Symbol SyntaxThe rules of pattern layout and cutting

Straight of Grain A line with arrows on both ends means that

this line needs to be parallel with the selvage edge.

Place on Fold This means that when your fabric is folded

the side of the pattern piece with this symbol should be placed on the edge of the fold. You do not cut the folded edge.

Cutting Lines and Sizes Patterns come in different sizes.

Cut the patterns on the dotted line that is the right size for you

Notches These are triangle shapes marks that you cut

into your fabric to show you how to line up pattern pieces.

Button Placement/Buttonholes The “X” shows where the button should be

sewn onto and the other mark is where you should make the button hole

Circles, dots, and squares Symbols used for placement

Alteration marks Pattern markings to let you know how to

change a pattern to fit you

Tucks, Darts

Pattern Piece Placement

Cutting Line and Seam Allowance The solid line is for cutting The dotted line is the seam allowance

Selvage Edge The Edge that won’t fray The tightly woven edges on two of the

opposite sides of the fabric Parallel to the lengthwise grains

Pre-shrinking Always preshrink your fabric before you cut

out patterns This helps your project to be the size you

intended Avoids any problems shrinking differences

Nap or one way directional fabric Nap- Velvet, corduroy Fabric has to be facing a certain way for all

printed pictures to be facing right side up Extra fabric must be purchase to make sure

you have enough

Grains Lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage

edge Crosswise grain is perpendicular (or at a 90

degree angle) to the selvage edge.

So….what is a pattern symbol? Marks on pattern pieces to help you identify,

lay out, cut, mark and sew each piece. Pattern symbols can also tell you where to

lengthen, shorten or otherwise alter a pattern piece.

Recognizing pattern symbols What is the difference between a straight of

grain arrow and a place on the fold arrow? Straight of grain needs to parallel to, but not on

the selvage edge

Place on fold means the edge of the pattern piece needs to be place ON the folded edge.

How do you know when to transfer a pattern symbol? 1. If the symbol does not get cut out as part of

the pattern, such as notches 2. If you need the mark for correct placement

of other pieces, such as pockets, sleeves or collars.

3. If you need to sew something in the middle of a pattern, such as tucks, darts, pleats, or button holes

Transfer pattern symbols after you cut out your pattern but before you remove your pattern.

Tracing Wheel and Paper Best used when you are

transferring larger symbols with straight lines, such as darts.

Less effective for symbols like placement dots or button placement markings

Tracing wheel and carbon paper 1. Use a paper color that you will be able to

see on your fabric 2. Place the colored, waxy side against the

wrong side of your fabric 3. Rematch the pattern and fabric ends 4. Mark all symbols by pressing down firmly

on the wheel and using short strokes

Pin and chalk Instructions

STEP 1: Transfer marks using pins and a chalk fabric pencil or marking pen.

STEP 2: Support fabric with one hand, and insert pins through all layers of fabric along outline of pattern mark.

STEP 3: Carefully turn pattern piece over and use marking pencil or pen to mark where the pins are placed in the fabric

STEP 4: Turn pattern piece over so that tissue side is facing up.

STEP 5: Remove Pattern. Once again, follow the outline made by the marking pins to trace the pattern mark onto your fabric.