rocky steep ridge in an open forest of iron barks and spotted gum

leads up to the heights of Goothalanda (Devils Signpost), a rocky finger poked high into the sky near the cliff edges of Consuelo Tableland. This viewpoint is much higher than the Carnarvon Gorge mouth at Boolimba Bluff, and provides a grandstand from which to view the pale cliffs in the south eastern quarter passing away into the blue distance, a long line of white cliffs for as far as the eye can see.

Kooramindangie Plain The translation of Kooramindangie means 'kangaroos here'. Once again

this is an apt name. As I was returning from Goothalanda crossing the Kooramindangie Plain large numbers of kangaroos moved away, while numerous striped tail-swinging goannas waddled through the camping area, cheeky possums invaded the tent foraging for food, the rainbow lorikeets, various parrots, cockatoos, currawongs and magpies were plentiful, in fact many native species seem to be abundant throughout this great National Park.

The environment, the people What a relaxing environment this must have been for the Pitjara and

Kamoloo tribes. With a great stock of native game to be hunted, with plentiful food and water, and with sheltered sandstone walls, boulders and overhangs on which to paint to satisfy their artistic, totemic or spiritual needs, it must have been a full life.

The following food animals were available: echidna, goanna, euro, emu, lizard, heron, carpet snake, swan, bearded dragon, koala, water dragon, brolga, ibis, bronzewing pigeon, possums (ringtail and brushtail), wallaby, black snake, top-knot pigeon, kangaroo, pelican, brush turkey, and bustard or plains turkey.

Aquatic foods included crayfish, freshwater mussels, fish and edible waterlily. Plant foods included nardoo, yam, seed of coolibah, emu-apple, grass seeds, fruit of the cuppa plant, wild honey, berries, roots of black kurrajong, peas and zamia nuts (when suitably processed).

The tribes probably preferred using caves that were light and airy, yet withall, were well protected from adverse weather conditions. Many of the large open caves were probably used as living shelters, while others would have been used for sacred or ceremonial purposes. It is likely that some of the more remote and sacred shelters would have been used as burial niches and guarded by significantly placed warning stencils.

The aboriginals visited some of the Carnarvon gorges to collect zamia nuts.

12

It seems likely that they spent much time in rock shelters, busily engaged in grinding seeds, pounding mussel! shells or zamia nuts, grinding and polishing stone axes, spears and stone knives; shaping boomerangs and bullroarers, repairing fishing nets with stringybark or twine made from human hair.

Access On our way into the Carnarvon region, we left the so-called north-south

main highway, intending to drive the rest of the journey in by way of the Wyers by Track. What a horror stretch to be even designated as a track, the worst route we have ever followed. In places we crept along at a slow walking pace over creek beds composed of solid rock, yet criss-crossed by deep sharp­edged gutters. In other spots, the main track being so bad to negotiate, we were forced to try the gluggy side tracks, and even at slow walking pace those patches could be spring breakers. Then there were the steep stony downhills to dry creek crossings, with rough surfaces along the bottom, followed immediately by the winding steep uphill grades. In all a frightful track!

From general information gleaned during our stay of eight days at Carnarvon camp, I gained the impression that it would be better to attempt the northern exit, out along station roads to Rolleston.

What I omitted to take into account was the fact that 75mm of rain had fallen in a short period near the latter end of our stay. It was definitely a 'hairy sort of a ride' on the way out. The closer we got to the main roads and the further north towards Rolleston the worse the road became. For at least 60 km, the track was a sea of deep black soil slush, and we slithered, broadsided and aquaplaned along the top of that black goo most of the way out to Rolleston. I was afraid to stop, as we would never get through once the car was stationary. I don't know what would have happened ifthere had been a large rock amidst all that black mess. I shudder again whenever I think of the nightmare drive north beyond the Devils Signpost.

Walk Back Issues 1977-1985

COMPLETE SETS OF $14 NINE BACK COPIES

(including packaging and postage)

Also available- back issues 1969-72, 74, 75 75 cents each (inc. packaging and postage)

Send your remittance to Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. GPO Box 1751 Q, Melbourne Victoria 3001

13

Falls, Errinundra

14

ERRINUNDRA Waterfalls, Beauty and High Adventure

Jopie Bodegraven

Tucked away in far east Gippsland about 100 km by road north east of Orbost lies an area which has recently been in the headlines. It is the Errinundra Plateau and the issue has been logging. All this publicity has stimulated interest in the area- particularly amongst bushwalkers­and led to this three day adventure taking in some of the prettiest, most spectacular and most difficult river and creek scenery I have encountered.

What got me interested were a National Parks poster and a wilderness calendar photo. I pulled out the appropriate Natmap and studied it. I know that the area has some of the highest rainfall in the state. The map showed that there were several creeks with sizeable catchments on the plateau which plunged off the southern edge in a frenzy of close contours, a recipe for waterfalls and interesting creekscapes.

The March '86long weekend saw seven of us assembled where Hammond Road crosses the Errinundra River West Branch. The river was cold and flowing well. The plan was to follow the river about 6 km downstream to a major tributary and then follow that upstream back to Hammond Road at Sassafras Basin, a further 3 km, making a total distance of 9 km. We anticipated two days but allowed three just in case. We hoped for fairly easy going through mature rainforest with a relatively open understorey but knew full well that in many places the scrub could be incredibly thick, and fallen logs could be a problem. Following a rapidly falling creek inevitably involves slow and deliberate rockhopping and scrambling. We therefore cut our

Lunch, day two PHOTO: JOPIE BODEGRA VEN

15

Falls, Errinundra PHOTO: J OPIE BODEGRA VEN

packweights to the bare minimum, finishing with weights of 11 kg to 14 kg. We would use two tent flys and a tiny tent, leaving heavier tents at home. No fresh fruit and vegies for most of us this weekend and no choofers. We set off in high spirits and with a threatening sky.

Lesson number one came quickly. Stay beside and in the river. Have you ever tried moving across a steep slope when 4 ft diameter tree trunks are lying down it, with mini mud cliffs, thick tree ferns and tangles of fallen tree tops in between? It ain't easy. Beside the river the g"oing varied a lot. Some parts were choked by logs, some offered easy walking under tree fern forests, others involved rockhopping or wading and there was constant fern bashing. I've never seen so many tree ferns. The waterfalls were beautiful, the river and rocks enchanting. We camped early that afternoon not wanting to miss out on a fair campsite. We had covered 2112 km in six hours.

We knew that Day Two would be a long day. We expected no campsites on the very steep sections and were aiming for the flattish section of creek about 1 km upstream on the tributary. The morning was sunny and of course we passed numerous suitable campsites during the first hour. The river was beautiful with its little cascades and green moss covered rocks.

The river gradient became steeper and the going more difficult. To bypass some tricky bits we left the river for higher ground and it was here that we first encountered them - the botanical monsters - and lesson two was hammered home. The arch villain was the dreaded loya vine. It has clothes

16

snaring hooks and the stems are covered in small spikes that rasp into your skin as you pull past. I had thought that it only occurred in NSW and Queensland rainforests. Unfortunately not. In addition there were two other types of spiky vines. And if that wasn't enough, instead of the soft Dicksonia tree ferns which lined the river we had the Cyathea tree ferns. They have frond stems like coarse rasps, cruelly scraping into bare skin. We fought our way through and back to our beloved river which we followed faithfully and religiously. The topography and rocks might be trickier but botanically it was a whole lot easier.

The ascent up the tributary creek started as a delight. Previously most rocks were wet and discontinuous so rockhopping was treacherous and intermittent. Here however we could stay on dry rocks right beside the creek and what a delight it was climbing up beside those cascades. Unfortunately it didn't last. Back to wading, wet rocks and fern bashing. The valley walls closed in. A large waterfall loomed up, so up the side we went, right into a tangle of - you guessed it - loya vine. Oh dear! There is nothing as soul destroying as bashing uphill through loya vine! It was now very cold, raining, and the troops were tiring. Loya vine, muddy slopes, big logs and dense scrub were not what we wanted at this stage. "Let's get the hell out of this vegetation infested, steep slippery slope and back to the creek" was the general feeling. So that's what we did. The rest of the creek to where it flattened out was slow and difficult with log jams and slippery rocks, but it was very scenic and we eventually did reach the flatter part.

There was however a problem. True, the creek was less steep, but it was still a steep-sided gorge with no fiat campsites. With troops close to exhaustion and on the verge of mutiny, and with steady heavy drizzle, we had to settle for the first spot that even gave a hint of a campsite- a shingle back rising six inches above the water - and hope the water level didn't rise too much. We tried to light a fire, but with everything dripping wet we couldn't get beyond smouldering fern fronds, so we gave it away as a bad joke, dined on cold breakfast for dinner and crawled into our sleeping bags.

The water rose two inches. It was a night of intermittent and uncomfortable sleep, curled up in 4 ft sleeping lengths to avoid "foot in water" syndrome, waking periodically to check water levels and giggle at our predicament, stretch sore muscles and curl the other way. Boy, were we glad to see dawn! A quick pack up and we were off.

That morning was the slowest of the trip and it rained all day. It took 4 hours to advance 400 metres although the creek was particularly beautiful. We took to high ground where the cliffs forced us higher to where the going was even slower; the usual logs, scrub, slippery mudslopes, fern bashing.

We struggled back down to the creek at the first opportunity via a slow and tricky rope-aided descent down a muddy gully. To my horror we were confronted by what seemed a sheerwalled gorge. It looked too difficult but the thought of going back up the way we'd come down was too horrific to contemplate. We chose the gorge. Through the roaring casacades we battled, slowly and delicately negotiating slippery rocks and logs, wading the icy water. Surprise, surprise; it was in fact feasible - whew! That gorge sticks in my mind as incredibly exciting and incredibly beautiful.

Much of the scenery the rest of that day was straight out of Tolkein. It rained, and steadily; we were cold and wet. Our lunch was 15 minutes standing up! But the sheer beauty of the creek with its green and mossy

17

A · h · · PHOTO: JOPIE l:!ODEGRAVEN mg t of mtermlttent and uncomfortable sleep

surrounds more than compensated. Lower Sassafras Basin was probably the best of all. Fairly easy walking through a parklike setting of gnarled trees, rocks, and ground all blanketed in a carpet of green moss beside rushing waterfalls. I could hardly imagine a more beautiful setting.

On and upwards towards the road and we were into eucalypt forest again with its frustrating fallen logs, scrub and occasionalloya vine. The last 50 metres to the road was through an almost impenetrable thicket of saplings and cutting grass- a masochist's delight. Boy, were we glad to see that road. A brisk 3 km road walk with a freezing wind took us back to the cars, dry clothes and fresh food.

Advice to walkers. This trip was one of the most memorable and spectacular I have done. I consider it extremely worthwhile. However it is a hard and potentially dangerous trip. Anyone not confident on rocks should not go. A retreat from the creek via spurs and ridges would be very slow and difficult and if a bad accident did occur your could be in big trouble. Don't overestimate speeds. We covered 9 km in 3 days at an average speed of 21h hours per kilometre.

Travel as light as possible; rockhopping and crawling over and under logs with a heavy pack is soul destroying and dangerous. Try to pick a warm rainless period because the creeks are cold and you soon get drenched from wet fern and scrub. Generally staying close to the creeks is easier due to vegetation. Loya and other spiky vines tend to occur way from the creeks and below 800 metres elevation although we did find some higher.

An excellent challenging day trip would be to start on Hammond Road (GR671693 on Natmap 1: 100,000 Bendoc) and go down into Sassafras Basin and return. Adventurous groups could come up with the other equally rewarding trips, but most would be equally remote if not more so than the trip described. I personally will be back to explore more: I'm hooked.

18

WATCH YOUR LANGUAGE!

Graham Wills-Johnson

"Frank: if I were to sniggle - what would I be doing?" Although· most readers will be as nonplussed as I was (or for that matter as was Frank Muir) by the question, there will be many who will recognise in it the distinctive style of the BBC program My Word. As it turned out, sniggle is an English dialect word having much the same implications for an eel as does the verb "to tickle" when a trout is the prey.

That, of course, should have been the end of it, but an hour later I realized it wasn't going to be. Sniggle continued to niggle. At the back of my mind there was some word which was clearly related to sniggle, yet had nothing whatever to do with eels. A word I had first heard among bush walkers. That was it!- "snig track". An Australian hardwood giant being hauled out of the undergrowth on a snig track can be seen to have much in common with a West Country eel leaving its ditch for the last time. It just had to be the same word! So much of what we take to be distinctively Australian turns out upon proper investigation to have very old origins somewhat aside from the mainstream - in the case of language either slang or dialect- which in new circumstances, where the orthodox metropolitan tradition lacks a precise match, is revitalised, adapted or otherwise pressed into serious service.

As it happened at that time the first edition of the Australian Pocket Oxford Dictionary had just been published with a fair degree of trumpeting, so I turned to it eagerly, expecting instant confirmation of my conjecture. Alas. "Snig" was nowhere to be found. Maybe they hadn't had any bush­walkers on the staff. So, I would write and tell them all about it so they could put it into the second edition. By nightfall a letter was in the mail. The sequel was mildly surprising. At the next week's meeting of the Melbourne Bush walkers Chris, a bush walker of my long acquaintance, came up and said "Thank you for your letter about the eels. That was interesting." I gaped at her, confused. "I work as an editor with O.U.P.", she said by way of explanation. "We have sent your letter on to Professor Turner, who has already started work on the next edition". In due course Professor Turner wrote from the University of Adelaide to say that he knew of snig tracks, and also of a New Zealand reference to "snigging chains", and yes, there could be a case for including it in the next edition. That was all quite a long time ago now, and I don't know what happened next.

The point of all this preamble is, of course, that it raises the question: "is there a distinct bushwalking vocabulary, and what are the origins of the words it comprises?" The question of definition arises at once. Although most of us will have encountered the word "snig" only as a result of taking up bushwalking, the world obviously "belongs" more to timber workers than it does to bushwalkers. Let us say, however, that "snig" is "in" as being ours by adoption. You will begin to see just how illogical I am if I then say that as far as I am concerned, "abseil" is "out"! Logic doesn't come into it as far as I am concerned, and "abseil" is out because it is a rockclimber's term. No staid, respectable, feet-flat-on-the-ground bushwalker would have anything to do with it. Let me now flabber your gast completely by then demanding that

19

"prussik" be "in"! Why? A prussik knot is an extremely useful knot which deserves to be very much better known among bushwalkers than in fact it is. No better way of keeping guy ropes optimally tight exists, and if more people knew it, those silly little aluminium notchy things that chew ropes to pieces would vanish from the market. Besides, look at the word itself. "Prussik". Where did a lovely word like that come from- and how long ago?

Still, "prussik" is just about the only rockclimber's term I am going to let in. Rockclimbing teems with dozens of its own distinctive words, whereas bushwalking has very few. Therefore, like the Gaullist opponents of "franglais", we must be vigilant in the extreme. Rockclimbing is such fertile soil that, at least, for some rockclimbers, a word like "bong" has two totally different meanings. But with the passage of time the generation of Ms Kathy Lette heads inexorably towards suburban respectability, and for all I know a newer generation has already asserted its independence by inventing another name for the same item. As for the other item, the evolving technology in the insane art of going up walls has already rendered the device obsolescent, and the time will inevitably come when both the implement and the word used to describe it are known only to the rockclimbing historian.

Well, enough of their language. What about ours? Let's see what we can line up: snig, prussik, bushwalker (!), choofer, prondonicles, scroggin, abdul (verb), parka(?), Lilo (verb) (??), Shellite (???).Not much of a list yet, and already you can see how careful we must be. Parka, for example: I was wary about this one right from the start . .. always had a vague idea it was a New Zealand word. It's not. It's in the staid old (5th) edition of the C.O.D., which says it's an Eskimo word. An Eskimo word used by Poms and Kiwis does not qualify, even if thousands of local bushwalkers use it too. On the other hand "Shellite" at first sight would never be considered, being a brand name. That may be so, but the Kiwis (at least those of the South Island) have never heard of "Shellite", and the "tramper" (read bushwalker) who has an empty choofer and doesn't know the words "white spirit" has a very real problem on his hands if he happens to be in Te Anau or W anaka. These days, whether over here or over there, so few supermarkets seem to carry it anyway that we shall probably all have to switch to unleaded petrol before much longer. Brandname or bushwalkerword, "Shellite" seems fated soon to be a word of the past.

Lilo, of course, is also a brand name; but surely nobody outside the select circle of your classic or aquatic bushwalker uses the word as a verb. The action, and the word used to describe it, must qualify. "Prondonicles" get me into a lot of trouble. Boring people call them billy tongs, and while tongs is (are?) standard English, I suppose one would have to take another look at the word billy by the time we got to the more boring details of the project. I had always known them as "Paddyfingers", which of course is a brand name, when in 1974 we met a party of students from Macquarie University at Bathurst Harbour who were flourishing the word "prondonicles" around instead. The only explanation they could give was in the well-known Australian tradition of cutting down tall poppies - that they refused to use the brand name of a firm whose success has been so synonymous with the development of the occupation itself.

"Choofer" is clearly onomatopaeic, but here we come to several things at once. One is that of evolving technology. Many an MSR owner will have been

20

impressed by the advances in design compared even with the machine he had before that. But what, if anything, was available for the likes of Edward Whymper to carry? Was there anything (other than firewood carried on the backs of the guides?). Given that in his day peak elevations were often estimated by measuring the temperature of boiling water, even if the chaps were entirely too spartan or British to need the occasional cup of tea, the need for a portable stove must even then have been apparent, but was anything of the sort to be had in those days? When was the first patent on something recognizable as a choofer, however archaic, taken out? What were the significant steps in its refinement and improvement? How did the people at MSR size up the problems as they stood at the time they made their advances - and what has happened since?

Another of the several things we came to at once: we were talking of how words get into dictionaries. As likely as not, if they're bushwalking words, through publications such as Walk . Time magazine, in its issue of 19th May 1986 noticed the completion of the second update of the original Oxford English Dictionary. Starting in 1957 under the editorship of New Zealander, Robert Burchfield (whose tutor at Oxford was J.R.R. Tolkien), the project involved a staff of 57 and took thirty years to complete. The supplement, in its four volumes, defines 13,500 words which have come into the language since the original supplement was published in 1933. If these are just the supplements, what of the original? After decades of planning and a number of false starts the preparation of this began in 1858. It took no less than seventy years to complete, filled twelve large volumes, and consumed with a remorseless tyranny (against which he only occasionally rebelled) the pro­fessional career and most of the adult life of its main editor, Sir James Murray. Caught in the Web of Words, by his grand daughter, K.M.E. Murray, tells the story.

Most dictionaries confine themselves to giving one or several definitions of the meaning of a word and a brief (and usually very conservative) indication of its origins. The Oxford English Dictionary was a much more ambitious undertaking than this. By selecting the most apposite quotations that a veritable army of voluntary readers could come up with from the entire body of English literature, an attempt was made to illustrate the whole history of each word, and the variations in meaning to which actual usuage had sub­jected it, right back to a starting point in around the year 1150, when the language of the Normans and that of the Saxons had begun to merge into a single English language - if there is such a thing.

The language constantly moves on. Some words die out. Some "go underground", and live a shadowy existence as slang - many slang words are most unbelievably ancient, and seem capable of surviving centuries of disfavour by "the establishment" by virtue of their ability to live on upon the vulgar tongue. Perhaps the word "vulgar" itself goes a long way towards explaining why. Its alternative form, "folk", has escaped the pejorative cast which has been inflicted on it by, presumably, the "un-folk". Nevertheless, it is print in which a word must finally give an account of itself. It is time, perhaps, for the editor of Walk to ask his readers to send in words which they think might apply, together with a short history of where they came across them, to be recorded on a bottom quarter page each year somewhere near the back? Our words, if we really do have any, might otherwise suffer permanent "geographical embarrassment".

21

BUSH COOKING IN THE BASE CAMP Philip M. Larkin

Quick meals using a jaffte iron Try using muffins for a change, instead of using bread for jaffies; they

come in a number of different flavours and types, and they contain a high protein value.

Savoury Muffins Using wholemeal muffins - with egg and bacon

- with ham and corn spread - with salami, tomato paste and cheese.

Grease the jaffle iron with a little margarine, and place half of muffin on each side of the iron with a spread of margarine on each half. Place filling onto bottom section of muffin and close jaffie iron and place onto hot coals for 7-10 minutes or until jaffle is a light golden brown, turning the iron over 2-4 times while cooking. Serve hot.

Sweet Muffins Using plain muffins- with mixed dried fruits, honey and cinnamon

- with dried apricots and orange marmalade - with dried apples, blackcurrant jam and allspice.

Soak dried fruit overnight in cold water or white wine and add sugar to taste, drain off liquid and prepare jafHe iron with muffin halves, as above. Place fruit onto bottom section of muffin with balance of filling. Close jafHe iron and cook as above. Serve hot. Try this with reduced cream or a hot sauce.

Urapunga Aubergine (baked aubergine) 1 small aubergine (egg plant) 1 clove of garlic 1 rasher bacon salt and black pepper \4 teaspoon marjoram 1 teaspoon olive oil

Make four incisions across the length of each aubergine and stuff alternately with pieces of bacon rolled in herbs and slivers of garlic rolled in salt and pepper. Sprinkle olive oil over and bake in camp oven for 1 hour or until soft or omit oil, wrap in foil and bake in hot coals for approximately 45 minutes or until soft. Serve hot.

Kakadu Tomatoes (stuffed tomatoes) with garlic and parsley 6 large tomatoes salt and black pepper 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped

4 tablespoons parsley lh tablespoon of lemon juice 1 tablespoon of olive oil

Can be served hot or cold. To serve cold, skin the tomatoes and remove a thick top slice, hollow out with a teaspoon, salt lightly and leave upside down to drain. To serve hot do not skin. Chop pulp finely, mix with garlic, onion and parsley, season well, add lemon juice and bind with oil. Fill the tomatoes and serve. To serve hot brush the unpeeled tomato with oil and place in camp oven 10-15 minutes or until soft.

22

Evening meals using a camp oven Potatoes Howitt (potatoes with garlic and cheese) 8 slices rindless bacon 2 cups grated gruyere cheese 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic 6-8 potatoes, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped parsley salt and pepper 1 can reduced cream

Line the camp oven with aluminium foil and wipe out with oiled paper. Cut the bacon into 1 em wide strips and cook over hot coals until crisp and golden coloured, then add oil and first layer of potatoes. Season well with salt and pepper and cover with a layer of grated cheese. Continue filling the dish with alternate layers of seasoned potatoes and cheese until the dish is full. Sprinkle with finely chopped garlic and parsley. Cover the dish and place onto hot coals. Cook for approximately 30 minutes, shaking the dish occasionally, but do not stir the contents. When the potatoes are tender when pierced with a pointed knife, pour the cream over the surface, replace the lid and cook for a further 3-4 minutes. Serve the dish immediately with a strong red wine.

Beef Kimberley (boiled beef and carrots) 2Vz kg corned silverside 10 small carrots 1 large onion 12 small onions 8 cloves 2 small turnips 4 bay leaves 1 cup apple cider 10 peppercorns 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 rasher rindless bacon 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon vinegar

Put the corned silverside in a large camp oven, add the large onion peeled and studded with cloves, the bay leaves, peppercorns and bacon. Cover with cold water and vinegar and bring to the boil and after a few minutes remove the scum. Keep the meat on the boil and continue skimming for about 10 minutes. Cover the camp oven and simmer for approximately 60 minutes. Remove from the heat, lift out the meat and strain the liquid into a basin. Peel the carrots and onions and peel and coarsley slice the turnips. Arrange the vegetables in the camp oven with the beef on top. Pour over the strained liquid and the cider to cover the beef. Sprinkle in the mustard and cinnamon and cover the pan with the lid. Bring to the boil and simmer for 1'-h hours. Serve with boiled potatoes.

Ord River Beans and Ham 450 gm dried haricot or 1 large onion, chopped

kidney beans, 4 tablespoons margarine soaked overnight 2 tablespoons black treacle

pinch of salt 3 teaspoons dry mustard 250 gm salt port or 3 tablespoons tomato ketchup

rindless bacon, sliced 1 teaspoon pepper Place the beans in camp oven with a pinch of salt and add enough water to

cover them. Bring to boiling point and simmer for 1lh hours or until almost tender. Drain the beans and keep the liquid to one side. Saute the salt pork and onion for 3-5 minutes in the camp oven, turning them over once or twice. Pour the beans into the camp oven and mix the treacle, dry mustard, tomato ketchup, pepper and remaining margarine with the bean liquid and pour

23

over the beans. Cover the camp oven and return to the fire for approximately 60 minutes, adding extra water if necessary. Serve hot.

Gunbower Damper 6 cups self raising flour 1 tablespoon baking powder pinch salt

warm milk cup mixed dried fruit

Line the camp oven with aluminium foil and place onto hot coals while making damper. Mix flour, baking powder and salt. Gradually add warm milk and form into a smooth, non sticky dough. Make the dough wet, then add more dry flour to make a spongy dough. Add the dried fruit and knead the dough lightly. Place dough into hot camp oven, replace the lid and cover camp oven with hot coals. Bake the damper for approximately 30 minutes. Serve hote with margarine.

Desserts using a camp oven Alpine Hot Apple Jam Roll Dough: 111z cups self raising flour 1 teaspoon baking powder pinch of salt Vz teaspoon nutmeg 1lz teapsoon cinnamon 3 cups Tandaco suet

Filling: blackberry jam 250 gm dried apples, soaked

overnight 1 tablespoon raw sugar 6 cloves 'h teaspoon nutmeg 'h teaspoon cinnamon 1 beaten egg

Prepare the dry ingredients before leaving on your trip and place in a dry container. Sift flour, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cinnamon. Add suet, lightly mix and place into container. Gradually add cold water and form into a fai rly stiff and non-sticky dough. Draw the mixture together with your hands and knead the dough lightly until smooth and elastic. Roll out neatly onto a clean cloth. Spread the dough thinly with jam. Drain the apples and place them evenly across the dough. Sprinkle with raw sugar, cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon. Carefully roll up the dough with the filling and seal the ends and edges with the beaten egg. Place the roll onto a well floured cloth or tea towel and fasten the ends with safety pins. Drop the roll into boiling water and boil for 2 hours. Serve hot with custard.

Mataranka Baked Apples 1lz cup mixed currants, raisins 1lz teaspoon nutmeg

and sultanas 'h teaspoon cinnamon 1-4 cup mixed peel 1 tablespoon sherry lA cup mixed chopped almonds, 6 large cooking apples

walnuts and hazel nuts 1 tablespoon honey 1,'4 cup honey liz cup orange and mango juice

Combine mixed dried fruit, peel, nuts, honey, nutmeg, cinnamon and sherry in a mixing bowl, and mix evenly. Core and slice the top off the apples and fill the centre of each with the mixed fruit filling. Mix the tablespoon of honey with the orange and mango juice and pour over the apples. Wrap each apple in aluminium foil and place in camp oven or onto hot coals. Cook for 30 minutes or until tender. Serve hot with custard or reduced cream.

24

ROGAINING Spencer George

The word rogaining does not appear in the first edition of the Macquarie Dictionary, 1981. However the occurrence of the word was noted in an early newsletter of the Macquarie Dictionary Society. Rogaining is the sport of long distance cross-country navigation in which a team visits as many checkpoints as possible during a given number of hours. Many rogaines last for 24 hours, and during this time all members of a team may walk or run for both day and night, crossing creeks, climbing hills and negotiating fences and scrub.

The first rogaine was held at Gem brook in 1972 and was organised by the Surrey Thomas Rover crew of Brighton, and the Victorian Rogaining Association was formed in 1976. But the idea for the events was much older. In 1947 Bill Bewsher organised the first Melbourne University Mountain­eering Club (MUMC) 24 hour walk. The course was a line event in which five competitors aimed for checkpoints from Warburton over Mount Donna Buang to Hurstbridge.

The MUMC 24 hour walk has been an annual event ever since. It is held on the weekend with the longest night of the year, in the wintry month of June.

PHOTO: MARTIN HALL

A plastic orienteering-style marker at each checkpoint

25

So on the twentieth of June in 1986, competitors gathered at Baynton for the 40th MUMC 24 hour walk, a 96 km course with 40 checkpoints.

Well, what is a checkpoint? It is a position accurately defined by a map where there will be a plastic marker, a punch with which the team will record a distinctive set of holes on a score card, and a safety check sheet on which the teams mark their arrival time, team number, and planned next checkpoint. Sometimes checkpoints are in unusual places. Some descriptions of checkpoints in recent events have been:

On the Hand of God statue outside the Arts Centre On a wattle tree 125 degrees 40 m from the junction of a creek The summit of Mt Tallarook Under the steam engine in Fitzroy Gardens On the main bar of the Tavern Hotel in Baxter On root of large gum tree in gully The road bend The waterhole 350 degrees 45 m from middle of the dam wall The verandah of the North Carlton railway station

Let us go on a typical rogaine. A few days before the event the team contact receives the preliminary

information sheet which gives their team number, instructions for reaching the start and details of what to bring:

Waterproof coat, mittens, torch, spare globe, map case, pencil, biro, beanie, spare batteries, watch. water bottle. compass, whistle

Comfortable runners will be satisfactory. Walkers are advised to wear some form of leg protection such as comfortable long pants or shorts with gaiters. Bring your own tents, plates and cutlery. No dogs please. You should understand terms like knoll, spur, summit. All competitors must check in between 1100 hours and 1400 hours.

Early on the Saturday morning the team sets out for the start which is at a country hall about 20 km from Bacchus Marsh. They are greeted on arrival by a man who directs them into a paddock where they park in the grass at the end of a long line of cars. Already the tents, folding chairs and tables of the early arrivals are blossoming amongst the cars and grass.

At 11 am they report to the Administration table and are issued with two maps, two sets of checkpoint instructions and general information and rules. They are reminded that three areas of farmland are out of bounds and that the river in the north east of the map has only two bridges and it is carrying a large volume of deep fast flowing water.

Back at their table in the sunshine they spend the next hour marking the checkpoints on their maps. A small circle is placed around the point then the checkpoint number and its point score are added. The circles are then highlighted with fluorescent markers. After comparing their two maps, they walk back to the Admin area to check their markings with the master maps. The master maps also show three points where containers of drinking water will be available.

26

PHOTO: MARTIN HALL Teams disperse quickly after the start

Now is the time to plan the routes. It is decided to ignore the north east section of the map as the country is rugged, the checkpoints are wide apart and the fast flowing river makes only one route across the area seem possible. Most of the other checkpoints fit into two large loops. The first loop chosen will allow some high scoring checkpoints during daylight while the return route has checkpoints that should be reasonable to find during the night. After this loop a return will be made to the hashhouse and after a meal, a few hours sleep will be snatched before setting out just before daylight next morning on the second loop. The team are confident of their navigational abilities during daylight, but know they are very unskilled at reaching an exact point on a map at night unless there are a number of easily identifiable features close by to help them.

A call is made that lunch is on. They collect their salad rolls, a couple of pieces of fruit each and mugs of orange juice and enjoy eating while they talk with some oftheir friends about their plans. Five minutes before the starting time the coordinator makes the official welcome from a tank stand and then exactly at 2 pm the cork flies from the champagne bottle and another rogaine is in progress. Some teams run from the time they release their scorecards from the clothes line, but most simply walk. Soon teams are scattering in many directions.

27

Our team's first checkpoint is about a kilometre away, just out of sight and with an out of bounds area between them and it, so it is easiest to walk along the road until past the out of bounds buildings then cross two fences and head straight for the the knoll on the spur, where the red and white plastic marker is tied to a dead tree. They use the punch to stamp their score card, and mark their details on the safety check sheet.

Their next checkpoint is a large rock at the bottom of a cliff about 2 km away. There are no major obstacles on the route but two crreks have to be jumped, five fences negotiated and there is a steep climb onto a plateau before an even steeper descent on the other side. There, as expected, is marker number 23.

Checkpoint number 42 is on an acacia at the junction of the creek and a creek at the other side of the valley. The creek is marked on the map but the position of a creek must be inferred. There are two possible routes: either across the floor of the valley and then follow up the creek until the junction is found, or across a narrow section of the valley, climb onto the plateau, walk across the plateau to near the head of the creek and drop down onto the checkpoint.

On the assumption that it may be easier to walk down the creek than to climb up it, the second route is chosen. By luck, while still on top of the plateau they see the red and white marker and so head directly for it.

Checkpoint 47 presents no problems except for distance and so time. The description is simply the summit. There it is in the distance beyond the farmhouse. They set off on a direct compass course, but change their minds when they come to a farm road, as gates which open are usually quicker than climbing a series of barbed wire fences, and walking on a road is quicker than through a paddock of long grass. With 4 checkpoints and a progressive score of 130 points in just over 2 hours and 20 minutes, they decide to add another two checkpoints to their route by making a small diversion.

And so the day continues. The sun sets. It is dark. A brief stop to find torches and pullovers in the packs and to share an apple.

The next description is the more southern bend in the creek on eucalyptus 10m up SW bank. They cross the creek well above the point and slowly follow the creek, checking every eucalyptus, and after about ten minutes are rewarded with red and white and punch 31.

Their next checkpoint is on the way back to the hashhouse. It is about 3 km but on tracks all the way. The description is the bend in the road on tea-tree 330 degress 110m. Sounds easy. At 11 pm a road bash is almost welcome in comparison to climbing fences. The bend is easy to find, but there is tea-tree everywhere. It takes them three attempts before they find the marker which is almost at ground level.

The light from the campfire guides them back of the harshhouse where they temporarily surrender their score card while they eat and rest. This walking is a thirsty business so it is a mug of lemon cordial before the bowl of vegetable soup, then a plate of stew complemented by a variety of salads, a serving of fruit salad and two mugs of coffee before crawling into sleeping bags. Sleep until 4 am is planned.

At 4.15 am they are awake again and back at the campfire eating before setting out on a 4 km road bash to the summit which is their next scoring place. The surrounding farmland becomes more visible as sun rises above the horizon. After their fifth checkpoint for the morning they make their major

28

error for the weekend, following the wrong creek into the hills before realising they are not in the correct position. To be sure exactly where they are they retrace their path and so waste 40 minutes.

By 10.45 am they leave fences behind and are in open forest with no tracks, steep hills and dry creeks. The heat of the sun indicates that the first week in December is definitely summer. The next three checkpoints are:

The saddle on native cherry 155 degrees 25m The summit on log A small dam on dead tree 335 degrees 50 m

At 1 pm it is obvious that the combination of hot sun and distance has beaten them, so two checkpoints are abandoned and a low scoring 10 point checkpoint near the hashhouse becomes their final goal. Since the penalty for being late is ten points per minute, it is better to miss a checkpoint than be late back. It is 1.55 pm when they hand their card into the Admin table. They have found all the checkpoints which they have headed for, that is 24 checkpoints with a point score of 650.

Lunch. Pack up the tents. Change into clean clothes. Wait for the official results. The winners scored 1540 points.

If you want to read more about this young sport a book full of useful hints is ROGAINING- cross-country navigation by Neil Philips & Rod Philips, published by ORIA. The authors are recognised authorities on the activity as they founded the Victorian, Western Australian and Australian Rogaining Associations.

PHOTO: MARTIN HALL Team members must keep together throughout the event

29

r~ Melbourne 74owaverleyRoad .._....,. Map Centre chadstone

- \ .. -/vi----:: .. • ALGONA MAPS /{ ~~··. . . · . . 1 AND GUIDES ~.;;, '"VI · ) • VMTC MAPS · ··· (, ,.._: )

__ .. ·-'- . •.>- " . > .

• NATMAPS (Ill Slates) • C.M.A. (N.S.W.J1:25.000 • VICMIPS 1:25.000. 1:50,000 1:50.000. 1:100,000 • FORESTS COMMISSION • LANDS DEPARTMENTS (S.A.J • TASMAPS 1:100.000 1:50,000 Also • COMPASSES • OVERSEAS MAPS • TRAVEL GUIDES & BOOKS • ATLASES • GLOBES

Hours: 9am lo 6pm Weekdays 9am lo lpm Saturdays • Ll PHONE 569 5472

BUSHWALKING EQUIPMENT Good range, good prices, good service

• PACKS - Lowe, Karrimor, Hallmark, Caribee, Jansport, Fairydown • SLEEPING BAGS - Downia, Aurora, Fairydown, silk or cotton inner sheets • TENTS- Fairydown, Hallmark, Bertoni, Caribee, Jansport, Companion • BOOTS - Rossi, Blundstone, Asolo, Dunlop KT Bushwalker, Sorel Caribou,

Zamberlan

• CLOTHING- Hallmark, Peter Storm, Bertoni, Skellerup, Feathertop, Eidex, Superior, Holeproof, Lifa, Swandri, Mountaineer, Tamar, Norsewear, Caribee, japara, Z-Cote, Goretex, No Sweat, thermal underwear, Fibre-Pile, wool shirts, gloves, socks, balaclavas, beanies, down jackets.

• STOVES- Optimus, Trangia, M.S.R., GAZ • Compasses, knives, utensils, accessories, binoculars.

SAM BEAR BUSHWALKING AND CAMPING STORE

225 RUSSELL STREET, MELBOURNE, 3000. PHONE: 663 2191 Between Little Bourke and Lonsdale Streets

30

W87

A JOURNEY THROUGH NORTHERN NSW

Andrew Menk

Another corner of rock is passed. Suddenly a wedge-tailed eagle materialises from behind a treetop, closely followed by another. I am momentarily startled by their closeness, only some twelve or fifteen feet above me. They slip away as gracefully and silently as they appeared.

Soon the track bends back, to wend its way amongst the heath atop the flat summit ridge of Mt Exmouth. I attain the cairn and check my watch: 7.05 pm, a 40 minute ascent. The urgency has been rewarded. Grass trees and stunted heath fill the foreground, and in the distance a jagged jumble of domes and spires are ablaze in a fierce intensity of golden light. For a moment, the hypnotic effect of the scene compels me to watch the performance, then I put my camera to use.

Scene by scene, those wierd monolithic shapes are captured from the driving grip of the late afternoon sun. Erosion begins on those striking surfaces of painted brown and luminous yellow. Minutes pass, and now even the walls of Bluff Mountain succumb to the growing shadows. Reluctantly I prepare to return to Doms Gap and my rather bush-besieged campsite.

I had just spent the previous two weeks on a Club trip to Kosciusco, and •. 1en with relatives in Newcastle. In the following week and a half I had the opportunity to realise my ambition to explore some of the National Parks of northern NSW, in a trip punctuated by diversions to places such as the outstanding vintage car museum at Forster, and the Siding Springs telescope. The venture was favoured by persistently fine weather which had continued since the start of the Kosciusco trip. The National Parks of this area display a considerable variation of fine scenery, from the scattered complex of freshwater lakes in the Myall Lakes park to the geological curiosities of the Mt Kaputar area.

Words such as serene and unspoilt had already been imprinted on my mind prior to negotiating the corrugated camel-track into Myall Lakes. Unfortunately, my first impressions were soured somewhat by the hordes of people that had consumed every vestige of space in the camping areas. Tents had taken root everywhere, and motorboats ploughed the channels and waterways in a discordant fashion. It's not much of an advertisement for a visit in the holiday period.

But Myall Lakes has plenty to offer, especially in its secluded reaches. A narrow coastal strip of vegetated sand dunes protects the vast freshwater lakes system; superb beaches adorn a coastline broken by the occasional rocky bulwark, and the lakes are a haven for numerous birdlife. A walk along any of the 4WD tracks will reveal the many types of trees. Paper barks are common. In parts swampy terrain occurs, whilst mangroves flourish adjacent to the Myall River. Smallish cabbage palms create a mini-forest on the sand dunes, with the setting of a tropical rainforest. There are pleasant walking tracks on the north coast of the Bombah Broadwater, and south of Myall Lake, where the true qualities of the park reveal themselves. Violet Hill is also worth a visit.

31

The New England Tableland will evoke admiration from anyone with an eye for splendid scenery. This is the land of leaping waterfalls and cavernous gorges that shear away from lazy undulations of farmland. Wollomombi Falls, at the head of a huge gorge near Armidale, are the tallest in Australia (457 m). A lookout is not far from the road, and a track leads out to a rocky spur for the best views. The end of a narrow subsidiary canyon is dominated by the thin sliver of Chandler Falls. Take a zoom lens!

The most magnificent gorges in the area are enclosed in the Apsley Gorge National Park. Here the Tia and Apsley rivers plummet spectacularly into deep and rugged ravines. At the Apsley Falls a cleverly constructed viewing platform permits stunning front-on views of the moss-strewn falls without appearing "touristy", whilst short walks can be taken along the gorge rim for breathtaking views. Below the falls exists a small, open area graced by a quaint sandy beach; this is protected by vertical walls of rock on three sides, and a second cataract further down. Further along, the river is compressed between steepening cliffs that bound the immense abyss. The presence of slate in these cliffs is a good explanation for their steepness.

Tia Falls plunge down an interesting chute through striated cliffs. A second cascade occurs near a sharp river bend, well in the depths of another yawning gulf. I can recall few more invigorating swimming holes on a hot day than those above the falls; here the river wends its way amongst rockslides and numerous boulders before its drop. There are exciting prospects for extended walks along the Tia River Gorge or perhaps in the canyon below Apsley Falls.

The Oxley Highway from Port Macquarie makes a pleasant access route to the New England plains. Another waterfall, Ellenborough Falls, generously repays any side trip made to it, and is reached via Wauchope and Com boyne. Over a descent of 160 metres a pouring, coherent volume of water is transformed into a fine mist, which sustains some very verdant and beautiful patches of rainforest in the adjacent gullies. The base of the falls is a wonderfully peaceful spot in early morning, with the scattering spray negating any need for a shower. The descent (from 100 metres along the lookout track) is a slippery one through a canopy of trees festooned with creepers, and adorned with varied plantlife. From the head ofthe falls ensure your stroll the 300 metres to the fenced lookout, then a further 300 metres to a rocky viewpoint.

After a pleasant drive from Armidale, The New England National Park is reached where the tablelands fall away in a rocky escarpment. A major purpose of this park is to preserve many miles of wilderness - densely vegetated valleys and forested ridges that remain in the same unspoilt and almost impenetrable state they exhibited eons ago. Subtropical rainforest flourishes in the gullies, and temperate rainforest graces the Eagles Nest track. The Antarctic Beech is a highlight. A walk out to the open trachyte plain of Wrights lookout gives rewarding views of the layered basalt flows that have formed the escarpment edge. Point Lookout offers a fine panorama, especially in the early morning when gentle mists shroud the valleys. The Lyrebird track is also pleasant.

In contrast to the basalt and trachyte present at New England, granite is the major rockform of the Cathedral Rock park. Constant weathering has created huge rounded tors reminiscent of the Buffalo Plateau. The

32

Woolpack and Cathedral Rocks both merit visits, and there is plenty of wildlife in the untamed regions of bush. I also had the rare fortune of seeing a couple of wild pigs on one of the walks.

There are a couple more features close to the Cathedral Rock/New England area. These include the picturesque Ebor Falls, and Dorrigo State Park which gives an excellent impression of the more inaccessible hinterland of New England.

Heading westwards, the tablelands are left behind and scattered ranges persist for most of the distance to the Warrumbungles. These are the final bastions before thousands of miles of emptiness to the west. Both the Warrumbungles and Mt Kaputar areas resulted from volcanic activity some 15 million years ago, and the fascinating array of domes, rock peaks, bluffs and spires are impressive testimony to its force.

Approached from Narrabri, the Kaputar plateau represents the remnants of an ancient eroded volcano with evidence of basaltic lava flow and trachyte stills and dykes. There is a curious but informative series of formations of the Dawson Spring nature trail - a graphic illustration of rock pancaking and hexagonal pillars caused by vertical splitting during cooling of the lava. The outstanding attractions of Kaputar include the Governor and the Yulludunida half crater. Ringed by a powerful circle of precipitous cliffs, the Governor is a huge, elevated rock fortress that towers haughtily over forested depths below; it was created by the rather abrupt termination of a basaltic lava flow.

After a short but steep climb, the Yulludunida track ends at the base of a rather dynamic rock ridge. This is easily climbed to where the semi-circular dyke becomes readily apparent; a result of erosion of the softer material within the dyke. Lizards and skinks streak away from beneath my footsteps. Fine views abound, and the distant ranges flaunt long cliff lines, whilst a summit cairn rewards conquerors. Grasstrees and delicate wildflowers introduce a special charm to a place of already irresistible beauty. It is easy to appreciate the brutal solidarity of the fortification beneath my feet, and impossible to resist the compulsion to follow the reddish catwalk of a ridge along its entirety.

Elsewhere in Kaputar there are other impressive features - The Bundabilla circuit, various road lookouts, the refreshing and ancient grass trees atop Mt Coryok, Sinclair Peak (attainable after a short rock climb* and more. Many longer walks could be undertaken, and a climb up the prominent cliff-ringed column near the park entrance would appear to prove most entertaining.

Fascinating rock formations, lava plains, bluffs, volcanic dykes, views and diverse flora and fauna all characterise a visit to Kaputar, given good weather. The Warrumbungles also abounds in breathtaking scenery, typically in the form of trachyte plugs made prominent by the shattering (during volcanic explosions) and erosion of material around them. I found it an exhilarating experience to visit some of the peaks in the calm of late afternoon. Such was the case for Belougery Split Rock, Mt Exmouth and Fans Horizon, all delightful little walks. Here I watched spellbound as fantastic light shows were played out - a brilliant illumination with spires as actors and the sun as their laser, etching out countless tones of striking yellows and muted browns, tinted with hues of red.

33

The Grand High Top circuit is the most scenic walk in the park, and there are many worthwhile sidetrips to spectacular lookouts. Bress Peak, on the turnoff to Brigit Peak, offers excellent close-hand views of the Breadknife and its associated formations, whilst the High Tops oversees the various sculptures from the other side. The jagged serration of the Breadknife is particularly dominant, but it is matched by the imposing vertical uplift of Crater Bluff. Several fine viewpoints enhance the circuit; the precipitous face of Bluff Mountain dwarfs passers-by with its vastness. All­encompassing panoramic views of the Warrumbungles are available from the lofty plateaus of Bluff Mountain and Mt Exmouth. The "pancake" plains out west are boundless. The best campsite up high would be Ogma (no water) and an inspection of the stately Cathedral Arch should not be missed. There is an abundance of kangaroos and wallabies in the park, along with emus and plentiful birdlife. Many kangaroos frequent the camping areas.

Once the domes and crags of the Warrumbungles had disappeared in the distance, my trip had effectively ended. But that sensational scenery had spawned another lure - the promise of Lamington, Glen Innes, Brisbane and other oases further north. will see the bait taken.

Acacia uerticillata

CHANGES AT CRADLE MOUNTAIN­LAKE STCLAIR NATIONAL PARK

Keith Lierse

Intending visitors should be aware of some recent minor changes in the Cradle Mountain- Lake StClair National Park. These notes were prepared as a result of a visit during April 1986.

At Cradle Valley , Lake Dove now boasts a very expensive public toilet estimated to cost $80 000. The camping area on Lilla Creek is unchanged, and the nearest shop is at Cradle Mountain Lodge, some 6 km away.

On the Overland Track, Waterfall Valley Hut has been repaired but has no heater or bunks. Cirque Hut now has only one heater, and a heater has been installed at Windy Ridge Hut. The old Pine Valley Hut has been demolished to make way for a new one erected on the same site, and completed on 8 April 1986. The new hut sleeps 24, has a heater and toilet hut. Cirque, Windermere, Pelion, Kia-Ora, Windy Ridge and Pine Valley Huts have helicopter pads and coal dumps. DuCane Hut has been neglected and is in poor condition.

Lake St Clair boasts a modern Toilet and shower block, with free washing machines and clothes dryer. Supplies are available at the kiosk, or a brisk 6 km walk to the Derwent Bridge Hotel on the Lyell Highway will enable the dedicated walker to quench his thirst, and have an excellent meal at a reasonable price.

34

A WEEKEND EXCURSION INTO THE ANDES

Alex Voltan

I have a bad habit of overestimating my abilities. On this occasion it was to provide the spice that made a mountain descent somewhat interesting.

When I conceived the idea of travel in the Andes I made a point of visiting and consulting with the various clubs in the area, and in Santiago that meant a visit to the Federacion Andinismo de Chile in Calle Simpson. Here Agustin Ramos offered to take me for an excursion to El Pin ton (The Painter), a peak in excess of 4000m in height.

Besides the usual gear required for any trip, I needed crampons and expedition cross country skis. I had neither of these, but hired a pair of downhill skis for the three days (at an outrageous A$50). This trip involved some traversing of snow and ice fields and the skis were for the descent. As Santiago is only 50km away, another optional item is a personal AM/FM receiver, so that one may listen to Madonna, Dire Straits, Julio (ugh!) etc. on any one of the plethora of FM stations in Santiago whilst making that final ascent up a 6000m peak, or whilst weathering out a blizzard in one's tent. It is also useful for getting one's mind off the numbing cold as one looks down on the lights of the city from 3500m up. Try that in the Himalayas!

It was a very late start on Friday evening. After hiring my skis and strapping them to my pack, it was up through the snowfield, sinking into the snow up to our knees in the darkness (although the moon provided some light). At IOpm we bivouaced for the night in the shelter of some rocks, only a few hundred metres from where we had started. Agustin was listening to his stereo, something he was to do for most of the trip. We used the ftyofmytent as a cover for the sleeping bags, to prevent them from freezing up during the night.

The next morning we tried on our skis. The slope up seemed beyond my capabilities so it was up in ski boots instead. Agustin cross country skied up, simply by changing his bindings from downhill to cross country mode. When we came to a poma ski lift, we hitched a ride to a point where we could climb up to a saddle at 300m for lunch.

Agustin's pack felt heavy when I assisted him in putting it on, and in the morning I could see why. Aside from the skis and mountaineering boots, he also carried a tonne of food in tins. Coq au vin, lentil soup, creme of asparagus ... a real gourmet selection; he even had raw eggs and a kilo of sugar! All this weight was to lead to subsequent back problems, and halfway up the ice field after lunch he stopped to say he had an idea. The idea was to make camp back at the saddle, leave the gear we didn't need for the ascent, and continue the next day. This was to prove an excellent idea as my feet were sick of ski boots (no substitute for crampons but better than walking boots of dubious grip on ice), and Sonoche was taking its effect on my cardio-vascular system.

Pitching tents is different here than in Australia. Up here above the vegetation line the soil is made up of shattered rock and forms a very hard surface. Tent pegs simply bend rather than go into the earth, so the tent is held down by placing the peg flat on the ground and building a cairn over it to

35

hold it in place. It is very secure, and can hold the tent in the winds that can rage here at night.

After a short nap I awoke with all the symptoms of a terrible hangover -stiff neck, headache, and eyes feeling like they were being pulled from their sockets. My heart was pounding and I was gasping for air. I was also very cold. Staying down until the next day was definitely a good idea.

That night the seemingly perpetual smog bank that obliterated any view of the Andes from Santiago (and vice versa) lifted to reveal a galaxy of twinkling lights. From these immense mountains one felt like a giant looking down on a fairyland.

Next morning and with lighter packs we made our way up the traverse, Agustin making the steps and I following. It was really quite easy, and we stopped several times for photos. However, the temperature was something else; in the sun it was quite hot, but in the shade it was numbingly cold.

When we reached a false peak we looked down 500m to our camp below. The khaki tent blended into the surroundings and was hard to pick out, which satisfied Agustin as to the security of our belongings. We then hid our skis as there was no snow field to cross on the relatively flat path which took us up to the top of La Parva, a weather worn peak not far from El Pin ton itself. My pack was very light and the slope relatively easy, but my enthusiastic pace resulted in another bout of Sonoche, and soon I was flat out again! Agustin said it was unwise to proceed up an even higher peak (La Parva is 4000m above sea level) and suggested a long rest and back down.

Anyway, on the way down we met two of Agustin's friends who were equipped for snow caves and some terrible weather. They also had enormous packs bristling with gear: a full fledged expedition. One, however, one of them raised the ire of Agustin by talking too much: there is a saying in Chile that those who talk too much also die soon!

We later put on our skis to descend the slope we had come up, and it was here that my overestimation of my abilities got the better of me. Ordinarily I am a fair to good skier on gentle slopes with no pack to throw me off balance. This slope was near vertical, I was carrying a ten kilo pack and worse, I neglected to put on my gloves. Having decided it was too steep (after falling several times) I strapped the skis to the pack and walked down wearing ski boots. Ski boots do not provide the grip in thick ice and so I found myself tumbling uncontrollably down the face. Agustin must have been horrified by what he saw as I tumbled down the ice face at ever increasing speed. By some miracle my skis dug into the ice and braked my descent. The next problem was my right hand. As a result of burns I had received at the beginning of the year my right hand was sensitive to the cold. It was giving me agony and my cursing gave Augustin some concern. However when it warmed up again and there was no bruising (meaning no frostbite) and so to dinner and another exquisite view at the lights of Santiago from the heights.

On Monday we returned down to the car and enjoyed a bit of a ski down a much gentler slope to the village. There, after returning my skis and retrieving my passport, I saw one of the skiers reading The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy. Then I remembered I had brought a towel with me ... the only item I had not used on the entire trip in South America!

36

TRACK NOTES These track notes are published to assist both new and experienced

walkers. Every effort is made to ensure their accuracy, but Walk accepts no responsibility for misinterpretations by the reader, or for changes in track conditions and descriptions. And please be warned: information given in these notes will become out of date as man-made features come and go. Walk will be pleased to receive corrections and amendments to these notes.

Permission should always be sought prior to crossing private land. Walkers should always carry map and compass, appropriate clothing and first aid equipment. A reliable person not going on the walk should know your plans, party size and expected time of return.

THE WONNANGATTA-MOROKA AREA

One day: South east of Bryces Gorge Features: Excellent view points, numerous alpine wild flowers in

January, and several red rock outcrops, terraces and ledges which in places project out above the void.

Standard: Easy. Best Seasons: December-March, particularly early January. Distance: 9.5 km. Time: 4 hours. Map: Snowy Plans 1:63,360 Water: Carry a small quantity. Transport: Private; no car shuffle.

Leave vehicles at the junction of the Howitt Road and the Carey Creek logging road, 62 km north ofLicola (GR793704). Walk SSE across the plateau to the edge of the red scarp. There are numerous sun orchids of differing colours in this region. Continue down slightly over the red sandstone slabs and out to the furthest point SSE, commanding an excellent view over the northern heads of Carey Creek and across to The Watchtower (GR799696). There are about three vantage points in this area. Walk north along the scarp edge, and as the edge curves right continue north east until you reach the Carey Gap logging road (3 km).

Turn right, follow the road to a U bend (4 km), just prior to the point where the road starts to descend steeply. From the U bend, walk uphill through light snow gum forest north east then east to a red rock scarp. Follow the edge SSE to a high knob (1540 metres).

Continue 100 metres further to a lower viewpoint with a better view north to the Conglomerate Creek country, then twenty metres further on to a rocky terrace - good view - then thirty metres on to a still lower rocky knoll which affords excellent views of Mt Darling Range, The Watchtower and Mt Kent Range, towards the great bowl of Bryces Gorge and the eastern face of the Snowy Range scarp. An excellent view framed by sturdy snow gums (4.5 km, GR793704).

Return along the red scarp with the edge on the right. Continue in the same general direction, NNW. Drop down to a lower platform for excellent views ofBryces Gorge, then return to the scarp edge. At the point where the spur plunges more steeply down NNW, follow the contour line south west

37

crossing a steep gully. Then climb north west to a high point overlooking Bryces Gorge. Good views (6.5 km, GR803720). There is an excellent view over the Bryces Gorge track, down to Conglomerate Creek 500 metres below.

Walk south west for 700 metres to reach the Howitt Road (8 km). Turn left, and walk south along the road back to the transport (9.5 km). A good walk with many fine views, but no tracks to follow.

Features:

Standard: Distance: Time: Map: Water:

Fred Halls, 14 February 1985.

One day : Along the Snowy Range

Good views across the Caledonia River valley towards Mt Clear and Mt Magdala, and over the Carey country to The Watchtower and Snowy bluff. High plains walking along the Racecourse Plain. Medium. 18km. 6-7 hours. Snowy Plans 1:63,360 Good water is obtainable from the Mt Lookout Creek, down the slopes just south of the car park.

Transport: Private; no car shuffle. Leave vehicles at a car park located just south of the Snowy Plains airfield,

and just west of the Howitt Road (GR786656). The caravan nearby is the summer headquarters of the Wonnangatta-Moroka National Park Ranger. Following the southern airfield fence (GR795657) eastwards, and from several suitable vantage points, view through binoculars the Carey country and the beautiful rocky outcrops, cliffs, clefts and spires of The Watchtower massif. Follow the eastern airfield fence north, and from other rocky ledges further north east there are more good views of the Carey Creek valley (1.5 km). From a point just further north, cross diagonally south west to the airfield northern fence close to the Howitt Road.

Return towards Lookout Creek and on the way turn right on to the airfield east-west runway (3 km). Follow a wheel track west for 300-400 metres, to a vantage point on the grassy high plain above the East Caledonia River valley. There are good views across the valley towards high mountains in the north west including The Bluff, Mt Clear, Mt Magdala and No.2 Divide. Return to Lookout area (4.5 km). Cross the creek along the cattle track just below the dam, head south then SSW along the jeep track and cattle trail, almost over the top of Mt Lookout, 1649 metres (GR783646). This is a pleasant walk along the cattle trail through typical high plains country (Racecourse Plain).

At the point where the track turns sharply left (south east) look for a track junction (GR776631). From this point, walk north west across country for 2 km to a high point above cliffs affording good views along the East Caledonia River gorge. On the route it may be necessary to deviate slightly southwards away from an intervening shallow gully, later returning to the original line of the route (high point GR76164t). Return to the track junction (11.5 km). From there, follow the trace ESE then east to the Howitt Road, crossing Shaws Creek shortly before (12.5 km, GR787630).

Walk east, after a short distance reaching the north-south trending scarp of the Snowy Range overlooking the Carey Creek valley. The route north

38

along the edge of the dark red terraced scarp reveals many good views of Surveyors and Carey Creek valleys, The Watchtower plateau and the top of distant Snowy Bluff from a least a dozen viewpoints. In fact, views in an easterly direction are almost continuous for long distances south of Lookout Creek. The terraced rock gardens reveal numerous varieties of showy alpine plants.

Lookout Creek Falls are situated 700-800 metres ENE below the point above which the southern head of Lookout Creek has gouged a deep bowl from red-brown cliffs (GR798648). The falls plunge 100 metres vertically from the reddish cliffs. On reaching the high point, a rocky outcrop where the ridge drops steeply, look for an easier way down east to a rough cliff area where a view point may be found high on a rough red-brown outcrop (16 km, GR803648). Whether the Lookout Creek Falls can be seen clearly depends on the recent rains affecting the rate of stream flow, and on the rate of regrowth ofwoollybutt forest, logged about 15-20 years ago. When last observed, the woolly butt regrowth in Carey country east of Mt Lookout was phenomenal, and it was almost impossible to walk through such dense timber. However, good views should be obtained from one of the rocky outcrops of the wild Carey Creek valley, 900 metres deep. These are the best of the Moroka waterfalls, but difficult to observe. Walk uphill WNW through open forest to return 2 km to the Howitt Road. Turn right and return to transport. A good walk, enabling numerous good views from the Snowy Range (18 km).

Fred Halls, 14 February 1985.

One day: The Mt Reynard circuit

Features: High plains walking. Good views. A flowering garden of plants during early January.

Standard: Easy-medium. Distance: 19.5 km. Time: 6 hours. Map: Snowy Plans 1:63,360 Transport: Private; no car shuffle.

Leave the transport vehicle near the spot where a Carey Creek logging road leaves towards the west from the Howitt Road, 4 km north of Arbuckle Junction (GR793610). Walk west along the Howitt Road. After a short distance look for high plans on the left, south west towards a watercourse (a Shaws Creek head).

On reaching Shaws Creek itself, cross at a suitable spot and walk upstream. Shortly after, cross a gravel road, continue following a track along the south bank through The Gorge. Where the stream turns sharply, coming from the north, look for a well-defined track on the left (south) (The Valley, 3 km). At this point follow the distinct track south into the range gap (grassy saddle). Here the track turns left, but at this point (at the small grassy flat) look for a faint track leading west uphill (GR771609). This track is very difficult to find, but should be followed west then north west to the summit of Mt Reynard, 1710 metres (5.5 km, GR750610). There are good views all round from the grassy summit.

Continue west along the Red Spur. After about 1 km turn south west, walk out 800 metres to the projecting rocky outcrop affording views of the distant

39

PHOTO: JOPIE BODEGRA VEN

40

Long Hill country (6.5 km, GR740604). Return to the range gap (10 km). Continue east along the four wheel drive track uphill by way of the flower­decked red rock terraces on the divide (1525 metres) between Tin Bucket and Shaws Creeks (GR775606). Good views over The Gorge, Holmes Plain, the Carey country and out towards Mt Arbuckle (10.5 km).

Continue down along the track through the snow gums to Kellys Hut, a comfortable cattlemen's hut situated on the edge of Holmes Plain (12 km). Follow the track east across Holmes Plain and around the northern slopes of Mt Arbuckle. Climb south to the summit for good views at 1685 metres (16 km). Return to the track, descend to the Howitt Road and return NNW along that road to the transport vehicle.

Fred Halls, 12 February 1985.

SNOWY RIVER SIDE GORGES

Features: Rockhopping, cascades, little known waterfalls, water­sculptured rocks, swimming in aesthetic rock pools.

The Snowy River near McKillops Bridge has carved a deep valley as it flows southward. Its bed is below 200 metres elevation but on either side plateaux rise to over 1200 metres elevation. Several creeks and small rivers drain the plateaux then rush down to join the Snowy via scenic but little known gorges. Tucked away in these gorges is a wonderland of waterfalls, cascades and sculptured water-worn rocks, accessible to the adventurous bush walker. Rising on the west we have Little River, the largest and deepest gorge, Wulgulmerang Creek, Boundary Creek and Currie Creek. Rising on the east we have Mt Gelantipy Creek, which I have so named for reference because it rises on Mt Gelantipy but is not named on the 1 : 100,000 Natmap. Also rising on Mt Gelantipy but flowing north to join the Deddick near McKillops Bridge is Minchin Creek. Some of the smaller tributary creeks may also be worth exploring. Standard: As these gorges involve off-track walking you may wonder what the vegetation is like. The area is fairly dry, the Snowy Valley being in a rain shadow here, and the vegetation is consequently fairly open and easy to walk through. The exception is blackberries which tend to line the lower sections of the creeks and much of the Snowy itself. Luckily the better sections of the creeks are relatively free of them.

The main problems are the rocks and topography. You need to be confident on rocks to cope with and enjoy these creeks, although only Little River requires an abseil. Mt Gelantipy Creek can be done as a long day trip with day pack, from a walk-in base camp on the Snowy. Boundary and Currie Creeks can be done as day trips. At least two or three days with packs are required to explore Little River. Map: Natmap 1 : 100,000 Murrindal. Transport: Private. Car shuffles can be avoided if necessary.

Two days :Little River Gorge This is the biggest and deepest in the area. It also requires a 45m rope for

one abseil. Starting from the road bridge, the gorge can be done as a two day trip, climbing out to the Bluff from about GR181932. This is steep but requires no rockclimbing. The abseil is at about GR168956, and a rough campsite for

41

42

maybe five small tents could be made just downstream of Wulgulmerang Creek on the south bank.

Blackberries are an irritant on the route down to the abseil; downstream of the abseil they are thick at times and somewhat of a problem, but the gorge is well worth the inconvenience. Highlights include the touristy Little River Falls, good falls at GRI63962, a spectacular series of falls below the abseil, a beautiful fall about 200 metres downstream of Wulgulmerang Creek, and numerous smaller waterfalls. Some places require either some basic rockwork to avoid pools, or alternatively the pools can be waded.

Allow two hours for a side trip up Wulgulmerang Creek. It has a very pretty lower fall, clearly visible from the lookout off the McKillops Bridge Road, and a very spectacular main fall where the creek drops into a huge rock amphitheatre from the plateau above. To get to this requires either an awkward route past the lower fall, or a fairly simple climb up a spur from Little River which brings you to the same place above the lower fall. From there the main fall is just around the corner.

Downstream of the climb to the Bluff the river is fairly flat with lots of blackberries, wading and rockhopping. There are numerous campsites in this section. There is also good camping down by the Snowy.

One day : Boundary Creek This can be done as a long day from a base camp on the creek just

downstream of the road. Do a short car shuffle leaving one car at GR127896

after checking with the farmer. Start from the road at the bend at GRIOS905

and follow the spur to the creek. This cuts off llh km of mediocre creek. The first really good falls are at GR1 20908. The best section starts at GRI:l9907

and continues at least to where we pulled out at GRIS788:l. I would expect that it would be worthwhile at least down to the bend at GR176978. A suggestion which would avoid any car shuffle would be to start at GR127896. Follow the spur north east, dropping steeply to the creek near the start of the best section mentioned earlier, and leave the creek at GR176978 via the spur back to the St Helena track. This would be a long day but a rewarding one.

Half or one day : Currie Creek Check with the farmer before crossing farmland here. The upper part from

GR117882 to GR142870 contains many delightful small waterfalls which can often be downclimbed by the more adventurous or always easily bypassed. We did this section as a half day trip climbing out via the spur heading WSW. The creek would probably be worthwhile down to Gelantipy Creek, climbing out due west up the long spur to make a solid day trip.

One day: Mt Gelantipy Creek This is a top class creek with some really good waterfalls. We did this creek

as a tough twelve hour day trip from a base camp set up on the Snowy at the end of the Campbell Knob track (GR215818). Ordinary cars can normally be driven over paddocks to where the track dives down the spur at GR168822.

There is nothing very difficult in this trip except that it is a long tiring day, so start very early and take torches just in case.

Paddle across the Snowy on lilos just above the rapids to where the opposite bank slopes steeply to the river. Any further upstream and you will

43

be faced with an impenetrable barrier of blackberries on the east bank. Following spurs and with careful navigation reach the summit at GR225845. Descend to the creek at GR222825.

Almost immediately the creek plunges down in an impressive series of waterfalls and the standard is high all the way to GR204838. Here blackberries start choking the creek, so climb through open rocky forest to the knoll at GR205835 from where you get good views westward. Follow the spur SW, then SE. You can't get to the Snowy due to blackberries. Walk on the uphill side of the blackberries back to the lilos using cattle tracks to get you through the blackberries along the two creeks to be crossed.

One day: Minchin Creek This is a pretty creek with many lovely small cascades and waterfalls,

although not as spectacular as some of the others. A good day trip is to start at Deddick Park farm after seeking the farmer's permission. Follow the creek up to the Bowen Track and return via it and the Deddick Track to Deddick Park, cutting across farmland from GR266926.

Jopie Bodegraven, 1986.

SKI TRAILS OF MT STIRLING Features: Situated just 230 km north east of Melbourne and 14 km from Merrijig, Mt Stirling offers some of the best cross country skiing close to Melbourne. Its combination of cleared long downhill runs and interesting trails through the surrounding forests provides opportunities for all cross country skiers. With more than 75 km of marked trails, many days of skiing can be enjoyed. However, Mt Stirling is not high enough to guarantee good snow throughout winter, and this is especially the case on the lower slopes where the snow can lie for only a few weeks. Access: The main turnoff to Mt Stirling is from the Mt Buller Road at Mirimbah. Car parking is available at Telephone Box Junction, where there is a Visitor Centre including public shelter, changing rooms, Medical Centre, and Ski Patrol Base plus kiosk. In 1986 entrance fees to the area were introduced at $4.00 per car for one day, $4.80 overnight.

In front of the Visitor Centre there is an intentions book, in which it is good sense to enter the details of your trip, especially if you are staying out overnight. The death of two skiers in 1985 testifies to the dangers of bad weather and inexperience in alpine areas.

The area offers excellent cross country skiing for all - enjoy it while you can! Regrettably, Mt Stirling is to be developed as Victoria's next downhill resort. As these 'developments' occur many of the cross country ski trails will disappear. Map: Alpine Resorts Commission 1 : 25,000 Stirling Cross Country Ski Trails, available from the Ranger Station.

Half day: Telephone Box Junction -Razorback Trail - Circuit Track

From Telephone Box Junction follow the Razorback Trail. It climbs up gently through beautiful messmate forest for about 500 metres before a

44

junction is reached. Take the right fork sign posted Hut Trail, another 1 km further on the track opens out into alpine plain. Shelter is available here at Razorback Hut if needed. Continue north along Hut Trail until Circuit Road crosses the track at another open area. Turn right (east) for a pleasant 2 km downhill run into King Saddle. From the Saddle it's about 10 minutes down the road to Telephone Box Junction. The trail is fairly well marked throughout. This trip is about 7 km and should take approximately llh to 2 hours for moderately experienced skiers, but it is also a good trip for learners who like some excitement.

One day : Stirling Trail -Mt Stirling - Bluff Spur Trail

From Telephone Box Junction ski up the road to King Saddle. A good ski slope is situated here for practising your turns, stops and falls. From the Saddle turn right and follow the Stirling Trail up past some toilets. The track climbs steadily but zigzags up the steepest sections. The track climbs quite steadily up to the snow gum level. After about llh hours the Geelong Grammar School Hut will be reached. The summit of Mt Stirling is approximately 500 metres to the south. There are excellent, expansive slopes clear of trees for some of the best downhill skiing on the mountain.

For the return journey it is interesting to return via Bluff Spur Hut Trail. Climb to the summit for expansive views of the Victorian Alps, one of the best views in the Alps. The marked trail turns west and descends quickly back into the trees. An ability to control your skis is essential here due to the trees and several sharp turns on the way down. There is a new shelter hut being built on a shoulder of Mt Stirling near the junction of Link Trail and Bluff Spur Trail (expected to be completed 1987). It's approximately 2 km back to Telephone Box Junction. Good intermediate trip.

Two days: Stirling Trail- Mt Stirling - Clear Hills Trail- Bluff Spur Trail

There are ample opportunities for overnight trips in the area. Camping out in the snow brings with it the opportunity to explore further. However, anyone preparing to camp out overnight should ensure that their equipment is up to it and that there is at least one experienced snow camper in the party.

The suggested trip commences the same as the preceding day trip. However, as packs are being carried it may take a little longer. From the Geelong Grammar Hut ski across the bottom ofthe slope to the beginning of the Clear Hills Trail (signposted). The trail descends steeply, especially when on skis. However, with care the bottom is soon reached. From the saddle the trail climbs up to The Monument and then out north east towards Clear Hills. The descent from the Monument is also quite steep.

There are ample good places to camp. If the weather is clear none is more spectacular than at Clear Hills. The return trip is along the same route. Note that the marked trail stops at Clear Hills. The return trip can be made down Stirling Trail or Bluff Spur Trail.

Very good intermediate to advanced trip for experienced skiers.

Philip Taylor, September 1986

45

PHOTO: FRED HALLS

46

THE GRAMPIANS

Double Head Mountain, Black Range Caves, Rainbow Caves, Natural Bridge

Transport: Private, no car shuffle. To Cherrypool on the Glenelg River, about 17km north from Glenisla on the Henty Highway and 9km south from Brimpaen Junction.

Double Head Mountain and Black Range Caves: From Cherrypool follow the Black Range Road, a very sandy road, 6-7km west to H.G.H. Corner then north and north-west 6km to another road junction. Turn left and another 1.6km come to another three-way track junction.

From the track junction turn left (south east) and continue to Black Range picnic ground. Leave the transport. Walk SSE to the Black Range 2 Cave. This is a good cave protected by a safety screen. Ascend a few metres to the ridge top. Follow the well-marked (white paint) track SSW then south west towards Double Head Mountain. Nearing the rocky outcrops look for a somewhat obscure track leaving left climbing steeply to the left and eventually to the top of Double Head Mountain. Continue on southerly to the other peak. Return by the same route.

To reach the other caves, scramble over the rocks and follow obscure tracks ahead and to the right to the overhangs and cliffs sheltering Black Range Caves 3, 4, and 5. Return to the picnic ground by the same route. Total distance 4km.

Rainbow Caves and Natural Bridge: Leave the transport at the track junction, walk north 200 metres, leave the sandy road and walk ENE, cross two small creeks, then the terrain becomes scrubby and sometimes swampy. After about lkm reach the southern side of a rocky spur running easterly; shortly afterwards come to a long overhang divided into five caves, the Rainbow Caves, where each cave is of a different colour scheme: bluish, red, orange, grey, green, etc., the colour of the rock strata or the lichen attached thereon.

The fifth cave to the right adjoins the large Black Range Natural Bridge, situated slightly south. Continue east scrambling onto the rocky spur, follow the sharp ridge easterly to a peak with a good view of Double Head Mountain and the Black Range. Return by the same route. Approximate return distance 3.5km.

Three short walks from Flat Rock Picnic Ground Walk 1: Follow the track to Mt. Zero and return (1.5km). Walk 2: Follow a route southerly around the right hand side of a large

sandstone slab to the Devils Kitchen, a very large and spectacular sandstone overhang; or it may be reached from a sandy road to the west of the overhang.

Walk 3: Follow a marked track (white paint splashes) up Flat Rock ramp south easterly to Flat Rock (good views). There are many natural gardens among the rocks during October-November. Continue south then south east descending from the scarp. Follow a good track southerly under the huge Stapleton overhang, later climbing up through rocks and scrub to a well-marked track junction. There are many good orchids growing here in October.

47

Turn left and follow a sometimes obscure track to the rocky plateau summit of Mt Stapleton for a magnificent view, in an environment of rough rocks, plateau tarns and rocky waterholes.

Continue north west and NNW along the narrow rocky ridge, but only if your nerve is reasonably good. Soon (lkm) arrive at a deep rocky cleft athwart the ridge. Continue across (but only if you are sure on heights) to nearly the north end of the ridge (View Point), where there is another magnificent view. Scramble down into the View Point caves via a hole in the roof of those caves, descending through the attic, the mezzanine floor and into the lower cave, then crawling out into the sunshine.

Outside look for a rough track leading northerly back to the road near Flat Rock Cave. Turn left (west) and return to Flat Rock Picnic Ground. Distance 7 or 8 km depending on whether you visit Flat Rock Cave or not. An excellent walk.

Buandik Aboriginal Shelters A few hundred metres south of Glenisla on the Henty Highway, turn left

(east) and proceed 5km to the Red Rock Junction. Turn right, and after a short distance turn left at a sign posted junction (aboriginal caves) and after crossing Cultivation Creek (steep slopes) arrive at another track junction. Turn left, and after about 1.5km arrive at Buandik Picnic Ground situated to the left on Cultivation (or Billiminah) Creek. This is the car park 400-450 metres below the most important aboriginal rock shelter in Victoria.

A good sign posted track leaves from there, leading uphill to Glenisla Rock (or Initiation Rock). Total distance lkm.

Hollow Mountain from Buandik Picnic Ground: Note: do not attempt the walk into Hollow Mountain unless you are with someone who has been there before or you have some considerable experience of navigation.

At the last road junction prior to Buandik Picnic Ground (GR134761) cross the Goat Track in an easterly direction. From that point, follow a faint track (or series of tracks) 110 degrees up along the crest of a slightly rising open spur, then continuing through light timber.

The route becomes steeper and rougher, scrub becoming denser. The top of the spur becomes more rocky, keep to the more open terrain just left (north of the ridge).

Continue still 110 degrees, climbing steeply, sometimes through fairly thick scrub. Avoid any well-worn tracks well down off the ridge. Keep just to the left of the rocks just below the ridge top. In places the route passes through rough thickets of native pine, then later the ridge top becomes very broken; keep just to the left as high as possible without traversing the broken top, keeping on at 110 degrees.

Later a slightly worn pad traverses a grove of native pine to the left of a rock wall, then slightly swinging to the right (south west or south). Great care must be taken with navigation in this section; it is very easy to walk past the turnoff up to the ridge. You are walking through more open country but heading towards the side of a very rocky ridge. You are heading towards a niche in the range where the ridge turns left. As you approach the foot of the

48

Hollow Mountain, Billiwing PHOTO: FRED HALLS

ridge top you will notice faint worn patches on the large rocks at the bottom of the niche. Follow these up. It is like ascending a natural stairway.

Near the top you will notice an opening in the slanting rock strata. This is the top entrance to the large cave below Hollow Mountain.

After about 2.5-3 km you will arrive at Hollow Mountain. It will seem much further than that (GR149756). There is an excellent view from the ridge above the cave.

It is amazing to see the results of nature's giant forces so vividly displayed in this unique spot. Here is a great cavern wind-blown clear through the entire mountain top, and consisting of a large, lower chamber at least 39 metres long by 27 metres wide and 9 metres high. The sandstone walls and the roof are elaborately carved by the winds of the past into an amazing fretwork of dark green, yellow, orange, green and talc white sandstone.

There is also a medium large upper chamber, a mezzanine floor and a rocky ramp connecting the main and upper chambers where the wind blows through in chilly fashion. What a weird place it is with the chilly fog drifting between the fancy scrolls, shelves and terraces. There are also many small heaps of grotesque debris which have fallen from the roof onto the cavern floor, reminding us that the eroding process is still continuing inside this peak.

Facing southwards through the arched roof of Hollow Mountain, the view is mainly of Red Cave Mountain about 900 metres distant across the valley. Return along the outward route to the rock wall, then approximately 290 degrees. Return walk 5-6 km.

49

Red Cave Mountain from Hollow Mountain Carefully scramble down from the front of the Hollow Mountain cave

(south). Continue south through the dense scrub. The route is rough and the terrain somewhat broken. Half way across the valley Red Cave Mountain (Hollow Mountain ?2) appears like a large natural bridge silhouetted against the blue sky; if anything even more spectacular than the other.

It is a very time-consuming journey across the valley from Hollow Mountain to Red Cave Mountain, and it is difficult to climb into the cave. There are not one but two vents through the top of this hollow red mountain, and there is an excellent view from the top. The total return journey back to Buandik Picnic Ground would be 8km.

Chimney Pot Plateau Map: Royal Australian Survey Corps 1:100,000 Grampians Sheet 7323.

The Chimney Pots (or The Temple) are situated towards the southern end of the Victoria Range. From several nearby high points they appear like chimney pots protruding from the range top, hence the name.

It is my belief that the name The Temple refers to the high rock stack directly above the Chimney Gap, while the Chimney Pots (GR104632) is situated north east and about 2.5-3km away from Chimney Gap (approximate position GR090610). The elevation of the Chimney Pots is about 920m. The direct route to The Temple summit was first climbed within the last twenty years.

Approach from the Henty Highway at Woohlpooer. Follow the Victoria Valley Road 8-9km south east from the Henty Highway. At the western end

Chimney Pots PHOTO: FRED HALLS

50

of the gap, the southern end of the Victoria Range Track ascends the range steeply; it is a rough, wet and often slippery 4-wheel-drive track.

During a normal spring the native plants blooming in this section are magnificent with the flaring magenta of showy bauera, purple bladderworts, hairy boronia, sundews and swamp heath etc. At about 4km look for a feasible route south east across the rocky, scrubby plateau to the highest Chimney Pot situated about lkm across the plateau.

There are several other stacks (sandstone outcrops) worth climbing. In places there are very good views but the going is rough with hard branched scrub and steep rocky surfaces. Take care climbing some of the Pots, the route can be dangerous.

The return trip is lOkm plus from Chimney Gap, the distance depending on the number of Chimney Pots (stacks) that are climbed.

The Camp of the Emus Foot At the other end (north) of the Victoria Range, the Camp of the Emus Foot (Janang-en-yawi-ye) is situated under the smooth overhang below colourful sandstone cliffs.

A few hundred metres south of Glenisla on the Henty Highway turn left (east) and proceed 5km to the Red Rock Junction. Turn left onto the Red Rock Road and proceed north.

After a further 4. 7km park the transport vehicle near a sandy track leaving to the right (east). Walk 5km ESE along the sandy track to a track junction. During spring the track passes between head-high dusky pink calytrix, numerous plants of the blue tinsel lily and through avenues of the rare and beautiful slender blue conosperm.

At the track junction turn right and climb several hundred metres on a wide track to the huge shelters facing north east at the foot of the Victoria Range scarp. These beautiful stained overhangs with their vertical stripes of brown, black, red and orange shelter the dark red paintings down below on the creamy sandstone wall.

The rugged scarp is at least 80m high and there are aboriginal paintings at five different places on the creamy smooth wall. Two of the more important shelters are well protected by strong wire screens. Do not deface or damage any markings. The Camp of the Emus Foot is fairly important because of the various figures, the king size lizard men displayed, the unique situation and the huge Totem Stone, the smooth and shining stone where War, the legendary Crow was turned into stone.

Return to the transport vehicle. Total distance lOkm. Fred Halls, 14 August 1986

51

OTHER AREAS

One day: Sugarloaf Peak - Cathedral Range

Features: Ridge top walk with excellent views, scrambling over rocks and one short rock climb.

Standard: Easy-medium. Distance: About 8km. Time: About five hours. Transport: Private cars. Car shuffle required. Map: VMTC Cathedral Range.

Follow the Maroondah Highway over the Black Spur, and turn right into Cathedral Lane about 9km past Buxton. Turn right again on to Little River Road after 3km, and follow this to Cooks Mill Site. Leave some vehicles here, then continue with remaining vehicles up Cerberus Road to the carpark at Sugarloaf Saddle. Leave the cars here.

From Sugarloaf Saddle, climb to the top of Sugarloaf Peak via either of two signposted tracks. Both routes involve a short rock climb, but the Canyon Track is easier than the Wells Cave Track. From the top there are good views all round, including the ridge which forms the remainder of the walk to the north west. Follow the marked track along the ridge until The Farmyard is reached in about 3km. There are several stretches of rock scrambling in this section, and many places suitable for a lunch break with views.

From The Farmyard follow the track north along the range until in about 500 metres a wide saddle is visible below on the right. Head down to the saddle through bracken and open forest, then follow the track east up North Jawbone Peak. Return to the saddle and continue southwards along the track as it leads down a gully to join the steep downhill track to Cerberus Road, and continue on to the end of the walk at Cooks Mill Site.

Hugh Duncan, March 1986

Six peaks in two days: The Baw Baw Plateau

Features:

Standard:

Best season: Distance: Maps:

A unique alpine environment, a plentiful supply of water, good campsites, and a sense of wilderness. This walk should only be attempted by experienced, well equipped parties. It is considered unsuitable for children or school parties. Summer. 18km. VMTC 1:50,000 Baw Baw National Park Natmap 1:100,000 Matlock Sheet 8122 F. Balkau 1:25,000 Baw Baw Plateau

Transport: Private. No car shuffle. A pleasant 2 1/2 to 3 hours drive and only 200km east of Melbourne, the

Baw Baw Plateau has always been a popular area for walkers and more recently, ski tourers.

Deservedly, the Plateau has a reputation for rapid changes in weather­usually for the worst - thick mists, and a general problem of navigation for the unwary. Navigation off tracks is particularly difficult, especially in

52

adverse weather conditions, due to the lack of prominent features, the curious stream flows, thick undergrowth, and the confusing similarity of ridges and valleys. Walkers and ski tourers who visit the Plateau rarely venture off the well known tracks, and the Alpine Walking Track, which traverses the Plateau from Mt Erica to Mt Whitelaw, has become particularly popular.

This article describes a two day walk over the southern part of the Baw Baw Plateau, covering only 18km, climbing six peaks over 1420m, with one day almost entirely off tracks in what can only be described as a pristine wilderness. The six peaks are:

Mt St Phillack Mt Baw Baw Mt St Gwinear

1556m Mt Mueller 1564m Mt Kernot 1509m Mt Tyers

1493m 1425m 1420m

I have traversed this route twice: once in December in fine conditions, except for four hours of extremely heavy rain on the first afternoon, and again in February, which was warm and clear on both days.

Day One: The walk commences at the Mt St Gwinear car park, which is accessed via Moe, Erica and the Thomson Valley Road. A total of nine hours walking, plus lunch, is the minimum time needed to traverse the 9km to the campsite at the Pudding Basin that night.

If the weather is clear, Mt Kernot can be seen clearly from the car park on a bearing of 195 degrees magnetic, with a distinct saddle to the right. From the car park, contour generally west through open scrub for about 1km to meet the beautiful South Cascade Creek. This creek boasts myrtle trees and moss covered rocks reminiscent of some areas of Cradle Mountain in Tasmania.

Leave South Cascade Creek, contouring gently uphill in a westerly direction for about 1km through open forest, then turn south west to intersect the Alpine Walking Track. It is important to accurately identify the saddle at GR397104 above the headwaters of a creek flowing north east to the South Cascade Creek. This saddle has a good campsite, with water about 100 metres to the south west. Packs can be left here for the side trip to Mt Kernot.

The walk to Mt Kernot is relatively easy. Walk about 150 metres south west along the Alpine Walking Track, then on a bearing of 60 degrees magnetic through open forest for about 300 metres. A granite outcrop will be met, which should be skirted on the northern side (the other side ends up in a snow plain of spaghnum moss) and continue through a small saddle up on to the top of Mt Kernot. There is a cleared area on the top of Mt Kernot, but the view is restricted by trees. Return to the packs via the same route.

From the saddle on the Alpine Walking Track, follow a bearing of 230 degrees magnetic for about 600 metres, where an excellent lunch site with ample water is available on a snow plain.

It is essential at this point to gain the ridge which takes you directly to the Western Tyers River. If clear, the spectacular rocky face of Mt Tyers can be used as an aiming point. The last 1km descent to the Western Tyres River will take at least two hours due to the scrub and huge logs, which thwart any sense of progress. The cause of this log debris is probably due to some storm or storms many years ago.

53

Eventually the Western Tyres River is reached. It is beautiful, clear and pollution free. There are no blackberries, just a sense of wilderness in pristine Australian bush. How many have been here before? Probably not very many. Although camping is possible it is not recommended, as it would spoil this little piece of paradise for those who wish to follow and enjoy this unspoiled area.

From the Western Tyres River to Mt Tyers is a horizontal distance of 600 metres and a climb of 240m, on a bearing of 230 degrees magnetic, which takes at least two hours (note: the Mt Mueller shown on Natmap 1:100,000 Matlock is actually Mt Tyers). The lower part of the climb is over logs and through thick scrub, and very steep. After negotiating this part, there are the huge 40m rock faces which, even when dry, it would be foolhardy to climb. The alternatives are to sidle under the rock faces, or to use the substantial diagonal cracks along the faces.

At the top of the rock face, a magnificent view of the eastern end of the Baw Baw Plateau is available, and should not be missed. From this point the climb flattens out to the top ofMt Tyers, which has no view due to trees and scrub.

Mt Mueller is 1200 metres north west ofMt Tyers via a well defined saddle which has some fallen timber lying in it, and is a little difficult to negotiate. Mt Mueller has a flat top and open timber, and it is essential that the high point is reached to validate navigation.

Some 300 metres north west of Mt Mueller through thick undergrowth, a narrow dense stand of tea-tree must be crossed before entering a small saddle. Travelling another 600 metres over a knoll, using well defined wombat tracks, a saddle is crossed at the head of Moondarra Flat. Camping here is difficult as there are not enough cleared spaces, and another 400 metres walk is recommended to the Pudding Basin where excellent campsites, water and fuel are available.

Day Two is a pleasant anticlimax to the rigours of the first day. The 5km Loop Trail is followed to the north side of Mt Baw Baw. The views from Mt Baw Baw extend from the Latrobe Valley, across the Baw Baw Plateau, to the Great Divide peaks of north east Victoria.

The walk to Phillack Junction can now be approached via The Tors on the Alpine Walking Track, or by taking a diversion to the Baw Baw Village area, and travelling on the walking track from the Village.

Phillack Junction offers a good lunch site, with water available at Freemans Flat some 150 metres to the south west, and views to the north east over Mustering Flat and the Great Divide.

From Phillack Junction, follow the Alpine Walking Track over Mt St Phillack, which is signposted, but there are no views. Continue on for another kilometre to a well sign posted junction at Shelter Rock. Follow the route to Mt St Gwinear which is well marked, and is a carpet of flowers in the early summer. The top of Mt St Gwinear gives excellent views to the north east.

From Mt St Gwinear, the car park can be reached either by the well marked trails, or by following the old road which is further north. The road is recommended, as it affords good views over the Thomson Valley on the descent to the car park.

The total distance for Day Two is only 9km (further if Baw Baw Village is visited) and could easily be done in four hours walking. Keith Lierse

54

One day: Rocky Mouth Spur

Murrindindi Falls - Winch Road - Ash Creek - Bull Creek Road -Rocky Mouth Spur - Winch Road - Murrindindi Falls

Features:

Standard: Best season: Distance: Time: Map: Water:

Transport:

Note:

Mixed forest of messmate, manna gum, myrtle beech, blanket leaf, mountain ash and shining gum. Also the thundering roar where the Murrindindi River crashes through the tea-tree and beeches. An environment of great variety. Easy-medium. October-December, also March-April. 15km Actual walking, 5-6 hours. 1:25,000 Klondyke 8023-3-3. Murrindindi River, Ash Creek, Bull Creek, Yellowdindi Creek. Private, no car shuffle. To and from the Murrindindi Falls car park, 4km south of the Xylophone Bridge on the Murrindindi Road. Care should be taken with navigation. Further logging operations in the area may cause considerable route finding problems along the Rocky Mouth Spur.

Leaving the transport vehicle cross the Murrindindi Road, walk south a short distance then continue along the track north east to the Murrindindi Cascades and Falls. Cross the timber bridge and continue north east then north out to the Winch Road (lkm). Follow this earth road steeply down north then east to cross Bull Creek near the bottom of the valley (GR748540 - 2km).

Continue along the track and through a gate to the Bull Creek Road ( G R7 49540 - 2.2km). Turn right and follow that road a short distance, cross Ash Creek (shown on some maps as S Creek) and in a short distance follow the Ash Creek Road to the left (east). Follow that road north east then north and at the second track junction (GR756543), follow the track north east to a creek crossing at GR756546 (4km). Return to Bull Creek Road (5.5km). Turn left and walk south along the valley of Bull Creek.

Avoid the track to the left at GR753525 (7km). Our track climbs along the west side of the valley to a road junction at GR758516 (8km). Care must be taken with navigation from this point onwards to the top of Rocky Mouth Spur because there are many tracks and logging roads not shown on the Klondyke map. Follow steeply up the lesser-used right hand track. At the next track follow the left track south then east, but avoid any further tracks leading too far east.

At the next junction, follow the lesser (more southerly) track, shortly reaching a mainly east-west access road along Rocky Mouth Spur. For some time, the route has been through fine sections of mainly ash forest, in places heavily logged-over with little attempt being made to restore order out of chaos. This area is quite a challenge to successful progress and navigation along Rocky Mouth Spur.

Remember that progress along the spur tracks must eventually be pre­dominantly in a WNW direction.

55

After reaching that access road (9.5km) turn right and follow that track west then WNW through forest, to reach Winch Road at llkm. Avoid the road to the right going over Rocky Mouth Spur, but instead follow Winch Road north then west around the western slopes of the spur above Yellowdindi Creek, where there is good water. Turn right at next track junction (12km) and follow Winch Road north.

For some considerable distance down from the spur, the route is along a soft, leafy track among tall, young ash trees. A void an access track on the right (Rocky Mouth Spur), cross a small creek and soon the roar of the Murrindindi can be heard in the deep valley to the left. Follow the Winch Road steeply down to the point where the Falls track comes in sharply from the left (14.5km). Follow the good track south then west past the falls back to the transport situated at the Falls car park. Distance 15km.

An alternative route from GR758516 would be to follow the left road towards the south east, then follow the Rocky Mouth Spur Road towards Winch Road and complete the walk as before (16km).

Another alternative involves transport to and from the Winch site, near the Winch Road 500 metres north east from the Murrindindi Road (GR730508). Following the Winch Road around the long and short circuits as above, the distance would be 18km and 17km.

Fred Halls, 19 April1986

One day: Upper Jamieson Hut - Mt McDonald ­Clear Creek

Features: An interesting and varied climb, a little-visited mountain top,

Standard: Distance: Maps:

excellent views, wildflowers, grand alpine scenery. Medium. 16.5km with 1100m climbing. Natmap 1:100,000 Howitt, Mansfield. VMTC Watersheds of the King, Howqua & Jamieson Rivers.

Water: Must be carried - none available on this walk. Transport: Private, with a car shuffle. Leave the second car on Clear Creek

Road at the bottom of the track down from The Nobs, just after the road crosses a minor side creek.

This walk begins where Brocks Road swings round a sharp bend, and a steep track angles away down to the Jamieson River. It is reached from Mansfield, Merrijig and the Howqua Track through Sheepyard Flat and 8 Mile Gap. The spot is 1km short of the turn-off to Low Saddle.

Follow the track down to and across the river, and on to Upper Jamieson Hut which is set in a large clearing. Near the hut a small metal sign and some red markers indicate the start of the track to Mt McDonald. Climb steeply up this track, crossing the Low Saddle road after 1km, then another road. A low, ftattish ridge should be reached; next swing sharply right into a logged saddle to meet the second road at a sharp bend. Continue up through the scrub to the next hilltop, then left along a faint logging track to pick up the track on the eastern side of the hill. The objective is a narrow saddle just to the south of this hill.

Once this has been reached, follow the track steeply up all the way to the summit, a distance of about 5km and 900m up from the hut. Some easy

56

scrambling over terraced rock bands is involved, especially near the top. The panoramic views are worth savouring - superb mountains in all directions, including the circular ridge from The Bluff right around to the serrated edge of McDonald itself. Next head west to a smaller peak about lkm away, for impressive views of Eagles Peaks and The Governors. Return via the same route.

After lunch head east along the jagged ridgeline, first along a foot track then a 4WD track. Several kilometres later a small clearing at the base of The Nobs is reached. A side trip to The Nobs adds an extra 180m climb and 3km to the original distance; the reward is good views down into the Macalister River headwaters and also west along the range. They are reached by following the marked Alpine Track up into trees from the roadside cairn. After this optional side trip, the road is followed past a clearing and then steeply down to the Jamieson River and the cars.

Andrew Menk, February 1986

One day: Boobyalla Plateau

Somers Park - Somers Saddle - The Knobs - Boobyalla Saddle -Boobyalla Plateau - Donna Buang

Features:

Standard: Best season: Distance: Time: Map: Water: Transport:

Tall ash and woollybutt on the slopes above Somers Saddle. Some of the best mountain forest and verdant fern gullies in Victoria, sheltering the lush grassy flats of Boobyalla Saddle. Superb multi-age mountain ash, stately woolly­butts (alpine ash), shady blackwoods and dense beech groves. Medium. Climb 700m (2,300 ft). October-December, also March-April. 13km. Actual walking, 5-7 hours. Royal Australian Survey Corps 1:50,000 Juliet. Must be carried - none available on this walk. Private. Car shuffle required. To Somers Park, situated about 7km NNW along the Acheron Way from Acheron Gap; from Mt Donna Buang, about 20km from Warburton.

From Somers Park follow the wide Vinegar Track WSW up along a creek course (an Acheron River head) lined with myrtle beech trees. After passing a logged-over area on the left reach Somers Saddle (2km). The track to Mt Vinegar leaves on the right.

Turn left and follow the wide MMBW track through beautiful ash forest along the Dividing Range to a locked gate (3.5km). Do not pass through the gate. Look for a narrow yet well-defined track (marked with white plastic strips and circular markers) leaving on the left. Follow the track steeply upwards ESE then south east, later joining an old, indistinct track coming in on the left. During this section of the walk the route has been through vigorously growing woollybutt (alpine ash).

The track passes verdant moist flats supporting myrtle beeches, then arrives at a three way track junction (5.5km). Follow the right hand track (good soft track) past a gate and down through silver wattles to the verdant,

57

grassy flats of Booby alia Saddle ( 8km). On the downhill section just prior to that point, look right for tall woollybutts and excellent examples of the handsome waxberry Gaultheria appressa).

There's an excellent lunch spot on the grassy flats of Boobyalla Saddle with good water close by in a head of the Watts River, where a good track leaves to the right (west).

Avoid this track and after lunch walk southerly through superb ash forest about 800 metres to the point where the track veers left. At this point, look for the narrow, marked track (walking track) on the right, which leads south west uphill to Boobyalla Plateau. Follow the foot track trough dense scrub (tea-tree, melaleauca, etc.) over the flattish top ofBoobyalla Plateau and the low, rocky top of Mt Boobyalla (1,200m - 10km).

Avoid the marked track to the Six Mile Turntable (Cement Creek -11.5km), then shortly after rejoin the wider forest access track. Follow through groves of numerous myrtle beeches, past a warning sign and up to the summit of Mt Donna Buang (1,243m - 13km). By turning left at the Six Mile signpost and following the Cement Creek track down to the Six Mile Turntable, the distance would be 14.5km.

By reversing the direction of the Somers Park - Donna Buang walk the standard would be an easy 13km, because of the descent of 700 metres to the finishing point at Somers Park.

If starting from Mt Donna Buang, and continuing past Mt Vinegar and Carters Gap to Morleys Creek and Fernshaw. the standard would then be long medium and the distance 22km.

Fred Halls, 19 April1986

One day: below the Blowhard Range

Yea River- Yea Link- Sams Hut Track- Blowhard Track­Starlight Flats - Klondyke Road - Luke Creek - Blowhard Road -Nolans Road - Sams Hut Track - Blowhard Road - Cockpit Creek

Track- Yea River

Features:

Standard: Best season: Distance: Time: Maps:

Water: Transport:

An excellent forest walk, much of it on soft leafy tracks or earth roads. Misty valleys, lovely groves of myrtle beech, blackwoods, hazel pomaderris, stands of tall mountain ash and shining gum, blue gum and silver wattle. Some of the largest trees in Australia. Easy-medium. October-December, March-April. 18km. Actual walking, 5-7 hours. F.C.V 1:100,000 Toolangi-Black Range. Monda 8022-4-4. Small creeks at various points along the route. Private, no car shuffle. To and from a point on the Yea Link Road near the Yea River. (GR677470 Monda 8022-4-4).

Leaving the transport vehicle walk south down along the forested valley of the Yea River past the logged -over area high on the left. Shortly after look for the Yea Link leaving on the right. Follow this track across the wide Yea River bridge, climbing to the track junction with Sams Hut Track and Cockpit Creek Track.

58

Follow the right hand track (Sams Hut Track) up through a forest of giant 'stag trees'. Some of Australia's largest eucalypts may be seen close to the leafy track. After about another 500 metres look for the Blowhard Tree, a massive giant, certainly one of the largest trees in Australia, situated just to the left of the track (GR367847). Girth at 1m above ground level 14.63 metres.

Continue up to the Blowhard Road. Continue downhill (right) through magnificent giant ash forest to a junction with the Yea Link Road (2.5km). Just prior to that point, look high to the left in the forest to see what could possibly be the greatest of them all, a giant tree amid a forest of giants, but not yet measured.

Continue climbing north along the misty valley road, up along the valley of big trees, the mountain ash, shining gum and glittering myrtle beech. It is very pleasant indeed, wandering up the leafy slopes to the head of the valley where Nolans Road joins in on the left. A pleasant lunch spot but there is no water (4.5km).

Continue straight ahead, and soon the Starlight Track continues north to Starlight Flats, down an avenue between tall ash trees to the Klondyke Road (5.5km). Turn right and follow that road past the valley of Luke Creek on the left, a verdant valley with a high screen of young mountain ash trees and glittering myrtle beech. But on the right (south) a heavily logged-over flat is dotted with an occasional whippy seed tree thrust high towards the sky.

At 7km avoid the track (Kalatha Link Road) leaving to the left (north east). Reach the Blowhard Road at a sharp turn to the right (8km), and after a further 1km return to Nolans Road Turn right along that road, and walk west through tall ash trees. At the next junction turn left, walk south west down Nolans Road to Sams Hut Track (10.5km).

Turn left and follow Sams Hut Track over the heights of the Blowhard Range, through excellent forest of mountain ash and shining gum, past the remains of Sams Hut situated on the right, then downhill to the Blowhard Road (12km). Turn right and follow the Blowhard Road past massive forest giants. After about 2km, on a southern sharp bend, look for a good earth track (Cockpit Creek Track) leaving towards the south then east (14.5km).

The forest becomes even more mature from this point, some of Australia's largest eucalypts, huge examples of the white mountain ash (Euc. regnans), may be seen close to the leafy track. Many are now known as giant 'stag trees'; the crowns, burnt by the disastrous fires of 1939 Black Friday, appear like the antlers of a giant stag, hence the name.

Cross the green ferny valley of Cockpit Creek, and at about 16km observe a huge tree just to the left of the track (Cockpit Creek giant- 13.42 metres girth at 1m above ground level). ShGrtly after the Cockpit Creek Track joins the Sams Hut Track. Turn right and walk south downhill on the Cockpit Creek Track through a forest of tall young ash trees. Soon the track swings sharp left (east) and descends through beautiful ash groves to the ford crossing the Yea River. Cross on logs situated to the right, and climb a few hundred metres through fern and forest out to the Yea Link Road (17.5km). Turn left and walk north past the logged-over area back to transport. 18km.

Fred Halls, 26 March 1986

59

MELBOURNE SUBURBS

Half day: the old Inner Circle Railway

Features: An easily accessible afternoon historical walk along the route of the now-dismantled Inner Circle Railway.

Standard: A two to three hour linear park walk. Maps: Melway Nos. 29, 30, 43, 44. Transport: Tram and train.

An interesting history is attached to this railway commencing with the opening of the North Melbourne - Royal Park - Coburg line in 1884, and then the construction ofthe Heidelberg line and the Flinders Street viaduct. The circle was completed with the opening of a direct link between the city and Collingwood in 1904, the latter being up to that time the end of a short spur line running south from Clifton Hill.

However it is many years since passenger trains went around the circuit (I can remember travelling to and from the zoo so as to complete the full loop) although up to recent years the Fitzroy goods depot, a second spur line, was still operative.

A good idea is to start the walk at the Edinburgh Gardens through which the train ran. Take a number 10 or 11 tram from Collins Street to Stop 25, St Georges Road. At the traffic lights cross to the gardens where some time may be spent inspecting the various features which give the Gardens its character. Include the cricket club and grandstand (1888), the nearby Fitzroy sporting clubs' memorial which honours members fallen in the 1914-18 war, and the circular Doric styled bandstand. Alfred Crescent surrounds the park with a number of buildings of architectural and historic note. The central tower of the State school gives a clue as to how the building looked in 1875, the rest of the school having since been extensively remodelled. The park section of the railway line is now a surfaced bicycle route.

From the steam locomotive and tender permanently at rest go over the level crossing and follow the line, now a grassy sward hedged with native plants. When St Georges Road comes into view leave the line and walk north along Apperly Street which is to the right. Cross Park Street and walk east towards Merri Creek. About 200 metres from Rushall railway station is an open triangular area. In the grass old concrete bases, once part of the overhead supports, give a clue to the layout of the one-time junction. The connection to the Whittlesea line may also be discerned.

Turn about and keep Park Street on your left and follow the line westward for the next kilometre. Except at road crossings the rails have been removed. Shortly after crossing St Georges Road you will see the remains of a rail siding below a line of silos. Behind these you will find a small park with four date palms and faced on two sides with Victorian dwellings. Further on and over two level crossings, the shell of an electical powerhouse is passed. Climb a low rise on which trees grow and you are now standing on the remains of the platform of North Fitzroy station.

Two busy roads, Nicholson and Lygon Streets, are to be crossed, so it is advisable to take a short walk to the lights at Brunswick Road near each crossing.

From Lygon Street the line veers to the left and the reserve widens into a

60

landscaped park well shaded with trees. Red brick and slate tiled North Carlton station now serves as a local community house and is the home of the Montemurro Bocce Club. One last level crossing leads into Princes Park. Because of dump filling the way under the road bridge is almost unapproach­able. Instead, take the footpath so as to cross the highway at the lights. From Park Street turn left into The Avenue. Look over the parapet of the next bridge and observe the depth of the cutting. Further ahead there is the rail junction with the Gowrie line. Cross the bridge and walk along the side of the sports oval to Royal Park station.

Athol Schafer

Half day: Old Oakleigh Town and Waverley Features:

Time: Maps: Transport:

Linear park walk along Scotchmans Creek through Waverley and Oakleigh municipalities. An area with interesting historical background. About 3 hours. Melway maps 61, 69, 70. Suburban train and tram.

Popular as a venue for open air activities, the Scotchmans Creek linear park has historic connections back to the days of the old Mulgrave Shire, although it is now covered by the Waverley and Oakleigh municipalities.

Commence your walk, or ramble, from Oakleigh station. You will notice on the north side that the extensive goods yards are currently being redeveloped. The site harks back to the official thinking of the 1870's and 80's that Oakleigh, as the 'Gateway to Gippsland' (a title later appropriated by Dandenong), was to be an important centre in the network of railway lines planned for the Colony of Victoria. For some time the line from Sale terminated at Oakleigh while politicians bickered over the proposed routes for a connection to Melbourne. It was here that the legendary Outer Circle and Ross town railways joined in and where, on the strength of rumour that railway workshops were to be built, speculators bought up empty paddocks. Collapse of commodity prices and the end of the building boom in the 90's bought reality to those dreams.

Walk through the shopping centre and mall to cross Atherton Road then head north along Drummond Street. In the cemetery on the left rest the remains of early townsfolk, some of whom probably subscribed to the Mechanics Institute across the road while it was still young: it celebrated its centenary in 1986. Note the width of Logie Street; it was the southern boundary of the original town plan as laid down in 1853. This and similar streets over the highway give the impression of a small quiet country town as indeed it was for many years. The three chain wide highway was not designed in foresight of today's traffic but rather to take the mobs of Gippsland cattle destined for the Melbourne market. The township's northern boundary was the creek and it was on its banks that William Atkinson the pound keeper built his South Yarra Inn in 1844. Pound and inn have long since vanished under the Caloola Reserve.

Enter the reserve and walk through to Atkinson Street. Across the road a 'shared pathway' is followed. There were brickworks around here but now mostly the ground is filled and tidied up. Brickmaking started in the 1850's on nearby allotments with further works being opened up during the railway

61

and building boom of the 80's. With the growth of the town Oakleigh folk thought they had little in common with the farmers and market gardeners north of Waverley Road and in 1891 the Borough of Oakleigh was severed from Mulgrave.

After crossing Park Road rejoin the pathway behind the swimming pool. The public golf course is on the other side of the creek. It was after John McMillan took up the cattle lease that the area became known as the Scotchmans Creek Run. He and his family arrived in Melbourne in October 1836 on an immigrant ship filled mostly with impoverished Scottish tenant farmers. McMillan held the run from 1840 to 1846.

Eastward over Huntingdale Road skirts a wide and, when wet, a swampy flood basin. On reaching Stanley A venue ascend it for a wondrous view of the Mulgrave Freeway cut deep in the valley of Sandy Creek. The high ridge along here was part of the northern boundary of Scotchmans Creek Run. Aliens Creek Run was the neighbouring lease watered by the upper reaches of Gardiners Creek. Allen was an earlier cattleman who, in 1837, built a hut as staging post in his quest for wider pastures further on.

Cross the freeway bridge, turn right to pass a kindergarten and then left into Lewton Road, the latter opening on Mayfield Park from where the high elevation offers a good view. Cut northwest over the park to Mayfield Drive. Continue north to Waverley Road and cross over to a reserve along a shallow valley. The reserve continues across Grenfell Road and opens into Jack Street. At the end of the street cross to the reserve fringing the railway line across which can be seen greens ofthe Riversdale Golf Club. The club moved to the site in 1925. The practice greens were where you are standing but they were excised from the course for construction of the railway in the late 1920's. Incorporated in the clubhouse was the original homestead 'StJohn's Wood', built for a former mayor of Prahran. A later owner was Sir Edmund Barry, 1813-80, founder of Melbourne University and the Public Library and the judge who pronounced the death sentence on Ned Kelly.

Walk east along the reserve to the underpass leading into Alvie Road, following the latter to the pedestrian crossing on High Street Road. You may have noticed that some of the side streets passed were of concrete. These roads were laid down for the Glen Alvie Estate, a country club style residential subdivision scheme of the late 1920's, but which foundered with the onset of the Great Depression. The made roads and footpaths remained without houses for two decades, until the post-war housing boom transformed Mulgrave from a mainly rural area to a dormitory suburb.

Cross at the lights and enter Damper Creek Reserve. The name derives from a sawyer who built a hut on the creek in the 1840's. The hilly area around here was known as the Stringybark Ranges, well-timbered as the name implies, and from where a number of sawyers were able to supply the growing town of Melbourne with poles, palings and firewood. Near the entrance of the reserve there is a display map of the walking tracks; meadowy lawns and shady trees make for an inviting picnic spot. Treeferns grow under a shadowy bank of the creek giving some idea of how the area looked like before settlement. The original building of St Stephen's Church still stands at 383 High Street Road. The handmade bricks were made from clay dug out of gullies and fired in a kiln beside the creek, then carried up the hill by church members. The church opened in 1865.

62

The reserve comes out at Stephensons Road and not far from a bus stop from which a No. 733 bus may be taken back to Oakleigh. However the walk may be extended through Bennettswood. Although beyond the municipal boundary the area has a historical connection with Mulgrave. The Bennett brothers had held pastures in Nunawading since 1850 and acquired additional holdings over the boundary road a few years later. Cross High bury Road and take the first street on the left off Middleborough Road. Turn right into Malvina Street, walk downhill then follow a 'shared pathway' to Cummings Street. Take the first turn to the left and come to a park overlooking Gardiners Creek. Walk north past the electricity supply depot to the Burwood Highway where it is a short distance to the nearest tram stop.

Further reference: Priestley, Susan. Cattlemen to Commuters. John Ferguson Pty Ltd in association with the City of Waverley, 1979.

Athol Schafer, 1986

Piccaninny Creek, Bungle Bungles, W A PHOTO: JENNY ROSS

63

PHOTO: JOPIE BODEGRA VEN

64

Australia's Adventure Legend ~ ~ ~

~ ~ " .

Paddy Pallin's boundless enthusiasm for adventure is legendary. For more than 50 years he's been encouraging Australians to get out and enjoy our wild places.

Paddy Pallin stores continue to lead the way with innovative equipment, including luxurious down sleeping bags, Gore-tex rainwear and the latest in rucksacks and travel luggage.

So for the best in outdoor equipment call into your nearest Paddy Pallin store and share the enthusiasm of the Leaders in Adventure.

THE LEADERS IN ADVENTURE MELBOURNE

55 Hardware Street (03) 67 4845

TO WIN THIS

WE HAD TO SURMOUNT A FEW OBSTACLES

Mountain Designs Your complete wilderness and travel suppliers.

See the award winning Mountain Designs Clothing and Sleeping Bags. Soon.

MELBOURNE MITTCHAM 377 Little Bourke Street. 67 3354, 67 2586 523 Whitehorse Road. 874 7044, 874 7560