Coffee for Justice:Coffee for Justice:Chemistry in service to Chemistry in service to

small-holder coffee small-holder coffee farmersfarmers

ACS Science and Human ACS Science and Human Rights WebinarRights Webinar

presentedpresentedOctober 9, 2012 October 9, 2012

Susan C. JackelsSusan C. JackelsSeattle UniversitySeattle University

Telling the story of collaboration with Telling the story of collaboration with Nicaraguan small-holder coffee Nicaraguan small-holder coffee

farmersfarmers

The “Coffee The “Coffee Crisis” of 2001Crisis” of 2001

Nicaraguan Nicaraguan Farmers’ responseFarmers’ response

Involvement in Involvement in coffee quality coffee quality improvement with improvement with farmers, using farmers, using chemistrychemistry

“Coffee Crisis”

Coffee Crisis: Volatility in the Coffee Crisis: Volatility in the Price of Coffee on the World Price of Coffee on the World

MarketMarket

N. Luttinger and G. Dicum, “The Coffee Book,” Norton, 2006

Response to the Coffee Response to the Coffee Crisis in Nicaragua since Crisis in Nicaragua since

20012001 Small holder producers have strengthened Small holder producers have strengthened

cooperative organizations in order to:cooperative organizations in order to:– Improve coffee quality Improve coffee quality (hope for access to (hope for access to

specialty quality market)specialty quality market)– Gain certification Gain certification (Fair Trade and Organic)(Fair Trade and Organic)– Gain access to international marketsGain access to international markets

International relief and development International relief and development organizations began providing assistance. organizations began providing assistance. (USAID, Catholic Relief Services, others)(USAID, Catholic Relief Services, others)

In 2002, I became involved through association In 2002, I became involved through association with ISJACHEM, University of Central America with ISJACHEM, University of Central America Managua and Catholic Relief ServicesManagua and Catholic Relief Services

Why improve coffee quality Why improve coffee quality at some expense to at some expense to

quantity?quantity? Gain access to Gain access to specialty market specialty market (quality must be (quality must be higher than 80 on a higher than 80 on a 100 point scale so the 100 point scale so the global buyers get global buyers get interested)interested)

Hope for a relationship Hope for a relationship with a buyer with a buyer that that persists year-to-year persists year-to-year

Direct trade Direct trade can get a can get a good price but must good price but must have a connection and have a connection and good qualitygood quality

Why improve coffee quality Why improve coffee quality at some expense to at some expense to

quantity?quantity? Organic/Fair Trade Organic/Fair Trade market: market: producers producers still can’t find a still can’t find a buyer for all organic buyer for all organic coffee (our coffee coffee (our coffee coops this year sold coops this year sold 70% of their coffee 70% of their coffee on conventional on conventional market)market)

Small differential Small differential between organic between organic and conventional and conventional market prices market prices (2012)(2012)

•A research /service project in service to Nicaraguan small-holder coffee producers

•The goal is to help producers get out of the Coffee Crisis by improving their coffee so it can be sold on the Organic /Fair Trade or Specialty market (or direct trade).

Partner OrganizationsPartner Organizations Catholic Relief Services Catholic Relief Services

Nicaragua/ Caritas MatagalpaNicaragua/ Caritas Matagalpa Nicaraguan farmer coops Nicaraguan farmer coops

CECOSEMAC and ADDACCECOSEMAC and ADDAC University of Central America University of Central America

ManaguaManagua National Science FoundationNational Science Foundation Seattle USeattle U UW BothellUW Bothell Winds of Winds of

PeacePeace MJ Murdock Charitable TrustMJ Murdock Charitable Trust

NicaraguaNicaragua

NicaraguaNicaragua

                    

                    

                    

                    

                    

                    

                    

            

Locations of Cooperatives

We were connected with these coffee farm cooperatives through Catholic Relief Services

First and foremost, make good First and foremost, make good relationship with the relationship with the

communitycommunity

Focus groups: We asked Focus groups: We asked the farmers for their the farmers for their

questionsquestions What is the effect of What is the effect of

over-fermentation on over-fermentation on coffee quality?coffee quality?

How can fermentation How can fermentation be controlled to be controlled to optimize coffee optimize coffee quality and maintain quality and maintain consistency?consistency?

Coffee Coffee Cherry Cherry

AnatomyAnatomy

Mucilage Layer removed by fermentation after outer skin and pulp are removed mechanically.

What did you say? Fermentation in What did you say? Fermentation in coffee processing?coffee processing?

Coffee Processing on the Coffee Processing on the FarmFarm

How can we answer the How can we answer the farmers’ question about farmers’ question about over fermentation and over fermentation and whether it affects their whether it affects their

coffee quality?coffee quality?

We began by doing a field We began by doing a field study on the farms to find study on the farms to find

out changes happening out changes happening during coffee fermentation.during coffee fermentation.

A field study of coffee A field study of coffee fermentation on small farms in fermentation on small farms in

Matagalpa in 2004Matagalpa in 2004

SC Jackels and CF Jackels, Journal of Food Science, 2005, Vol. 70, pages C321 – C325.

Developed tests for pH, Developed tests for pH, ethanol, lactic acid and ethanol, lactic acid and

glucoseglucose

pH profiles of coffee pH profiles of coffee fermentationfermentation

Fermentation pH

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

5.5

6

6.5

-20.0 -15.0 -10.0 -5.0 0.0 5.0

t-tc(hrs)

pH

D-1

D-2

D-3

C-1

B-1

A-1

A-2

All batches were ready to wash at the same

pH.

Conclusions from field studyConclusions from field study

The regular pattern of pH change during The regular pattern of pH change during fermentation may be useful for fermentation may be useful for producers.producers.

The results provide the basis for a simple The results provide the basis for a simple method to control fermentation on the method to control fermentation on the farm by monitoring pH.farm by monitoring pH.

Necessary to determine the relationship Necessary to determine the relationship between roasted coffee quality in the between roasted coffee quality in the cup and fermentation time (over cup and fermentation time (over fermentation).fermentation).

2006 controlled 2006 controlled fermentation experimentsfermentation experiments

On each of eleven days divided one On each of eleven days divided one large batch of pulped coffee into six large batch of pulped coffee into six small buckets for fermentationsmall buckets for fermentation

Each day: Fermentation stopped at Each day: Fermentation stopped at three different pH rangesthree different pH ranges

““Cupped” the coffee to determine Cupped” the coffee to determine qualityquality

Does a relationship exist between fermentation pH at time of washing and coffee quality?

Controlled fermentation Controlled fermentation experimentsexperiments

Three pH ranges each dayThree pH ranges each day

Wash 2 buckets in each pH range:Wash 2 buckets in each pH range: Range 1: pH = 4.5-4.8Range 1: pH = 4.5-4.8 Range 2: pH = 4.1-4.4Range 2: pH = 4.1-4.4 Range 3: pH = 4.0-3.6Range 3: pH = 4.0-3.6

pH durante el tiempo de la fermentacion

3

3.5

4

4.5

5

5.5

6

Tiempo

pH

12

3

Ph during the time of fermentation

Time

pH monitoring and washingpH monitoring and washing

Stephanie Kleven, testing in lab.

Stephanie Kleven and Roberto Rivas, washing coffee.

Coffee Quality by CuppingCoffee Quality by Cupping in Laboratories in Laboratories

Scores on 66 Scores on 66 coffee batches are coffee batches are in the range 75- 88in the range 75- 88

““Good coffee, but Good coffee, but not outstanding”not outstanding”

Are there Are there significant changes significant changes with systematic with systematic over fermentation?over fermentation?

Sol Café Laboratory

Cupper with international reputation

Cupping ResultsCupping Results

Qualities:

Fragrance and Aroma

Acidity

Flavor

Body

After-taste

Balance

Ranges: 90 – 100 (excellent); 80 – 89 (very good);

70 – 79 (commercial); 60 – 69 (poor); <60 (not acceptable)

Do the averages differ Do the averages differ significantly?significantly?

Change (12)

Change (13)

Sol Café Results

-1.1 (t=1.41; p=0.10)

-1.5 (t=2.00; p=0.04)

Paired sample t-test

One-tail probability

Quality changes of Quality changes of individual paired samplesindividual paired samples

Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test (one-tail): Range 1 2 (p = 0.043)Range 1 3 (p = 0.055)

Controlled fermentation Controlled fermentation experiments: Conclusionsexperiments: Conclusions

Weak relationship is observed:Weak relationship is observed: lower lower values of pHvalues of pHtermterm (over-fermentation) (over-fermentation) correspond to reduced coffee quality: correspond to reduced coffee quality: -1.5 point change in quality for pH change -1.5 point change in quality for pH change of approximately -0.5 units. of approximately -0.5 units.

A more powerful study, with more A more powerful study, with more replicates would strengthen this replicates would strengthen this conclusion.conclusion.

Does a relationship exist between fermentation pH at time of washing and coffee quality?

S. Jackels, C. Jackels, C. Vallejos, S. Kleven, R. Rivas and S. Fraser-Dauphinee, Proceedings of the 21st ASIC (Association Scientifique Internationale du Café) Meeting 2006, pp. 434 – 442.

Transferring knowledge Transferring knowledge to the coffee farmers…to the coffee farmers…

Fermentation optimization Fermentation optimization by coffee producersby coffee producers

Can producers themselves use pH measurements to improve coffee quality through “fermentation optimization”?

100 kits for small farmers: pH paper, watch, instructions, materials

Workshops for Coffee Workshops for Coffee ProducersProducers

Treatment applied by Treatment applied by producersproducers

Before:Before: Measure pH at time of washing Measure pH at time of washing coffee, making no change from usual coffee, making no change from usual routine. Then submit a sample for routine. Then submit a sample for drying, roasting and cupping.drying, roasting and cupping.

Make changes in fermentation to Make changes in fermentation to optimize.optimize.

After:After: Measure pH at time of washing an Measure pH at time of washing an optimized batch. Then submit a sample optimized batch. Then submit a sample for drying, roasting and cupping.for drying, roasting and cupping.

Ferm Time vs pH: Step C - Step A

-20.00

-15.00

-10.00

-5.00

0.00

5.00

10.00

15.00

-2.00 -1.00 0.00 1.00 2.00

Change in pH

Ch

an

ge

in F

erm

en

tati

on

Tim

e (

h)

Producer Data

Spearman rank correlation: rho = -0.341, N = 69

Inverse Correlation is significant (P = 0.004)

The producers’ changes in The producers’ changes in pH and fermentation time pH and fermentation time

were correlatedwere correlatedFermentation Time versus pH: “After” – “Before”

Did the coffee quality Did the coffee quality improve?improve?

Average Cup ScoresAverage Cup Scores

LabLab SamplesSamples Before Before (SD)(SD)

AfterAfter

(SD)(SD)Change Change

(SD)(SD)P testP test

Sol Sol CaféCafé

7171 81.181.1(4.2(4.2))

81.581.5(3.5(3.5))

0.43(3.8)0.43(3.8) .17.17

All Samples Included

LabLab SamplesSamples Before Before (SD)(SD)

AfterAfter

(SD)(SD)Change Change

(SD)(SD)P testP test

Sol Sol CaféCafé

6969 81.481.4(3.6(3.6))

81.881.8(3.1(3.1))

0.43(2.6)0.43(2.6) .09.09

Damaged Samples Removed

Was the fermentation Was the fermentation optimized by coffee optimized by coffee

producers?producers?Answer: Maybe

•Farmers successfully controlled fermentation with kits

•No statistically significant change in quality, however.

•Crop quality problem: Before-step was mid-harvest at peak of quality, After-step was end of harvest when quality diminished.

S. Jackels and C. Jackels, Proceedings of the 21st ASIC (Association Scientifique Internationale du Café) Meeting (Montpelier) 2006, pp. 434 – 442 (2006)

Cup scores by Cup scores by cooperativecooperative

Name of Name of CooperatiCooperativeve

Average Average Score Score BeforeBefore

Average Average Score AfterScore After

P ValueP Value

Las NubesLas Nubes 83.183.1 83.083.0 0.460.46

PayacucaPayacuca 81.481.4 81.981.9 0.130.13

San San AntonioAntonio

78.678.6 81.181.1 0.070.07

SiaresSiares 83.583.5 83.583.5 0.470.47

PacayonaPacayona 80.480.4 81.281.2 0.120.12

El CastilloEl Castillo 81.381.3 80.780.7 0.070.072012 harvest: all of these cooperatives were in the 82 – 83 range.

Social Analysis: Social Analysis: What did the coffee What did the coffee

producers learn from us?producers learn from us?

•Increased awareness of the importance of quality control and potential for improvement

•Increased involvement and interest of the children

•Higher morale and more hope for the future

2009 Engineering project to 2009 Engineering project to build a coffee millbuild a coffee mill

M.D. Marsolek, J.T. Alcantara, P. Cummings, L. Quintero, M. Wynne, C. Vallejos, C.F. Jackels, S.C. Jackels, International Journal for Service Learning in Engineering, June 2012.

Acknowledgements to Acknowledgements to International Scientific TeamsInternational Scientific Teams

FacultyFaculty Prof. Susan Jackels, Seattle University (USA)Prof. Susan Jackels, Seattle University (USA) Prof. Charles Jackels, Univ. of Washington Bothell (USA)Prof. Charles Jackels, Univ. of Washington Bothell (USA) Prof. Carlos Vallejos, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua)Prof. Carlos Vallejos, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua) Prof. Cipriano Lopez, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua)Prof. Cipriano Lopez, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua) Prof. Michael Marsolek, Seattle University (USA)Prof. Michael Marsolek, Seattle University (USA)

StudentsStudents Seattle UniversitySeattle University: Stephanie Kleven, Jack Chacon, Joshua Alcantara, : Stephanie Kleven, Jack Chacon, Joshua Alcantara,

Patrick Cummings, Luis Quintero, Michael Wynne, Angelica Omaiye, Patrick Cummings, Luis Quintero, Michael Wynne, Angelica Omaiye, Zachary Kamine, Kathleen Bacarro, Czarina Franco, Diana Heaney, Zachary Kamine, Kathleen Bacarro, Czarina Franco, Diana Heaney, Spencer Ubben, Stella Navia, Jody Cook, Britt Mueller, Tam Pham, Ivon Spencer Ubben, Stella Navia, Jody Cook, Britt Mueller, Tam Pham, Ivon Octavia, Jessica Angginasah, Fera Widjaja, Amy Sly, Kerina PowellOctavia, Jessica Angginasah, Fera Widjaja, Amy Sly, Kerina Powell

University of British Columbia University of British Columbia (Canada): Scott Fraser-Dauphinee(Canada): Scott Fraser-Dauphinee University of Central America Managua University of Central America Managua (Nicaragua): Roberto Rivas, (Nicaragua): Roberto Rivas,

Diana Zelaya, Gema Medina, Maria Auxiliadora Castillo, Ervin GarciaDiana Zelaya, Gema Medina, Maria Auxiliadora Castillo, Ervin Garcia

Farmers and NGO’sFarmers and NGO’s Coffee farms and families of Matagalpa, NicaraguaCoffee farms and families of Matagalpa, Nicaragua CECOSEMAC and ADDAC Cooperatives and Caritas MatagalpaCECOSEMAC and ADDAC Cooperatives and Caritas Matagalpa Catholic Relief Services/NicaraguaCatholic Relief Services/Nicaragua

Acknowledgements for Acknowledgements for SupportSupport

US National Science US National Science Foundation (CHE-0512867)Foundation (CHE-0512867)

Engineers Without BordersEngineers Without Borders Tetra Tech, Inc. Tetra Tech, Inc. Winds of Peace FoundationWinds of Peace Foundation MJ Murdock Charitable TrustMJ Murdock Charitable Trust Seattle UniversitySeattle University University of Central America University of Central America

ManaguaManagua Catholic Relief Catholic Relief

Services/NicaraguaServices/Nicaragua

QuestionsQuestions