table of contents - snake care tips from the experts · mali. the ball python is the smallest of...

Table of Contents

Introduction ……..........………......................................... 2

Ball pythons are one of the most popular types of snakes kept as pets. This book's introduction examines some of the reasons why.

Chapter 1 - Purchasing Your Ball Python …….…......... 11

This chapter offers tips on finding a ball python, evaluating the snake's health prior to purchasing, and other selection topics.

Chapter 2 - Your Ball Python's Habitat ......................... 28

In this chapter, you'll learn how to create a proper environment for your snake, in order to keep it healthy throughout its life.

Chapter 3 - Handling Your Ball Python ......................... 64

Have questions about the right way to pick up and handle your ball python? You'll find the answers in this helpful chapter.

Chapter 4 - Feeding Your Ball Python ........................... 74

An in-depth look at feeding methods, types of prey, frequency of feeding, etc. Also, what to do when your ball python won't eat.

Chapter 5 - Snake Maintenance 101 .............................. 90

This chapter will help you maintain your ball python with tips for cleaning, maintenance, monitoring, and basic health care.

Appendix - Helpful Checklists ........................................ 106

A compilation of the various checklists offered throughout the book (a feeding chart, a maintenance tracker and more).

Ultimate Guide to Ball Python Care

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The Ultimate Guide to Ball Python Care

by Brandon Cornett ReptileKnowledge.com


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Introduction


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The Ball Python - A Species Profile The ball python (also known as the royal python in Europe) is a non-venomous constrictor that's popular within the pet trade. This snake is native to Africa, mostly the northwestern part of the continent in countries such as Togo, Ghani and Mali. The ball python is the smallest of the African pythons, which is partly why it is so popular within the pet trade. In the wild, ball pythons are usually tan, brown and black, like the specimen shown below. In the pet trade, however, ball pythons have been selectively bred to produce a wide variety of colors and patterns. These variations are commonly referred to as "morphs." Most of these color morphs are unique to the pet trade and do not occur in nature.

On average, ball pythons grow to an adult size of 3 ½ to 5 feet (1 - 1 ½ meters). Females are usually larger and heavier than males of the same age. This extra girth helps the females produce healthy offspring. Ball Python Classification Order - Squamata Family - Pythonidae Genus - Python Species - Python regius


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What is it About Snakes? As long as humans have known about snakes, there has been a mixture of fascination and fear surrounding them. I think the fascination comes mostly from people with curious minds about nature in general, people who seek to understand snakes. The fear, on the other hand, comes mostly from people who are not as open-minded toward nature, and have no desire whatsoever to learn about snakes as a species. Because you are reading this book, I can safely assume that you fall into the first category. I can assume you are the kind of person who is fascinated by snakes, not fearful of them. And that means you and I have something in common! There is a third group of people as well -- those with a combination of fear and fascination toward snakes. These people are interested in snakes to some degree, but somewhat fearful at the same time. So with regard to snakes, most people fall into one of these categories:

1. Fascinated by snakes and eager to learn more about them.

2. Afraid of snakes, to the degree of having an unnatural hatred of them.

3. Somewhat interested in snakes, but afraid of them at the same time.

I would venture a guess that this third group is the largest group of all. I think the "lovers" and the "haters" of snakes are the smaller minority, and that most people fall somewhere in the middle. Why am I telling you all of this? Because as a current or future snake keeper, you are in a position to educate some people away from their hatred or fear of snakes. You are certainly under no obligation to do this, but it would help the conservation cause of snakes -- and animals in general -- if you took on the role of educator from time to time. Knowledge creates empathy, and empathy is the key to animal conservation. It's just something to keep in mind as you venture into the world of snake keeping.


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What is it About Ball Pythons? Did you know that the ball python is one of the most popular snakes kept as pets in the U.S.? It's true. In fact, there are more ball pythons born and bred in captivity each year than almost any other type of snake. The corn snake is the only species more common in the pet trade, but I believe ball pythons are catching up and will soon "tie" the corn snake in popularity. So what is it about the ball python that makes it such a popular pet? Why do so many first-time keepers (and even veteran keepers) gravitate toward the ball python option? To answer this question, we must first ask the question: "What makes a good pet snake?" If you were to ask ten different snake keepers what the best types of pet snakes are, you would probably get ten different lists. That's because everyone has their own opinions and experiences. Regardless, I am willing to bet the ball python comes up on 99% of those lists! My Criteria for Best Snakes as Pets What makes a good pet snake? What kind of criteria should you consider before purchasing a snake to keep as a pet? Here is a list of criteria that I feel are most important when choosing a pet snake: 1. Average adult size

2. Feeding habits

3. Temperament / behavior

4. Health in captivity / hardiness

Based on the pet snake criteria I have outlined above, the ball python makes an excellent candidate for captive care, even for people with very little snake-keeping experience. This ball python appears on a lot of "best pet snake" lists besides my own, and with good reason. Ball pythons meet most of the criteria listed above. They grow to a manageable size, rarely exceeding five feet. They are generally docile and reluctant to bite. And they will do well in captivity if properly cared for. As far as feeding goes, some ball pythons can be finicky eaters. In fact, the number-one


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question I receive from keepers is: "My ball python won't eat. What should I do?" I've dedicated an entire chapter of this book to feeding techniques, so I won't go to far into the subject here. Let me just say that. If I were to give a letter grade to ball pythons, in each of the four categories above, it would look like this: Average adult size -- A+

Feeding habits -- B

Temperament / behavior -- A+

4. Health in captivity / hardiness -- A

Like I said, we will talk more about feeding in a later chapter. So as long as you accept this characteristic about ball pythons, and you're okay with it, then I would still recommend them as a pet snake. They are very docile and reluctant to bite (I've never even had one strike at me). They rarely get longer than five and a half feet. And they do well in captivity, as long as you take care of their basic needs. In fact, they can live for 25 years or more in captivity. So be sure you're in it for the long haul if you choose a ball python as your type of pet snake. On top of all this, captive-bred ball pythons come in a wide variety of color "morphs" with names such as pastel, ghost, bumblebee and cinnamon ... just to name a few. The best way to see all of the morphs being produced today is by doing a Google image search for "ball python morphs." Then you can scroll through the images and pages to see all of the varieties. When you combined all of these benefits, it's hard to go wrong choosing the ball python as your type of pet snake.


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Keeping Ball Pythons - My Own Story I have been interacting with snakes for over three decades now, and I can break that up into two phases -- irresponsible keeping as a kid, and responsible keeping as an adult. I tell you this because the goal of this book is to make you a responsible snake keeper, regardless of your age or current level of experience. As kids, my brother and I would catch snakes in the wild (garter snakes mostly) and put them into hastily constructed cages made of two-by-fours and window screen material. By the time you've finished this book, you will realize how dumb this was -- if you don't realize it already. We would obtain our knowledge of snake care from a guy who knew a guy whose older brother once had a pet snake. Sadly, as you might imagine, our snakes never fared well in captivity. But fortunately for those garter snakes, we would eventually have the sense to re-release them back into the wild, knowing that we were in over our heads. I can only hope that their time in our "care" did not reduce their ability to care for themselves in the wild. We were young, we were foolish, and I'm writing this book partly to make up for those years. After "going off snakes" for a few years, I revisited my reptilian passion when I was in my twenties. This ushered in the second phase of my snake-keeping history -- responsible snake keeping as an adult. Long story short, I'm well past my twenties now, but I'm still keeping at least a half-dozen snakes at any given time. Here's the point I'm making, and what it has to do with you: I don't want you to learn about snake care the hard way, by making many mistakes along the way as I did early on. Instead, I want you to learn from my snake-keeping experiences so that your ball python receives the best possible care from day one. I also want you to be confident in your ability to provide such care, regardless of your age or current experience level. As a matter of fact, you have an obligation to provide such care for your ball python. It is your duty to do so, and you must take that duty seriously. This brings us to the snake keeper's pledge...


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The Snake Keeper's Pledge Whether you already have a ball python, or will soon be purchasing one, I ask that you make the following pledge. If you don't yet own a snake, this is a great opportunity to get started on the right foot. If you already own a snake, it's not too late to take the pledge! The Ticking Time Bomb of Improper Snake Care Here's the main reason I ask you to take the snake keeper's pledge. On the web page where I sell this book, I mention that improper snake care is like a ticking time bomb just waiting to go off. That's not some gimmick to try and increase book sales -- it's the truth. You see, the thing about snakes is that they suffer in silence. A snake does not make noise or show facial expressions, like a dog or cat. Have you ever had a dog that didn't feel well, or a cat that was angry about something? They let you know, didn't they? Dogs can whine and cats can mewl to show their displeasure or unhappiness. They both also have facial expressions that are fairly easy to read. But not snakes! Snakes have no facial expressions whatsoever. Nor do they whine or moan when they are sick or unhappy. They are much harder to "read" than a dog or a cat. So when a snake is experiencing pain or illness, you normally won't know until some kind of visible symptom shows itself. This is what I mean by a "ticking time bomb." If a ball python is kept in improper conditions, the snake will suffer in silence. On the surface, it might seem like everything is fine. But inside, the time bomb is ticking. Before you know it, your snake stops eating and begins dropping weight, or maybe it suddenly shows signs of a respiratory illness, or shows some other kind of symptom. When that happens, you are beyond the point of preventing illness. The illness has arrived, and you are now into the stage of treating the illness. In other words, the time bomb has gone off, and you must now react to it. Proper snake care is a way to defuse the time bomb before it even starts ticking. Proper snake care is a way to prevent illness, rather than simply reacting to it. And that's why I want you take the snake keeper's pledge. In fact, I've put the pledge on a page of its own, to allow you to print it, to sign it, and to proudly post it near your snake's enclosure to serve as a constant reminder.


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The Snake Keeper's Pledge I, [state your name], do solemnly pledge to give my ball python the best care possible, as long as the snake is in my care and keeping. Furthermore, I pledge to learn all I can about the care and keeping of ball pythons before acquiring my snake, and I pledge to continue learning in order to expand my knowledge over time. I pledge to read at least one book on ball python care [this book will suffice], and to make use of Internet resources such as snake forums, care sheets, articles, etc. I also pledge the following: That I will provide a proper enclosure / habitat for my ball python.

That I will maintain optimum temperatures for my ball python at all times.

That I will ensure my ball python has clean water at all times.

That I will keep my snake well fed, but not overfed.

That I will strive to maintain a clean and healthy environment for my snake.

That I will be a responsible keeper in all regards -- feeding, cleaning, handling, security, etc.

Signature and Date:


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How to Use This Book I recommend that you read this book all the way through in the order it's presented, and then refer back to certain chapters as needed. You will notice a good deal of repetition throughout the book. It's not meant to insult your intelligence, but only to help you retain as much information as possible on the first reading. Here's how repetition helps: Have you ever taken a class in high school or college where the teacher / professor summarized each lesson in advance, and then again after the lesson? It helped you learn the subject matter, didn't it? Studies have shown that repetition during a lesson increases comprehension rates significantly. You'll see me practice that technique throughout this book. This book is full of repetition, summaries, overview, and in-depth analysis of many topics related to ball python care. So if you encounter a certain topic more than once in the book, there's a reason for it. In many cases, we will start with a general overview, dive deeper into the details, and then wrap things up with a summary at the end. I believe this is the best way to learn a subject, and the experts back me up on it. So who am I to argue? Getting to the Good Stuff Have you had enough introductory material? Ready to take the plunge into the real meat of the book, the nitty-gritty of ball python care? Me too. So let's move on to the good stuff. Let's talk about selecting and purchasing your ball python. If you already have a ball python, feel free to skip over this section and meet me on Page 29 of the book.


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Chapter 1 - Purchasing Your Ball Python


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Selecting and Purchasing Your Ball Python Before you read any further into this section of the book, ask yourself the following question: "After purchasing my ball python, will I be able to care for it for the next twenty-five years?" It's important to ask this question in advance -- and to answer it honestly -- because ball pythons, like many pets, are a long-term obligation. When they are properly cared for, ball pythons can live 20 - 30 years in captivity, or more! For somebody with a true passion for snakes, this means many years of enjoyment. But for other people, the initial thrill of snake keeping may wear off after a year, making the remaining years an unrewarding obligation that no longer interests them. Many ball pythons (and pets in general) have suffered under the "care" of disinterested owners. In other words, if you're not in it for the long haul, then don't get into it in the first place. Of course, if you cared enough to purchase and read this book, you have already shown a strong desire to properly care for your ball python. Good for you. I'm sure you'll be part of the responsible majority of good snake keepers. Welcome to the club! Where to Buy Your Ball Python We will talk about several different ways to acquire a ball python in this chapter of the book. But I'd like to preface that discussion with a bit of advice. If at all possible, purchase your ball python from a professional breeder with a solid reputation. Of all the ways to acquire a ball python, this is by far the best option.

It's Quick Tip Time: Caring for your ball python will be much easier if you start with a healthy specimen that eats readily. Do your homework when selecting a ball python, and make sure it's eating consistently before you purchase it.

Professional breeders make their living by raising and selling snakes. For these folks, selling healthy animals is a matter of both business survival and personal passion. So you are more likely to get a healthy specimen from a professional breeder than from any other source.


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In contrast to this, the snakes sold by a large pet store chain may only account for 2% of the store's overall sales, and therefore may not get the care and attention they deserve (sadly). With that said, here is a list of ways you might acquire a ball python:

1. From a professional ball python breeder

2. From a general pet store

3. From a pet store specializing in reptiles

4. From a friend

5. From the wild (not recommended)

Let's talk about each of these paths to snake ownership in more detail, starting with the professional breeders mentioned previously. Buying from a Ball Python Breeder In this book's introduction, we talked about the immense popularity of ball pythons, and how they are bred in captivity more than almost any other snake. Because of this, it's relatively simple to obtain a ball python from a professional breeder these days. By the way, I use the word "professional" to distinguish the type of breeder I recommend (those who do it for a living) from less-experienced breeders who only breed snakes as a hobby. You can find a list of ball python breeders in the United States on our website. I do my best to keep the list updated. Here is the link: http://www.reptileknowledge.com/breeders/ball-python.php There are basically three ways to acquire a ball python from a professional breeder:

1. Purchase the snake from the breeder at a reptile show.

2. Have the snake shipped to your home (mail order).

3. Purchase the snake by visiting the breeder's facility.

The third method is rare for a couple of reasons. For one thing, the chances that you live within driving distance of a professional ball python breeder are pretty


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slim. Secondly, many breeders prefer to work in mail-order fashion, shipping snakes to their customers. So the chance that you live close to a breeder who welcomes visitors is even slimmer. So let's talk about the first method listed above for purchasing the snake from a breeder. Let's talk about the reptile show... While you may not live close to a ball python snake breeder, you could still meet one in person (to purchase a snake) by attending a reptile show in your area. These shows run the gamut from one-day events with 30 or so breeders, to three-day events with hundreds of breeders attending. Granted, they won't all be ball python breeders. But due to the immense popularity of ball pythons within the pet trade, I guarantee you'll find at least one ball python breeder at nearly every reptile show in the United States.

It's Quick Tip Time: Reptile shows are a great way to expand your options when shopping for a snake. Professional breeders travel from all over the country to attend reptile shows (especially the bigger events). So you may have a lot more options for purchasing a ball python by attending such a show.

There are two ways to find out about shows that may be coming to your area: (1) using the Internet and (2) checking out Reptiles magazine. Using the Internet, you could just do a Google or Yahoo search for "reptile show" plus your city or state's name. For example: Reptile show +California

Reptile shows in Texas

Reptile show Baltimore

You get the idea

When I use the second search term listed above (since I live in Texas), I am presented with information on a variety of great shows, such as the Austin Reptile and Amphibian Expo, the Texas Reptile Expo, and more. Easy and effective! Reptiles magazine is another good place to learn about upcoming reptile shows in the U.S. At the end of each issue, they have a list of shows covering the next few months at a glance. You can pick up a copy of Reptiles magazine at most major


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pet stores, such as PetSmart and Petco. You can also subscribe to the magazine online through their website, which at the time of this writing had been relocated to the following web address: www.ReptileChannel.com Once you've discovered a reptile show that's coming to your part of the country, the next step is to identify a ball python breeder who will be attending that show. Once again, the Internet is a great place to start such a search. Here's how I would go about it:

1. First, make a list of professional ball python breeders. Visit ReptileKnowledge.com and do a search for "ball python breeders," and you'll find the list that I've put together.

2. Next, after you have list of about eight to ten breeders, make a second

column beside each breeder's name and label the column "Shows." What you are doing here is creating a helpful checklist for future research.

3. Use this checklist to keep track of your research -- which breeder is

attending which show, etc. 4. Leave space for some additional note taking under each breeder's name.

When talking to breeders via email or on the phone, use this space to jot down notes about snake availability, ordering process, or anything else you want to remember later on.

5. Now all you have to do is contact each ball python breeder on your list by

phone or email to start filling in the blanks. Here are some of the questions to ask when doing your research: Questions for Ball Python Breeders

1. What kind of ball python morphs do you have available this year?

2. What shows will you be attending over the next few months?

3. If I want to purchase a snake from you at a show, do I need to pay a deposit in advance, to make sure the snake doesn't sell before I get there?

4. Do you have a current price list / availability list on your website?


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5. If I can't meet up with you at a show, do you ship snakes to [your state], and how does that process work?

For your convenience, I've created a "Breeder Research" checklist on the next page. You can use this document to keep track of all the research we talked about in this chapter, such as reptile shows, breeders, etc.

It's Quick Tip Time: If you don't already have a ball python file, this is a good time to start one. I'll be giving you additional checklists as we progress through this book. It will be best if you print copies of these checklists and add them to your files for easy access.


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Ball Python Breeder Information Sheet (Print multiple copies and use one sheet per breeder) Breeder Name: Website Phone Number

Shows Attending:

Deposit Required: Y / N Notes:

Morphs Available:

Do They Ship Snakes? Y / N Notes on Shipping:

Other Notes:


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Having a Snake Shipped to You If you do the necessary research but find out there are no reptile shows coming to your area, you can have the breeder ship the snake to you. All professional breeders are expert at shipping snakes, because it's what they do for a living. Here are some tips for having a ball python shipped to you: First, be sure to complete the breeder-research checklist I've created for you.

That way, you'll have a list of breeders who can ship snakes to you, and you'll know what the process involves for each breeder.

Ask out about payment. Most breeders require full payment in advance, before

they will even schedule a shipment. Find out where they can ship the snake. If they use a service like FedEx, that

means they can ship the snake to your door. If they use an air cargo service like Delta Dash, you'll have to make a trip to your nearest airport with a Delta cargo terminal to pick up the snake.

Find out about seasonal restrictions. For obvious reasons, many breeders do

not ship snakes during the coldest months of the year. Even with the use of a heat pack inside the shipping container, some places just get too cold in the winter to safely ship a snake. The same goes for extremely hot temperatures.

Be sure to arrange the shipping date when you can be home to accept to the

package. Most breeders use either next-day shipping or two-day shipping, so you will know in advance when the snake is coming. If it's coming by FedEx, you need to be home to accept the delivery. If it's coming by Delta Dash to your local airport, be sure you can get to the airport that day.

Find out about "live arrival" guarantees. Any reputable breeder will have some

kind of guarantee about live arrival. But these guarantees will vary slightly from one breeder to the next, so ask about this in advance.

If you're curious about the methods breeders use to safely ship snakes, there's

a good picture tutorial on the subject at: http://www.allboas.com/methods.php


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Buying a Snake from a General Pet Store Though I recommend purchasing your ball python from a professional breeder, it's also possible to acquire a healthy specimen from a general pet store. By "general" pet store, I'm referring to pet stores that sell all kinds of pets, including dogs, cats, fish, birds and reptiles -- as opposed to a pet store that specializes in reptiles only (next topic). Most medium to large-sized cities will have plenty of general pet stores, ranging from the big chains like PetSmart and Petco to the smaller, locally owned shops. Even if you live in a small town with fewer options, I'm willing to bet there's a general pet store within driving distance that sells ball pythons. Remember, ball pythons are one of the most popular snakes in the pet trade. So if a general pet store offers snakes, it's a safe bet that their inventory includes ball pythons. Call around and see what you can find out. The thing to keep in mind about general pet stores is that they differ greatly in the way they care for their reptiles. Some pet stores do an excellent job caring for their reptiles, and they provide healthy specimens as a result. Other shops know very little about reptile care -- and it shows.

It's Quick Tip Time: You can tell a lot about a pet store (and how they care for their reptiles) just by looking at the reptile section. Are the cages and water bowls clean, or are they filthy? Do the reptiles appear healthy and alert, or do they look like they are suffering from improper care? When in doubt, trust your first impression of the pet store and its staff!

Later in this chapter, I'll teach you how to evaluate the health of a ball python before purchasing, regardless of who is selling the animal. But for now, let's move on to talk about the other type of pet store -- the one that specializes in reptiles.


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Buying From a Reptile Specialty Shop Reptile specialty shops are exactly what they sound like. They are pet stores that specialize in the sale, and sometimes the breeding, of reptiles and amphibians. There are more of these shops than there were several years ago, thanks to the continued growth of herpetoculture (reptile keeping) as both a hobby and an industry. So the chances are pretty good that there's a reptile shop within driving distance of where you live. One of the good things about the reptile specialty stores is that they usually offer more variety than a general pet store, as far as snakes go. For instance, a Petco store may only have one ball python in stock at any given time, while the reptile shop across town has five or six to choose from. Quality Varies Across the Board Here's an important lesson to take away from this section of the book. Both types of pet stores (general and specialty) vary in terms of snake health and care. For example, consider the following: I once visited a Petco store in San Diego where the snakes were kept in

terrible conditions -- bad enough that I gave the manager an earful and threatened to call the Humane Society.

In contrast, there is a Petco store in Austin, Texas (where I live now) that

takes excellent care of their reptiles. They have a designated "reptile girl" who cares for them, and I often chat with her when visiting.

I once visited a reptile specialty shop in Maryland to peruse their ball python

selection. One specimen (probably imported / wild-caught) had ticks all around his eyes and appeared to be both dehydrated and malnourished. I left the store empty-handed and disgusted.

In contrast, I once purchased a kingsnake from a reptile specialty shop in San

Diego. These people took great care of their herps. They even gave me a certificate for a free checkup with a reptile veterinarian -- that's how confident they were in the health of their reptiles.

As you can see, there are good and bad examples of all pet stores, the general and the specialized alike. So the key is to know what to look for (and what to ask) when purchasing a ball python from a pet store. And that's our next topic!


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Evaluating a Ball Python Before Purchasing Regardless of where you purchase your snake -- from a reptile show or from a pet store -- you will want to evaluate the snake to see if it appears in good health. Of course, you won't have this option if you have the snake shipped to you, which is why I recommend choosing a reputable breeder if you're having a snake shipped. But when buying a snake in person, you have the benefit of being able to evaluate the animal firsthand. Here are some to look for when purchasing a ball python: First of all, ask if the ball pythons were captive bred, or if they are wild-caught

specimens. I recommend avoiding ball pythons taken from the wild (i.e., imported from Africa), because they usually come with health problems, parasites, etc. They are also more likely to be aggressive. I recommend purchasing a snake that was born in captivity.

Ask the breeder (if at a show) or the clerk (at a store) if you can handle the

snake you have your eye on. You can't evaluate the snake properly while it's inside the enclosure.

A healthy snake will appear alert when you hold it, and should actively flick

its tongue to check things out. The snake should have good muscle tone, and should be able to support itself

by curling around your fingers or wrist. It should not hang limp. Check to make sure the snake does not have any lumps along the length of its

body. This could be a tumor, an abscess, an old injury, or even a genetic abnormality of some kind.

Closely inspect the snake's skin to make sure it has does not have any external

parasites such as ticks or mites. Ticks are fairly easy to spot. Mites will appear as tiny pinhead dots, usually black or red in color. If you look closely enough, you can even see mites moving on the skin of a snake. When gorged with blood, both mites and ticks will look like tiny balloons.

Check the eyes to make sure they are clear and healthy looking. Make sure the

eyes do not have "dents" in them, because this is a sign of dehydration.


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It's Quick Tip Time: It can be hard for the first-time keeper to spot health concerns in a new snake. So if you have a friend who is more experienced with keeping snakes, by all means ask them to accompany you when evaluating your potential purchase. That's what friends are for!

Ask the breeder or store if they have a health guarantee on their snakes. For example, a 30-day health guarantee would mean that the seller guarantees the health of the snake for a period of 30 days, and will replace unhealthy snakes free of charge within that timeframe. Thirty days is a reasonable amount of time to evaluate the true health of your new ball python. During that time, you could also schedule a veterinary visit for the snake. A reptile vet can examine a stool sample for internal parasites, which is not something you can spot with the naked eye. The vet can give the rest of the snake a close examination as well.


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A Word About Wild-Caught Snakes I touched on the subject of captive-born versus wild-caught snakes in the previous section. But I want to expand on the subject here. Purchasing a captive-born / captive-bred ball python is by far the best option. Some pet shops get their ball pythons from animal importers, who take the snakes from the wild in Africa. I do not recommend purchasing such a wild-caught specimen. Ball pythons that are captive bred within the United States are almost always healthier than snakes imported from Africa. Here are three specific reasons I recommend avoiding wild-caught snakes as a pet option:

1. A wild-caught snake is more likely to have health issues than a snake born and raised in captivity. These issues might include external parasites such as ticks, internal parasites, injuries from predator attacks, etc.

2. Though ball pythons are plentiful in the wild, continued collection by

humans will eventually stress their populations -- especially in areas where habitat loss is also an issue for the animal.

3. Snakes that are born in captivity will fare better in captivity, for the obvious

reason that they experience captive conditions from day one. On the contrary, a ball python that is plucked out of the wild and stuck into a cage may have trouble adapting to those conditions. Often, this shows up in the form of the wild-caught snake refusing to eat in captivity.

When you consider all of these factors, combined with the fact that captive-born ball pythons are so readily available in the U.S., there is really no reason to purchase a wild-caught specimen.

Terminology Note: When researching and shopping for a ball python, you may encounter the acronyms WC and CB. As you can probably guess, they stand for "wild caught" and "captive bred" respectively. CBB, or "captive born and bred" is also used in the reptile trade, and it means essentially the same as CB.

I think I've made my point on this topic. So let's move on to the next subject. Let's talk about ball python morphs.


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Choosing a Ball Python Morph These days, captive-bred ball pythons come in a wide variety of colors and patterns. When considered together, these color and pattern variations are referred to as "morphs." The variety of ball python morphs is always increasing, and it's partly what makes the ball python such a popular snake in the pet industry. In the wild, there is not as much diversity among ball python colors and patterns. They all look basically the same, with minor variations in their patterns. But through the selective breeding of captive specimens, ball python breeders have been able to produce a wide variety of morphs. These morphs have such creative names as pastel, spider and ghost. Here's what you need to know about ball python morphs. From a care and keeping standpoint, one morph is the same as the next. Sure they look different, but their care requirements are the same. The care advice you derive from this book will serve you well for any morph. So when choosing a morph, just go with the one you like best, from an appearance standpoint. Caring for one is the same as caring for another. Despite what they look like on the outside, they are all ball pythons (Python regius). Many people feel that the natural morphs (those that occur in the wild) are the most attractive, while other people prefer the "designer" morphs that are produced through selective breeding. It's simply a matter of personal preference. Where to See Ball Python Morphs Here are some places online where you can view the different ball python morphs available today: http://www.vpi.com/galleries/ball_python_gallery

http://www.rcreptiles.com/collection.html

http://www.ralphdavisreptiles.com/matrix/proven_unproven_traits.asp


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Your State's Reptile Laws Every state in the U.S. has different laws regarding reptiles. Some states have general laws that lump all snakes into the same category, while other states have specific laws for specific snake species (particularly those species that are native to the state). I am certainly not inclined to interpret the laws of all 50 states in the U.S., or the laws in Canada. But this book would be incomplete if I didn't at least plant the seeds for your further research. Here's the good news on this subject. Most states allow the captive keeping of ball pythons, and most states will allow ball pythons to be shipped into the state (from a breeder who lives elsewhere in the U.S.). Of course, there's a chance you live in one of the states with strict laws regarding reptiles. So you will have to do your own research into the matter. Here are some places online where you can begin your research: www.uga.edu/srelherp/ecoview/Eco9.htm

www.reptilerooms.com/forumview-33.html

http://forums.kingsnake.com/forum.php?catid=13#1427056

You can also do a Google search for "reptile laws" + your state.

You can also contact your local Petco or PetSmart to see what they know.


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What to Do Before Buying a Ball Python In this chapter, we talked quite a bit about purchasing a ball python. So let's take a moment to look back and summarize. We talked about the various places to purchase your ball python, including:

1. Direct from a breeder, via reptile show or by mail order / shipping 2. From a general pet store 3. From a reptile specialty store

I also recommended that you choose option #1, purchasing your snake from a professional breeder, and that you avoid wild-caught snakes altogether. Later, we discussed some of the things you should look at when evaluating a ball python prior to purchasing (if you have such an opportunity). I gave you a list of checkpoints to look at, such as the snake's muscle tone, alertness, respiratory function, overall condition, etc. We talked about the many ball python morphs (color and patterns) that are available, and how the care advice in this book applies to all ball pythons equally, since they are all members of the same species. In addition to what we've covered so far, there are other things to consider before purchasing a ball python. So for your convenience, I've created another handy checklist for you to use. On the next page, you will find a checklist of the research, planning and preparation steps that must be completed before you purchase your ball python. Some of the items on the list (such as food sources) will be thoroughly discussed later in the book. So don't worry if you see a checklist item that's not familiar to you -- we will have covered everything by the time you finish reading this book. Next page >> Pre-purchase checklist


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Checklist - Before Purchasing Your Ball Python:

Research your state's laws regarding reptiles in general and ball pythons in particular. Most states allow ball pythons to be kept as pets, but you need to check.

Create a list of eight to ten breeders who produce ball pythons.

Start researching reptile shows and make a list of those within driving distance.

Contact breeders to find out about the shows they attend, snake availability, shipping procedures, etc. Use the Breeder Information Sheet I provided earlier.

Check out all of the ball python morphs available to determine your favorite.

Start preparing your snake's habitat (cage, heating, lighting, etc.).

Obtain a food supply (frozen rodents) or a reliable food source (live rodents).

Finish this book to learn about the proper care and keeping of ball pythons!

Finish your snake's habitat, with a focus on proper temperatures and security.

Purchase your ball python, keeping in mind the evaluation tips I've provided.

Take the Snake Keeper's Pledge from earlier in this book.

Get help from experienced keepers when needed. Join some ball python forums for this purpose. For starters, check out the forums at Kingsnake.com.


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Chapter 2 - Your Ball Python's Enclosure


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Preparing Your Ball Python's Enclosure Before you bring your new ball python home, you need to carefully plan the snake's enclosure. There are several reasons for this. For one thing, snake enclosures cost money. So you want to try and get it right the first time. The last thing you want is to spend a bunch of money on a caging setup, only to find out that it's insufficient in some way.

Terminology Note: In this chapter, I'll be using the terms cage, enclosure and habitat quite a bit. So let's clarify their meaning. Cage and enclosure mean the same thing -- they simply refer to the glass or plastic "box" in which your snake will live. The habitat is an all-encompassing word that refers to the cage, the furniture, the substrate, heating and lighting, etc.

With that out of the way, let's talk about the different types of cages / enclosures available for ball pythons. Glass cages -- These are the aquarium-style cages sold in most pet stores.

Technically, they are called "terrariums." An aquarium is waterproof for housing fish, amphibians, aquatic turtles, etc. A terrarium is not waterproof and is designed to house reptiles, hermit crabs, rodents, etc.

Plastic cages -- Today, there are a wide variety of cages made from durable

plastic materials. These cages are usually solid plastic (non-transparent) on all sides except the front. The front will usually be clear glass or acrylic for viewing. Some plastic cages have light and heating built in, while others have receptacles in the top where you can add heating and lighting devices. Vision cages are a popular type of cage in this category.

Rack systems -- I won't talk much about rack systems in this book, because

they are mostly used by snake breeders to house many snakes (in other words, they are used by advanced keepers). These people are highly experienced with ball python care, so they are not the intended audience of this book.

Homemade cages -- Many snake keepers choose to build their own snake

enclosures. This is certainly an option, but I don't recommend it for a first-time or novice snake keeper (for whom this book is intended). To build a proper snake enclosure, you need to know a lot about snakes, and that comes from years of snake-keeping experience.


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My Experience With Snake Enclosures You are going to get a lot from this chapter of the book. That's because I have used every type of snake cage imaginable over the years. I've learned a lot from my own trial and error, and you will be able to benefit greatly from that knowledge. Let's start with my absolute favorite type of caging for ball pythons -- the Vision cage! I've tried a lot of cage types over the years, but the Vision cage is by far my favorite. These cages are actually designed by snake keepers, and you can tell because they have thought of everything. Here are the things I like best about them: Size -- Vision cages come in a variety of sizes. There are three and four-foot-

long models that are ideal for ball pythons, even the larger specimens. Durability -- The body or "shell" of a Vision cage is extremely durable. You

could probably drop one of these things off the back of a moving truck with little harm (though I obviously don't recommend such treatment). The glass panels on the front are thick and shatter-resistant, and they can be replaced in the event of accidental breakage.

Versatility -- Vision cages don't have heating and lighting built in. But some

models have receptacles where you can place overhead heat lamps and fluorescent lights. I prefer this method, because it makes it easy to swap out dead bulbs, faulty lamp fixtures, etc. We will talk more about this later.

Easy to clean -- A lot of plastic cages (especially the ones with built-in heat

panels) have crevices and corners that are hard to clean. The Vision cage has rounded corners and edges all the way around, making it much easier to spray and wipe inside. This reduces the chance of bacteria buildup.

Stackable -- Vision cages work well as single, standalone units. But you can

also stack them if you add snakes to your collection over time. The heating and lighting receptacles are installed in a way that allows the units to be stacked one on top of the other. This can save a lot of space, especially if your snake collection grows the way mine has!

It probably seems like I'm being paid to advertise these cages, but I assure you that's not the case. (I wish I was.) In truth, I just love these cages, so it's easy for me to sing their praises. I also like knowing that my Vision cages will last a


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lifetime, because I can easily replace the external heating and lighting elements, and the "shell" of the cage is nearly impervious to normal wear and tear. Example of a Vision Cage Pictured below is a four-foot Vision cage. This one is actually housing a seven-foot gopher snake (pictured), so you can see how it would be plenty big enough for even the largest of ball pythons. The round feature descending from the top of the cage on the left side is a receptacle for a heat lamp. There is also a receptacle for a fluorescent bulb in the middle. You'll also notice the placement of snake hides and other "furniture" items we will talk about later.

Other Plastic Cages Here's another type of plastic cage that has heat and lighting built in. The heat pad is located beneath a plastic panel (out of sight) on the left side of the cage. Thought I own several types of plastic cages, all of my future purchases will be Vision cages. In my experience, they just can't be beat.


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Using Glass Terrariums My choice for snake caging is obvious, but there are many other caging products available as well. The glass terrarium is another popular option among ball python keepers, so let's talk more about them. As a reminder, a glass terrarium looks just like a glass aquarium, except a terrarium is not waterproof. This makes terrariums more affordable than waterproof aquariums, gallon for gallon. Glass terrariums can be a suitable environment for ball pythons. They come in a variety of sizes, and they can easily be lit and heated from above. But there are a couple of things to keep in mind using glass terrariums. For one thing, consider that these terrariums have clear glass on all sides, which reduces the amount of privacy the snake has. In my experience, ball pythons spend more time hiding when kept in all-glass cages. They simply feel more exposed, and with good reason. And the more time your snake spends hiding under its rock or log, the less time you will have to enjoy seeing it "cruising" around the cage. The all-glass "fish bowl" effect can also affect the appetites of some ball pythons. Snakes that do not feel secure in their environments will often refuse to eat. Here's a story from my own experience. I once transferred a ball python from a drawer-style cage (that was completely enclosed) to an all-glass terrarium. The snake stopped eating completely, and it hardly came out from its hide. After two months of refused meals, I put him back in the drawer-style cage, and he resumed eating right away. What can we take away from this? The cage is part of the snake's environment, and the environment can influence the snake's behavior. File that one away for future reference. You may need to do some trial and error like this some day. Compare the glass terrarium to a Vision cage or something similar, which is only clear in the front of the cage. It makes sense that a ball python would feel more secure in a cage that is only see-through on one side (the front). But you should also keep in mind that all snakes are different. Some will do just fine in a glass terrarium, while others may "prefer" more private surroundings. If your snake eats well and is otherwise healthy, you have nothing to worry about. But if your snake refuses meals, you must be willing to experiment with the environment. Here's the bottom line. In my experience, ball pythons will generally feel more secure in a cage with some solid, non-transparent sides to it. As a result, the snake will be out and about more often, which means more enjoyable viewing for the


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owner. It will also eat regularly, because it feels secure in its environment. In a nutshell … the more privacy you can give your ball python, the better! Of course, there is a compromise here. If you want to use a glass terrarium, while making your snake feel more secure at the same time, you could put a background on one or more sides of the terrarium. This would be the scenic landscape film (with deserts, jungles and the like) that you've probably seen on the back of glass terrariums in pet stores or in reptile magazines. The snake won't care much about the beauty of the landscape scenery, but it will appreciate the added privacy of having some of those sides covered. This kind of scenery background is available in nearly every pet store. By taping a background onto the outside of three sides of the cage (leaving the front open), you could make the cage more visually appealing for you and more private / secure for the ball python. It's something to think about. My advice is to purchase a three- or four-foot Vision cage, if you can afford it. Such a cage can comfortably house a ball python for its entire life. If you cannot afford a Vision cage (or something comparable), I recommend a glass terrarium with the back and at least one other side taped off with a scenery background. Some snake keepers argue that this defeats the purpose of keeping a ball python. "I want to be able to see my snake at all times," the argument goes. "That's why I bought it in the first place." You need to realize that what's good for you (constant visibility) is not always good for the snake. If you ever have to decide between what you want and what your snake needs, the needs of your snake should come first. There's a good chance your ball python will spend most the daylight hours in hiding. This is what they do in the wild. They are nocturnal snakes that spend most of the day in hiding, so they should be able to do this in captivity as well. We will talk more about hiding places as we go along. This is another critical element of your ball python's habitat.


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Cage Size for Baby Snakes Many snake keepers say that you should avoid putting a baby or juvenile snake into an adult-sized cage because the snake will be intimidated by the "wide open spaces" of its enclosure. I dispute this notion silly for several reasons. First of all, one must consider the fact that baby snakes in the wild are not kept in tiny, secure enclosures. They are "housed" in the most wide-open space of all -- Planet Earth. In the wild, snakes usually move from one hiding spot to another. This natural behavior can easily be duplicated in captivity, and we will talk more about it throughout this chapter. I also dismiss the small snake / small cage notion for financial reasons. It can be an enormous waste of money, when you think about it. Imagine starting with a small cage for your baby snake, then upgrading for your juvenile snake, and upgrading yet again for your adult-sized snake. That's a lot of money spent on cages, and for no good reason. I have always chosen my snake cages with a one-time purchase in mind, choosing a cage large enough to handle an adult snake even though I may be starting with a younger / smaller snake. One snake, one cage, one purchase -- that's my rule of thumb. Of course, there is one situation where using smaller temporary cages for baby snakes makes perfect sense, and that's if you later get into breeding and selling snakes. In that case, it would make sense to conserve space by housing newborn snakes in smaller cages, perhaps by utilizing a rack system set up specifically with baby snakes in mind. And if those baby snakes were then sold to other people, outgrowing their cages would not become an issue for you. But for a pet snake situation, there is nothing wrong with putting a young snake in a cage large enough to house it into adulthood, provided the snake has several places to hide inside the cage. With all of this being said, you must be willing to experiment. These statements are based on my own experiences. And while I have plenty of experience with ball pythons, it doesn't mean these statements are written in stone. There are exceptions to every rule. So if you have a small snake in a big cage, and the snake refuses to eat, you might want to transfer it into a smaller cage. Experiment! We will talk a lot more about "snake hides" later in this chapter. For now, let's move on to the basic components of a ball python setup, in addition to the cage itself.


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Creating a Ball Python Habitat In the previous section of this book, we talked about the various types of cages that are suitable for ball pythons, such as plastic cages and glass terrariums. But if you recall from our terminology lesson earlier on, a cage and a habitat are two different things. The cage is part of the habitat, but there are other items that need to go into (and around) the cage to make it a fully functioning snake habitat. In the rest of this chapter, we will talk about transforming an empty cage into an ideal habitat for your ball python. There are five basic components of a snake habitat:

1. The cage

2. The substrate

3. Lighting

4. Heating

5. Furniture (bowls, hides, climbs, etc.)

We have already talked about the cage (item #1 above), which is the fundamental element of a ball python habitat. So now let's discuss the remaining four items on the list -- substrate, lighting, heating and furniture. If it seems like I am spending a lot of time on small details, that's because I am. And with good reason! On the web page where I sell this e-book, I promised you that we would cover every detail of ball python care, no matter how insignificant it might seem at first. That's because, in truth, there aren't any insignificant details to ball python care -- it's all significant. Every bit of advice offered in this book is important to the health and wellbeing of your snake. This is especially true when it comes to your snake's habitat. Details such as substrate, light and heating are important when considered individually, and even more important when considered together. If you create a healthy habitat for your ball python, the animal will thrive for many years. It will also be much less likely to succumb to illness, refuse meals, etc. That's why we are spending so much time on details. So let's dive into those habitat details -- starting with the cage substrate.


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The Substrate In Your Snake's Habitat The term "substrate" refers to the material lining the bottom of your ball python's cage. Substrate is an important consideration because it affects everything from snake health to the ease of cleaning. The three most popular substrates for ball pythons (and the three that I recommend) are newspaper, aspen wood shavings, and a paper-based product called Carefresh bedding. There are many other types of substrate as well, but I recommend you choose one of those I just listed. Cypress mulch also works well. From a health standpoint, all of these substrate materials work well for ball pythons. But there are some pros and cons of each substrate. Here they are in a nutshell: Pros and Cons of Suitable Substrates

Material Pros Cons

Newspaper Cheapest options. Easiest to find. Easiest to replace.

Least appealing visually.

Aspen shavings Visually appealing. Readily available.

Can be a bit dusty. Harder to clean and replace than newspaper.

Carefresh bedding Comes in different colors. Readily available. Resistant to mold. Heat-treated for cleanliness.

Most expensive option. Harder to clean and replace than newspaper.

Cypress mulch Readily available. Attractive. Helps increase relative humidity, if needed.

Harder to clean and replace than newspaper. Moist nature of cypress requires more frequent cleaning / maintenance.


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Some snakes, such as milk snakes and kingsnakes, will burrow in the wild and so should have the opportunity to do it in captivity. In my experience, ball pythons aren't big on burrowing. In the wild, they will seek shelter in existing burrows created by other animals, but they don't do much burrowing for themselves. Personally, I keep my ball pythons on Carefresh bedding. It offers a greater level of comfort than newspaper, and it helps me regulate the temperature inside the cages. Once in a while, if I have a snake that doesn't shed completely, I'll put it on cypress mulch. Cypress increases the relative humidity inside the cage, because it retains moisture. In fact, cypress mulch is usually a bit moist right out of the bag. When the problem shedder gets all of its skin off, I'll switch it back to the Carefresh bedding, which is easier to clean. My advice to you is to experiment with different substrates to see what works best for you and your snakes. If you really want to showcase your ball pythons, you may wish to use aspen shavings, cypress mulch or Carefresh bedding, rather than plain old newspaper. Just keep in mind there are only two practical ways to remove these substrates at cleaning time. You will either have to turn the cage over and dump it, or use a shop vacuum. So the type of substrate you choose will be partly determined by the type and size of cage you use. Also remember that the simpler the setup, the easier it is to clean. Newspaper isn't very attractive, but it sure is easy to replace. Aspen shavings look nicer, but they are harder to swap out. It's a tradeoff. My best advice, again, is to be logical about it and choose what works best for you. Substrates to Avoid There are also certain types of substrates you should avoid. Cedar shavings, pine shavings and aquarium gravel all fall into this category. Cedar shavings should be avoided for health reasons. It is widely believed that the oils found within cedar shavings (and possibly pine shavings in general) have a harmful effect on snakes over time. That's reason enough to avoid them. Aspen shavings good ... cedar and pine shavings bad. Aquarium gravel (or any type of gravel for that matter) is financially impractical for use with snakes. For obvious health reasons, you must replace all of the cage substrate at least once a month. To do that with decorative aquarium gravel would get really expensive, really fast!


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Substrate Conclusion So let's summarize what we have learned about substrates. A cage substrate is simply the material that lines the bottom of the snake's cage (hence the prefix "sub"). Suitable substrates for ball pythons include newspaper, aspen shavings, cypress mulch, and a paper-based product called Carefresh pet bedding. Which one you choose will depend on the type of cage you have, and how concerned you are with the appearance of your cage. Cedar and pine shavings should be avoided for health reasons, as they may be harmful to your snake. Aquarium gravel and similar materials should be avoided for cost and practicality reasons. Cypress mulch is a good option if your house is very dry, with a low relative humidity. Keep an eye on how your snake sheds. If it sheds completely every time, then the humidity is good. If the snake sheds in lots of little pieces and retains skin on its body, the relative humidity is too low. In my experience, cypress mulch can be the perfect solution to this problem. You'll have to replace it more often, because the moistness can lead to bacteria growth, but it does wonders for a snake with shedding problems. Experimenting with different substrates during the first few months of your snake keeping will help you identify the best substrate for your particular snake, location, climate, humidity, etc. Always remember the tradeoff between appearance and ease of maintenance. Generally speaking, the more naturalistic and attractive a snake cage is, the harder it is to clean. The reverse is true of simplistic cage setups. This is a personal preference really -- a balance you must strike for yourself. So that wraps up the substrate component of your ball python's habitat. Now let's talk about an even more important component of the habitat. Let's talk about heating the habitat.


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Heating Your Ball Python's Habitat We will talk quite a bit about heating in this chapter, because it's a critical component of your ball python's habitat. All snakes need heat for their health and wellbeing. They depend on it for life functions such as digestion and circulation. So you need to factor heat into your cage setup plans. In order to help you understand how snakes use heat, and how you must provide it for them, we will have a short lesson in basic biology. Very short, I promise, so bear with me! All Snakes are Ectothermic You've probably heard the term "cold-blooded" used to describe snakes and other reptiles. While this term is used to describe a legitimate difference between reptiles and other animals, it's not entirely accurate. It's not that reptiles have cold blood circulating through their veins -- but that they are unable to heat themselves up the way mammals do. Reptiles are ectothermic, which means they get their body heat from outside their bodies. "Ecto" means from without. Thus, reptiles rely upon external heat sources. In the wild, reptiles will bask under the sun and lay on warm surfaces to elevate their body temperature. The sun heats them from above, and the warm surfaces (that have also been soaking up the sun) heat them from below. This helps the reptile maintain proper body temperature for necessary functions such as digestion. On the contrary, we humans are endothermic mammals. "Endo" means from within. Although we also get heat from the sun, we generate most of our body heat from within our bodies. Thus, we do not rely as heavily on external heat sources, the way reptiles do. Sometimes, like when our bodies are fighting off illness, we can heat ourselves too much. This is called running a fever, and it is another example of our internal heating system. To further differentiate these two heating "systems" (of reptiles and humans) consider the following scenario: Let's say I am standing outside holding a snake in a plastic, unheated container. The air temperature outside is 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If you took my body temperature, it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 98 degrees -- much


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warmer than the air temperature. That's because my body can partially heat itself from within. However, if you measured the snake's core body temperature, it would be much closer to the 60-degree air temperature outside (depending on how long it had been outside, how sunny or cloudy it was, etc.). That's too cold for a snake to stay active. In the wild, this snake would find a dark hiding spot somewhere and go into brumation -- a state of reduced body activity, similar to hibernation. What This Means to You, as a Snake Keeper Okay, the science lesson is over. Now we can get back to Ball Python Care 101. Here's what all of this means to you, as a keeper of ball pythons. You must provide a heat source and maintain proper cage temperatures to keep you snake healthy. You can provide heat and maintain temperatures in a number of ways, just so long as you do it. If your snake's cage is too cold or too hot, it might seem that everything is okay at first. But in time, your snake's health will begin to deteriorate. It will likely stop eating. It may develop any number of illnesses, such as respiratory infections. This will continue until the snake perishes. Of course, this is all very easy to prevent. Just maintain proper temperatures. Easy! Read three different books or articles on ball python care, and you are liable to get three different temperature ranges recommended by the authors. For example:

Author Website Temperature

Ken Felsman www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide 82 - 90 (F)

Unknown www.newenglandreptile.com/CareBall.html 78 - 92 (F)

Dave / Tracy Barker www.vpi.com/publications/the_ball_python_care_sheet 77 - 88 (F)

LLL Reptile www.lllreptile.com 80 - 95 (F)

My own preference www.ReptileKnowledge.com 80 - 95 (F)

So let's average these numbers out. If your ball python has a temperature gradient of 78 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the cooler side, and 88 - 92 degrees on the warmer basking side, you're in good shape. You can achieve such a thermal gradient or range by putting the heating device on only one side of the cage.


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It's okay if you encounter minor variations in recommended temperatures when conducting further research. It's not an exact science, and that's why the authors (myself included) often use words like "approximately" and "about" when recommending a temperature range. With that being said, there is a certain temperature "zone" in which ball pythons are known to do well. Stay inside this zone, and your snake will fare well. Venture too far outside of this zone, and your ball python will begin to have health problems. You can see my preference in the table shown above. My ball pythons did best when I had a range of about 80 degrees to 95 degrees (Fahrenheit). I would run the heat 24 hours a day to achieve this. The temperature would drop a few degrees at night, as the house naturally cooled. Then it would warm back up to my optimum temperatures during the day. Under these conditions, my ball pythons are healthy, active and eating regularly. You'll notice that I mentioned a cooler side and a warmer side. This brings us to the concept of thermoregulation. In the wild, snakes will thermoregulate by seeking warmth when they need it, and moving to cooler areas when they are too warm. For example, a snake in the wild will often bask on top of a rock or log to soak up warmth from the sun, and then retreat to a shady spot when it needs to cool down again. My point is this. The natural world gives ball pythons options for temperature selection, so you should do the same when keeping one in captivity. Here's the good news. Giving your ball python a temperature range (or "gradient") is very easy to do. For example, let's assume you have a room that's around 72 degrees Fahrenheit, and that you put a heating unit on one end of the snake's cage to elevate the temperature to around 92 degrees. If you do this, you'll probably end up with a temperature range of around 78 - 80 (F) on the cooler side, and 92 on the warmer side. (The heating device will increase the temperature of the cooler side too, even though it doesn't sit on that side of the cage.) These temperatures are ideal for ball pythons. Easy enough, right? You can heat your snake's cage in several ways. The option you choose will be partly determined by the type of cage you have. We will talk more about this in a moment. For now, let's look at the different ways you can heat a snake cage.


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Heat lamps -- These are either incandescent (white light) or infrared (red light) lamps placed on top of the snake cage, and shining down into it. These lamps must be used with a partially clear top, such as a screen lid.

Ceramic elements -- This approach is similar to the heat lamp approach. But

instead of screwing a light bulb into a reflective hood, you would use a ceramic heating element. These elements put off heat, but no light.

Under-tank heat pads -- These adhesive pads stick to the underside of the

snake cage and then plug in to provide heat. With this option, the heat rises from the ground up, thus it's a form of "belly heat."

Under-tank heat tape -- The same heating method as above, only it uses strips

of tape instead of a pad. A product called Flexwatt is the most popular type of heat tape used in the reptile industry.

All of the heating options listed above have the following things in common:

They can all be applied to one side of the cage, allowing for a temperature range like we discussed earlier. You can put a heat lamp or ceramic element at one end of the cage, the same as you could apply a heat pad or tape to one end of the cage. This creates the thermal gradient that snakes need.

They can all be used with a rheostat (similar to a lamp dimmer) that allows

you to control the amount of heat they produce. They are all fairly easy to obtain, especially the bulbs and ceramic

elements.

They all produce the same effect, though in slightly different ways. They all increase the temperature of your ball python's habitat in a controllable way.

They are all sufficient forms of heat to keep your snake healthy.

You may have to experiment with different heating options to see which one works best for you. Results will vary based on the type of cage you use, the type of substrate in the cage, the location of the cage within your home, your local climate and other factors. For the most part, heating units are relatively inexpensive (as compared to the cage itself). So it won't "break the bank" to experiment with two or three heating methods. In fact, I recommend this kind of experimentation. Only by trying


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different methods can you can find the one that works best for your ball python habitat. You need to do whatever it takes to achieve optimum temperatures. Some cages and rack systems come with heat built in. In most cases, this means there will be a strip of Flexwatt heat tape (or a similar product) pre-installed under a panel in the cage floor. I have used several cages like this over the years, but I will never buy another one. Here's why. Like any kind of electrical device, heating elements have a shelf life. At some point in the future, they will fail, break, burn out, or otherwise cease to function. So that means you'll have to remove the faulty heating unit, replace it with a new one, and put the enclosure back together again. No thanks. So, after decades of experimentation with reptile enclosures, I prefer to use external heating elements that are easier to replace. For example, if a lamp burns out on my Vision cage, I simply lift the lamp unit out of the receptacle on top of the cage, swap the bulb, and get on with life. It's a 60-second operation. Nighttime Heat Drops In captivity, as in the wild, it's natural for the temperature to drop at night. I generally keep my heat lamps on most of the time, with a four-hour period of outage in the middle of the night. I do this simply to give the light bulbs a break each day, to prolong their life. The question many snake-keepers ask is, do you need to drop the temperature at night? Here's my answer to that question: Most houses will cool down at night, simply because the sun has set. So even if you leave your heating device on around the clock (or nearly around the clock), the cage will experience a natural cooling at night simply because the entire house has cooled down with the setting of the sun. For basic snake care, this kind of natural drop in temperature is sufficient. Of course, if you plan to breed your ball pythons in the future, then temperature drops will become more important. That's because they play a role in conditioning ball pythons for the breeding season. This practice is referred to as "cycling." Cooling and Cycling Snakes As I've stated before, this book is not a guide to ball python breeding. That's another book entirely, and there are plenty of those books on the market already.


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With this book, my singular purpose is to make you an excellent ball python keeper -- not an excellent snake breeder. But I want to briefly mention "cooling" and "cycling" because you are bound to encounter these terms in your continued research, and I don't want you to be confused by them. Cooling and cycling are techniques used by snake breeders to make their snakes more inclined to breed, and more capable of doing so. Cooling is the act of lowering overall temperatures toward the breeding season, to duplicate what happens in the wild (seasonal change). In addition to temperature cooling, this process often includes a gradual reduction in the snake's photoperiod, or the amount of light it receives each day. Again, the goal here is to duplicate the seasonal changes that occur in nature, and to make the ball pythons more inclined to mate with each other. This overall annual process is referred to as "cycling" snakes for the breeding season, and it's often used in conjunction with a reduced feeding schedule as well. Here's what you need to know as a keeper of ball pythons: You can maintain a healthy ball python without cooling or cycling your snakes. You can keep your ball python at a constant temperature range year-round if you want, as I have done for many years. Even with constant temperatures in the snake's cage, the natural cooling of your house at night and in the winter will offer something of a "season" for the captive snake. However, if you plan to breed your snake some day, you will want to learn more about cooling and cycling.

Interested in Breeding Ball Pythons? The reason this book contains more care information than similar books on the market is because I have focused exclusively on the subject of ball python care. If, however, you become interested in breeding ball pythons in the future, there is another book that will make the perfect companion to this one -- Ball Pythons in Captivity, by Kevin McCurley. You can find it on Amazon.com and other online book sellers.

Okay. So you need to maintain a certain temperature range within your ball python's habitat, and there are several devices that can help you do this. But how do you measure the temperature? How do you adjust it to the level you need? Let's talk about thermometers and rheostats.


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Measuring Cage Temperature Obviously, you will need a way to measure the temperature in your ball python's cage. How else will you know if you are maintaining proper temperatures inside the habitat? There are several products to help you do this. Here's an overview of the different types of thermometers and temperature products available. Adhesive thermometer strips -- These are basically thermometers in the form

of peel-and-place stickers. You peel the backing off and stick the strip onto the inside of the cage (down at ground level, where the snake spends most of its time). Readouts are generally in five-degree increments. You can find these in most pet stores and at various reptile-supply websites.

Digital thermometers with probe -- With this option, you would place a small

thermometer probe inside the cage, and that probe would pass temperature readings to a digital display unit outside of the cage. Usually, the probe is connected to the display by a thin wire, but wireless versions are available.

Temperature guns -- This portable handheld device allows you to "shoot" the

temps in your cage. You simply put the device close to ground level inside the cage, push the button, and an infrared beam will measure the temperature (which is then displayed for you on the unit's readout area). You can find these at reptile shows, reptile specialty stores, and online at reptile-supply websites. Check out the supplies page I mentioned above too!

So which thermometer device is best for you? My advice is to use more than one. You can always benefit from having multiple thermometers, and here's why: All of my Vision cages have a thermometer strip at each end (the adhesive peel-and-place kind). But I also "shoot" the cage temperatures a couple times a week using a temperature gun. This gives me more exact readings throughout the cage, while also validating what the thermometer strips are telling me. Lastly, I have a digital thermometer mounted on the wall in my snake room to keep track of the room temperature and humidity as well. So you can see that I have several ways to keep track of my room temperatures and cage temperatures. Due to the relatively inexpensive nature of these thermometer products, I recommend you use more than one product. After all, if you only have one thermometer, how will you know if it's accurate or not? By having multiple units, you can validate the readings of any one unit. Truth be told, I actually shoot my cage temps with two temperature guns at the same time, like a cowboy with twin six-shooters. That's how adamant I am about


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validating temperature readings. If my two temp guns give me wildly different readings, I know that one of the devices is not working properly. I could then compare the temp gun readings to the thermometer strips, or to a third temperature gun, to find out which unit needs to be thrown away. Why do I care so much about temps? Because it's one of the most important aspects of snake care. If your ball python's cage is too cold or too warm, the snake's health will begin to deteriorate. It's that simple.

It's Quick Tip Time: Proper temperatures are essential to your snake's health. So don't get complacent and forget to keep track of your temps. Check them daily, even if it's just a quick look inside the cage at your thermometer strips. And do a more thorough sampling about once a week to validate the quick readings.

Okay. So that explains how to measure cage temperatures. But how do you control them? How do you "tweak" the output from your heating device to get the exact temperatures you want? You can do this by using a rheostat, and that's our next topic of discussion. Using Rheostats to Control Temperature Depending on the type of heating device you select, you may need to use a rheostat as well. This will give you a greater degree of control over your heating device. A rheostat is a device that allows you to control the amount of electricity flowing to your heat device, thereby controlling the amount of heat output. It's basically the same thing as the dimmer switch on a lamp or light fixture -- they both limit the amount of electricity that reaches the device. To use a rheostat, you simply plug it into a wall outlet near your snake's enclosure. Then you plug the heating device into the rheostat, and dial it up or down as needed. Turning the rheostat down will reduce the heat output from the heating device, thereby lowering the temperature. Turning the rheostat up will increase the heat output. You can see the benefit this has, as far as controlling your cage temps. How do you know if you need a rheostat? Just plug your heating device directly into a wall outlet, let it warm up to full power, and measure the temperatures in the cage. If it's too hot (above, say, 96 degrees on the warm side), then you should use a rheostat to reduce the heat output.


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On the other hand, if the temperature inside the cage is too low with the device on full power, then the heating device may not be strong enough for the size / type of cage you have. In this case, you will need to get a larger device with higher wattage to properly heat the cage. Like I said, it will take some trial and error to get it just right. That's why you should spend some time experimenting with your cage setup and temperatures before you bring the snake home. Play around with it. Try different heating devices. Measure the temperatures during the day and night. Think of it as a full-dress rehearsal before the actual show.

It's Quick Tip Time: It's usually easier to control temperatures inside a plastic cage that is enclosed all the way around (with only a small gap for airflow). Glass terrariums with screen tops, on the other hand, make it harder to control temperatures because of the open nature of the screen tops. You can minimize this by partially covering the screen top on a glass terrarium.


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Heating Your Snake's Cage - Conclusion and Summary This is such an important element of snake care, I'd like to take a moment and summarize what we have learned in this section. All snakes are ecothermic, meaning they rely on their environment (and their

keepers) to regulate their body temperature. As a snake keeper, you must make sure your ball python's habitat has proper

temperatures year round. Proper temperatures for ball pythons are upper 70s to low 80s (Fahrenheit) on

the cooler side, and upper 80s to low 90s on the warmer side. My idea of the perfect gradient for ball pythons is 80 on the cooler side and 95

on the warmer side. My snakes eat well under these conditions. A snake cage that's too hot is just as bad as one that's too cold. Maintain your

cage temperatures with the range mentioned above. A temperature range or "gradient" will allow your snake to thermoregulate,

moving from warmer to cooler as needed for health and comfort. There are a number of ways to heat a snake cage, such as using a heat lamp, a

ceramic heating element, or an under-the-tank heat pad / tape. You should experiment with different heating methods until you find one that

works best for your particular type of snake cage. A rheostat can help you control your cage temperatures by reducing the

amount of power going to the heating device (thus reducing heat output). There are several ways to measure temperatures inside a snake cage, such as

thermometer strips, digital thermometers with probes, and temperature guns. Using multiple thermometers will allow you to validate the temperature

readings provided by any one thermometer. Get into the habit of doing a basic temperature check once a day, and a

thorough temperature check (using temperature guns) once a week.


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A Few Words About Fire Safety Any discussion about reptile cages (and heating) should include a few words on fire safety. Here are my tips for lowering the risk of fire in or around a ball python cage: Read and follow all safety instructions that come attached to heating elements,

lights, extensions cords, and related products. Use heat lamps with hoods that are rated for the bulb's wattage. For example,

never use a 200-watt heat lamp bulb in a hood that is only rated for 120 watts maximum.

Keep heating devices out of direct contact with paper, fabric, wood and other

flammable materials. Consider keeping a small fire extinguisher in your snake room, especially if

you have a large collection with multiple cages, heaters, etc. Do not overload wall outlets with too many electrical devices. It's one of the

most common causes of house fires. Use timers to turn heating devices off for a portion of the day to cool down,

even if it's just for an hour or so. Use rheostats to control the output of powerful heating devices. Certain

products, such as Flexwatt tape, can get extremely hot at full power (hotter than necessary for proper cage temperatures). Control them using a rheostat.

Do not use heating devices that are broken or worn out. For example, frayed

electrical wires, loose light fixtures, and damaged heat pads should be thrown out and replaced. Do not try to "rig" broken heating devices to extend their lives. Replace them.

Common sense goes a long way toward lowering the risk of fire. If it doesn't

seem like a good idea, it probably isn't. I don't include this information to scare you, but only to make you cautious. For the vast majority of snake keepers, fires never become a problem. But it only takes one careless error or oversight for you to become part of the statistical minority. Be vigilant about the way you use your heating products and electrical products, and you'll probably never have any problems.


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Humidity in Ball Python Habitats Like all captive snakes, ball pythons need a certain amount of relative humidity inside their cages. This helps them stay hydrated, and it also helps them shed their skin. Fortunately, it's fairly simple to maintain proper humidity levels inside a ball python's enclosure. Ball pythons are not tropical snakes, so they do not need a high level of humidity. In fact, they can live comfortably in what's considered normal humidity in most parts of the United States. So what is "normal" humidity, and how do you know if your snake is getting it? Let's take a closer look at humidity in snake habitats. When ball pythons are housed in environments that are too dry, the first sign is incomplete shedding. A healthy snake in an ideal captive environment will normally shed its skin in one long piece (sort of like when you turn a sock inside-out and pull it from your foot). This is what you want to happen. But when the humidity is too low, or the snake is dehydrated for some other reason, the shed will often come off in many broken pieces. The snake will also be more likely to retain parts of the shed skin, which can build up over time. This can become a problem, especially if the snake retains the "eye cap" areas of skin over its eyes (we will talk more about shed retention later in this book). Ball pythons do well with moderate humidity, in the 40% - 60% range. In many homes in the United States, the humidity level may be near this level already, without any extra effort. But there are two scenarios that can lower the humidity level inside a home, and inside the snake's enclosure as well... 1. The winter months -- In the winter, most homes use artificial heat, such as a heat pump or a gas furnace. Home heating can really dry out the air and lower humidity levels. There's also less natural humidity in the winter, at least in most regions. So this is a time when ball python habitats may need extra attention. 2. Arid environments -- If you live in an arid environment, such as Arizona, you will probably have to do something to increase the humidity in your ball python's habitat. Your environment is drier than what the snake is used to. Let's say you live in Georgia or Florida, or some other place with high humidity. You might think you don't have to worry about humidity. This is true to a certain extent. But a more accurate statement is that you don't have to worry as much about humidity. You still need to monitor humidity levels, how easily your snake sheds, etc. Remember, the humidity outside your home and humidity inside the


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snake's cage are two different things entirely. When we seal up our homes and artificially cool and heat them, we create a different climate (and humidity level) than what we experience outside the home. Tips for Maintaining Humidity If the humidity level in your snake room remains at around 40% to 60%, you might not need to do anything. In this case, just monitor your snake at shedding time to see if it sheds easily (mostly one piece), or if it has trouble shedding (lots of broken pieces). On the other hand, if the humidity in your snake habitat is lower than 40% on average, and the snake has trouble shedding completely, then you'll need to do something about it. Now for the good news. There are some very easy things you can do to increase the level of humidity inside your ball python's enclosure. Here's a list of them. First, you need to know what the humidity level is in the room. Most garden

centers such as Home Depot sell hygrometers, which are similar to thermometers except they measure humidity levels (displayed as a percentage). Put one of these in your snake room.

You might also want to mount a smaller hygrometer inside the actual cage. If

you have an all-plastic cage, for example, the humidity level inside the cage might be different from the humidity level in the room where the cage sits.

If you find that humidity levels are low, you can do one of two things -- you

can increase humidity in the room as a whole, or just within the cage itself. You can increase a room's humidity simply by using a regular household

humidifier. You can probably get one at Target for around $30. If you use some form of under-the-tank heating, like a heat mat or tape, you

can move the snake's water bowl over the heated floor of the cage. This will increase the cage humidity a little.

You can also create a moisture box by partially filling a small Rubbermaid

box with damp paper towels or sphagnum moss. Next, cut a small hole into the lid of the box so the snake can crawl in and out as needed. Then put the box inside the snake's cage and leave it. The snake may or may not use it, but at least it will have the option. Make sure the material inside is only slightly damp, and not wet -- wring out the paper towels or sphagnum moss first.


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If you are having trouble controlling humidity inside a glass terrarium with a screen lid, you might try covering half of the lid with a piece of plastic of some kind. If you are also using a moisture box, put the moisture box under the covered half of the cage. This will slow the rate at which the box dries out, and the rate at which moisture escapes the cage.

Lastly, make sure your ball python has drinking water available at all times.

This is your first line of defense against dehydration and shedding problems. Ball Pythons and Humidity - Conclusion and Summary So let's wrap up our discussion of humidity with a quick recap. Humidity in the average range of 40% to 60% will be comfortable to ball pythons and will help them shed their skin easily, in one long piece. The first step to maintaining humidity levels is to know what they are in the first place. Invest in a quality hygrometer (a thermometer-like device used to measure humidity levels) and put it in your snake room. You might also consider placing a smaller hygrometer inside the snake cage, at least occasionally to check humidity levels inside the cage itself. If you spend a little more, you can get a nice digital hygrometer with a thermometer as well. These are great for snake rooms, because you can see both the temperature and the humidity level at a glance. You can find these multipurpose devices at most garden centers, Home Depot stores, Lowe's, etc. Monitor how your snake sheds its skin. If it sheds easily in one long piece, the humidity levels are probably ideal. If the snake sheds in many pieces, or retains pieces of the old skin, then you need to conduct a humidity "investigation" -- as well as a general health and habitat investigation. Shedding is one of the best indicators of whether the humidity is too low or just right. If you need to increase humidity levels, you can do so in several ways. Two of the easiest ways are to (A) use a regular household humidifier in the snake room, or (B) create a moisture box for your snake and place it inside the cage as needed.


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Lighting Your Ball Python's Enclosure This lesson will be shorter than the temperature and humidity lessons, because it's a simple one. Here's the gist of the lighting issue: In captivity, a ball python can live a long, healthy life without any special lighting. Heat is more important than lighting. Some reptiles (especially lizards and turtles) need full-spectrum lighting for health. But snakes do not need it as much. Nocturnal snakes, such as ball pythons, need it even less. In the wild, ball pythons are mostly active at night. They spend most of the daylight hours hiding in holes or other shelters. So you do not need to provide any full-spectrum lighting (UVA + UVB) for your ball python. With that being said, you may want to use a fluorescent light for daytime viewing. But this is more for you than for the snake. Just make sure the light goes off at night, so the snake can have a normal day / night cycle. If you want to use a fluorescent light on your ball python's cage, I recommend putting it on a timer so you don't forget to turn it off each night. You can buy a lamp timer at any hardware store (and even some grocery stores). This will make things easier for you. Just set the timer so that the fluorescent light comes on for about ten hours a day, using the natural rise and set of the sun as your guide. After that, it's a convenient "hands-off" process -- the timer turns the light on in the morning, and turns it off in the evening.


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Ball Python Cage Furniture -- Bowls, Hides and Climbs So far, we have talked about choosing a type of cage for your ball python, choosing a substrate material, heating the cage and lighting it. But what about the other items that go into the cage? What kind of "furniture" does a ball python need? That's what we will talk about in this next section of the book -- furniture items you can put into your ball python's habitat to improve its health and wellbeing. Most cage items fall into one of three categories, two of which are essential: Water bowls -- a necessary item Hides / houses -- a necessary item Climbing furniture -- an optional item

So let's talk about each of these three items in more detail. Water Bowls Water bowls usually get glossed over in most ball python guides. But I promised you a very thorough guide to ball python care, so here's everything you need to know about this subject. It's important to provide clean drinking water to your snake at all times. You might not see your snake drinking very often, as they tend to be secretive animals. But you should make sure it has the option to drink anytime it wants. Some people will say you should offer water three days a week, or every other day. I say, why make things complicated? That would be one more thing to keep track of, with regard to snake maintenance. So it's best for your snake (and easiest for you) to leave a bowl of clean water in the cage at all times. When your snake is thirsty, it should be able to drink. And how can you possibly predict when a snake will be thirsty? You can't. So have water available at all times. Choose a water bowl that is appropriately sized for your snake, with a wider bottom to avoid tipping. In my opinion, plastic (or a plastic composite material) is the best material for water bowls. A plastic bowl is easy to clean and will probably last the entire life of your snake, if you take care of it. Many of the modern plastic bowls are also designed to be bacteria resistant, which is another plus.


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Ball pythons will sometimes soak in their water bowls, especially when they are going into a shed cycle. So the bowl should be large enough to all for this. If your ball python soaks in its bowl a lot, there are two things to keep in mind. First of all, you'll have to clean the water bowl more often. If the snake is using it for soaking and drinking, it needs to be cleaned every two or three days. Secondly, and more importantly, is the humidity factor. If your snake soaks in the bowl a lot, it may be a sign that the relative humidity is too low inside the cage. Measure the humidity inside the cage with a hygrometer, and take the appropriate steps if it's too low. We talked about how to do this a few pages ago. The best place to find water bowls is in the pet food section of your grocery store, Target store, or pet store. Bowls made for dogs and cats work just as well for snakes. I've been using the same type of water bowls for nearly a decade, for all seven of my snakes. I find them at Target, but I've seen the same product in Petco and even my local grocery store. It's made of "Microban" plastic, which the manufacturer claims is resistant to bacteria. But more importantly, it's durable and long lasting. It also has a rubber, non-skip lining around the bottom, which helps it stay in place when snakes crawl over it. (It's important to choose a water bowl that "sits" well in the cage and is not inclined to turn over.) This bowl is also extremely smooth inside, with no pores. This makes cleaning much easier. Porous or textured materials, such as ceramic and stone, are harder to clean thoroughly and thus more inclined to harbor bacteria. So let's summarize our discussion of water bowls, before moving on to other furniture items. The ideal water bowl is made of thick, sturdy and smooth plastic (or a plastic composite). It should be wider at the bottom than at the top, or at least bottom-heavy, to prevent tipping. You can probably find a bowl that meets these requirements at your local grocery store, Target store, or pet store. Snake Hides A hide is exactly what it sounds like. It's a piece of cage furniture that gives the snake a place to hide and feel safe. Hides can be as simple or as elaborate as you want, just so long as they fulfill one basic purpose. They must give your ball python a dark and secure place to go in order to feel safe, where even you cannot see them. Several times in this book, we have talked about duplicating a snake's natural habitat, with regard to heating. Hides are another area where this becomes


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important. In the wild, ball pythons have plenty of places to hide. They can often be found in underground burrows made by tortoises and other animals. So a ball python in captivity should also have places to hide. Snakes in general are secretive animals, and ball pythons are particularly "shy." In nature, they basically move from one hiding place to another in search of food, while trying to avoid becoming food at the same time. Think about the number of birds and squirrels you see in the wild, compared to the number of snakes you see in the wild, and you'll have a clear picture of this. Snakes like to hide! When snakes have a place to retreat, they will feel more secure in their surroundings and will be more inclined to practice their natural habits, such as eating. So simply by providing hides in your ball python's habitat, you will greatly increase the chance that the snake will eat regularly. One hide is good, but having two is even better. I recommend putting one on the warmer side, and one on the cooler side. This will encourage the natural act of thermoregulation that we talked about earlier, because the snake will have a secure place on both sides of the cage. Many people use cardboard hides (such as paper towel rolls, shoeboxes, etc.). But I don't recommend this. Cardboard soaks up water, urine and fecal matter, and is thus a perfect breeding ground for harmful bacteria. You can't wash cardboard either, so you'll be replacing your hides continuously. On the other hand, a hide made of plastic, ceramic or stone can be washed as needed. So these types of hides will last a long time, probably for the entire life of your ball python. It's also important to choose a hide that will stay in place inside the cage. You don't want it to slide around when the snake tries to enter it. The snake will feel more secure if the hide stays put. If you're using a substrate like aspen shavings or cypress mulch, you can wedge the hide down into the substrate material to keep it in place. If you put the hide on newspaper, it will have to be heavy in order to stay in place. I know it sounds like I'm nitpicking here, but these are important details. If your ball python has a "retreat" within the cage, it will feel more secure in its environment. When it feels more secure, it will be less likely to refuse meals. This is a big deal, because ball pythons are known for refusing meals from time to time. You can increase your snake's feeding response by providing a good environment. This alone is worth the effort. And it's not much of an effort, after all.


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Reptile supply companies create hides designed with snakes in mind, but you can also find a suitable hide just about anywhere. Use your imagination, and keep the following criteria in mind: A snake hide should be made of a durable, long-lasting material that is also

easy to clean. A hide should be solid (not transparent) all the way around, with only a small

opening / entrance for the snake. A hide should be the appropriate size to allow the snake to fit snuggly inside.

If the hide is a lot larger than the snake, it defeats the purpose. Because of this, you'll have to "upgrade" your hides over the years as your snake grows.

For years, I have used plastic drip trays for snake hides. These are the shallow dish-like trays that go under plant pots to catch water runoff. They come in a variety of sizes, and you can find them in most garden centers, such as Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. They are most often a terra-cotta orange color, made to look like actual terra-cotta ceramic. This works fine, because it gives the snake a totally dark and secure place to hide. Preparing these trays to be used as snake hides is a simple matter as well. You just cut a small entryway with a pair of scissors (just a little larger than the widest part of your snake's body). Then simply place the drip tray upside down in the snake's cage, and you've got a nice little snake hide. If you use newspaper as a substrate, you'll have to weight the hide down or wedge it into a corner with a heavier item such as a ceramic log, because the trays themselves are lightweight and will slide around as the snake enters and exits. If you are using aspen shavings or Carefresh bedding (or a similar substrate), you can just nestle the hide down into the shavings a bit to keep it in place. This is just one example of a common household product being used as a snake hide. Many other products would work equally as well. Just be sure you wash anything you use, before introducing it to the snake's cage. Pet stores also sell half-logs made from actual wood that can be used as hides, but there are two things I dislike about them. For one thing, they are wide open on two sides, which defeats the purpose of a hide to begin with. Secondly, wood and tree bark are much harder to clean than plastic, ceramic or stone, which means wood is also more likely to harbor bacteria. I recommend sticking with plastic or ceramic.


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Snake Hides - Summary and Conclusion So let's sum up what we have learned about snake hides. Your ball python will feel more secure in its habitat if it has places to hide. In fact, a ball python habitat is not a true habitat until it has some hiding areas. Captive snakes that feel secure in their environments are less likely to suffer from stress-related illnesses, and less likely to refuse meals, etc. That's your motivation for creating hiding areas. You can use your imagination to make a hide from many household products, or you can buy a hide made specifically for snakes. Cardboard does not make a good hide, because it has to be replaced often due to becoming soiled. A good snake hide is solid and secure all the way around, with only a small opening for the snake to enter and exit. A hide should be an appropriate size so that the snake can fit snuggly inside (just a little larger than the snake when coiled up). As such, you will have to replace hides as your snake grows. But keep the outgrown hides in case you get another baby snake in the future ... they are addictive, you know!

Quick Tip Time: As you've probably noticed, many of the qualities that make a good snake bowl can also be applied to a snake hide. Both types of furniture should be stable, easy to clean and durable.


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Snake Climbs In the wild, ball pythons do not spend much time climbing. They are ground-dwelling snakes that spend most of their time hiding under things (or underground). What does this mean to you, as a ball python keeper? It means that climbing furniture is optional. A piece of climbing furniture is not necessary to the health of your captive snake -- not the way water bowls and hides are necessary -- but it may enhance your snake's habitat. So feel free to experiment. There really aren't any down sides to providing a climb. There is no harm in offering your ball python something to climb on. Will the snake actually use the climbing furniture? There's only one way to find out. Experiment. Most of the ball pythons I have owned spent all of their time on the ground, but I do recall one that climbed around his cage quite often. In my experience, younger snakes climb more than adult snakes. It's easy to see why. Adult pythons can be pretty stocky, so they're not really "built" for arboreal activity. Here's the bottom line on climbing furniture. Ball pythons are not known to be climbers, but it certainly doesn't hurt to offer your snake something to climb on. You might find that your ball python is one of the exceptions to the rule. As with other cage furniture, you have a lot of options for creating or purchasing climbs. Driftwood works well, though it's a bit challenging to clean properly. You can also purchase artificial vines made of rubber that be bent in different ways. Just be sure to anchor these vines firmly so they don't tip over as easily. If you use an overhead source, such as a heat lamp, the climbing furniture gives the snake another temperature option as well. The snake can easily climb up the furniture to get closer to the heat source. There are three safety issues to consider when using climbs:

1. As I mentioned, you should anchor them as securely as possible so they don't tip over all the time.

2. You should not place a hide so close to an overhead heating device that a snake could potentially burn itself.

3. You should use caution when placing hides in a cage with a screen lid. Captive snakes have been known to rub their noses on these screens, which can cause injury over time.


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Cage Furniture - Summary and Conclusion So let's sum up our discussion of climbing furniture, and cage furniture in general. Water bowls and hides are essential items in a ball python's habitat. They should be available at all times and kept clean (especially the water bowl). We will talk a lot more about cleaning in the "Snake Maintenance" chapter. Climbing furniture, on the other hand, is optional. Throughout this chapter, I have mentioned several ways to create cage furniture out of household items. I've also mentioned some websites where you can purchase cage furniture and have it shipped to you. Here's a list of such sites. ZooMed.com

Petco.com

PetSmart.com

BigAppleHerp.com

DrsFosterSmith.com

ReptileSupply.com

HerpSupplies.com

ReptileDirect.com

Note: If you try a website from this list and find that it no longer exists, please let me know so I can update the e-book for future readers. Send comments to [email protected]. Cage Security Considerations Cage security is a two-way street, and both directions are important. You must prevent your ball python from escaping its cage, obviously. But you must also keep other things, such as pets and small children, out of the snake's cage. But one thing at a time. Let's talk first about keeping your ball python from escaping its enclosure. Preventing Escapes It is your duty to be a responsible snake keeper, and part of that responsibility is preventing escapes. When a snake gets out of its cage, several things can happen -- and none of them are good. If you have a dog or cat, there's a good chance the snake could be bitten or otherwise injured. Additionally, if the snake gets lost inside your house somewhere, there's a good chance it will die.


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Granted, ball pythons are relatively small snakes. So an escapee won't eat pets, terrify neighbors, or wind up on the news (which sometimes happens with reticulated and Burmese pythons). But it's still extremely important to prevent an escape, mainly for the sake of your snake's health. You've probably heard this before, but I have to say it. All snakes are escape artists, and that goes for ball pythons as well. It's not that snakes are exceptionally smart (like a parrot that knows how to unlatch its cage). It's just that snakes don't need much of an opening to get out. And they will explore their habitats over and over again, looking for such an opening. Ball pythons are also incredibly strong, with muscles down the entire length of their body. When you combine these two factors, you have the potential for a fugitive snake! Here's a general rule regarding snake escapes. If the head can fit, the whole body can fit. So all your ball python needs to escape is a hole or crevice the size of its head (slightly wider than a quarter). Here's how to make sure your ball python stays inside its cage:

1. Use a cage designed specifically for snakes or other reptiles. These cages are designed to be as escape-proof as possible.

2. When using a cage designed for reptiles, keep all latches or clasps secured

at all times.

3. If you use a glass terrarium with a screen or mesh lid, make sure the lid has clamps to keep it secure. If you can force a crevice or lift the screen with your finger, the snake can probably do the same with its head.

4. If possible, create double security by keeping your snake cage in an escape-

proof room in your house. 5. Don't turn your back on an opened cage. "Just for a minute" is all the time

your snake needs to exit the cage. Preventing Intrusion So that covers the importance of keeping your snake inside its cage. Now let's talk about the importance of keeping intruders out.


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If you have small children, dogs or cats, then you have another reason to focus on cage security. Ball pythons pose no serious threat to children or pets -- it's usually the other way around. A toddler or small child, for example, could accidentally drop a feisty snake that they pulled from a cage, resulting in injury or escape for the snake. Dogs and cats could try to get at the snake out of curiosity, or perhaps even with predatory motives. Once again, the solution to all of this is simple. Keep snake cages beyond the reach of small children and pets. Teach older children the rules of snake handling, which is covered in Chapter 4 coming up. If necessary, use a cage with a lock on it to prevent unwanted intrusions. Lessons Learned on Housing Ball Pythons Now that you understand the five components of a ball python habitat (cage, substrate, heating, lighting and furniture), I'd like to offer some of the lessons I've learned over the years. Hopefully, this list will save you some time and energy in caring for your ball python, and make your snake healthier in the long run. When using an adhesive heat strip or pad beneath a glass-bottom cage /

terrarium, plug the device into a rheostat to reduce the heat output. Often, a heat pad or tape running on full power can get hot enough to crack the glass that it's applied to.

In my experience, ball pythons eat more consistently and seem more "at ease"

in cages that offer plenty of privacy. This is the primary reason I use plastic cages that only have one clear side (the front).

When you first bring your ball python home, leave it alone for about a week

so it can adjust to its new surroundings. Make sure it has a proper environment with heat, water and hiding places, and then leave it alone.

Habitat setup is a balance of maintenance and appearance. Simple setups are

easier to clean. Complex setups take longer to clean. Find your ideal balance. Placing a plastic cover over half or two-thirds of a screen top can help control

both temperature and humidity inside the cage. Just keep fire safety and air circulation in mind when doing this.


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Use caution in rooms that receive direct sunlight at warmer times of day. Snake enclosures can overheat in such situations (sort of like a greenhouse effect). Keep track of temperatures and let common sense guide you.

Complacency is the enemy of proper snake care. Create a schedule to check

temps and general cage status on a regular basis -- daily is best. Get your cage all set up and experiment with heating devices and temperature

control, before bringing your new snake home. Sometimes, it takes a couple of days of trial and error to get it right. You don't want the snake to endure wild temperature fluctuations as you're trying to get it just right.

Check the filaments of heat bulbs before leaving the pet store. Sometimes the

bulbs on the shelves will have broken filaments (a useless bulb). This completes the chapter of creating a proper habitat. In the next chapter, you'll learn how to handle your ball python.


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Chapter 3 - Handling Your Ball Python


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Ball Python Handling I remember when I bought my first pet snake, many moons ago. I was frustrated that none of the snake care manuals talked about handling the snake. It's easy to understand why -- the authors are expert snake handlers, and may have forgotten about the uncertainty they had the first time they picked up their new snake. But I know for a fact that handling a ball python is a topic of great concern among first-time snake keepers. People email me all the time asking about this very subject. So I've included a short chapter on the topic of handling. Even if you already have a ball python, and you've been handling it on a regular basis, I recommend that you stick with me through this chapter. I promise you'll learn something new. Here's everything you need to know about handling your ball python: It's Okay to Be Nervous at First If you are nervous about picking your snake up from its cage for the first time, you can take solace in the fact that you're not alone. I would venture an unscientific guess that 98% of snake keepers were nervous about picking up their snakes for the first time, after bringing them home. So let's begin this chapter by making one thing clear -- it's okay to be nervous when handling your ball python for the first time, or even the first few times. Most people are. But I promise you'll get over it with time and repetition. Here's something else you can take comfort from... Ball Pythons Have Good Temperaments Generally speaking, ball pythons have gentle dispositions and are very reluctant to bite. Of course, there are always exceptions to this rule, but they are rare. By and large, captive-bred ball pythons are docile snakes that are easy to handle. (Note: If you happen to have one of those rare ball pythons that strikes a lot, don't worry. I'll tell you how to handle that situation a bit later.) I once heard a veteran snake keeper describe ball pythons as the "Labrador of snakes," referring to the predictable nature of ball pythons as compared to other


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snakes. I think this is a pretty good analogy. As a current or future keeper of ball pythons, you can take heart in all of this. As with most snake species, newborn snakes can be jumpy at first. After all, they just came into the world and are not too sure what's happening. Who can blame them for being a bit timid and jumpy? Fortunately, ball pythons quickly settle down with gentle and regular handling (about once a week or so). As your ball python matures and becomes more accustomed to having you around, it will become even tamer. This is the leading reason why ball pythons are so popular as pets -- they can be some pretty tame snakes! Ball Pythons are Head Shy Ball pythons get their name from the way they curl into a ball whenever they feel threatened. They do this to protect their head. You'll see this behavior soon after bringing your snake home. The snake will curl up into a protective ball and bury its head at the bottom of the "pile." Ball pythons have an instinctive urge to protect their heads. I refer to this as being head shy. So keep this in mind when you handle your ball python. Bottom line: These snakes do not like their heads to be touched. Your ball python will always have this behavior, no matter how long you own it. The behavior may lessen a bit over time, but it will never go away completely. The snake will almost always jerk its head away if you put your hands near it. That's just the way they are, so you have to accept it. The only time when you should handle your ball python's head is while restraining it for some kind of medical treatment -- but that's the subject of a later chapter. So for now, just realize that ball pythons are head shy. They are generally very easy to handle, but you still need to stay away from the head. Point taken? Good. Let's move on. Picking Your Snake Up You might think that picking up a ball python from its cage is a no-brainer. After all, you just reach in and grab it, right? Well, sort of. In reality, there are certain dos and don'ts about picking up a ball python (or any pet snake for that matter). Let's start with the things you should do:


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You might find it helps to use a small- to medium-sized snake hook to retrieve your ball python from its cage. This is a convenient method for picking up a snake from a distance, and it's perfectly safe for both you and the snake. When my snakes are out "cruising" around their cages, and I need to pick them up, I sometimes use a small snake hook (also known as a snake "stick") to get hold of them initially. Then I gently grab hold with the other hand and eventually toss the hook aside. On the other hand, if the ball python is hiding when I go to retrieve it, I'll just pick it straight up with my hands. The snake's body language will dictate which method I use when picking it up. Here's why I use the hook method at times: I feed my snakes inside their cages, as opposed to moving them to a separate feeding box the way some people do. Because of this, a snake might mistake me reaching into the cage as an offering of food. The hook is a way of telling the snake, "It's not food time ... it's handling time." I only use the hook when the snakes are out in the open and facing the cage opening. When a snake is under its hide, it's even easier to pick up. Just lift the hide (slowly so you don't startle the snake), gently grab hold of the mid-body area, and lift the snake using the other hand to support it as well. Picking up a snake that's facing / moving away from you is also very simple. Gently buy firmly grab the snake around mid-body, lift it up, and then support it with both hands. Just be prepared for it to try and crawl away when you first grab it, especially if it's a young snake. Young snakes tend to exhibit more "flight" behavior, or escapism. But this will diminish with age and regular handling. Here are some more tips for handling your ball python: Always support as much of the snake as possible, focusing on the mid-body

area. Snakes tolerate handling better when they feel secure and safe. Never try to grab or pick up a snake by its head. Nearly all snakes are "head

shy," but especially ball pythons. This method could result in being bitten. Don't pick up a snake by the tail alone. The snake could spin or thrash around

in your grip, possibly injuring itself in the process. You'll find your snake relaxes into your grip more if you lift and support it from the mid body.


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Baby snakes will sometimes put on a display when they feel threatened, even "rattling" their tails inside the enclosure. Just remember that it's a harmless animal to you, despite the dramatic display. Be confident in handling the snake, and this behavior will soon disappear.

Always think of your snake's safety first when handling. Use common sense

and be responsible. Do Snakes Like to Be Handled? Many reptile experts will say that pet snakes do not need human contact, the way a dog or cat usually needs it. I think this is only partially true. For one thing, I believe it's impossible for humans to say what animals think or feel with any level of certainty. It's just another sign of our arrogance as a species, if you ask me. Granted, I'll admit that most pet snakes could live long, healthy lives without any contact from their owners (except for what is needed for basic maintenance and cleaning). But who can say if pet snakes truly like or dislike being handled? It's a question that must be answered on a case-by-case basis, as all snakes (like all people) have different "personalities." Let me give you an example. All of my snakes tolerate regular handling, which for me is about once a week. I handle them as needed to clean their cages, show them to curious houseguests, etc. They are used to being handled and they settle down nicely once they realize it's me. They never exhibit flight behavior or try to escape from my grasp. But do they enjoy being handled? I cannot answer this question. I know they tolerate handling and do not seem to fear me anymore, but I cannot say with certainly whether or not they like it -- at least, not for six out of the seven. But for one of the seven snakes that I keep, a large gopher snake named Diego, I can be more certain. After observing Diego for many years, I truly believe that he enjoys human interaction more than the other snakes do (if they do at all). This belief does not come from me projecting human qualities onto my snakes. It comes from the objective observation of multiple snake specimens over a period of years. In other words, I'm not imaging it. When I am in the snake room, Diego will sit by the clear acrylic door to his cage and watch me. It's not always driven by hunger either, because he will behave this way two days after a big meal just as well.


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When I open the cage door, Diego does not even flinch. He knows what's coming. No snake hook is ever necessary as I reach in and lift him. Once in a while, he will actually crawl out of the enclosure and into my waiting hand -- a behavior I have never witnessed with any of my other snakes. Sometimes we cruise around the house, with Diego coiled comfortably around my arms. Sometimes we (or I, at least) will sit and watch TV. I refer to Diego as my "lap snake," in reference to those little dogs that love to perch on their owners' laps. I once watched half a football game with Diego on my lap, without once having to grab him or restrain his escape. My ball pythons also have different temperaments when handled. They all tolerate being held, but one of the four seems more relaxed than they other three. She is usually my "go to" snake whenever somebody wants to see a ball python. I don't mean to sound like a children's book author here. I'm simply making a point about animals -- and we humans who think we know everything about animals. For nearly every species of mammal and bird, there has been a documented example of a human bonding with it. From grizzly bears to bald eagles, select animals have been shown to enjoy human contact in captive conditions. So why should we think so differently of reptiles? I believe the answer lies partly in the expressionless faces of snakes and most lizards. A dog or cat can clearly convey enjoyment through their facial expressions. A snake, however, cannot. But I have been around enough captive snakes for enough years to tell you with the utmost certainty that some snakes enjoy human contact while others simply tolerate it. It's a complex issue that must be considered on a case-by-case basis ... or a snake-by-snake basis. What to Do With Snakes That Strike or Bite Most ball pythons are very docile in nature, and therefore easy to handle. But some specimens can be a bit "unruly" around their keepers. Some ball pythons will strike at (and often bite) their keepers. Sometimes it's a simple mistake, where the ball python thinks it is being fed. Other times, it's just an aggressive snake. Wild-caught specimens, in particular, can be pretty spunky. Regardless of the reasons for this behavior, there are things you can do to correct it over time. Patience and persistence are the keys to success. Over the years, I have


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received quite a few emails from keepers of "aggressive" ball pythons. Here is some of the advice I have given them. Reader Question: "My roommate and I just got a baby ball python and she likes to bite and lunge, a lot. We’ve been thinking that it’s just her getting used to the new surroundings or that she just wanted to be fed. We fed her and that went well, but she still snaps at us. Usually it only happens when one of us attempts to touch her or pick her up." My Response: Do you have a good snake hook? If not, you might want to invest in one. Most of these kinds of bites happen when the keeper is picking the snake up with a hand. You can usually avoid this by using a hook to lift the snake, and then getting a hand under it when it's up off the ground. This is especially easy with ball pythons, because they are so stout and easy to lift. Keep in mind when I say "hook," I'm not referring to anything sharp. I'm talking about a rod with a curve at the end of it. Here’s how to use the hook properly:

1. Open the cage. 2. Gently slide the hook under the snake at the mid-body point. 3. Lift the snake up, and then (while keeping it over the cage for safety)

position it so the head is pointing away from you. 4. Slide a hand under the mid-body area, where the hook is. 5. Support the snake with one hand and then set the hook aside. 6. Move your other hand under the snake. 7. Keep your hands away from the head, and keep the head pointed away

from you. This technique can be very successful when done properly. I have used it to pick up some aggressive snakes over the years, and it works great. Another Reader's Question: "I have a pastel ball python, and it has bitten me once when it was younger. I know for a fact it was my fault I got bit since she is head-shy, and when I went to


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pick her up she struck at me. But now whenever I pick her up I feel very nervous. Should I pet her head to make her become less head-shy?" My Response: Petting the head of your ball python will not make it less head-shy. That's just the way these snakes are, and you can't really "train" it out of them. But with patience and persistence, you can make the snake much more docile and easy to handle. Another Reader's Question: "While attempting to feed my 48″ ball python I experienced a bite. I walked past the cage with the rat, set the rat down on the other side of the room and went to the snake cage and took off the lid and proceeded to grab the snake. I may have been in too much of a hurry. As I was pulling it up, it turned its head and bit me on my hand, scared the @#$@ out of me!" My Response: It's possible the snake detected the scent of rodent in the air. Ball pythons are ambush predators, so they have developed some effective heat and scent-tracking abilities. If there was the slightest odor of rodent, and the ball python picked up the body heat signature of your hand (with its heat-sensing pits), then you probably got a feeding bite. Snake keepers often refer to this as an SFE, or a stupid feeding error. No offense intended -- that's just what it's called. I myself have made one SFE in 20+ years of snake keeping. Usually, one is all it takes to change your behavior. :-)

It's Quick Tip Time: You've probably noticed a pattern in my responses to these people. The first thing I tell them is to purchase (or make) a snake hook. This is the best thing you can do if you have an overly "enthusiastic" ball python. You can find some high-quality handling tools at Tongs.com, and you can see a picture of my snake hooks on page 96 of this book.


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Frequency of Handling How often should I handle my ball python? Is too much handling a bad thing? These are common questions among first-time snake keepers, so let's answer them thoroughly before closing out this chapter. Here's a general rule of thumb. Once a week is a good frequency for snake handling. Handling your ball python more than once a week is too much, in my opinion. A snake that is handled too often can become stressed. You cannot see stress in reptiles, but it will eventually manifest in the form of ill health, refusal to eat, and other symptoms. On the other hand, you need to handle your snake regularly enough for cage cleaning and maintenance, and also to keep the snake accustomed to handling. That's why I favor the once-a-week "rule" of handling. I have no hard scientific data to support it, but it has served me well for decades. That's all the data I need. Of course, you shouldn't hesitate to handle your snake as needed to provide the proper care, even if it violates the once-a-week "rule." Likewise, you should leave your snake alone at certain times (like after a meal), even if it means you'll go two weeks without handling the snake. Common sense always applies. For example, let's say you handle the snake on Monday to show it to a friend. On Wednesday, you find that the snake has pooped up the cage quite a bit. It's perfectly all right (and recommended) to handle the ball python as needed to spot clean or thoroughly clean the cage. When you first bring your ball python home, it's a good idea to leave it alone for at least one week, before handling it. In fact, I recommend that you leave it alone for one week, then offer it a small meal, and then wait another week before handling the snake (for a total of two weeks before handling). When you first bring the snake home, the most important thing is to give it time to adjust to its new surroundings. Transferring a snake can be stressful for the animal, especially if it has just flown on a cargo airplane to reach you! You will have plenty of time to handle the snake later on. So at first, you should be more concerned with letting it acclimate to its new surroundings, and getting it to eat one or two meals in its new habitat. Then it's okay to handle the snake as needed for maintenance and care. Let's move on and talk about some common handling mistakes made by first-time keepers…


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What Not to Do -- Snake Handling No-No's Now that we have laid down some general guidelines and techniques for handling your ball python, let's talk about some of the things you should avoid. Here is a list of snake handling no-no's: Do not handle a snake immediately after it eats, if at all possible. Allow

snakes at least 48 hours after meals before handling. Handling too soon after a meal could cause the snake to regurgitate the meal.

Do not handle a snake that is "blue" going into a shed cycle, or is in the actual

process of shedding its skin. Snakes should be left alone when shedding. Do not let your ball python dangle from your hand. They can injure

themselves (especially their spines) when hanging from their tails while twisting around. Properly support the snake from its mid-body area.

Do not allow young children to handle snakes, unless they have proper

supervision. Children often drop jumpy snakes, causing injury to the snake. Do not attempt to pick up a snake by the head, especially a ball python.

Do not pick up a snake in a way that mimics the offering of food. Do not hold

your hand in front of the snake's mouth, as if you are offering food. It may result in the snake biting your hand by mistake.

Do not handle your ball python around people who fear snakes. This is

irresponsible behavior for a snake keeper. Instead, see if you can reduce their fear one step at a time. Start by letting the person view the snake from a distance (if he or she would like to), while the snake is still inside the cage.

Do not handle a snake until you have washed your hands first. This is why I

recommended keeping a bottle of hand sanitizer by your snake cage. Washing your hands before you handle the snake will prevent you from transferring germs or bacteria to the snake. Washing your hands after you handle the snake will prevent the snake from transferring bacteria to you.

That about wraps up my tips for snake handling. So let's move on to another hot topic among ball python keepers. Let's talk about feeding your snake!


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Chapter 4 - Feeding Your Ball Python


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Feeding Your Ball Python In this chapter, you'll learn everything you need to know about feeding your ball python. What should you feed it? How often should it eat? What do you do if the snake refuses a meal? We will talk about all of these things in great detail. Feeding is a popular topic among first-time snake keepers. It's easy to understand why. In addition to being one of the keys to a healthy snake, feeding can be an interesting thing to observe as well. After all, no other creature eats its food in quite the same way as a snake. A healthy ball python kept in the proper conditions will generally accept more meals than it refuses. That's the good news. The bad news is that ball pythons have a reputation for refusing meals quite often, and some specimens will go on long fasting periods where they eat nothing at all. It's not that ball pythons don't like food. That's not the case at all. In my experience, a refusal to eat will be the result of human error -- not a lack of hunger. You see, if the conditions within their habitats are not ideal, ball pythons are more likely to refuse meals than other species of snakes. In this chapter, you'll learn how to create those ideal conditions needed for a good feeding response. And if your snake does start refusing meals, you'll learn how to troubleshoot the environment (and the snake) to get it eating again. Let's start with the basics. Let's talk about what to feed your ball python. Prey Items for Your Ball Python In the wild, ball pythons eat a variety of small mammals, such as the African soft-furred rats and shrews. In captivity, a ball python can live a long and healthy life by eating mice and rats. This is good news for snake keepers, because feeder rodents such as mice and rats are readily available. These days, you can even go online and buy frozen rodents in bulk, and have them shipped to your doorstep. All of my ball pythons have lived entirely on rats, from the day they were born. Even as newborns, ball pythons can easily consume a "pinky" of "fuzzy" rat. As the snake grows, you simply increase the size of the food you offer. Because of their muscle density, rats are higher in protein than mice. If you have a small baby snake, and you want to start it on mice, that's fine. But I recommend switching it over to rats at some point. The snake will get more calories and nutrition from a rat than from a mouse.


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By the way, pinkies and fuzzies are two of the terms used to describe feeder rodents (mice or rats). Newborn mice and rats are hairless and pink, thus they are referred to as pinkies. When they start to get fur, they are referred to as fuzzies. As they continue to grow, the rodents will be sold as "hoppers" or "adults." And even within the adult range, there are size variations. You'll see rodent breeders sell them as regular adults, medium adults, jumbo adults, etc. Which size you choose will be determined by the size of your snake. Size of Prey I have another helpful rule-of-thumb for you, this one related to prey items. You should offer your ball python rodents that are about the size of the snake at the snake's widest section, or slightly larger than that. In other words, offer prey items that are 1 to 1 ½ times the diameter of your snake's widest part. If you offer a prey item that is too large, the snake may regurgitate the meal. Regurgitation is much less common with ball pythons that it is with, say, corn snakes. But it can still happen. When it comes to eating, snakes do not have the best judgment. A snake will rarely say, "Well, that meal seems a little too big for me. So I better leave it alone." Instead, the snake's feeding response will usually take over, and it will try its best to swallow the meal whole. If it succeeds, it may do just fine with the meal. Other times, the swallowed meal will be so big that it causes the snake to regurgitate. In addition to being stressful for the snake, this is not something you want to clean up! You can avoid all of this by offering prey items (mice or rats) that are the appropriate size for your snake. You don't want them to be too small, or the snake will still be hungry after its meals. And you don't want them to be too large, or the snake may have trouble eating them. So stick to the rule-of-thumb I've given you. Offer prey items that are about the same diameter of your snake's widest section, or just slightly larger. Frequency of Feeding Feed baby snakes about once every five to seven days (once a week is fine). This is an adequate feeding schedule until the snake is a year old. Snakes grow fastest during the first year of their lives. Adult snakes can be fed less frequently, about once every ten days, or once every other week. Just be sure to increase the size of the meal to correspond with the snake's growth, as we talked about earlier. On the next page, I've provided a handy chart to help you keep track of feedings.


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Snake Feeding Chart Snake Name _______________

Date Meal Notes

Abbreviations: Use this area to list your common food-related abbreviations (SR = small rat, etc.)


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Frozen / Thawed Rodents vs. Freshly Killed Rodents If you've been researching ball python care online lately, you've probably encountered the acronyms F/T and F/K regarding rodents. These stand for frozen / thawed and freshly killed, respectively. Specifically, these terms distinguish a frozen (pre-killed) mouse or rat that has been thawed for snake feeding from one that has been killed just before feeding time. The reptile industry has certainly come a long way over the years. This is evident in the number of professional reptile breeders, the technologically advanced cages and products, and the availability of quality reptile foods. For example, type the words "frozen rodents" into a major search engine like Google or Yahoo, and you'll encounter dozens of companies who will ship frozen rodents (in bulk) direct to your doorstep. Sort of like ordering Omaha Steaks! In terms of quality and convenience, you really can't beat frozen rodent companies. You can go online, place an order in ten minutes or so, and have a six-month supply of frozen rodents shipped to your door. What could be more convenient than that? I use Rodent Pro for this purpose (www.rodentpro.com), but there are plenty of other solid companies out there as well. Frozen / thawed rodents are also safer than freshly killed rodents, because in the chance that a rodent had internal parasites at the rodent breeder's facility, you can be sure the freezing process has killed those parasites. Thus, there is no way the parasites could be passed on to your snake (this is a possibility with freshly killed rodents). And for the record, rodent companies kill the rodents before freezing them. They do not put live rodents in the freezer to die slowly. I thought it was important to clarify that matter! So my first piece of advice is to feed your ball python frozen / thawed rodents -- exclusively, if possible. They are easy to acquire, easy to store, easy to prepare, and safer than the freshly killed alternative. I even have a separate freezer in my garage for this very purpose, since I have to store enough rodents to feed seven snakes on a regular basis. I usually order a large number of rodents, knowing that it will last me for almost an entire year. As mentioned, you can find plenty of frozen rodent companies online simply by doing an Internet search. I've been using Rodent Pro for about five years now, and I don't see any reason to change course. I've done business with a half-dozen frozen rodent companies, but Rodent Pro really has it figured out -- the online ordering process, the customer service, the shipping and packaging, everything. I


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have never had a single problem with their service, so I'm happy to give them an unpaid "advertisement" in this book! There are many other frozen rodent companies, such as Mice On Ice, The Gourmet Rodent, The Mouse Factory and more. Creative names, don't you think? Check them all out, compare their prices, and find something that works for you. How to Thaw Frozen Rodents Everyone has their own opinions about the best way to thaw frozen rodents before serving them to a snake. In truth, it really doesn't matter how you thaw them, as long as the rodents are fully thawed before you serve them to the snake. You could simply leave a frozen mouse or rat sitting out on a paper towel if you want. Put it out first thing in the morning, and it should be fully thawed by mid to late afternoon. You can also soak the frozen rodent in a container of warm water for a couple of hours, if you prefer a quicker method. I have a small Rubbermaid tub reserved for this purpose. On feeding day, I'll put the necessary number of rats into the tub, fill it with hot water, and come back in an hour or two. Dinner is served! Offering Live Rodents is Dangerous for Your Snake Most ball pythons will readily accept frozen / thawed rodents as their food source. But occasionally, a snake will refuse to eat thawed rodents. In such cases, it may become necessary to offer fresh rodents to your ball python. By "fresh," I'm referring to a live rodent that is humanely killed just before being offered to the snake. Some keepers will put live rodents into the cage, but I strongly recommend avoiding this. You see, a live rodent can easily turn the tables and attack a snake. It happens all the time, unfortunately. This is especially true for rats, which are much stronger than mice. If the ball python does not strike and constrict the rat immediately after it's introduced to the cage, the rat could bite the snake. I have seen some disturbing pictures of half-eaten ball pythons (literally). The worst thing you can do is leave a live rat, or even a mouse, in your ball python's cage without keeping a close watch. You might not like what you find when you come back. About once or twice a month, I'll receive an email from a ball python keeper who offered live rodents and ended up with an injured snake. In order to drive this


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point home, I'd like to share a couple of those emails with you now (along with my responses). Reader Question #1: "I need help with my six year old ball python. About five months ago I had given her a rat. The rat was aggressive and bit her nose and side. I took the rat out and let her calm down for a week. Thus her nose and side now have a scar. Ever since that moment no matter what I give her (rat, mice, gerbil, live or dead) she will not eat anything. I just want to make sure when she hits nine months that she is still healthy." My Response: I'm sorry to hear about the biting incident. Unfortunately, this is all too common in the snake-keeping world. This is why I tell people to feed freshly killed rats (or frozen / thawed) instead of live rats. The live ones are notorious for injuring snakes in captivity. I would start by getting the ball python checked out by a vet, if you haven't done so already. This is an important first step. Rodent bites can be pretty nasty, and they often lead to infections. It's possible that your snake has an infection from the injury it sustained. Almost all rat bites result in infection, and when left untreated this can spell certain death for the snake involved. So, if you haven't done so already, take the animal to a vet. This should be the first step in all cases of rat bites, gerbil bites, etc. You must rule out the very real possibility of infection before you can focus on feeding techniques. A sick snake will not eat, no matter what feeding techniques you try. In the meantime, make sure your ball python has proper temperatures, with a warm area that reaches the mid to upper 90s (Fahrenheit). If you insist on feeding live rats to your ball python, or any type of snake for that matter, you need to keep a close watch. I recommend pre-killing the rat before putting it into the ball python's cage, but I realize there are many people who won't heed this advice. So if you offer live rodents to your snake, keep a close watch. Rats in particular can be very aggressive, and they can "sneak" a nasty bite in before you even realize what's happening. So avoid this whenever possible. Another Reader's Question:


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"My daughter has a ball python and is away at college. I have been feeding him small rats on a two week basis with no problems. Today, I gave him a medium rat that he had trouble subduing. It took three or four tries and I think he wounded it because there is blood everywhere. I don't think the snake is hurt although there is a small superficial scratch on his back. I am concerned that he will get injured the next time. I realize the enclosure may be too crowded for a clean attack. He has never taken frozen mice although I tried for a while. He is otherwise very robust." My Response: The easiest solution is to offer dead rodents instead of live ones. I never offer live rats, and I only recommend it as a last resort for reluctant eaters. Having a live rat and a ball python in the same cage can go one of two ways. Flip a coin. Sometimes the snake will easily kill the rat, without sustaining any injuries in the process. Other times, the rat will injure or kill the ball python. It's really just a matter of time before this kind of thing happens. If the snake has a scratch or bite-wound from the rat, you should take it to a vet for a round of antibiotics. Rat bites are particularly nasty, and they lead to infections in almost all cases. In extreme cases, the bites themselves can kill the snake. You can see why I don't recommend this as a feeding strategy. There are two ways a ball python can die from this type of encounter -- the primary trauma of the bite, and the secondary infection that results from the bite. So why chance it? Like I said, I get a couple of emails like this every month. That goes to show you how common it is. And those are just the keepers who contact me. I would venture a guess that for every email I receive, there are dozens of cases I don't know about. I am not sharing these emails just to disturb you. Okay, maybe I am … but for a very good reason. I want you to realize the dangers of offering live prey. Offering frozen / thawed rodents is the best option. If the ball python refuses to eat thawed and warmed prey, you might have to try a freshly killed rodent at some point. But it's far better to kill the rodent and offer it to the snake, as opposed to putting the live rodent into the cage. If you have to offer live rodents as an absolute last resort for a stubborn eater, then you need to keep a close watch. But it's still best to avoid this method altogether. Have I made my point on this subject? Good. Let's move on and talk about feeding techniques.


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Feeding Techniques Explained So now we have talked about what to feed your ball python, and how often you should feed it. But what about the technique? How does the actual feeding process work? That depends on the feeding method you prefer, because there are several ways to go about it. Here are the three most common methods for feeding a ball python -- or any pet snake, for that matter.

1. Simply drop the food into the snake's cage. 2. Use a pair of tongs to offer the food. 3. Put the ball python into a separate container for feeding purposes.

So let's take a closer look at these three options. Option 1 – Drop the Food Into the Cage This is the easiest way to feed a ball python, and it will suffice for most snakes. I use this option for two of the four ball pythons that I keep. The process here is simple. You take the frozen / thawed (or freshly killed) rodent, place it inside the cage where the snake can easily find it, close the cage and go away. I told you it was simple. But remember, you should never leave a live rodent in the cage. I am talking about dead prey here -- either freshly killed, or frozen / thawed. I recommend placing the mouse or rat on a plate of some kind, as this will help you keep the cage clean. I have a few Tupperware lids reserved for this purpose. Whatever you use as a food holder, make sure that becomes its permanent role. Avoid moving items back and forth between snake room and kitchen. Don't be worried if your snake doesn't eat right away. Just leave the snake alone, and it will find the food eventually. If the snake is in shed, it probably won't eat. This is normal, and that's why it makes sense to check on the snake before thawing out a rodent. Option 2 – The Separate Container Technique Some snake keepers will move their snakes to a separate container or "feeding tub" at feeding time. The logic is that this prevents the snake from getting a feeding response every time its cage is opened.


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Thus, when you simply want to remove a water bowl or pull the snake out for a cage cleaning, the snake won't think that it's feeding time. It will only associate the separate feeding tub with food time. Rubbermaid tubs are commonly used for this purpose. I can see the line of reasoning behind this. But to me, it's more hassle than it's worth. I've always fed my snakes in their regular cages, and I've never had problems with an exuberant snake striking at me or thinking my hand was food. Granted, there is an initial period upon opening the cage door when the snake doesn't know whether its food time or handling time. So you have to use caution during this time (see handling tips in Chapter 3). But once you get a hand or hook on the snake, it will know that it's handling time -- and not feeding time. So while I personally don't use this feeding method, I want you to know it's an option, and it might be a good one for you. Option 3 – Offering Food With Tongs In the wild, ball pythons capture their prey by striking the animal, holding it with their rearward pointing teeth, and then throwing coils around it for constriction. You can duplicate this natural behavior in captivity by offering thawed rodents with a pair of metal tongs. This technique can also be used for snakes that ignore rodents when you simply drop them into the cage. I use this technique with the other two of my four ball pythons. The two "easier" snakes will eat just about anything I drop into their cages. The other two snakes will ignore any rodents that aren't moving, so I use tongs to make the dead rodents "run" around the cage. Works every time! The reptile supply websites I listed in Chapter 2 will sell tongs made for this purpose. Feeding tongs are usually metal or aluminum, and they come in a variety of lengths. Basically, they look and function like a giant pair of tweezers. A pair of 12- or 15-inch tongs will work well with ball pythons. The goal here is to make the dead mouse or rat appear alive, thus enticing the snake to strike the rodent. It can be fun to watch, and it encourages the snake's natural behavior. We will revisit this topic when we talk about ball pythons that refuse to eat. Sometimes a change in the feeding method is all that's needed to coax a reluctant eater. To offer food with tongs, simply grip the thawed rodent from the scruff of the neck just behind the head. Then use the tongs to hold the rodent inside the cage


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near the snake's head, and wiggle it a bit to give it some "life." When the snake strikes, let go with the tongs and the snake will do the rest. Be sure you don't jerk the rodent away when the snake strikes. If the snake does not strike when you wiggle the rodent in front of its head, you might try "running" the rodent around the cage -- back and forth in front of the snake. I have to do this with one of my ball pythons. I use the tongs to make the rat scamper back and forth in long passes. Then I watch the snake's reaction. He will move closer and closer to where the rat is passing by, and then he will strike out and ambush it. Every snake is different, so you'll have to experiment like this. When Ball Python Refuse to Eat "Help! My ball python won’t eat anything I offer it. What should I do?" This is one of the most common emails I get from worried snake keepers. I think there are two reasons for this. The first reason is that ball pythons, when compared to other pet snakes like corns and kings, are a bit more finicky when it comes to eating. The second reason I get this question a lot is because there's a lot of misinformation out there on the subject of ball pythons. For example, one snake keeper will have a bad experience with a ball python that won't eat (possibly because the snake wasn't kept under the right conditions), and then he will make some general statement like: "Ball pythons are hard to care for because they don't eat in captivity." These kinds of general assumptions have a way of spreading like wildfire across the Internet. In truth, this is usually nothing to worry about. When kept under the right conditions, a healthy ball python that occasionally refuses a meal will eventually eat a subsequent meal at a later date. Notice the two key parts of that last statement. You must have a healthy snake to begin with, and you must keep it under the proper conditions. When you have these two things going for you, the snake will eat eventually. You might have to go through some trial and error first (which we will talk about later), but a healthy snake will eventually eat for you. There are many things you can do to increase the feeding response of your ball python, and that's what we will talk about in this section of the book.


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Are Ball Pythons Hard to Feed? Here's my view on the subject of ball python feeding response. I've been keeping snakes for over 20 years. I currently have four ball pythons, plus a variety of other snakes. And I will say that the ball pythons can be a bit more finicky than my other snakes. Ball pythons are also more inclined to fast (stop eating) through parts of the year, while my other snakes will feed year-round. But while occasional meal refusal can be frustrating, a healthy ball python kept in the proper environment will eventually eat when it's ready. Here's something else I've observed over the years. When it comes to their feeding responses, ball pythons are like snowflakes -- no two are exactly alike. I keep all four of mine under the exact same conditions. They live in the same types of caging with the same temperatures, and they are on the same meal schedule. But despite their identical environments, they all have different "food personalities."

One of my ball pythons will eat anything I put in front of her. I can thaw out a frozen rat and drop it into her cage at sunset, and the rat will be gone in the morning. If only they were all like this.

One of the other females wants nothing to do with frozen / thawed rats. So I have to get fresh ones from a local pet store.

One of my male ball pythons will eat frozen / thawed rodents, as long as I hold them with tongs and make them "run" them around the cage. He likes to chase his food.

Like I said, they all have their individual feeding personalities, and your snake will too. Eventually, you will figure out how your ball python likes to eat. You might have one of the "easy" ones, or you might have to experiment with different feeding techniques. But you'll figure it out eventually. And once you do, stick with what works! Now before we get to the actual feeding tips for ball pythons, I want to share a story you might find interesting. When I first got my ball pythons, I had one that refused a lot of meals. It wasn't my technique. It wasn't the environment. It was just that snake! She would fast for a period of time, eat a meal or two, and then fast again. It really frustrated me. So I did the only thing I could do -- and it's the same thing you must do if you have a finicky ball python. I made sure the environmental conditions were ideal. I made sure the snake was otherwise healthy.


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And I kept offering meals on a regular basis. (This was in the middle of summer, mind you, so the ball python should not have been fasting.) Four years later, the "problem" feeder is the thick and healthy ball python you see in the picture below. Her name is Gretchen, and she eats about 90% of the meals I offer these days. Like I said -- they eventually come around, as long as their basic needs are met. You just have to be patient and persistent.

Of course, you have to provide the right conditions for these snakes, and this is where many keepers wander astray. Ball pythons like warmth and dark. They like to hide during the day and come out at night for food. If you have a healthy specimen, and you can duplicate these ideal conditions, your ball python will eat on a fairly regular basis. But what about those times when the snake simply won't eat, no matter what you do. Well, for these scenarios, I've created a helpful tool for you. Let's call it a troubleshooting matrix for ball pythons that won't eat. I've put this checklist on the next page, so you can print it out by itself. Note: Before going through these steps, consider the fact that ball pythons will sometimes fast through the winter. Not all of them do this, but some do. Something to keep in mind!


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Troubleshooting Guide for Ball Pythons That Don't Eat

Step What to Do

1 Offer a frozen / thawed rat of appropriate size. Offer the meal after sunset, when the snake is more inclined to eat (ball pythons are nocturnal). If it does not eat, proceed to the next step.

2 Double-check the snake’s environment to make sure everything is ideal. Start with the temperatures. Give your ball python a warm / basking area of around 92 degrees (Fahrenheit), with the rest of the cage about 78 - 80 degrees.

3 Leave the snake alone for a week, and then offer another frozen / thawed rodent. Try using feeding tongs to wiggle the rodent in front of the ball python. Make sure the food item is warm (these snakes have heat-sensing pits along their jaw).

4 If the ball python still won’t eat, double-check its environment. Does it have a place to hide within the cage? This is important. Check those temps again. Make sure the snake is not in shed, as they will generally refuse food at such times.

5 Wait a week and offer another meal, but this time offer a freshly killed rodent (as opposed to frozen / thawed). Try using the tongs. Few ball pythons can resist a fresh and warm rodent that shows signs of "life." If the snake won’t eat the rodent, leave it in the cage overnight and then check in the morning. You may find it gone!

6 If, after all of this, your ball python still won’t eat, you may want to scent the mouse or rat with gerbil litter (from a cage that contains live gerbils). Your local pet store is bound to have gerbils. Ask them for some of the used / soiled gerbil litter, and explain why you need it. Ball pythons love gerbils, but you don’t want to get them "hooked" on gerbils. So try scenting a thawed or fresh rat with gerbil litter.

7 Do you own a small scale with which you can weigh your ball python? If not, it’s a wise purchase to make. These snakes can fast for a long time with no harm at all, but the main concern is that they’re not losing too much weight. I had a ball python fast for three months one time, but her weight hardly changed at all, so I wasn’t too worried. I just kept trying, and she eventually came around.

8 Just to rule out the possibility of any health problems, you may want to make a visit to your local vet. Try to find one who has experience working with snakes.

9 Ball pythons will often fast during the winter, even when kept in heated cages. So if your snake still won’t eat after the steps above, just be patient but persistent. Continue to offer a meal about every two weeks. Try offering smaller rodents.

10 If your snake is still refusing meals, you might want to offer a freshly killed gerbil. In my experience, ball pythons love gerbils. They are more closely related to the types of rodents ball pythons eat in the wild.


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Additional Tips for Reluctant Eaters The checklist on the previous page should correct most of the cases where a ball python won't eat. It's also important to give your snake a few days between feeding attempts. Offering food on a daily basis may stress the snake and make matters worse. For example, if you try to work through the entire checklist over a couple of days, you'll just end up stressing the snake. Offer a meal. If the snake refuses it, leave it alone for a few days. Then move on to the next item on the checklist. I've said it before, but I'll say it again. Providing a proper environment for your ball python is mission critical. Aside from illness or injury, this is the number-one reason ball pythons refuse to eat in captivity. You must start by creating an environment where your ball python feels secure. This means offering a certain level of privacy. You must also keep a close eye on your temperatures, to make sure the cage is not too hot or too cold. Here's a story you may find interesting: I once moved a ball python from its drawer-style cage to a glass terrarium. The snake refused every meal while it was in the glass cage. It probably felt too exposed in that kind of transparent environment, even with the presence of hides. The drawer-style cage, on the other hand, was solid on all sides but the front. After a couple of months, I moved the snake back into the darker cage, and he resumed his normal eating habits. Apparently, he did not like being a "display animal." Consider this if you're using a glass terrarium, and you have a reluctant eater. Force Feeding I don't recommend force-feeding a ball python, except in extreme situations and only with the help of a reptile vet. Unless they are ill, most stubborn snakes will resume eating eventually, provided they are kept in the proper conditions. Your job is to provide those conditions, to keep notes on feeding attempts and snake behavior, and to contact a qualified vet after you've tried the steps outlined earlier. Excessive Handling The best thing you can do with a new snake is to leave it alone. Make sure it has the proper environment, and then keep your hands off -- at least until it has eaten a couple of times. Handling a ball python too often (like daily) is good way to stress it out. This could result in the snake refusing meals. So if you have a ball python that won't eat, cut back on the handling and use the checklist I've given you.


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Additional Reading on the Subject I've given you a lot of good advice on ball pythons that won't eat. The tips recommended previously have worked for me, time and time again. But you can never have too much information on the subject of ball python care. So I've searched the Internet and made a list of articles that discuss ball python feeding:

http://www.kingsnake.com/ballpythonguide/

http://www.newenglandreptile.com/CareBall.html http://www.reptilechannel.com/snakes/snake-care/feeding-ball-pythons.aspx

http://www.anapsid.org/ballfeed.html http://www.ballpython.com/index.php?page=bpbasics

http://www.constrictors.com/Information/BallPythonsCare.html

Do Ball Pythons Need Supplements? Reptile supply companies sell a variety of supplements for captive snakes -- vitamin powders, calcium powders, water conditioners, etc. I have never used any of these products, and every snake I've owned has lived a long and healthy life. Does that mean these supplements don't provide some kind of health benefit to snakes? No. It simply means that, in my experience, captive snakes can do fine without them. There is also a lack of scientific evidence supporting the claims made by the makers of these products. Let's consider each of these products:

Calcium supplements – Snakes in the wild get all the calcium they need from their prey (specifically, from the teeth and bones of their prey). Why would this be any different in a captive environment? A regular diet of rodents will provide all of the calcium your snake needs.

Other vitamin powders – See comments above for calcium supplements.

The same applies here. Snakes derive the vitamins necessary for survival from the prey they eat. Wild ball pythons do not get supplements.

Water conditioners – Snakes in the wild get their water from ponds,

streams, dew-damp grass, etc. Snakes in captivity get the added benefit of having purified drinking water available at all times. So instead of using some kind of "water conditioner," just clean the water bowl regularly.

This concludes the feeding chapter. Let's move on to talk about cage maintenance.


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Chapter 5 - Snake Maintenance 101


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Maintaining Your Snake's Health and Habitat So far in this book, you've learned quite a bit about ball python care. You've learned how to select a healthy specimen, how to prepare the proper environment, how to handle the snake, and how to feed it. That's all there is to it, right? Not quite. We have a few more things to discuss. Basically, you've learned how to get started as a successful snake keeper. Now we need to talk about continuing your success by providing the proper care over time. We need to talk about "Snake Maintenance 101." Six Things to Monitor Regularly There are six components of snake maintenance that you need to monitor on a regular basis. Here they are, in no particular order:

1. Temperatures

2. Cleanliness

3. Water

4. Security

5. Feeding

6. Health

1. Cage temperatures – Check the temperature in your ball python's cage on a regular basis, at least once per week. Check the temps more often when you first set up the enclosure, during seasonal changes, and other times when the room temperatures and outside temperatures might fluctuate. Refer to Chapter 2 for more about cage temperatures. 2. Cleanliness – Check the cage twice a week to see if any spot cleaning is needed (removing shed skin and feces, cleaning the water bowl, etc.). Do a complete cage cleaning at least once a month. More cleaning tips to follow! 3. Water – Check water bowls daily. You should thoroughly clean the water bowl at least once a week, but you should check it daily. Once in a while, your ball python may defecate in or around its water bowl. You should take care of this


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immediately upon discovery. (You can prevent this by keeping the bowl in the center of the cage, as snakes typically poop near the edge of the cage.) 4. Cage Security – Check cages often to make sure doors are secured, latches and knobs are fastened, etc. Refer back to Chapter 2 for more on cage security. 5. Feeding – Keep notes on all feedings. You don't necessarily have to observe the feedings, and it might be best to give your snake its privacy at first. But you should definitely keep track of meals eaten, size of meals, any meals that are refused, etc. 6. General Health – Get in the habit of looking at your ball python once a day. Over time, this will make you familiar with the snake's normal behavior and appearance, so you can spot anything out of the ordinary. We will talk more about health issues later in this chapter. So there you have them, the six things you need to keep track of through observation and note-taking. Cage temperatures, cleanliness, water status, security, feeding and general health. Let's move on to something you'll be spending a lot of time on. Let's talk about every snake keeper's favorite topic … cage cleaning! Cleaning Your Snake's Cage At a minimum, you should do a thorough cage cleaning once a month. This is when you relocate the snake, clean all cage components, replace the substrate, etc. In between these full cleanings, you should also spot clean as needed. This includes cleaning water bowls at least weekly, removing feces as soon as you notice it, removing shed skin, etc. When it's time for a complete cage cleaning, follow these simple steps.

1. Gather your cleaning materials -- paper towels, spray disinfectant, water bottle / sprayer, trash bag, etc.

2. Relocate the snake to a temporary "holding cell." A medium-sized

Rubbermaid or Sterilite box with a lockable lid and air holes will work perfectly.

3. Remove all cage furniture items (bowls, hides, climbs, etc.) and place them

in the bathroom tub or utility sink in the garage.


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4. Unplug all electrical devices on the cage, such as heating and lighting.

5. Remove the old substrate from the cage. This will be easy if it's newspaper.

If it's aspen shavings, Carefresh bedding or something similar, you may have to dump the cage or use a shop vac to suck everything up.

6. Clean the empty cage thoroughly. Start with a spray bottle with water and

some paper towels, just to get all the dust, feces and other visible matter. Then go over it a couple of times with an antibacterial disinfectant product. I use a product called Quat Plus, which comes in a spray bottle. I order it from BigAppleHerp.com.

7. Avoid spraying cold water on hot glass (such as the glass bottom of a

terrarium that has had a heat pad warming it). This can lead to a cracked glass. Let the glass cool a bit before cleaning it.

8. Leave the cage wide open so it can air out and finish drying completely,

while you tackle the cage furniture items. 9. You can clean cage items with plain old antibacterial soap (like Dial liquid

soap) and hot water. If any items are exceptionally filthy, you may want to soak them overnight in a diluted bleach solution, about 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. If you clean the cage and furniture on a regular basis, bleach will rarely be necessary. I hardly ever use it.

10. Pay particular attention to the water bowl. Give it a good "finger scrub"

using antibacterial soap and hot water. Repeat this at least twice, and then give it a long hot rinse with the hottest water possible.

11. Avoid scrubbing plastic bowls with fingernails or scouring pads. This will

leave shallow scratches and abrasions in the plastic, which makes the bowl harder to clean in the future. Bacteria are more likely to form in scratched or pitted surfaces, because these areas are hard to clean. So use the smooth part of your finger to rub the bowl clean, or soak it overnight if necessary.

12. Add some new substrate, replace the cage items, fill up the bowl with fresh

water, put the snake back in, and you're done. 13. When the cage is clean and the occupant is back inside, plug in the

electrical devices again. And check to make sure the cage is secure.


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Cage Cleaning Tips Here's a helpful series of cage-cleaning tips, from someone who has cleaned a lot of snake cages over the years! "Shop towels" (blue, thick paper towels) are excellent for snake maintenance

and cage cleaning. You can buy them in single rolls and six-packs at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

Always keep extra cleaning supplies on hand for when they run out. This

includes extra substrate material, extra cleaning spray, extra paper towels, etc. Keep a pump dispenser of hand sanitizer in your snake room, or on top of your

snake's cage. Use it before you handle the snake (for the snake's health); after you handle the snake (for your health); and frequently while cleaning the cage.

Remember, the simpler the setup, the easier it is to clean. A more naturalistic

cage will take longer to clean. Find a balance of simplicity and visual appeal that works for you.

Terrariums and plastic cages that have crevices around the edges can be a real

pain to clean. So if possible, try to get a cage that has rounded corners inside that are easier to spray and wipe. This is why I use Vision cages.

When water evaporates completely from a water bowl, it will leave mineral

deposits that are hard to clean. If you clean and refill water bowls before the water completely evaporates, you won't have to deal with this problem.

Cleaning the cage is also a good opportunity to feed the snake. After you

finish cleaning and are ready to put the snake back into the cage, have a thawed rodent inside the cage waiting for the snake. Two tasks at once!

Don't think of cage cleaning as a chore, but as an obligation to your reptilian

friend. Listen to your favorite music to make the task more enjoyable. On the next page, I've provided a general maintenance checklist to help you keep track of cage cleanings and other actions.


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Snake Maintenance Tracker (Use to record cage cleaning and other maintenance tacks)

Snake Name _______________

Date Action Notes


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Example of Snake Maintenance Equipment Pictured below are a variety of tools used for snake maintenance, cage cleaning, etc. You may not need all of these items for your snake, but I wanted you to at least have a visual of some of the things we talked about in this book.

Pictured above are the following items: Carefresh pet bedding (a type of substrate material) A digital scale for weighing snakes A moisture retreat made from a Rubbermaid box w/ damp paper towels A pair of 15-inch feeding tongs Two types of heating bulbs, incandescent and infrared A temperature gun (the small black device) Spray bottle with water Quat Plus disinfectant spray Two snake hooks in different sizes A hood (far right) to be used with the heating bulbs


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Health Problems in Ball Pythons Let me begin this final section of the book with a brief disclaimer. It is not my goal (or even my ability) to give you the skills and knowledge of a reptile veterinarian. But I do want you to understand some of the common ailments that can affect ball pythons, so you'll know what to look out for and when to make a trip to the vet's office. When I refer to "common ailments" in ball pythons, I don't mean that ball pythons commonly get ill. On the contrary, if you choose a healthy specimen and provide the proper care, there's a very good chance your snake will never have any illness of any kind. "Common ailments" simply means that, out of all the possible ailments a ball python could have, these are some of the most common. With that clarification out of the way, here are some ailments that may affect ball pythons in captivity. Stress

Dehydration

Shed retention

External parasites

Internal parasites

Blisters and skin disease

Respiratory ailments

Problem #1 - Stress Stress can occur in reptiles for a number of reasons. In snakes, the most common causes of stress come from (A) feeling threatened, (B) having no place to hide, (C) being handled improperly or too often, and (D) living in substandard conditions. Fortunately, most of these factors can be greatly reduced (if not eliminated entirely) simply by providing the proper care for your ball python, which is what this book is about. Now you can better understand why I've written this book and spent so much time on the details. Proper snake care is the best line of defense against illnesses that affect snakes, including stress-related problems. You can't see stress in snakes the way you can see other types of snake ailments, such as external parasites or a retained shed. But stress can "build up" in snakes to


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produce other symptoms like the refusal to eat, weight loss, lethargy, and, in extreme cases, even death. So it is the snake keeper's duty to understand what causes stress in snakes and find ways to reduce it. Follow the advice I've provided in this book, and you can prevent your ball python from becoming over-stressed to begin with. Create a proper environment for your snake (Chapter 2), paying close attention to such things as temperature, hides, fresh water, etc. And don't handle your snake too frequently (Chapter 3). Over-handling and improper environment are the two most common causes of stress in captive snakes. Problem #2 - Dehydration Dehydration can affect your ball python in a variety of ways, some of them severe. But here's the good news. It's also easy to prevent. If your snake has trouble shedding its skin (next topic), it could be a sign of dehydration. To help prevent this, make sure your ball python has clean drinking water available at all times. This is the first and best line of defense against dehydration and the problems associated with it -- just like it is with humans. You should also keep track of the humidity level in the room where your snake is located. Ball pythons need a certain level of humidity to stay hydrated, and to shed properly. So if you live in a dry, low-humidity area such as Arizona, you may have to provide some artificial humidity for your snake, especially when it is going into a shed cycle. You can do this by placing an ordinary household humidifier in your snake room, or by creating a "moisture retreat" for the snake. Refer back to Chapter 2 for more advice on this subject. Problem #3 - Shed Retention The fact that snakes can shed their skin has always fascinated those with a curious mind, especially children. There is just something about an animal that can slide out of its skin once or twice a month that fires the imagination. But while snake shedding is the common phrase used to describe this process, it's not entirely accurate. In truth, snakes do not shed their skin. They shed a layer of ... well, shed. They retain their skin after shedding (obviously), and their skin is usually much more vibrant immediately after the shed.


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When a snake sheds, it only loses the outermost layer of its skin, keeping the "skin proper" very much intact. Despite this technicality, and for the sake of simplicity, I will refer to the process by its common terminology -- shedding skin. Ecdysis is the scientific term for shedding of the skin. In addition to snakes, other animals shed their skin. These include a variety of insects, arthropods and lizards. This process is also commonly referred to sloughing or molting the skin. With snakes, however, the word "shedding" is used most often. Snakes shed their skin to allow for continued growth. The skin of a snake is different from the skin of a mammal (including us) in that it does not grow as the animal grows. When we get bigger with age, our skin grows right along with us. But snake skin has a limited capacity for growth and enlargement. Thus, when a snake outgrows the skin it's in, it simply sheds the outer layer and starts fresh. A snake will shed its skin as long as it's growing, and snakes grow all through their lives. Thus, a snake will never stop shedding until death. With that being said, the frequency of snake shedding will certainly change during the snake's life. Younger snakes grow at a faster rate than mature snakes (as is the case with most other species). So a young, fast-growing snake will shed more frequently than an adult snake of the same species. Snakes sometimes have trouble shedding their skins, both in the wild and in captivity. In captivity, it's usually not a big deal when a snake has trouble shedding, because the owner can use several techniques to help the pet snake complete the shed. These techniques include soaking the snake, misting the snake, increasing the room's humidity, providing a moisture box, etc. In the wild, however, the problem of an incomplete shed can more severe because there are no humans / owners to help out. When a wild snake has trouble completing its shed, the sheds can accumulate. This can lead to many problems, especially around the eyes. If a snake retains multiple "eye caps" from previous sheds, it can lead to blindness. And in nature, a blind snake is usually a dead snake. Ball pythons normally shed in one piece, or mostly one piece. In fact, if you observe the process sometime, you'll notice is resembles a sock being turned inside out and pulled off the foot. However, when a ball python cannot shed its skin completely, it will retain pieces of the dead skin that should have come off with the rest. This could be a sign of dehydration, an environment that's too dry, or a combination of these factors.


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External parasites (covered below) can also lead to a snake having problems shedding. This is another problem that's normally easy to fix. As usual, start with the source of the problem. Does the snake have fresh drinking water at all times? Is the snake's environment too dry (low humidity)? Have you tried using a humidifier in the room a little bit each day? Have you introduced a humidity box into the snake's cage? Retained skin from a shed can usually be removed quite easily. Start by soaking the snake in some way. You can do this by putting the snake into a damp pillow case or a moisture box. Just make sure the pillow case is tied off, so the snake does not escape. Yes, it can breathe in there. After the snake has soaked for an hour or so, try to gently pull off as much of the retained shed as possible. Just grab a loose edge of the shed skin, wherever it's sticking out and can be easily gripped. Then slowly pull away from the snake and toward the tail of the snake. If you watch your snake shed at least once, you'll have a good idea how it's supposed to come off. This will help you duplicate the motion for a snake with shedding problems. You'll be surprised how easily it comes off in your fingertips. Next, use a warm, damp washcloth to rub the snake's body from neck to tail, wherever there's any retained shed. Repeat this two or three times. This will soften the shed skin even more, allowing the snake to get the rest of it off by itself. And don't be surprised if some of the stubborn shed comes right off in your hand, after being moistened in this way. The key here is to remove as much of the old skin as possible, and (most importantly) to correct the environmental conditions that led to the problematic shed in the first place. This way, the snake will have a clean shed next time. Special Focus - Retained Eye Caps Retained eye caps are a related topic that deserves special focus here. When your snake sheds its skin, it will also shed a layer of skin over its eyes. Snake keepers refer to these as "eye caps," and they look very similar to contact lenses. When your snake sheds its skin, remove the shed from the cage and examine the head area of the old skin. If the shed came off easily without a lot of breakage, you should see two eye caps -- like little contact lenses -- within the head portion of the shed skin.


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If you don't see the eye caps, there are two possibilities. It's possible that the eye caps came off, but they detached from the main shed piece and are still in the cage somewhere. It's also possible that your snake could not get the caps off and has retained them over its eyes. A quick visual inspection will reveal the answer. Eye caps are usually easy to see when retained in place over a snake's eyes. They will be most visible around the edge of the eye, because they tend to be yellowish or even light brown in color. Sometimes an edge will be loose and sticking out, making the eye caps even more visible to you (and easier to remove). If the snake's eyes are clear and you don't see anything around the edge of the eye, then the caps might have come off inside the cage somewhere (separate from the rest of the shed skin and thus harder to find). If the snake has finished shedding, but the eye caps are clearly still present over the snake's eyes, you will need to intervene to help the snake remove them. You may even need to manually remove them, by hand.

Note: Removing eye caps is a fairly simple procedure, but it does require a steady hand and some degree of caution. Not to mention the fact you'll need to restrain the snake's head to perform this procedure. If you ever have to do this, get help the first time from someone with experience in this area -- a reptile vet or a friend who has removed eye caps before.

Often, retained eye caps can be removed with the same washcloth technique described earlier. This is by far the easiest approach, so you should start here. Take a smooth, non-abrasive towel or rag and wet it with lukewarm water. Next, gently wipe a folded portion of the rag across the snake's eye area, on both sides one at a time. Apply only light pressure when doing this. If the eye cap has a loose edge, this process may remove it entirely. If the caps do not come off, the warm water will soften up the edges enough that the snake can remove them on its own. If this fails, you'll have to move on to the next technique, which is using tweezers. For this reason, you may want to add a drop or two of mineral to the snake's eye caps as well. This will help soften the edges even more. Just use an eyedropper to place a drop of mineral oil onto the eye cap, and then give it a soft wipe with the damp rag. Any first-time keeper can use the damp washcloth method described above. It is reasonably effective for removing eye caps, and there's very little risk of injuring


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the snake. But I strongly recommend you get help with the tweezers method, at least the first time. Contact a local reptile vet, breeder, or a friend who has performed this technique before. If you have a herpetology club or organization in your city, they can probably help you as well. In theory, this technique is simple. You restrain the snake's head, find a loose edge of the eye cap with the tweezers, and gently pull the cap off the eye. In practice, however, this technique is a bit trickier than I've described. You must safely but firmly restrain the snake's head to avoid having it jerk away from the tweezers, or jerking into them and injuring itself. At the same time, you must use a steady hand to pull off the eye cap with the tweezers -- slowly and steadily. Thus, it really takes two people to perform this technique properly (one of whom should be experienced with the technique).

Note: If you want to learn more about retained eye caps and how to treat them, check out my YouTube video on the subject. The video is called "Snake Shedding and Eye Caps." You can find it on my YouTube channel, which is located here: http://www.youtube.com/user/7brandontube

With matters of shedding, an ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure. If your snake has access to fresh water on a regular basis, and if you monitor humidity levels inside the snake's cage, there's a good chance you'll never have to worry about retained eye caps or sheds. For most keepers, that's all the motivation they need to provide the proper care for their snakes. Problem #4 - External Parasites I will only briefly mention this health issue because if you select a healthy, captive-bred ball python to begin with, and you keep it in the proper conditions, you won't have to worry about external parasites. Here, we are talking about ticks and mites primarily. Captive-bred snakes rarely have ticks. Wild-caught snakes frequently have ticks. One more reason to avoid keeping wild-caught snakes as pets! Treatment for ticks on snakes is similar to treating ticks on humans. You remove the tick with a pair of tweezers (making sure to remove the bloodsucker's head and mouth), treat the area with a light antiseptic cleaning, and monitor the animal for signs of infection.


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There are only two ways your snake could pick up ticks -- either (A) through the wild or (B) through direct contact with another snake that already has ticks. Thus, ticks are rarely an issue with captive-bred snakes kept in proper conditions. Mites are a little more difficult to treat. Like ticks, mites are external blood-sucking parasites, but they are smaller than ticks and usually present in greater numbers. When mites are gorged with blood, they are easier to see, as they will look like tiny balloons protruding from the snake's skin. When they are "empty" of the snake's blood, mites are only the size of a pinhead, and will appear as tiny red or black dots all over the snake's body. Treatment for mites involves treating the snake with a special powder or spray to kill the mites, and also a thorough cleaning of the cage and furniture (including a good bleach soaking).

For treating the snake, I recommend a product called "Reptile Relief" made by Natural Chemistry. You can buy it online and in some pet stores.

For cleaning the enclosure, I recommend a product called "Provent-A-

Mite" made by Pro Products. You might want to follow up the initial cage cleaning with a second round, using a bleach-and-water solution. When it comes to mites, you cannot clean the cage too much.

For obvious reasons, you need to keep the snake out of the enclosure until you have cleaned it thoroughly. So you would treat the snake with a product like Reptile Relief, and then you would put it into a clean container, such as Rubbermaid box with holes in it. Then you would tackle the cage. There's no point putting a clean snake back into a cage that has mites. The process may have to be repeated until all the mites are gone. After the initial treatment, you should keep your snake on a newspaper substrate, which makes it easier to see if the mites are still around. Left untreated, tick and mite infestations can lead to a variety of health problems in a captive snake. Thus, these issues must be resolved immediately. Problem #5 - Internal Parasites Snakes can also have parasites on the inside of their bodies, within their bloodstream and certain organs like the intestines. Internal parasites, such as nematodes, worms and flukes, pose a greater health risk to snakes than external parasites. Internal parasites are also harder to detect, since you obviously cannot see them with the naked eye.


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A fecal examination is one way to detect the presence of many types of internal parasites, which is why I recommend having a vet perform such an exam on all newly acquired snakes. This is especially important if you obtain your ball python from a questionable source. It's also a good reason to purchase the snake from a professional breeder who makes a living by providing healthy animals. If you have a healthy snake that is free from internal parasites, you can prevent them by feeding your snake frozen / thawed prey, and by never feeding it wild-caught rodents or lizards. Problem #6 - Skin Ailments When snakes are kept in poor conditions, such as dirty cages and moist substrate, they can develop skin ailments such as blisters and infections. Keep your snake in a clean, proper environment, and you'll probably never have to worry about such problems. If they do occur, schedule an appointment with your local reptile vet. Problem #7 - Respiratory Ailments Snakes can get respiratory (breathing) ailments with symptoms similar to those in humans. These symptoms may include signs of mucus around the nose or mouth, sneezing, open-mouth breathing, and possibly even a wheezing sound you can hear when holding the snake near your ear. The best defense against respiratory ailments is a clean and dry enclosure with proper temperatures, as outlined in Chapter 2 of this book. If your ball python shows signs of respiratory illness, start by ensuring it has a clean, dry cage, and also increase temperatures on the warm side / basking area to the mid 90's Fahrenheit (if they're not they're already). If symptoms persist and do not show signs of improving after a week (or if the symptoms are severe to begin with), take the snake to your reptile vet. A Word About Reptile Vets Reptile treatment is a relatively new form of veterinary medicine. While vets have been treating dogs and cats for hundreds of years, reptile treatment is a much younger practice. In fact, aside from the vets who worked for zoos, you couldn't even find a reptile vet twenty years ago. There just wasn't a large enough demand to justify the extra training and education.


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Thankfully, this is beginning to change. These days, many veterinarians specialize in reptiles to some degree. With the ever-rising number of reptile keepers, it only makes sense for vets to learn about reptile health. It's just good business. When you are looking for a veterinarian in your area, try to find one who truly specializes in reptiles. It's worth it, even if it means you have to drive farther. For example, there is a vet's office a half-mile from my neighborhood. But they are not very familiar with reptiles. So I drive 15 minutes (both ways) to a vet who specializes in reptiles. He works with the zoos and universities in the area, treating and learning about reptiles. So I am happy to take the longer drive, if necessary. Some vets are far less experienced with reptiles, but they will claim to treat reptiles simply to bring in more business. I once knew a vet whose answer to every reptile ailment was to turn the heat up inside the cage. Sorry, but that's not proper veterinary advice. Far from it! Here are some good ways to find a truly competent reptile vet in your area:

Visit some snake forums (like Kingsnake.com) to get some input.

Contact your local reptile or herpetological society / association.

Try one of the websites listed below.

http://www.arav.org http://www.herpvetconnection.com http://www.anapsid.org/vets/ http://www.repticzone.com/articles/reptileveterinarians.html

Recommended Reading If you are interested in learning more about snake ailments and how to identify them, I recommend reading a book called What's Wrong With My Snake? It was written by John Rossi, a veterinarian and reptile specialist who has treated thousands of snake ailments. Though it gets a bit clinical in some areas, it's still an excellent book for snake keepers to read. At the time I was writing this book, Rossi's book was available through all the online bookstores such as Amazon.com. You can probably still purchase it from this website as well: http://www.avsbooks.com/avs/whatsnake.asp


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Appendix - Compiled Checklists Throughout this book, I've offered several checklists to help you perform various functions related to ball python care. I've compiled them all here at the end so you can print them all at once (if you haven't printed them while reading through the book). Just print out then next 5 pages and you'll have the following checklists: Breeder Information Sheet

Pre-purchasing Checklist

Snake Feeding Chart

Checklist: When Snake Refuses to Eat

Snake Maintenance Tracker


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Snake Breeder Information Sheet (Print multiple copies and use one sheet per breeder) Breeder Name: Website Phone Number

Shows Attending:

Deposit Required: Y / N Notes:

Morphs Available:

Do They Ship Snakes? Y / N Notes on Shipping:

Other Notes:


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Checklist - Before Purchasing Your Ball Python:

Research your state's laws regarding reptiles in general and ball pythons in particular. Most states allow ball pythons to be kept as pets, but you need to check.

Create a list of eight to ten breeders who produce ball pythons.

Start researching reptile shows and make a list of those within driving distance.

Contact breeders to find out about the shows they attend, snake availability, shipping procedures, etc. Use the Breeder Information Sheet I provided earlier.

Check out all of the ball python morphs available to determine your favorite.

Start preparing your snake's habitat (cage, heating, lighting, etc.).

Obtain a food supply (frozen rodents) or a reliable food source (live rodents).

Finish this book to learn about the proper care and keeping of ball pythons!

Finish your snake's habitat, with a focus on proper temperatures and security.

Purchase your ball python, keeping in mind the evaluation tips I've provided.

Take the Snake Keeper's Pledge from earlier in this book.

Get help from experienced keepers when needed. Join some ball python forums for this purpose. For starters, check out the forums at Kingsnake.com.


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Snake Feeding Chart Snake Name _______________

Date Meal Notes

Abbreviations: Use this area to list your common food-related abbreviations (SR = small rat, etc.)


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What to Do When Your Ball Python Won't Eat

1 Offer a frozen / thawed rat of appropriate size. Offer the meal after sunset, when the snake is more inclined to eat (ball pythons are nocturnal). If it does not eat, proceed to the next step.

2 Double-check the snake’s environment to make sure everything is ideal. Start with the temperatures. Give your ball python a warm / basking area of around 92 degrees (Fahrenheit), with the rest of the cage about 78 - 80 degrees.

3 Leave the snake alone for a week, and then offer another frozen / thawed rodent. Try using feeding tongs to wiggle the rodent in front of the ball python. Make sure the food item is warm (these snakes have heat-sensing pits along their jaw).

4 If the ball python still won’t eat, double-check its environment. Does it have a place to hide within the cage? This is important. Check those temps again. Make sure the snake is not in shed, as they will generally refuse food at such times.

5 Wait a week and offer another meal, but this time offer a freshly killed rodent (as opposed to frozen / thawed). Try using the tongs. Few ball pythons can resist a fresh and warm rodent that shows signs of "life." If the snake won’t eat the rodent, leave it in the cage overnight and then check in the morning. You may find it gone!

6 If, after all of this, your ball python still won’t eat, you may want to scent the mouse or rat with gerbil litter (from a cage that contains live gerbils). Your local pet store is bound to have gerbils. Ask them for some of the used / soiled gerbil litter, and explain why you need it. Ball pythons love gerbils, but you don’t want to get them "hooked" on gerbils. So try scenting a thawed or fresh rat with gerbil litter.

7 Do you own a small scale with which you can weigh your ball python? If not, it’s a wise purchase to make. These snakes can fast for a long time with no harm at all, but the main concern is that they’re not losing too much weight. I had a ball python fast for three months one time, but her weight hardly changed at all, so I wasn’t too worried. I just kept trying, and she eventually came around.

8 Just to rule out the possibility of any health problems, you may want to make a visit to your local vet. Try to find one who has experience working with snakes.

9 Ball pythons will often fast during the winter, even when kept in heated cages. So if your snake still won’t eat after the steps above, just be patient but persistent. Continue to offer a meal about every two weeks. Try offering smaller rodents.

10 If your snake is still refusing meals, you might want to offer a freshly killed gerbil. In my experience, ball pythons love gerbils. They are more closely related to the types of rodents ball pythons eat in the wild.


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Snake Maintenance Tracker (Use to record cage cleaning and other maintenance tacks)

Snake Name _______________

Date Action Notes

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