96 QUEENSLAND COUNTRY LIFE 7 March 2013 queenslandcountrylife.com.au

T &C south

THERE is some charm towaking up in a strange citywhen you are feeling rested

and comfortable. It will be in historic Siena, a hilltown in southern Tuscany.The sounds of unfamiliar yet roman-tic language at breakfast is from themany buon giornos which are pleas-ing.Anticipate the day. The first visit isto be one hour’s drive to the south,among the hardy forests, clingingvineyards, pencil cypress pine,freshly ploughed white clay ridges,hill town hamlets (always thetrusted and sturdy Tuscan architec-ture) until you reach the grape prideof Tuscany. This is Montalcino, some of thelongest living wines in Italianhistory, magnificent drinks, made ofthe earth, called Brunello diMontalcino.A drive past the perched high-on-the-hill town of Montalcino is next;we’ll be back visiting her later in theday after a winery tasting.The road snakes as less flashy butrecklessly-driven small cars buzzaround our bus in frustration. But that is fine as this is not a fasttour; it is measured, relaxed, late indeparting our luxury hotel yet capa-ble of capturing the beautiful tastesof Tuscany in low gear.The bus turns off the Grechetto roaddown a lesser track; hemmed bycypress, sandy white road edgesfrom the clay, down a narrow stripof road to the restored 12th centurychurch of Santa Restituta, andbehind it looms a low key winery.A young winemaker with impecca-ble English, bright smiles, mid-waythrough her sangiovese harveststrides to introduce herself; “I amMilena Danei”.We are at a property where visitinginvitations are rare. Access to such a wonderful wine-maker-led tasting under the rejuve-nated gouged sandstone cellar of

Angelo Gaja’s Pieve Santa Restitutais limited, and the two single vine-yard Brunellos-Rennina andSugarille are simply artistic to themouth.This is sculpture in taste – delicate yetmouth filling, bitter yet sweet, entic-ing to the palate but best swallowedto survey the languid after flavours. The winery gains its name from theparish church, or “Pieve,” of SantaRestituta of the property and onlysangiovese grosso from four sepa-rate vineyards of 16 hectares ismade here.Guests on this tour learn muchabout their own taste skills anddesires to share these with theirdining friends on return.You could be on this wine and foodtour. It is a discovery of a slice of theSienese and Florentine mix ofencountering the food flavourswhile being driven with air-condi-tioned ease by a caring local driverthrough forested hillsides of lankysangiovese grape vines.The vines shimmer against the clearblue skies in the noon day sun, andwisps of white dust arise from thebus.

We are on a dirt track, past thewalled town of Badia in ChiantiClassico wine region, heading for atraditional lunch overlooking a vine-yard at Massimo’s La Cantinetta diRignana.There will be a rich and heartyantipasti, needed to wash down theAntinori vermentino before we starton the main exercise – experiencinggiant Florentine T-bone steaks,smoky from an open wood fire, smallserves from a gigantic 1.5kg slice.

But the lunch will be a long one;appetites have been accumulatedfrom tasting Chiantis, those mediumtextured, drying red wines whichneed Tuscan nibbles to give flavoursatisfaction to each guest on the tour.The wines have been chosen weeksbefore by a master of wine and canbe purchased in Australia. Now is the time to supervise thewine service, confirm the wines,check for any cork taint (regrettablysome regions of Italy still prohibit

the screw cap), organise the orderso guests receive the correct winepaired with each dish, and pouredas the dish arrives.There is ultra-dry white to start –local variety vernaccia followed by achardonnay sauvignon blend – veryItalianesque white wines, pale,mineral, flint, antipasti-loving.Great effort is taken with the servicedetail as the take-home message forguests is to drink their Italian vari-etal wines on returning home withthe food they serve. After this tour, all that is left is“arrivaderci” to soak up the culturalexperiences.

❖ Peter Scudamore-Smith is a wine writerfor Fairfax Agricultural Media. He has amaster of wine, and operates food and winetours through Italy.

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Slow foodingin Tuscany Slow foodingin Tuscany

Peter Scudamore-Smith guides guests throughthe restaurants, wineries and sights of Tuscany

in ancient lands of central Italy.

The Siena street scene, Duomo.

Italian taste indulgence of prawntaglierini, with zucchini flower.

Sangiovese vines are framed by a Tuscan castello rustic gate, and the Montalcino hills.

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