tables - springer978-1-137-56962-2/1.pdf · tables table 1 average retail prices of food,...
TRANSCRIPT
Ta
bl
es
Tab
le1
Ave
rage
reta
ilpr
ices
offo
od,1
861–
2010
(pri
ces
in20
10eu
ros,
food
inki
logr
ams
exce
ptw
here
othe
rwis
eno
ted)
Bre
adPa
sta
Ric
ePo
tato
esB
eef
Pork
Salu
mi
Egg
saM
ilkB
utte
rL
ard
Oliv
eoi
lbW
inec
Cof
fee
Suga
r
1861
–187
01.
782.
631.
930.
574.
275.
77..
.0.
291.
1011
.31
7.78
6.28
2.85
9.94
6.10
1871
–188
01.
812.
722.
070.
624.
566.
32..
.0.
301.
1111
.76
7.80
5.52
2.46
13.2
35.
4118
81–1
890
1.55
2.27
2.07
0.59
5.39
7.00
9.74
0.31
1.29
11.8
38.
055.
632.
4414
.13
6.26
1891
–190
01.
512.
072.
110.
505.
666.
3510
.17
0.33
1.13
11.4
87.
105.
552.
0817
.22
6.36
1901
–191
01.
421.
971.
930.
585.
767.
0511
.20
0.36
1.11
11.6
17.
035.
821.
8213
.36
5.87
1911
–192
01.
271.
831.
650.
688.
216.
0416
.07
0.52
1.25
13.4
88.
907.
332.
4015
.78
5.80
1921
–193
01.
662.
452.
150.
7210
.53
9.54
17.3
50.
531.
3116
.06
8.63
7.55
2.00
24.0
25.
6619
31–1
940
1.90
2.75
2.12
0.60
10.1
18.
7915
.62
0.43
1.07
12.9
37.
666.
241.
7229
.71
6.08
1941
–195
01.
502.
393.
250.
8812
.98
12.5
822
.24
0.70
1.11
20.3
012
.84
9.60
2.11
20.5
15.
9919
51–1
960
1.81
2.75
2.56
0.66
15.8
913
.48
20.8
60.
791.
1016
.63
6.66
8.03
1.69
28.2
23.
5919
61–1
970
1.57
2.32
2.28
0.74
16.8
315
.01
17.5
80.
371.
1014
.42
4.17
7.25
1.45
21.2
52.
2519
71–1
980
1.61
1.99
2.39
1.00
18.6
415
.10
18.4
70.
311.
2012
.82
3.57
7.00
1.42
20.5
61.
9719
81–1
990
2.02
1.88
2.42
0.72
16.3
711
.71
18.8
80.
241.
249.
472.
924.
961.
3615
.43
1.54
1991
–200
02.
381.
762.
410.
8014
.33
10.0
919
.05
0.20
1.33
8.62
...
5.16
1.87
12.8
41.
3620
01–2
010
2.65
1.44
2.28
0.92
14.5
79.
4417
.92
0.20
1.40
7.99
...
4.68
1.91
10.2
81.
08
a Pri
cepe
reg
g.bPr
ice
per
liter
ofol
ive
oil.
c Pri
cepe
rlit
erof
win
e.So
urce
:IST
AT
(Ita
lian
Nat
iona
lIns
titut
eof
Stat
istic
s),S
erie
stor
iche
150
anni
(Rom
e,20
11).
Tab
le2
Food
cons
umpt
ion
inpo
oran
dri
chIt
alia
nfa
mili
es,1
872–
1878
Pied
mon
tL
omba
rdy
Ven
eto
Em
ilia,
The
Mar
ches
,U
mbr
ia
Lig
uria
,Tus
cany
,R
ome
Abr
uzzi
,Mol
ise,
Ter
radi
Lav
oro,
a
Cam
pani
a
Bas
ilica
ta,C
alab
ria,
Apu
liaSi
cily
,Sa
rdin
ia
Pres
ence
offo
ods
asa
perc
enta
geam
ong
poor
fam
ilies
(mai
nly
peas
ants
)
Pole
nta
100
100
100
100b
73b
201
...
Cor
nbre
ad29
6462
100
244
Whe
atbr
ead
5217
2229
6839
5290
Ric
e12
3011
2..
.3
...
Past
a10
92
712
157
21C
hest
nuts
196
...
422
41
Puls
esan
dfr
uit
6955
7467
7279
100
100
Pota
toes
3815
710
2345
25..
.
Aco
rns
...
...
...
42
...
...
...
Bar
ley
22
4..
.3
226
2M
illet
23
...
...
...
...
1..
.
Rye
...
52
...
...
...
36
Bee
f17
24c
27c
618
510
c21
cM
utto
n8
134
18Po
rk2
115
19Po
ultr
y..
...
.5
4..
...
...
...
.
Frog
san
dsn
ails
22
...
...
...
...
3..
.
Fish
...
922
132
24
13Sa
lum
i4
818
45
96
2D
airy
prod
ucts
2550
2517
72
3..
.
Lig
htw
ine
3711
2733
129
55
Win
e33
2931
2753
4866
67B
eer
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Wat
er(b
yits
elf)
3149
3342
3539
2928
Liq
ueur
s2
813
67
45
...
Pres
ence
offo
ods
asa
perc
enta
geam
ong
rich
fam
ilies
(bou
rgeo
isan
dar
isto
crat
ic)
Pole
nta/
corn
brea
d19
1530
85
2.
..
..
.W
heat
brea
d10
010
010
010
010
010
010
010
0R
ice
1930
3610
54
5..
.
Past
a11
1013
620
6367
28C
hest
nuts
6..
...
...
.7
...
...
...
Puls
esan
dfr
uit
5324
3018
2232
9691
Pota
toes
62
...
27
44
...
Aco
rns
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Bar
ley
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Mill
et..
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
.
Rye
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Bee
f98
9791
9086
7997
d
Mut
ton
...
...
616
1831
90c
Pork
155
2516
59
9Po
ultr
y15
...
4518
2417
811
Frog
san
dsn
ails
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Fish
66
1110
1821
2948
Salu
mi
42
...
2..
.14
10..
.
Dai
rypr
oduc
ts17
3211
1818
4023
22L
ight
win
e..
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
.
Win
e10
010
010
010
010
010
010
010
0B
eer
...
54
...
...
...
...
...
Wat
er(b
yits
elf)
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
Liq
ueur
s..
.2
...
22
212
2
a Ter
radi
Lav
oro
was
anol
dad
min
istr
ativ
eun
itco
mpr
isin
gan
area
now
divi
ded
betw
een
Lat
ium
,Cam
pani
a,an
dM
olis
e.bA
ggre
gate
ofpo
lent
aan
dco
rnbr
ead.
c Agg
rega
teof
beef
,mut
ton,
and
pork
.dA
ggre
gate
ofbe
efan
dm
utto
n.So
urce
:S.S
omog
yi,“
Cen
toan
nidi
bila
ncif
amili
arii
nIt
alia
(185
7–19
56),
”in
Ann
ali
(Mila
n,19
59),
140
(dat
aba
sed
onE
.Ras
eri’s
inve
stig
atio
nfo
rth
eSo
ciet
àIt
alia
nadi
Ant
ropo
logi
ae
Etn
olog
ia).
Tab
le3
Ave
rage
annu
alpe
rca
pita
cons
umpt
ion
offo
od,1
861–
2009
(in
kilo
gram
s,un
less
othe
rwis
eno
ted)
Cer
eals
Frui
tsan
dve
geta
bles
Whe
atC
orn
Padd
yri
ceB
arle
yan
dry
ePo
tato
esD
ried
legu
mes
Fres
hle
gum
esT
omat
oes
Gre
ens
Fres
hfr
uit
Citr
usD
ried
frui
t
1861
–187
012
7.7
37.1
10.0
5.6
24.4
11.4
1.6
9.6
31.3
14.5
7.0
35.6
1871
–188
012
7.9
50.4
14.5
5.5
25.8
13.5
2.3
10.7
34.0
18.0
8.8
33.1
1881
–189
011
0.0
33.0
11.4
4.1
22.3
10.8
2.5
12.8
34.6
21.3
10.1
26.6
1891
–190
010
9.9
30.6
8.4
3.8
20.5
10.5
3.0
16.9
40.2
21.3
8.3
25.2
1901
–191
014
6.9
32.8
13.3
4.9
34.0
13.7
2.7
18.1
43.8
25.2
11.2
30.8
1911
–192
015
4.9
27.9
15.1
4.6
25.7
13.9
2.5
20.6
58.7
30.6
14.2
24.9
1921
–193
018
0.3
31.4
10.4
4.3
30.1
12.0
3.0
20.8
70.9
30.8
9.8
19.6
1931
–194
016
5.4
31.2
12.2
4.3
38.1
12.2
4.3
15.9
57.7
26.4
10.2
13.0
1941
–195
013
9.1
19.1
10.9
4.2
34.3
5.3
5.1
17.6
60.8
30.5
9.5
9.8
1951
–196
015
9.3
9.4
8.9
3.9
38.4
5.3
8.9
20.2
61.7
52.6
11.4
10.1
1961
–197
016
6.2
5.7
7.2
2.2
44.7
5.4
9.4
37.1
90.4
86.6
22.7
11.9
1971
–198
017
3.7
...
6.3
...
41.6
4.1
11.0
44.3
93.5
76.3
34.8
7.1
1981
–199
015
8.1
3.2
5.6
0.3
42.2
10.2
a56
.310
3.7
82.1
37.4
6.1
1991
–200
014
7.7
3.6
5.6
0.7
40.4
5.5a
63.5
123.
185
.445
.35.
820
01–2
009
148.
14.
26.
00.
539
.45.
5a57
.810
5.5
93.0
53.3
7.1
Mea
tFi
shE
ggs
and
Dai
ryO
ilsan
dFa
tsSu
gar,
coff
ee,e
tc.
Alc
ohol
icbe
vera
gesc
Dai
lyca
lori
es
Bee
fPo
rkM
utto
nan
dch
evon
Oth
erFr
esh
Dri
edan
dpr
eser
ved
Egg
sM
ilkC
hees
eO
live
oil
Seed oil
But
ter
Lar
dSu
gar
Cof
fee
Chi
cory
Win
eB
eer
1861
–187
03.
73.
91.
63.
51.
50.
96.
824
.31.
36.
9..
.0.
32.
72.
20.
4..
.83
.90.
22,
628
1871
–188
04.
84.
81.
83.
61.
71.
36.
526
.62.
38.
3..
.0.
53.
52.
60.
40.
190
.40.
42,
647
1881
–199
05.
95.
52.
13.
52.
21.
45.
731
.53.
15.
20.
60.
64.
02.
70.
50.
195
.40.
72,
197
1891
–190
06.
05.
11.
73.
02.
61.
54.
931
.92.
95.
40.
60.
73.
62.
40.
40.
189
.20.
52,
119
1901
–191
05.
74.
41.
43.
12.
51.
15.
134
.03.
55.
41.
00.
83.
23.
30.
60.
211
9.6
1.1
2,81
719
11–1
920
7.7
5.4
1.5
3.7
2.3
1.4
6.3
32.5
4.2
4.5
1.0
1.1
3.9
4.6
1.0
0.1
112.
12.
02,
694
1921
–193
09.
85.
31.
44.
23.
12.
36.
535
.54.
46.
62.
11.
13.
87.
91.
20.
211
2.7
3.3
2,83
419
31–1
940
9.0
5.3
1.2
4.9
4.0
2.0
7.2
3B.1
5.1
5.9
1.6
1.2
3.7
7.5
0.8
0.2
88.2
1.3
2,64
119
41–1
950
5.3
3.4
0.9
4.0
2.9
1.3
5.1
36.2
4.4
3.9
0.6
1.0
2.4
7.7
0.4
0.3
74.8
1.7
2,17
119
51–1
960
9.1
5.8
0.9
6.0
4.9
2.4
7.6
54.2
7.8
6.2
3.2
1.5
1.4
16.7
1.5
0.3
100.
63.
72,
418
1961
–197
019
.68.
10.
913
.96.
72.
69.
664
.49.
39.
66.
91.
81.
625
.02.
50.
311
0.5
9.2
2,89
719
71–1
980
24.2
16.0
1.2
23.1
7.6
2.0
11.4
75.9
12.3
11.1
10.2
2.1
2.3
29.4
3.4
...
102.
114
.33,
259
1981
–199
026
.126
.31.
625
.416
.4b
11.8
84.3
15.3
11.4
11.9
2.2
4.1
28.4
4.4
...
78.1
21.8
3,35
819
91–2
000
25.7
35.6
1.6
24.7
21.9
b12
.4..
...
.12
.213
.22.
55.
329
.14.
9..
.57
.223
.93,
574
2001
–200
923
.843
.11.
422
.624
.3b
11.7
63.3
22.7
13.8
13.7
2.8
4.7
29.6
5.6
...
45.8
29.0
3,66
4
a Agg
rega
teof
fres
han
ddr
ied
legu
mes
.bA
ggre
gate
offr
esh
and
drie
dor
othe
rwis
epr
eser
ved
fish.
c Alc
ohol
icbe
vera
ges
inlit
ers.
Sour
ce:I
STA
T,S
omm
ario
dist
atist
iche
stor
iche
dell’
Ital
ia18
61–1
975
(Rom
e,19
76);
idem
,Som
mar
iodi
stat
istic
hest
oric
he19
26–1
985
(Rom
e,19
86);
for
the
data
afte
r19
86,s
eeFa
osta
t,Fo
odB
alan
ceSh
eets
,Ita
ly,1
986–
2009
;for
the
data
afte
r19
85on
the
cons
umpt
ion
ofm
ilk/
yogu
rtan
dch
eese
,see
ISM
EA
,Con
sum
ipro
-cap
ite
2003
–200
9(R
ome,
2010
).B
ecau
seof
the
hete
roge
neity
ofth
eso
urce
san
dth
edi
ffer
ent
long
-ter
msu
rvey
met
hods
,the
data
prov
ide
anap
prox
imat
ein
dica
tion
ofth
eco
nsum
ptio
ntr
end.
Tab
le4
Wor
kers
’Wee
kly
Die
tsin
1885
(in
kilo
gram
sun
less
othe
rwis
eno
ted)
Com
pany
Loc
atio
nB
read
Cor
nflo
urPa
sta
Ric
eV
eget
able
sFr
esh
mea
tSa
lted
mea
tFi
shM
ilkC
hees
eW
inea
Can
toni
woo
lmill
Gal
lara
te(V
ares
se)
10.0
...
...
1.7
...
0.4
...
...
...
...
1.7
Ver
nazz
ifab
rics
silk
Mila
n4.
6..
.0.
42.
02.
70.
5..
...
.2.
00.
23.
5C
andi
anib
rick
sM
ilan
4.4
1.0
...
3.5
...
0.4
...
...
...
0.3
1.0
Prin
ting
wor
ksM
ondo
vì(M
anto
va)
3.3
2.0
0.3
0.4
1.8
0.5
...
...
0.6
0.2
6.0
Silv
era
beer
hous
eC
hiav
enna
(Son
drio
)3.
53.
00.
51.
2av
erag
e0.
50.
2..
.2.
00.
33.
5
Indu
stri
alfa
ctor
ies
Ver
ona
5.0
4.0
little
little
alo
t0.
7a
lot
aver
age
little
0.2
3.5
Ros
siw
oolm
illSc
hio
(Vic
enza
)3.
05.
6..
.1.
4..
.2.
1..
...
.1.
4..
.3.
5N
ariz
zano
and
Ghe
rsit
anne
ryG
enoa
6.0
...
2.0
0.5
3.0
1.0
0.1
aver
age
1.00
0.3
4.0
Cra
ftsm
enof
the
plai
nsB
olog
na3.
52.
72.
0..
.2.
01.
0lit
tlelit
tlelit
tle0.
57.
0
Gal
lott
ikiln
Bol
ogna
8.0
0.5
2.0
0.3
2.5
0.2
0.2
little
little
0.4
3.5
Mat
chfa
ctor
yS.
Gio
vann
iV
alda
rno
(Are
zzo)
8.0
...
0.4
0.3
1.0
0.5
0.3
little
little
0.4
7.0
Boc
ciw
oolm
illB
ibbi
ena
(Are
zzo)
5.8
0.9
0.2
0.2
0.8
0.6
0.3
little
1.1
0.4
1.4
Cin
ipap
erm
illat
La
Lim
aS.
Mar
cello
Pist
oies
e(P
isto
ia)
7.0
...
...
1.3
...
1.0
...
...
0.5
...
3.5
Oil
mill
Bar
i10
.0..
...
...
...
.0.
5..
...
...
...
.7.
0Pa
tria
rca
foun
dry
Cat
ania
6.0
...
3.0
0.5
5.0
0.5
...
1.0
1.0
0.5
3.0
Refi
ning
sulfu
rsC
atan
ia6.
0..
.3.
0..
.3.
5lit
tle0.
1lit
tle..
.lit
tle6.
0M
ines
ofM
onte
poni
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sias
(Cag
liari
)7.
0..
.2.
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.1.
51.
00.
4..
...
.0.
77.
0
a Win
ein
liter
s.So
urce
:S.S
omog
yi,“
Cen
toan
nidi
bila
ncif
amili
arii
nIt
alia
(185
7–19
56),
”in
Ann
ali
(Mila
n,19
59),
147
(with
refe
renc
eto
the
min
iste
rial
inve
stig
atio
nab
out
the
hygi
ene
and
heal
thco
nditi
ons
inth
em
unic
ipal
adm
inis
trat
ions
ofth
eIt
alia
nK
ingd
omin
1885
).
Table 5 Percentage variation in wholesale and retail prices of food
1890–1913 1920–1939 1950–1970
Wholesale Retail Wholesale Retail Wholesale Retail
General price index 0.8 0.4 2.3 0.4 1.1 3.5Flour 0.8 . . . 0.8 . . . 0.3 –Bread . . . 0.1 . . . 2.3 . . . 2.0Pasta 1.3 0.1 0.3 2.1 1.3 1.8Rice 0.1 0.3 2.4 0.4 1.8 2.3Potatoes . . . 1.7 . . . 2.3 . . . 3.9Butter 0.7 0.7 3.1 2.6 1.6 1.9Sugar 0.6 0.1 0.1 0.0 0.9 0.8Beef . . . 0.9 . . . 0.8 . . . 4.1Pork . . . 1.4 . . . 1.4 . . . 4.4Milk . . . 0.5 . . . 2.4 . . . 3.3Wine . . . 0.1 . . . 2.1 . . . 2.4
Source: G. M. Rey, ed., I conti economici dell’Italia, vol. I, Una sintesi delle fonti ufficiali 1890–1970 (Rome-Bari, 1991), 34–35.
Tab
le6
Prod
uctio
nof
elec
tric
alho
useh
old
appl
ianc
esin
Ital
y
Ref
rige
rato
rsFr
eeze
rsSt
oves
aD
ishw
ashe
rs
Num
ber
(tho
usan
ds)
Val
ue(l
ira)
Num
ber
(tho
usan
ds)
Val
ue(l
ira)
Num
ber
(tho
usan
ds)
Val
ue(l
ira)
Num
ber
(tho
usan
ds)
Val
ue(l
ira)
1956
200
67,3
50..
...
...
...
...
...
.
1957
370
65,0
00..
...
...
...
...
...
.
1958
500
67,2
88..
...
...
...
...
...
.
1959
750
59,5
81..
...
...
...
...
...
.
1960
977
50,2
95..
...
...
...
...
...
.
1961
1,52
846
,990
...
...
...
...
115
0,00
019
621,
768
42,7
26..
...
...
...
.11
110,
000
1963
2,18
740
,504
610
0,00
0..
...
.12
100,
000
1964
2,17
637
,314
910
0,00
0..
...
.14
100,
000
1965
2,60
834
,258
116
50,0
00..
...
.52
90,0
0019
662,
807
31,1
3628
750
,000
2,61
719
,803
105
76,0
0019
673,
205
30,8
8932
550
,000
3,31
119
,635
230
60,0
0019
684,
387
30,0
0037
348
,000
3,64
119
,190
405
60,0
0019
695,
002
30,0
0047
050
,000
4,21
220
,405
456
58,0
0019
705,
247
31,2
8847
248
,270
3,82
424
,272
485
64,5
0019
715,
257
33,4
3780
352
,550
3,50
024
,950
493
67,5
0019
725,
424
34,0
2790
752
,850
3,82
125
,550
536
70,0
0019
735,
307
38,4
061,
106
53,1
003,
706
29,7
2059
672
,500
1974
5,20
458
,385
1,50
373
,500
3,83
138
,780
612
83,5
0019
754,
953
59,0
891,
629
75,3
703,
607
40,3
3052
885
,600
a Ele
ctri
c,ga
s,an
ddu
alfu
el.
Sour
ce:V
.Bal
loni
,Ori
gini
,svi
lupp
oe
mat
urit
àde
ll’in
dust
ria
degl
iele
ttro
dom
esti
ci(B
olog
na,1
978)
,225
–27.
Table 7 European food consumption inside and outside the home in 2009
Country Consumptioninside the home
Consumptionoutside the home
Total
millions of euros percent millions of euros percent millions of euros
Germany 149,570 70.1 63,940 29.9 213,510Italy 135,131 65.6 70,705 34.4 205,836France 147,832 74.2 51,333 25.8 199,165United Kingdom 94,163 52.5 85,085 47.5 179,248Spain 86,326 48.7 90,846 51.3 177,172Greece 29,809 61.8 18,429 38.2 48,239Poland 37,518 90.1 4,117 9.9 41,635Holland 30,075 72.4 11,429 27.6 41,504Belgium 23,429 72.3 8,997 27.7 32,426Austria 16,498 57.9 11,973 42.1 28,471Portugala 18,140 64.7 9,881 35.3 28,021Sweden 17,747 73.2 6,482 26.8 24,229Romania 20,894 91.3 1,988 8.7 22,882Irelandb 8,135 44.9 9,996 55.1 18,131Finland 11,581 68.3 5,369 31.7 16,950Denmark 12,115 71.6 4,809 28.4 16,924Czech Republic 11,157 75.3 3,665 24.7 14,822Hungary 8,766 83.4 1,744 16.6 10,509Slovakiac 6,406 75.0 2,136 25.0 8,542Lithuania 4,681 91.9 412 8.1 5,093Bulgariad 3,515 74.4 1,211 25.6 4,727Slovenia 3,086 73.0 1,144 27.0 4,231Cyprus 1,946 65.7 1,016 34.3 2,962Latvia 2,061 84.8 371 15.2 2,433Luxembourg 1,313 60.7 851 39.3 2,164Estonia 1,561 83.6 306 16.4 1,867Malta 684 67.3 332 32.7 1,016
EU-27e 882,038 65.3 468,381 34.7 1,350,419
aPortugal figures are for 2007.bIreland figures are for 2008.cSlovakia figures are for 2008.dBulgaria figures are for 2005.e“EU-27” denotes “European Union” and the number of member states at the time.Source: FIPE (Italian Federation of Bars and Restaurants), L’Europa al ristorante (February 2011), 21.
Table 8 Italian food industry revenues, 2006–2010 (millions of euros)
Sector 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Dairy 14,200 14,350 14,500 14,425 14,800Confectionery 10,146 10,813 11,290 11,528 12,051Wine 10,700 10,900 10,900 10,600 10,700Salumi 7,370 7,554 7,578 7,601 7,928Meat 4,950 6,050 6,500 5,700 6,650Beef 5,800 5,920 5,900 5,900 5,900Poultry 3,900 5,300 5,300 5,320 5,300Pasta 3,519 3,730 4,600 4,444 4,303Olive and seed oils 4,200 4,300 4,200 4,000 4,200Frozen foods 3,948 3,980 4,040 4,061 4,126Canned vegetables 3,220 3,413 3,700 3,700 3,700Infant, dietetic, and
nutritionalsupplements
2,600 2,690 2,800 3,000 3,050
Milling 2,392 3,168 3,636 2,560 2,590Beer 2,450 2,500 2,450 2,400 2,550Coffee 2,200 2,300 2,350 2,400 2,440Mineral waters 2,200 2,300 2,300 2,200 2,100Carbonated
beverages1,750 1,780 1,800 1,800 1,800
Fish 1,223 1,256 1,306 1,387 1,420Fruit juices and
processed fruitproducts
1,060 1,090 1,086 1,064 1,053
Rice 870 910 1,200 1,050 1,030Distilled spirits 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000 1,000Freeze-dried
produce850 890 940 970 1,000
Industrial bread 501 594 631 631 651Sugar 1,100 650 650 630 630Bread substitutes 281 333 362 365 384Miscellaneous 17,570 15,229 18,981 21,264 22,644
Total 110,000 113,000 120,000 120,000 124,000
Source: Federalimentare (Italian Food Industry Federation), Industria alimentare: I fatturati dei comparti2006–2007–2008–2009–2010 (Rome, 2011).
Table 9 Percentages of food and nonfood consumption in Italy
Food consumption(percent)
Nonfood consumption(percent)
Total expenditures(millions of euros)
1861–1870 64.1 35.9 . . .
1871–1880 65.2 34.8 . . .
1881–1890 63.6 36.4 . . .
1891–1900 62.3 37.7 . . .
1901–1910 62.4 37.6 . . .
1911–1920 62.1 37.9 . . .
1921–1930 58.7 41.3 . . .
1931–1940 52.1 47.9 . . .
1941–1950 49.7 50.3 . . .
1951–1960 44.7 55.3 . . .
1961–1970 42.0 58.0 . . .
1971–1980 34.6 65.4 . . .
1981 30.7 69.3 519.151982 30.4 69.6 606.471983 30.1 69.9 655.451984 29.1 70.9 731.811985 28.1 71.9 852.581986 26.9 73.1 932.101987 25.5 74.5 997.611988 24.4 75.6 1,083.341989 23.1 76.9 1,210.931990 23.5 76.5 1,311.38
1991 22.7 77.3 1,431.061992 22.4 77.6 1,475.821993 22.7 77.3 1,452.221994 21.7 78.3 1,591.351995 21.5 78.5 1,661.791996 21.1 78.9 1,729.701997 19.8 80.2 2,024.931998 19.4 80.6 2,076.651999 19.1 80.9 2,088.112000 18.6 81.4 2,177.82
2001 18.9 81.1 2,178.312002 19.4 80.6 2,197.792003 19.5 80.5 2,307.542004 19.0 81.0 2,381.072005 19.0 81.0 2,397.542006 19.0 81.0 2,460.802007 18.8 81.2 2,480.072008 19.1 80.9 2,484.642009 18.9 81.1 2,441.77
Source: ISTAT, Sommario di statistiche storiche dell’Italia 1861–1975, Rome 1976; idem, Serie storiche 150anni, 2011.
Tab
le10
Ave
rage
mon
thly
expe
nditu
res
onfo
odin
Ital
yby
regi
on,1
981–
2009
(per
cent
ages
)
Bre
adan
dce
real
sM
eat
Fish
Oil
and
fats
Milk
,ch
eese
,egg
sPo
tato
es,
frui
t,ve
geta
bles
Suga
r,co
ffee
,tea
,et
c.
Bev
erag
esT
otal
(eur
os)
Nor
thw
est
1981
–199
013
.931
.43.
76.
013
.715
.16.
69.
623
319
91–2
000
16.8
24.8
5.9
4.9
14.3
16.0
7.2
10.1
372
2001
–200
917
.422
.77.
23.
813
.917
.87.
110
.145
8
Nor
thea
st19
81–1
990
14.1
29.8
4.1
5.8
14.6
15.4
6.7
9.5
223
1991
–200
017
.023
.66.
04.
614
.916
.67.
210
.135
620
01–2
009
18.1
21.4
7.1
3.6
14.1
18.5
7.2
10.0
423
Cen
ter
1981
–199
012
.833
.76.
26.
712
.115
.35.
87.
425
219
91–2
000
15.4
26.4
7.9
5.5
13.1
16.5
6.5
8.7
372
2001
–200
916
.523
.89.
23.
712
.818
.56.
68.
946
2
Sout
h19
81–1
990
14.6
29.3
8.0
6.7
13.2
14.4
6.5
7.3
234
1991
–200
015
.924
.99.
35.
414
.415
.17.
27.
836
320
01–2
009
16.4
22.9
10.5
3.7
13.8
17.3
7.2
8.2
457
Ital
yas
aw
hole
1981
–199
014
.030
.95.
76.
313
.315
.06.
48.
423
519
91–2
000
16.3
24.9
7.4
5.1
14.2
15.9
7.1
9.1
366
2001
–200
917
.022
.78.
63.
713
.717
.97.
19.
345
2
Sour
ce:I
STA
T,S
erie
stor
iche
150
anni
,201
1.
N ot e s
Preface
1. C. Lévi-Strauss, Il crudo e il cotto (1964; Milan, 1966), 96–97.
Chapter 1
1. G. Tomasi di Lampedusa, Il Gattopardo (1957; Milan, 2002), 89–94, quotes89 and 94 respectively.
2. D. Gilmour, L’ultimo Gattopardo: Vita di Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa(1988; Milan, 1989), 54.
3. R. Chiarini, Destra italiana dall’Unità d’Italia a Alleanza Nazionale (Venice,1995), 21–32.
4. G. C. Jocteau, Nobili e nobiltà nell’Italia unita (Rome, 1997), 8.5. P. Bourdieu, La distinzione: Critica sociale del gusto (1979; Bologna, 1983),
65–73.6. Ibid., 68–72.7. Marchesa Colombi [= M. A. Torriani], La gente per bene (1877; Milan, 1893).8. Gibus [= M. Serao], Saper vivere (norme di buona creanza) (Naples, 1900).9. M. Gioja, Nuovo Galateo (1802), (Milan, 1886).
10. G. De Nittis, Il pranzo del vescovo, oil on wood, ca. 1863.11. The castle of the Sanvitale family, ceded to the municipal district by the last
descendant in 1948, is today a museum open to the public. It is possibleto visit many rooms (including the dining hall described here, with its fur-nishings). For more on the castle, see M. Dall’Acqua and M. Calidoni, eds.,Fontanellato: Corte di pianura (Fontanellato, 2004).
12. P. Bourdieu, Per una teoria della pratica: Con tre studi di etnologia cabila(1972; Milan, 2003).
13. D. Roche, Storia delle cose banali: La nascita del consumo in Occidente (1999;Rome, 2002), 222–27.
14. R. Strong, Feast: A History of Grand Eating (London, 2002), 88–290.15. On Italian still-life paintings, see A. Appiano, Bello da mangiare: Il cibo come
forma simbolica nell’arte (Rome, 2001), 102–5. Adjacent to the dining hall inthe Sanvitale castle is the “billiard room,” where there are two other still-lifepaintings by Felice Boselli, these depicting meat (and therefore a profusion ofquartered animals, heads lined up, dead game, and so on).
16. G. Mazzoleni, Miti e leggende dell’Africa nera (Rome, 1988), 172–73.17. Some love knives are in the “Cesare Lombroso” Criminal Anthropology
Museum in Turin, and others are in the Museum of Cutting Tools inScarperia, near Florence. See also G. Baronti, Coltelli d’Italia: Rituali di vio-lenza e tradizioni produttive nel mondo popolare. Storia e catalogazione (Rome,2008).
222 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 1
18. M. Visser, The Rituals of Dinner: The Origins, Evolution, Eccentricities, andMeaning of Table Manners (1991; London, 1992), 183–96. The use ofchopsticks began in China and is an example of the spread of customs linkedto food across a vast geographical area.
19. N. Elias, Il processo di civilizzazione (1939; Bologna, 1988); N. Elias, Lasocietà di corte (1969; Bologna, 1980).
20. N. Elias and E. Dunning, Quest for Excitement: Sport and Leisure in theCivilizing Process (Oxford, 1986).
21. Gioja, Nuovo Galateo, 9.22. Ibid., 95–97.23. A. J. Schuurman and L. S. Walsh, eds., Material Culture: Consumption, Life-
style, Standard of Living, 1500–1900 (Milan, 1994), introduction, 7–20; J.-L.Flandrin, and M. Montanari, eds., Storia dell’alimentazione (Rome, 1997).
24. S. Pinkard, A Revolution in Taste: The Rise of French Cuisine, 1650–1800(Cambridge, 2009); P. P. Ferguson, Accounting for Taste: The Triumph ofFrench Cuisine (Chicago, IL, 2004); A. B. Trubek, Haute Cuisine: How theFrench Invented the Culinary Profession (Philadelphia, PA, 2000).
25. Gioja, Nuovo Galateo, 78.26. Ibid., 79.27. Strong, Feast, 291–92.28. F. Razzetti, Parma a tavola: Storia, curiosità, testimonianze, poesia (Parma,
1990), 65.29. Regarding the etiquette for the various types of meals, see Gibus [M. Serao],
Saper vivere, 74–82. The following details about the dinner are taken from thecited books on good manners by Gioja, Serao, and Colombi. Some particularsof the table that could not be reconstructed from the furnishings kept in thecastle of Fontanellato are taken from paintings of the period. For the clothes,see also R. Levi Pisetzky, Il costume e la moda nella societa italiana (Turin,1995).
30. The menu described is in Razzetti, Parma a tavola, 62. See also Giulio Fano’sprivate collection of Sanvitale menus.
31. Marquise Colombi [M. A. Torriani], La gente per bene, 144–45.32. Gioja, Nuovo Galateo, 92.33. C. Benporat, Storia della gastronomia italiana (Milan, 1990), 384.34. Razzetti, Parma a tavola, 63.35. L. Cerini di Castegnate, Il gentiluomo in cucina (Milan, 2002), 35–42. Exam-
ples of more complex menus can be found, for example, in G. Vialardi,Trattato di cucina (Turin, 1854); they envisaged twenty courses plus the fruit(another seven dishes), accompanied by a vast selection of vermouths anddry wines for the initial courses, red wines for the strong dishes, and finallyboth sparkling and sweet wines for the dessert. See also Benporat, Storia dellagastronomia italiana, 385–88. Regarding the French menu and its trans-formations over time, see J.-L. Flandrin, Arranging the Meal: A History ofTable Service in France (2002; Berkeley, 2007).
36. E. De Conciliis, “Nutrirsi dell’altro: Viaggio antropologico nell’inconscioalimentare,” in L’albero della cuccagna: Il cibo e la mente, ed. B. Coppola,P. D’Alconzo, and E. De Conciliis (Naples, 1997), 93–166.
37. P. Scarpi, Il senso del cibo (Palermo, 2005), 23–25.38. Regarding Jewish cuisine in Italy and its characteristics (including the
widespread use of duck instead of pork), see A. Toaff, Mangiare alla giu-dia: La cucina ebraica in Italia dal Rinascimento all’eta moderna (Bologna,
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 1 223
2002). On the characteristics of halal food, see M. N. Riaz and M. M.Chaudry, Halal Food Production (Boca Raton, 2003).
39. Deut. 12:23 (Douay Version).40. C. Lévi-Strauss, Le origini delle buone maniere a tavola (1968; Milan, 1971),
428–40; C. Lévi-Strauss, Il crudo e il cotto (1964; Milan, 1966).41. Lévi-Strauss, Le origini delle buone maniere, 435.42. C. Malamoud, Cuocere il mondo: Rito e pensiero nell’India antica (Milan,
1994).43. M. Harris, Buono da mangiare: Enigmi del gusto e consuetudini alimentari
(1985; Turin, 1990); M. Harris, Cultural Materialism: The Struggle for aScience of Culture (New York, 1979).
44. P. Gho, ed., Dizionario delle cucine regionali italiane (Bra, 2008), 88–91.45. Bourdieu, La distinzione, 78–79.46. R. Benedict, Patterns of Culture (1934; Boston, MA, 2005), 197–99.47. A. Maddison, “Historical Statistics for the World Economy: 1–2008 AD,”
Excel spreadsheet, 2010 version, Maddison’s homepage, Groningen Growthand Development Center, http://www.ggdc.net/maddison/oriindex.htm.These figures are in 1990 International Geary-Kharnis dollars.
48. The data given come from the Ministry of Agriculture, Industry and Trade,Annuario statistico italiano 1889–1990 (Rome, 1891), 81–84.
49. A. L. Cardoza, Patrizi in un mondo plebeo: La nobiltà piemontese nell’Italialiberale (1997; Rome, 1999), 188. Regarding the lifestyle of the Italianaristocracy, see also Jocteau, Nobili e nobiltà nell’Italia unita; P. Macry,Ottocento: Famiglia, élites e patrimoni a Napoli (Turin, 1988).
50. C. Sarasúa, “Upholding Status: The Diet of a Noble Family in EarlyNineteenth-Century La Mancha,” in Food, Drink and Identity: Cooking, Eat-ing and Drinking in Europe since the Middle Ages, ed. P. Scholliers (Oxford,2001), 37–62.
51. S. Mennell, All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and Francefrom the Middle Ages to the Present (Oxford, 1985), 30–34.
52. J. Goody, Cooking, Cuisine, and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology(Cambridge, 1982), 97–153. See also M. van der Veen, “When Is Food a Lux-ury?,” in Luxury Foods, ed. M. van der Veen, special issue of World Archaeology34, no. 3 (February 2003): 405–27.
53. F. Rigotti, Gola. La passione dell’ingordigia (Bologna, 2008), 34–42.54. Pieter Bruegel the Elder, Gluttony (painting), 1557.55. Razzetti, Parma a tavola, 53.56. For a general picture of the different foods and their origins see A. Davidson,
The Oxford Companion to Food, 2nd ed. (Oxford, 2006).57. A. W. Crosby, The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences
of 1492 (Westport, CT, 1972).58. G. Ballarini, Storia, miti e identità della Cucina Parmigiana (Parma, 2007),
430–31.59. See the observations of A. Capatti and M. Montanari, “Italia,” in Atlante
dell’alimentazione e della gastronomia, vol. II, Cucine, pasti, convivialità(Turin, 2004), 675–87. On cookbooks, see A. Capatti and M. Montanari, Lacucina italiana: Storia di una cultura (Rome, 1999), chaps. 5–6; E. Facciolied., L’arte della cucina in Italia: Libri di ricette e trattati sulla civiltà dellatavola dal XIV al XIX secolo (Turin, 1987). There are many regional cook-books, for example, J. C. Francesconi, La cucina napoletana (Rome, 1992);
224 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 2
S. Doglio, La tradizione gastronomica italiana: Piemonte (Milan, 1991); andM. A. Di Leo, La cucina siciliana (Rome, 1993). For a general historical pic-ture, see H. Notaker, Printed Cookbooks in Europe, 1470–1700: A Bibliographyof Early Modern Culinary Literature (New Castle, 2010).
60. Capatti, Montanari, Italia, 683.61. P. Artusi, La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene (1891; Florence,
1967), 464, 119–20, and 320.62. Ibid., 199, 259, and 473.63. On this point, see the observations of Z. Ciuffoletti, “Cultura e tradizione
alimentare tra Ottocento e Novecento,” in Desinari nostrani: Storiadell’alimentazione a Firenze e in Toscana, ed. Z. Ciuffoletti and G. Pinto(Florence, 2005), 171–85. See also J. Dickie, Con gusto: Storia degli italiania tavola (Rome, 2007).
64. M. Alberini, Storia del pranzo all’italiana: Dal triclinio allo snack (Milan,1966), 231–42.
65. See the various examples of menus from the royal House of Savoy inM. Campiverdi, ed., Arte e storia a tavola: Due secoli di menu (Rome, 2003),163–77.
66. R. A. Goldthwaite, Wealth and the Demand for Art in Italy 1300–1600(Baltimore, MD, 1993), 4–9, 212–50.
67. Regarding an “imagined community,” see B. Anderson, Comunità immagi-nate: origini e diffusione dei nazionalismi (1983; Rome, 1996).
Chapter 2
1. G. Verga, “La roba,” in Novelle rusticane (1883, Torino, 1885), 107–19.2. See the proverbs quoted in F. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi (Milan,
1970), 18, 115, 67, 71, 116, 127, 21, and 17, respectively.3. Ibid., 126.4. H. Franco Jr., Nel paese di Cuccagna: La società medievale tra il sogno e la vita
quotidiana (1998; Rome, 2001).5. G. Mazzoleni, Miti e leggende dell’Africa nera (Rome, 1988), 33–34.6. R. Darnton, Il grande massacro dei gatti e altri episodi della storia culturale
francese (1984; Milan, 1988), 42–43, 74–78.7. G. C. Croce, Le sottilissime astutie di Bertoldo (1606), chapter entitled “Detti
sentenziosi di Bertoldo innanzi la sua morte.”8. Istituto centrale di statistica, Sommario di statistiche storiche dell’Italia 1861–
1975 (Rome, 1976), 14.9. See P. Bevilacqua, Storia dell’agricoltura italiana in età contemporanea
(Venice, 1989). For an overview of the economic aspects, see V. Zamagni,Dalla periferia al centro: La seconda rinascita economica dell’Italia 1861–1990(Bologna, 1993), 67–101.
10. The account of Pietro Balsamo, called “the American,” class of 1894, inN. Revelli, Il mondo dei vinti: Testimonianze di vita contadina, vol. 1, Lapianura: La collina (Turin, 1977), 5.
11. Stefano Jacini, Atti per la Giunta per la inchiesta agraria e sulle condizionidella classe agricola, vol. 15, Relazione finale sui risultati dell’inchiesta (Rome,1884), 12.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 2 225
12. P. Villari, Le lettere meridionali ed altri scritti sulla questione sociale in Italia(1885; Naples, 1979), 39.
13. Ibid., 204.14. V. Zamagni, “L’evoluzione dei consumi fra tradizione e innovazione,” in
Storia d’Italia: Annali, vol. 13, L’alimentazione, ed. A. Capatti, A. DeBernardi, and A. Varni (Turin, 1998), 175–76.
15. E. Scarpellini, Material Nation: A Consumer’s Consumer’s History of ModernItaly (Oxford, 2011), 5–7, 60.
16. S. Somogyi, “Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia (1857–1956),” inAnnali (Milan, 1959), 140. The surveys of subsequent years, such asG. Montemartini’s on the peasants in Apulia from 1905 to 1907, also confirma dramatic situation, with about half the families having expenses exceedingtheir incomes; see Somogyi, 156–69.
17. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi, 38.18. Somogyi, Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia, 141–46.19. Ibid., 153.20. Ibid., 156–64.21. Ndie zot—cibo in memoria dei morti (documentary), directed by P. Silvestri
(Italy, 2008).22. E. Weber, Da contadini a francesi: La modernizzazione della Francia rurale
1870–1914 (1976; Bologna, 1989), 255–83.23. G. Dallas, The Imperfect Peasant Economy: The Loire Country, 1800–1914
(Cambridge, 1982).24. S. C. Rogers, “Good to Think: The ‘Peasant’ in Contemporary France,”
Anthropological Quarterly 60, no. 2 (April 1987): 56–63.25. E. E. Evans-Pritchard, Witchcraft, Oracles, and Magic among the Azande
(1937; Oxford, 1972), 259–312.26. Somogyi, Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia, 140.27. S. L. Pimm, The Balance of Nature? Ecological Issues in the Conservation
of Species and Communities (Chicago, IL, 1991); F. Paolini, Breve storiadell’ambiente nel Novecento (Rome, 2009).
28. This section has been reconstructed above all thanks to oral history testi-mony; it is based on over 500 accounts collected by Nuto Revelli in the1970s from Piedmontese peasants. In particular, the entire description ofthe place, the meal, and the details of family history—apart from differentindications—are taken from the account of Anna Lucia Giordanengo, calledLüsiota, a peasant born in 1891 (collected by Nuto Revelli on June 21, 1970),in Revelli, Il mondo dei vinti, 1:83–85. Other details of the casot descriptionhave been added thanks to exhibitions about peasant life by institutions likethe Ethnographic Museum of the Province of Cuneo at Rocca de’ Baldi.
29. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi, 30–31.30. Michele Costamagna, called Chin ’l Giardiné, class of 1886, in Revelli, Il
mondo dei vinti, 1:43.31. Caterina Toselli, called Nuia, class of 1890, ibid., 35.32. Giovanni Battista Ponzo, called Carabin, class of 1888, in Revelli, Il mondo
dei vinti, vol. 2, La montagna: Le langhe (Turin, 1977), 65.33. Margherita Lovera, called Nota’d Batistin ’d Drea, class of 1895, in Revelli, Il
mondo dei vinti, 1:96.34. Giovanni Battista Ponzo, called Carabin, class of 1888, in Revelli, Il mondo
dei vinti, 2:65.
226 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 2
35. Maria Einaudi, class of 1898, in N. Revelli, L’anello forte: La donna: storie divita contadina (Turin, 1985), 216–17.
36. Anna Lucia Giordanengo, in Revelli, Il mondo dei vinti, 1: 83.37. Ibid., 84.38. Giuseppina Sordello, class of 1922, in Revelli, L’anello forte, 183–84.39. Ibid., 184.40. M. De Cecco and A. Pedone, “Le istituzioni dell’economia,” in Storia dello
Stato italiano dall’unità a oggi, ed. R. Romanelli (Rome, 1995), 275–78.A classic interpretation of the bread riots (caused not only by hunger, but alsoby the “pre-capitalist” demand for a “just” price) is in E.P. Thompson, “TheMoral Economy of the English Crowd in the Eighteenth Century,” Past andPresent 50 (1971): 76–136.
41. Cristina Robaldo, class of 1898, in Revelli, L’anello forte, 328.42. Regarding the situation in the modern period until the first half of the nine-
teenth century, see R. Sarti, Vita di casa: abitare, mangiare, vestire nell’Europamoderna (Rome, 1999), esp. chap. 5.
43. See P. Bourdieu, La distinzione: Critica sociale del gusto (1979; Bologna,1983), 196–202.
44. Quotations from Maria Abello, class of 1897, and Adele, class of 1898,respectively, in Revelli, L’anello forte, 215 and 124.
45. K. Honeyman, “Engendering Enterprise,” Business History 43, no. 1 (Jan-uary 2001): 119–26; A. Kwolek-Folland, “Gender and Business History”(introduction to special issue), Enterprise & Society 2, no. 1 (March 2001):1–10.
46. Bartolomeo Spada, called Tumé ’d Rübatin, class of 1878, in Revelli, Il mondodei vinti, 1:94.
47. L. Ballerini, “Introduction: A as in Artusi, G as in Gentleman andGastronome,” in P. Artusi, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well(Toronto, 2003), xlix.
48. Marianna Landra, class of 1939, in Revelli, L’anello forte, 265.49. J. Bierhorst, The Mythology of Mexico and Central America (New York, 2002).50. A. De Bernardi, Il mal della rosa: Denutrizione e pellagra nelle campagne
italiane fra ’800 e ’900 (Milan, 1984).51. J. S. Hampl and W. S. Hampl III, “Pellagra and the Origin of a Myth: Evi-
dence from European Literature and Folklore,” Journal of the Royal Societyof Medicine 90 (November 1997): 636–39. It should be noted that in Italymany sufferers of the disease ended up in insane asylums (see P. Sorcinelli,“Per una storia sociale dell’alimentazione: Dalla polenta ai crackers,” in Storiad’Italia: Annali, vol. 13, L’alimentazione, 469–73). There is a lack of reliableestimates of the incidence of the disease in Italy. The official sources indicateas many as 4,000 cases reported every year as late as the first decade of thetwentieth century, with an incidence of 11.7 for every 100,000 inhabitants.See Istituto centrale di statistica, Sommario, 41.
52. N. Nunn and N. Qian, “The Potato’s Contribution to Population andUrbanization: Evidence from an Historical Experiment,” Quarterly Journalof Economics 126, no. 2 (2011): 593–650.
53. Vincent Van Gogh, The Potato Eaters (oil painting), 1885.54. T. Standage, Una storia commestibile dell’umanità (2009; Turin, 2010),
124–26.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 3 227
55. V. Teti, Il colore del cibo: Geografia, mito e realtà dell’alimentazione mediter-ranea (Rome, 1999), 189.
56. Villari, Le lettere meridionali, 71.57. Teti, Il colore del cibo, 68–69.58. Z. Ciuffoletti and G. Pinto, eds., Desinari nostrani: Storia dell’alimentazione
a Firenze e in Toscana (Florence, 2005), 197–98.59. P. Gho, ed., Dizionario delle cucine regionali italiane (Bra, 2008), 462.60. V. Bordo and A. Surrusca, eds., L’Italia del pane (Bra, 2002); this book
describes 208 different types of bread.61. M. Sanfilippo, “Tipologia dell’emigrazione di massa,” in Storia
dell’emigrazione italiana, vol. 2, Partenze, ed. P. Bevilacqua, A. De Clementi,and E. Franzina (Rome, 2001), 79–81.
62. A. Harlingue, Emigranti che lasciano l’Italia, ca. 1900 (photograph), ArchiviAlinari, Florence (hereafter: Alinari), RVA-S-004088-0008. This and theimages cited below from the same archive can be seen at http://www.alinariarchives.it.
63. Un gruppo di emigranti che affolla il ponte di una nave, ca. 1900 (photo-graph), Alinari, INT-F-031292-0000.
64. A. Harlingue, Emigranti a Ellis Island, New York; sullo sfondo si intravede laStatua della Liberta, 1900 (photograph), Alinari, RVAS-000161-0004.
65. M. Douglas, “Deciphering a Meal” (1972), in idem, Implicit Meanings:Selected Essays in Anthropology (London, 2003), 231.
66. S. Cinotto, “La cucina diasporica: Il cibo come segno di identità culturale,”in Storia d’Italia: Annali, vol. 24, Migrazioni, ed. P. Corti and M. Sanfilippo(Turin, 2009), 653–72.
67. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi, 96–97, 103, 104, 101, respectively.Regarding the significance, for the ancient Greeks, of the dietary triad referredto, see P. Scarpi, Il senso del cibo (Palermo, 2005), 31–43.
68. E. W. Said, Orientalism (1978; New York, 2003), 49–73.69. I. Chambers, Le molte voci del Mediterraneo (Milan, 2007), 11–17, 34–45; A.
Meneley, “Like an Extra Virgin,” American Anthropologist 109, no. 4 (2007):678–87.
70. Teti, Il colore del cibo, 34–47.71. M. Jones, Il pranzo della festa: Una storia dell’alimentazione in undici
banchetti (2007; Milan, 2009), 349–55.72. Ibid., 351.73. Ibid., 367–68. In the Philippines, for example, it is possible to trace an inter-
esting evolution concerning the consumption of rice, perceived for a longtime as an elitist food full of magical connotations, up to its transformation, atthe end of the nineteenth century, into a mass consumption product, whichgradually lost its central dietary importance. See F. V. Aguilar, Jr., Rice in theFilipino Diet and Culture, Discussion Paper Series No. 2005–15, PhilippineInstitute for Development Studies, July 2005.
Chapter 3
1. M. Serao, Il ventre di Napoli (venti anni fa, adesso, l’anima di Napoli) (Rome,1906), 22–28.
2. Ibid., 102.
228 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 3
3. G. Brogi, Un acquaiolo palermitano vende un bicchiere d’acqua, ca. 1900(photograph), Alinari, BGA-F-012071-0000.
4. Ministero di Agricoltura, industria e commercio, Annuario statistico italiano1889–1990 (Rome, 1891), 80–82.
5. O. De Biase, L’acqua del Serino: Sorgenti e acquedotti, Comunità MontanaSerinese (Manocalzati, 2006).
6. Ministero di Agricoltura, industria e commercio, Annuario statistico italiano1889–1990, 86.
7. Primarily because of the loss of the Papal States to the newly united Kingdomof Italy, Pius IX called upon Italian Catholics not to participate in parliamen-tary elections. This stance was captured in the slogan, “Non expedit—neitheras electors, nor as elected.”
8. C. Colombo, ed., Una casa per gli emigranti: 1907 Milano, l’Umanitaria e iservizi per l’emigrazione (Milan, 2007), 28.
9. Venditore di frittelle a Napoli, ca. 1900 (photograph), Alinari, ACAF-011657-0000; Venditori ambulanti di pannocchie e ortaggi a Napoli, ca.1890 (photograph), Alinari, ACA-F-11654A-0000; Venditrice di roccocò,tipico dolce napoletano, ca. 1900 (photograph), Alinari, ACA-F-011654-0000;G. Brogi, Maccheronaio di Napoli fotografato insieme ad un gruppo di ragazzi,1879–1910 (photograph), Alinari, BGA-F-010458-0000.
10. F. La Cecla, La pasta e la pizza (Bologna, 1998), 41–42.11. Ministero di Agricoltura, industria e commercio, Annuario statistico italiano
1889–1990, 84–85.12. Colombo, Una casa per gli emigranti, 28.13. The description of this meal is based on documents in the Historical Archives
of the Società Umanitaria of Milan, especially those pertaining to the Schoolof Home Economics (relationships and school programs; recipes, includingthe one described here; running costs; etc.); the files on the inquiries aboutthe working-class diet; the “Social Museum”; and the dietary situation duringthe First World War. The description of the house is based on documentsabout a working-class quarter of Milan; see also Quando l’Umanitaria era invia Solari: 1906: Il primo quartiere operaio (Milan, 2006).
14. D. Roche, Storia delle cose banali: La nascita del consumo in Occidente (1997;Rome, 2002), 164–74.
15. M. Eliade, Miti, sogni, misteri (1957; Turin, 2007), 75–76. On domestic tech-nology, see A. Drouard and J. Williot, Histoire des innovations alimentaires:XIXe et XXe siecles (Paris, 2007).
16. See the description of this meal, including the various dishes, the quantities,and the relative costs in the Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4:School of Domestic Economics in Milan and beyond, f. School of Domes-tic Economics/collection of reports, registers, etc., itemized list of the tenthweek, dated Thursday, May 25.
17. Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4, Register of the DomesticEducation High School Course, November 3 to December 30, 1911.
18. Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4, report by E. Salvi, Decem-ber 13, 1919.
19. Ibid.20. J. M. Kim, “Nutrition and the Decline of Mortality,” in The Cambridge World
History of Food, ed. K. F. Kiple and K. Coneè Ornelas (Cambridge, 2000), 2:1381–89.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 3 229
21. T. McKeown, The Modern Rise of Population (London, 1976).22. K. F. Kiple, ed., The Cambridge World History of Human Disease (Cambridge,
1993).23. A new interpretation of Italian demography is in C. Ipsen, Italy in the Age
of Pinocchio: Children and Danger in the Liberal Era (New York, 2006)and idem, Dictating Demography: The Problem of Population in Fascist Italy(Cambridge, 1996).
24. G. Ballarini, Storia, miti e identità della Cucina parmigiana (Parma, 2007),397–98.
25. On the history and symbolism of the pig, see M. Pastoreau, Il maiale: Storiadi un cugino poco amato (2009; Milano, 2014).
26. See the corresponding entries in P. Gho, ed., Dizionario delle cucine regionaliitaliane (Bra, 2008).
27. Ministero di Agricoltura, industria e commercio, Annuario statistico italiano1889–1890, 85.
28. S. Asaro et al., eds., Salumi d’Italia: Guida alla scoperta e alla conoscenza (Bra,2007).
29. P. Gho, ed., Dizionario delle cucine regionali italiane, 21.30. F. Birri and C. Coco, Nel segno del baccalà (Venice, 1997); N. Orengo, Il salto
dell’acciuga (Turin, 2003).31. P. Scarpi, Il senso del cibo (Palermo, 2005), 54–56.32. F. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi (Milan, 1970), 44, 47, and 49. The
adulteration of food was a very common problem at that time, from theaddition of extraneous substances to flour and bread (above all alum) andthe dilution of milk, not to mention old and badly preserved foods or fraudregarding weights and measures.
33. S. Somogyi, “Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia (1857–1956),” in Annali(Milan, 1959), 150–51 (investigations carried out between 1882 and 1902).
34. Ibid., 154–55 (investigation by A. Minozzi, 1896).35. G. Lombroso, “Sulle condizioni sociali economiche degli operai in un sob-
borgo di Torino,” La riforma sociale, September 10, 1896; D. Dolza,Essere figlie di Lombroso: Due donne intellettuali tra ’800 e ’900 (Milan,1990).
36. Somogyi, Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia, 146–49.37. A. Pugliese, Il bilancio alimentare di 51 famiglie operaie milanesi (Milan,
1914), 15–30.38. P. Sorcinelli, “Identification Process at Work: Virtues of the Italian Working-
Class Diet in the First Half of the Twentieth Century,” in Food, Drink andIdentity: Cooking, Eating and Drinking in Europe since the Middle Ages, ed.P. Scholliers (Oxford, 2001), 82–84; P. Sorcinelli, Gli italiani e il cibo: Dallapolenta ai cracker (Milan, 1999).
39. R. Scola, Feeding the Victorian City: The Food Supply of Manchester, 1770–1870(Manchester, 1992), 259–66.
40. F. Engels, The Condition of the Working Class in England in 1844 (1845;Teddington, 2009), 66. For the situation of workers in the United Statesin the following decades, see K. L. Turner, How the Other Half Ate: A His-tory of Working-Class Meals at the Turn of the Century (Oakland, CA,2014).
41. S. Musso, Gli operai di Torino 1900–1920 (Milan, 1980), 23–56.42. Ibid., 47.
230 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 3
43. Pugliese, Il bilancio alimentare di 51 famiglie, 27; G. Vicarelli, Lavoro e mater-nità: studio etnico, clinico e sociale: malattie professionali e gravidanza (Turin,1914).
44. Pugliese, Il bilancio alimentare di 51 famiglie, 33.45. P. Bourdieu, La distinzione: Critica sociale del gusto (1979; Bologna, 1983),
188–203.46. R. Barthes, “Toward a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consump-
tion,” (1961), in Food and Culture: A Reader, ed. C. Counihan and P. VanEsterik (New York, 1997), 23–30; Barthes cites a 1934 study by P. Lazarsfeld.
47. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi, 22.48. C. Hua, Une société sans père ni mari: les Na de Chine (Paris, 1997).49. M. Foucault, Storia della sessualità, vol. 2, L’uso dei piaceri (1984; Milan,
2005), 103–6.50. H. Kamminga and A. Cunningham, “Introduction: The Science and Culture
of Nutrition, 1840–1940,” in The Science and Culture of Nutrition, 1840–1940, ed. H. Kamminga and A. Cunningham (Amsterdam, 1995), 1–11;M. Sorrentino and G. Vecchi, “Nutrizione,” in In ricchezza e in povertà: Ilbenessere degli italiani dall’Unità a oggi (Bologna, 2011), 5–24.
51. A. Niceforo, Italiani del Nord e Italiani del Sud (Turin, 1901), 163–70.52. A. Trova, “L’approvvigionamento alimentare dell’esercito italiano dall’Unità
alla seconda guerra mondiale,” in Storia d’Italia: Annali, vol. 13,L’alimentazione, ed. A. Capatti, A. De Bernardi, and A. Varni (Turin, 1998),497–513.
53. P. Albertoni, La fisiologia e la questione sociale (Bologna, 1900).54. Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4, School of Domestic Eco-
nomics in Milan and beyond, f. School of Domestic Economics/collectionof reports, registers, etc., Nozioni di alimentazione popolare [A. Pugliese,1916], 20.
55. G. Bertagnoni, “Cibo e lavoro. Una storia della ristorazione aziendale inItalia,” Storia e futuro, no. 13 (2007): 1–41; U. Thoms, “Industrial Canteensin Germany, 1850–1950,” in Eating Out in Europe: Picnics, Gourmet Diningand Snacks since the Late Eighteenth Century, ed. M. Jacobs and P. Scholliers(Oxford, 2003), 351–72.
56. Growing attention was also being paid to school meals because the pupilswould be the workers and citizens of tomorrow, as can be seen in the writingsof Maria Montessori and other scholars; for a practical example, see SocietàUmanitaria Historical Archive, b. 344/6, Istruzione: case dei bambini, 1915.
57. Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4, School of Domestic Eco-nomics in Milan and beyond, f. Domestic Education Course 1912, Holidaycourse in economics and domestic education, April–July 1912 (see alsoibid., section Società Umanitaria Historical Archive, b. 342/4, School ofDomestic Economics in Milan and beyond, f. School of Domestic Eco-nomics/Collection of reports, registers, 1915, undated report [March 31,1916]).
58. F. Anghelé, “Educare alla patria e alla politica: il discorso elettorale nell’Italialiberale,” in Patrioti si diventa: Luoghi e linguaggi di pedagogia patriotticanell’Italia unita, ed. A. Arisi Rota, M. Ferrari, and M. Morandi (Milan,2009), 131–33.
59. See the selection of historical menus in M. Campiverdi, ed., Arte e storia atavola: Due secoli di menu (Rome, 2003); a copious collection of “Liste di
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 4 231
vivande” (List of foods) can be seen at the Civica raccolta stampe BertarelliArchive in Milan.
60. G. Federico, “Il valore aggiunto dell’agricoltura,” in I conti economicidell’Italia, vol. 2, Una stima del valore aggiunto per il 1911, ed. G. M. Rey(Rome, 1992), 4–10.
61. Italian National Institute of Statistics (hereafter: ISTAT), Sommario di statis-tiche storiche dell’Italia 1861–1975 (Rome, 1976), 117–18. The data show amassive increase in wheat imports during Giolitti’s tenure in order to satisfythe growing demand.
62. G. M. Rey, “Novità e conferme nell’analisi dello sviluppo economico italiano,”in I conti economici dell’Italia, vol. 3, Il conto risorse e impieghi (1891, 1911,1938, 1951), ed. G. M. Rey (Rome, 2003), xlv.
63. Novità e conferme, xxxvii.64. F. Chiapparino and R. Covino, Consumi e industria alimentare in Italia
dall’Unità a oggi (Perugia, 2002), 31–80; Scarpellini, Material Nation,56–66.
65. M. R. Finlay, “Early Marketing of the Theory of Nutrition: The Scienceand Culture of Liebig’s Extract of Meat,” in Science and Culture of Nutri-tion, 1840–1940, ed. H. Kamminga and A. Cunningham (Amsterdam, 1995),48–66.
66. G. Pedrocco, “La conservazione del cibo: dal sale all’industria agro-alimentare,” in Storia d’Italia: Annali, vol. 13, L’alimentazione, 433–43.
67. B. Avesani, F. Zanini, Quando il freddo era una risorsa: La produzione e il com-mercio di ghiaccio naturale a Cerro Veronese e in Lessinia (Bosco Chiesanuova,1990).
68. Una ghiacciaiola di Malandrone, sull’Appennino Pistoiese, ca. 1930 (photo-graph), Alinari, ACA-F-030815-0000.
69. M. Alberini, Storia del pranzo all’italiana: Dal triclinio allo snack (Milan,1966), 243.
Chapter 4
1. F. T. Marinetti and Fillìa, La cucina futurista (Milan, 1932), 183–85.2. C. Novero, Antidiets of the Avant-Garde: From Futurist Cooking to Eat Art
(Minneapolis, MN, 2010), 1–52.3. L. Clerici, “Introduzione,” in Il ghiottone errante: Viaggio gastronomico
attraverso l’Italia, ed. P. Monelli (1931; Milan, 2005), 7–18.4. M. C. Dentoni, Annona e consenso in Italia, 1914–1919 (Milan, 1995),
167–75.5. C. Helstosky, Garlic and Oil: Food and Politics in Italy (Oxford, 2004),
39–61.6. M. C. Dentoni, “Refrigeration and the Italian Meat Crisis During the First
World War,” in The Landscape of Food: The Food Relationship of Town andCountry in Modern Times, ed. M. Hietala and T. Vahtikari (Helsinki, 2003),157–70.
7. Dentoni, Annona e consenso in Italia.8. See, for example, the didactic-propaganda documentary of the Istituto Luce,
La battaglia del grano (Italy, 1925), in Archivio storico Luce, Rome (here-after: Luce), visible, like all other sources cited from this archive, at http://www.archivioluce.com.
232 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 4
9. The meal is reconstructed on the basis of interviews conducted by GiuseppinaIncalza in Rome in March and April 2011, following the author’s indications.In particular, the family described and the events narrated are based on theaccounts of the sisters Rosa, Anna, and Antonietta D., born respectively in1932, 1936, and 1943 (interviewed on March 17, 2011), unless otherwisestated. Further details about Rome during the Fascist period are taken fromA. Portelli et al., Città di parole: Storia orale di una periferia romana (Rome,2006); A. Clementine and F. Perego, eds., La metropoli “spontanea”: Il casodi Roma 1925–1981: sviluppo residenziale di una città dentro e fuori dal piano(Bari, 1983); and V. Vidotto, Roma contemporanea (Rome, 2001).
10. Interview with Anna Maria M., born in 1936 (March 7, 2011).11. Interview with Carlo C., born in 1926 (March 10, 2011).12. Interview with Antonietta D.13. Interview with Antonio T., born in 1935 (March 7, 2011).14. Interview with Anna Maria M.; interview with Grazia Di G., born in 1935
(March 9, 2011).15. Interview with Fiammetta F., born in 1934 (March 10, 2011).16. Interview with Anna D.17. Interview with Anna Maria M.18. Interview with Antonio T.19. Ibid.20. Interview with Grazia Di G.21. Interview with Rosa, Anna, and Antonietta D.22. Giornale Luce B0603, La coltivazione delle banane (Italy and Somalia, January
1935), Luce.23. G. Mazzoleni, Miti e leggende dell’Africa nera (Rome, 1988), 112–13.24. Luce newsreel entitled “Cronache dell’Impero CI003” (Harar-Baccà, 1937),
Luce.25. M. Paradisi, “Il commercio estero e la struttura industriale,” in L’economia
italiana nel periodo fascista, ed. P. Ciocca and G. Toniolo (Bologna, 1976),308–10.
26. G. Abbattista, “Torino 1884: Africani in mostra,” Contemporanea 7, no. 3(August, 2004): 369–409.
27. The menus served on the Rex are an interesting example of upscale Italiancuisine with some international additions. The lunch served on board onOctober 4, 1932, for example, began with mixed hors d’oeuvre (ham, sar-dines on toast, tuna and tomato, eggs alla zingara, green olives), thenconsommé, concentrated croûte au pot, Italian-style soup, Brussels sproutspuree or spaghetti with butter or tomato sauce; followed by stone bass filletsand sole supreme or beef entrecote, glazed veal rosettes, pigeon in compoteor Bresse chicken on the spit with various side dishes; the cold buffet includedturkey, veal loin, corned tongue, cooked ham, a quarter of lamb, roast beef,pig’s trotter, as well as salads; and then ice cream of various flavors, Rosad’Alpi cake, Santa Chiara cream, small hazelnut cakes, fruit salads and fruitpreserves, cheeses (above all Italian and French), fresh fruit, and coffee (F.Manetti, Pranzi a corte e sul Rex: Alcuni menu ritrovati [Pitigliano, 2007],on the page “Pranzo 4 ottobre 1932—Anno X”).
28. M. G. Battistini and I. Putini, eds., People: Il catalogo degli umani tra ’800 e’900 (Modena, 2009), 230.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 4 233
29. N. Bancel et al., eds., Zoo umani: Dalla Venere ottentotta ai reality show (2002;Verona, 2003).
30. Italiani a tavola nelle immagini fotografiche della Biblioteca Vallicelliana(1870–1970), digital version of the exhibition held in Rome in 2003, http://www.internetculturale.it/opencms/opencms/it/pagine/mostre/pagina_163.html, photograph A188, anonymous, 1930s.
31. Italiani a tavola nelle immagini fotografiche della Biblioteca Vallicelliana,photograph A29, anonymous, early twentieth century.
32. Letter quoted in G. Dore, Scritture di colonia: Lettere di Pia Maria Pezzolidall’Africa orientale a Bologna (1936–1943) (Bologna, 2004), 34; zighinì is astew seasoned with berberè served on a spongy bread called injera.
33. Letter written in Addi Caièh on October 21, 1936, quoted in Dore, Scritturedi colonia, 107.
34. Letter quoted in Dore, Scritture di colonia, 124–25.35. Ibid., 130.36. J. Goody, “Il cibo dell’Africa nella cultura ‘bianca’ e nella cultura ‘nera’,” in
M. Montanari, ed., Il mondo in cucina (Rome, 2006), 105–19.37. R. Earle, “ ‘If you eat their food . . .’: Diets and Bodies in Early Colonial
Spanish America,” American Historical Review 115, no. 3 (June, 2010):688–713.
38. A. Kifleyesus, “The Construction of Ethiopian National Cuisine,” Ethnorêma2 (2006): 27–47.
39. G. Dore, “Per un repertorio degli stili alimentari nell’altopiano etiopico:Note su commensalità, divisione, spartizione e gerarchie sociali,” Ethnorêma2 (2006): 1–25.
40. Ibid., 5.41. A. Maddison, “Historical Statistics for the World Economy: 1–2008 AD,”
Excel spreadsheet, 2010 version, Maddison’s homepage, Groningen Growthand Development Center, http://www.ggdc.net/maddison/oriindex.htm.These figures are in 1990 International Geary-Kharnis dollars. The populationfigures are from ISTAT.
42. S. Somogyi, “Cento anni di bilanci familiari in Italia (1857–1956),” in Annali(Milan, 1959), 196–98 (investigation by V. Cao-Pinna).
43. Ibid., 182–87 (the Inea investigation).44. Ibid., 199–200 (investigation by A. Costanzo).45. F. Chiapparino and R. Covino, Consumi e industria alimentare in Italia
dall’Unità a oggi: Lineamenti per una storia (Perugia, 2002), 19–25;A. Nützenadel, “Dictating Food: Autarchy, Food Provision, and ConsumerPolitics in Fascist Italy, 1922–1943,” in Food and Conflict in Europe in the Ageof the Two World Wars, ed. F. Trentmann and F. Just (Basingstoke, 2006).
46. Ibid., 81–90.47. G. Belli, ed., Depero pubblicitario: Dall’auto-réclame all’architettura pubblici-
taria (Milan, 2007).48. R. Chiarini and M. Cuzzi, eds., Vivere al tempo della Repubblica sociale
italiana (Roccafranca, 2007).49. V. Zamagni, La distribuzione commerciale in Italia fra le due guerre (Milan,
1981), 17, 89–97.50. Marinetti and Fillìa, La cucina futurista, 247–52.51. V. De Grazia, Le donne nel regime fascista (1992; Venice, 1997).
234 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 4
52. D. Forgacs and S. Gundle, Cultura di massa e società italiana 1936–1954(Bologna, 2007), 97–102, 111–12.
53. There is a very large collection of advertising images in the Raccolta dellestampe “Achille Bertarelli” at the Museo del Castello Sforzesco di Milano;other images, including digital ones, can be seen on the website of the Mass-imo and Sonia Cirulli Archive, New York, http://www.cirulliarchive.org.
54. I. Ghersi, Ricettario domestico, 7th ed. (1906; Milan, 1920), 920, 99, 269,and 909, respectively.
55. O. Guerrini, L’arte di utilizzare gli avanzi della mensa (Rome, 1918).56. L. Morelli, Il nuovo ricettario domestico: Enciclopedia moderna per la casa
(Milan, 1935).57. [A. Moretti Foggia], Ricette di Petronilla (1935; Milan, 1943), 6–7.58. G. Germani, Sociologia della modernizzazione: L’esperienza dell’America
Latina (Rome, 1971), 86–90; De Grazia, Le donne nel regime fascista.59. S. Kuznets, Modern Economic Growth: Rate, Structure, and Spread (New
Haven, CT, 1966).60. M. Rothschild and J. E. Stiglitz, “Equilibrium in Competitive Insurance
Markets: An Essay on the Economics of Imperfect Information,” QuarterlyJournal of Economics 90, no. 4 (November 1976): 629–49.
61. G. M. Rey, “I conti economici dell’Italia,” in I conti economici dell’Italia,vol. I, Una sintesi delle fonti ufficiali 1890–1970, ed. G. M. Rey (Rome,1991), 31–36.
62. Y. Bonnefois, ed., Asian Mythologies (1981; Chicago, IL 1993), 224.63. These and the following data are taken from ISTAT; see I conti economici
dell’Italia, vol. 1, Una sintesi delle fonti ufficiali.64. H. Lu et al., “Culinary Archaeology: Millet Noodles in Late Neolithic China,”
Nature 437 (October 13, 2005): 967–68.65. M. Montanari, La fame e l’abbondanza: Storia dell’alimentazione in Europa
(Rome, 1993), 175–80.66. D. Paolini, ed., Enciclopedia dei prodotti tipici d’Italia (Milan, 2005), 222–25,
236–43, and 331–36.67. Genepesca (= Compagnia generale della grande pesca) was founded in
Rome in 1935; it commissioned one of Roberto Rossellini’s first films, thedocumentary Fantasia sottomarina, shot in 1939 in Ladispoli.
68. C. Levi, Cristo si è fermato a Eboli (1945; Turin, 1963), 19.69. Ibid., 67.70. H. Scheub, A Dictionary of African Mythology: The Mythmaker as Storyteller
(New York, 2000), 175–76.71. Rey, I conti economici dell’Italia, 31.72. S. Bellei, Cucina autarchica e del tempo di guerra (Finale Emilia, 2007),
38–39.73. B. Stefani, Orti di guerra a Milano, Milan, 1939, TCCF-003757-0000,
Alinari; Orti di guerra in via dell’Impero a Roma, Rome, 1942, AILS-000595–0064, Alinari.
74. D. Parvis, “Studi sull’alimentazione di una collettività femminile a dietaridotta per esigenze di guerra,” Archivio dell’Istituto biochimico italiano, 2,1943, 5–6. The values referred to are taken from a 1925 study which cal-culated the daily calorie requirements of each nation as follows: Japan 2553,Italy 2612, Russia 2666, Germany 2770, Austria 2825, France 2973, England2997, the United States 3308, Central America 2763 (ibid., 5).
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 5 235
75. On the providences of wartime, see Luce Newsreel C0401, Aosta—La vita inun villaggio per gli sfollati, June 24, 1944, Luce.
76. H. Berghoff, “Enticement and Deprivation: The Regulation of Consump-tion in Pre-War Nazi Germany,” in The Politics of Consumption: MaterialCulture and Citizenship in Europe and America, ed. M. Daunton andM. Hilton (Oxford, 2001), 165–84; S. J. Wiesen, Creating the Nazi Mar-ketplace (Cambridge, 2011); P. Swett, Selling under the Swastika: Advertisingand Commercial Culture in Nazi Germany (Stanford, 2013).
77. Archivio di Stato di Milano, Gabinetto di Prefettura II serie, b. 535, UfficioProvinciale del Lavoro di Milano, “Breve relazione sulla situazione economicadi Milano e provincia,” March, 1946, 18.
Chapter 5
1. I. Calvino, “L’avventura di due sposi,” in idem, Racconti (Turin, 1958),394–97, quotes 394 and 397 respectively.
2. Regarding the data cited, see ISTAT, Sommario di statistiche storiche dell’Italia1861–1975 (Rome, 1976); and A. Maddison, Historical Statistics for the WorldEconomy: Per Capita GDP (1990 International Geary-Kharnis dollars), atwww.ggdc.net/maddison. For a general overview, see G. Crainz, Storia delmiracolo economico: Culture, identità, trasformazioni fra anni cinquanta esessanta (Rome, 1996).
3. See the original records in L’Archivio storico della Camera dei deputati,Rome; P. Braghin, ed., Inchiesta sulla miseria in Italia (Turin, 1978).
4. “Inchiesta parlamentare sulla miseria in Italia,” directed by G. Ferroni (Italy,1953), Luce.
5. C. M. Lomartire, ’O comandante: Vita di Achille Lauro (Milan, 2009).6. Istituto centrale di statistica, Indagine nazionale sui bilanci di famiglie non
agricole (Rome, 1959).7. See the results of R. Bozzuffi’s inquiry in S. Somogyi, Cento anni di bilanci
familiari in Italia (1857–1956), Annali (Milan, 1959), 233–39.8. G. Bocca, Miracolo all’italiana (Milan, 1962); L. Mastronardi, Il meridionale
di Vigevano (Turin, 1964); L. Bianciardi, La vita agra (Milan, 1962);G. Piovene, Viaggio in Italia (Milan, 1957); M. Soldati, Vino al vino(Milan, 1969); and Viaggio nella Valle del Po (RAI television show), directedby M. Soldati (Italy, 1957), available at http://www.rai.tv/dl/RaiTV/programmi/page/Page-0a794fdf-faf1-4ef9-9ba5-74f91b9a19e7.html.
9. P. Luzzatto Fegiz, Il volto sconosciuto dell’Italia: Seconda serie 1956–1965(Milan, 1966), 305–8.
10. “La donna d’oggi,” La cucina italiana, November 1958, 1000.11. Advertisement for Pan saucepans in La cucina italiana, October 1958.12. Advertisement for Coca Cola in La cucina italiana, October 1958.13. [C. Rosselli], Il saper vivere di Donna Letizia (1960; Milan, 2007), 104. The
author became famous by writing for magazines like Grazia and later Gente.14. Ibid., 116.15. Ibid., 214, 148.16. La dolce vita, directed by F. Fellini (Italy, 1960); Ro.Go.Pa.G. (four-part film),
directed by J.-L. Godard et al. (Italy and France, 1963).
236 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 5
17. The material for the reconstruction of this meal comes from the interviewwith Celestina L., born in 1939, conducted by Enrico Miletto in Turin onApril 12, 2011, following the author’s indications. Further elements regardingTurin in that period are taken from V. Castronovo, Torino (Rome, 1987);G. Fofi, L’immigrazione meridionale a Torino (Milan, 1964); and P. Cortiand M. Sanfilippo, eds., Storia d’Italia. Annali, vol. 24, Migrazioni (Turin,2009).
18. Castronovo, Torino, 364.19. Celestina L., interview; all quotations in this section are taken from this
interview.20. Ibid.21. Ibid.22. Ibid.23. Ibid.24. Ibid.25. J. D. Holtzman, “Food and Memory,” Annual Review of Anthropology 35
(2006): 361–78.26. Celestina L., interview.27. Ibid.28. Ibid.29. Ibid.30. This section and the next one also draw on the interviews collected in
the investigation of food and dietary habits conducted by the authorin 2009 using directed interviews, oral accounts, and semi-structuredquestionnaires.
31. C. D’Apice, L’arcipelago dei consumi: Consumi e redditi delle famiglie in Italiadal dopoguerra ad oggi (Bari, 1981), 53, 96, 144 (the data are from studiesby the Bank of Italy in 1966 and 1975). For an analysis of the spread ofhousehold electrical appliances and their cultural significance, see Scarpellini,Material Nation, 145–51.
32. R. Oldenziel and K. Zachmann, eds., Cold War Kitchen: Americanization,Technology, and European Users (Cambridge, 2009); J. Freeman, The Makingof the Modern Kitchen (Oxford, 2004), 25–54.
33. B. Angeletti, “La cucina del ‘2000’,” La cucina italiana, May 1957, 400.34. “Un appartamento per quattro persone,” Domus, no. 262, October 1951,
n.p.; “Particolari d’interni,” Domus, no. 322, September 1956, n.p.; and, forCastiglioni and Magistretti’s proposals, “La casa abitata,” Domus, no. 428,May 1965, n.p.
35. “Nuovi mobili italiani new Italian design,” Domus, no. 432, November 1965,n.p.
36. F. Zurlo, Makio Hasuike (Milan, 2003).37. A. Rosselli, “Domus, l’arte nella produzione industriale,” Domus, no. 269,
April 1952, n.p.; “Colore e funzionalità dei materiali plastici nella casa,”Domus, no. 290, January 1954, n.p.; G. Ponti, “Interesse americano perl’Italia,” Domus, no. 292, March 1954, n.p.; “A ‘Design Competition forItaly’,” Domus, no. 375, February 1961, n.p.
38. For the calculation of the costs, as well as the layout and the dimensions ofthe kitchen described, see A. M. Bonchieri, “Il costo della casa: La cucina,” Lacucina italiana, February 1957, 126–28. By way of comparison, a Fiat 500 in
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 5 237
1957 cost 485,000 lire and a lower-tier Fiat employ earned about 400,000annually.
39. V. Balloni, Origini, sviluppo e maturità dell’industria degli elettrodomestici(Bologna, 1978), 225.
40. G. S. Becker, “A Theory of the Allocation of Time,” Economic Journal 75(1965): 493–517.
41. Balloni, Origini, sviluppo e maturità, 225–27.42. R. Schwartz Cowan, More Work for Mother: The Ironies of Household Technology
from the Open Hearth to the Microwave (New York, 1983).43. Saturday Evening Post, August 15, 1959, cover.44. P. Sylos Labini, Saggio sulle classi sociali (Rome, 1974), 155–56.45. J. Mokyr, “Why Was there More Work for Mother? Knowledge and House-
hold Behavior, 1870–1945,” Journal of Economic History 60, no. 1 (March,2000): 1–40. See also S. Hoy, Chasing Dirt: The American Pursuit ofCleanliness (New York, 1995).
46. These and the following data are taken from ISTAT, Sommario di statistichestoriche.
47. A. Beardsworth and T. Keil, eds., Sociology of the Menu (London, 1997),242–53.
48. A. James, “The Good, the Bad and the Delicious: The Role of Confectioneryin British Society,” The Sociological Review 38, no. 4 (November, 1990):666–88.
49. P. Rozin, “Sweetness, Sensuality, Sin, Safety and Socialization: Some Specula-tions,” in Sweetness, ed. J. Dobbing (London, 1987), 99–111.
50. S. W. Mintz, Storia dello zucchero: Tra politica e cultura (1985; Turin, 1990).51. V. Bordo and A. Surrusca, eds., L’Italia dei dolci (Bra, 2003).52. G. M. Rey, ed., I conti economici dell’Italia, vol. 1, Una sintesi delle fonti
ufficiali 1890–1970 (Rome, 1991), 20–22, 31–36; and idem, vol. 3, Il contorisorse e impieghi (1891, 1911, 1938, 1951) (Rome, 2003), xlv, 256–57.
53. L. Sicca, L’industria alimentare in Italia (Bologna, 1977), 34–63.54. Sicca, L’industria alimentare in Italia, 46; G. Gallo, R. Covino, and
R. Monicchia, Crescita, crisi, riorganizzazione: L’industria alimentare daldopoguerra a oggi, in Storia d’Italia: Annali, vol. 13, L’alimentazione, ed.A. Capatti, A. De Bernardi, and A. Varni (Turin, 1998), 312–16.
55. V. Castronovo, L’Italia del miracolo economico (Rome, 2010), 127–34; A.Cardini, ed., Il miracolo economico italiano (1958–1963) (Bologna, 2006).
56. Sicca, L’industria alimentare in Italia, 74–79.57. C. M. Counihan, The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning, and
Power (London, 1999), 25–42.58. A. P. den Hartog, “The Making of Health Biscuits: Interaction Between
Nutritional Sciences and Industrial Interests,” in Order and Disorder: TheHealth Implications of Eating and Drinking in the Nineteenth and TwentiethCenturies (East Linton, 2000), 313.
59. Pavesi soda crackers advertising poster, 1956.60. P. Camporesi, La terra e la luna: Alimentazione folclore società (Milan, 1989),
237–38.61. On the spread of fish sticks in Europe, see P. R. Josephson, “The Ocean’s Hot
Dog: The Development of the Fish Stick,” Technology and Culture 49, no. 1(January 2008): 41–61.
238 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 5
62. See, for example, P. Roversi, “Le carni in scatola,” La cucina italiana, March1955, 119.
63. L. Ballio and A. Zanacchi, eds., Carosello story: La via italiana alla pubblicitàtelevisiva (Rome, 2008); G. Croce, ed., Tutto il meglio di Carosello (1957–1977) (Turin, 2008).
64. A. Arvidsson, Marketing Modernity: Italian Advertising from Fascism toPostmodernity (London, 2003); D. Pittèri, La pubblicità in Italia: Daldopoguerra a oggi (Rome, 2002); L. Minestroni, Casa dolce casa: Storiadello spazio domestico tra pubblicità e società (Milan, 1996); G. Jones andN. J. Morgan, eds., Adding Value: Brands and Marketing in Food and Drink(London, 1994); H. Berghoff, P. Scranton, and U. Spiekermann, eds., TheRise of Marketing and Market Research (New York, 2012). Regarding chil-dren’s foods, see A. Bentley, “Inventing Baby Food: Gerber and the Discourseof Infancy in the United States,” in Food Nation: Selling Taste in ConsumerSocieties, ed. W. Belasco and P. Scranton (London, 2002), 92–112; A. Bentley,Inventing Baby Food: Taste, Health, and the Industrialization of the AmericanDiet (Oakland, CA, 2014).
65. E. Scarpellini, La spesa é uguale per tutti: L’avventura dei supermercati inItalia (Venice, 2007).
66. P. Lummel, “Born-in-the-City: The Supermarkets in Germany,” in Food andthe City in Europe since 1800, ed. P. J. Atkins, P. Lummel, and D. J. Oddy(Aldershot, 2007), 165–76; U. Spiekermann, “Rationalisation as a PermanentTask: The German Food Retail Trade in the Twentieth Century,” in FoodTechnology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in the Twentieth Century,ed. A. P. den Hartog (East Linton, 1995), 200–20; D. J. Oddy, “From CornerShop to Supermarket: The Revolution in Food Retailing in Britain, 1932–1992,” in Food Technology, ed. Oddy, 187–99; W. Belasco and R. Horowitz,eds., Food Chains: From Farmyard to Shopping Cart (Philadelphia, PA, 2009);R. Jessen and L. Langer, eds., Transformations of Retailing in Europe after1945 (Farnam, 2012).
67. E. Scarpellini, Comprare all’americana: Le origini della rivoluzione commer-ciale in Italia 1945–1971 (Bologna, 2001), 334, 340 (data from Aigid, theItalian Association of Large Distribution Companies, and ISTAT).
68. Regarding the consumption of products like margarine and stock cubes, seeLuzzatto Fegiz, Il volto sconosciuto dell’Italia: Seconda serie, 62–65 (mar-garine consumption, 1957–1959) and 74–76 (consumption of margarine andproducts to make broths, 1961).
69. E. D. Inandiak, I canti dell’isola tra terra e cielo: Il libro di Centhini (2002;Milan, 2009), canto 3.
70. See, for example, F. Pastonchi, “Natale,” La cucina italiana, December1953; “Vivere nella tradizione: Natale,” La cucina italiana, December 1961;C. Zambonini, “Gastronomia quaresimale,” La cucina italiana, March 1958;M. Alberini, “Fronde d’ulivo e rami di palma,” La cucina italiana, April 1956;“Giornata della madre,” La cucina italiana, May 1955.
71. F. Rigotti, La gola: La passione dell’ingordigia (Bologna, 2008), 28–32.72. S. Colafranceschi, Autogrill: Una storia italiana (Bologna, 2007), 13–27.73. See the articles published monthly in La cucina italiana in 1957 as well
as E. Vizzari, “Il cammino dei ristoranti verso la qualità,” Speciale 70 anni,special issue of La cucina italiana (November 1999).
74. “Un bar all’italiana,” Domus, no. 376, March 1961.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 5 239
75. G. Bocca, “Le opinioni di un dilettante in cucina,” La cucina italiana (Febru-ary 1963); G. Bocca, “Dio mi guardi, all’estero, dagli osti italiani,” ibid.(March 1963); G. Bocca, “Mangiare male, ma con il cameriere,” ibid. (June1963).
76. E. Asquer et al., eds., Famiglie del Novecento: Conflitti, culture e relazioni(Rome, 2010); M. Casalini, Famiglie comuniste: Ideologie e vita quotidi-ana nell’Italia degli anni Cinquanta (Bologna, 2010); P. Willson, Italiane:Biografia del Novecento (Rome, 2011); S. Gundle, I comunisti italiani traHollywood e Mosca: La sfida della cultura di massa, 1943–1991 (Florence,1995).
77. A. Bravo, A colpi di cuore: Storie del sessantotto (Rome, 2008).78. M. Wildt, Am Beginn der “Konsumgesellschaft” (Hamburg, 1994); A.
Andersen, Der Traum vom guten Leben: Alltags- und Konsumgeschichte vomWirtschaftswunder bis heute (Frankfurt am Main, 1997); J. L. Logemann,Trams or Tailfins? Public and Private Prosperity in Postwar West Germany andthe United States (Chicago, IL, 2012); H. G. Haupt, Konsum und Handel:Europa im 19. und 20. Jahrhundert (Göttingen, 2003).
79. P. Bernhard, “La pizza sul Reno: Per una storia della cucina e dellagastronomia italiane in Germania nel XX secolo,” Memoria e ricerca 23(2006): 63–72.
80. G. Corbi and L. Zanetti, “L’asino nella bottiglia: Romanzo giallo dell’olio dioliva,” L’Espresso, June 22, 1958.
81. G. Corbi and L. Zanetti, “La balena spalmata sul pane: Il romanzo giallodel burro,” L’Espresso, June 29, 1958. Other articles about the investiga-tion published the same year in L’Espresso included “La fortuna di nascerecavallo” (July 20) and “Le saponette fantasma del commendator Camaggio”(August 3).
82. See other interesting L’Espresso articles from that year such as “La truffadell’olio” (July 6) and “Tempesta nell’ampolla” (July 13).
83. See the investigation conducted by Doxa (the most important Italian marketresearch company) in Luzzatto Fegiz, Il volto sconosciuto dell’Italia: Secondaserie, 1733–1739 (food fraud); and Truzzi’s intervention in the Chamberof Deputies, on October 3, 1962, in Atti Parlamentari, III Legislatura,Discussioni, 33959–61.
84. G. Nebbia, La società dei rifiuti (Bari, 1990), 148–50. Regarding the con-sumer movement in an international context, see M. Hilton, Prosperity forAll: Consumer Activism in an Era of Globalization (Ithaca, 2009). The firsttelevision program protecting consumers, broadcast from 1970 to 1973, wasfollowed by others presented by Rivelli on RAI television: Filo diretto: dallaparte del consumatore (1975–1980), I problemi del signor Rossi (1980–1985),and Il mercato del sabato (1986–1992).
85. Camporesi, La terra e la luna, 234–35. Because of the same need to safe-guard traditional gastronomic values, the Accademia italiana della cucina(Italian Academy of Cuisine) was set up in 1954 by the writer Orio Vergani,who was helped by artists, entrepreneurs, and professionals, including DinoBuzzati, Arnoldo Mondadori, Giò Ponti, Dino Villani, and many others. SeeG. Franceschi and S. De Lorenzo, eds., Cinquant’anni di cultura e civiltàdella tavola (Milan, 2004).
86. Franceschi and Lorenzo, eds., Cinquant’anni.
240 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 6
87. For example, La cucina italiana published, for the centenary of Italian unity,a series of monographic guides on each Italian region, from January 1960 toSeptember 1961.
88. “La grande abbuffata,” directed by Marco Ferreri (France and Italy, 1973).
Chapter 6
1. A. Nove, “Hamburger lady fa la raccolta dei punti,” in Superwoobinda (Turin,1998), 123.
2. Ibid., 123–24.3. L. Hyde, Trickster Makes This World: Mischief, Myth, and Art (New York,
1998).4. M. Gervasoni, Storia d’Italia degli anni Ottanta: Quando eravamo moderni
(Venice, 2010), 9–18; S. Colarizi et al., eds., Gli anni Ottanta come storia(Soveria Mannelli, 2004).
5. ISTAT, Sommario di statistiche storiche 1926–1985 (Rome, 1986), 176; idem,I consumi delle famiglie. Anno 1993, 22, 1994, 10.
6. C. D’Apice, L’arcipelago dei consumi: Consumi e redditi delle famiglie in Italiadal dopoguerra ad oggi (Bari, 1981); G. Maione, “Spesa pubblica o consumiprivati? Verso una reinterpretazione dell’economia italiana postbellica,” Italiacontemporanea, 231 (June, 2003).
7. Entrata dell’Autostrada del Sole a Lodi, January 1959 (photograph), Alinari,TCI-S-007827-AR03.
8. G. Moroldo, Traffico di Tir sulle autostrade italiane, 1979 (photograph),Alinari, RCS-S-E12684-0006 (collezione RCS).
9. P. P. Pasolini, “Limitatezza della storia e immensità del mondo contadino, 8luglio 1974 (Scritti corsari),” in Saggi sulla politica e sulla società, ed. W. Sitiand S. De Laude (Milan, 1999), 321.
10. G. Debord, La società dello spettacolo (1967 and 1988; Milan, 2008).11. There was also a film about Julia Child, starring Meryl Streep, Julie & Julia,
directed by N. Ephron (USA, 2009).12. P. Camporesi, La terra e la luna: Alimentazione folclore società (Milan, 1989),
220.13. P. Bourdieu, Sulla televisione (1996; Milan, 1997); J. Baudrillard, Il delitto
perfetto: la televisione ha ucciso la realtà? (1995; Milan, 1996); K. Popper,Cattiva maestra televisione (Venice, 1994).
14. This section is based on the interview of Dario L., born in 1962, conductedby Alfredo Mazzamauro and Elisabetta Morello at Costabissara (Vicenza)on June 9, 2011, following the author’s indications. Additional elementsabout the geography and history of the Northeast have been drawn fromI. Diamanti, ed., Idee del Nordest: Mappe, rappresentazioni, progetti (in partic-ular I. Diamanti, “Introduzione: Il Nordest fra costruzione e realtà”) (Turin,1998); G. L. Fontana, Mercanti, pionieri e capitani d’industria: Imprenditorie imprese nel Vicentino tra ’700 e ’900 (Vicenza, 1993); A. Bagnasco, Le treItalie (Bologna, 1977).
15. Dario L., interview.16. Ibid.17. Ibid.18. Ibid.
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 6 241
19. Ibid.20. Ibid.21. T. Faravelli Giacobone, P. Guidi, and A. Pansera, Dalla casa elettrica alla casa
elettronica: Storia e significato degli elettrodomestici (Milan, 1989), 89–107,131–33.
22. S. Schama, Il disagio dell’abbondanza: La cultura olandese dell’epoca d’oro(1987; Milan, 1993); P. Bourdieu, Per una teoria della pratica: Con tre studidi etnologia cabila (1972; Milan, 2003).
23. This was the “Progetto Galileo” (Galileo Project), promoted by Brandt Italia,BSH, Candy, Electrolux-Zanussi, Indesit, and Reckitt Benckiser (manufac-turer of the detergent Finish).
24. P. Bianucci, Le macchine invisibili (Milan, 2009), 49–53.25. ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie: Anno 1986, 16 (1988): 22.26. ISTAT, Sommario di statistiche storiche 1926–1985, 182–84.27. Ibid.28. S. A. Barzini, Così mangiavamo: Cinquant’anni di storia italiana fra tavola e
costume (Rome, 2006), 145–46.29. R. Oldenziel and M. Hård, Consumers, Tinkerers, Rebels: The People who
Shaped Europe (Basingstoke, 2013).30. J. Pinard, “The Development of Cheese Consumption in France in the Past
150 Years,” in Food Technology, Science and Marketing: European Diet in theTwentieth Century, ed. A. P. den Hartog (East Lindon, 1995), 117–26.
31. R. Rubino, P. Sardo, and A. Surrusca, eds., Formaggi d’Italia (Bra, 2009).32. F. Cunsolo, La gastronomia nei proverbi (Milan, 1970), 79.33. B. Gasperini [B. Robecchi], Il galateo (1975; Milan, 2010), 5.34. L. Sotis, Il nuovo bon ton (2005; Milan, 2010), 158 (the first edition of Bon
Ton was published in 1982).35. G. Turnaturi, Signore e signori d’Italia. Una storia delle buone maniere (Milan,
2011), 196–216.36. Joint investigation by Fipe-Confcommercio (Italian Federation of Com-
mercial Businesses–General Federation of Italian Commerce, Tourism, Ser-vices and Small and Medium-Sized Enterprises) on catering, September2004.
37. Fipe (Italian Federation of Commercial Businesses), L’Europa al ristorante,February 2011.
38. Mary Douglas, ed., Food in the Social Order: Studies of Food and Festivitiesin Three American Communities (New York, 1984) (above all the editor’s“Introduction”).
39. Italian Fast Food, directed by L. Gasparini, Italy, 1986.40. Pet Shop Boys [N. Tennant and C. Lowe], Paninaro, a song recorded in 1986
(and in a second version in 1995).41. R. Gianola and M. Resca, McDonald’s: una storia italiana (Milan, 1998);
T. Danilo, “McDonald’s si mangia Burghy,” Corriere della Sera, March 22,1996.
42. S. Mennel, All Manners of Food: Eating and Taste in England and France fromthe Middle Ages to the Present (Urbana, 1996), 163–65.
43. For an overall view see M. Liverani, “Rivoluzione neolitica,” in Enciclopediadelle Scienze sociali, Treccani.it, April 2011; M. Jones, Il pranzo della festa(2007; Milan, 2009), 170–72.
242 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 6
44. L. C. Aiello and P. Wheeler, “The Expensive-Tissue Hypothesis: The Brainand the Digestive System in Human and Primate Evolution,” CurrentAnthropology 36, no. 2 (April 1995): 199–21.
45. See Berghoff and Kühne, eds., Globalizing Beauty, and Annelie Ramsbrock,The Science of Beauty: Culture and Cosmetics in Modern Germany, 1750–1930(New York, 2015).
46. S. Gundle, Figure del desiderio. Storia della bellezza femminile italiana (Rome,2007), 236–54.
47. Gundle, Figure del desiderio, 402–3, 430–42.48. I. De Garine and N. J. Pollock, eds., Social Aspects of Obesity (Langhorne,
1995), 71–110.49. M. Montanari, La fame e l’abbondanza. Storia dell’alimentazione in Europa
(1993; Rome, 2005), 205–12; U. Thoms, “Consuming Bodies; TheCommodification and Technification of Slenderness in the Twentieth Cen-tury,” in Globalizing Beauty: Consumerism and Body Aesthetics in the TwentiethCentury, ed. H. Berghoff and T. Kühne (New York, 2013), 41–59.
50. See M. Foucault, Sorvegliare e punire: nascita della prigione (1975; Turin,1976).
51. C. W. Bynum, Sacro convivio, sacro digiuno: il significato religioso del ciboper le donne del Medioevo (1987; Milan, 2001). See also P. Rossi, Mangiare(Bologna, 2011), 131–38.
52. B. S. Turner, The Body and Society: Explorations in Social Theory (1984;London, 2004), 191–93.
53. Foucault, Sorvegliare e punire; M. G. Muzzarelli and F. Tarozzi, Donne e cibo(Milan, 2003).
54. J. Baudrillard, Simulacri e impostura. Bestie, Beaubourg, apparenze e altrioggetti (1978; Milan, 2008).
55. E. Arcaleni, “La statura dei coscritti italiani delle generazioni 1854–1976,”Bollettino di demografia storica, 29 (1998): 23–58; M. Livi Bacci, Popolazionee alimentazione: Saggio sulla storia demografica europea (Bologna, 1987);Annuari ISTAT, various years.
56. M. Ezzati et al., “National, Regional, and Global Trends in Body Mass Indexsince 1980: Systematic Analysis of Health Examination Surveys and Epi-demiological Studies with 960 Country-Years and 9.1 Million Participants,”Lancet, 377, 2011, 557–67.
57. P. Luzzatto Fegiz, Il volto sconosciuto dell’Italia: Seconda serie 1956–1965(Milan, 1966), 247–55, which cites surveys conducted in 1951, 1952, andabove all 1960.
58. ISTAT, Obesità e sovrappeso (Rome, 1999); Annuari Istat, various years.59. P. Bourdieu, La distinzione: Critica sociale del gusto (1979; Bologna, 1983),
188–200. For the connotation of masculinity, see F. Parasecoli, “FeedingHard Bodies: Food and Masculinities in Men’s Fitness Magazines,” (2005),in Food and Culture: A Reader, ed. C. Counihan and P. van Esterik (London,2008), 187–201.
60. E. Munch, Puberty (oil on canvass), 1895; F. Botero, Venus (oil on canvass),1989.
61. R. Wilk, Home Cooking in the Global Village: Caribbean Food from Buccaneersto Ecotourists (Oxford, 2006); A. Nützenadel and F. Trentmann, eds., Foodand Globalization: Consumption, Markets and Politics in the Modern World
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 7 243
(Oxford, 2008); L. Phillips, “Food and Globalization,” Annual Review ofAnthropology, 35 (October, 2006): 37–57.
62. D. Inglis and D. Gimlin, “Food Globalizations: Ironies and Ambivalences ofFood, Cuisine and Globality,” in The Globalization of Food, ed. D. Inglis andD. Gimlin (Oxford, 2009), 3–5.
63. R. Wagnleitner, Coca-Colonization and the Cold War: The Cultural Mission ofthe United States in Austria After the Second World War (Chapel Hill, NC,1994).
64. In rankings for 2008, among the 25 brands best known globally, the food oneswere Coca Cola in fifth place (after Pampers, Nokia, Microsoft, and Colgate),McDonald’s eighth (preceded by Nike and Sony) and Nescafè eleventh (pre-ceded by Adidas and IBM). See N. Hollis, The Global Brand: How to Createand Develop Lasting Brand Value in the World Market (New York, 2008), 48.
65. M. Foucault, L’archeologia del sapere (1969; Milan, 1994).66. On the umami taste, see O. G. Mouritsen and K. Styrbæk, Umami: Unlocking
the Secrets of the Fifth Taste (New York, 2014).67. The sources of these and the following data are the Annuari Istat, various
years.68. F. La Cecla, Il malinteso: Antropologia dell’incontro (Rome, 1997), 65–74; L.
Heldke, Exotic Appetites: Ruminations of a Food Adventurer (London, 2003).69. C. Geertz, Antropologia interpretativa (Bologna, 1988), 192.70. A. Capatti, “Cucina fusion,” in Atlante dell’alimentazione e della gastronomia,
ed. M. Montanari and F. Sabban, vol. II, Cucine, pasti, convivialità (Turin,2004), 842–59.
71. J. Goody, Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology(Cambridge, 1982), 97–153.
72. M. Freeman, “Sung,” in Food in Chinese Culture, ed. K. C. Chang (NewHaven, CT, 1977), 141–76. See also The Globalization of Chinese Food, ed.D. Y. H. Wu and S. C. H. Cheung (Richmond, 2002); T. O. Höllmann, TheLand of the Five Flavors: A Cultural History of Chinese Cuisine (New York,2013).
73. I. Cusack, “African Cuisines: Recipes for Nation-building?,” Journal ofAfrican Cultural Studies 13, no. 2 (December, 2000): 207–25.
74. A. Appadurai, “How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contempo-rary India,” Comparative Studies in Society and History 30, no. 1 (January,1988): 3–24.
75. M. C. Escher, Relativity (lithograph), 1953.
Chapter 7
1. Author’s summary of Under the Tuscan Sun, directed by A. Wells (USA,2003).
2. J. Clifford, Strade: Viaggio e traduzione alla fine del secolo XX (1997; Turin,1999), 25–53; A. Appadurai, Modernità in polvere (1996; Rome, 2001).
3. E. W. Said, Cultura e imperialismo: letteratura e consenso nel progetto colonialedell’Occidente (1993; Rome, 1998).
4. On income inequality in a more general context, see T. Piketty, Capital inthe Twenty-First Century (2013; Cambridge, 2014), and the debate after itspublication.
244 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 7
5. The description given here is based on interviews of Barbara M. and DarioC., conducted by Antonella Bonanno at Patti on May 3, 2011, followingthe author’s indications. Regarding the historical context of the Messinaprovince, see R. Battaglia, L’ultimo “splendore”: Messina tra rilancio e deca-denza (Soveria Mannelli, 2003); M. Aymard and G. Giarrizzo, eds., Storiad’Italia: Le regioni dall’Unità ad oggi, vol. 5, La Sicilia (Turin, 1987).
6. ISTAT, “La misurazione delle tipologie familiari nelle indagini dipopolazione,” Metodi e norme 46 (2010): 9–15.
7. ISTAT, Rapporto annuale: La situazione del Paese nel 2010 (Rome, 2011),175–92; C. M. Counihan, The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Mean-ing, and Power (London, 1999), 43–60 (regarding a case study in Florence);M. G. Muzzarelli and F. Tarozzi, Donne e cibo: Una relazione nella storia(Milan, 2003).
8. W. Benjamin, I “passages” di Parigi, ed. R. Tiedemann (1982; Turin, 2010),1:11.
9. F. Dei, “Oggetti domestici e stili familiari: Una ricerca sulla cultura materialetra famiglie toscane di classe media,” Etnografia e ricerca qualitativa 2 (May–August, 2009): 285.
10. M. Foucault, “Spazi altri” (1967), in Spazi altri: I luoghi delle eterotipie, ed.S. Vaccaro (Milan, 2001), 22.
11. Foucault, “Spazi altri,” 20–21.12. G. Viale, La civiltà del riuso: Riparare, riutilizzare, ridurre (Rome, 2011).13. L. Siragusa, L’energia del sole e dell’aria come generatrice di forme architet-
toniche (Padua, 2009); M. Moro, B. Spirandelli, La casa ecologica: Esempi diecosostenibilità nel mondo (Vercelli, 2011).
14. A. C. Clarke, I nove miliardi di nomi di Dio (1953; Rome, 2011).15. F. Neresini, Il nano-mondo che verrà: Verso la società nanotecnologica
(Bologna, 2011); see also the interesting specific reports about dietarynanotechnology commissioned by the British Food Standards Agency (e.g.,Assessment of the potential use of nanomaterials as food additives or food ingre-dients in relation to consumer safety and implication for regulatory controls, July2007).
16. Agricoltura 55 (February 2005) (data: ISTAT-Federalimentare): 56–57.17. C. Lévi-Strauss, Il pensiero selvaggio (1962; Milan, 1964).18. ISTAT, 8˚ Censimento generale dell’industria e dei servizi (Rome, 2001), 53.19. Federalimentare, Industria alimentare: I fatturati dei comparti 2006–2009
(Rome, 2010).20. Federalimentare, L’industria alimentare italiana: Le cifre di base (Rome,
2010).21. Mediobanca, Le principali società italiane (Rome, 2010).22. G. Gallo, R. Covino, and R. Monicchia, “Crescita, crisi, riorganizzazione.
L’industria alimentare dal dopoguerra a oggi,” in Storia d’Italia. Annali,vol. 13, L’alimentazione, ed. A. Capatti, A. De Bernardi, and A. Varni (Turin,1998), 283–324; L. Sicca, Lo straniero nel piatto: Internazionalizzazione ocolonizzazione del sistema alimentare italiano? (Milan, 2002), 104–17.
23. The Nielsen Company, Investimenti pubblicitari, January–February 2011.On advertising, see D. Pittèri, La pubblicità in Italia: Dal dopoguerra a oggi(Rome, 2002).
24. Global Powers of Retailing 2011, Deloitte.com.25. Federdistribuzione, Mappa del sistema distributivo italiano (Milan, 2010).
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 7 245
26. Global Powers of Retailing 2011, Deloitte.com; V. Zamagni, P. Battilani,and A. Casali, Centocinquanta anni di cooperazione di consumo (Bologna,2004); P. Battilani, “Perché il brutto anatroccolo non é diventato un cigno:la mancata trasformazione del settore distributivo italiano,” Imprese e storia33 (2006): 157–89; L. Pellegrini, Il commercio in Italia: Dalla bottegaall’ipermercato (Bologna, 2001).
27. Sicca, Lo straniero nel piatto, 15.28. ISTAT, 8˚ Censimento generale dell’industria e dei servizi, 29–30; G. Becattini,
Il distretto industriale: Un nuovo modo di interpretare il cambiamento eco-nomico (Turin, 2000).
29. M. E. Porter, Competitive Advantage of Nations (New York, 1990).30. Osservatorio nazionale dei distretti italiani, Distretti per settore 2011; idem,
II Rapporto (Mestre, 2011).31. Mediobanca, Indagine sul settore vinicolo (Milan, 2011), 28–39. The main
world groups in terms of revenues in 2010 were Constellation Brands (USA),Foster’s Group (Australia), Distell Group (South Africa), Vina Concha Y Toro(Chile), and Yantai Changyu Pioneer Wine (China).
32. L. Sotis, Il nuovo bon ton (Milan, 2005), 204–5.33. Il libro del vino (Rome, 2004); Vini d’Italia 2011 (Rome, 2011); P. Della
Rosa, L’Abc del vino (Milan, 2011); G. Piumatti and V. Manganelli, eds., TheArt of Italian Wine: Grapes, Wineries, Labels and Tasting Techniques (Bra,2010).
34. J. Bottéro, The Oldest Cuisine in the World: Cooking in Mesopotamia (2002;Chicago, 2004), 101–4.
35. A. Maddison, Historical Statistics for the World Economy: Per Capita GDP(1990 International Geary-Kharnis dollars), in www.ggdc.net/maddison,June 2, 2011.
36. ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie. Anno 1995, no. 2, 1996, 9; ISTAT, I consumidelle famiglie. Anno 2000, no. 7, 2002, 9; ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie.Anno 2009, no. 16, 2011, 11.
37. The average monthly income decreased slightly in 2012 and then again in2013, when it reached 2,359 euros. The amount of food expenditure wasnevertheless very similar (468 euros in 2012, 461 euros in 2013). See ISTAT,I consumi delle famiglie: Anno 2013 (Rome, 2014).
38. Banca d’Italia, Indagine conoscitiva sul livello dei redditi di lavoro nonché sullaredistribuzione della ricchezza in Italia nel periodo 1993–2008 (Rome, 2009),3–7.
39. ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie: Anno 2009, 11–16, 27–28 (also for thefollowing data). Nevertheless, it should be borne in mind that price levelsvaried according to region, reaching as much as 20% less in the South for thesame basket of products. See N. Amendola, G. Vecchi, and B. Al Kiswani,“Il costo della vita al Nord e al Sud d’Italia dal dopoguerra a oggi: Stimedi prima generazione,” MPRA Paper 23486, June 23, 2010, http://mpra.ub.uni-muenchen.de/23486/1/MPRA_paper_23486.pdf; N. Amendola andG. Vecchi, “Costo della vita,” in In ricchezza e in povertà: Il benessere degliitaliani dall’Unità a oggi, ed. G. Vecchi (Bologna, 2011), 404–9.
40. Svimez, Nord e Sud: Insieme nella crisi, divergenti nella ripresa (Rome, 2011);V. Daniele and P. Malanima, Il divario Nord-Sud in Italia 1861–2011 (SoveriaMannelli, 2011), 93–100.
41. ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie: Anno 2009, 17–21.
246 N ot e s to C h a p t e r 7
42. ISTAT, Rapporto annuale: La situazione del Paese nel 2010, 172–75. Depri-vation is indicated by at least three of the following parameters: (1) not beingable to meet unexpected expenses; (2) not being able to afford an annualweek’s vacation; (3) having short-term debts or being in arrears with mort-gage payments or rent or bills; (4) not being able to afford an adequate mealat least every two days; (5) not being able to heat one’s home sufficiently;(6) not owning a washing machine or television or telephone or car.
43. ISTAT, Le famiglie con stranieri: indicatori di disagio economico (Rome,2011), 1–2, 16.
44. L. Campiglio and G. Rovati, eds., La povertà alimentare in Italia: Primaindagine quantitativa e qualitativa (Milan, 2009), 237.
45. Interview of G. Fatouma, conducted by Michela Offredi at Madone (provinceof Bergamo) in January 2011. Thieboudienne is considered the Senegalesenational dish and consists of fish, rice, and tomato sauce; maffé is a stew ofmeat (lamb, beef, or chicken) and vegetables with a particular tomato andpeanut sauce; lakh is milk fermented with millet and fresh fruit; fondé is simi-lar, with curdled milk, millet, or corn. Ataya is tea, in fact, the three differenttypes of tea that end the meal with a complex preparation: the first is strongand bitter (usually reserved for men), the second is sweeter (for adult women),and the third is light and flavored with mint leaves (and is for everyone,including the children).
46. Interview of D. Abbs, conducted by Michela Offredi in Bergamo in Jan-uary 2011.
47. ISTAT, I consumi delle famiglie: Anno 2009, 29.48. Indagine sulle abitudini alimentari degli italiani Coldiretti/Swg, March 2011;
Gli immigrati nella ristorazione in Italia (indagine Fipe-Confcommercio),February 2011.
49. TNS Opinion & Social, Rischi associati agli alimenti, Eurobarometro speciale354 (Bruxelles, 2010), http://www.efsa.europa.eu/en/riskperception/docs/riskperceptionreport_it.pdf. See also A. Blay-Palmer, Food Fears: From Indus-trial to Sustainable Food Systems (Aldershot, 2008), 87–108.
50. OECD, ed., The Future of Food: Long-Term Prospects for the Agro-Food Sec-tor (Paris, 1998), http://www.oecd.org/futures/35391719.pdf; therein seeesp. G. Paillotin, “The Impact of Biotechnology on the Agro-Food Sector,”71–89.
51. L. T. Evans, Feeding the Ten Billion: Plants and Population Growth(Cambridge, UK, 1998).
52. Global Footprint Network, Ecological Footprint Atlas 2010 (Oakland, CA,2010).
53. H. Daly and J. Cobb, For the Common Good: Redirecting the Economy towardCommunity, the Environment, and a Sustainable Future (Boston, 1990); C.Cobb, T. Halstead, and J. Rowe, The Genuine Progress Indicator: Summary ofData and Methodology (San Francisco, CA, 1995).
54. M. Max-Neef, “Economic Growth and Quality of Life: A Threshold Hypoth-esis,” Ecological Economics 15, no. 2 (1995): 115–18.
55. P. Worsley, La tromba suonerà: I culti millenaristici della Melanesia (1957;Turin, 1961), 101–3.
56. A. Swinbank, “The EC’s Policies and Its Food,” in The Origins and Devel-opment of Food Policies in Europe, ed. J. Burnett and D. J. Oddy (London,1994), 249–63; D. F. Smith and J. Phillips, eds., Food, Science, Policy, and
N ot e s to C h a p t e r 7 247
Regulation in the Twentieth Century: International and Comparative Perspec-tives (London, 2000); J. L. Lusk, J. Roosen, and J. Shogren, eds., The OxfordHandbook of the Economics of Food Consumption and Policy (Oxford, 2011).
57. E. Castellanos and S. M. Bergstresser, “Foodfights at the EU Table: TheGastronomic Assertion of Italian Distinctiveness,” in Food, Drink and Identityin Europe, ed. T. M. Wilson (Amsterdam, 2006), 179–202.
58. See for example U. Beck, La società del rischio: Verso una seconda modernità(1986; Roma, 2000); idem, Conditio humana: Il rischio nell’età globale (2007;Rome, 2008).
59. C. Spencer, The Heretic’s Feast: A History of Vegetarianism (London, 1993).60. Eurispes, Rapporto Italia 2011 (sintesi), 45–46. Instead, other estimates refer
to about 10% of the population being vegetarian.61. ISMEA-Coldiretti, Le filiere agro-alimentari in Italia (Rome, 2011).62. S. Strasser, Waste and Want: A Social History of Trash (New York, 1999).63. D. Spoerri, Tableau-piège (snare-picture), 1960–1961.64. C. Petrini, Buono, pulito e giusto: Principi di nuova gastronomia (Turin, 2005).65. Accademia della cucina italiana, Il pranzo della domenica (Rome, 2008). See
also M. Montanari, Il cibo come cultura (Rome, 2004).66. J. Morris, “La globalizzazione dell’espresso italiano,” Memoria e ricerca 23
(2006): 27–46.67. The works cited, respectively, are Tom Wesselmann, Still Life N. 30 (paint-
ing), 1963; Claes Oldenburg, Pastry Case, 1 (sculpture), 1961–1962; JamesRosenquist, I Love You with My Ford (oil on canvas), 1961; Giovanni Anselmo,Untitled (Sculpture that Eats) (sculpture), 1968; Félix González-Torres,“Untitled” (USA Today) (installation), 1990; Zoe Leonard, Strange Fruit (forDavid) (installation), 1992–1997; Andreas Gursky, 99 Cent (chromogeniccolor print), 1999.
68. E. Ostrom, Governing the Commons: The Evolution of Institutions for CollectiveAction (Cambridge, 1990).
I n d e x
Note: The letter “n” following the locators refers to endnote numbers.
Abate, Felice, 57abundant–meager alternation, 21, 133Adenauer, Hermann Joseph, 136advertising
art and, 97for canned meat, 129for colonial products, 90in cooking magazines/postwar
period, 114early, 77for electrical appliances, 122, 123, 124housewives as audience for, 123, 124for Liebig’s meat extract, 91–92for packaged foods, 129–30“Progetto Galileo,” 151, 241n23sugar in, 126television, 130, 135, 144–45, 146,
186–87women in, during Fascist regime,
99–100for yogurt, 152see also propaganda during Fascist
regimeaffluent society period, 141–69
body concept in, 160–64eating out in, 149, 155–60globalization and, 164–69income percentage spent on food in,
143, 151kitchens in, 147, 150–51meal description in, 146–50, 240n14television advertising and, 144–45,
146Africa, 90–95, 168, 169, 233n32age
body size and, 163eating out and, 156–59
agriculturefood industry and, 75–79food–science nexus, 196–98gendered division of labor and, 43genetics and, 197peasant world and, 31–32,
33, 34vs. processed food, 127Slow Food Movement and, 201
Aiello, Leslie, 160Albertoni, Pietro, 73Aldi, 187Alto-Adige region, 96Americanization, 166Andreotti, Giulio, 142Annabella (magazine), 154Annang people, 161anorexia, 162D’Apice, Carmela, 144Appadurai, Arjiun, 169Appert, Nicolas, 78Apulia region, 115, 116, 117aristocracy, 1–26, 43–44
apparel in, 1, 4, 12etiquette in, 3–5, 9–10, 222n29kitchens in, 179local tradition in, 14–15, 21–26meal description in, 11–18meat consumption by, 15–21social hierarchy in, 3–5, 10
Aristotle, 202art, 120–21
food in, 5, 7, 46, 202–3Futurism, 81–82, 97in Sanvitale castle, 221n15on seven deadly sins, 20–21
250 I n d e x
L’arte di utilizzare gli avanzi dellamensa (The Art of Using TableLeftovers) (Guerrini), 100
Artusi, Pellegrino, 24–25, 44Ashurnasirpal II, King of Assyria,
191–92, 196austerity, see parsimonyAutogrill service area, 134automobiles, 117, 119, 134Autostrada del Sole (Highway of the
Sun), 144avian influenza, 196“l’avventura di due sposi” (Calvino),
109–11Azande people, 36
baby boom, 110baby food, 130bananas, 90Banda people, 30banquets, 75, 133, 191–92
Futurist, 81–82Barbara (complex society meal
description), 174–78Barilla, 185, 186Bari region, 96bars, 135Barthes, Roland, 71basse cuisine, 20Battle for Wheat (Fascist propaganda
initiative), 86Baudrillard, Jean, 146beauty, 160–64Beccaris, Bava, 42Beck, Ulrich, 199beef, 33, 73, 76, 125, 127
in affluent society, 151–52bistecca, 129canned boiled, 78corned, 79food industry and, 185regional consumption levels of, 193roast beef, 14, 16–17see also meat; meat consumption
Benedict, Ruth, 18benge ritual, 36Benjamin, Walter, 178–79, 180Berlinguer, Enrico, 142Berlusconi, Silvio, 145Bersani Law (1998), 187
beveragesCoca Cola, 114, 158, 166, 243n64sweet carbonated, 128–29see also water; wine
Bianchetti, Angelo, 134Bianciardi, Luciano, 113bistecca (quick-cooking meat), 129black market, 88, 106, 108BMI (Body Mass Index), 162–63Bocca, Giorgio, 113, 135Boccasile, Gino, 99Bocuse, Paul, 159body concept, 71, 160–64boiling, 16, 78bombing, 88–89Bon Ton (Sotis), 154–55Borachia, Vittorio, 120Boselli, Felice, 7Botero, Fernando, 164Bottéro, Jean, 191Bourdieu, Pierre, 4, 70–71, 145–46,
150, 164on separation in domestic space, 6on tasting, 17
bourgeoisie, 3, 4, 6, 95bovine spongiform encephalopathy
(BSE, mad cow disease), 196brand-name goods, 165–66, 185
global rankings of, 243n64wine, 166, 189, 245n31
Braschi, Enzo, 157bread
in affluent society, 148of American military, 89bought vs. home-baked, 128geographical journey of, 51in Mediterranean diet, 49–51in peasant world, 45, 46–47price of, 42rationing of, 88regional and social variations of,
47–48regulations on production of, before
WWI, 84symbolism of, 51
“bread of the dead,” 35breakfast, 11, 15, 128Brin, Irene, 155Bruegel the Elder, Pieter, 20Buitoni, 186
I n d e x 251
Burghy, 156, 157–58butter, 66, 137, 152Bynum, Caroline, 162
Cairoli, Benedetto, 24Calvino, Italo, 109–11, 144Camporesi, Piero, 145canned foods, 129canning, 78, 79canteens (collective working-class
eating), 73–74, 79, 155Capatti, Alberto, 24Caporetto, 85Carasso, Isaac, 153Cardinale, Claudia, 161Carême, Marie-Antoine de, 10Carosello (Carousel) (television
program), 130Carrefour, 187casot (peasant huts), 37–42Castiglione, Baldassare, 4Castiglioni brothers, 120Catholicism, 20, 57, 135, 228n7Celestina (postwar meal description),
115–18centerpieces, 7ceramics/pottery, 6, 7, 175cereals, 18–19
average yearly consumption of, 32–33bread and, 50–51during industrial development, 73in peasant world, 32–33, 45, 95–96see also wheat
Cervera family, 19chairs/thrones/seating, 3, 6Chambers, Iain, 50cheese consumption, 124, 152, 153chestnuts, 33, 38, 45Chianti wine, 25Chiapparino, Francesco, 96Chiari, Walter, 129chicken, 36–37
in affluent society, 151benge ritual, 36consumption levels of, 125dioxins found in, 196in peasant world, 40poultry, 17, 127see also meat; meat consumption
Child, Julia, 145, 240n11
children, 12, 40–42, 70China, 103Chinese cuisine, 167, 168chopsticks, 222n18Christian Democrats, 111, 127, 135–36Christians, 15, 68Christmas, 87, 133Cinzano, 97CIR group, 186Cirio, Francesco, 77, 78Clarke, Arthur C., 183class, see social classcoal, 60Cobb, John, 198Coca Cola, 158, 166
advertising for, 114global ranking of, 243n64
cocktails, 114coffee, 90–91, 92–93
in postwar period, 110, 124Colombi, Marquise, 5Colombo, Joe, 120Colombo, Luigi, 82colonial cuisine, 90–95colonialism, 90–95, 166Colonnata lardo, 199color use, 17, 81Common Agriculture Policy (CAP),
199Communists, 135company mergers and acquisitions, 186complex society period, 171–203
environmental modification in,197–98
food industry in, 183–91food scandals in, 196, 199globalization in, 196income percentage spent on food in,
192–93kitchens in, 174–75, 179–83local–global dualism in, 180–81meal description in, 174–78, 244n5political climate in, 173–74Senegalese community and, 194–95,
246n45Conad (purchasing group), 187consumer knowledge/self-education,
200consumer protection movements, 138,
239n84
252 I n d e x
consumers, 85–86diversification of food spending by,
128women, 131–32
consumption levelsduring affluent society period,
142–44, 151, 155average annual per capita,
1861–2009, 212–13average Italian, in 1880s, 32–33by country, 155factors influencing, 101during Fascist regime, 95, 96–97, 98,
101percentages of food and nonfood, in
Italy, 219poor families, 1872–1878, 33–34, 37,
210postwar, 109–10, 111, 124–32of rice and fish, 101–5rich families, 1872–1878, 33–34, 37,
211conversation, 13–14, 18, 41convivial banquets, 75cookbooks, 24–25, 135
by women, 100–101cookies, 128cooking (as preparation technique), ix,
16, 151, 182cooking shows, 145Coop Italia, 187corn, 45–46, 49
polenta, 23, 33, 38–40Corriere della Sera (newspaper), 154corruption, 173corsets, 162Costa, Angelo, 137Counihan, Carole, 128Covino, Renato, 96Cowan, Ruth Schwartz, 123crackers, 129Cragnotti, 186cream, 152Cremonini, 157–58, 185Cremonini, Luigi, 158Crispi, Francesco, 41, 45Croce, Giuseppe Cesare, 31“Cronache dell’Impero” (1937
newsreel), 91
La cucina italiana (Italian Cuisine)(magazine), 83, 113–14, 135
cultural materialism, 16, 26cunning, 31Cuore (Amicis), 24cutlery, 7–9
dairy products, 33, 84, 152–53cheese, 124, 152, 153milk, 124, 127, 152
Daly, Herman, 198Danone Company, 152, 153Dario (affluent society meal description),
147–50Dario (complex society meal
description), 175–78De Amicis, Edmondo, 24De Angelis, Wilma, 145De Benedetti, Carlo, 186Debord, Guy, 144deflation, 97De Gasperi, Alcide, 111De Grazia, Victoria, 99De Nittis, Giuseppe, 5Denominazione di Origine Controllata
(wine legislation), 138Depero, Fortunato, 97, 99Depretis, Agostino, 2, 24, 41deprivation, 70, 194, 246n42desserts, 14, 15, 126
packaged, 128diet
of average Italian, 32–33caloric intake, 107, 125of English working class, 69health and, 44–46, 65–66, 72–75, 88,
133, 160–64height and, 65, 162–63improvements during industrial
development, 71–75improvements in, after WWI, 86Mediterranean, 49–51, 193, 201nutrition, 72–75, 124, 133, 160of peasants, 32–34scientific terms of, 72–75, 78as shared culture, 48–49variations in, by social group, 95–96variations in, geographic, 95–96
dieting, 133, 178dinettes, 119, 120, 179
I n d e x 253
dining roomsaristocratic dining halls, 2, 5–7color use, 17dinettes, 119, 120status and, 5–6
dinner, 11, 155dioxin chicken, 196discount stores, 187disease, 65, 124
pellagra, 45–6, 226n51dishwashers, 150–51, 216Disraeli, Benjamin, 69distribution, 130–31documentary on poverty (Luce
Institute), 111–12La dolce vita (film), 114domestic spatial arrangement
in postwar period, 118–19private–public, 6separated rooms, 6
domestic work, 122–24Domus (magazine), 120Dona, Vincenzo, 138Douglas, Mary, 48–49, 156Drive In (television show), 157Dudovich, Marcello, 99Durand, Peter, 78
Easter, 20, 87–88, 133eating out, 135
in affluent society period, 149,155–60
by country, 217vs. home-cooked food, 58, 155inexpensiveness of, 58in postwar period, 117restaurants, 58–59, 117, 134–35,
155–59street vendors, 53–55, 58, 195
Eat Well & Stay Well (Keys), 50Eco, Umberto, 144E. coli, 196ecology, 181–83
consumers’ environmentalismaffecting eating habits, 200–201
environmental modification and, 37,197–98
peasants’ agricultural work and,31–32
economic crisis, 84, 85, 96–97, 142of 1929, 97of 2008, 192, 193–94
economic miracle period, see affluentsociety period; complex societyperiod
economic progress, 143–44eggs, 40, 124, 127electrical appliances, 119–20, 121–24
ecology and, 181–82, 183production of, in Italy, 216technology and, 182–83women and, 131
electricity, 61Eliade, Mircea, 61Elias, Norbert, 8–9emigration, 48–49, 167Engels, Friedrich, 69English working class, 69entreés (first important dish), 14entremets (intermezzos), 15environmental modification, 37,
197–98Erhard, Ludwig, 136Escher, Maurits Cornelis, 169Escoffier, Auguste, 25, 159L’Espresso (news weekly), 137Esselunga, 187Ethiopia, 90, 92, 94ethnic cuisines, 166–67, 195
African, 94, 233n32etiquette
in affluent society, 154in aristocracy, 3–5, 9–10, 222n29in postwar period, 114working-class families and, 70–71
exported food, 76, 102
factory workers, 59, 115–16canteens and, 73–74, 79in postwar period, 109–10variations in conditions for,
69–70see also industrial development/city
eating; working classfamily as social group, 156family size, 70, 112, 176Fanfani, Amintore, 111
254 I n d e x
Fascist Party regime era, 81–108, 111Coca Cola and, 166colonial cuisine in, 90–95consumption levels during, 95,
96–97, 98, 101food autarchy in, 86, 95–98Futurist banquets and, 81–82meal description in, 86–90, 232n9price of food during, 97–105public opinion of, 107see also propaganda during Fascist
regimefashion, 161fast food, 157–58fasting, 21, 72, 133, 162fats, 66, 96, 124, 129, 137feast days, 20, 133Feldmann, Augusto, 11, 14, 18Fellini, 114Ferreri, Marco, 140Ferrero, 185, 186Feste dell’Unità (celebrations), 159Feuerbach, Ludwig, 160Fiat factories in Turin, 112–13, 115, 116Fiat workers study, 112–13Fillía (Luigi Colombo), 82Fininvest, 145Finiper, 187Finnish diet, 50fire, 42–43
in stoves/industrial-development,60–61
First World War, 84–85fish, 36, 37, 101, 102
in affluent society, 149Fascist campaign for, 98, 101, 104industrial district for, 189in Mediterranean diet, 49moderation and, 21in postwar period, 117, 127preparation of, 67, 183preserved, 67see also meat consumption
focolare (hearth fire), 42–43Foggia, Amalia Moretti (Petronilla),
100–101food autarchy, 86, 95–98food businesses, 185
food distribution, 73in complex society, 187–88diversification in, 200–201during Fascist regime, 97–98of fish, 104industrial food districts, 146, 188–89of refrigerated/frozen foods, 79supermarkets and, 130–31, 139
food fraud, 79, 85, 137–38, 229n32food industry
in complex society, 183–91dairy in, 152–53during Fascist regime, 98food–science nexus, 196–98fraud in, 85, 137–38during industrial development,
75–79industrial food districts, 146, 188–89Italian revenues of, by sector,
2006–2010, 218in postwar period, 126–32, 137–40price of food and, 128supermarkets and, 130–31, 139wine, 189–91
food labeling, 199food rationing, 85, 88, 106, 107food scandals, 196, 199forks, 8–9Forza Italia party, 173France, 10, 24, 35, 42, 178–79Frankfurt Kitchen, 119–20Freeman, Michael, 168freezers, 151
production of, in Italy, 216French Chef, The (television show),
145French cuisine, 10, 21–22, 24, 159,
168–69Artusi on, 25cheese, 153
Fridays, 20, 21Frigidaire, 120Le Frigorifique (refrigerated steamship),
79frozen foods, 129, 175frying, 66Funk, Casimir, 72fusion cuisine, 168Futurism, 81–82, 97
I n d e x 255
galateo (etiquette), see etiquettegardens, 106–7, 182gas lamps, 61Gasperini, Brunella, 154, 155gastronomic literature, 83, 100, 106gastronomic synthesis, 81GDP of Italy, 110, 141Geertz, Clifford, 167–68gender
decreased differentiation in roles, 179division of labor by, 43–45, 149,
176–77Fascist propaganda and, 99–105hierarchy and, 43–45see also men; women
Genepesca, 104, 234n67General Commission on Food
Consumption, 85General Motors, 120genetics, 197La gente per bene (Respectable People)
(Marquise Colombi), 5Genuine Progress Indicator, 198Germany
Italy and, during WWII, 107–8nutrition in, 72in postwar period, 131, 136–37vegetarianism in, 200
Ghersi, Italo, 100Il ghiottone errante (The Wandering
Glutton) (Monelli), 83Gini index, 174Gioia, Melchiorre, 5, 9–10, 11Giolitti, Giovanni, 75, 96globalization, 164–69
in complex society, 196effects of, 172–73food scandals and, 196food–science nexus and, 196–98of Italian cuisine, 201–2
global movement of food, 22–23, 51,165–66
gluttony, 20–21, 97body concept and, 162secularization and dieting and, 133sugar and, 125
goat meat, 66, 151Goldberger, Joseph, 45–46Goldthwaite, Richard, 26“good manners.” see etiquette
Goody, Jack, 19–20, 94, 168Gosetti sisters, 113government food regulation, 198–99grains, see cereals; wheatLa grande abbuffata (The Great Binge)
(film), 140green building, 181Green Revolution, 197Grillo, Beppe, 152grist tax, 42Gross Domestic Product (GDP), 198GS Supermarkets, 157Guérard, Michel, 159Guerrini, Olindo, 100Guida gastronomica d’Italia (Touring
Club Italiano), 83Gundle, Stephen, 161
Hamburger Lady, 141–42Harris, Marvin, 16Hasuike, Makio, 120haute cuisine, 20, 159health
diet and, 44–46, 65–66, 72–75, 88,133, 160–64
food scandals, 196improvements in public, 64–66Mediterranean Diet and, 193, 201nanotechnology and, 184science and, 124vegetarianism and, 200water and, 57
hearth fire, 42–43heraldic emblems, 6hierarchical food order, 16, 94hierarchical social order
in affluent society, 154of aristocracy, 3–5, 10in Ethiopia, 94gender and, 43–45during industrial development, 69–70of kitchens, 179in peasant world, 43–45quantity/quality of food consumption
in, 19–20seating arrangements and, 13
highway service stations, 134Hindus, 15holidays, 87, 133, 156
256 I n d e x
home-cooked food, 155, 217expense of, 58see also eating out
Horace, 111hors-d’œuvres, 14horse meat, 66housing, 115–16human ecological footprint, 197–98hunger, 29–30
grist tax, 42malnourishment, 70
hygiene, 72, 124improvements in, 64–65street vendors and, 195
IBEC (International Basic EconomyCorporation), 130–31
ice cream, 128ice houses, 78–79identity, Italian national, 83–84, 203identity, modernity and, 173immigrants, 194–95immigration, 167
to Germany, 137to North region, 110, 113, 139–40
imported food, 22–23, 76brand-name, 166increase in, during Fascist regime, 96
incomeof agricultural workers, 32, 33, 34distribution of, after political crisis of
1992–1993, 173–74of factory workers, 70, 110increased levels of, 64–65, 110, 125,
143reduction in, 96, 98trend in per capita since 1994, 192
income percentage spent on foodin 1880s, 18, 33, 34in 1934, 95–96in 1981–2009, 220since 1994, 192–93in 2012–2013, 245n37in affluent society, 143, 151in complex society, 192–93during industrial development,
68–69, 76by peasants, 18, 34, 95in postwar period, 112–13
Indian cuisine, 169
individualism, 143industrial development/city eating,
53–79canteens, 73–74, 79diet improvement during, 71–75factory workers, 59, 69–70, 73–74,
79food industry, 75–79income percentage spent on food,
68–69, 76meal description in, 59–64meal times in, 59meat in, 62–63, 66–67, 73public health and, 64–66restaurants in, 58–59street vendors, 53–55, 58water in, 56–57, 61, 73wine in, 62, 68, 73working class, 59–64, 68–69, 70–71,
73–74, 79industrial districts, 143, 146, 188industrial food districts, 146, 188–89inflation, 85, 106Internet, 180, 182–83Io compro, tu compri (I Buy, You Buy)
(television show), 138Ireland potato famine, 46IRI (Institute for Industrial
Reconstruction), 186“Italia” etymology, 15“Italian” cuisine (in U.S.), 49Italian food businesses, 185–86Italiani del nord e italiani del sud
(Northern and Southern Italians)(Niceforo), 72–73
Italian language, 98Italian National Institute of Statistics
(ISTAT), 112, 163–64, 176, 188,246n42
Italian Social Movement, 111
Jacini, Stefano, 32Japanese diet, 50, 185Javanese wedding poem, 132Jewish people, 15Jones, Martin, 51Jukun people, 8
Kayapó people, ixkebabs, 195–96
I n d e x 257
Keys, Ancel, 49–50, 201kitchens
in affluent society, 147, 150–51in complex society, 174–75,
179–83dinettes and, 119eat-in, 119ecology and technology in, 181–83during Fascist regime, 87living kitchens, 179in modern French houses, 179in postwar period, 116, 118–24, 131status and, 5–6on television, 145
knives, 7–9, 221n17Kuznets, Simon, 101Kwakiutl Indians, 18
labor force participation by women, 123Lactalis, 186lamb, 151Lancia Brothers, 78Land of Cockaigne, the, 30lard, 66Latium region, 96, 112Lauro, Achille, 112legislation, 138Lemba people, 105–6Lent, 20, 21, 133Leopard, The (Lampedusa), 1–3, 4Letizia, Donna, 114Lettere meridionali (Southern Letters)
(Villari), 32Levi, Carlo, 105Lévi-Strauss, Claude, ix, 15, 185Libro del Cortegiano (The Book of the
Courtier) (Castiglione), 4–5Lidl, 187Liebig, Justus, 72, 77, 91–92Limiti, Paolo, 145livestock, 76, 84, 127
see also meat; meat consumptionliving kitchens, 179local–global dualism, 165, 180–81, 188
see also globalizationlocally-sourced food, 21–26, 98, 149,
153as globalization response, 172–73
local tradition, 21–26Lollobrigida, Gina, 161
Lombroso, Cesare, 45Lombroso, Gina, 68longevity, 64Loren, Sophia, 161Louis Philippe d’Orléans, king of
France, 75, 178, 180Luce Institute, 111–12lunch, 11, 148, 155, 202
magazines, cooking, 114Maggi, Julius, 77Magistretti, Vico, 120Magnum Agency, 160Maione, Guiseppe, 144malnourishment, 70Mangano, Silvana, 161“Manifesto della cucina futurista”
(Manifesto of Futurist Cooking)(Marinetti and Fillía), 82
Mani pulite (Clean Handsinvestigation), 173
Marchesi, Gualtiero, 159Marches region, 96Marinetti, 82market surveys, 113Marshall, Alfred, 188Mastronardi, Lucio, 113Maya people, 45–46Mayes, Frances, 171–72Mazzarò story, 27–29McDonald’s, 157–58, 185, 195,
243n64McKeown, Thomas, 65McLuhan, Marshall, 172meal courses, 13–15, 62, 148–49, 155,
222n35meal descriptions
in affluent society, 146–50,240n14
in aristocracy, 11–18in complex society, 174–78, 244n5in Fascist regime, 86–90, 232n9during industrial development,
59–64, 228n13peasant, 37–42, 225n28in postwar period, 115–18, 236n17
“meals of the dead,” 35meal times, 10–11, 15, 39, 59, 155
258 I n d e x
meatabstaining from, 21, 133fast food, 157–58food–science nexus and, 197game, 36, 37genetics and, 197preparation of, 16–17, 36, 66, 67,
183price of, 18–19refrigeration of, 79religious law and, 15–16Simmenthal canned, 129for soldiers, 84in vitro, 184white, 151–52see also beef; chicken; fish; pork
meat consumptionin affluent society, 149, 151during affluent society period, 143,
151after 1950s, 125in aristocracy, 15–21average yearly, 33, 125during Fascist regime, 84, 87, 95, 96during industrial development,
62–63, 66–67, 73in peasant world, 40in postwar period, 116–17, 125reduction in, 193regional variations in, 16–17, 19, 67by social group, 95
meat extract, 72, 77–78, 91–92Mechnikov, Ilya, 152–53medical care, 65
see also healthMediterranean diet, 49–51, 193, 201Mellowes, Alfred, 120men
after-meal ritual of, 14BMI of, 163body concept of, 162, 164caloric requirements for, 107income of, in factory work, 70knives and, 8labor of, 43–44in peasant world, 43wine and, during industrial
development, 68see also gender; women
Mennell, Stephen, 20
methanol wine, 196Michelin Guide, 134–35, 159microwaves, 151, 182middle class, 123, 179, 192–93Milan Institute of Hygiene study, 107military, 79
American, 89meat in, 84microwave cooking, 151rations in, 73, 84–85, 103WWI and, 84–85
milk consumption, 124, 127, 152Ministry of the Interior study, 69Mintz, Sidney, 125Miseria e nobiltà (Poverty and Nobility)
(film), 114mobility, 110, 115, 134, 167moderation, 21Mokyr, Joel, 124molecular gastronomy, 183Monelli, Paolo, 83Monoblocco (kitchen design), 120Montanari, Massimo, 24Morelli, Lidia, 100Moro, Aldo, 142mortality rates, 64, 65–66multiculturalism, 166–67Munch, Edvard, 164Muslims, 15Mussolini, Benito, 83Muti, Ornella, 161The Mystery of Sacrifice or Man Is What
He Eats (Feuerbach), 160
nanotechnology, 183–84Na people, 71Naples region
aqueduct system in, 57Fiat workers in, 113Lauro election, 112pasta in, 103
national cuisine, globalization and,168–69
nationalism, 24, 25–26Fascist regime and, 82, 96language and, 98
National Rice Body (Ente nazionalerisi), 102–3
national unification of Italy, 2, 24Native American myths, 142
I n d e x 259
Natta, Guilio, 121nature–culture dualism, 181Nauru and Cook islands, 163Nazism, 108Ndie Zot rite, 35Nestlé, 186newsreels, 91Niceforo, Alfredo, 72–73North Atlanta Trade Organization
(NATO), 108, 136Northeast region, 147North region
consumption levels in, 151fats in, 96immigration to, 110, 113, 139–40pasta in, 103poverty in, 112rice in, 102sweets in, 126
Northwest region, 147Notari, Umberto, 83Nove, Aldo, 141–42Novello (illustrator), 83Nuovo Galateo (The New Etiquette)
(Gioia), 5Nuovo ricettario domestico (New Family
Recipe Book) (Morelli), 100nutrition, 72–75, 124, 133, 160
see also diet; health
obesity, 163–64Oglala Lakota people, 156oil crisis of 1973, 140, 142Okanagan people, 142olive oil, 49, 66, 137Omnibus (newspaper), 154Onge people, 161Opera (Scappi), 24orecchiette pasta, 116organic certification, 199Oromi people, 90–91Ostrom, Elinor, 203Owen, Robert, 74
Pacific Island cultures, 161packaging, 130Pam (supermarket), 187Pane, amore e fantasia (Bread, Love,
and Imagination), 145Paninaro (Pet Shop Boys), 157
Papua, New Guinea truth-telling poles,198
Parisi, Ico and Luisa, 120Parmalat, 186Parr, Martin, 160parsimony, 83, 84, 96, 97
Fascist propaganda and, 100during WWII, 106–7
Pasolini, Pier Paolo, 114, 144pasta, 116, 124
industrial districts and, 188–89in Mediterranean diet, 49origins and geographical history of,
103–4Pavesi, 129, 134peasant foods, 22peasants, 27–51, 70, 225n16
agricultural work of, 31–32, 33, 34bread and, 45, 46–47cereals and, 32–33, 45, 95–96consumption levels, 1872–1878,
33–34, 37, 210diet of, 32–34emigration of, 48–49fables of, 31feeding deceased people, 35gender and, 43–45health of, 44–46hearth fires, 42–43income percentage spent on food, 18,
34, 95in Italy vs. neighboring countries, 35Mazzarò story, 27–29meal description of, 37–42meat and, 40potatoes and, 46
pecorini (ewe’s milk cheese), 153pellagra (disease), 45–46, 226n51Petrini, Carlo, 201Petronilla (Amalia Moretti Foggia),
100–101Pet Shop Boys, 157Pezzoli, Pia Maria, 93–94Piovene, Guido, 113pizza, 47, 53, 58
see also breadplace settings, 7, 114plastic, 121plumbing, 56–57, 61polenta, 23, 33, 38–40
260 I n d e x
political banquets, 75political climate
1871–1891, 2, 24in affluent society period, 142,
143–44after WWI, 84Catholics and, 57, 228n7in complex society, 199–201crisis of 1992–1993, 173–74postwar, 111, 135–36
Ponti, Giò, 120Pop Art, 139Popol Vuh (sacred Guatemalan book), 45Popper, Karl, 146pork, 15, 62, 63, 66–67, 127
in affluent society, 151–52see also meat; meat consumption
Porta Palazzo market, 115postwar period, 84, 109–40
consumption levels in, 109–10, 111,124–32
diet and health in, 133etiquette in, 114food industry during, 126–32,
137–40income percentage spent on food in,
112–13kitchens in, 116, 118–24, 131meal description during, 115–18mobility in, 110, 115, 134political climate during, 111, 135–36
potages, 14potatoes, 46poultry, 17, 127
see also chicken; meatPo Valley region, 96, 102poverty, 29, 34, 225n16
deprivation definition, 194, 246n42diet and, 69food choices and, 193–94geographic distribution of, 34,
112–13parliamentary research on,
1951–1953, 111–12urban vs. rural, 56see also peasants
powerof aristocracy, 3–4body discipline and, 162
Il pranzo del vescovo (The Bishop’sLunch) (De Nittis), 5
preparation of meat, 16–17, 36, 78of fish, 67, 183frying, 66molecular gastronomy, 183preserving, 67
preservation, 77canning, 78, 79during Fascist regime, 87refrigeration, 67, 78–79
price of food, 88average retail, 1861–2010, 209of bread, 42during Fascist regime, 97–105food industry and, 128of meat, 18–19in postwar period, 102, 127, 128production percentages of, 200regional variations in, 245n39from street vendors, 53–55, 58white meat, 151–52wholesale vs. retail, 102, 127, 215during WWI, 85
Pritchard, Evans, 36private–public space, 6
kitchens and, 119, 150, 180modern houses in France and,
178–79processed food, 31, 76, 126–30
average yearly consumption of, 32–33skepticism about, 131–32, 138
produceaverage yearly consumption of, 33during industrial development, 73in Mediterranean diet, 49
productionof dairy products during WWI, 84see also agriculture
production–consumption dualism, 76,197–98
globalized Italian cuisine and, 202propaganda during Fascist regime, 97,
98–105directed at women, 99–101for rice sales and consumption, 98,
101–3see also Fascist Party regime era
Protected Designation of Origin (DOP),199
I n d e x 261
Protected Geographical Indication(IGP), 199
proverbs on food, 29–30on bread, 47on polenta, 38–39on produce, 49on wine, 68
Puberty (Munch), 164public opinion polls and surveys, 113Pugliese, Angelo, 73Pythagoreans, 160
quantity/quality of food consumed, 18,19–20, 21, 199
in haute cuisine restaurants, 159of wine, 189in working-class families, 70–71
Rabbi Eisik story, 61rabbit meat, 151race, 72–73rail transport, 57, 79rational cuisine, 74–75rationing, see food rationing; militaryraw food, 16ready-made meals, 132Reagan, Ronald, 143recipes, oral tradition of passing on,
117–18refined products, see processed foodrefrigeration/refrigerators, 67, 78–79,
85, 116, 119, 121Frigidaire, 120production of, in Italy, 216
regional diversity, 139–40affluent society and, 146–47, 151body size and, 163–64of bread, 47–48of cheeses, 152, 153of fats, 66of income spent on food, 193of meat consumption, 19of meat preparation, 16–17, 67as part of Italian cuisine’s global
popularity, 201–2of poverty levels, 34, 112–13of sweets, 126of wine production, 190–91
regulation, 138, 198–99of bread production, 84
Relativity (Escher), 169relevés (light dish), 14religion, 68, 133, 228n7
food laws, 15–16, 20–21holidays, 20, 87–88
Resca, Mario, 158restaurants, 117, 134–35, 155–59
number of, in 1884, 58–59retail, see shops
(small/local/independently-owned);supermarkets
Rex (ship), 91, 232n27Ricasoli, Bettino, 25rice, 51
Fascist campaign for, 98, 101, 102–4in Philippines, 227n73
La ricotta (Ricotta Cheese) (film), 114risk assessment, 199–200riso di guerra (wartime rice), 103Ritz, César, 25Rivelli, Luisa, 138roasting, 16–17Roche, Daniel, 6, 61Rome/Romans, 103Rosa, Anna, and Antonietta D. (Fascist
regime meal description), 86–90,232n9
Rosa, Giorgio, 124–25Rossetti, Giorgio, 6Rossi, Alessandro, 74rôts (roast meat), 15Rubner, Max, 72Ruffili, Francesco, 44“rule of the triangle” (in kitchen
design), 121
Sabatini, Marietta, 44sacrifice, 15Sada, Gino, 78Sada, Pietro, 78Said, Edward, 50, 173salami, 67Salvarani, Renzo, 121Sanvitale, Alberto, 12–14Sanvitale castle, 5–7, 221n11Saper vivere (Knowing How to Live)
(Serao), 5Saturday Evening Post (weekly), 123Scalfari, Eugenio, 137
262 I n d e x
Scappi, Bartolomeo, 24scarcity, 43–44, 193Schama, Simon, 150school meals, 230n56Schüte-Lihotzky, Margarete, 119science, 196–98
diet expertise of, 72–75, 78food scandals and, 196molecular gastronomy and, 183nanotechnology, 183–84nutrition and, 124, 133
La scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiarbene (Science in the Kitchen and theArt of Eating Well) (Artusi), 24–25
seasonal food, 139, 178seating arrangements, 12–13, 114Second World War, 84, 88–89, 106–8secularization, 133, 135self-help literature, 100self-sufficiency campaign, 99–100Senegalese community in Italy, 194–95,
246n45sensory perception, 17–18Serao, Matilde, 5, 55, 56seven deadly sins, 20–21sewage systems, 57shopping, 115
diversification in, 200–201shops (small/local/independently-
owned)in affluent society, 158, 166in complex society, 187, 195, 200in Fascist regime, 98food fraud by, 79during industrial development, 53,
55, 58–59, 67in postwar period, 115, 118, 130–31,
140see also supermarkets
Sicilypasta in, 103sweets in, 126
Simmenthal meat, 129Sironi, Mario, 99Slow Food Movement, 157, 201small business, 185, 188smart homes, 182–83SME (Società Meridionale di Elettricità),
127, 157, 186snacks, 128–29
Snaidero, Rino, 121social class
in affluent society, 154–55, 157body size and, 163–64domestic space organization and, 6kitchen spaces and, 179Mediterranean diet and, 50quantity/quality of food consumed
by, 19–20refined food and, 31wine and, 33–34see also aristocracy; bourgeoisie;
peasantssocial crisis, 142Socialists, 136Soldati, Mario, 113Sotis, Lina, 154–55, 189–90Le sottilissime astutie di Bertoldo (Croce),
31Sottsass, Ettore, Jr., 135soup, 86, 100South region
carbohydrates in, 96consumption levels in, 151discrimination against people from,
116emigration from, 113influences of, in North, 118, 139–40poverty in, 112sweets in, 126
Spain, 19spices, 22–23Spoerri, Daniel, 201spoons, 7Stiglitz, Joseph, 101stoves, 60–61
electric, 151gas, 116, 151production of, in Italy, 216
street vendors, 53–55, 58, 195Strong, Roy, 6sugar, 76
consumption levels of, 125–26Sunday lunch tradition, 202supermarkets, 130–31, 139, 187
see also shops(small/local/independently-owned)
Supermarkets Italiani, 130–31supply chain length, 200
I n d e x 263
swine flu, 196Switzerland, 163Sybil, or the Two Nations (Disraeli), 69symbolic significance of food, 19–20,
35–37, 51, 68synthetic food, 184
tablesin affluent society, 148in aristocracy, 7in complex society, 177during industrial development, 62in peasant world, 39
table serviceFrench-style, 10Russian-style, 10–11
Tamalo, Giovanna (Hamburger Lady),141–42
Tanzi, Callisto, 186taste preferences, 139tasting, 17taxes and tariffs, 42, 96technology, 181–83Telemenu (television show), 145television, 119, 144–46, 186–87
advertising on, 130, 135, 144–45,146, 186–87
consumer protection and, 138criticism of, 145–46etiquette about, 114
temperature of food, 10territorial manufacturing systems,
188–89Teti, Vito, 50thinness, 160–64toasting, x, 11Tomasi di Lampedusa, Giuseppe, 2tomato sauce, 23, 78, 188–89torta delle colonie (colonial cake), 90Totò, 114Touring Club Italiano, 83tourism, 137, 139trade routes, 22–23, 51, 165tradition, 149, 184–85
Accademia italiana della cucina,239n85
of aristocratic meal courses, 14–15,21–26
cookbooks and recipes, 24local, 21–26
vs. modernity, 113–14vs. processed foods, 132recipes by, 117–18renewed interest in, 201
traditional–innovative food industrydualism, 184–85
travel, 167Trentmann, Frank, 164trickster myths, 142Triveneto zone, 146–47Troisgros brothers, 159Tunisia, 24Turin General Exhibition, 91Turin region
Fiat workers in, 112–13, 115, 116Italian migration to, 115
turkey, 151Turner, Bryan, 162Tuscany region, 171–73Twiggy, 161
Umbria region, 96Under the Tuscan Sun (film), 171–73Uniblocco (kitchen design), 120Unilever, 186Unione nazionale consumatori (National
Union of Consumers), 138United Kingdom, 69, 72United Nations, 64United States
BMI in, 163consumer protection in, 138kitchens in, 119–20supermarkets in, 131
United States/American diet, 50, 72urbanization, see industrial
development/city eating
Van Gogh, Vincent, 46vegetable oil, 66vegetarianism, 200, 247n60Il ventre di Napoli (The Belly of Naples)
(Serao), 55, 56Verga, Giovanni, 29Victor Emanuel III, King of Italy,
25–26Villari, Pasquale, 32, 47vitamins, 72Vogue magazine, 161
264 I n d e x
war gardens, 106–7Warhol, Andy, 139water
during industrial development/cityeating, 56–57, 61, 73
in postwar period, 117wealthy people
consumption levels among,1872–1878, 33–34, 37, 211
see also aristocracy; peasantsWeber, Eugen, 35wheat, 127
as food for rich, 33increased imports of, 231n61in Mediterranean diet, 49–51peasants and, 39price of, 200symbolism of, 51
Wheeler, Peter, 160white meat, 151–52Wilk, Richard, 164wine, 189–91
average daily amount consumed, bysocial group, 95
average yearly consumption of, 33–34brand-name, 166, 189, 245n31Chianti, 25during industrial development, 62,
68, 73industrial food districts, 189legislation on, 138methanol, 196in peasant world, 49in postwar period, 117social class and, 33–34symbolism of, 68
womenin affluent society, 154after-meal ritual of, 14aristocratic, 12–13, 14, 43–44BMI of, 163, 164
body concept of, 160–64bread baking by, 128caloric requirements for, 107in complex society, 176–77consequences of modernized
domestic work on, 122–24cookbooks by, 100–101Fascist regime’s campaigns aimed at,
99–100, 104as healers, 44–45income of, in factory work, 70invisibility of, 44knives and, 8labor force participation by, 123labor of, 43–45in peasant world, 43–45in postwar period, 113–14reaction of, to food industry’s
growth, 131–32scientific nutritional education for, 74traditional recipes and, 117–18during WWII, 106see also gender; men
working classcanteens for, 73–74, 79diet recommendations for, 73etiquette and, 70–71income percentage spent on food,
68–69meal description, 59–64in postwar period, 111–12weekly diets of, in 1885, 214see also industrial development/city
eatingW. R. Grace and Company, 185
yogurt, 152–53youth culture in affluent society, 156–58
zighinì, 233n32Zimmer, Heinrich, 61