TOP-LEVEL COLOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS COMBINING SENSORIALITY & ACTIVITY

Makeup Market

• Constantly innovating segment => offer new trends and new “looks” to women

• Global makeup market = $55 billions in 2012 / Global skincare market = $79 billions

• Growth by + 5.7% in 2012 despite the crisis /Growth of skincare market by 4.1%

Source: Euromonitor & Marketline

27%

23% 22%

14%

7% 5% 2%

Asia Pacific

Western Europe

North America

Latin America

Estearn Europe

Africa and Middle East

Australia/Oceania

Makeup - Definition

• Basically, the function of makeup is to modify and enhance the skin’s appearance by depositing pigments on its surface

• Lot of products on the market with various textures!

COMPLEXION FOUNDATION

o Emulsion o Anhydrous

formulas

POWDER o Loose Powder o Compact Powder

LIPS LIPSTICK LIP GLOSS LIP LINER LIP STAIN

EYES MASCARA EYELINER PENCIL & KHOL EYESHADOW

o Powder o Cream

Active Makeup

Dior - Moisture Release Satin Makeup

L’Oréal - Visible Lift Serum Absolute Advanced Age-Reversing Makeup

Anti-Aging Hydrating

Estee Lauder - Moisture Intense Fluid Makeup

Shiseido - Radiant Lifting Foundation

Protecting

Shiseido - UV Potective Compact Foundation

Anti-Acne

Clinique - Acne Solutions Liquid Makeup

• Today makeup products not only color and make consumers more attractive but they also offer active properties => Active Makeup

L’Oreal - Color Rich Anti-Aging Serum

Guerlain - Hydrating Bronzing Powder

Anti-Pollution

Clarins - True Radiance - Perfect Skin Foundation

Dior - Diorskin Nude Tan Healthy Glow Enhancing Powder

High compatibility

with pigments Sensoriality

Active properties

Senso-Active

Makeup Artist!

LMC ingredients in makeup

Pigments - Definition

• In cosmetic :

₋ “Skincare cosmetic” (white products)

₋ “Decorative cosmetic” (colored products) which contain pigments

o Tinted emulsion = foundations , mascaras

o Anhydrous (water-free) products = lipstick, stick foundation, powder (face, eyeshadow)…

• Pigments are colored, opaque solid powder and are insoluble in the media where they are in suspension

• Types of pigments:

₋ Organic pigments : Ca or Ba salts

₋ Inorganic pigments: iron oxide, (red, yellow, black), manganese violet, titanium oxide (white pigment)…

₋ Special pigments: perlescent agents to provide specific visual effects (luminosity/ brightness, iridescent…)

Pigments - Technical challenge examples

Constraints

• Stability (solid particules in suspension within a formula base):

₋ Compatibility of pigments with other ingredients of the formula

• Color rendering

₋ Homogeneous dispersion of pigments (in the product and during application)

• Manufacturing process

₋ Reproductibility/ adjustment of the color from batch to batch

₋ …..

Pigment

Good dispersion Bad dispersion

Sedimentation

Aggregation

Added values of our emulsifiers

• Phospholipids = Skin-identical molecules

‐ Biomimetic

‐ Bioaffinity / Biocompatible

‐ High tolerance

‐ Naturality

• Sophisticated skin feel : “Phospholipid Touch”

‐ Cool touch

‐ Slickness

• Active properties

‐ Restructuring

‐ Film-forming

=> 100% active base

• Improve penetration and bioavailability of active ingredient through skin => higher efficacy

‐ Non-tacky

‐ Soft

- Hydrating

- Soothing

Additional dispersing properties

• Phospholipids are known to:

‐ Reduce friction between the different components => Fluidity increase

‐ Prevent pure pigment aggregation => Better color rendering

‐ Allow better skin adhesion of pigments because of their compatibility with the skin's surface

Hydrophobic medium

Pigment

Phospholipids

Repulsive power

Fatty chains increasing affinity with hydrophobic medium

Hydrophobic medium

Pigment Hydrophile affinity

Phospholipids

Repulsive power

Fatty chains increasing affinity with hydrophobic medium

My Makeup Routine! Concept

• Senso-active makeup => sophisticated skin feel

• Senso-active makeup => selected active ingredients + active emulsifiers

• 7 formulas that highlight the perfect compatibility of our ingredients with pigments for stable color cosmetic products

‐ 1 Primer

‐ 2 Foundations

‐ 1 Loose Powder

‐ 1 Eyeliner/Eyeshadow

‐ 1 Cream-to-Powder Eyeshadow

‐ 1 Liquid Lipstick

• 2 looks

A sheer, natural and fresh beauty look ideal for everyday wear…

A touch of glamour and seduction lasting all night long…

&

Foundation - What is it?

• Skin-colored makeup product that is applied to the face to provide an even color to the complexion, to cover flaws and, sometimes, to change the natural skin tone

• Different textures: fluid, cream, balm, cream-to-powder, stick, solid…

• Different coverages: sheer, medium, full

• Different finishes: natural, matt, radiant, powdery, silky…

Foundation - What is it?

• 2 classes

‐ Emulsion foundation:

•Oil/Water (frequent)

•Water/Oil (rare)

•Water/Silicones (very frequent in Europe)

• Silicones/Water (frequent in US)

‐ « Hot-pour » foundation (=anhydrous products= water free)

Foundation - What is it?

• O/W emulsion foundations have not the same skin feel of W/Si or Si/W emulsions but they have other advantages:

₋ Could be less expensive

₋ Cooler

₋ Greener perception

DD Concept - What is it?

• DD Cream = Daily Defense cream

• Surfing on the hot alphabet cream trend: hybrid skin care/makeup products with multifunctional properties

• All-in-1 product which covers and conceals imperfections and protects the skin from all daily aggressions: free radicals, pollution, harmful UV…

• Natural and light coverage

My Protective DD Foundation SPF 10*

• Foundation offering a nude and even skin tone result

• « Daily Defense » action against external aggressions with:

- Superox-C™ to fight free radical-induced skin aging

- Simulskin™ to improve the barrier function of the stratum corneum

- Sun filters to fight UV

• Supple luxurious texture with a soft and comfortable skin feel thanks to Biophilic™ H

• Silicone-free formula but with a pleasant silicone-like skin feel thanks to Ecogel™ the silicone-like touch provider

* = Theoretical value

FUNCTION

Chelating agent Preservative Preservative

Gelling-emulsifying agent

Humectant

Emulsifier

Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant

Co-emulsifier Antioxidant

Emollient Emollient Butter/thickener Sunscreen Sunscreen Sunscreen

Anti-aging ingredient

Anti-aging ingredient

Fragrance

SPF 10 (theoretical)

Silicone-free! Second skin effect & protection

Ecogel™

Daily Defense action

Stabilizing agent role having synergistic effects with Biophilic™ H: - Amazing silicone-like skin feel - Higher spreadability - Pleasant slippery sensation => Easier application and more homogenous result

High protective shield thanks to: - Sun filters (SPF 10*) to prevent daily sun-induced damages - Superox-C™ to fight oxidative stress by boosting cell defenses against

free radicals => wrinkle reducing properties - Simulskin™ to improve the skin barrier function by strengthening

corneocyte cohesion => better skin protection against external components & better hydration

Biophilic™ H

- Emulsifier role - Compatibility with filters (14%) and pigments (3.8% of pure

pigments vs 7.6% of pigments dispersions) while keeping a supple & smooth texture

- Inimitable « Phospholipid Touch »: cool, slippery, non-tacky, soft - Comfortable skin feel - Active ingredient penetration booster

* = Theoretical value

Powder - What is it?

• Used alone for a radiant look or to set the foundation giving it a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes

• 2 types of powders

‐ Loose powder (main ingredients: talc, pigments)

‐ Pressed powder (same composition + oily liquid components helping cohesion)

My Beautifying Loose Powder

• Multi-active loose powder providing a natural-looking sun-kissed glow that bypasses the problematic of introducing liquid active ingredient in powder

• Skin care benefits:

- Shine control with Matipure™ Oil Free

- Natural tanning effect with Melactiva™

- Younger looking skin with Chronoline™

How to introduce active ingredients in powders?

• Active ingredients in powder form => easy introduction but limited choice of active ingredients as they are not in the most common form

• Active ingredients in liquid form => agglomeration risk with the powder

• Solution: “transform” liquid form into powder form through adsorption on microporous mineral matrix used as a carrier = Matipure™ Oil Free

• Matifying agent =>adsorption of excess sebum

« Acts as a sort of a sponge »

Introduction of active ingredients in powders

• Usually: ratio 1 g of active solution onto 1 g of Matipure™ Oil Free

• Active are gradually time released on contact with skin

• Technique adapted to any powder formulation pressed or loose (blush, eye shadow, face powder, bronzer, etc.) => makeup powders can claim active benefits!

• Adsorption is only possible on Matipure™ Oil Free version as the matrix of the standard version is already charged with the 2 treating oils

FUNCTION

Powder Powder Powder Powder

Matifying ingredient/ Delivery system Anti-aging ingredient

Tan accelerator ingredient

Pigment Pigment Pigment

Fragrance Preservative

A multi-active loose powder for an exquisite complexion !

Matipure™ Oil Free

ChroNOline™

Easy solution to introduce hydrosoluble active ingredient in anhydrous products - Adsorption of liquid hydrosoluble active ingredients onto the porous

microparticle complex of Matipure™ Oil Free - Gradually releasing of active ingredients on contact with skin

Anti-aging peptide - Key components of DEJ production booster => wrinkle eraser - Entrapped in Matipure™ Oil Free porous structure => anhydrous

product incorporation

Melactiva™ Vegetable tan accelerator - UV-induced melanin production booster => natural -looking sun-

kissed glow

Eyeliner - What is it?

• Eyeliner is used to define the eyes. It is applied around the contours of the eye to create a variety of aesthetic effects

• Different types of eyeliners

‐ Liquid eyeliner

‐ Pencil eyeliner

‐ Gel eye liner

Mixology

• Following the worldwide success of multi-action BB products, a new category is born with the mixology gathering multi-use products

Lips & Cheeks Eyeliner & Mascara Eyelid & Brow

Eyeshadow & Eyeliner

My 2-in-1 Eye Liner & Shadow

• Multi-use product (liner + shadow) answering to the mixology trend

• Light and cool gel-cream texture for a gliding and even application thanks to Ecogel™ that highlights a sublime look

• Active eyeliner with Capixyl™ for thicker and fuller eyelashes

Capixyl™ Clinical test

FUNCTION

/

Chelating agent Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant Film-former Gelling-emulsifying agent

Emollient Antioxidant

Emollient Emollient Film-former

Perlescent agent

Thicker and fuller eyelashes provider Preservative

1 product for 2 applications!

Ecogel™

Capixyl™

- Emulsifier role => gel-cream texture formulation - Compatibility with pigments (1.8% of pure pigments vs. 3.6 %

of pigments dispersions) - Good suspending power for pearlescent pigments (8%) - Higher spreadability - Silicone-like skin feel and cool effect

- Thicker and fuller eyelashes

Primer - What is it?

• Primers are born in US approximately 6 years ago

• Come from studio and backstage to prepare the skin of the models and stabilize the effects of textures & colors

• Increasing worldwide success both in selective and mass market

• Base that is applied under makeup:

- Act as filler for fine lines and pores providing a smooth complexion

- Allow makeup to adhere and last longer

• Mostly silicone-based formula

• Different kinds of products: foundation, eyeshadow, mascara & lip primers

Complexion Eyes

Lips

My Magic Active Primer

• More than a primer it acts both:

- On skin surface (silicones fill fine lines and pores)

- Inside-out (anti-aging peptide reduces wrinkles and improves sagging skin appearance from inside => Progeline™)

• Surprising texture that differs from mostly pure silicone-based classical primers:

- Low in silicone

=> Greener image

=> Original texture

- 75% water inside!

=> Hydrosoluble active ingredient incorporation

=> Cost saving

- Cold process

=> Sustainable approach

FUNCTION

/

Preservative Chelating agent

Anti-aging ingredient

Powder Powder Powder Gelling-emulsifying agent

Silicone Silicone Silicone

Anti-oxidant

Preservative

Surprising low in silicone texture

Progeline™

Lecigel™

- New technical application of Lecigel™: o Able to create Si/W emulsions o Emulsify silicones (15%)

- High sensoriality o Cool effect o Lightness sensation

- Active ingredient penetration booster - Hydration - High versatility => so every formulator should be working with Lecigel™!

- Reverse anti-aging peptide acting directly on progerin, a senescence marker

- Works deeply into the skin: o Reduces wrinkles o Provides an anti-gravity effect

My Perfect Foundation

• Foundation with high content pigments offering an ideal coverage for a flawless result

• Medium/ full coverage

• Dark skin tone

• Fluid texture with a great slippery effect despite high content pigments thanks to Heliofeel™ & Ecogel™

• A super anti-aging combo encapsulated in liposomes via Pro-Lipo™ Neo technology for better efficacy:

₋ Elix-IR™ to prevent premature skin photo-aging by repairing dermis from UV & IR damages

₋ Riboxyl™ to reload skin cells with new energy

FUNCTION

Chelating agent Gelling-emulsifying agent

Pigment Co-emulsifier Humectant

Emulsifier

Emollient Emollient Antioxidant Wax/Thickener

Silicone

Silicone

Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant Pigment dispersant

Pro-liposome Anti-aging ingredient Anti-aging ingredient

Preservative Fragrance

Pleasant texture even with many pigments offering a flawless result!

Ecogel™

Anti-aging combo encapsulated in liposomes

Stabilizing agent role having synergistic effects with Heliofeel™: - Reinforces spreadability even in combination with silicones - Pleasant slippery sensation Easier application and more homogeneous result

Heliofeel™

- Emulsifier role - Versatile ingredient => emulsify:

o 25% oil phase o High percentage of pigments (11%) o Silicones (13%)

while keeping fluid and light texture

- Riboxyl™ to reload skin cells with new energy => reducing wrinkles and reviving dull skin

- Elix-IR™ to repair dermis from UV & IR damages => skin photo-aging prevention

=> Entrapment of both active ingredients in liposomes easily created with the proprietary technology Pro-Lipo™ Neo => better and faster efficacy

Cream-to-Powder - What is it?

• Creamy texture transforms into a silky powder upon application

• Offers the comfort and smoothing effect of a cream with the hold of a powder

• Main component: silicones

• Used for many years in foundation

• Today, it targets eye shadow products!

My Shimmering Eyeshadow Cream

• Astonishing cream-to-powder for a perfect smoky eye with an intense color

• Innovative silicone-free creamy texture with a fantastic, easy, pleasant and soft application thanks to Biophilic™ H that dries down to a powdery finish

• Applicable to cream-to-powder foundations

FUNCTION

Emollient Emollient Butter/thickener Wax/thickener Fatty Alcohol /thickener Emollient Emollient

Pigment dispersant

Pigment dispersant

Pigment dispersant

Powder Powder Powder

Powder Perlescent agent

Perlescent agent Perlescent agent

Texturizing agent

Antioxidant Fragrance

Innovative silicone-free cream-to-powder eyeshadow!

Biophilic™ H

- Texture enhancer role at the process end - Compatibility with pigments (7.05% of pure pigments vs. 14.5% of

pigments dispersions) and especially pearlescent pigments (25%) => nicer, more intense and long-lasting color

- Creamy aspect provided (visually and on picking) thanks to the synergy of the fatty components of Biophilic™ H

- Fantastic skin feel WITHOUT silicones! - Easy and even application while providing total skin comfort - No specific precaution for the process:

o More homogeneous and smooth aspect during process o No retraction in the jar over time

Without Biophilic™ H With Biophilic™ H => Smoother and more homogeneous formula

Introduction step of Biophilic™ H

Retraction phenomenon observed on several products of the market

Phospholipids reduce friction between the different components Fluidity increasing Better pouring

Lipstick - What is it?

• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments, oils, waxes, and emollients that apply color, shine, texture, and protection to the lips

• Essential accessory of a woman

• Many forms: stick, balm, pencil, liquid (gloss, stain)…

• Many colors

• Different coverages: light, medium, full, long-wearing, no transfer

• Different finishes: natural, sheer, matt, glossy, glitter…

My Gorgeous Lip Lacquer

• A liquid lip color perfect combo between a lipstick and a gloss that gathers both intense color and ultra-shine

• A creamy and non-sticky texture with a even and comfortable application

• A nice slippery even with no silicones thanks to Macadamia Oil

• No mineral oils inside

• Active liquid lipstick highlighting 2 lipophilic active ingredients

₋ Anti-aging benefits with SWT-7™ L

₋ Hydrating properties with Amisol Trio™

=> For a redefined and sexy smile!

FUNCTION

Wax Wax Film-former Butter Emollient Anti-oxidant Anti-aging ingredient Hydrating ingredient

Pigments

Complete action on lips for a redefined and sexy smile

Amisol Trio™

SWT-7™ L

Lipophilic anti-aging high-tech active ingredient that: - Stimulates keratinocyte growth factor production from adipose-derived

stem cells (ADSC) and improves epidermis regeneration. - Rapidly blurs vertical wrinkles of the lip contour and consequently

reduces migration of lipstick.

Bio-lipid complex that: - Brings a visual and sensorial creamy aspect - Helps improve the shine and provides a homogenous rendering. - Gives lips comfort and intense hydration thanks to its refattening

properties

Colorless oil rich in fatty acids (oleic and palmitoleic acids) that: - Nourishes and softens lips - Provides a soft & velvet skin feel

SCB Macadamia Oil

All you need to create top-level color cosmetic products with sensoriality and activity!

The Makeup Kit