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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography

Jan/feb 2012

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shion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

Dear SUPERIOR readers,

The „Street“ is a place, which reflects everyday life. Its dynamic and architecture are a huge source ofinspiration for the creative individuals such as designers, artists and photographers.

Twelve photographers present their view of „Street“ in this first share of SUPERIOR ONLINE jan/Feb 2012, highly crucial and individual.

The second share of SUPERIOR ONLINE jan/Feb 2012 wilbe published on january 26th including an extensive Special on Fashion Week Berlin. You will get an impression on what to expect on the „Street“ thefollowing season.

Best wishes,

Tom, Marc and the SUPERIOR team

editorial


Fashion

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Ausgabe Jan/Feb 2012

Christoph Köstlin »7thAv/26thSt« 16

Sebastian Donath »straight« 74

Robert Klebenow »Rixdorf« 36

Laura Vanselow »give you all but noth-ing — a parisian rhapsody« 46

Jackie Hardt »Urbanfall« 54

Tobias Wirth »Entschleunigung« 64

Bastian Jung »la suite« 94

Alexandra Maria Sira »Daydreams« 84

Cover:photographer CHriStoPH kÖStlin

styling linda lundmake-up kim wHite

model diana r. @ muse nyCstyling assistent miCHael S.

Saskia Bonavita »Elégance« 106

Bastian Jung »la suite« 94

Imprint 154

Alexandra Maria Sira »Daydreams« 84

Alicia Freksa »material girl« 118

Elizaveta Porodina »cold or not, god is here« 124

Interview Tobias Grewe 136

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t h e F I n e st c lot h e s & acc e ss o r I e s Fo r t h e co n t e m P o r a rY g e n t l e m a n

7th Av

26thSt

Photography by:

CHRISTOPH KÖSTLIN

23

Dress: R/H

23

Dress: R/H

23

22

Top & Trousers: CARIN WESTER

Bracelet: PHILIPPE AUDIBERT

Pumps: ALL SAINTS

Dress: BEE QUEEN

Dress: KILLAH

Boots: MINIMARKET

Pumps: ALLSAINTS

Dress: COS

Bracelet: PHILIPPE AUDIBERT

Dress: KILLAH

Boots: MINIMARKET

Pumps: ALLSAINTS

Dress: COS

Bracelet: PHILIPPE AUDIBERTracelet: PHILIPPE AUDIBERT

Dress: R/H

Boots: VINTAGE ACNE

Leotard: HENRIK VIBSKOV

Longsleeve: MINI FOR MANY BY MINIMARKET

Vest: SHADOWCONNECTED

Coat: VINTAGE

Dress: ALLDRESSEDUP

Necklace: IOSSELLIANI

Shoes: STYLIST‘S OWN

Dress: ALLDRESSEDUP

Necklace: IOSSELLIANI

Shoes: STYLIST‘S OWNhoes: STYLIST‘S OWN

Dress:R/H

Boots: VINTAGE ACNE

Photography by:

CHRISTOPH KÖSTLIN

Styling by: LIDA LUND

Make-up by: KIM WHITE

Model: DIANA R. @ MUSE NYC

Styling Assistent: MICHAEL S.

Rixdorf

photography ROBERT KLEBENOWstyling VALERIE OSTER @ NUDE AGENCY

model AARON KRETSCHMER @ VIVA MODELShair/make-up CLAUDIA ROTOLI

photographer‘s assistance FRANZISKA PRüTZ

best-boy PATRICK R. GANTER

Rixdorf

blouson PATRICK MOHRtrousers FIRMAshoes HENRIK VIBSKOV

jacket SCHMIDTTAKAHASHItop MADS DINESENshorts HENRIK VIBSKOVsocks STYLIST‘S OWNshoes CHEAP MONDAY

jacket TIGER OF SWEDENshirt FIRMAtrousers PATRICK MOHR

west VLADIMIR KARALEEVpullover TIGER OF SWEDENshirt HENRIK VIBSKOVtrousers FIRMAsocks FALKEshoes VLADIMIR KARALEEV

coat VON BARDONITZcap STYLIST‘S OWNshirt WOOD WOODtrousers WOOD WOODsocks TOMMY HILFIGERcreepers UNDERGROUND

shirt BEN SHERMANtrousers COS

cap STYLIST‘S OWNshirt WOOD WOODtrousers WOOD WOODsocks TOMMY HILFIGERcreepers UNDERGROUND

blouson PATRICK MOHRbelt PATRICK MOHRpullover KILIAN KERNERshirt CHEAP MONDAYtrousers FIRMA

production & styling MARIE EISENHARDTphotographer LAURA VANSELOW

photographers assistant KONNI SCHMIDTmodel CHLOE APPLEWHITE @Studio KLRP Paris

make up/ hair ALLISON DEP

Give you all but nothinGa Parisian rhapsody

a Parisian rhapsody

DAKOTA woven elastic bra E-ERODEVON overbust harness E-ERO

skirt jESKO WILKEshoes STYLIST‘S OWN

DAKOTA woven elastic bra E-ERODARAH studded harness E-ERODAKOTA elastic high waisted panty E-EROleather shorts MELTEM

DEVON leather-stripe frame bra E-ERO jacket STYLIST‘S OWN

trousers DEGENEROTIKAbig mirror necklace KILLERDARLING

double ring KILLERDARLINGearring KILLERDARLING

DARAH studded harness bra E-EROshirt VINTAGE (PRADA)

DEVON leather-stripe frame bra E-EROjacket STYLIST‘S OWNtrousers DEGENEROTIKAbig mirror necklace KILLERDARLINGdouble ring KILLERDARLINGearring KILLERDARLING

cracked blouse jULIA BARTSCHLeather bust harness DEGENEROTIKAcamisole panty TRIUMPHshoes MODEL‘S OWN

photography jackie hardt model luise hauschild @ pma styling sarah sharon karsten @ nude hair suzana santalab @ modshair&makeup make up vanessa hagemann @ modshair &makeup

URBANFALL

jacket/vest STYLISTS OWNskirt ADDDRESS

hat STYLISTS OWNhat STYLISTS OWN

bathsuit MILA MIYAHARAcape Y3

jacket/vest STYLISTS OWN skirt ADDDRESS

heels jEFFREY CAMPBELLheels jEFFREY CAMPBELL

dress YOHjI YAMAMOTO VINTAGE coat Y3 shoes jEFFREY CAMPBELL

dress MILA MIYAHARA

pullover/trousers MONKIjacket jEREMY SCOTT FOR ADIDAS heels jEFFREY CAMPBELL

jacket CHEAP MONDAY hat MONKI

shirt TIGER OF SWEDENshort KILIAN KERNERbelt Z ZEGNAsocks BURLINGTONshoes jIL SANDER

blouson MADS NORGAARDsweater GUCCI

trousers ARMANIbelt BEN SHERMAN

jacket Z ZEGNAtrousers HENRIK VIBSKOVbelt YSLaccessoire jIL SANDER

blouson Z ZEGNAbelt FENDI

trousers PRADA

blouson KILIAN KERNERshort jIL SANDERbelt MCMsocks FALKEshoes UNITED NUDE

jeans shirt MINIMUMjacket ARMANI

hoodie MADS NORGAARDtrousers MINIMUM

belt DENHAMaccessire BEST BEHAVIOR

jacket Z ZEGNAtrousers MADS NORGAARDsweater MARKUS LUPFERbelt BEN SHERMAN

photographer: SEBASTIAN DONATH make up & hair / styling: MARIA EHRLICH

using ARMANI make upmodel: ASTRID STAUDINGER

assistant: MATTHIAS FEIERTAG

STRAIGHT

shades IC! BERLIN BIGBANG outfit KESSI LIFE

shades IC! BERLIN SOLO outfit TUTTI COLORI

shades IC! BERLIN OKI DOKI outfit TUTTI COLORI

shades IC! BERLIN SOLO outfit TUTTI COLORI

DaydreamsPhotography by: ALExANDRA MARIA SIRA

Daydreams

all clothes MELROSE, WASTELANDaccessoires VINTAGE

all clothes MELROSE, WASTELANDaccessoires VINTAGE

dress FOREVER21shades/accessoires H&M, FOREVER21

vest HARRIET SELLINGshirt VINTAGEshorts VINTAGEaccessoires FOREVER21shoes VINTAGE

photographer: ALExANDRA MARIA SIRAmake-up & hair: GABE jENKINSmodel: ARIEL HAUCK @LA Models, DESIREé KADDATZassistant: UWE EICHENBERG

La SuitePhotography: BASTIAN JUNGFashion: TIM LABENDAHair & Make-up: Tan Vuong [BASICS]Models: Jan Zühlke [PMA], Nicolai Lübbers [KULT], Leander Kirschner [VIVA]

La Suite

photographer SaSkia Bonavitamodel Corina Prinkey

all clothing uniCuS By wladimir arutti

Elégance

photographer SaSkia Bonavitamodel Corina Prinkey

all clothing uniCuS By wladimir arutti

photography ALICIA FREKSAstyling DANA ROSKI @Nudehair/makeup MISCHKA HART @Basicsmodel LEAH @Izaio Modelsset design FELIx LüHRINGlocation CAFé FARIOR

trousers C‘EST TOUTbody AMERICAN APPARELlazer jIL SANDER VINTAGEearrings VINTAGEbracelet FENDIrings WEEKDAY

jacket C‘EST TOUTbra AGENT PROVOCATEURpants AMERICAN APPARELearrings LVF DESIGNnecklace PRIVAT

top C‘EST TOUTskirt AMERICAN APPARELpumps BALENCIAGAbracelet FENDIrings WEEKDAYearings H&M TREND

bath robe NOVEMBERcollar RITA IN PALMApants AMERICAN APPARELpumps MARC jACOBSbraclet FENDI

blouse ONE TEASPOONpants AMERICAN APPARELnecklace VINTAGEhairband ASOS

COLD OR NOTGOD IS HERE

photography ELIZAVETA PRODINAmodels MATEI @ The Special Model Management, ANjA

hair ACACIO DA SILVA @PerfectProps Berlinmake up KARLA NEFF @ PerfectProps Berlin

all clothes KüHN // collection by Anja Laube

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We are happy to receive submissions ‘connected to fashion’ by photographers, film-makers, stylists, make-up & hair artists, models, artists and authors.

ART & DESIGN

STRAHLENDICHTE2011

T O B I A SG R E W E

TOBIAS GREWE IS ONE OF THE HOT NEW ARTISTS ON THE CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE IN THE RHINELAND. THE SELF-TAUGHT PHOTOGRAPHER CREATES AB-STRACT IMAGES WITH THE HELP OF EXTREME PERSPECTIVE, SKILFUL CROP-PING AND DELIBERATE OVEREXPOSURVE, AND CATEGORICALLY REJECTS THE USE OF ANY POST-PRODUCTION DIGITAL MANIPULATION. MARCEL KRENZ SPOKE WITH THE ARTIST IN HIS HOME AND STUDIO IN COLOGNE.

TUMBLING 2008

TUMBLING 2008

MARCEL KRENZ 2011 seemed to be your year - with a highly successful solo show in Cologne, a group exhibition in your home-town of Sundern, a new catalogue on your most recent works, and your inclusion in the long-awaited com-pendium „Rising – Young Artists to Keep an Eye On“ (DAAB Media, Cologne). And in 2012 we will see your works in solo shows in Düsseldorf and Thessaloniki, as well as in a group show at your main gallery Beck & Eggeling new quar-ters in Düsseldorf. How do you explain your sudden suc-cess?

TOBIAS GREWE First of all, no success comes overnight. It's always the result of hard work behind the scenes. But yes, there does seem to be more attention being paid to my work in the last 12-14 months or so. I think part of it has to do with the fact that abstract art in general is gaining more atten-tion these days. In November 2011, I took part in a large group show, “KONSTRUKTIV!”, which Gérard Goodrow curated for the gallery Beck & Eggeling new quarters in Düsseldorf. The show focussed on 16 young artists (among others Jan Albers, Frauke Dannert, Shannon Finley, Cathy Jardon, Kai Richter and Frank Thiel) working in the field of geometric abstraction, juxtaposed with as many older artists from the classical mod-ern and post-war era, such as Josef Albers, Heinz Mack, Ger-hard Richter and Victor Vasarely. One of my large-format pho-tographs hung together with a group of small works on paper by Laszlo Moholy-Nagy. It was a fascinating visual experience for me as well, seeing how the idea of geometric abstraction has progressed over the last hundred years without losing any of its original power. And it was amazing to see the affinities between some of the great masters of the modern age and young contemporary artists. It was quite a challenge for all of us. Soon after, I was chosen by a jury of experts to be included in the “Rising” project, which features the works of 100 young artists from around the world. Here as well, it's amazing to see how many young artists are working in the field of ab-straction, be it in painting, sculpture, photography or draw-ing.

ARP2008

MK Abstract photography is rare, isn't it? We still tend to associate this medium with documentation or at least narration. There always seems to be some kind of story to be told. Your works, on the other hand, are abstract in the truest sense of the word, since they always originate in reality, but break this down to create something completely different. Most of your works are based on architecture, whereby, if I understand cor-rectly, it's not architecture as such that interests you, but rather the forms, colours and compositions you find within this. Is this the reason why you rarely make reference to the archi-tects or the specific buildings in your titles?

TG That's right. I have always been fascinated by architecture, but for my work, nondescript, at first glance boring or even ugly buildings are just as interesting as those designed by top architects such as Norman Foster, Richard Meier, Peter Zumthor or Oscar Niemeyer. One of my favourite motifs is based on a colourful but anonymous apartment building in Miami. I don't know who designed it, but that's not important. The artist's view, my own personal way of seeing, is my most im-portant instrument for unveiling structures that I find in the surfaces, i.e. forms and rhythms or repetitions of elements of the façade. I focus so much on particular details that the rest of the building is more or less unimportant for me. That's why the titles of my works often reveal what I per-ceived when I saw the building for the very first time, for example “Twisted”. “Tumbling” or “Curves”.

KOLUMBA II2008

MK You didn't attend an art academy and came relatively late to photography. In fact, you have another career in a completely different field. How do you juggle both careers?

TG I don't see photography as a second career - it's more like a calling. My “other life”, as I like to call it, revolves around consulting and marketing strategies. My clients are among the global players on the DAX 30.

MK In marketing and advertising, everything is retouched to make it look “perfect”. And your pictures often look as though they have been digitally manipulated and colour-enhanced. In many cases, it's hard to believe that they haven't been “photo-shopped”. What are your tricks?

TG The trick is that there is no trick. What you see is what I shot. For my own art, I completely and utterly reject all the fancy tools used in marketing, especially post-production digital reotuching to create an “ideal” image. My creative tools are all used during the actual act of shooting the photo on site. Cropping, aperture and shutter speed are the main creative instruments I use to distort or abstract the image. Nothing happens afterwards in the lab or on the computer. It sounds easy, and it actually is! It's truly amazing when you think about all the things you can do with light!

MK But don't these two worlds – career and calling – get in the way of each other some times? How do you find the balance?

TG There's no conflict at all. In fact, they complement each other. On the one hand, I guess I kind of need the pressure and the stress. This helps me to be creative and develop new ideas. And on the other hand, my career enables numerous art projects since it allows me, for example, to travel to other continents, where I find inspiration and new motifs. And, at the end of the day, the fact that I have another source of income means that my art can be free of financial stress, since I earn my money elsewhere. The art thus remains finan-cially independent, which is a great luxury for any artist.

ATOMIUM2009

BRASIL I2010

CURVES I2010

MK Let's get back to the art world. Your works have a certain affinity to the so-called Helsinki School. Were these artists an influence or role model for you?

TG: Sure, of course! But in retrospect, since I only discov-ered them for myself later. It was like finding friends who speak the same language. Last spring, during the Gallery Week-end in Berlin, I met Timothy Persons, the founder of the Hel-sinki School, at an exhibition opening. We understood each other immediately. There is, of course, a certain overlapping of thoughts and ideas between my art and the art of the Hel-sinki School, but I must say that my own visual language, with my own Tobias Grewe nuances, is very important to me. One important difference is that my work is 99% unplanned. It comes from a gut feeling I have when I confront a specific situation. This determines whether I unpack my equipment or not when I suddenly discover a motif. This authenticity and intuition is extremely important to me and is an essential part of my work.

MK I recall a story you told one time about driving to Brussels to re-shoot a motif you thought you lost. It didn't work out, but in the process you discovered something quite different and exciting...

TG Exactly! Luckily I found the original data file for the work I thought I lost. But I drove to Brussels to shoot the image again. The plan didn't work though, since the combina-tion of weather, the time of day, the season and the intensity of the light made it impossible to recreate the image in the same way. It made me realise for myself how important the authenticity of the precise moment really is. It's not some-thing you can simply recreate or even simulate. Anyway, disap-pointed that I couldn't redo the image, I drove off and headed back home. On the way, I drove past the back entrance to an amusement park. I drove past, but saw out of the corner of my eye a complex tangle of colourful lines. What was it? I made a full break and drove back in reverse and finally shot the picture from within the car with the motor running. It was a bunch of colourful water slides – twisting and turning around each other – an amazing complexity of lines, forms and colours. The feeling of utter joy and satisfaction I experience in such moments of intuitive discovery and “getting the shot” is inde-scribable!

HONGKONG ISLAND III2010

TWISTED2010

MK The way you describe it, it's as though the works create themselves, so to speak, as though the motifs were just waiting for you to reveal them. It reminds me of Picasso's famous statement: “I don't search, I find”. Nevertheless, you have your own style, which you have carefully developed over the last few years. You even have a kind of trademark style. For a while, you made only white pictures, which are very closely related to one another. They almost look like drawings. And now, since about a year, colour is appearing more and more in your works. Overexposure is taking a back seat. Is this the beginning of a new series, a new Tobias Grewe?

TG Not really. Colour has always been an important theme in my works and is actually at the core of my “White Light” series, i.e. taking colour away. And many works with colour emerged parallel to the white works. I think it would be too self-re-strictive to limit myself dogmatically to overexposure - or colour for that matter. In any event, right now, colour seems to be appearing more and more in my works, but that doesn't mean that the “White Light” series is complete or passé. And in the new colour works, some are slightly overexposed to make the colour somewhat softer or to bring out certain nuances in tone. Complete overexposure means that, in many cases, no colour information remains in the image file, which works in some cases, but certainly not all. It really depends on the motif. The motif determines how much light I need to bring in to get a “picture” out of it, which I see in that very moment. In Hong Kong, for example, I shot a detail of a building by Norman Foster. Overexposure would have only made the image diffuse or “milky”. As a result, I focused my attention more on cropping, perspective and the subtle reflections of the cloudy sky in the mirror-like façade to achieve the level of abstraction I was going for.

SPINDLE2010

COLOR FIELDS #12011

COLOR FIELDS #12011

MK And what's next? Where will your motifs take you now?

TG Since the summer I have been fascinated by the possibility of transforming three-dimensional architectural structures into fields of pure, two-dimensional colour. The end results are in many ways similar to the abstract colourfield painting that was popular among especially American artists such as Barnett Newman, Robert Motherwell or Mark Rothko during the 1940s and '50s. My new works from this series are thus charac-terized more than anything else by large fields of flat, solid colour spread across the surface of the photograph, resulting in an extremely flat picture plane. The composition is no longer determined by perspective angles and the dynamics of lines, but rather by an overall sense of pure, almost medita-tive space. Colour is no longer merely a means to an end, but rather becomes the subject of the photo in itself.

For an exhibition planned for this May in the project space Raum Oberkassel in Düsseldorf, I want to take the possibili-ties of photography one step further. Based on the colour-fields series, I plan to bring the two-dimensional “interpre-tation” of the three-dimensional starting point of my images back into play. It's kind of like the children's game of Chi-nese whispers, whereby an original statement is altered each time it is passed onto the next player. In my case, the monu-mental, coloured concrete ventilation stacks of an underground car park are transformed into flat, glossy coloured surfaces that are reminiscent of abstract painting, which in turn are brought back into the third-dimension, whereby the large spa-tial object that results has little to do with the original ventilation stacks. It's all about testing borders to see what photography can do or become. I was always fascinated by the transformational powers of photography, but these new works – both the “Colourfields” and the “Chinese Whispers” - have so much power that it truly baffles me! I can't wait to see how the audience reacts!

TOBIAS GREWE (b. 1975 in Arnsberg/West-falen) is represented by Beck & Eggeling new quarters in Düsseldorf and Donopoulos International Fine Art in Thessaloniki. His next solo exhibitions take place in

May 2012 at Raum Oberkassel in Düsseldorf and Donopoulos International Fine Art in Thessaloniki. His work can also be seen in the group show “Alles nur Fassade? Architektur als Abstraktion” in March/April 2012 at Beck & Eggeling new quar-ters in Düsseldorf. Photo: Michael Güth

MARCEL KRENZ is a Cologne-based, free-lance author on contemporary art and architecture and has written for numerous institutions and publications in Germany and abroad, including Wallpaper*, Frame, Blueprint, Architektur & Wohnen, ArtRe-view, Stylepark and Flash Art.

COLOR FIELDS #22011

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