tehran: past & present
TRANSCRIPT
Tehran: Past & Present is the first -i'FiE:FFi'l. volume, in English along with an
abstract in Farsi. of a series of books introducing various aspects of life, art and the architecture of the capital city of Iran . Despite the fact that there is evidence of dwellings dating back to 3000 years ago in this location and the huge population it holds today which makes it top the list of the world's metropolises, Tehran is a fairly young city compared to other cities in Iran . If Isfihan is hailed as the majestic capital city of Iran during the Safavid period, Tehran, with all its intricacies and delicacies in architecture, culture and art. was the capital city of the Oajar Dynasty and enjoys significant importance in the transition from the past to ilJ the present. It An outstanding feature of this book is making use of pictures along w ith captions and accompanying articles portraying the historical and cultural ups and downs of the past two hundred years of this city along with an introduction of the trad itions. rites. religious ceremonies. market places and bazaars. houses. temples. palaces. architectural ornamentations. and the nature and landscape encircling the cityscape. all of which mysteriously are proof of an underlying life full of passion and variety of forms in all these phenomena. The integrated harmony that can be seen beyond the facades of the architectures and sights are evidence of the solidarity of the elements comprising the culture of Iran and the spirituality of its people. We sincerely hope that this book is a first step towards introducing the capital of this ancient land.
H.R.Norouzi Talab
In The Name of God
1 . Tile on the entrance to an old house in the vicinity of ' Gozarre Loot iye Saaleh' in Molavi neighborhood. 2002 . ..)..1 ~.l...i ($1 ~L;.. (S.lJjJ.)..I.>-'-'" ~1.S: . \ \" A \ '(S)"'" <.h.. e-lL.o.)o) J~ .)1.".
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I TEHRAN: Past & Present A Glance at the features of Life, Art and Architecture
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Compiler and Executive Manager:
Hamid Reza Norouzi Talab
YASSAVOLI P l B l I <- \ I I 0 '\ ')
I TEHRAN: Past & Present A Glance at the features of Life, Art and Architecture
~ (SjJJY L..:. J~ :<.>-'I.?-I->=,;.. "....il:'" Compiler and Executive Manager: Hamid Reza Norouzi Talab
I".li.o ~I~ ($.>f. ($J~ \.,> With the assistance of Kobra Abdollahi Moghaddam
':"'~ u~ :~I~ ~I)o Art Director & Graphic designer: Bijan Jenab
(SJ;£' wlJ : .~I '-:> <.S"""Ju.)I .:;;.......,...,:; English Tra~slation of Texts: Dana Gharavi
~;i ~ : ~I':;;" ";",1->=",, L...~ (~.....,...,:; English Translation of Photo Captions and final Editing: Ali Farzi
(SJ~I.:.IJt.... FlS :<.S"""Ju J G.....I->=" Persian editor: Kazem Sadate Eshkevari
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'''JJ~~I .'':'~~lu~lAA>·''JWjl(SJ~~ .~~ : ~J($L...~ Color Photographs by: Ali Matin, Sa'id M. Aznavh, H. Amir yeganeh, Afshin Bakhtiar, ".
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<G.......:. f' . ... 'i Ar :J"I ",,4- ©2008 by Yassavoli Publications , Tehran.
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I Acknowledgment
We would like to express our gratitude to all those who have knowingly or otherwise,
helped us compile and complete this book especially:
The Iranology Foundation, International Center for Dialog among Civilizations, Muhammad
Kassie-Zadeh, Mohessen tehrani-Zadeh PhD, Prof. Abdollah Anvar, Eskandar Mokhtar
Ph.D ( National Heritage Organization, Tehran), Chahryar ADLE, Iran's National Heritage
Organization Archives, Ministry of Islamic Culture and Guidance, Tehran's Police Department.
The Armed Forces Organization, Public Relations Office of the Police Department, The
respecable managers of 'Golestan', 'Sad Abad', and "Niavaran' Palaces, Tehran's Society
of Zoroastrians, The Armenian Prelacy of Tehran, Tehran's Jewish Society, Tehran's Evangelical
Churches, The Faculty of Arts ofTehran University, Tehran University's Security Committee,
IJbrary of Iran's national Museum, The Public Relations Office of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs,
The Public Relations Office of Melli Bank, The Public Relations Office of 'Hazrate Abdol Azim',
Tehran Owqaf Organization, Tehran's Municipality Art & Culture Organization, The Society
for the Appreciation of Cultural Works and Dignitaries, Public Relations Office of the Post
Company, Managers of Museums under Mostazafan Foundation, Public Relations Office and
Cultural Affairs section of the Islamic Parliament, The Academy of Art, British Embassy, Italian
Embassy, Public Relations Office of Metro Company, Public Relations Office of the Expeditors
Council of the Islamic Republic, Public Relations Office of'Shahid Motahari' school, Public
Relations Office of Iran's telecommunications Ministry, 'Baghe Negarestan' .
Thanks are also due to Reza, Mahmoud and Javad Yassavoli for their providing the essential resources, technical supervision and fantastic management, which made it possible to publish the first volume of Tehran series. I would like to especially thank my colleagues in the technical and executive affairs:
Majid Zahedi ,Maryam Khanmoha.mmadi ,Leila Mansouri, Sonia Rezapour, Mahdi Khosrow
- abadi and Ma'soumeh Oavidel
and many more who might have skipped our memory.
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Preface
The Ancient Land of Iran (Persia)
Tehran - the Capital City of Iran
Administrative, Financial and Cultural Capital
Tehran in the Course of History
Tehran in the Safavid Period
Tehran in the Afghan Invasion and the Afshar and Zand Periods
Tehran - Capital of the Early Oajar Kings
Tehran in the reign of Reza Shah - the First King of the Pahlavi Dynasty
Tehran after the Islamic Revolution
The Squares and Plazas of Tehran
Historic Squares and Plazas
Hassan Abad Square
Bagh-e Shah Race Course
Arg Square
Tupkhaneh (Artillery) Square
Sabzeh Meydan
E'dam (Execution) Square
Tajrish Square
Azadi Square
The Bazaar o f Tehran
Tehrans Palaces and Pavilions
The Golestan Palace Complex
Sa'd Abad Palace Complex
The Niavaran and Sahebqaranieh Palace Complex
The Marmar Palace
Saltanat Abad Palace
The Howzkhaneh of the Negarestan Gardens
Eshrat Abad Palace
Bagh e Ferdows
The Bagh-e Melli Garden and Portico
The Old Mansions of Tehran
The Emam e Jom'eh House
The Oavam od-Dowleh House
The Moshir od-Dowleh House
The Professor Adl House
The Building of the Cultural Treasures and Personages Society
The Mandala (Kushk) Building
The Mostowfi ol-Mamalek House
The Oavam os-Saltaneh House
The A'iam-os-Saitaneh House
The Mo'tamen-ol-Atebba House
The Sadegh Hedayat 's House
Some Other Masions in Tehran
Source of Illustrations
Bibliography
Photographers & Source of Photographs
8 \"W
4. Tehran 1858 .J \ we <,I..>t>
5. Tehran 1890 .JIr·" ,0'-*
1- The Central Post Office. D 4 2- The Ferdowsi Grand Store. D 3 3- The Melli Bank . D 3 4- The Telegraph Building . D 4 5- The Costoms House D 4 6- The Embassy of France. D 3 7- The Embassy of Germany. D 3 8- The City Hotel D 4
9- The British Embassy . D3 17- The Royal Mosque. D5 10- The Embassy of the United State. D2 18- The Shams-ol Emareh Edifice . D5 11- The Museum of Fine Arts . E 3 19- The Railway Station . C6
12- The Ethnological Museum C 5 20- The Senate. C4 13- The Archaeological Museum D4 21- The Swiss Embassy C4
14- The Golestan Palace . D4 15- The Parliament . E 3 Red lines: 1890 limits 16- The Sepahsalar Parliament E 4 Yellow lines: 1858 limits
TEHERAN
6. Tehran. 1971. Map ofTehran, showing the expansion from Shah Tahmasb's period to Pahlavi's period. Drawing from the book: "Tehran de jadis", by: Pakravan.E. 1971.
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7. View of the moat between the city and the Arg, the entry into Teh ran's Bazar and the dome of the Soltani Mosque, 1840-41. Drawing adopted from "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandin and Pascal Coste, 1 840-4 1 . ';u.J... __ ~.J ,:,!..,... ).i~ ~J.J~).J"""':' ~.,;';';' csW
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Karim-Khan Zand. who was actually the king but called himself "Advocate of the People", had considered making Tehran his capital. However, he soon changed his mind and made Shiraz his capital instead. Upon Karim-Khan's death in 1193 AH (1779 AD), Aqa-Mohammad-Khan fled from Shiraz to Gorgan, where he sestablished the Oajar tribe. With their help, he prepared the occupation of northern Iran. In 1 199 AH (1785 AD). he set out towards Tehran, which was still under the domination of the remnants of the Zand dynasty. A year later, in 1200 AH (1786 AD), Tehran fell to Aqa-Mohammad-Khan.
One of the wishes of Agha Mohammad Khan was to be officially crowned, so that no one would deny his rule nor would anyone remain in opposition. He held a very ceremonious coronation in Tehran. But, about a year later, he was assassinated in the Caucasus by his attendants. His relatively short political life was mostly spent in fighting. He conferred the title of "Darolkhalafeh" on Tehran. He also made minor changes in the Marble Throne terrace, incorporating in it valuable artifacts he had brought from the ruins of the Vakil Palace in Shiraz. He ordered the building of the "Exit Building" which was completed after his death in 1216AH (1801 AD).
His successor, Fath-'Ali Shah, who was quite interested in the appearances of glory and power of kingshipbuilt many new palaces: the Negarestan Palace and Gardens, the Lalehzar Palace, the Oajar Palace and the Soltani (Royal) Mosque. During his relatively long reign, the structure of the City was not changed much, although the increase in population had caused the city to grow considerably. During the reign of Mohammad Shah, little attention was paid to the City. The only improvement was the completion of a water channel to Tehran from Karaj, the construction of Mohammadieh Palace, which remained unfinished, and the addition of a gate with the same name which no longer exists. By mid-19th century, Tehran faced an increase in population and a growth in area. Still the city lacked proper infrastructure and planning for industry, public buildings and the like. Among Tehran's several districts, only the northeastern was adequately developed owing to good water supply and large gardens. The city was still surrounded by the old wall built by Shah Tahmasb, but numerous bUildings and gardens were being built outside it. One of the accomplishments of Amir Kabir was the establishment of the Dar-ol-Fonun (polytechnic college), a public hospital, the bazaar, commercial chambers, and various factories throughout Iran, including glass and porcelain works, paper making, calico weaving, armaments, etc. in Tehran. The cleanliness of the city, which foreign visitors and political representatives had reported as appalling, became acceptable during Amir Kabir's term as prime minister. In 1284 AH (1867 AD) the old walls were removed and
the city grew rapidly. The number of the city gates was increased from 6 to 1 2 and palaces, parks, squares, embassies and new public buildings were made. The population of Tehran in the second half of the 19th century was about 200,000 . The influence of European architecture increased in the buildings of this period. Tehran still had a way to go to reach the glory of the previous capitals of Iran, for example Esfahan. The trend of development declined from the second decade of 19th century. After the downfall of the Qajar dynasty and the coming to power of the Pahlavi dynasty, along with other alterations in the social, economic and political affairs in Iran, Tehran also underwent major changes, moost of which was novel and modernizing Installations reflecting the new civilization rapidly developed in Tehran. This development was incompatible with the walls remaining from the time of Nassered-Din Shah. The increase in population and the need for open spaces for development called for the removal of the walls. Although these walls had for years lost their bounding function, just like the previous Shah Tahmasb walls had functionally lost their limiting quality because houses and gardens were developed outside the walls. However, by 1309 AH (1930 AD), the destruction of the gates and the filling of the moat began and wide new streets like Shah Reza, Shush, Shahbaz and Simetri Nezami were built in their place. The previous streets on the northern side of the city, such as Ala'-od-Dowleh Ave., were widened and renamed as Ferdowsi or Hafez, which are still present. The new city of Tehran north of the new streets developed rapidly. The University of Tehran, embassies, hospitals and other large educational facilities were built north of a capital. Two new avenues that easily connected Tehran to the northern summer resorts were laid. The city also developed in the other three directions and new neighborhoods were developed. In the area of the Ark, except for several buildings such as the Golestan Palace, the Shams-ol-'Emareh, the Badgir Building, and the Terrace of the Marble Throne, the rest were replaced by ministries and public buildings. New palaces in western Tehran replaced those in the Ark area as power centers. The creation of new streets with rectangular intersections similar to those in European cities, and also the creation of new educational centers and economic and social buildings, brought a new architecture to the city which was different from that of the old urban texture. Thus, the city was divided into the old and new sections. At this time, the population of Tehran was about 600,000.
The beginning of World War II and the occupation of Iran by foreign powers stopped the development trend of the city. The coup d'etat of Mordad 1332 AS (August 1953 AD), which brought about Iran's subservience to Western capitalism, caused urban development projects to focus on Tehran and the flow of immigrants to converge on it more than any other city of Iran. New economic policies encouraged the daily increase of immigration to
8. The Oil Company Building situated on Taleghani st., an outstanding sample of modernism in the architecture of governmental buildings in the Pahlavi II period. Circa 19605. Photograph from: La perse, Lameraman: Roger Wood,1969. ~.)4 oG.,.,u ,(~lillb) ~ w.iU uLL,;..)o ~ ~~ ul..3..;.L.,
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Tehran. The construction of satellite suburban townships around Tehran, which began in 1331 f\S (1952 AD), continued unabated. The population of Tehran between 1340 to 1357 f\S (1961 to 1978 AD) increased from 2 million to 5 million. During this period in addition to the creation of satellite cities and urban developments around the city, the townships of Rey and Shemiran were incorporated into Tehran. Immigration after the Islamic Revolution in 1357 f\S (1978 AD) and new development caused the creation of a territory called Tehran with a population more than 10 million. Today, it covers an area spanning the foothills of the Alborz range on the north to Rey in the south. In this vast territory, buildings dating back to the 10th century AH (16th century AD), such as Emamzadeh Zaid in the Tehran Bazaar, subsist alongside modern buildings built in the new Western style. The modern city texture dotted with skyscrapers erected alongside the old texture of the city with its building and monuments provide interesting and scenic views, for the tourists who set foot in the city for the first time.
• 9. A nocturnal view of Tehran. 2002. \lAI ."",:,~oul-*,
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14. Zoroastrian clergymen in prayers at 'Rostam Bagh', Tehran-pars street. 2001 .
. \ r,, · .<.>".)\0 .:,1..,.:; 't. ~ F.) ~ '~').Ju~l.,.".) ~~
Iran or Persia is a vast country in Southwest Asia. It is a land of immense natural resources, a long and proud history, rich literature, splendid art and magnificent architecture. Over the centuries its extent and borders have constantly changed but they have remained almost unchanged since about 1860. Today it has borders with the Republic of AzerbaUan and Armenia in the northwest; Turkmenistan in the northeast; Turkey and Iraq on the west and Afghanistan and Pakistan on the east. Iran's southern limits are the coasts of the Persian Gulf and the Sea of Oman. In the north Iran has a shorter coastline on the Caspian Sea. Today Iran has an area of 1,648,195 square kilometres and a population of about 70,000,000. Iran has a great variety of ethnic groups with various languages and faiths. The most important
languages are Persian IFarsi), Azeri land other Turkic dialects), Kurdish, Lori, Baluchi, Armenian, Syriac and Arabic. The majority of Iranians are Shia Muslims but there are also large Sunni Muslim, Christian IArmenian, Assyrian, Chaldaean and other), Zoroastrian and Jewish communities. All of these communities have preserved their own cultural characteristics and yet they have thoroughly integrated as one Iranian nation and live side by side in peace and harmony.
The largest cities of Iran are the capital Tehran followed by Mashhad, Isfahan, Tabriz, Shiraz, Karaj. Ahvaz, Oom, Kermanshah, Urmia, Zahedan, Rasht, Hamedan, Kerman, Arak, Ardabil, Yazd, Oazvin, Zanjan, Sanandaj , Bandar Abbas and Khorram Abad. Other cities of great historical or economic importance include Abadan, Kashan, Sari, Amol, Bushehr, Gonbad e Oabus, Neishabur, Semnan , Damghan, Bandar e Anzali, Shushtar, and Shush . Iran has innumerable tourist attractions, historical monuments and natural scenic spots. The
climate range is one of the greatest in the world. In the winter it can be bitterly cold in the mountainous plateaux of the northwest while on the same day people go swimming in the Persian Gulf. In the summer the south is baking hot while in the high mountains there are permanent snow fields where some enthusiasts go skiing .
*Mandaeans are the followers of John the Baptist.About 70 thousands of them live in Iraq and as many as 25 thousands others live ... peacefully in Iran on the sheers of the river Karoan in Khuzistan.Their race has remained pure as marriage is limited to members and whereas no member is accepted from outside the mandaean circle. They speak Mandaean with a sl ight touch of Persian and Arabic. The principal element of their religion is baptism in current water w hich is performed strictly every Sunday.
15. The Sabian Mandaeans*, followers of John the Baptist, in prayers ritual near Karoon River in Ahwaz. 2001. J,J'»)J7.)J ((tl ~ ,:,i,J>=;' l ";'1.4-. ~L....J.=i.:"
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16. Young girl saying prayers at 'Emamzadeh Yahya' Shrine on Rey street, Tehran. 2001 . . IrA' .~oJI:,..L.1 ~ 'cs.)ol;t,..;.,~ OJI:,..L.I.)J .:Ap.-"::";"J.J.=i.:"
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17. Migration of 'Bakhtiyari' nomadic tribes. 1996 . . \,VO .<s~~Jh;:fi
18. Traditional Dance of Torbate-jaam', .. Khorasan Province, 2001 .
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19. The Sabian Mandaeans* , followers of John the Baptist, in prayers ritual near Karoon River in Ahwaz. 2001. '':' J~LS JJ~).r.o- ~J ((t) ~ .:,IJ-"'"'/) ... 1.4-. ~L.... .J...=l,W
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20. Kurdish Nomad Women from 'Maku'. 1997 .• . I ry t . fit.. ~j...>:~ .:,Gj
*The initiation ceremony. or the Navjot. is the occasion when the child is admined into the Zoroastrian fold. and is then invested with ..
the outward symbols of the Faith-the shirt Isudreh) and the girdle (kusti). This investiture is a very ancient Aryan custom and is pre-Zoroastrian. It has been practiced among all the Aryans since immemorial ages. Both the Hindus and the Zoroastrians have kept it up to this day. The
Sudrah (meaning 'Sud ~ = right or true & -rah- = path) which means 'Right Path' or the 'advantageous path', is like a vest made of spotless
white muslin cloth and this garment's main characteristic being the -GAREB.AJ'f - a small pocket or a spiritual purse at the neck which
should symbolically. be kept full with good thoughts. words and deeds
24. A bulky old tree in a garden near 'Kann', north-west ofTehran. 2002.
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Location and Cl imate
Tehran, capital of Iran for more than 2 centuries, was once a small town but today ranks among the largest and most populated cities in the world. It has an area of approximately 864 square kilometres and a population of 6,758,845 (census 1996). If the satellite towns and day commuters are counted the population would stand at around 10,000,000. Administratively the city has one central municipality with 22 subordinate municipalities. The main language spoken in Tehran is Persian (Farsi) and 98.1% of the city's inhabitants are Muslims but there are many communities of ethnic and religious minorities and also of foreign citizens.
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Today Gre;ater Tehran Jtretches between the longitudes of 51 17' and 51 33' E, and the latitudes 35 36' and 35 44' N. It is situated on a gently sloping plain between the southern slopes of the Alborz mountain chain and the Great Central Desert of Iran (Dasht e Kavir). Today the city has expanded northwards right up to the foot of the mountains and southwards to the edge of the desert. The altitude range is from 900m to 1800m above sea level.
The natural setting of the Tehran region can be divided into five main landscapes:
1- In the north a range of mountains - the highest point of which is the Towchal peak (3,967m) - dominates the city. This is part of the Alborz chain. These heights afford the city stunning views - especially in the winter when they are snow-covered - and cool breezes that keep the summer air clean. On the slopes there are footpaths and climbers' shelters for walkers and rock climbers, many cafes and restaurants and two skiing resorts connected to the city with a cable car.
2- At the foot of these mountains there is' a large area of hilly terrain and river valleys, formerly studded with charming villages, gardens and fruit orchards but now mostly urban and residential. It is called Shemiran or Shemiranat and is the most expensive and exclusive part of Greater Tehran. The climate is temperate and pleasant in the summer and quite cold in winter and the rainfall and snowfall are much heavier than in the other parts of the city.
3- South of Shemiran there is a vast plain sloping gently from north to south. It is mostly featureless except for a few hilly outcrops. Most of Tehran, including the old city centre and bazaar are situated on this plain. It has hot summers, cold winters and scanty rainfall.
4- To the south, southwest and southeast the city and its satellites are encroaching onto the flat agricultural plains of Ghar, Shahriar and Varamin. The southern end of the city is the poorest part. It has very hot summers, mild winters and little precipitation.
5- Further south, beyond the last cultivated areas of the Tehran region, are the outermost basins of the great desert with its dry valleys and salt marshes. This region is very hot. barren and uninhabited.
25. The Damavand Peak. proud~ .. watching over Tehran. 2002. vo ~J til.., , .,... OrYI tlO:;) , ~..,l..J Ji
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26. A narrow lane flanked by gardens in Lavasanat summer resort in the suburbs
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27. Nature's colors at sunset in 'Chitgar' parkland. north-west ofTehran. 2002 . . I\"AI .,JI-*..r.~JL...:..~~.s-,t,..~-,,,,,",",,J~
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30. Inside the cour1yard of'Sad-Abad' palace in autumn. 2000.
3 1. 'Ahaar' Vi llage in the vicinity ofTehran. 2003. . ,r" r . .:,1.* ... ."...:. Jl....!...;o ..;L..l (St..."..;
32. An elderly couple resting in Niavaran park. 200 I . . \ r"· wG......j ·wl~J~ .s~l;o ~o.>Wt.... r::Jj
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34. A lane ftanked by trees in the historical village of 'Kann' in the north-west ofTehran. 200 1 .
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Tehran is the political and administrative nucleus of the country and houses the headquarters of all the ministries and government departments and some 90 embassies. It is also of great economic importance and many international and national trade fairs and exhibitions are held every year. The Bazaar of Tehran, with its traditional Qajar period architecture, is the largest centre for commerce in the city. Although many modern shopping centres have emerged in different parts of Tehran the bazaar still has pride of place.
Tehran is also an important centre for the arts and for cultural activities. Many arts festivals and an annual film festival are held in Tehran. Currently there are 13 'Farhangsara's (large cultural centres), 45 'Khaneh ye Farhang's (houses of culture), 60 libraries, 22 art galleries, 52 museums and many theatres and cinemas. There are also numerous religious sites in Tehran - including mosques, 'tekyeh's (religious mourning arenas) and shrines of the descendents of the Twelve Imams, as well as many Christian churches, Jewish synagogues and Zoroastrian fire temples.
Recreation and Sports
Tehran has numerous sports and recreational facilities. The mountains north ofTehran afford some of the favourite recreational activities for Tehran's residents. These include hill-walking, rock-climbing, excursions with mules and donkeys to the cafes and restaurants in the mountains or a ride on the Towchal Telecabin. In winter the Towchal skiing resorts, accessed via the telecabin, are much frequented but the skiing resorts farther away in the mountains at Dizin, Shemshak, Darbandsar, Khor and Ab e Ali are even more popular. These can be reached by car within a couple of hours maximum.
On weekends many people like to go for picnics to the orchards and villages around Tehran and to the banks of the nearby rivers of Karaj, Jajrud and Lar. There are sailing, fishing and
36 . Cellar of Nasir-ed-Dolle's mansion in the .. vicinity of Pamenaar neighborhood . 200 I .
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38. The 'Ashura' ceremony at noon, Galoobandakjunction, Tehran. 200 I.
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water skiing facilities on the lakes behind the dams on these rivers. There are numerous sports centres and clubs in the city itself. Also there are some 700 large and small parks where Tehranis spend a lot of time. There are many restaurants, cafes, snack bars and traditional tea-houses all over the city and its environs.
Transport in Tehran
Tehran has two international airports: the older Mehrabad International Airport, which is today within the city, and the larger Imam Khomeini International Airport, some 3Skm Southwest ofTehran, which was opened in 2005. Stretching over 1500 hectares, this modern airport is capable of handling 7,500,000 passengers per year.
Tehran has one large central railway station and four large coach terminals. There are rail and coach services to all parts of Iran as well as to neighbouring countries. The Tehran Metro has, at present, two lines - one connects northern Tehran to the Mausoleum of Imam Khomeini in the south and the other connects eastern Tehran with the Sadeqieh station in the west. The Sadeqieh station is the terminus of a suburban railway line that connects Tehran with Karaj and will be extended to Mehrshahr and Hashtgerd New Town. More Metro lines are under construction or proposed.
There are two electric trolley bus lines in eastern Tehran and there are numerous bus lines covering the city and its suburbs. The public taxi service runs shuttle taxi routes as well as free cabs which are usually shared but can be hired privately. There are special taxi cabs for the airports, railway station and coach terminals. There is one city owned telephone taxi company and privately owned taxi companies all over the city. Renting a car without a driver is not customary in Iran.
Even though public transportation is widespread and inexpensive in Tehran, the private motor car is still the most commonly used mode of transport. Consequently the traffic on Tehran's streets is very heavy and congestion and air pollution are great problems. In recent years many urban motorways called 'expressways' with flyovers and underpasses have been built in an effort to ease the traffic congestion.
The Traffic Restriction Plan, a comprehensive plan for traffic management, covers approximately 22 square kilometres of the city centre. From 6:30 AM to 5:00 PM every day only public transport vehicles, emergency services and those private vehicles that have permits can enter the traffic restriction zone. These permits are issued, on the payment of a fee, either annually by the Tehran Transportation and Terminals Organization or daily .
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42. An Indian herbal medicine shop on Hedayat street. 2002.
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52. A wandering dervish along his paraphernalia. 200 I .
47. A setting as part ofTehran's Zoroastrians' ceremony with the picture of Zoroaster at one end.
50. A stamp maker, working at Soltani Mosque's western entrance via Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2002.
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51. Street vendor selling barbecued cornson-the-cob and steamed broad beans at the entrance of Jamshidiye Park in the north Niavaran street. 2001.
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59. Relief above the portal of Zoroastrian's temple. Mirza-Koochek-Khan street. 200 I .
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62. The courtyard of 'Shah Abdol-Azim' holy shrine. Shahre-Rey, Tehran. 2001.
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.65. 'Emamzade Hassan', a holy shrine situated in the south-west ofTehran. 2002 .
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67. Interior of 'Safi Ali Shah' deNish monastery. Safi Ali Shah street, east of Jomhuri street. 2002.
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68. A story-tel ling DeNish, telling stories illustrated on a large canvas. Sad-Abaad palace. 200 I.
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Tehran in the Ancient and Mediaeval Eras
Tehran existed both in pre-Islamic times and in the early Islamic centuries but then it was a village or small town subordinate to Rey (Rhagae). one of the greatest and most ancient cities of the Orient. Apparently the meaning of the word Tehran' is 'warm place' in contrast with Shemiran which means 'cool place'. In older Islamic texts scholars such as Estakhri. Khatib Baghdadi and Samghani have mentioned Tehran. In the early 6th century AH Ibn Balkhi, in his 'Fars Nameh' (Book of Fars), talks about the sweetness of Tehran's pomegranates.
The following passage is from the 13th century AD book 'Mojam ol-Boldan' (Directory of Cities) by Yaqut of Hama: "I heard from an inhabitant of Rey, who was a reliable person. that Tehran is a big village
and that all of its buildings are built underground. Therefore, nobody is able to set foot in the town without the townspeople's permission. They have revolted against the reigning king several times so he has learnt his lesson and now treats them more tolerantly and diplomatically. There are twelve neighbourhoods in Tehran whose inhabitants are constantly quarrelling and fighting with each other and they form leagues and alliances among themselves. There are many orchards and gardens full of trees and thickets around the town that protect the people against invaders. He said the peasants ofTehran, despite being well-to-do and having fenced homes, never use ox driven ploughs or other ordinary farm ing implements. Instead they sow and harvest their produce in small amounts every time, out of fear, lest their oxen and farming implements should be plundered by bandits."
After Rey was levelled by the Mongol invaders in 1218 AD, Tehran began to flourish -gradually taking in some of the inhabitants of the ruined city. By the IIkhanid period it was already an important military post and had many houses and gardens. However, it was the city of Varamin that replaced Rey as the metropolis of the region.
ClavUo, the Spanish Ambassador to Iran, was the first European traveller to visit Tehran (15th Century AD). In his travel book he says: "Amir Salman Shah, a son-in-law of Tamerlane, was the governor of Rey and, since the
devastated city of Rey was still uninhabited, he resided in Varamin. He appointed a representative in Tehran and built a mansion where he stayed during his visits to Tehran. "
At that time Tehran had no walls or fortifications but ClavUo describes it as a relatively large and pleasant town, surrounded by beautiful gardens, on the verge of becoming an important city.
Although there is a consensus among histw;ians that Tehran existed as a village from ancient times and as a town at least since the 9 Century AD ., no historical monuments have remained from those early times - probably because it was a relatively small place overshadowed by the great and important city of Rey in its vicinity.
71 . 'Bo~e Khamush', a burial site for Zoroastrians to place their dead in open air. Situated on the northern foothills of Rey mound. Drawing adopted from the book ''La perse" by: Mme Jane dieulafoy, Printed in 1887. ~J w~J.>" wJIJ).,i (S1y..r-4> . (S~ • .J!.')L....!. ~IJ ~J wL!. ... ld..1£Y. ~ LA~:..uJ
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73. The ruins of ancient Rey situated 9 kilometers south ofTehran. Photo from: "IRAN DAS NEUE PERSIEN, BY: AXEL VON GRAEFF, 1937. '01~I .)J IS~ ·01.,...",,~ IS""".# , .)J 0'"-....4 IS.) ISLA ~I"';'
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74. 'Shah Tahrnasbsafavi 1', founder of first towers, parapets and gateways in Tehran. Drawing from the book "History of Persian" by:Johan Malcom/1815. to.>! ~ ,,"4 '(S~ J .. I.,.....~.W. ' ul~1 t-=~L:; ·Ul.>+-' (SU .jI .. ~,) .... ~L ..
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Tehran was less important than Rey in the middle ages. From the 16th century AD onwards the attention paid to it by various kings, most notably Shah Tahmasb I of the Safavid dynasty and Karim Khan Zand, indicates that it had gained significant political and military importance and had, by then, already eclipsed and replaced the older City.
According to Reza Qoli Khan Hedayat in his 'Rowzat os-Safa ye Nasseri' the Safavid Shah Tahmasb I, whose capital was Qazvin, often visited the holy shrine of Shah Abd ol-Azim near Rey where his ancestor, Seyyed Hamzeh, was buried and he also went hunting in the vicinity ofTehran. He was fond ofTehran and constructed forts and watchtowers around it and sent important figures from among his loyal retainers to govern the city.
Minorsky says that a market-place was established in Tehran in 1555, and according to the book 'Zinat ol-Majales' (The Ornament of Banquets), the city had a wall with a circumference of one parasang (6km) and four gates (darvazehs) - namely Qazvin Gate, Dulab Gate, Shemiranat Gate and Shah Abd ol-Azim Gate - as well as 114 towers (equivalent to the number of the Chapters of the Holy Koran) .
The walls of the city were known as Hesar e Tahmasbi (Shah Tahmasb's Rampart). Apparently the earth used for erecting these walls and towers was brought from Chaleh Meydan and Chaleh Hesar (Chaleh means earth pit, a Meydan is a square, a racecourse or an open space and Hesar means fortress wall or rampart). Both areas subsequently became city quarters in Tehran. According to the author of 'Haft Eqlim' (The Seven Climes), at this time Tehran had many gardens and qanats (subterranean water channels), especially in the Shemiranat district and other neighbouring villages, namely Kan and Suleqan.
Pietro della Valle, the famous Italian traveller who stayed in Iran from 1617 to 1624, calls Tehran 'the city of plane-trees' . He says: 'Tehran is a large city - vaster than Qazvin. This city has very large gardens and orchards. Tehran is the capital of a governorate that has the same name and is the seat of a Khan. Many water channels run in its avenues which are lined with plane trees. Never in my life have I seen so many huge and beautiful plane trees and I must call Tehran the 'City of Plane Trees'. The plane trees are so large that two men, holding hands, cannot hold a tree between them in their arms."
In the reign of Shah Abbas I, Tehran had a Beyglarbeygi (military governor). Shah Abbas built a quadripartite garden with cruciform paths and a plane tree grove in the northern part of the town within the Tahmasbi ramparts. Shah Soleyman later built a pavilion in this garden which served as a temporary residence for the Safavid Shahs while in Tehran. It was in this pavilion that Shah Soltan Hossein received the envoy of the Ottoman Sultan. The old Jame' Mosque (Friday Mosque) of Tehran was built in the reign of Shah Abbas II and became the focal point of the city.
Among the few remaining relics of the Safavid period are the the portal of Emamzadeh Seyyed Nasr ed-Din's shrine (1527) with its inscription and the Chehel Tan (FOrty Martyrs) shrine near Dulab.
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80. Karim Khan-e- Zand. Drawing from the book: "La Parse" by: M. Louis Debeux, 1 841 .
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The first Arg (citadel) of Tehran was apparently constructed, on the site of the large Safavid royal garden in the north of the city, by the Afghan invaders who had toppled the Safavid regime. After defeating and expelling the Afghans and setting aside the last Safavid claimant, the great general Nadhr Ooli Khan ascended the throne as Nader Shah Afshar. He chose Mashhad as his capital but in 1742 he appointed his son and heir Reza Ooli Mirza as governor of Tehran. This indicates the strategic importance of the city in that period .
In the chaos and confusion following the murder of Nader Shah, Tehran came under the influence of the Oajars who were rivals of Karim Khan Zand for power. Having finally defeated and killed the Oajar chieftain Mohammad Hassan Khan, Karim Khan Zand arrived in Tehran with his troops in 1 759 . A year later he ordered the erection of palaces, courts and harems (seraglios) in the Arg (citadel) and restored its watchtowers and fortifications . The citadel, which from then on had well defined limits, was often referred to as the Arg e Karim Khani . Apparently, Karim Khan intended to adopt Tehran as his capital. However, in 1763, he decided to transfer his seat of government to Shiraz, a well-developed city more suitable for serving as the capital, where he could have more control over his trouble-making tribal allies.
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84. "Agha Mohammad Khan-e Qajar", Drawing from the book "History of Persia" by: John Malcom/ 1815. ·r\A\O,~u~,ul.)h~;,~t,~~l:iuL>..J.=..oUi
85. 'Fathali Shah e Oajar'. Photograph from the book: "Du Khorassan au Pays des Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Renr d'Ailemagne, 1910. ' lS~~ t uL....I"p'.:,I ·~4l:i.L!. ~
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83 . The 'Arg' square . 'Takhte Marmar' portico, 'Aqa Mohammad Khan' tow er and Toope Morvarid' . Photo courtesy "Voyage en Parse" by Eugene Flandin et Pascal Coste, I 840-4 I . . (J \rov.\ro")J;»J.>""'YJuL>.~l:iTIOY. ,.>".>"~~J.>-' '~)ul~
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After the death of Karim Khan land, Aqa Mohammad Khan Qajar claimed the throne, first proclaiming his rebellion against the lands in the vicinity of Tehran. He gradually defeated and hunted down all the land claimants. In 1786 he moved the seat of his government from the Caspian provinces to Tehran - a fortress city in a defensible position surrounded by mountains and advantageously close to his tribal home in the Plain of Astar Abad.
He ascended the throne on the Nowruz (Iranian New Year's Day - 21 March) of that year. Coins were struck with his image and Friday Sermons were said in his name. Thus Tehran became the capital city of Iran and at first was given the title Dar os-Saltaneh (Royal Abode). Aqa-Mohammad Khan spent most of his time at war quelling local rebellions and he was not very interested in erecting great and splendid monuments. He only built the Khoruji building in the Golestan Garden and parts of the Takht e Marmar building for which he used building material from the palace of Karim Khan land in Shiraz which he had demolished.
After the death of the founder of the dynasty his nephew Khan Baba Khan rushed to Tehran from Shiraz in Fars where he had been appointed governor by his uncle. He ascended the throne assuming the title Fath Ali Shah. He ordered the digging of a moat around the city and he repaired the old ramparts and fortifications. Other important buildings constructed or started in Fath Ali Shah's long reign include the Golestan Palace, Masjed e Shah (King's Mosque), Masjed e Azizollah, Madreseh ye Khan e Marvi (a religious school) and several gardens with pavilions such as the Negarestan and Laleh lar. Fath Ali Shah also added a fifth gate, called Darvazeh Dowlat - north of the Arg, to the four existing gates on the Tahmasbi Rampart. His grandson and successor, Mohammad Shah, added a sixth gate in the south called Mohammadieh Gate.
Apart from the construction of fortifications, gates and Dar ol-Hokumehs (government departments) few public works were built in Tehran in the early Qajar period and trade, industry and welfare services were generally neglected.
86. Relief of 'Fathali Shah' on the Sorsoreh Mount. Rey., Drawing from the book: "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandin et Pascal coste, 1840-41. J u~)lj u')JI fu1y-1.;.l ~ .(5.) f ~>-..>-""~.,s..).l tiL!. ~ ~y. ~
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87. Mohammad-Shah Oajar, successor of Fath-ali Shah. Drawing from the book "Du Khorassan au Pays du Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Rene d'A1lemagne, 1910. <syLA ' <SJ~ t; wL...l~ jI .• L!. ~ ~4- J4-u .L!..l.L>-o
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88. Nasser-ed-Dinn Shah Oajar, successor of Mohammad Shah. Drawing from the book "Persia and Persian" by: S.G.W. Benjamin, 1887. '1:: '<J" 'w~I~1 J wl~1 .• L!..l.L>-o ~4- ' J4-u.L!. We.lll."...,t;
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89 . Mouzafar-ed-Dinn Shah Oajar, successor of Nasser-ed-Dinn Shah. Photograph from the book "Du Khorassan au Pays du Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Rene d'A1lemagne, 1910. t; wL.....l~ jI .• L...!. ~.llI."...,L; ~4 'J4u.L...!. ~.lll~
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The Capital in the Mid-Oajar Period (Reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah)
The long reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah - the son of Mohammad Shah - began in 1848. His first chancellor was Mirza Taqi Khan Amir Kabir who w as a great reformer. Amir Kabir's reforms inaugurated a significant progressive movement influenced by western civilization . Public demands were met through the establishment of schools and factories. CL1Itural activities were enhanced, educational institutions were founded, the bureaucratic system was formed and government departments, courts, embassies, etc. were established and civil law was enforced. The downfall and murder of Amir Kabir brought about a setback to the reforms.
It was later in the reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah that an office was established to manage the city's gates, customs and revenues. At first it was called the Ehtesabieh (Municipal Revenues Office). Later, other bureaux set up to manage lighting and food supply, were affiliated with the Ehtesabieh to form a new bureau that was called the Baladieh (Municipality) . After the Municipality other offices were founded such as the Royal Post Office, Bureau of Public Order (Police) and Railway (a narrow gauge line for steam-powered trains carrying passengers between Tehran and the Shah Abd ol-Azim shrine near Rey - popularly called the 'Mashin Dudi', which means Smoky Machine). Inside the city there were six portal gates surrounding the large Meydan e Tupkhaneh ye
Mobarakeh (Royal Arti llery Square), which was on the site of the old Darvazeh Dowlat plaza north of the Arg. One of these was the old Darvazeh Dowlat itself that opened into the Arg. The Royal Arg had three other gates as well.
The most important buildings remaining from the reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah are additions to the Golestan Palace, additions to the sh rine of Seyyed Nasr ed-Din, the Tekyeh ye Dowlat (Government Mourning Arena), the Dar ol-Fonun (Technical College) and the Mosque and Madreseh (Seminary) of Sepahsalar.
Tehran in the Late Oajar Period
After Nasser ed-Din Shah was assassinated in 1895 by Mirza Reza Kermani in the holy shrine of Shah Abd ol-Azim, his son Mozaffar ed-Din Shah came to the throne. Among the buildings constructed during his reign are the Farah Abad Palace and the Filsuf od-Dowleh School. This coincided with the advent of the Constitutional Movement, and thus the construction of new buildings and the expansion of the city were overshadowed by political events and upheavals. Merchants, clergymen and the middle class in Tehran were the main force behind the Constitutional Movement.
After the Constitutional Revolution, during the short reign of Mohammad Ali Shah and the period of regency for his young son Ahmad Shah, the capital gained new social significance. Parliament, modern government departments and new financial and economic institutions emerged. Ahmad Shah came of age in 1914, which coincided with the outbreak of World War I. Obviously there was little development during the war. Eventually, Reza Shah Pahlavi removed Ahmad Shah from the throne and put an end to the Qajar period.
90. 'FathAl~Shah' . Dr<llNing from the book: "La Per>e" try: M. Louis Debiuk. 1841 . ·t 'An ,y..J~..;...,J 'u1y-1 ·uL.j)L,.J J4-U.1...:. ~
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92. Ahmad Shad (seated I, the last of the Qajar kings and his Prince, Mohammad Hassan Mirza. Private collection. .J J4u .L...!.~t,.. W-='p-1 (~) .L...l.~1 '~""~ '(~.J)lj>.'""0=>-.>=..o
93. The Entrance of the Soltani Mosque. Drawing from the book: "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandim et Pascal coste, 1840-4 1. ·t 'A\"_ 'AI'· ,u....$ J~t,.. ... u"')Ij UJ.JI·uly-IJ~.,i- ,(.J ' rov_, rot)...>u..J.... ~ (s~.JJ.July'1
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94. A panoramic view of part ofTehran along with the eastern fort of the Arg. Photo courtesy "Benjamin, S. G. W.: Persia and Persians" 1887. ,J wl,.>:!1 ,~) .... ,.,..:. <sLA ~..>! ,J.>L...... ,J wi.,... jI ~ <sw.>,JJ
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95. Panoromic view of the gunpowder factory outside Tehran, 1840-41 . Drawing from the book:
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96. View of the Shah Abdol-Azim Court. Drawing from the book: "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandin et Pascal Coste. 1840-41 . . t IAfI_ lAt· ,.;......S: JIS.....I,.,Jwo,;)ljw.J,J1 ,wly-I.>J.,i- ,( . ..; I rov_ I rot) ~I~.::..~ ~G....i <sW
97. View of the eastern wing of the Marble Throne Hall, 1 840-41 . Drawing from the book: "Voyage en Perse" by: Engene Flandin et Pascal Coste. 1840-41 ·t IAt 1- lAt· ,.;......S: JIS.....4.Jwo,;)lj w.),J1 ,wly-I.>J.,i- ,( . ..; I rov_ I rot).>".>".:.;.:; wl,Y-I .... ,.,..:. F <sW
98. View of one of Tehran's alleys, circa 1840-41 . Drawing from the book: "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandin et Pascal Coste, 1840-41 . . t IAfUAf, , ,,,~.~ Jl$.....luw ... )i.i wjJI . wl~IJJ."L (.J I rov -I rot) ,).>+"JJ (51 'T.J>
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99. The old Dowlat Gate, 1840-41. Drawing from the book: Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene Flandin et Pascal Coste, 1840-4 1 . ·t I Afl_ I Af· : .... 4- . .:...-S J lS....l.! Ju';;)l; u.J.J I .J>=I ~J..,L. (.J I rov_ I r ot) ~.;j ulJJ .).J~J
100. The 'Toop khaneh' Square and the 'Imperial Bank' building and The Gate of Cheragh Gaz Avenue. Photograph from the book: "Du Khorassan Au Pays des Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Rene d'Ailemagne, 191 O. ""L.!. .!UW ""J~ .,"~y ,j1~ uL..I? .:,1.)S tlF,- uW~ J.lJ-""') • ",L.JI.l ~J (S,.,..;U ' (SJ~ ~
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102. Woman playing 'taar'. Photograph from the book: "Du Khorassan Au Pays des Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Rem d'Ailemagne. 1910. '(SJ~ ~ uL...I? .:,1'J~ ~"".:,1y
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103. 'Shams-ol-Emareh' Building. Drawing from the book: "Persia and Persians" by: S.G. W. Benjamin. 1887. ·r 'MV .u,...~ . .).( . ..,.. .ut,.;IY-1.)ulY-1 .• Jt......Il...,.......:.""Jw.
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105. Dr.Tholozan Drawing from the book: "La Perse" by: Mme. Jeanne Dieulafoy. printed in 1887. ' r I MY .I..,.~y'ol rlolt.. • u l.>=1. .I...!. .:r..J.lIy""G &!.~ . u1j-..Jy.;:.sol
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104. Palanquin. Drawing from the book: "La Perse," BY: M. Louis Debeux, I 84 I . ·r IAfI : '<'~ 'y'jol.jo-..J . ul.>=l·ulj'>~
106. A Qajar woman. Drawing from the book: "La Perse" by: Mme. Jeanne Dieulafoy. printed in 1887.
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1 09. Prince 'Mohammad Reza Pahlavi'. Phot courtesy "History of Iranian Industry" by: J.Kristi Vylson". 1938. i:-eJl-" '~J <sJ-4.. L-;J~ '~J ,~J. ' ( ,wl.r.!1 ~L.:.....o
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110. 'Reza Shah Pahlavi' in the first decade of his reign (1 925-1941 ). Iran's National Heritage Organization archives. .::-.~ JJI uo '<sJ4... .L.;,WJ
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In this period, apart from the radical social and political reforms, the country's communication infrastructure and industries were developed. The construction of the national railway network, the expansion of government organisations, the formation of the army, the establishment of banks and new ministries, all revolutionised the face of the country and led to the rapid expansion of its capital - Tehran. A great number of parks, financial establishments, educational centres, cultural institutions, libraries and medical centres were built. and consequently, most socio-economic and political activities were concentrated in Tehran.
Tehran in the reign of Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi
During the war years 194 1-1945, when Iran was under the occupation of the Allies, and in the years of upheaval 1945 - 1953 when Mohammad Reza Shah had not yet gained absolute power and his rule was shaky, there were few significant developments in Tehran. After the Coup d'Etat of Aug. 1953 and up to the Islamic Revolution (1979) the city witnessed very rapid growth - often patchy and disorganized. Many new buildings, streets, avenues, boulevards and residential and industrial areas were added. Among the most outstanding buildings built in the reign of Mohammad Reza Shah are the Azadi (Shahyad) Tower and the Senate.
This was a period of real social development in Tehran. There was an influx of immigrants from the vi llages into the capital, especially after 1 962 when the land reforms and abolition of the feudal system initially led to a deterioration of the agricultural economy of the countryside, intenSifying the process of immigration. Within 25 years the daytime population of Tehran rose from about 1,500,000 to about 4,530,000 (census 1976). The area of the city increased from approximately 30 square kilometres in 1957 to 213 square kilometres in 1971 and 567 square kilometres in 1 977.
113. 'Toop Khaneh' square,. The Post & Telegraph Building and the sculpture of Pahlavi I on a horse. 1946. ~I~ J "'-'".! wL..::...;.L.. ,"':'~y wl,,:;
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117. A change in the traditional structure of the Iranian society and the manifestation of western standards during Phlavi I period . Photo from: "IRAN DAS NEUE PERSIEN,BY: AXEL VON GRAEFF, 1937. '(5.Ai .~L.;.J u.,fo. JJI:""o JO "lel~ "'.>' (5LA), ...... rlJJ J ,:,!Y-I ...... 4- ~..:.i~ .;.J.~o
119. Street decorations along 'Lalezaar' street during Pahlavi period. 1931. Photo from: "IRAN DAS NEUE PERSIEN,BY: AXEL VON GRAEFF, 1937 .
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120. Toopkhaneh Square in the Vicinity of the ciy center. The City Hall to the north and the Telecommunications building to the south of it. All. samples of Rezah Shah's period, 1946. "'~ ~J u1y'ld... uL.:;;.L..,J JL..!. ~J (S)J""":' uL.:;;.L.. .ul.* (S.JSy> ~J,J=-- ~J ('-F) "~y ul~
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122. Imam Khomeini's golddomed mausoleum. 2001 . . 'r A, .,)-* "'~ .~ tL.I.ay>
Tehran was the scene of the most important historical events, clashes and demonstrations during the Islamic Revolution of 1978 - 1979. After the revolution, the disorderly and undisciplined growth of the city was accentuated - especially as many of the restrictions of the former regime on building were lifted. There was also an influx of refugees: Afghans fleeing from the Soviet invasion of their country, Iraqis expelled by the Baath regime and Iranians fleeing from the war stricken provinces of the southwest and west after the Iran -Iraq War ( 1 980-1 988) started. The population of the city grew very rapidly and many new marginal suburbs were integrated into it while many new slum townships mushroomed around it. In those years the city was managed very poorly and there was little organized development.
Since the end of the war a period of more systematic urban planning and development has emerged. Many new avenues, urban expressways, parks, cultural centres and sports facilities have been added. Also hundreds of high-rise apartment blocks and commercial skyscrapers have mushroomed all over the city - especially in the well-to-do north. Among the major projects initiated in this period or recently completed the Tehran Metro, the Imam Khomeini International Airport, the Nawab urban regeneration project, the Milad Tower and the many new expressways and flyovers are worthy of mention.
The Historic Sites of Tehran
The great majority of the outstanding buildings and monuments extant in Tehran were built in the last two centuries when it was the capital of Iran. The city's mixed texture, with modern skyscrapers erected right beside the old buildings and monuments, provides a unique spectacle and an unforgettable experience for the tourist. Each one of Tehran's historical sites is reminiscent of the ups and downs of the history of the city and makes it a very rich, if little known, destination for cultural tourism.
123. A noctumal view ofTehran .2002 . • _''(A' . ~.)..Iul~
124. 'Moshir-ed-Oolle' arched passageway. Molavi street. A remaining arcade from Qajar period. 2001 . . irA, . <s.h· Ulot;.;. '~4-li~~jJ~~i) '.r.-R-Y"'~~ ,.:.hLJ'~~~
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125. An old mansion on Neauphle-Ie-Chateau' street opposite the Russian Embassy. 2001 . . I fA· .~j~ u).i .... .r.~ F <s.J~ ~.J~ ,.":;L..;,,,J Jiy Ulot;.;. ~J....,. ... <s' ",l1..
126. Christian New Year Eve held in • Sourp Serkis Armenian Apostolic Church on Villa Street. 2001 . . <.)".u. U"!'J-' <s~ ,~.,..:. JL... ;---'.".
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127. Tehran nestling in the foothills of A1borz Mountain ranges. 2002 . . \i A' .~~I""IJ.;J "-':;.o.;;',)-*'
128. 'Atisaz' residential complex off 'Chamran' highway. 2001. . \,. II· .,)1.>4' .1~Jj; ,jL... .... T .... fi-=o ~
129. A view of residential and office blocks in the north ofTehran. 2002 .
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132 . Bucharest Street. leading to • Argentine Square, Tehran 2004 . . ''"' Ar ,c..J:W1j)' c.J1~ "-:' ~ ..:........J~ c.)':1~
133. The priest ofTehran's Evangelical Church along with his family. 'Ghavam-ol-Saltaneh' street. 2002.
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135. A highway winding. towards the north of Tehran. 2002 . . ,r A' .,)->t-' JI......!. ~J u-"I~~y'
134. 'Hazrate Abdol Azim' Holy Shrine. 2000. ., rv~ . ~I"", u~
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The word Meydan is the Persian word for a square, roundabout, plaza, open space and even a race course. In the middle Qajar period, there were six main Meydans in Tehran: Meydan e Tupkhaneh ye Mobarakeh (Royal Artillery Square), Meydan e Baharestan, Meydan e Arg e Mobarakeh, Meydan e Paqapoq (also known as E'dam or Mohammadieh Square), Sabzeh Meydan and Meydan e Mashq (Military Parade Ground). In the 1870s, twelve new plazas were built in front of the twelve new city gates. The designers of these gate plazas were architects from Bohemia, France, Germany and Denmark. Today there are some 250 large and small squares across the city - about 50 of which have been constructed in recent years. Typical features of the squares are pools, fountains and, in some cases, statues. Some of the largest squares of Tehran are the following (old names in parentheses): Africa, Azadi (Shahyad), BasU (Afsarieh), Tajrish, Vanak, Madar (Mohseni), Argentine, Jahad (Iran e Novin), Enghelab (24th Esfand), Hassan Abad, Jomhuri e Eslami (Mohammad Reza Shah) and Emam Hossein (Fowzieh) squares.
136. 'Mokhber-ed-Dolle' crossroads at the 137. A building on the eastern section of'Molavi' intersection of Sadi & Jomhuri streets 1953. square built during Pahlavi I period . 2002 .
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Baharestan Square
If buildings and locations could talk, Baharestan Square would have the most memories to narrate about the historic events it has witnessed. The square was named after the Baharestan building on its east side, which became the home of Iran's Parliament. Being at the nerve centre of the country's politics, the large square in front of the parliament building became the site of numerous political meetings, demonstrations, clashes and even gun battles, and has witnessed many important and decisive pol itical events. The statues in the square have been changed several times.
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142. Front view of the Parliament Building 'Majlis', situated on the east of 'Baharestan' square. Pahlavi I period.
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143. The lush historical 'Negarestan' Garden in the north of 'Baharestan' square.200 I.
145. North-western corner of Hassan Abaad square. 2003 . . IrA'r . ..,....:..)""4i~.:,I~.r.-"J~~
The site of this square was part of a property owned by Mirza Yussef Khan Mostowfi 01-Mamalek Ashtiani, one of the chancellors of Nasser ed-Din Shah Qajar, and named Hassan Abad after his son Mirza Hassan Khan Mostowfi ol-Mamalek. It was outside the city walls at the northwestern corner of the city and the site became a wide open space after the city was expanded in 1870. In the reign of Reza Shah Pahlavi, four symmetrical, arc-shaped buildings in the style of Palladio - the great Italian Renaissance architect - were constructed on the four corners of this square. Thus the square was converted into an attractive round piazza.
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146. View of the pillars and ornaments of one of the four identical buildings at Hasan Abaad square. 2003 . . IrA 'r ·J4i ~ .:,I~ <5Y"'')~ .:,L.::.;.L....)~) ~ <5.4;,:,y...,J u~':';
147. Detail of upper ftoor of Hassan Abaad Building and the metal dome. North west of Hassan Abaad square. 2003 . . ,r A r .JLT ~ 01..,... u;Y- ~L....!. F (S.:,Jj ~" .... u.".; ~.:,I (SloW.fi
148. Unveiling the statue of 'Nasser-ed-Dinn Shah on a horse' in actual size in the courtyard of the government's arsenal. 1886 . ..>-!)",........:.L!:. 0-:'..wI~t:,~..I...T ~.)I c.s).lJ-:' <).J..):! r-"'Iyo
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Bagh e Shah (the King's Garden) was built mainly in Nasser ed-Din Shah Oajar's reign and was used as a royal residence and place of recreation. It was located outside Tehran, on the west of the new city walls. Fath Ali Shah had erected a building on the northern side of a parade ground to which Mohammad Shah and Nasser ed-Din Shah added other premises and a race course in 1859. The place was called 'Bagh-e Shah' because there was a green belt of trees planted around the course and a large lake, fed by a Oanat (underground water channel), next to it. One of the old monuments of Bagh e Shah was an equestrian statue of Nasser ed-Din Shah erected on a platform in the middle of the lake. There were some 600 fountains in the lake and the walks around it. In the reign of Reza Shah Pahlavi the Bagh e Shah was converted into a military base and barracks .
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151. Southem gate of the 'Arg' opposite Takhte Pol' 1863. Aloto courtesy Piemontese, AM.: ,AJbum of Italian Diplomatic Mission to Persia, 1972. ...,.& r~i (.J I rv,) ~ ~ J;u. .-S)..r.~ • .:,1 ... ~o "=<'·r·1c...:. ...... 0;~..,. :,-",~ . .:,Iy-I ~o l:J~1 L>"'t,...... ~
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152. The 'Arg' square in early spring. Aloto courtesy Dr. Feuvrier, 'Trois ans a la Cour de Perse", 1906. 'r'" t '~~"""'j£.o . .:,Iy-I)-!~~JL.. ...... .i.J..;Y~-S).:,I"""
153. The 'Arg' square. Takhte Marmar' portico, 'Aqa Mohammad Khan' tower and T oope Morvarid'. Photo courtesy 'Voyage en Parse" by Eugene Flandin et Pascal Coste, 1840-41 .
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Tehran's Arg e Mobarakeh (Royal Citadel) is situated in the heart of the city between today's . . ~
Imam Khomelnl Square and Avenue on the north, Khayyam Avenue on the west. 1 5 Khordad Avenue on the south and Nasser Khosrow Avenue on the east. It was the stronghold of the kings and the seat of government in the Qajar period. It was originally constructed during the Afghan invasion of Iran at the end of the Safavid period on the site of an old Safavid garden. It had a rampart and moat that separated it from other parts of the city in order to protect the Afghan garrison from the populace. When Karim Khan Zand was planning to make Tehran his capital the Arg was surrounded by high walls and converted into a royal residence with gardens and seraglios and was called the Arg e Karim Khani. Karim Khan moved his capita l to Shiraz but afterwards the Qajar Shah's made Tehran their seat of government and the Arg their main residence. The Golestan Palace was built by Fath Ali Shah and today there are many buildings of the Qajar period still standing in the Arg.
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155. Southern gate of the 'Arg' opposite Takhte Pol' 1860-61 Photo courtesy Brugsen. Heinrich: Reise dar K. Preussischen 1 862. ·r IMr '~jy'';'~t.., IMUM· '01.;eI~J,,".J.>I~u~lL..,~"""" .(J IrvA..lrvV)J..':';':;..4li..~J ,~)~~~jlj~J
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The entrance gate to 'Cheragh Gaz' street via 'Toop Khane' square. Photograph from the book "Du Khorassan au Pays du Bakhtiaris" by: Henry Rene d'A1lemagne, I 91 O. G wL...I""';'.)I .";ld..,oy wl....,...)I:,L! tl.>-T w4t,;.;. .;.,.;-
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The Meydan e Tupkhaneh ye Mobarakeh (Royal Artillery Square), which is now called Imam Khomeini Square, is a very vast square. In the past it was a plaza outside the northern entrance of the old Royal Arg, with a gate on the city wall called Darvazeh Dowlat (the old one) and people who wanted to enter the citadel from outside Tehran would have to cross this square. In 1851 by the order of Mirza Taqi Khan Amir Kabir, the first chancellor of Nasser ed-Din Shah Oajar, the royal artillery park was transferred from the Arg Square on the south side of the Arg to the Darvazeh Dowlat plaza on its north side. A new arsenal (Ghurkhaneh) was also built in the southwest corner of this square. Until about the end of the Oajar period cannon were deployed in this square and fired for ceremonial purposes like the announcement of the beginning of the Iranian New Year.
157. The toopkhaneh Square and the Imperial Bank Building and the Gate 0 Cheragh Gaz
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158. Northern part of 'Toop Khaneh' square, the City Hall. 1946 . . Ino .tS)"~tS~''';~YWI~~L....!.
159. Northern view of 'Toop Khaneh' square, The City Hall and one end of 'Laale Zaar' street. 1940's . . ~ U.J .))..J'I' .:,l;~ <s1~1.J <S).J~ .:,l..:i.d..L.. ,';6.,.", .:,I",,""..-II......!. <sW
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162. The Imperial Bank Building and the Gate of 'Cheragh Gaz' Avenue. Photograph from the book "Persien in wort und Bild" by: Friedrick Rosen. 1926 . . ~ \ \ r f' ,,j~J~ .5.:~""; , y-.,....,u.J <..J$~" ,jly-I .)~ UP.- ,j4~ ~".J-"'.J <S"I...!. ~L
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164. Eastern view of Toop Khane' square with the brick building of Tejarat Bank'. 1946.
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This square was once part of a large plot of land at the northern end of the Tehran Bazaar and outside the southern limits of the Arg. Here vegetables were grow n for the Tehran markets - hence its name Sabzeh Meydan IGreen Square). By the beginning of the Middle Qajar period most of the green plot had been absorbed into the Bazaar but part of it had become a rubbish dump. On the order of Mirza Taqi Khan Amir Kabir - the first chancellor of Nasser ed-Din Shah - this was cleared and a square was built on the site. During the 'Minor Tyranny' of Mohammad Ali Shah some of the constitutionalists were executed in Sabzeh Meydan 11908).
165. 'Sabzeh Meydaan' square and part of the 'Arg' limits. 1848. Photo courtesy "Allemayne, Henry Rened': Ou Khorassan au Pays des Bakhtiaris", 1910.
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168. 'Baghayegh' square in the south west ofTehran, end ofKhayam street. Oajar period. 'f~ w~~ <sy:;.;1 ·(~.>=..o-fl""'-I)J",l:i4 wi"':;'>
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169. Public execution in 'Edaam' square, Oajar period .Jbl:i .J"" ·fl"",-I wl"':;'>J" f~ ')l. J" fl""'-I i'"""1.>"
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The Paqapoq (Foot of the Pillory) or E'dam (Execution) Square, also called Mohammadieh Square, is one of the oldest squares of the city. It was once an open space located at the southern edge of the city outside the old Safavid period wall. It was then used for public floggings and hangings. Convicts were either punished on the pillOry (Qapoq) or hanged from the gallows in the center of this square, hence its names - Paqapoq or E'dam (execution) Square.
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173. The stately maple tree in the courtyard of 'Emamzadeh Saleh' in Shemiran district. ·Picture courtesy: "La Perse" by: Mme. Jane Dieulafoy, printed in 1887. ,I..,.yy-o ~Iol.. ,,)y-I .,)~ ~o col~ .ol.:,..l..l ~4
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The district called Shemiran or Shemiranat - north of central Tehran - is situated at the foot of the A1borz Mountains. It had a specific role in Tehran because of its temperate climate and spectacular mountain views. Formerly it was full of orchards and summer palaces. Now it is mostly built up with expensive housing.
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174. Local Market atthe eastern stretch ofTajrish square. 2001.
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175. 'Tajrish' square, an open market adjacent to 'Emamzade Saleh' , a Holy Shrine. 2001.
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176. The Grand 'Tekiye' in Tajrish square, a religious theater, used as a fruit and vegetables markets at times not used for religious ceremonies. 2001 .
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177. 'Shahyad Tower' under construction in 1970. Picture courtesy: L'OEil magazine No. I 99-200. L' 0 E I I ~ . Irn .<SJ I~T (Y. <S~ J$...!. .?Iy>
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Azadi Square, with its memorial tower, was built in 1 972 in an area of 5 hectares in the Western part of Tehran. There is a museum in the basement of the monument. This famous edifice, with its imposing architecture derived from a variety of styles - from Ancient Persian through Islamic to Modern European, has in fact become the symbol of Tehran. It was constructed in the form of a gate. The foundation has an area of about 400 square metres. It is 53 metres high and 66 metres wide. The height of the vault from the ground is 23 metres.
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180. 'Azadi Tower', a blend of modern and ancient architecture, inspired by Taghe Kassra' with SeUukian pillar-ends and Islamic architectural designs in the form of a gateway. 2004 . . \ r A r · .. A,,,.I ~.A,.)o <:',s. ~ J ..,..)L.I wl.)Jo (S.)L...... J .... ~ (SU(Y. j"" 4 (S';-s..iu.) ~ (Sol) (Y.
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183. A turner making hand-caNed hookahs. Tehran Bazaar. Drawing adopted from "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene- Flandin et Pascal Coste, 1840-41. JlS.....t,. J w..,)l; w~JI .J)~I ~J ......... . J,... )j~ ~J ..,bl"";" ~jl.i...
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184. A panorama of Tehran's Grand Bazaar as .. viewed from 'Sabze Meydaan'. Photo courtesy Iranian National Heritage Organization archives.1868 . . t lArA /.j I r AO . wi"=,,, • .:,;.... u.o....jlwl.,.:; .s~juljLjlueW~JJ
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In Iranian cities the bazaar, or traditional market place, has always been the most important place for commercial, pOlitical, social and cultural activities and has long been a multi-purpose centre for buying and selling goods, meeting other people and socialising. Today the socioeconomic conditions have changed drastically in Tehran yet the traditional activities in the great Bazaar ofTehran continue unhindered and it has retained its role as the economic heart and main trade centre of the city and the whole country.
Extending from Sabzeh Meydan to Mowlavi Avenue, the bazaar is a vast complex of passageways and sinuous alleys with seemingly endless rows of 'dokkan's (small shops) and 'hojreh's (shops within an arcade). Originally started before the Safavid period, the Bazaar was expanded at the time of Shah Tahmasb, and found its present form at the time of Fath Ali Shah Qajar. There are two 'Chahar-Suq's (intersections) in the Bazaar called the ChaharSuq e Bozorg (Great Crossroads) and the Chahar-Suq e Kuchak (Small Crossroads), connecting the different parts of the bazaar where there are smaller specialized markets. These smaller sections are called Rasteh, Bazarcheh, Timcheh, Sara, Rahrow or Dalan depending on their shape and function.
Some of the most important specialized markets in the bazaar are: the Shoemakers' Market, the Sales Market, the Bookbinders' Market, the Money-exchange market. Timcheh ye Mahdieh, Timcheh ye Hajeb od-Dowleh, Bazarcheh ye Amin ol-Molk, Dalan e Shiraziha (Shirazis' market passageway), Bazaar e Bein ol-Haramein (Bazaar between the two Sanctuaries), the Broadcloth Dealers' Dalan and the Gabrs' (Zoroastrians') Dalan . Apart from traditional goods such as carpets, imported goods including home appliances, decorative and luxury items, stationery and almost all the requirements of urban life can be found in the Bazaar these days.
*Timcheh ye Ala' od-Oowleh
Constructed in the mid-19th century by Mirza Rahim Khan Ala' od-Dowleh, this section of the Bazaar demonstrates the typical characteristics of Iranian bazaars.
*Timcheh ye Qeysarieh
This Timcheh, with its large double-shelled ceiling that insulates it from the heat and the cold, was built in the Qajar period behind the greater Chahar-suq.
185. A street vendor in front of decorations for the month of 'Muharam' mourning ceremonies. Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2001 . . ,r A· ·wl~ ).:,4 '?"..?'-4 ~Lo J") <.S).JIj£:. ~I..;-o ~~~,Jfi ~.)J.J ~~,J~
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188. 'Saraye Amir, Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2002 . . \ r" \ .,).".. .s.'oY. ).;,4,.>:-1 (51.J-'" 'c....I,O
*Timcheh ye Mahdieh
Built in the mid-19th century, this Timcheh has a large barrel vault.
*Chahar-Suq e Bozorg
The Great Chahar-Suq is one of the oldest existing structures in Tehran and dates back to the time of the adoption of Tehran as the seat of government.
* Bazaar e Amir (Sara ye Amir)
This bazaar was built by the order of Mirza Taqi Khan Amir Kabir, the first chancellor of Nasser ed-Din Shah and is therefore called Bazaar e Amir. *Timcheh ye Amineh Aqdas
It was built in the name of Amineh Aqdas, one of Nasser ed-Din Shah's wives. The Timcheh is located beyond the Chahar-Suq e Bozorg and has a large barrel vault decorated with tiles.
*Timcheh ye Sadr e A'zam
It was built at the order of Mirza Ali Khan e Atabak e A'zam (Amin os-Soltan), the last chancellor (Sadr e A'zam) of Nasser ed-Din Shah's reign. It has a large barrel vault and a two-storey gallery of 'hojreh's.
*Timcheh ye Ketab Forush ha (Book-Sellers Market)
This is a 19th century building with a large barrel vault and architectural ornaments.
* Bazaar e Bein ol-Haramein
This bazaar was built during Mohammad Shah Qajar's reign . Situated between the Imam Khomeini Mosque (Formerly Shah Mosque) and the Jame' Mosque, it is called Bein ol-Haramein (Between the Two Sanctuaries). It is largely occupied by paper and stationery dealers. The famous Malek Library (endowed by Haj Hossein Aqa Malek), which was once located in this bazaar, has been relocated to the south wing of the Foreign Ministry building.
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192. An old 'Sagha Khane', a public water fountain and votive candle niche along 'Beynol-Harameyn' arcade between 'Soltani' and Jaame' mosques. Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2002.
193. Ornamental brick-work on the ceiling of a shopping arcade adjacent to 'Haajebod-Dolle' arcade. 200 I . . irA' .<lJJ.iI~b~--'~~""""'<s~I$;.r.Jwl:.e:':;;
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194. 'Chahaar Soogh' one of the oldest structures in the Grand Bazaar, in intersection of four passageways. Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2003.
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195. The ceiling of 'Haajeb-od-Dolle' arcade, • decorated with elaborate tiling. Tehran's Grand Bazzar. 200 I . ~ts: ~~y U:!y~j ~ 0:j..o <LlJ~1 ~~ .~ ~
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1 97. 'Mallek' arcade with a vault decorated. with elaborate brick-work and tiling. Tehran's Grand Bazaar. 2001 . . <SJIS..,...:.1S J <SJIS.r.-i u~.J" J.r.~ Jll.~ &. ~
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198. Masjed Jaame's Shabestaan, a hall for. nocturnal prayers, with a brick vault. 2003 . .J..r.~ Jll. L ,).*i ,sJY. )~L t-"4- __ ,:,~
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• 196. 'Haajeb-ed-Dolle' arcade with beautiful ornamental tiling in Oajar style and the chambers on the upper ftoor. One of the most beautiful arcades in the bazaar. 2002. '''''''''' J <SJ~li ~~ '-! <SJIS..,...:.1S ~ .uJ .1l1 ~~ ~
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202. 'Mehdiye' arcade with a large barrel vault in Tehran's Grnad Bazaar built during the Qajar period. 2001 . . ,\"" •. ,:,1"":; .s~y. )jI.~~" ~4-u ~~J" ~~i jI '<.r.""'<> .s~y. ......... ~ "e ..... ~
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204. Dome and minarets and part of decorative tiling in 'Soltani' Mosque. Tehran 's Grand Bazaar.200 I . . ""lhL.. _ tS)S..,.t1S .:.~':':;.:,I ~.J L..c.....,oil!: ,~
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, 203. Wind-Towers and the brick-work on the roof of 'Masjed Jaame' mosque. Tehran's Grand Bazaar.2003. "IA-' -S~j; )j4 .e:--b. _ ~4.:..4 tS.?'l ~~.J L.~o4
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• 205. Old structures on the roof of Tehran's Grand bazaar. 200 1. ."IA-' -S~j; )j~ ~4~ ' U""O,U tSL.<G..4?
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207. Golestan Palace. Oil Painting by: Mohammad Ghaffari ( Kammal-ol-Molk) 1885. .(.sl..lIJW:) (Sju.o .l.=-oYI'U'.Jj .s.j~G ·u~ Uj~
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208. Golestan Building. Drawing adopted from "Le Perse" by: Mme. Jane Dieu Lafoy. 1887.
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The Golestan Palace Complex
The Kakh e Golestan (Golestan Palace) has witnessed many historical events during the last two centuries and holds many unspoken secrets. Once it was the gem of the historical Arg of Tehran and is now a memorial to the old glory of the royal citadel.
The limits of the Arg were the present-day Imam Khomeini Square (Tupkhaneh) and Avenue on the north, 15th of Khordad (Buzarjomehri) Avenue on the south, Nasser Khosrow (Nasserieh) Avenue on the east and Khayyam (Jalil Abad) Avenue on the west.
The history of the Arg dates back to the Safavid period when Shah Tahmasb built Tehran's first wall and fortifications. Within the city walls and north of the Bazaar, roughly on the site presently occupied by the Golestan Palace, there was a large royal Chahar-Bagh (quadripartite garden). It followed the traditional plan of a Persian garden with groves of plane trees and four walks in the shape of a cross converging on a pavilion. This was enlarged in the reign of Shah Abbas I.
The powerful empire of the Safavids came to an abrupt end in the early 18th Century AD when an army of Afghans, led by a chieftain called Mahmud, defeated the Shah's army and invaded Iran. It was the Afghan invaders who first enclosed the gardens and the surrounding area with a moat and a defensive wall to protect their garrison from the populace. Later, Karim Khan Zand (reign - 1749-1779) constructed a proper citadel with elaborate fortifications and watchtowers and built barracks, palaces and gardens inside it. He hoped to make Tehran his capital and the Arg his seat of government but he changed his plans and made Shiraz the capital instead.
In 1795 Aqa Mohammad Khan, the first Oajar Shah, moved his court and the seat of government to Tehran within the protective walls of the Arg. About one-third of the space of the Arg was allocated to the Dar ol-Hokumeh (Seat of Government) containing the government bureaus and the Shah's residence. In the early Oajar period the chancellor and all the ministers worked within the Arg. Also, in the reign of Fath Ali Shah, after an angry mob murdered the Russian ambassador Griboyedov even the Russian embassy was moved into the Arg.
Like other traditional Iranian residences, the Golestan Palace complex consisted of two main sections, namely the Andaruni (inner private quarters) and the Biruni (outer quarters). The Biruni was the Dar ol-Hokumeh or Divan Khaneh (Seat of Government or House of Bureaus) which consisted of two separate courtyards with the buildings surrounding them. The southernmost of the two was the Hayat e Takht e Marmar (Marble Throne Courtyard). Here and in the Talar e Takht e Marmar (Marble Throne Hall) coronations, public audiences and other ceremonies were held. Except for the Eyvan e Takht e Marmar (Marble Throne Veranda) on the north side of this courtyard there is no trace left of the other sections of the Dar ol-Hokumeh . These were demolished in the Pahlavi period.
210. The ' Ceremonial Hall' of Golestan Palace. Photo courtesy '/\us Persian Wunder Welt" try: Pierre Loti, 1992. ·t \"~ , ';;.,J~ 'uiy-i ,~~~jJ-' ·u~t\S t)l....J'I'G
21 1 . A corner of the 'Ivory Hall' Photo courtesy "Du Khorassan au pays des Bqakhtiaris" by: Henry Rere d'Ailemagne. 1910. ·t" \. ,~Wi~".J(Syt..'(S.J~GuL...i'?jl.(~.J'I'G)(Si<..!.j:
212. Nasser-ed-Dinn Shah on the 'Peacock Throne' 11880). Photo courtesy "Sevrugin and the Persian Image" by: Fredrick N. Bohler. 1991. 'ui~i y-... L..o:; ... u.f. ... .J.,..- . ..,.. ...... u, ~ .... L...!. 0--=JJi-"",,~
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213. The Wind Tower' Building, 'Baad Gir' building 11880). Photo courtesy "Sevrugin and the Persian Image" by: Fredrick N. Bohler, printed 1999. ·t \'" ,,,LoY. ~.J~'" . ~,J":;,J (S.J.Ji~':' 'uiy-i Y-,Ji....:;,J u,!.,J.J.J-< ,~~4 ':'.Jl=
To the east of the Dar ol-Hokumeh a large, square-shaped garden called the Bagh e Golestan (Garden of Flowerbeds) was the core of the Andaruni (inner quarters) where the Shah held his private meetings, evening receptions and entertainment sessions with his courtiers. This huge quadrangle was surrounded by halls, buildings and 'Eyvan's (verandas). In the reign of Fath Ali Shah the Golestan Garden was divided into two sections - northern and southern - by a long, two-sided building called Emarat e Khoruji (Exit Building). Afterwards, this was pulled down at the order of Nasser ed-Din Shah and the two sections of the garden were reunited taking the current form. There used to be a Talar e Golestan (Golestan Hall) in the Emarat e Khoruji. Today the name Golestan is used for the whole palace complex.
North of the Golestan Garden was the Haramsara (Harem or Seraglio) which consisted of a large courtyard with the Shah's bedchamber in the middle and his wives' chambers all around. This section, too, was demolished in the Pahlavi period to make way for the present building of the Ministry of Economy and Finance.
In 1852, the fifth year of Nasser ed-Din Shah's reign, the royal Golestan Garden was extended eastwards and new buildings were added. In fact, most of the existing buildings in the complex were either built or renovated and redecorated in the long reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah (1848 -1896).
21 4. View of the Marble Throne Veranda, '!wane Takhte Marmar and its pool. 2002 .
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21 7. Exterior View and entrance to the 'Mirror Hall, situated in the north of Golestan Palace. 200 I .
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218. Courtyard and veranda of the Marble Throne. 200 I . . I r A' .rr .:..;.:; uly-Ij.b~
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.219. Part of the entrance to Golestan Palace. 2006 .
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220. Stairway to the Main Hall of Golestan • palace. 2003 .
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221 . Three-panel sash window and stained glass panes in the 'Diamond Hall'. 2001. <sU ~ Ie ,-",WI J ~t.; J.JJ-'" <r")
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223. The 'Mirror Hall' in Golestan palace. Oi l Painting by: Mohammad Ghaffa r i IKamma l-o l-Mo lk) 1895. '':'<'''J.s.;J~t.; ·,,~tlS ,~lJ~t.; / J'r'r.(~IJW;)<SJ~~YI
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225. The Grand Reception Hall in Golestan Palace. 2002.
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222. The Reception Hall adjacent to the Ivory Hall in Golestan palace. 2002 . . ,,~ tIS [~J~t.; J.J4--- ..r-I~:"'.:.JL..
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224. The 'Mirror Hall', Golestan Palace. 2002.
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226. Ornamental tiling on the ceiling of 'Karim Khan Veranda'. 2001. .';'I.O.1'=}> ,,1..0:1 ........ <SJIS ~IS ) .;......:;
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227. A view of Karim Khan Veranda. 2001 .
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228. Former pool area 'HOWl Khane' of the 'Ivory Hall', now housing an exhibition of Oajar period foreign paintings. 200 I . . \r'" .~4>li ~.) ... ~ c.r.~~ csu.~li; .j ..... . c::~ ~ ~G :""L;....;,,p-
229. Partiallilevv of 'Shams-d-Ernareh' building. 200 I . . IrA· .• ) _ • ..JI...,......:...:.Ji...<c(SLu)~
230. 'Shams-ol-Emareh' Towers as viewed from inside the courtyard of Golestan Palace. 200 I .
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231 . One of the halls in 'Shams-ol-Emareh'. 2002. • . "A' .• J L...JI...,......:. (SlAJ ')'C jI';;";
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239. A sample of the decorations in the 'Green Palace". Sad Abaad Complex. 2001 .
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241 . One of the halls of the 'White Palace' in Sad Abaad. 2001 . . IrA' .(.::.l. ~jY'tlS) ~tlS <SL..~~l:;)~ ,041 .......
240. The Reception Hall on the basement floor of the 'Green palace', Sad-Abaad. 2001.
242. Mirror-work on the ceiling of the 'Green Palace' in ' Sad-Abaad'.200 1. . I r A' .~ ~l:; .......... <S~IS ~1 • .:"...... tIS ,041 .......
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245. The 'Mirror Hall' in the 'Green Palace'. Sad-Abbad Palace. 200 I .
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246. The interior view of the 'White Palace' in Sad Abaad. 2001.
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247. A sample of the decorations in the 'Green Palace". Sad Abaad Complex. 2001 .
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248. The 'White Palace' housing the Nation Museum' in Sad Abaad. 200 I . . \ r A· .( ul.o ~j..,.. tlS)~ tIS ~'I't ,04T ........
After the Islamic Revolution the historic Sa'd Abad complex became a cultural centre and its doors were opened to the public. Many of the palaces and pavilions were converted into museums. These include the People's Museum, the Museum of Fine Arts, the Military Museum, the Ethnological Museum, the Green Palace Museum, the Behzad Museum, the Abkar Museu and the Mir Emad Museum of Writing and Calligraphy.
Apart from the museums there are other facilities in the Sa'd Abad complex open to the public. These include a bowling alley, tennis courts, swimming pools, a traditional coffee house and thousands of square metres of greenhouses and hothouses. At present parts of the Sa'd Abad complex also serves as a venue for holding conferences, painting exhibitions, courses in traditional arts and handicrafts and as a research centre for art, culture and historical studies.
249. 'Shams Palace' in SadAbbad, now serving as the Anthropology Museum. 2001. r.J..>-A :jJ-" ,~tLS: . .J~T~
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252. View of the entrance to 'Niavaran' Palace. 2001.
The Niavaran quarter of Shemiran district in northern Tehran used to be a large and important village. It attracted the attention of the Oajar Shahs who built the Sahebqaranieh Palace and the Ahmad Shah Pavilion in a large orchard east of Niavaran. In the Pahlavi period the grounds were extended and the Niavaran Palace and the Imperial School were added.
* Sahebqaranieh Palace
This is the oldest palace in the complex and originally dates back to the reign of Fath Ali Shah Oajar but the greater part of the present day structure was built in the reign of Naser ed-Din Shah. In fact the name Sahebqaranieh comes from the title given to that monarch - Sahebqaran - meaning Lord of Two Centuries. In the past the palace consisted of two sections - the Large Palace and the Small Palace. The former had a vast garden with several pools and contained the Imperial Hall of Mirrors and the latter consisted of several buildings.
Today, after many alterations and repairs, the palace comprises 15 buildings with the famous Jahan Nama Hall, the Emarat e Khabgah (Sleeping Ouarters Building) and the vast garden with several pools, which is still extant The main building is in two storeys - the upper floor contains the Hall of Mirrors which has elaborate mirror work and carved stucco. The lower floor contains the famous Howzkhaneh (Fountain Room) that was painted by Kamal ol-Molk. All the other rooms of the palace are decorated on the walls and ceilings with frescoes and have valuable paintings and other artefacts.
The bui lding has been used by famous Iranian directors several times for filming historical feature films and television series. Today the palace is open to the public as a museum.
*The Kushk
This is a small two-storey pavilion built in the reign of Ahmad Shah, the last Oajar monarch, as a summer residence for the Shah.
* Niavaran Palace
This palace, which was built north of the old Sahebqaranieh Palace after the grounds were extended, was constructed in the reign of Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi. At first it was meant to serve as an accommodation for the Shah's state guests on their visits to Iran but after it was completed it became the main residence of the Shah and his family except in the summer months.
253. Beautiful composition of columns on the • upper fioor of Ahmad Shah's Palace.2002 .
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255. Partial view of the ornamental brick-work in • Ahmad Shahi Summer Palace known as 'Kushk Ahmad Shahi', a two-storey palace situated in the north of 'Saheb Oaraniye' mansion. Late Oajar period. 2001. ~J u-"L!.~I ti,J. ",J &.:.fi <5~\S.r."1 -=-~.:,:; '" .... ..., .:,1";;"'-'; . ,r,,· . ~4-t:; .~.JJ ~I.JI 'olUl~L.o -=-~~ JL....!.
• 254. Exterior view and waterscape of Ahmad Shah's Palace.200 1 .
258. The 'Winter Reception Hall' of Saheb-Oaraniyeh Palace in the west wing of Howz-Khaneh. 2001 . . I\"A' .... ~,p. ~I~~t;..r.~ u.....i , .,..I~L.a tiS ... ~'-'""';;
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260. The Saheb-Oaraniyeh Palace. Picture + courtesy Sharaf Newspaper, no.19 . Drawing by: Abootorab Ghaffari, 1883.
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• 261. View of the entrance to 'Niavaran Palace'vvith the statue of Amir Kabir. A sample of architecture from Phalavi II period 200 I . ~,,;:; l; r~" /S~ ..>~i) .:,I">JI,U t LS /S""">" /SW
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262. A corner of the Main Hall of • 'Saheb Qaraniyeh' Palace with mirrored walls and ceiling, plasterwork and a three-panel sash window with stained-glass panes. 2001. (<Gl>......;,~) ""I~L., tLS ·.)....oI..>)'I:;) /SI ~J.
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263.1. Exterior view of the "Kakhe marmar" (The Marble Palace).1956
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263.2. One of the halls in 'Kakhe Marmar' (The Marble Palace). housing paintings by Master Taherzade Behzad & students of Kamal-ol-Molk school of painting. 2001. J A*. .... I.:,.>-"U, ... 1..:;...1 (51A."J;t L.r-.r- tl$ (5Lo~>,L:;.:,I ~
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The Kakh e Marmar (Marble Palace) and its gardens are located on the northwestern corner of the intersection of Vali Asr Avenue and Imam Khomeini Avenue. It was built between 1935 and 1938 at the order of Reza Shah Pahlavi. Its architecture is a blend of eastern and western styles and its exterior fa~ade is wholly covered with slabs of marble. The decorations of this building were created through the cooperation of great contemporary Iranian master artists in the fields of architecture, tile work, inlaid work and traditional ornamental designs .
The Marmar Palace was the main city residence of the Pahlavi Shahs until the 1 960s. From 1977 to 1981 it was a museum. Now it serves as the venue for the meetings of the Supreme Judicial Council and also of the State Expediency Council.
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264. Ornamentations of the vaulted 'Reception .. Hall' of The Marble Palace by Master Mahmoud Ghomi and Master Jaffar Khan e Kashi 1937.2001. ~ ... ~ ... ti.....1 yl jOjO tlS.).=1 (51..>-'"..>-'" ~ft. u~':':;"';""';
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267. Entrance to 'Saltanat Abad' palace. 1890. Photograph from the: Golestan Palace Albums .
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The construction of the palace and gardens of Saltanat Abad w as started in 1859 at the order of Nasser ed-Din Shah Oajar. The location was an open plain to the east of the village of Rostam Abad in the Shemiran district north of Tehran. Unlike the Sahebqaranieh palace, which is hemmed in by the mountains on the north and has a limited view on that side, the location of Saltanat Abad afforded great views of the landscape, houses and orchards of the Shemiran district all around.
The main Kakh e Saltanat Abad (Saltanat Abad Palace), also called the Kakh e Saltanati (Imperial Palace), is a large two-storey building with a vast Howzkhaneh (fountain room) in the middle. The fountain room is surrounded by numerous rooms, corridors and staircases. The ceiling of the fountain room and the walls of the rooms and corridors are decorated with beautiful carved stucco work of the Oajar period. The iron gable roof has a golden ball at its pinnacle as a symbol of the Imperial Palace. The architecture of this building and its stucco decorations constitute an important example of Oajar period art.
Within a short distance of the Imperial Palace there is another beautiful building that has two storeys with a four storey tower. This palace too has a beautiful Howzkhaneh (fountain room) on the lower floor and a splendid hall with fine seven-colour glazed tile work. These tiles have tableaux and designs depicting various aspects of life in the time of Nasser ed-Din Shah Oajar in a very realistic style.
This palace's tower, which was known as Borj e Homayuni (Royal Tower), is decorated with frescoes, stalactite stucco work and carved stucco patterns. The top storey has a veranda that functioned as a vantage point for viewing the scenery all around. The exterior fa<;:ade of the four storey tower is decorated with seven-colour glazed tiles depicting soldiers of Nasser edDin Shah's army.
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The Negarestan Gardens were built outside tehrans old city walls between the years 181 3 and 181 5 in the reign of Fath Ali Shah Qajar. They contained a royal palace and state bureaux. The master architects were Ostad Abdollah Khan and Ostad Aqa Jani of Isfahan .
The Howzkhaneh (fountain pavilion) was constructed in the old Negarestan Gardens in the reigns of Fath Ali Shah and his grandson and successor Mohammad Shah. At first it was a cruciform building with four alcoves built in the style of the Zand period with no doors or windows opening outwards toward the garden . The dome above the building rested on four columns decorated with floral designs of 1 6 vines growing out of flowerpots . It was in this building that Qa'em Maqam Farahani. Fath Ali Shah's chancellor was strangled at the order of Mohammad Shah.
Today these teaching workshops have been transferred to the Cultural Heritage Organisation's headquarters. The Howzkhaneh building now houses the Museum of National Arts with a fine collection of classic masterpieces of the same arts that were taught here.
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The Oasr e Eshrat Abad (Eshrat Abad Palace) was built in the reign of Nasser ed-Din Shah in a large orchard called Eshrat Abad to the northeast of the Tehran wall - mid-way between the Negarestan Garden and the Oasr e Oajar (Oajar Palace). The whole property is now a military base. The palace is in fact a four-storey belvedere tower popularly called Kolah e Farangi (European Hat) with harmonious facades and an iron gable roof above the top floor. On the third floor there is an alcove decorated with stalactite carved stucco and mirror work. The Kolah e Farangi of Eshrat Abad is an interesting example of the architecture of the Oajar period.
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274. The four-storey belvedere tower of 'Eshrat Abad', referred to as 'Kollah e Farangi' IEuropean Hat) with exterior tiling, and mirrored vaulted halls. Photo courtesy "Iran's national Heritage Organization Archives." ~ t>-'Y' o~T ~~."....,.. <Lh ~4-i'" (Yo
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275. 'Baghe Ferdows' as viewed from the south, 1878. Photo by: Mirza Ahmmad courtesy' The M & People' magazine vol. 5 archives. 2006 . . "-""'llj~ :U"lli ,(.J IrV) ",~.:........ jlU"J.J""'; tL
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The Bagh e Ferdows (Garden of Paradise) is an orchard in the Tajrish quarter of the Shemiran district in north Tehran with an area of 20000 square metres. The building in this orchard
. . ~ . was bUilt In the late 19 century for Mo'ayyer ol-Mamalek - one of the courtiers of Nasser ed-Din Shah Qajar. It has an area of 1000 square metres and the central part is in two storeys but the eastern and western wings have three storeys. The central part consists of two halls - one above the other. The lower hall has a ceiling decorated with stalactite carved stucco. The walls and the southern entrance portal are also covered with elaborate stucco decorations. The doors and windows are made of wood and coloured glass. The building has an iron gable roof. At present the building and garden are owned by the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance and used as the location for film-making courses. at present, the Bagh-e Ferdows edifice houses the Museum of Iranian Cinema.
276. Partial view of the unique plasterwork on the ceiling of 'Oandil Hall' in 'Baghe Ferdows' mansion. 2001 .
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279. Part of the highly elaborate plaster-moldings on the fa<;ade. 2001. . ,r A' .<sjL. "l:;.~ "e ";',J.>:; <sW <S& JlS>.! "'~':':; jI ~
280. 'Baghe Ferdows' Terrace with beautiful sash windows with stained glass, plaster-work and inlaid. 2001 .
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During the reign of Reza Shah the Maydan-e Mashq was transformed into a public park which became known as the Bagh-e Melli [National Garden]. Hence, its southern portico was called Sar-dar-e [Portico of the] Bagh-e Melli. This park remained in public use for five years; however, with the capital's growing need for a central administrative area and the proximity of the Maydan-e Mashq to the royal citadel, this vast perimeter was allocated to the construction of a multitude of governmental buildings. Its portico, however, retained its historic name and this beautiful and imposing structure today symbolizes the historic center of Tehran .
This majestic gate was erected in 1920 for the passage of parading troops. It was flanked by two control posts and topped by a watch room where the naqareh was also played. This portico replaced an older one located at the southeastern corner of the Maydan-e Mashq. This structure is a symbolic representation ofTehran's twelve gates in Qajar times. The Qajar gates ofTehran were not limited to the city's entry points. Some, such as those on Toopkhaneh Square or Arg Square, stood at the junction of important squares and avenues and bore a symbolic quality. Other examples include the gates on Nasseriyeh, Cheraq-e Gaz, Lalezar, 'Ala '-od-Dowleh, Bagh-e Shah and Darvaze-ye Dowlat avenues, which still existed in Tehran when the Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli was being built.
The Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli is similar in execution to the Naqarekhaneh portico on the southern side of Arg Square, the old Darvaze-ye Dowlat, at the beginning of Bab-e Homayun Avenue, and even the Almasiyeh PortiCO, at the northern entrance to the royal palaces, and it may perhaps be considered an evolved form of those famous, now disappeared, gates. The onion dome of the Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli 's kolah farangi, which evokes those of Russian architecture, together with its handsome iron portals, distinguish the portico of the Maydan-e Mashq from the other gates ofTehran. Varied brick-work and appended round columns with stone capitals also characterize the design of this building. The scenes represented on its surfaces well express the military function of the Maydan-e Mashq. Tile panels on its frontispiece depict troops and artillery pieces, while officers wearing Cossack uniforms are represented on its other surfaces. Poems praising the builder of the edifice appear on its facade in white nasta'liq script on indigo background. The massive iron gate of this building (a large central portal flanked by a pair of smaller ones) constitutes its most attractive part. Displaying classic brass patterns on its black iron background, this gate undoubtedly offers one of the most beautiful sights in Tehran .
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This portico was built by Master Mohammad-'Ali Kermani, whose name appears in bold characters on its frontispiece. Another inscription here, written in brass letters on black iron background, reads: 'This work was crafted in the Ooorkhaneh [Armory] of Tehran."
The Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli has undergone repeated alterations. The first change involved the removal of the control posts, owing to the construction of the Post Office building on its east and the Anglo-Iranian Oil Company building on its west A subsequent alteration took place when the pavement of the avenue was raised, burying the bases of the gate. In recent years the Iranian Cultural Heritage Organization has had automobile traffic through the gate closed, the pavement under it lowered to its original level, water drainage channels created around the building, and the area under and around the gate repaved with cobblestones. Today passersby reaching the Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli remain awestruck at the sight of this relic of a not so remote past An open air art museum in its own right, the Sar-dar-e Bagh-e Melli offers its beauty to anyone strolling through the historic center ofTehran .
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287. The interior view of a house in Tehran from Mohammad Shah Qajar Period . Drawing adopted from "Voyage en Perse" by: Eugene- Fland in et Pascal Coste, 1840-41 .
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In the first decades of the Oajar period when Tehran was the capital of Iran the architecture of its houses followed the traditional Iranian style. Western architecture had not yet penetrated the country.
Traditional Iranian architecture took shape under the paramount influence of geographic factors and climatic conditions. The most important characteristic of this style of architecture is the inward looking plan . The houses were mostly in one storey w ith their backs to narrow and w inding streets. There were no windows looking toward the street and all the light came from the courtyards w ithin. This architecture created some of the most attractive and pleasant inte rior and ext er io r spaces and became mo re soph ist ica ted ove r time.
The traditional structure of the city's architecture began to change radica lly w ith the social and cultural developments that took shape from the Mid-Oajar period onwards . This was directly associated w ith the vast increase of contact with European cultures that had started to take place. From then on the architecture of Tehran was transformed and followed the trends of western architecture. The same tendency continues today.
Here we w ill briefly introduce some of the most interesting old mansions of Tehran .
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The Khaneh ye Emam e Jom'eh (House of the Friday Imam) belonged to one of the leaders of Tehran's Friday prayers. Its location is at 37, Emam e Jom'eh Street, Nasser Khosrow Avenue in the heart of Tehran. Judging by its architecture and decorations the construction can be attributed to the middle years of Nasser ed-Din Shah Qajar's reign It is a two-storey house w ith a total area of 789 square metres and a built area of 320 square metres On each floor. The architecture of the building is in traditional Iranian style blended proportionately and harmoniously with elements of European architecture. The Emam e Jom'eh house is particularly important because of its splendid interior decorations. The decorative features of the building include carved stone, carved stucco work, frescoes, mirror work, decorative brick work, wooden fretwork and sash windows.
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The historic mansion of Oavam od-Oowleh is on Mirza Mahmud e Vazir Street in the Sarcheshmeh neighbourhood of the old Udlajan quarter of Tehran. The house was built in 1837 for Mirza Mohammad Khan Oavam -od-Oowleh. It is a three-storey building. set between two vast courts to its north and south. and has a basement. This building has grand halls decorated with elaborate ornamental patterns blending Iranian and European styles. The superior qualities of the decorations and the harmonious blending of the decorative elements have given the Oavam building a very unique identity.
The decorations of the building include stalacti te mirror work with beautiful geometric patterns. frescoes by Lotf Ali Khan Suratgar. carved stucco work on the wa lls and cei lings. sash windows w ith fretwork. latticed w indows in the basement and decorative brickwork on the basement ceiling. One of the unique features found in this house is a set of colour photogravure portraits of 19th Century women set in the mirror frames. These are among the worlds oldest colou r photographic pictures and were engraved in the 19th century .
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294. Part of magnificent ornamentations in 'The Paintings Hall' of 'Khaneye Emam Jome'.2004.
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This mansion belonged to Hassan Pirnia - a famous Late-Qajar period statesman whose title was Moshir od-Oowleh. It is located at 423, Pirnia Street, Laleh Zar e Now Avenue between the intersections of that Avenue with Manuchehri Avenue and Jomhuri Avenue. The Moshir od-Oowleh House is a three-storey building - one storey being the basement. The ground floor is elevated 1,5 metres above ground level. The most important decoratiVe features of the building are carved stucco work and woodwork done in a very simple and minimalist style. The building is now owned by the Tehran University of Medical Sciences and has been dedicated to that university's Centre for Historical Medicine Studies .
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The house that belonged to the late Professor Adl is located at 4-6, Sokhanvar Street. Vali Asr Avenue opposite the Marmar Palace. Built in a 2700 square metre plot of land, the area of the building is 1000 metres. It is a single-story building with a basement and annexes. The building was probably designed and built by the Russian architect Leon Markov. The date of its completion is 1932. This mansion has some splendid carved stucco work.
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299. A partial view of the building and surroundings of The Society for the Appreciation of Cultural Works and Dignitaries' situated in Amiriye street. 200 1 .
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In the autumn of 1 922 a society was founded for the purpose of promoting interest and increasing public awareness of Iran' historical, cultural and art treasures and for preserving Iran's fine arts and handicrafts. This was at first called the National Treasures Society and today it is ca lled the Cultural Treasures and Personages Society. The society is a centre for research and sometimes it holds award giving ceremonies in which Iran's great cultural personages, scholars, artists and thinkers are honoured and glorified.
The society is based in a hundred year old building that once belonged to Hossein Pasha Khan, w hose title was Amir Bahador e Jang, the court minister of Mozaffar ed-Din Shah Qajar. The building is ca lled Hosseinieh ye Amir Bahador (Amir Bahador's Hosseinieh or mourning arena) . The area of the building is 3000 square metres and it has a large hall wi th mirror work on the ground floor and another large hall on the upper floor that is used as an auditorium. The building is located at Pol e Amir Bahador (Amir Bahador's Bridge) in Amirieh (the southern part of Vali Asr Avenue) .
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300. Main Hall of The Society for the Appreciation of Cultural Works and Dignitaries' decorated with exquisite mirrors charaaeristic of Qajar period. 200 1 .
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The Mandala House, also known as Kushk (Pavilion) is situated in the old Laleh Zar neighbourhood of the Dowlat quarter in the heart of Tehran. One side of the house is on Ferdowsi Avenue. The Kushk was built in a period when Iranian architecture was in transition and its architecture is a blend of traditional Iranian and European styles. Apart from its unique architecture and proportions, the building is remarkable for its many decorative features.
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This mansion is located in the Sangelaj quarter of Tehran on Gozar e Mostowfi (Mostowfi Street), Buzarjomehri Avenue near Galubandak Crossroads. It was built in 1892 and its architecture and decorations follow a European style in vogue at the time - very different from traditional Iranian architecture. The building is in two storeys. The ground floor comprises a Howzkhaneh (fountain room), storerooms and servants' quarters. The first floor has two entrances and has reception halls and sleeping quarters .
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305. Part of the courtyard and exterior view of 'Oavam ol-Saltaneh' mansion, today housing the Museum of Glassware, finely decorated with intricate Sa~uk brick-work. A blend of European style and traditional Iranian elements of Oajar period located on '30th of Tir' street. 2002. ~j.J-") 4L.J1 j'lji u.)'--" ~j~ (SL.;j 4-""",, jI ~ ~'..,i~..s,.......~(Su.(S.)ts:.r.--l~';':,.(~ys~ ,.)4-[> ~.)jJ ?ljl.)J ~I>.!I ~ >""~ j ",,'< .. u l j,J,) (S.)t......
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This unique set of buildings was built about 85 years ago as a residence and reception hall for Ahmad Oavam (Oavam os-Saltaneh) - the famous statesman of the Late Oajar and Pahlavi periods. The buildings were built in an orchard with an area of 7000 square metres - today on 30 Tir Street (Oavam os-Saltaneh Street) in the heart ofTehran.
The complexes comprises two buildings - Biruni (outer quarters) and Andaruni (inner quarters) - which have almost identical plans and an area of 1000 square metres each. The buildings are octagonal and the first floor is 1.5 metres above ground level. The Biruni is now home of the Glassware and Ceramic Museum of Iran. The decorations of this building include brick work in the SeUuk style, embossed glazed tile panels with pictures of the legends of the Shahnameh, carved stucco work, tile work, mirror work and marquetry - all very beautiful and of a superlative quality.
The mansion was the residence of Oavam os-Saltaneh until about 1 951 . After he left Iran the government of Egypt bought the whole complex from his son and established the Egyptian Embassy, which remained in this mansion for 13 years. When relations with Egypt deteriorated the Bank e Bazargani (Bank of Trade) bought the mansion from the Egyptian Embassy. In 1976 the Farah Pahlavi Foundation bought the mansion in order to establish a museum. It was restored and redecorated in 1977-78. The conversion of the main outer building to a museum was one of the master works of Hans Hollein - the Austrian architect. Today the Glassware and Ceramic Museum of Iran is considered one of the finest museums in the world - much sought out by foreign tourists and guests.
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The A'iam-os-Saitaneh House is located in Tehran's Hafez avenue, next to the Stock Exchange building. It was built during the reign of Mozaffar-ed-Din Shah and the property came into possession of the late Kazem Banna Nezam, a merchant from Qazvin known as A'iam-os-Saitaneh, some 95 years ago.
The construction of this edifice dates back to 1900. It was last owned by A'lamos-Saltaneh's daughter, Mrs. Senator Forud .
The architectural style of the building combines Iranian and Western features. Symmetry has been respected thoroughly in the eastern and southern facades and partially in the northern facade, while the western facade is totally asymmetrical and lacks unity with the other three.
The decoration of the building consists mainly of brick patterns adorning its facade (framing the doors and windows). Another decorative element involved is carved stucco, which appears in some rooms (e.g. the present library), on their ceilings and as frames on their wal ls .
Yet another decorative element consists of under-glaze painted tile panels, used mostly to adorn the building's plinths. The exterior plinths bear individual tiles representing characters from the Shahnameh.
Geometric patterns made of cut pieces of wood also adorn the cei lings of the house.
This building presently houses the animal husbandry and cattle-breeding education center of the Agricultural Jihad Ministry .
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This house is located at the end of Noorizadeh Street. on Pamenar Avenue.
Zain-ol-'Abedin-Khan Hakim, known as Mo'tamen-ol-Atebba', who commissioned the construction of this house, was a physician active under Nasser-ed-Din Shah. He was an erudite man and one of the first physicians to have graduated from the Dar-olFonun. As many aristocratic mansions, the Mo'tamen-ol-Atebba' house was inhabited by more than one family and other additions and auxiliary elements constituted an ensemble whose center of gravity was the house itself. No trace of these additions and auxiliary elements remains today.
The main particularity of this house is the great height of its northern side, which is further emphasized by tall columns in front of its Ivan (terrace). The architectural style of this house combines elements of traditional Izranian architecture and decoration with some European symbols.
The eastern and western sides of the house fully conform to the proportions and divisions of Iranian houses, whereas its northern side, which constitutes its main part, involves a columnar Ivan with European capitals, introducing a new, foreign, expression in Iranian architecture.
The decoration of the house includes carved stucco on its northern side capitals and frontispiece, brick-work patterns on its basement ceiling, and carved stucco fireplaces and walls as well as wooden doors in its basement.
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The house of Sadeq Hedayat, located Sa'di avenue, Shahid Taqavi Street. next to Amir A'iam Hospital, presently houses the Sadeqiyeh Day Nursery. This was the house of the famous writer, Sadeq Hedayat. He was born in 1 281 AS (1902) in Tehran, where he spent the major part of his life. His father, E'tezad-olMolk, was a prominent figure during the Oajar period, which suggests that this house was probably built by his commission. The decoration and magnitude of the edifice bespeaks the wealth of its owners and bears clues to its construction date, i.e. the late Oajar period. Sadeq Hedayat spent a long period of his lifetime in this house, where he probably wrote a large number of his novels, plays, research works, travel accounts, folkloric collections and translations. The main entrance of the building is located on its southern side. Past this entrance, one meter or so below street level lies the smaller (8 by 8 meters) biruni courtyard of the house. Its handsome flower beds and landscaping have created a pleasant atmosphere which the ca ller finds quite striking. This courtyard is surrounded by the main bui lding, wh ich has a single floor and a basement. The main areas of the first floor are accessed via two symmetrical flights of six stairs on the eastern and western sides of the courtyard. The first floor of the building is symmetrically laid out on the eastern and western sides of the courtyard and is accessed via two symmetrical stairways flanking the southern courtyard. A small area gives access to the other parts of the building. A 3 by 5 meter room on its southern side and a 6 by 4 meter room on its northern side are symmetrically repeated on the eastern and western sides of the courtyard. The main hall of the building, measuring 6 by 4 meters, is located at its center and a two-meter-deep Ivan in front of it assures a visual link between the beautiful hall and the vast northern courtyard. A corridor, located at the center of the building under the main hall, connects the northern and southern courtyards. A very handsome brick vault covers this corridor. The northern courtyard also has a charming atmosphere and its central pool is flanked by symmetrical flower beds, following the classical Iranian model. The water from an aqueduct that entered the courtyard from its northern side probably also provided the water needed inside the house. The general structure of the building consists of massive load-bearing brick walls and barrel vaults cover the different areas of the basement floor. The roof consists of wooden trusses lined with galvanized iron sheets. Wooden doors and windows are used throughout the building and are quite intact. Colored glazed relief tiles measuring 20 by 20 centimeters and bearing beautiful original patterns cover the plinths of the southern part of the building and all around the courtyard to a height of 120 centimeters. Some of these tiles depict painters clad in Oajar attires, attesting to the age and originality of the building.
The tile-work and wooden tessellations adorning the protruding edge of the roof are particularly attractive. Parquet of excellent wood and color covers the first floor.
The wooden doors and windows, which match the semi-circular vaults and handsome divisions of the building, constitute another of its decorative elements.
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"The Malek House on the northern side of the Bazaar e Beyn ol-Harameyn in the great Bazaar of Tehran. Once it housed the Malek Library and Museum but that has now been transferred to the so uthern building of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
"The Ehsani House: Baha' od-Oowleh Street. Pamenar Avenue, Amir Kabir Avenue "The Safavi House: Shahid Mostafa Khomeini (Cyrus) Avenue "The Nasr od-Oowleh House (Qajar period) : Mer'at Street. Shahid Mostafa Khomeini (Cyrus)
Avenue near Sarcheshmeh Crossroads " Khaneh ye Bazaar e Mesgarha (The Coppersmiths' Market House): Shahid Mostafa Khomeini
(Cyrus) Avenue "The Ab ol-Ghassem Tafsili House: Amir Kabir Avenue opposite Ekbatan Avenue "Th e House of Clara Abkar (famous Iranian miniaturist): Jomhuri Avenue "The House of Hossein Behzad (famous Iranian miniaturist): Behzad Avenue (Shahid Hassan
Nowfallah Avenue) "The old, Qajar period house at Amin Hozur Intersection "The Ala' od-Oowleh House: Ferdowsi Avenue "The House of Ab ol-Hassan Saba (famous Iranian violinist and composer): Zahir ol-Eslam
Street. It is now the Saba Museum.
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• 321. Farmaniyeh Garden and the southern front of the main residence of the Embassy of Italy in Tehran .
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326. View of the entrance and portico of 'Adrian Temple', Tehran's Zoroastrian ceremonial temple. Pahlavi I period. Mirza Koochek Khan street. 2001 . c.s~ ~j.J.J '01~ u~.)..) t-'""'I,.>-A cs)fi.>! ulS..... .ul:.;Jl ~ .),j~ J I.SJ,J.),J ($l.cU
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199 - p--
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::J o V\
Allemagne, Henry Rene d' : Du Khorassan au Pays des Bakhtiaris, 1910.
Benjamin, S. G. W: Persia and Persians, 1887.
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Brugsen, Heinrich: Reise der K. Preussischen.
Curzon, George N.: Persia and The Persian Question, 1892.
Dieulafoy, Jeanne: La Perse, 1 887 .
Dubeux, M. Louis: La perse, Paris, 1841.
Feuvrier, Dr.: Trois ans a la Cour de Perse, 1906.
Flandin, Eugene: Voyage en Perse, 1840-41 .
Graefe, Axel von: Iran das Neve Persien, 1937.
Ker Porter, sir Robert: Travels in Georgia, Persia, Armenia & Ancient Babylonia from 1817-1820, London, 1821.
Loti, Pierre: Aus Persiens Wunderwelt, 1922.
Mal com, Johan: History of Persian, 181 S.
Morgan. c.: Nasser-Eddin schah und Moderne Persien, 1889.
Morier James: A Journey Through Persia, Armenia and Asia Minor to Constantinople in The years 1 808-1 809, 1 81 2.
Morris, James: La Perse, 1969.
Pakravan. E: Tehran de Jadis, 1971 . Vieux teheran, 1962.
Piemontese, Angelo M.: Photograph Album of Italian Diplomatic Mission to Persia, ISummer 1862) Rome 1972.
Pierre, Fredee: Voyage En Armonie et en Perse, 1899.
Rosen, Friedrich: Persien in wort und Bild, 1926,
Shuster, Morgan The Strangling of Persia, 1912.
Soltikoff, Prince Alexis ' Voyage en Perse, 1851.
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202 - ,.-
.." Yassavoli Publication archives
J: 4-5-6-7-8- 1 0- 11-69-70-7 1-72-73-74-75-76-77-78-79-80-82-83-84-85-86-87-88-89-90-9 1-92-93-94-95-96-97-98-99- 100- 10 1-102- 103- 104- 105- 1 06- 1 07-1 08- 1 09- 11 0- 111- 112-11 3- 114-11 6- 11 7- 11 8- 11 9- 120- 12 1-136- 139- 140- 14 1-142- 144- 148- 149- 15 1-152- 153-155- 156- 157- 158- 159- 160- 16 1-162- 163- 164- 165- 166- 168- 169- 172- 173- 177- 182- 183-o 184- 186-206-207-208-209-2 1 0-2 11-2 12-2 13-260-265-267-272-273-27 4-275-276-282-
+oJ 285-287-288 o J: a.. 'to-o
(Mirza Ahmad Sani -d Saltaneh, Luigi Montabon, A. Sevrugin, Ali Khadem, Assadollah Parvin, Mahmood Pakzad, Iran's National Heritage organization's Archive, golestan Palace Albums
. )
QJ Ali Matin
U 10.
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14-16-22-2 4-29-3 4-35-36-37-40-42-43-44-45-47-48-5 1- 52- 55- 56- 57- 58- 59- 62- 65-66- 68- 122- 124-1 25- 128-1 33-1 34-147- 167- 170- 174- 175- 180- 18 1-185- 187- 188- 189- 190-19 1-192- 193- 194- 196- 199-200-20 1-202-203-204-2 05-2 19-226-229-230-23 5(B)-252-253-255-26 1-27 1-278-279-280-29 1-292-293-294-295-296-30 1-303-306-3 12-3 16-3 17-3 19-320-322-324-325 -326 -327-328-329 -330
~ Sa'id M,Aznaveh
~ 1-2-30-4 1-46-8 1-129- 143-2 14-2 15-2 18-220-22 1-222-223-22 4-22 5-228-23 1-2 32-234-235 (A, C. D, E, F)-2 37-238-2 4 1-24 3-2 44-2 46-2 48-25 1-25 4-2 56-2 57-258-259-269-270 307-308-309-3 14-3 15
H ,Amir Yeganeh .s 9-26-3 1-39-50-60-6 1-63-64- 11 5- 130- 13 1-132- 135- 137- 146- 17 1-176- 195- 198-233-277-o 28 1-286-289-290-297-298-302-304-305-3 10-3 11-313-323
J: a..
Lorca: Asghar Daneshpoor, Nader Samavati, Mass'ud Ma'sumi
3- 12-21-38-49- 123- 126- 150-240-262-263-264-268-283-284-321
Afshin Bakhtiar
23-33-127- 178-179-216-217-236-239-242-245-247
VI L:
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Javad Najaf Alizadeh
249-250-299-300
Mehrdad Daneshpour
13-53-266
Hamid-Reza Hosainzadeh
67-138- 197
Farhad Rafiee
54-145-3 18
Ebrahim Zafar Moradian
15- 18- 19
M.R.Baharnaz
17-20
Javad Seydabadi
27-277
Bahram Abedini
25 -28
Babak Foroutani
32
203 - y--
I TEHRAN: Past & Present A Glance at the features of Life, Art and Architecture
I
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Compiler and Executive Manager:
Hamid Reza Norouzi Talab
YASSAVOLI PLBLI(.\TIO\.S
Hamid Reza Norouzi-Talab was born in Tehran in 1958. He holds a B.A degree in Traditional Arts from The University of Arts and a Master's Degree in Art Research from Tehran University. From 1 980 to 1 981, he took art courses in E'cole National Superieur des Beaux-Arts in Paris.
He has actively been writing articles and compiling books in Arts since 1 982, and has chaired the editorial staff of the new series of the fiftyyear-old periodical" Art & People" (Honar-o-Mardom) and worked as editor-in-chief of " hands & Creativity" from 1 992-1999.
Since 1 991, he has been lecturing at universities and has worked as the Dean of the Faculty of Graphic Arts and Photography of the Faculty of Fine Arts in Tehran University since 2002.
Amongst his numerous publications are a book on Tehran and ''The Manifestation of Iranian Elegance ". He is presently working on a series of well-documented books on the city of Tehran to be published by Yassavoli Publication.
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