Surphang Magazine

Issue 5

Champ ChatsMidsummer Day Dream

Two Ts

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'In it to win it!'The world is a funny old place. There's always something completely opposite to something else – good, bad; high, low; up, down; big, small; dry, wet; hot, cold; clear, cloudy; offshore, onshore – the list goes on and on! And so you can guarantee there will always been someone out there who thinks the complete opposite to yourself – 'one man's rags are another man's riches'and all that. So what's the point to all this then? Surely if there's always someone out there who's going to think the opposite, there's not much point in bothering in the first place.

As an editor and photographer, I love what I've put in this issue. Some of you will read this and be inspired by the message; but some of you won't even bother to read it and will just look at the shot; some of you might like the shot; but some of you won't! And that's exactly the point. Although some of you may hate it, some of you will hopefully like it and so that's why I do it! It's simple really, if you don't give it a go, you'll never know!

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Surphang Magazine

One surfer who's always in there and up in the air whatever it's like – Alex Baker, CroydePhoto: Stu Gaston

So this issue is all about the surfers who just get in there and give it a go. The surfers who rock up to the beach and aren't bothered if

it's big or small, hot or cold, offshore or onshore, empty or crowded, but just get out there and surf. The surfers who train

come rain or shine, who enter a comp whether they're going to win or lose,

who simply get out there whatever the conditions because they know

'you've got to be in it to win it!'

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This Issue's Features

Champ Chats- Taylor on topHe made it as an NSSA Champion last year so we talk to Breyden Taylor about his journey to the top spot.

Surphangaway- Two TsTwo teams of up coming British surfers head to Portugal to top up on the Two Ts and we don't just mean their tans!

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A perfect summer's day in CornwallPhoto: Stu Gaston

This Issue

EPIC ERICEIRA- From Foz to Coxos'This beach is considered by experts as the best in Europe for surfing'. Quite a claim! Needs checking out!

Midsummer Day DreamWe're all dreaming of a summer of fun surf so what are the chances?

Champ ChatsTaylor on top

Words and photos: stu gaston

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Breyden Taylor typifies that breed of surfer who just gets out there and surfs, whatever the conditions and through his efforts he proves that by being in it, you can indeed win it! All his hard work certainly paid off in 2011 as he became one of the standout surfers of the season, clinching his first NSSA conference in the Southwest Explorer Juniors division and from there he went on to take home his first career National title. Impressed by such focus and determination, we just had to have a chat with this American champ.

Breyden Taylor tail high above the wave as he takes to the air.

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SM: The past couple of months have seen you performing well on the

competitive circuit. Talk us through the contest highs and lows that lead to you

earning your champion title.

BT: Well I had a good run towards the end of the year with a win in the last

NSSA so it definitely gave me confidence going into the Nationals.

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CHAMPCHATS

You had to overcome some solid surfing from your contenders. How do you rate your surfing peers at the moment?

Very high! Everyone is surfing really well indeed – lots of big airs! I've had to really work on my game!

You've been surfing against some of these guys most of your competitive life. There must be different levels of camaraderie or rivalry in the ranks. How does this affect the way you surf in a heat?

I have had rivals for as long as I have been competing. It's only natural. You just have to rise above and do your best. It definitely makes you try and push harder.

Breyden's got air reverses down.

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So which of them did you least want to be drawn up against in

a heat and why?

There isn't anyone I look to draw up against. I try and just

be ready for whichever opponent I am presented with.

And now being a champion, does that go down as your best

victory to date?

Yes, biggest one for sure.

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Name: Breyden TaylorAge: 17Nickname: BTYears surfing: 10Where you live: Southern CaliforniaSponsors: Body Glove, Bubble gum, Filtrate, CreaturesLocal break/s: T-Street

Favourite surfer? Mick FanningFavourite place to surf? LowersFavourite surf movie? Modern CollectiveFavourite surf trick? Air reverseFavourite board? ...lost

What got you into surfing? My dad

When and how did you become sponsored? Somebody saw me surfing

Breyden brings that tail up top again.

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What moment are you most proud of in your surfing career so far?

Winning Nationals

Who in surfing inspires you most? Kelly Slater

What do you prefer, free surfing or competitions and why?

Competition. Brings out the best or worse in you.

What song motivates you before a surf? Eye of the Tiger

When and where was your best surf session? Talk us through it.

T-Street... waves were great!

What's the worst wipeout of your life? Pipeline this winter.

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CHAMPCHATS

Continuing Twenty Twelve as a champ then, what's next? What are your goals for the rest of this year?

Try and back up my title the next year.

And what about training? How do you keep on top of fitness and keep on pushing your surfing?

I've been training with DSC for the past 3 years or so. It really helps my fitness.

Breyden on top of another air reverse.

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Now you already live in California with some top quality waves like Lower Trestles right on

your doorstep! But what about plans for travelling?

I am always traveling for Pro Juniors across the country. As far as surf trips go, I always head to Hawaii in the winter and we'll have

to just see what else is in store!

Finally, where do you see yourself in five to ten years time?

I see myself pursuing points on the QS and

just trying to build my seed.

13 - SM BT's got another move pretty much wired!

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What do you do when you don't surf? Hang out with friends

Do you train as well as surf? Yes

And if you didn't surf at all, what sport would you play?

Basketball

If you had unlimited money, what would you buy?

Houses all over the world

What's your most overused word? Ya

What's your goal for the next year? Win again!

And what about the future? We will have to see where the wind takes me.

Two Ts

Lewis Leadbetter's surfing is all about the 'Two Ts'.

Words and photos: stu gaston

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surphangaway

For many, Twenty Twelve is all about two things.... The Olympics and the End of the World. With any luck we won't be witnessing our own cataclysmic end come December (at this point reader, please

touch the nearest wooden object, even though apparently it's no longer really a problem because

someone read the Mayan calendar wrong in the first place and the world never was going to

end in Twenty Twelve anyway... idiots!)and so that just leaves The Olympics,

the biggest sporting event to cometo our shores in the past six decadesor so some may say. But why are we,

the surfing community, interested in The Olympics? The sport of surfing isn't

one of those considered mainstream enough to be included (yet this could

well change within the current decade) so what does all the hype surrounding

this major event have to offer us?

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surphangaway

Well, three decades ago, for those of us old enough to remember, there was a man who sang a title song that resonated with many aspiring to be the best in their own field of sport. His name was Roy Castle and his message was simple... If you wanna be the best, if you wanna beat the rest, dedication's what you need! Thirty years or so ago, it may have been as simple as that. Stick at something long enough, work at it as hard as you can and you'll succeed. But times have changed and in this Twenty First Century, competition is as stiff as ever! Mere dedication alone is no longer enough. Nowadays, if you want to be the best and if you want to beat the rest, there are two key things you need – the two 'T's, Training and Talent.

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Ben Sowter puts it all into practice at Baleal, Peniche in Portugal. SM - 18

Over the past few years, surfing has seen a boom in the training culture. It's now quite common to see a pack of focused and driven young surfers arrive on the beach, hungry for waves with coach and camcorder in hot pursuit ready for what has become the standard training tool - the video analysis session. But the sport of surfing isn't just about the people involved and that's one of the main reasons why it's not yet made it as an Olympic sport.

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surphangaway Every wave ever surfed will be different from every

other wave out there. In short, no two waves are ever the same and it's this lack of a level playing field that

has been the bone of contention. Even at the most consistent point breaks around the world, waves will

always be different because there are so many factors to consider – swell size, swell direction, wind

speed, wind direction to mention but a few!

Will Davey makes the most of this wave at Praia das Macas in Portugal. SM - 20

surphangaway

So more often than not, that wave hungry pack of surfers is met by a less than appetising scene of onshore slop! Unless of course you take them to one of the most consistent places for good surf around. Unfortunately the budget didn't extend to Hawaii but there is the Pipeline of Europe just a shorthaul fight away. And that's how I found myself on more than one occasion in Twenty Eleven stood at Supertubes in the small fishing town of Peniche in Portugal shooting with twenty-one of Britain's top Junior surfers.

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Ben Sowter in a small but perfectly formed barrel at Supertubes, Peniche. SM - 22

These twenty-one surfers had been hand-picked from around the British Isles for their potential surfing skills that with a bit of nurturing could make them something to keep an eye on in the years to come. This was the rationale behind Simon Eyre’s original idea – to take teenage surfers who showed promise and talent but as yet hadn’t been given much backing or technical input and to then work with them in better waves than they're used to, pointing them in the right direction so that they can make the most of the sport that they love. In other words, take the talent to the perfect training grounds of Portugal. It certainly worked for Simon's own son, Luis Eyre who moved to Portugal when he was 11 and is now UK Pro Junior Champion eight years later!

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surphangaway

Always up in the air, Luis Eyre is a testimony to the Two Ts approach. SM - 24

surphangaway

Ben Sowter's dedication paid off, getting in deep for his efforts. 25 - SM

The first trip in February saw the first mixed bunch of ten surfers, mostly in their late teens, but stand outs

for dedication that week were two Cornish surfers, now both Lifeguards by day and many other things by night! Ben Sowter from the Badlands area of Cornwall surfed confidently and was one of the few on the trip

to get some great stand-up barrels alongside Luis who of course surfs there as a second home!

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Bert Wright loving a long barreling left at Supertubes. 27 - SM

surphangaway

Meanwhile goofy footer, Bert Wright from deepest darkest

Kernow (well Penzanze) was also getting pitted a plenty on the

lefts peeling back towards Peniche harbour itself. Both

were loving it and would have happily stayed longer than the week we were out there, being

seasoned surf travellers, who have both been recently getting pitted out of their brains in Indo!

Bert Wright on a right off the harbour wall at Peniche.

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The Atlantic's Eleven in June:Alex, Alex, Ricky, Kirk, Jack

and Will (top, left to right);Callum, Ben, Lewis, Max and

Raife (bottom, left to right)

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surphangawayFour months later, and the second set of eleven youngsters, still frothing constantly at the sight of epic surf, set foot in Peniche. Supertubes may now have become a more mellow summer beach break but it still provided some fun grom sized barrels for them to get a taste of this world renowned wave. Nonetheless the rest of the week offered these wave hungry surfers some of the best waves that this European wave magnet of a country had to savour.

Alex Maddocks, Lewis Leadbetter and crew head down to Praia das Macas. SM - 30

surphangaway

Max Pechonis pointing in the right direction at Peniche. 31 - SM

Among the crew were some young sponsored hot shots, such as Max Pechonis from Bude and Alex Gibson from Woolacombe, both currently signed with clothing brand, Protest.

Alex Gibson going up in the world at Praia das Macas. SM - 32

Lewis Leadbetter having some high tide fun in Portugal. 33 - SM

surphangaway

Alongside them, fown in from the Canary Islands were current

UK Pro Surf Tour Under 16 Champion and Quiksilver

sponsored Will Davey and fellow islander, Lewis Leadbetter who had recently been snapped up

by footwear giant, Sanuk. All four of them were surfing really

well in the conditions on offer and Simon was once again

impressed by their performance.

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surphangaway

Alex Maddocks launching his log at Foz do Lizandro.35 - SM

Nonetheless, stand out of the week had to be Animal sponsored Alex

Maddocks from Croyde who had a notably natural wave-riding talent,

one which he was more than able to turn to both shortboarding and his

own preference of longboarding. In fact, Simon was heard to comment

more than once on the effortless way young Alex knocked a board

of that length around in the powerful waves off Portugal!

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But for Alex, the trip was memorable for many reasons:“My favourite day had to be our surf out front of the lodge at Praia das Macas. I started off my surf on my log and realized it wasn’t exactly ideal longboarding conditions so jogged up to the house, grabbed my shortboard and got back in. I got two sick barrels that surf and they will be stuck in my memory for a long old time!

Alex Maddocks making a green room memory.37 - SM

surphangaway

The whole trip was super fun! We got to surf such a variety of

waves from a rippy shorebreak, playful beachies to overhead

barrels. With a fairly large group of us, every day was a

laugh and even when the waves weren’t pumping, which

wasn’t too often, we still had fun! I love Portugal now; it’s not

as crowded as France but the waves in my opinion are just as

good! I had an epic trip, made some friends, surfed twice or

three times every day and had better waves in 7 days than we

get in a whole year in England!”

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surphangaway

Alex Maddocks riding 'on top of a wave' at Praia das Macas.39 - SM

Certainly, Alex's dedication to his surfing, along with the other twenty surfers involved, typifies for all those focused and driven

groms out there how the two 'T's of Training and Talent really are

the way forward if you want to go far in the surfing community.

Alex has proven this being the BLU Under 16 Champion in 2010

and is now currently fourth in the Under 18s and ninth in the

Open, working towards more title holding positions for

Twenty Twelve.

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It's all pointing in the right direction for Alex and Max in Portugal. 41 - SM

surphangawaySeeing how much all these lads came

on during their weeks working with Simon and surfing alongside Luis was

testament enough to the success of the original vision – bringing young

talent together, giving them the chance to train and focus on where to

go next and then sending them off with the knowledge to really push

their surfing to the limits! And who knows, with that in mind, perhaps one

of them might exceed the current limits and become one of the first ever

surfers to take part in the sport at a future Olympic Games!

Only time will tell!

Lewis Leadbetter pushing the limits in Portugal. SM - 42

EPIC ERICEIRAFrom Foz to Coxos

Words anD photos: stu gaston

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Hot SpotsThe writing's literally on the wall:'This beach is considered by experts

as the best in Europe for surfing.' So it'stime to check out this surfing hot spot!

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Hot SpotsFoz do LizandroLiterally 'The Mouth of theLizandro' this beach break liesto the south of Ericeira and isperfect in almost all conditions. From small fun summer waves tostormier semi-sheltered high tidesurf, Foz can offer something for everyone.

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Always up in the air whatever the conditions, Luis Eyre on form at Foz. SM - 46

Foz do Lizandro

Lewis Leadbetter kicks out a spray fan at Foz do Lizandro.

Alex Maddocks knocking his log around in some fun summer surf.

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Hot Spots

Alex Gibson going big with his backhand on a right at Foz. SM - 48

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MatadouroJust north of the centre of Ericeira,nestled at the end of the valley lies the slightly sheltered beachbreak known as Praia do Matadouro. Thiscan be a good spot to check when there's a decent swell but the wind is a bit strong and onshore as it has a bit of shelter from the nearby cliffs.With both rights and lefts, it can be afun wave giving enough scope for a few good turns. It's easy to find as it'sright opposite the new Boardriders which was opened at the Quiksilver Pro in Ericeira in 2011.

Hot Spots

SM - 50 Luis Eyre attacks the right at Matadouro.

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Matadouro

Luis Eyre making the most of the wave at Matadouro.

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Hot Spots

Luis Eyre (top) and Will Davey with some backhand attack.

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Hot Spots

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Ribeira d'IlhasLong and powerful rightsbreak over this sharp andfairly shallow reef giving

world quality waves – thiswas the contest site for the

Quiksilver Pro in 2011.

55 - SM Luis Eyre riding it all the way with turn after turn at Ribeira.

Ribeira d'Ilhas

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Hot Spots

Luis uses the power of the wave to his advantage.

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Ribeira d'Ilhas

Once again, Luis works the wave with a top scoring ride at Ribeira.

Hot Spots

SM - 58 The right at Ribeira offers some nice air sections too.

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Ribeira d'Ilhas

In perfect conditions, Ribeira can give a great tube ride too.

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Hot Spots

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Hot SpotsCrazy LeftCrazy by name,crazy by nature- it's that simple!

For the goofy footers, its Crazy Left that gives the best barrels going.

SM - 62 Volcom rider, Tomas Valente deep in the green room.

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CoxosNorth of Ericeira itselflies this world renownedrighthander, arguably the best wave in Portugal. But beware – it is also highly localised so take care!

Once again Luis Eyre works the wave from bottom to top at Coxos.

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Hot Spots

And the famous right at Coxos offers some nice air sections too.

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Midsummer Day Dream

Luis Eyre busting a Midsummer Day air at Constantine in 2010. What will 2012 bring?

Words anD photos: stu gaston

The Goss

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Although the 21st June is known as Midsummer Day, it is actually considered as the start of summer, not the middle of it at all. Yet astronomically

speaking, it's the day with the longest hours of daylight and so the shortest hours of darkness because of the Earth's position. Well that's all well and

good but at the end of the day, all we want to know is how warm this summer's going to be and whether there's going to be some waves!

But judging on the year we've had so far, any hope of a lengthy warm sunny spell coupled with decent surfable waves seems like a distant dream!

So far only long flat spells and lots of rain have been the talking points of surfers all along the coastline as the UK has seen pretty bad surf conditions!

So is this a sign of things to come? Is global warming having a significant effect on weather patterns and plaguing us with a lack of good waves and weather? Or is it always similar to this and Twenty Twelve is just

getting off to a really slow start with much better things still to come?

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The Goss

Well interestingly 2010 began in a fairly similar way. By April, there'd been maybe only a couple of really good weeks of surf and then by May, it had also seen a pretty lengthy flat spell. The only difference two years ago was that another craze had hit the scene – The Flowrider! Wave starved surfers rushed in their hoards to try out the latest adrenalin filled phenomenon and so found another way to take their minds off the lack of real waves and simply get wet and have fun. But once the hype subsided, most realised that that was all it did – get them wet! And so the artificial versus natural wave debate goes on (especially with Kelly himself to be the latest to jump on the bandwagon)! Meanwhile, Twenty Twelve has seen surfers all along the coast going crazy with no waves to fill their adrenalin addiction and no new substitute to surpass it (even tarp surfing seems to have had its day)!

SM - 68 Alex Kerry actually had the Flowrider down with the number

of times he gave it a go owing to the lack of real waves!

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Still 2010 did eventually improve and by mid June, some fun summer swells did begin to trickle in off the Atlantic. Then by July, things really started to kick off. If you timed it right, you could score some sheltered spots, usually only firing in the winter, right in the middle of summer and places such as Lynmouth in North Devon gave some notably out of season fun sessions.Mind you though, August saw a return of the flat spell but at least by then you know that the super swell season of September into October is coming!So two years ago saw a flat spell followed by a good month or so of sizeable swell only to be repeated all over again before the summer period was out.

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The Goss

Alex Baker scored a fun Lynmouth session early in July 2010.

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The Goss

Jack Clinton getting the most out of small fun summery waves in 2011.

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On the other hand, 2011 saw average but consistent swells through April, May and June and it wasn't until July that things

gradually slowed down into a more typical summer of small fun waves. By August, things picked up again with a pretty

good swell arriving just in time for the Boardmasters (and interestingly this had been a similar scenario in 2009) before

as ever the whole of the surfing community could sit back, relax and enjoy September when it arrived with the annual

hurricane season of swells well and truly underway!

So where does all this leave us for Twenty Twelve?

Well 2011 was similar to 2009 so with any luck the pattern

will follow and the swells that piled in during

July 2010 are brewing in the Atlantic just

waiting to take us all by surprise and realise

our midsummer dreams!

73 - SM Alex Baker punts off a sizeable swell in Croyde a couple of summers ago.Photo: Stu Gaston

THE

GALLERY

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75 - SM Even in small sloppy summery surf, Joss Ash still sees it through.Photo: Stu Gaston

GALLERY

THE

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THE

GALLERY

Alan Stokes also whips his board around despite the small, choppy surf.Photo: Stu Gaston77 - SM

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THE

GALLERY

Alex Baker flicks out the tail on a fun left at Lynmouth back in July 2010.Photo: Stu Gaston

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Surphang MagazineThat's five issues down then and by the time we get to number six, summer should be well and truly underway! Yay! Whether it will be hot and balmy or cool and drizzly is anyone's bet, but one thing's for sure, most of our top up and coming surfers won't really care because they'll have hot footed it over to Europe for the summer where they'll be pursuing their PJ dreams – no, it's not some hippy pyjama festival but the European ASP Pro Junior circuit of 2012. So the next issue will be looking at a summer across the water in Europe.

Surphangaway will be 'Basking in the Basque' as the tour reaches it's third stop in Sopelana and sees what a week in this northern area of Spain has to offer.

In the fresh new 'Hot Shots' section, we look at who has 'PJ Potential' and who could take the 2012 title.

'The Goss' comes from 'Le Hoss' and fills us in on all the news from the French centre of surfing, Hossegor.

And finally we will once again catch up with a surfer at the top of their game in our regular 'Champ Chats'.

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Next Issue

Basking in the Basque

PJ Potential

The Goss from 'Le Hoss'

Surphang MagazineThanks for reading the Fifth issue of

Alex Maddocks simply stoked.Photo: Stu Gaston

'The best surfer out there

is the one having the most fun'

- Duke Kahanamoku