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Competitive advantage

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  • tutor2u

    Author:

    Mark Tottman

  • tutor2u

    Opening thought

    Fashion fades, style is eternal

    Yves St Laurent

  • tutor2u

    Strategy Toolkit Contents

    Introduction

    Thinking strategically

    Strategic analysis of SuperGroups business

    Strategic options for SuperGroup

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    Introduction

    This presentation reviews the market for fashion retailing and takes you through the key corporate strategy issues facing SuperGroup PLC, a British clothing and fashion company based in Cheltenham, England

    It is important to remember that, in corporate strategy analysis, there are no right or wrong answers just problems that need addressing and choices that have to be made

    The views and opinions expressed in this document are just our opinion. Hopefully you will find them helpful. However, dont forget that you need to form your own views and be ready to explain and justify them in your Unit 4a examination paper

    Print this presentation out and add your own notes to it as you work through the case study or download it onto your laptop/smartphone/iPad and annotate it

    Above all remember that Unit 4a is about: Thinking strategically

    Thinking big picture

    Thinking synoptically i.e. recognising that strategy issues are not just about marketing or finance or production but about inter-related issues

    Note: The presentation is based upon the pre-released Evidence provided by Edexcel up to 2011. However, there is comment in the presentation which covers the changing fortunes of SuperGroup over the last 12 months (2011-12)

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    SuperGroup and this Toolkit

    Worked carefully through the case study like you should too Analysed the data, read between the lines and presented the key features Added some information to bring the case study up to date for 2012 Linked the analysis to the Edexcel specification for Unit 4a Identified what we believe are the key strategy issues raised by the case study Outlined the strategic options open to SuperGroup Evaluated the strategic decisions that could be made

    What We Have Done

    What We Have Not Done

    Question-spotted what we think the Unit 4a examiner might ask. Examiners have a habit of asking tricky questions. In any event, you need to answer the questions actually set, not

    the ones you want to be asked

    Repeated all the details of the case study (there is no value added in doing this and you need to read it too!)

    Repeated all your textbook, class, VLE and revision notes on corporate strategy (refer back to these as necessary)

    Provided lots of notes on corporate strategy concepts your textbook, VLE and class notes should cover those fine. You need to get thinking about fashion retailing!

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    How to Work Through This Presentation

    Step 1

    Read the SuperGroup case study

    carefully; study the words; look at all

    nine pieces of Evidence (A to I); form

    your initial views on the business positive and negative.

    Step 2 Read our advice on Thinking Strategically

    Step 3

    Go back to the case study and re-read it.

    Try to identify what you think are the key

    strategic issues.

    Step 4

    Step 5

    Read our sections on the Analysis of

    SuperGroups Business and our thoughts on the Strategic Options for

    SuperGroup

    Summarise the key points from this

    presentation in your own revision notes

    (or scribble all over it) so that you are

    fully prepared for the Unit 4a paper

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    Thinking Strategically

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    Thinking strategically means imagining YOU are sitting at

    the SuperGroup boardroom table in Cheltenham, England

    with Julian Dunkerton, the business founder and CEO

    As you sit at the head of the table looking out at all the people walking by,

    your role now is to navigate your way through the complex and intensely

    competitive world of global fashion retailing to ensure that these people

    are choosing to wear SuperGroup clothing ranges

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    Directors do not concern themselves with day-to-

    day operational details neither should you

    Are the same

    actions in the best

    interests of all the

    stakeholders?

    What external

    factors influence

    our business?

    How are we doing?

    Can we survive

    with our current

    strategy?

    What is our

    business mission?

    What are our goals

    and objectives?

    What strengths

    and weaknesses

    do we have?

    What resources do

    we need? How

    should we finance

    them?

    What are our

    competitors

    doing?

    How do we exploit

    the opportunities

    available?

    Julian Dunkerton is concerned with questions like

    Think about these questions as you work through the case study

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    Corporate Strategy involves taking decisions

    Decisions often need to be taken quickly

    Decisions involve risk but a business can never move forward unless it takes risks

    Information is never perfect, complete or always up-to-date

    The Unit 4a evidence needs to be considered in detail and data must be interpreted with a critical eye

    Think about the decisions that Julian Dunkerton needs to take. What information does he need?

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    Be careful with your SWOT Analysis dont believe management hype!

    Strengths these are ONLY factors where a business has a real competitive advantage. Just

    being good at something is NOT a strength if

    your competitors are good at it too! Most

    businesses have only a few strengths. Some

    dont have any.

    Weaknesses in reality, these are the things that really stop a business from succeeding. Most

    businesses have some fundamental

    weaknesses but management often ignore them (and rarely admit them). Your job is to

    tell it as you see it.

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    All businesses have problems but they are rarely as bad as they look

    Not every problem or issue described

    in the SuperGroup case study is really

    important. Dont get too bogged down by what look like numerous issues.

    Good management is about sorting

    things out

    Try to identify the really important

    issues, problems or challenges facing

    SuperGroup. These are the strategic

    challenges that the company must

    address

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    Strategic Analysis of

    SuperGroup

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    Fashion market overview

    The fashion market is a global industry with notoriously short product life cycles

    It generates over a trillion dollars per annum worldwide

    It is a highly fragmented market with numerous players, many of whom operate with global brands

    In Western territories, the market is largely saturated, with players competing for market share

    There are a number of emerging fashion markets which are growing opportunities for Western brands because these brands are seen as

    aspirational and status symbols

    Russia, China, India, Singapore, Brazil, South Africa and areas of the Middle East (especially UAE)

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    Fashion in context

    Fashion goes beyond simple clothing and accessories. It

    expresses identity

    creates wellbeing

    embraces creativity

    connects global communities

    There are different ways to segment the fashion market. Market segmentations can use price, age, lifestyle, gender, quality or

    geography as descriptors.

    It would be a good class exercise for you to do your own version of the fashion market segmentation in order to explore the possibilities

    On the next slide, we have chosen price and quality as our criteria

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    Fashion industry market segmentation:

    Multi-layer players have a range of products for

    different markets; others operate focus strategies Multi-layer

    players (e.g.)

    Single layer

    players (e.g.)

    Haute Couture

    Luxury

    Affordable

    Luxury

    Discounters/

    Off Price

    Mass Market

    Supermarkets

    High Price,

    High Quality

    Low Price,

    Low Quality

    Expensive and exclusive, custom made

    fashion/performance gear for the worlds wealthiest individuals/sports people

    Not custom made, but high quality and

    exclusive fashion for fairly wealthy

    people

    Aspirational consumers with some

    disposable income, but who cannot

    afford luxury brands at luxury prices

    Clothing that sacrifices an air of

    exclusivity for mass market appeal

    Clothes for cost conscious or low income

    consumers

    Out of season luxury brands for

    consumers who want (affordable) luxury,

    but are not fussed about current fashions

    Gucci

    Westwood

    Lauren

    Armani

    Nike

    Adidas

    Jack Wills

    Superdry

    Burberry

    Abercrombie

    Ubiqlo

    TK Maxx

    eBay

    Primark, M&S,

    H&M, Zara,

    BHS

    Walmart/Asda,

    Carrefour,

    Tesco

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    Superdrys market position

    It is quite difficult to place Superdry into a neat fashion category like many other High Street labels. To some extent, it spans our categories

    because it sells unisex basics, but with design ticks

    It is in the same space as Abercrombie and Fitch, Jack Wills, Gap, Uniqlo and AllSaints, but (probably) beats them all

    It also competes with brands like Burton, Dorothy Perkins, Miss Selfridge, Top Shop, Primark, Matalan and Officers Club

    Superdry sells (overtly) branded fashion to the mass market, to people who like clothes, but who do not care about fashion with a capital F.

    We could say that Superdry has taken over from FCUK, the last brand to capture public opinion in a sloganeering way

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    The basics of fashion retailing

    There are two core elements to fashion retailing:

    1. Design - identifying gaps in the market (about one year in advance)

    and designing clothes and accessories which will meet the future

    needs of fashion customers. Design decisions are often made a year

    in advance of actual retail sales and fashions might change in that

    time. There is a careful balance between being responsive to changes

    and to predicting/creating the next fashion trends

    2. Sales generating sales volumes by establishing the best routes to market (wholesale, retail, internet) at the right price

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    A brief history of SuperGroup PLC

    1985 Cult Clothing was established by Julian Dunkerton in Cheltenham

    1986 Cult Clothing stores expanded across the UK, mainly in university

    towns such as Oxford, Birmingham and Edinburgh

    2003 Dunkerton linked up with James Holder (creator of Bench brand) to

    form Superdry

    2004 First Superdry store opened in Covent Garden, London

    2006 SurfCo and 77Breed brands were added to the SuperGroup portfolio

    2010 SuperGroup floated on the London Stock Exchange with a share

    price of 5.00. The share price reached 18.99 in February 2011

    2011 acquisition of CNC Collections BVBA, which added 18 shops to the

    SuperGroup empire in France and Benelux

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    SuperGroup PLC Today

    In the UK there are 76 standalone Superdry and Cult retail clothing stores, plus 71 concessions where the products are sold

    Overseas there are 145 Superdry outlets (83 of which are franchised)

    Superdry is sold in 101 countries across 4 continents (Europe, Asia, Australia, Americas)

    A flagship London store has just been opened in Regent Street

    In the last 12 months SuperGroup has issued four profits warnings, the share price has tumbled to around 4.50, (10% below the launch price

    two years ago), and the store opening programme has been under

    scrutiny

    www.supergroup.co.uk

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    SuperGroup Business Model

    Retail Division

    62% of Group revenue in 2011

    with a retail margin of 26% (up 5% from 2010)

    Product Design Global Sourcing

    Distribution

    Retail Business Sales Wholesale Business Sales

    25 designers at

    Cheltenham HQ

    53 suppliers across Turkey,

    China, India & Peru

    Superdry & Cult

    own brand shops

    in UK and Ireland

    Retail

    concessions

    E-Commerce /

    internet Franchises /

    Licencees

    Independent

    retailers (some

    via agents)

    CNC BVBA

    Benelux

    Wholesale Division

    38% of Group revenue in 2011

    with a profit margin of 24% (up 3% from 2010)

    Customers

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    SuperGroups Vision and Values

    Vision

    To continue to be one of the defining global brands of our generation

    Values

    Premium Quality Accessible Pricing

    Pioneering Design Continuous Evolution

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    SuperGroups objectives are to continue to grow very fast, at home, internationally and online

    In the past 12 months alone, 20 new stores in the UK and 50 franchised overseas outlets have been opened

    Objectives

    UK Retail Roll Out

    To expand the UK retail estate by up to 150 new standalone stores (at a rate of 20 per annum) which will maximise profit and match the brand demographic

    To top up the UK concessions estate (although this has limited growth potential)

    European Owned Retail Roll Out

    To establish an estate of European owned retail outlets to complement those acquired with the CNC agreement in Benelux

    International Franchises

    To expand the international franchise empire by at least 50 stores per annum

    Accelerate Internet/E-Commerce roll out

    To increase the share of group revenue via internet sales from 8% to 20%

    Weve got enormous growth ahead of us. Nationally weve got growth and internationally weve got exponential growth (Julian Dunkerton)

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    Key Strategy Question:

    What are SuperGroups Strengths, Weaknesses

    and Issues in its four main

    business activities?

    Marketing

    Human

    Resources

    Operations

    Finance

    SuperGroups ability to compete successfully with other fashion retailers and to deliver its vision and objectives will

    be affected by the companys strengths and weaknesses

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    MARKETING:

    Product making everyday apparel into vintage classics

    SuperGroup is a distinctive branded UK based fashion retailer offering a range of quality clothing and accessories. It offers premium mens and womens products in the UK and internationally, targeted at discerning customers who

    want stylish clothing that is uniquely designed and well made. The product is

    unisex, ubiquitous yet anonymous

    sporty, yet not technical

    designed, but not designer

    The product range includes:

    T-shirts & polo shirts

    shirts & rugby shirts

    jeans

    joggers

    sweaters

    hoodies

    jackets

    footwear

    accessories, bags, sunglasses, jewellery, backpacks/rucksacks

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    MARKETING:

    SuperGroups branding is unique in the fashion sector

    SuperGroup has three main brands:

    77Breed (for the skate market)

    SurfCo California (for the surf market)

    Superdry (targeted at young people/young at heart)

    Superdrys branding

    combines vintage American fabrics with pseudo Japanese text (but the company is based in the quintessentially English Regency town of Cheltenham!)

    Kyokudo kanso shinasai: the literal Japanese translation is please dry it or yourself extremely

    has a preppy appeal with elements of street-wear design

    portrays bright colours and contemporary designs

    Superdrys appeal is

    sporty we like the idea of snowboarding, but do not actually go

    faux vintage we want to look second hand, but we do not want to rifle through second hand clothes rails / charity shops

    international we are global people, whether or not we travel the world

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    MARKETING:

    SuperGroups brands are a source of strength

    The Superdry brand has gained in recognition and popularity in the UK and overseas and is at the heart of the business.

    80% of sales come from the Superdry brand, which is therefore the cash cow of the business.

    The company has developed multiple logos whereas most fashion competitors have just one logo.

    Therefore if competitors become successful, more and more people will be wearing the same logo which is ultimately not what most customers really want therefore a self defeating strategy

    With SuperGroup, 20 people could all be in a pub wearing the same brand, but all with different logos on them a better strategy

    The Cult stores represent a good way of testing new brands and concepts (undercover) without jeopardising the Superdry brand

    BUT

    Some critics argue that the brand is becoming tired, too heavily logoed and in need of a re-vamp

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    MARKETING:

    Prices are kept relatively low...

    Superdry seek to price their clothes as low as they can in order to make a sensible

    profit.

    This implies elements of a price penetration strategy with cost plus pricing

    They sell high quality products at earnest, affordable prices

    e.g. a similar preppy aesthetic to Abercrombie and Fitch and to Jack Wills, but Superdry

    products retail for 10-15% cheaper

    Dunkerton believes that competitors raise prices to see what they can get away with

    which harms their brand loyalty

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    MARKETING:

    ... Promotion is kept relatively low cost

    Superdry has no advertisements or celebrity endorsements. It relies on

    word of mouth and celebrity generated

    publicity

    A Brad leather jacket worn by David Beckham in 2007 sold 70,000 units over

    the next three years, becoming a best

    seller for the company

    Superdry clothes are also worn by Zach Efron, Helena Christensen, Jude Law,

    Pippa Middleton, Kristen Stewart, Justin

    Bieber, Kate Winslett and Ben Stiller, all

    of which provides free publicity and

    promotion for the brand

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    MARKETING:

    Place SuperGroup operates a multi channel approach to market

    SuperGroups main channel to market is its large (and growing) retail empire of 103 Superdry and Cult UK and European standalone stores. This includes the

    flagship store in Londons Regent Street, a four storey shop (formerly Austin Reed)

    In addition to its owned retail activities, SuperGroup has other physical channels

    71 UK retail concessions, (such as Harrods, House of Fraser and Selfridges) and 50 International concessions

    130 global franchised and licensed independent stores, including the flagship store in New Yorks Times Square

    There is also a growing virtual presence in the market with two fully transactional websites boasting over 300,000 customers, plus three local

    language sites in France Germany and Belgium

    www.superdry.com

    www.cult.co.uk

    They use internet presence to create awareness in territories ahead of new store openings

    In total, Superdry is sold in 101 countries across four continents

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    MARKETING:

    Place ... but there are strengths and weaknesses in this strategy...

    65% of group revenue comes from outside the UK (especially Europe, USA and Australia) a figure which has shifted fast since the early days when the company used to be a UK centric organisation

    Therefore SuperGroup has diversified its income risk and is no longer heavily dependent upon fluctuations in the UK economy

    BUT

    With the increase in internet business (which is targeted to continue), customers have been able to buy T-shirts, polo shirts, dresses etc on

    eBay/internet channels at vastly discounted prices against the traditional

    retail and concessions channels

    Therefore causing considerable channel conflict, especially within the wholesale business and amongst independent retailers

    Fewer concessions are taking Superdry stock because they are being squeezed by the rising number of Superdry high street stores

    Does Superdry need a new brand or range specifically for independents?

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    OPERATIONS and PRODUCTION:

    Service delivery upgrades are being made, but the supply

    chain is challenged to cope with rapid business growth

    The recent appointment of Sean Park from Asda as Head of Procurement is helping to reduce costs

    The UK distribution centre has been upgraded to add 77,000 sq feet (= 200,000 sq feet in total), thereby allowing the internet business to

    deliver next day despatch to the UK market

    A shortage of stock and sizes across UK stores during the implementation of an IT systems upgrade in its warehouse management

    system at the Barnwood warehouse (Gloucestershire) cost 8.8M in lost

    sales in 2011

    New system did not interface correctly with retail systems and inhibited stock replenishment capability

    Some stores were receiving sizes S and XL, but no M or L

    Even so, it has increased capacity and they managed to ship 61,000 items in one day up 16,000 on the previous year

    A move towards larger factories is in place, but the benefits of economies of scale are not yet evident

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    OPERATIONS and PRODUCTION:

    SuperGroup uses a global supply chain

    Products are designed in-house and manufactured in a number of overseas factories known for their expertise in

    particular product categories

    Current sourcing volumes are as follows (% of total from each country)

    Turkey 40%

    China 30%

    India 20%

    Peru and other countries 10%

    They are looking to increase the volume from India because of its manufacturing sophistication and quality

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    OPERATIONS and PRODUCTION:

    Improvements in the supply chain are showing benefits, but

    it is challenging to put the infrastructure in place

    Current strategies:

    They are using better quality fabrics than two years ago (e.g. chinos)

    The number of suppliers worldwide has been increased from 33 (in 2010) to 53 (in 2012) because a broader supplier base:

    reduces risk and

    helps to meet business growth expectations and

    gives better costs deals dual sourcing increases price competition between suppliers and

    Improves quality (e.g.Superweight Nordic style knitwear is now being made in four different factories rather than one. Diversification of production

    across categories gives lots of different textures and hand feels)

    But

    More sources of production increases the pressure on SuperGroup to be able to monitor suppliers to comply with labour, employment and

    other laws (in order to meet their CSR requirements and avoid adverse

    publicity which has been rife in this industry in the past)

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    HUMAN RESOURCES:

    SuperGroup prides itself on its entrepreneurial spirit

    The current corporate headcount is 1,899 people

    The Board of Directors is made up of the Chairman, Peter Bamford, and four other non-executive directors. In addition, there are five executive directors:

    Julian Dunkerton (Chief Executive Officer)

    James Holder (Brand and Design Director)

    Theo Karpathios (Wholesale and International Chief Executive)

    Susanne Given (Chief Operating Officer)

    Shaun Wills (Chief Financial Officer)

    The design team has recently increased to 25 designers under James Holders inspirational leadership

    Significant recent appointments have also been made in IT, Property, Finance, Merchandising and Logistics

    The main HR challenge for the future is whether the organisation can become more sophisticated (more like a big company) without losing its entrepreneurial flair...

    What weve found is that if you want growth and you bring in entrepreneurs who have developed those skills, you have a series of entrepreneur spirits

    within the company. We have an entrepreneurial culture and I think we will

    maintain that (Julian Dunkerton)

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    FINANCE:

    The historical income statements show a

    business that has grown fast

    Ms 2012

    (preliminary)

    2011 2010 2009

    Turnover 314 238 139 76

    Cost of Sales 135 105 66 40

    Gross Profit 179 133 73 36

    Overheads and

    Other

    138 86 50 28

    Net Profit 51 47 23 8

    2012

    (preliminary)

    2011 2010 2009

    Gross Profit Margin 57% 56% 53% 47%

    Net Profit Margin 16% 20% 17% 11%

    Despite significant adverse press speculation and four profit warnings this year, the preliminary results for 2012 show that SuperGroup has

    survived a difficult year relatively unscathed and with a substantial

    increase (32%) in its top line revenue

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    FINANCE:

    Despite some problems in the last 12 months, the

    business is financially sound

    Despite issuing four profit warnings in 12 months, profitability has risen, albeit by less than SuperGroup would have liked

    They have ridden out the storm created by an accounting error, based on a simple arithmetical mistake which cost the wholesale business about 2.5M

    They have survived a misjudgement in forecasting demand for goods which was worth about 2m in adjustments to wholesale sales (lost

    sales)

    The share price is recovering from a low of 2.70 in June 2012

    Business growth has been largely internally funded

    There is a sound balance sheet with low gearing and a substantially positive cash position

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    Balance Sheet Extract:

    Liquidity ratios - Evidence H

    M 2011 2010

    Stock 52.3 21.1

    Debtors 35.7 16.4

    Cash 32.2 29.5

    Total Current Assets 120.2 67.0

    Borrowings 0 1.4

    Creditors 42.7 22.6

    Total Current Liabilities 42.7 24.0

    Current ratio 2.8 2.8

    Quick ratio (Acid test) 1.6 1.9

    This extract shows a healthy set of figures from the balance sheet whereby SuperGroup has sufficient liquidity to meet its

    short term financial commitments

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    Summary of SuperGroups Strengths and Weaknesses

    Strengths Weaknesses

    Marketing Relatively low prices for their

    market segment

    Innovative designs

    Strong brands

    No advertising

    Channel conflict with wholesalers and

    independents

    Operations Multiple international locations /

    presence

    IT and stock control issues

    Ability to cope with rapid growth

    requirements

    Human

    Resources

    Entrepreneurial culture

    Dunkerton and Holder

    Ability to manage transition from small to large company (processes, organisation/structures, sophistication)

    Finance Rapid profit growth over three years

    Healthy short term liquidity position

    Accounting errors

    Depressed share price on the back of

    four recent profits warnings

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    There are several external

    influences outside SuperGroups control which create

    opportunities and threats

    PEST (LE)

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    Political (and Legal) Influences

    SuperGroup is a target for large and small scale counterfeit operations

    It needs to protect its intellectual property, designs and copyright (and ensure that it does not inadvertently infringe upon competitor designs/copyrights)

    In January 2011 SuperGroup was pursuing about 100 legal actions for copyright infringement

    e.g. vs Superfly, Silverdry over counterfeit goods

    e.g. vs Primark over the Brad leather jacket worn by David Beckham

    e.g. Vs Arcadia Group (Burtons) over a trench coat

    Opportunities

    Developing brands/designs that can be patented worldwide, thereby gaining monopoly advantages for the company, which enable them to justify the prices attached to the brand

    Threats

    SuperGroup currently spends up to 1M pa protecting its designs plus

    There is the possibility of costly legal proceedings against copyright infringers which can happen at any time without warning

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    Economic Influences:

    Global Fashion Economics

    Global Economic Effects on the Market

    The top end of the market (haute couture) is relatively insulated from a global economic downturn because the super rich can still afford custom made designs

    from Westwood, Armani etc.

    During tough economic times, customers tend to switch from luxury branded products to cheaper brands/no brands and off price discounters to save money

    Therefore it is tough to be positioned in the middle of the market spectrum during an economic downturn

    Several High Street stores/retailers are suffering declining sales, lack of consumer interest and even some insolvencies

    Opportunities

    Expand into multiple countries to diversify economic risk (e.g. emerging markets)

    Expand the product range to appeal to multiple segments

    Strategic acquisition of competitors who are struggling

    Threats

    Being left with last seasons stock

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    Economic Influences:

    Global Currencies and Commodities

    SuperGroup is an international business and is vulnerable to unfavourable changes in currency exchanges

    It pays for and takes title to a large proportion of its goods

    It receives substantial revenue in foreign currency

    A key factor in SuperGroupss Cost of Sales is the price of cotton (a major component of clothing), which is determined on the global

    commodity markets

    The price of cotton has been rising, although it is expected to fall in the next few months

    Opportunities

    Take out forward exchange rate contracts to hedge risks

    Take out forward contracts on the future price of cotton

    Threats

    Global markets do not perform as predicted

    Cotton prices rise sharply

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    Social Influences

    The fashion market is notoriously fickle due to changing social trends

    Popular can very quickly become un-cool

    Fashion brands can very quickly become tired

    Teenagers are a key group of customers, but

    UK and European youth are struggling to find jobs and do not have very much disposable income

    Students are faced with rising tuition fees and therefore less disposable income

    There is heavy discounting from rival retailers

    Opportunities

    Move away from less a less heavily logoed look in the future as the young fashion market has begun to favour less overt brands

    Reduce lead times from product design to product delivery

    Threats

    Not having enough stock available if some product categories really take off or

    Being left with un-cool surplus stock

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    Technological Influences

    In the past few years, the fashion industry has been affected by new technologies which have increased efficiency and provided much needed data

    analysis and tracking. Instead of relying on people to analyze, project and

    improve, fashion brands now have the digital technologies to meet these needs

    in a much faster way

    Opportunities

    Customers could invest in a designer or a brand by pre-ordering the items, therefore the company allows the designers to produce to order, instead of

    pushing quantities that may not sell later. This minimizes the risk and allows

    informed planning of the produced quantities.

    The way we choose our clothes. 3D body scanners can allow people to try on clothes in virtual mirrors and on interactive screens, thereby enabling

    consumers to personalise their clothes virtually and order them online.

    Threats

    Fashion being acquired from small, virtual stores with hyper efficient logistics/supply chains. This could change the rules of the game for traditional

    fashion houses and those newer companies who are too slow to adapt

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    Environmental Influences

    From clothing manufacture to disposal and textile re-cycling, environmental influences are bound to be important in the future of the fashion market.

    Opportunities

    Improvements in manufacturing of the fabrics we wear for example

    without the use of harmful chemicals/dyes and toxic sprays

    using natural fibres with biodegradability

    using new high-tech or nano-tech, low-impact fibres

    programmable clothing

    Better disposal strategies

    such that when clothes are finished, they are disassembled, composted, re-cycled, re-manufactured or re-used according to design

    New environmental products such as

    dedicated second hand (internet) libraries/swap shops where consumers can swap clothes (like eBay/freecycle)

    jackets/coats with solar panels which can power a mobile phone/iPad

    Threats

    Diminishing global supplies of cotton as the century progresses

    Losing the battle to convince customers that the company is environmentally friendly and sustainable

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    SWOT Analysis A Summary

    Strengths Weaknesses

    Threats Opportunities

    Strong Brands

    Innovative Designs

    Three Year Profit Growth

    Distribution Channel Conflict

    Ability for infrastructure to keep

    pace with top line sales growth

    Emerging markets / international

    Online/E-Commerce channels

    3D applications & personalisation

    Fashion trends changing very fast

    Gloomy global economic outlook

    Environmental sustainability

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    Strategic Analysis:

    Michael Porters 5 Forces Model: Fashion Industry

    Rivalry of Industry Competitors

    (Medium/High)

    Intense competition between brands

    Short product life cycles

    Saturated markets in many parts of the world

    But reasonably easy to exit the market

    Threats of Substitution (Medium)

    Growth of second hand markets (recycling) for fashion

    Internet based clothing library with opportunities for swap shop with other people

    Threat of New Entrants

    (Medium/High)

    Entry costs are quite low

    But it is expensive to build a brand

    Solar panels on jackets to power mobile phones?

    Companies who can compete on environmental sustainability

    Customer Power

    (Medium)

    Easy to switch brands

    Not much negotiation on price

    Customers can determine fashion

    trends

    Supplier Power (Low)

    Numerous, diluted suppliers

    Suppliers sell commodities

    (cotton/textiles)

    Easy for Retailers to switch suppliers

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    To what extent does Superdry

    achieve Corporate Social

    Responsibility?

    (Evidence G)

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    Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a big

    issue in the fashion industry...

    The global fashion industry generates over a trillion dollars a year worldwide and has an impact on many lives. What we wear and the

    ways in which clothes are made and sold can have hugely positive and

    negative impacts on our society and environment

    In the past, the fashion industry has been tainted by

    Factories exploiting workers (wages, conditions, health and safety)

    Generating throwaway fashion

    Wasting resources

    Encouraging unsustainable consumption

    Companies such as Primark, Nike and Gap have been in the press for CSR concerns

    As a clothing and footwear manufacturer, SuperGroup impacts upon the local and global environment and it will forever be in the spotlight, along

    with its competitors

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    SuperGroup has put a number of initiatives in

    place to achieve good CSR including...

    Use of newsletters, road shows and training programmes to communicate CSR practices to their workforce

    Telling all suppliers about the ethical and environmental conditions under which SuperGroup products should be produced

    Promoting fair and safe working conditions throughout the supply chain

    Joining the Ethical Trading Initiative, a ground breaking alliance of companies, trade unions and voluntary organisations committed to

    improving the lives of workers across the globe

    Retrofitting technologies in stores to reduce energy consumption

    Reducing carbon at their UK warehouse by 39%, thereby saving 47 tonnes of CO2 each year

    Setting up systems at distribution centres to recycle 100% of all packaging waste from inbound stock

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    Evaluate the importance of the

    new Superdry flagship store in

    Regent Street, London

    (Evidence I)

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    Having a strong presence in London is an important

    statement in the world of global fashion

    London has 26,000 stores housing 138 of the worlds top 250 retail brands with retail sales of 6.2billion euro per annum

    It is one of the worlds top five locations for retail sales along with Paris, New York, Tokyo and Milan

    With an area of 59,000 sq feet, the new four storey flagship store in Londons prestigious Regent Street (the former Austin Reed store) gives Superdry a strong presence and provides an international showcase

    The store is adjacent to many of its key rivals such as Hollister, Burberry, Abercrombie and Fitch, Zara, Mango and Uniqlo who all have

    stores nearby, thereby making Superdry an integral part of the major

    central London fashion set

    It is arguable that this is a cost of doing business and that a global fashion brand cannot really expect to operate without such a presence

    in London

    Superdry also has a flagship store in New Yorks Times Square

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    Is Superdry over-reliant on

    Dunkerton and Holder?

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    SuperGroup has the challenge of operating as a

    PLC without losing its entrepreneurial roots...

    Since the foundation of SuperGroup up to the present day, Dunkerton and Holder have been the prime movers

    and shakers in the business.

    They are entrepreneurs who have done very well and who have run the company in what Charles Handy might

    describe as a Power culture

    Since floating on the stock market in 2010, the Directors have recognised the need for the organisation to

    transition from a small company mentality to being a

    much bigger PLC probably more like a Role culture as described by Handy, where the organisation has clear

    structures, processes and hierarchies

    To achieve this and to spread the load, Dunkerton and Holder have added several new senior people to the team

    The big challenges for them and for SuperGroup are

    whether its people can cope with the huge growth expectations and

    how to enable the company to become more sophisticated without losing its entrepreneurial flair and roots

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    Has Superdry grown too fast and

    can it meet its growth targets?

    (Evidence A, B, D and E)

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    Rapid growth brings its opportunities and challenges...

    The brand has grown from very little ten years ago to a worldwide fashion brand in 2012 which receives regular (unpaid) celebrity endorsement

    In the same time span, the company has evolved from an entrepreneurial operation to a PLC listed on the London Stock Exchange

    There appear to be no signs that the company is pulling back from its growth path, therefore we could conclude that they think their growth is manageable

    and sustainable

    The strategic development model affords flexibility because it is a blend of organic and acquisition development, franchising and partnering with third parties

    It is no bad thing to own a growing retail estate (property empire)

    BUT

    There is some evidence that they may have grown outside their comfort zone

    Integrating people and systems has not been easy and they are yet to convince analysts that they have managed the transition from small entrepreneurial

    organisation to big company that needs systems, processes and organisational

    structure

    The current stock market price would suggest that they may have over stretched themselves. There has been considerable share price volatility in the last two years shareholders tend to prefer steady share price growth

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    To what extent is Superdry likely

    to achieve internet sales @ 20%

    of Group revenue?

    (Evidence C)

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    It is unclear from the evidence when such a target is

    expected to be achieved (SMART objectives?), but without

    doubt the online sector is increasing

    More and more people around the world are shopping online and

    There has been a consequent decline in high street retail sales

    although fashion stores have been one of the big survivers, along with banks, mobile phone shops, estate agents and fast food outlets

    Buying clothes is not a complex purchase (by comparison with, for example, buying a car or a house) and therefore lends itself to online sales

    SuperGroup already has two transactional websites which drive some sales

    Assuming that they can develop web retail technology (in various country languages), there is substantial scope for them to increase the proportion of

    sales via E-channels, for example

    use of 3D body scanners can allow people to try on clothes in virtual mirrors and on interactive screens, thereby enabling consumers to personalise their clothes virtually

    and order them online

    Allowing customers to pre-order items

    The success of online developments and the pace at which this channel will progress will depend upon SuperGroups ability to fulfil orders rapidly and accurately through their supply chain management systems

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    Key Strategy Issue:

    Analyse the options for category

    development in the Superdry

    range.

    (Evidence F)

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    Superdry has developed its range from 6 T shirt graphics

    in 2003 to 400+ T shirt graphics today, plus a suite of

    fashion accessories...

    Superdry has followed a classic product development strategy

    launching simple, uncomplicated, single line products at the start

    evolving to product line extensions, line filling and line stretching over a period of time

    The brand is now well established in the high street and within the fashion world. Assuming that they can

    develop a wider sourcing strategy and develop the

    supply chain network, there are several category

    options open to them, including a range of:

    premium fragrances, optics and beauty products

    underwear, undergarments and sleepwear

    headwear

    umbrellas

    watches

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    Health warning for SuperGroup

    There is a limited amount

    of evidence in the case

    study so it is difficult to

    develop a water-tight

    corporate strategy. But is

    it possible to evaluate

    some of the options

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    Strategic Options for

    SuperGroup

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    The work of Michael Porter: SuperGroups strategy needs to reflect its competitive advantage

    Resource advantage firm specific assets that the competition cannot easily acquire such as patents, trade marks, proprietary knowledge, installed customer base, reputation, brand identity

    Capability advantage skills and competencies, innovation, creativity and quality of processes

    Cost advantage productivity of labour/assets and buying power for raw materials

    Differentiation advantage ability to add value by offering (unique) product benefits

    SuperGroup has some patents

    and branding advantage

    SuperGroup enjoys the

    benefits of excellent design and

    creativity, led by James Holder

    SuperGroup has no discernible

    advantage in this area

    SuperGroup has no discernible

    advantage in this area

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    Porter identified three generic strategies against

    which SuperGroup can be evaluated

    Generic

    Strategy

    What does it mean? What is required?

    Cost

    Leadership

    Unit costs are lower than competitors

    because of economies of scale, good

    production processes and efficient

    resource allocation

    Up front investment in

    gaining market share

    followed by running a very

    tight ship

    Differentiation Winning profitable segments of the

    market. Unit costs may be higher, market

    share is less important, but customers are

    prepared to pay a premium for quality and

    individualised products

    Finding perceived product

    characteristics and

    uniqueness that add value

    Focus Avoidance of confrontation with

    competitors (cost leaders and

    differentiators) by developing niche

    positions with products for otherwise

    unsatisfied customers

    Finding markets that large

    companies cannot easily

    replicate (e.g. super fast

    delivery, personal service,

    hard-to-imitate products)

    Yes

    No

    Maybe

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    Low Cost Differentiated

    (product uniqueness)

    Competitive Advantage

    Competitive

    Scope

    Broad

    (market-wide)

    Narrow

    (market segment)

    Cost leadership

    strategy

    Focus strategy

    (low cost)

    Differentiation

    strategy

    Focus strategy

    (differentiation)

    Applying Porters Strategy Matrix to SuperGroup indicates that a Focus strategy is appropriate

    SuperGroup

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    Recent Strategy Initiatives at SuperGroup

    Good leaders reflect on their strengths and weaknesses, assimilate the opportunities and threats and respond with a strategy that not only

    protects their position, but also carves out new spaces.

    Recent strategic initiatives by SuperGroup include:

    Organic growth through

    rolling out new product ranges

    opening new retail stores and concessions outlets

    opening flagship stores

    licensing new franchise operations overseas

    making operational improvements

    Corporate integration growth through

    the acquisition of CNC BVBA Benelux, an example of horizontal integration

    Any future strategic choices need to be assessed within the context of SuperGroups ongoing plans

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    Assessing the Strategic Options available to

    SuperGroup

    Generic strategies - businesses have three strategic options:

    1. Retrenchment: this is not applicable to SuperGroup because they are in a growth phase of their development

    2. Stability: this may have applied to SuperGroup temporarily for the last six months during their blip, but it is not their current strategy

    3. Expansion: this is SuperGroups approach a programme of rapid, global growth

    Strategic tools

    There are several tools available to identify strategic options for growth These centre on the approach the business might take to its products and

    markets and whether any growth should be organic or by acquisition

    Evaluation

    The evaluation of strategic options should take into account SuperGroups Aims and objectives Physical, human and financial resources Management structure and skills Culture Key stakeholders and shareholders, their views and interests

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    The Ansoff Matrix can be used to help make

    decisions about products and markets

    Decisions about what products to sell, and in which markets, provide an important guide to the direction of growth

    Ansoff drew up a growth vector matrix that described how a combination of business activities in existing and new markets, together with existing

    and new products, can lead to growth

    The four strategies arising from the matrix are:

    Market penetration increasing market share

    Market development where a business seeks new markets (either new geographies or new customer segments) for its products and abilities

    Product development the launch of new products to existing markets

    Diversification when a business decides to offer new products in new markets

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    Ansoff Matrix:

    Products and Markets

    Existing Products New Products

    Exis

    tin

    g M

    ark

    ets

    N

    ew

    Mark

    ets

    Market

    Penetration

    Product

    Development

    Market

    Development Diversification

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    There are two choices to be made about how a

    business should invest in a growth strategy

    Organic Growth

    Growth by using the existing, internal

    resources of the business

    Advantages

    Disadvantages

    Makes best use of existing resources

    Consistent with the culture and management style of the business

    May lead to economies of scale

    Easier to control = less risk

    Often slow particularly if existing markets are low growth

    Doesnt create barriers to entry

    Spare resources (e.g. cash) may be wasted

    Can create a cautious approach

    Acquisitions

    Growth by buying other businesses or

    assets

    Advantages

    Disadvantages

    Can overcome barriers to entry

    Helps spread the risk (not all eggs in the same basket)

    Provides quick access to key business resources (e.g. brands)

    Easier to control = less risk

    Cost price usually too high

    Different cultures may clash

    Customers may be upset

    High failure rate (70% of acquisitions fail to achieve their

    objective)

    e.g. Open more SuperGroup retail stores e.g. buy another clothing retailer

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    Ansoffs Matrix can be applied to SuperGroup, giving the business a number of different strategic options

    Existing Products New Products

    Exis

    tin

    g M

    ark

    ets

    N

    ew

    Mark

    ets

    Market

    Penetration

    Product

    Development

    Market

    Development Diversification

    Expand organically by opening

    more retail outlets and franchises

    Expand overseas (Asia, Middle

    East, Brazil, South Africa)

    Develop new fashion categories,

    technologies and environmental

    products

    Develop mobile phone, tablet and

    technology retail business

    Expand by acquisition of a

    competitor

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    Which ever option is selected, decisions need to be taken

    about whether or not the growth markets are related

    Option

    Horizontal

    Integration

    (Related Markets)

    Description

    Grow activities that are competitive with and

    complementary to existing activities

    Vertical

    Integration

    (Related Markets)

    Business becomes its own supplier (backward integration)

    or distributor (forward integration)

    Advantages: Secure supply; take more profit from the

    value chain; create barriers to entry

    Disadvantages: More exposed to the same market; does

    not necessarily offer economies of scale

    Diversification

    (Unrelated

    Markets)

    Spread risk by operating in markets that are not directly

    competitive or complimentary

    Advantages: May obtain synergies (e.g. using same

    distribution channel)

    Disadvantages: Limited experience in separate markets

    increases risk of things going wrong; cultural differences

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    Strategic Option:

    SuperGroup could expand

    organically by opening more

    retail outlets and franchise

    stores

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    A Market Penetration Strategy:

    Organic Growth?

    This option is about increasing market share in its core markets

    SuperGroup would focus on:

    Opening up the potential for an additional 130-150 retail outlets in high quality locations in the

    UK

    Further unlocking the potential of the recent CNC BVBA acquisition in continental Europe, starting

    in France and Germany and then rolling into

    southern and eastern Europe

    Further development of the multi channel approach to target customers

    Progressing the franchise opportunity across its core markets with a further 50+ franchise outlets

    overseas

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    Strategic Option:

    SuperGroup could expand by

    the acquisition of a fashion

    retail competitor

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    A Market Penetration Strategy:

    Growth by Acquisition?

    This option is about generating immediate and significant growth in market share by acquiring a fashion retailer by way of horizontal integration, similar to the CNC BVBA acquisition in Benelux

    SuperGroup would need to

    Conduct appropriate market research to identify a suitable target company and market

    Raise the necessary funding in conjunction with shareholders and/or the banks

    Prepare a plan for corporate integration and the generation of synergies

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    Strategic Option:

    SuperGroup could develop

    new fashion categories,

    technologies and

    environmental products

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    A Product Development Strategy:

    Product category development, technologies

    and the environment?

    This option is about developing upon the current range of products that have been developed in response to changing fashion trends

    SuperGroup would need to

    Develop a wider sourcing strategy and develop its supply chain network

    Undertake market research, visits to trade fairs and product research

    Introduce new products with iconic Superdry characteristics e.g. Category development

    range of premium fragrances, optics and beauty products

    ranges of watches, umbrellas, headwear, underwear

    Technologies

    3D body scanners to allow customers to try on clothes in virtual mirrors and on interactive screens, thereby enabling consumers to personalise their clothes virtually and order them online

    pre-ordering items before they are fully designed

    Environmental

    range of sustainable clothes made from new high-tech, low-impact fibres, nano-tech fabrics and biodegradable clothing

    swap shop product (online and in store)

    solar panelled jackets/coats etc. for powering mobile phones

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    Strategic Option:

    SuperGroup could expand

    into new markets (Asia,

    Middle East, Brazil, South

    Africa)

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    A Market Development Strategy:

    Further develop the emerging markets

    This option involves replicating and extending the successful SuperGroup business model and Superdry brand into emerging markets

    including Russia, China, India, Singapore, Brazil and the Middle East,

    which are all seen as growth markets for Western fashion brands which

    are often viewed as a status symbol in these territories

    SuperGroup would need to:

    Conduct market research to understand the specific future requirements of these emerging markets

    Develop relationships, joint ventures and franchise agreements with local manufacturers, distributors and retailers in the selected countries

    Develop a marketing strategy for these markets (ethnocentric or polycentric?)

    Accelerating internet growth through developing multi country, local language websites and improving delivery performance

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    Strategic Option:

    SuperGroup could diversify

    into a mobile phone, tablet

    and technology retail

    business

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    A Diversification Strategy:

    A mobile phone business?

    This option involves diversifying to target customers who know SuperGroup as a High Street retailer and who trust the brand sufficiently

    to want to buy associated products in a retail environment

    SuperGroup would need to

    Research mobile phone and technology markets

    Put together deals with leading manufacturers (e.g. Nokia) and service providers (e.g. O2)

    Deploy their retail skills to sell phones and other technology products

    This option could be combined with the idea of developing clothing which contains solar panels for powering small scale technology items

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    Evaluating the Options Decision Methods

    Cost / benefit analysis

    Quantifying costs and benefits in monetary terms

    But it is hard to quantify intangibles such as the impact of strategy on culture

    Ranking and scoring

    Rank strategic options by scoring them against criteria (e.g. return on investment)

    Investment appraisal

    How to address the problem of risk

    All strategies involve uncertainty

    Return on investment: several methods

    Need to include sensitivity analysis (e.g. what are the potential effects if things go badly wrong?)

    It is important to remember that SuperGroup has a strong, ten year

    track record. The brand has flourished in a highly competitive market,

    it is seen by several as the darling of the UK fashion industry, and it

    has a history of making things work

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    Evaluating SuperGroups Strategic Options: The key tests

    The options can be assessed against three key criteria:

    Suitability: - does the chosen strategy:

    Build on strengths and/or solve weaknesses?

    Exploit opportunities and/or respond to potential threats?

    Satisfy the goals and objectives of the business?

    Fit the culture of the business?

    Acceptability:

    Depends on the views of the key stakeholders

    What level of risk does the business want to take?

    Feasibility:

    What resources are available to support the strategy? (e.g. finance, experience; management resources)

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    Strategic Option:

    Organic Growth

    Suitability

    Acceptability

    Feasibility

    Fits well with existing strategy and objective of store roll outs

    SuperGroup has considerable experience of this approach

    Good fit with the corporate growth objectives

    Enables SuperGroup to protect and develop its USP

    Low risk because this is core business more of the same

    Could be considered as an essential strategy

    Probably the most favourable of the five options

    Probably possible to finance this option using internal finance (as they have done up to now)

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    Strategic Option:

    Growth by Acquisition

    Suitability

    Acceptability

    Feasibility

    Fits with previous experience of growth by acquisition (e.g. CNC Benelux)

    Logical to expand through horizontal integration in this market

    Would require an integration strategy

    Would require significant capital to purchase the competitor

    Could work in South East Asia or another emerging market

    Shareholders should be supportive if the right opportunity arises

    Medium to high risk because acquisitions and the anticipated synergies are hard to deliver and we do not yet know how well the CNC acquisition has gone

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    Strategic Option:

    Category development, technology and

    environmental products

    Suitability

    Acceptability

    Feasibility

    Supports the corporate growth objective

    Builds upon SuperGroups current strengths at extending their product lines

    Would need to be certain that competitors did not have something better, but it may well become essential in this market in the future to adopt this strategy in

    order to survive

    Medium risk because this is new territory for SuperGroup

    SuperGroup can move into this product space

    Some more work required to set up the distribution and delivery networks and to integrate it within their core global business

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    Strategic Option:

    South East Asian/Emerging markets

    Suitability

    Acceptability

    Feasibility

    There may be gaps in the market in new territories, especially for Western products

    The strategy is a good fit with their growth objective

    SuperGroup is very experienced at going into new markets

    Low/Medium risk with the prospect of good returns for early success

    Financial investment is probably available for a phased expansion into new territories

    Requires significant up front work building joint ventures and local partnerships /franchises abroad

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    Strategic Option:

    Mobile Phone Business

    Suitability

    Acceptability

    Feasibility

    SuperGroup has no experience of working outside the fashion sector

    Could become a reasonable fit with their retailing skills, but the link is a bit tenuous

    Could be acceptable for directors in the longer term, but might mean taking their eye off the ball in the core fashion market

    Medium/high risk, unknown returns this is a 10-20 year play

    Need for staff training and customer enlightenment

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    Here are some things that you could do before the

    examinations in January and June 2013

    Primary Research

    If your school is within travelling distance of a Superdry store, go and visit and have a look at their clothes and accessories, their store layout, their point of sale material and their branding

    If possible, talk to one or two of the Superdry staff and ask them what it is like to work for SuperGroup. Try to gather some good points and some less good points and understand their views about the future of fashion and Superdrys place within the industry

    If you know anyone who has bought some Superdry merchandise, interview them about their goods and about the customer experience

    Why they bought Superdry rather than another brand?

    Sales and service experience?

    Are they a loyal customer?

    Secondary Research

    Keep up to date with market developments on a weekly basis by using your search engine to trawl the web for

    information and announcements about SuperGroup (the case study is written a long time in advance of your examination, so you can expect updated accounts, sales figures and developments at SuperGroup between now and June 2013)

    articles and views about developments in the fashion industry across the world

    Web 2.0 information (blogs, twitter, internet discussion forums, customer feedback sites etc.)

    rises and falls in the SuperGroup share price on the London Stock Exchange

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    Concluding thought

    Above all, remember that the most important thing you can take

    anywhere is not a Gucci bag or

    French-cut jeans; its an open mind

    Gail Rubin Bereny