$19.99 U.S.

H o l i d a y / R e g i o n a l

81⁄2 x 81⁄2 inches Hardcover 96 Pages

100 Color Photographs

Christmas in Santa Fe

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Christmas in Santa Fe

s u s a n to p p W e b e r W i t h F o r e W o r d by to m i e d epao l a

s u s a n to p p W e b e r

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Susan Topp Weber has owned and operated Susan’s Christmas Shop, on the Plaza in Santa Fe, for more than thirty years. She lectures on New Mexico’s Christ-mas traditions for Elderhostels held in Santa Fe and the Pueblos each December.

Jacket Photographs:Front cover, front flap, and back flap © 2010 Josef TornickBack cover © 2010 Efrain M. Padro

Jacket design by Debra McQuiston

Christmas in Santa Fe and northern New Mexico is full of enchantment: farolitos line buildings and walks, pueblos are filled with the sounds and sights of tradi-tional dances, adobe churches like the Santuario de Chimayo are cloaked in snow and glowing lights, and crowds gather to watch the Spanish plays on the Plaza.

Christmas in this historic region is a rich cultural feast of Spanish, Anglo, and Native American tradi-tions. Christmas in Santa Fe captures and preserves those traditions through intriguing stories and beau-tiful photos. Santa Fe native Susan Topp Weber chron-icles the best of what the region has to offer, guiding readers to the magic of Santa Fe and northern New Mexico’s holiday season.

In 1992, I spent an entire Christmas season in Santa Fe. That Christmas sojourn was so perfect that I’ve always hesitated to try to repeat it. I would rather keep the magic intact in my memory than run the risk of being disappointed if a second time didn’t stand up to the first. That is, until now. Susan’s book has made me realize that I’ve missed some truly exciting treats. —Tomie dePaola

C9 Foreword11 Introduction

15 Christmas Past15 Christmas in New Mexico’s Colonial Days16 Christmas in Nineteenth-Century Santa Fe18 Christmas in Twentieth-Century Santa Fe

21 Christmas Traditions21 Luminarias, Farolitos, and Flying Farolitos27 The Spanish Christmas Plays of New Mexico33 Biscochitos, New Mexico’s State Cookie

35 Christmas Events35 Thanksgiving Weekend 38 The Shed and Susan’s Christmas Shop43 La Fonda at Christmas46 St. Nicholas Bazaar48 The Christmas Concerts57 December 11 and 12, Guadalupe Day58 Christmas at the Palace 59 Las Posadas on the Plaza62 Gustave Baumann’s Marionettes63 The Christmas Trains of Santa Fe67 Nacimientos (Nativities)70 Christmas Eve, La Noche Buena77 New Year’s Eve in Santa Fe and New Year’s Day

79 Christmas Out Of Town79 Matachines Dances on Guadalupe Day at Jemez Pueblo 83 The High Road to Taos87 The Pueblos at Christmas

94 Glossary94 Suggested Reading95 Resources96 Christmas Calendar

contents

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Cchristmas traditions

Luminarias, Farolitos, and Flying FarolitosSanta Fe is famous for its distinctive Christmas lights, especially those seen along Canyon Road on Christmas Eve. In centuries past, long before paper bags were commonly available, bonfires (called luminarias in northern New Mexico Spanish) lit the way for the Santo Niño, the Christ Child, on Christmas Eve. They are care-fully laid with pieces of split piñon or cedar wood, forming a square stack with lots of air between the uniformly sized kindling. Luminarias make a warm fire, but they are smoky and need to be fed more fuel to stay lit. On Canyon Road on Christmas Eve, luminarias are still lit today, attracting pedestrians who stop to warm up and sing Christmas carols around the fire.

Sometimes three luminarias are built to symbolize the Holy Trinity or the Three Kings (the three Wise Men), and several Santa Fe residences still keep up this tradition. One Santa Fe family had a son in the U.S. Navy when Pearl Harbor was bombed. The son was not very good at keeping in touch with his family, and they feared the worst, even though his duty as a trumpet player made it highly unlikely that he was in danger. They prayed for their son’s safe return and made a vow to light three luminarias on Christmas Eve. No sooner had they done so than the son walked through the front door. They later learned that he was not in Pearl Harbor when it was attacked but was in a bar in Tijuana with a friend instead!

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4 ChrisTmas OuT OF TOwn

The Pueblos at ChristmasChristmas just isn’t complete without visits to the pueblos to watch dances and see friends. There are so many choices that the most difficult aspect is choosing which pueblo to visit and when to go. The following are the pueblos most likely to have Christmas dances. Many of these pueblos are within an hour’s drive of Santa Fe.

Pueblos north of santa FeTesuque PuebloTesuque Pueblo is the closest pueblo to Santa Fe. It is not the same as the Tesuque Village just north of Santa Fe. Since Tesuque Pueblo is so close to Santa Fe, it has long been a favorite pueblo for watch-ing dances. It is known for its fine embroidered

costumes and its beautiful animal dances. Tesuque Pueblo features dances on Christmas Day and the day after. Most likely an animal dance will be per-formed, and seeing a Tesuque animal dance is highly recommended. Tesuque Pueblo also dances on New Year’s Day and January 6, Kings’ Day. The dances on those days can also be animal dances.

Ohkay Owingeh Ohkay Owingeh is located about twenty-six miles north of Santa Fe. This pueblo was assigned the patron saint of San Juan when the Spanish first encountered the village over four hundred years ago; so, historically the village was known as San Juan Pueblo.

VisiTing TEsuquE PuEbLO

Drive seven and a half miles north on NM 84/285. Turn south

at mile marker 173.5 onto Tribal Road 806. After crossing Tesuque Creek, turn right. You will soon see the vil-

lage plaza and church. Call (505) 867-3304

for more information.

Matachines dancers at Jemez Pueblo. Photo by Ann Murdy.