sun valley mag 08

8/1/2019 Sun Valley Mag 08

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Mariel HemingwaA conversation abo

family, career and wellne

Summer stylinHot local picks fro

accessories to appa

The PhantomHill wolf pac

The predato

return to the val

One womans solo missio

to conquer the backcount

Rebeccas

RUSH

SUMMER 2008DISCOVER MOUNTAIN LIFE

MAPS LODGING DINING OUTFITTERS GALLERIES HOMES CALEND

ONE COPY FREE

GU

ID E


2/84


3/84


4/84

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10 to 100 carats total weight

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66 Gallery listings70 Dining guide75 Summer events calendar76 Lodging

77 Outfitters & guides,equipment rentals listings

78 Luxury Living listings80 Map

informationdirectory32

54

14

departments

44COVER STORYThe AccidentalAthleteKeeping pace with world

champion endurancemountainbikerRebecca Rusch.

by Jon Duval

48 Catching theSawtooth SwellBitchin breaks on Pettit Lake.

by Kitt Doucette

recreation

living36 The Serendipity

of SurpriseSometimes the biggest weddingsurprise is how many surprises

there are.by Betsy Andrews Etchart

40 A Wilder CallingBob Jonas has naturedo the giving.

by Scott Douglas

regulars12 Valley View:

Stop and Smellthe Spirea

Stroll through summersgarden tours.

54 Chefs Specialty:Rasberrys GazpachoThe twins clone soupfor summer.

Gallery Reflections

20Tracking a PhantomSince reintroduction began in

Idaho over a decade ago, thewild gray wolf has been aconstant controversy. With thePhantom Hill pack, the predatorreality hits the Wood River Valley.

by Jason D.B. Kauffman

32 A Conversation withMariel HemingwayThe actress and author discussesillness, wellness and growing upwith Sun Valleys most famous name.

by Dana DuGan

features

contents

51 Still Sorry Afterall These YearsGrumpys turnsthirty-something.

by Pat Murphy

dining

styleS U N V A L L E Y 56


7/84

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8/84

SUMMER 2008DISCOVER MOUNTAIN LIFE

GUIDE

The Sun Valley Guideis published spring,

summer, fall and winter by Express Pub-

lishing Inc., P.O. Box 1013, Ketchum, ID

83340. For advertising and content infor-

mation, call (208) 726-8060 or e-mail

[email protected]. Find us at

www.sunvalleyguide.com.

2008 Express Publishing Inc.

IDAHO PRESS CLUB AWARDS1st place General Excellence:

2004, 2005 and 20072nd place: 2006

Magazine Writing: Serious Feature1st & 2nd place: 2006, 2007

Magazine Writing: Light Feature1st & 2nd place: 2006, 2007

Magazine Photography1st & 2nd place, 2006

PUBLISHER

Pam Morris

EDITOR

Michael Ames

[email protected]

ART DIRECTOREvelyn Phillips

ART PRODUCTION MANAGER

Tony Barriatua

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Betsy Andrews Etchart,

Kitt Doucette, Scott Douglas,

Dana DuGan, Jon Duval,

Jason D.B. Kauffman, Pat Murphy

and Sabina Dana Plasse

EDITOR-AT-LARGE

Jennifer Tuohy

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Paulette Phlipot, Chris Pilaro

and David N. Seelig

COPY EDITORS

Greg Moore, Barbara Perkins

AD PRODUCTION & WEB SITE DESIGNER

Colin McCauley

BUSINESS MANAGER

Connie Johnson

MARKETING/SALES DIRECTOR

Ben Varner

ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES

Suzanne Mann, William Pattnosh

Cover: Rebecca Rusch prepares for aride at the First Light Mine out East Fork.

Photo by Nate Galpin

editorFROM THE

www.svguide.com/subs

to subscribe

It wasnt a full year agothat some of us, peopleof sound mind included,wondered whether thistown might go up in

flames. Ketchum wasin existential danger. Itstarted, as these thingsdo, with a strange andbeautiful sign: a singleplume of black smokerising from the west,from behind Baldy, nearwhat we would all soonlearn was Castle Rock.

The fire tested thiscommunity. We sat onporches and lawns that

Friday night in Augustand watched the smokeclimb, unaware thatwithin days neighborswould evacuate theirhomes, morning walkswould be health hazardsand we would all know,a bit more intimately,

how life feels in a war zone. I was in the valley for my good friendswedding in late July and had stuck around, looking for a way tomove back to Idaho. As we watched prop planes and helicoptersstrafe Adams Gulch, my friend and editor Jennifer Tuohy told me

she was expecting her first baby. She asked if I would like to returnand fill her working shoes for awhile. By this point, Wagon Dayswas cancelled. Streets and stores were empty and cash registers laystill. But the valley hadnt been licked. In fact, the community pulledtogether in good and unusual ways.

Building this summers Sun Valley Guide, we learned how thevalley absorbed last summers lessons. All of us, it seemed, learnedthe value of a test, and the theme of stalwart individuals overcominglifes trials took shape.

Rebecca Rusch, one of our local world-class athletes, is a naturalfor this issue. The accidental athlete has built a career on heightsof pain and depths of fatigue. Mariel Hemingway, burdened withthe looming double shadow of fame and tragedy, opens up in these

pages about facing down her demons. Even the wild gray wolf, nearextinct in Idaho just over a decade ago, has found a way back intothe game. From wedding mishaps to longboard surfing on mountainlakes, the Sun Valley Guide likes a good challenge. A year afterCastle Rock, we hope this issue engages readers with those timeswhen fire crosses the path and we are meant to push right through.

Sincerely,Michael Ames

PHOTOB

Y

CHRISPILARO


9/84

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contributorsJason D.B. Kauffman is the public

lands reporter for

the Idaho Mountain

Express. Both as a

news reporter and

a freelance maga-

zine writer, he has

tracked wolves with

biologists in Idahos

Frank Church-River

of No Return Wilder-

ness and Wyomings

Yellowstone and

Grand Teton national

parks. Kauffmans work has appeared in

Backpacker Magazine, TheIdaho Statesman,

Twin Falls Times-News and other regional

publications.

Dana DuGan is the Living editor and afeatures writer for

the Idaho Mountain

Express, as wellas a local music

promoter and gar-

dening enthusiast.

She regards catch-

ing a celebrity in a

moment of ease to

be the Tour dEiffel

of interviewing.

Betsy Andrews Etchart has coveredfood, home, out-

door adventure and

the arts for variousmagazines, but writ-

ing about her own

wedding proved her

biggest challenge to

date. She and her

husband are expect-

ing a baby boy in

July.

Jon Duval worked his way around the worldwhile making the

glorious ascent from

investment banker

to bike messenger.

He finally arrived

in Ketchum two

years ago and now

writes full time for

the Idaho Mountain

Express. When not

feeding his addic-

tion to planning and

zoning meetings,

Duval finds himself frequently humiliated on

Wood River roads and trails, whether on his

bike or skis.

ORVIS FILSO N BE RETTA FM ALLEN BARBOU R

680SUNVALLEYRD, KETCHUM I 208.726.7572 I WWW.KETCHUMONTHEFLY.COM

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~~~K

300 N. Main St. Ketchum, ID 83340 (next to the Pioneer Saloon)

The #1 site to view all Sun Valley area properties for sale.


12/8412 s u m m e r 2 0 0 8 s u n v a l l e y g u i d e

valley view stop

Text by Dana DuGan

Photos by David N. Seelig

he growing season in the WoodRiver Valley is succinct. It beginsamid the mid-June snowmelt and

ends abruptly, in clouds of color as theasters finally bloom, tomatoes ripen andthe autumn joy sedum turns brilliantrust red with Octobers first frost.

Gardeners here turn the challengeof long, dry days into semi-arid suc-cess. This years abundant snow is bothblessing and curse; extra melt water isa boon, but by the time north-facingbulbs emerge from beneath icy tombs,

the summer may be in full blaze. Givensuch capricious patterns, locals plantaccordingly and quickly.

Thankfully, for green-thumbed inspi-ration, there are garden tours. Localhomeowners swing open their gardengates twice this summer for sociableself-guided tours. Experts are often onhand with advice as are artists and musi-cians reveling in the botanic bounty.Carpooling, walking or pedaling to thepetals is always encouraged. Water andhats are a must. Think of it as a tea party

in sturdy shoes.

T

spireaand smell the


13/84w w w . s u n v a l l e y g u i d e . c o m 13

Tour the

floraSouth Valley: The Friends

of the Hailey Public Library

Garden Tour features select

gardens along Quigley

Road and in the Deerfield

subdivision in east Hailey

on Saturday, June 28, from

10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

North and mid-Valley: Tour

private gardens in East Fork

and Gimlet with the 13thannual Sawtooth Botanical

Garden Tour on Saturday,

July 12, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.


14/84

G A L L E R Y R E F L E C T I O N S

14


15/84

A timeless question asks:Does art reflect society or does society reflect art? Are a peoplescauses and celebrations manifest in their art, or does cultureevolve in response to its own creations? The question is a good oneprecisely because it cannot be easily answered.

The high Idaho desert invites distinction. Day and night might aswell be different seasons. Clean, dry air clears the system and bringsclarity. We are at once isolated and connected, far yet aware, and

the art we recruit reflects these ways. Cool apertures capture crisp,harsh realities: Gilman Contemporarys Nick Brandts Africanelephant stands in grand contrast with the animals plight. AtAnne Reed, photographer Mathias Kessler floods an iceberg withlight, freezing it in time even as countless others disappear amid achanging Arctic climate.

Sun Valley art galleries keep the conversation flowing. In thesephotographs and paintings, these sculptures and frescoes, acollective curiosity is fueled. We look and we discuss and arereminded to let our minds wander even as they engage.

15


16/84

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dolobor sumsan hendre mincilit wis aliquis ercilla

consequismod tie minim vel utem dit in ea facinci

nisi.

Or sis ecte moloborem adio conse tem ad et ute c

nis nullutpate faccummy nulluta tumsan hendiamc

exero et lore dolortie cons ent vercidui

AFRESHPERSPECTIVE

Previous Pages:

Nick Brandt, Elephant Drinking, Amboseli, 2007,

archival pigment ink print, Gilman Contemporary.

Mathias Kessler, Ilulissat H001, Greenland, 2007,

Digital C-Print, Anne Reed Gallery.

Heather Hansen, Infinity, fresco on panel, 13' 3" x 6' 9"

In a corner of Ketchums light-industrial zone, in a s tudio nestled

between construction companies and lumber yards, artist

Heather Hansen puts a thoroughly modern twist on the ancient

art form of fresco. Working in a converted warehouse, this Idaho

native weds the spirit of Renaissance Italy with the natural splen-

dor of her home state, creating abstract expressionist frescoes

that break the mold of an ancient medium.

Fresco is the technique of painting natural pigments on a

moist plaster surface, usually a wall or ceiling. The Vaticans Sis-

tine Chapel, with scenes by Michelangelo and Botticelli among

others, is the most famous example. For Hansen, inspiration

came with the experience of seeing Botticellis exquisite fresco

Venus and the Three Gracesat The Louvre in Paris.

Beyond a few lessons in plastering from a local contractor,

she is self-taught and feels free to break the mediums rigid rules.

16 s u m m e r 2 0 0 8 s u n v a l l e y g u i d e


17/84

Opposite Page: Iigo

Manglano-Ovalle, Robert,

Lydia and Kelly (from The

Garden of Delights), 1998,

C-print triptych, Sun Valley

Center for the Arts, cour-

tesy artist and Max Pro-

tetch Gallery, New York.

Top: Christopher Reilly,

Untitled, encaustic and

mixed media on muslin

panel, Gail Severn Gallery.

Right: Linda St. Clair,

White Knight, oil on can-

vas, Kneeland Gallery.

P H O T O

B Y

D A V I D

N

S E E L I G

One of her most successful rebellions has been to remove fresco from its natural habitat,

to take it off the wall. The resulting three-dimensional sculptures, suspended from steel

cables, are a natural progression for Hansen, who is passionate that her art be tactile.

When I saw that Botticelli, I just wanted to reach out and touch it; thats what really drew

me in.

Her finished pieces have little of the gloss or precision associated with the religious art

that popularized fresco in medieval Europe. In their place is a raw naturalism. I searched

for ways to bring nature into my work both in theme and material. Her studio is littered

with curios from the land, many of which find their way into her paintings, either as inspira-

tion or in physical form. From a burnt branch ravaged by the Castle Rock wildfire to a fox

skull unearthed on a hike with her son, Joji, Hansens creations may stem from one of the

worlds oldest art forms, but their roots are planted firmly in Idaho.

Jennifer Tuohy

Hansens work is on d isplay at The Open Room (Walnut Avenue Mall, Ketchum).Born in Burley, Idaho, Heather Hansen studied theater

design in Tokyo before discovering her fascination for

fresco while living in Europe.

w w w . s u n v a l l e y g u i d e . c o m 17


18/84

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PH

Twelve years after the gray wolf was reintroduced to theTwelve years after the gray wolf was reintroduced to theAmerican West, a small pack settled the northern Wood River Valley.American West, a small pack settled the northern Wood River Valley.Jason D.B. KauffmanJason D.B. Kauffman scouts the Phantom Hill wolf pack andscouts the Phantom Hill wolf pack andinvestigates one of the most controversial issues in the West.investigates one of the most controversial issues in the West.

A C K I N G AT R A C K I N G A



Biologists arent sure from whatdirection the pack of three blackwolves arrived.

They could have crossed near Galena Summit, a

low saddle along a major ridge dividing the upper

Big Wood River from the headwaters of the Salmon.

Or they may have descended from out of the Smoky

Mountains, a wildlife-rich expanse of remote sum-

mits and narrow timbered valleys west of Ketchum.

Its also possible they came from the east, cresting

the rugged Boulder Mountains before dropping from

11,000-foot peaks into the aspen- and evergreen-

dotted foothills.

Its all likely looking wolf country.

Heres what is known: In the first days of June

2007, biologists confirmed the presence of three

adult wolves near Phantom Hill northwest of Ket-

chum. The ragtag trio consisted of an aging male

with a graying muzzle, a female with a limp to her

right front leg and a yearling female.

For the first time since the federal governments

controversial gray wolf reintroduction began in the

Northern Rockies in 1995, and perhaps the first time

in close to a century, a pair of adult wolves was con-

firmed to be denning inside the Wood River Valley.

And within the packs den site were three tiny wolf

pups.Biologists named the newly discovered band of

wolves the Phantom Hill wolf pack.

Mary Roberson, detail from Unity II,

mixed media on canvas.



An all-black alpha female of the Phantom Hill wolf pack runs warily across a sage-

brush-dotted meadow in the upper Big Wood River valley northwest of Ketchum, Sep-

tember 2007. Repeated sightings of this limping female indicated she had an injured rig

front leg. According to wolf biologists, she gave birth to three pups in the western Bould

Mountains near Phantom Hill sometime in late April 2007.

A BRIEF

WOLF

HISTORY

Pre-Colum

bian

Government-sponsored predator

control programs combined with

declines in bison, elk and other

natural prey bring gray wolves

to near extinction in the lower

48 states.

As many as 380,000 gray

wolves inhabit North America

from the Canadian Arctic to

central Mexico.

Early

20thC

entury

Numerous unverified sightings suggest

individual gray wolves still roam the

remote central Idaho wilderness.

1973

Federal Endangered Species Act

signed into law by President Richard

M. Nixon. A few hundred confirmed

wolves remain in the lower 48 states

in extreme northeastern Minnesota

and on Isle Royale in northern Lake

Superior.

During the summer, the rolling foothillsof the Boulder and Smoky mountains aregrazed by thousands of sheep owned byseveral different ranchers. No matter wherethey migrated, the Phantom Hill wolves werenever far from herds of the lightly guardedlivestock, an enticing target for a small packwith three hungry mouths to feed.

It was no surprise when the pack gave into temptation and, according to federal Wild-life Services, killed at least nine sheep in thesummer of 2007. Following these incidents,federal authorities were prepared to destroythe Phantom Hill pack, but lacked the author-ity granted to the Idaho Department of Fishand Game, which opted for non-lethal tacticsto keep the pack at bay. The situation wascalmed for a time, but the fate of the localpack remains uncertain. State officials mayyet choose a lethal course of action shouldsheep kills resume.

The politically powerful ranching indus-try is at the center of the Northern Rockieswolf debate. Its outcries prior to the returnof the gray wolf are legendary. But to paintall ranchers with the same broad brush is tooverlook a growing minority that is learningto live with wolves. After losing 41 sheep tothe predators over a span of several years,Carey-based Lava Lake Land & Livestockrealized it would have to modify its grazingpractices. With up to 6,000 sheep running on730,000 acres of federal grazing allotmentseach summer, ignoring the regions growing

wolf population was no longer an option.Working with wildlife officials andDefenders of Wildlife, a nonprofit organiza-tion that aims to prevent conflicts betweenwolves and livestock, Lava Lake sought waysto keep its sheep safe. Sheepherders now carryradio telemetry equipment, basic hand-held

1944

Last documented wild gray

wolf killed in Wyoming

south of Yellowstone

National Park.

Mid

-20thCe

ntury

PHOTOB

YLYN

NE

STONE



1974

Gray wolves living

outside of Minne-

sota are listed as

endangered under

the federal Endan-

gered Species Act.

Minnesota wolves

listed as threatened.

1980

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS)

approves Northern Rocky Mountain

Wolf Recovery Plan, which envisions

the recovery of at least two healthy

Northern Rockies wolf populations.

Early

1980s

Gray wolves from Canada, including

the famed Magic Pack, begin natu-

rally recolonizing Glacier National

Park in northern Montana.

1987

Revised Northern Rocky Mountain Wolf

Recovery Plan approved by FWS. Plan

aims to remove the Northern Rocky

Mountain wolf from the Endangered

Species List by maintaining a minimum

of 10 breeding wolf pairs in each of

three recovery areascentral Idaho,

Yellowstone National Park and northern

Montanafor a minimum of three suc-

cessive years.

1994

Federal govern-

ment releases final

environmental impact

statement authorizing

gray wolf reintroduc-

tion into Yellowstone

National Park and

central Idaho.

R

receivers that pick up signals from individualradio-collared wolves. Last summer, herd-ers detected wolves less than a quarter milefrom sheep bands. Lava Lake has brought onadditional Great Pyrenees guard dogs andhas begun arming herders with single-barrelshotguns loaded with non-lethal crackershells or rubber bullets to drive wolves away.

At dusk, they herd their sheep into electrifiednight pens. The half-acre corrals borrowfrom a successful centuries-old Mongolianand Tibetan practice. And last summer, LavaLake President Mike Stevens redirected a

band bound toward Phantom Hill to lessproblematic areas. Economic realities limitStevens ability to keep his herds constantly onthe move, but so far, the efforts have worked.Lava Lake has not lost a single animal towolves since 2005.

anchers Katie Breckenridge and RobStruthers own the 1,800-acre B-Bar-B Ranch,whose irrigated pastures, crops and dry graz-ing lands lie south of U.S. Highway 20 nextto the small agricultural town of Picabo. Thecouple has bred and trained American Quar-ter Horses for more than 30 years.

But when unknown groups of wolvescrossed into their property twice last winter,the couple felt helpless to protect the 100 headof horses, organically raised Angus beef cattleand lambs that are their livelihood.

Although they declined to be interviewedfor this story for fear of further polarizing thewolf issue, Katie and Rob were sufficientlystirred up by the incident to express theiranxiety in regional newspapers. In lettersto the editor, they said their trials began inFebruary when three wolves were spotted 30yards from their stallion pasture and geldingand mare pens. Seemingly more curious thandeliberate, the wolves left without harass-ing their horses. Things didnt turn out so

In a world of chaos andIn a world of chaos anddisconnection, I can onlydisconnection, I can onlyhope that I will still hearhope that I will still hearthe howl of a pack ofthe howl of a pack ofwolves when I go hunting.wolves when I go hunting.

Gary TicknerKetchum bowhunter



smoothly a week later. In a hay field acrossfrom their outdoor horse arena, two wolves

boldly ran a small herd of horses throughdeep snow in broad daylight. The wolvesshow no fear of anything, they wrote. Afterrunning the horses into nearby fences, thewolves headed north.

Unlike many Western ranchers who grazepublic lands, Katie and Rob are strictly pri-

vate-land ranchers. While Idaho law allowsranchers to kill aggressive wolves in defenseof their livestock, they are concerned withthe unknown toll these encounters haveon their prized animals. Horses harassed

by wolves may develop long-term psycho-logical damage that future riders must dealwith. The couple, whose animals may losevalue with each incident, complain that wolfadvocates dont comprehend the impact ontheir livelihood.

Based on the report from B-Bar-B, Fishand Game officer Rob Morris was certain

the couple was dealing with an unknowngroup of wolves. While no den has been con-firmed in the area, wolves have been spottedin the Bellevue Triangle in recent years. In2007, a Picabo rancher killed a 90-poundfemale wolf after it attacked his livestock.

Morris believes the wolves that harassedthe B-Bar-B horses may have been drawnto the Picabo area by a herd of 100 elk thatwintered near Queens Crown, a prominentgrass-covered knoll east of town. That is thefirst time Ive seen elk there. Morris said thewolves would be better off if they followedtheir natural prey back into the high countryas winter turned to spring. Im hoping thosewolves are following the elk.

Bumper stickers on localBumper stickers on localroads that proclaim Save 100roads that proclaim Save 100elk, kill a wolf and Wolves:elk, kill a wolf and Wolves:government sponsoredgovernment sponsoredterrorists, suggest we haventterrorists, suggest we haventcome to terms with thecome to terms with thepresence of these creatures.presence of these creatures.

1996

First wolf pups born in Idaho.

A total of three known wolf

packs exist in the state.

December

1998

Idahos wolf population

estimated at 115.

Sept

ember

2001

The FWS documents 30 pairs of

wolves in Idaho, Montana and

Wyoming, triggering a three-year

countdown to delisting.

December

2003


estimated at 345.

June

2007

For the first time since reintroduc-

tion, biologists confirm a denning

pair of adult wolves in the Wood

River Valley.

Summer20

07

Janu

ary199

5

After an absence of

more than 50 years,

the first of 66 gray

wolves trapped in

Canada between

1995 and 1996

are transported to

Central Idaho and

Yellowstone National

Park for release.

Phantom Hill wolf pack

suspected in the deaths of

12 sheep on federal lands

northwest of Ketchum.

Members of the Stanley-area Basin Butte wolf packchase a pair of alerted cow

elk along a high-alpine slope in April 2007.

PH

OTOB

Y

LYNNE

STONE

PHOTOB

Y

JAS

ON

D.B.KAUFFMAN



uzanne Stone, Northern Rockiesrepresentative of Defenders of Wild-life, works with Lava Lake and otherranchers throughout the IntermountainWest and has witnessed the challengesthey face. In private meetings with her,local ranchers have shown a willing-

ness to explore new ways of living withwolves. Their words and actions reflecta realization that wolves are here tostay. Theyre becoming more tolerantof wolves, she said.

When gray wolves were reintroducedby the federal government in 1995, wolfalarmists were a dominant voice in theregion. Stone thinks ranchers chang-ing attitudes reflect the realization thatwolves are not having as devastatingan impact on their livelihoods as earlywarnings predicted. Like modern wolf

biologists, todays ranchers are learningas they go. None of the current genera-tion has actually lived in a landscape

December

2007


estimated at 732.

Febr

uary-M

arch

2008

Wolves spotted harassing

horses on the B-Bar-B

Ranch in the Bellevue

Triangle near Picabo.

March

28,2

008

Gray wolves in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, east-

ern Washington, eastern Oregon and northern

Utah removed from the federal Endangered Spe-

cies List. Management of wolves handed over to

the six state wildlife agencies. More than 1,500

wolves are estimated to be living in the Northern

Rockies region. Under 80,000 gray wolves are

estimated to be in all of North America.

STheir trialsTheir trialsbegan whenbegan whenthree wolvesthree wolveswere spottedwere spotted30 yards from30 yards fromtheir stalliontheir stallionpasture...pasture...

*Information provided by the Idaho Department of Fish and Game and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services

A hand-painted sign nailed to a corner fencepost near Kevin and

Jennifer Swigerts Croy Canyon home west of Hailey pleads with

passersby to spare the couples pet coyote, Happy.

The wolvesThe wolvesshow no fearshow no fearof anything.of anything.Katie Breckenridge and

Rob StruthersPicabo ranchers

PHOTOB

Y

MICHAELAMES

Continued on page 27



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Mid

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Riv

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r

TRACKINGTRACKINGTHE WOLVESTHE WOLVES

The Phantom Hill wolves are not the only pack residing within

a few days jaunt of the Wood River Valley. Idaho wolf packs

home ranges extend between 250 and 400 square miles.

Range size is limited by encroachment from neighboring

packs, and surrounding the Phantom Hill wolves are the Sol-

dier Mountain, Galena, Pass Creek and Hyndman packs.

Fish and Game biologists believe the Phantom Hill range

extends west and east of the Big Wood River into the Boulder

and Smoky mountains and from Ketchum northwest to Galena

Summit. While portions of this range are certainly remote, the

pack does not enjoy the security of wolves living in larger pro-

tected areas like Wyomings Yellowstone National Park. For

all of the glacier-carved basins and isolated mountain valleys

that exist in their range, the Phantom Hill pack is never more

than eight miles from the nearest road. Considering that biolo-

gists have seen southern Idaho wolves travel more than 20

miles over rough terrain in a single day, it becomes clear why

the predators are so intertwined with the lives and livelihoods

of the valleys human inhabitants.

Where

the

wolves

roam

Since the return of the controversial

predator, federal and state wildlife

biologists have relied on air- and

ground-based trackers to pinpoint

the locations of the states growing

gray wolf population. To determine

wolf activity, researchers collected

information from a variety of sources

including aerial sightings, signals

from individual radio collared wolves,

and public reports confirmed by

agency biologists and other inciden-tal observations. The result of the

massive yearlong effort confirmed

that in 2007, Idaho had at least 732

wolves spread out among 83 resident

wolf packs.

*Map based on information provided

by the Idaho Department of Fish and

Game; Nez Perce tribe; Montana

Department of Fish, Wildlife and

Parks; U.S. Fish and Wildlife Ser-

vices; and the National Park Service



n

R

i ve

r

heavily populated with wolves. Fearsexpressed were largely founded on folk-lore. Its the wolf teaching them morethan anything that they can live withwolves, Stone said.

Wolves are restructuring centuries-old ways of doing business in the West.Simple animal husbandry practices,

such as removing sheep carcasses fromthe range, help ensure wolves dont geta taste for mutton. During the spring,when wolves are protecting their pups,theyre highly territorial, Stone said.Ranchers have learned that at this timeof year, guard dogs can actually drawwolves out if they encroach too closelyon a den site.

The tireless wolf advocate is opti-mistic that time is on the wolves side.One only has to look to Minnesota,which never lost its wolves and today

has more than 3,000. There, wolvesare treated like any other predator inthe woods. She believes that as longas wolves are allowed to survive, itsonly a matter of time before people inthe Northern Rockies view them in asimilar way. The first generation is themost hostile, the most afraid. The nextgeneration has actually experienced liv-ing with wolves, she said.

Since last summer, talk of retiringhigh-conflict grazing allotments northof Ketchum has increased. While noth-

ing has been committed to publicly,local wolf advocates claim at least onesheep rancher has expressed inter-est in receiving payment to retire hisnorth valley grazing rights. The ideais not without merit. Similar buyoutshave occurred in other high-conflictareas around the West. Since 2002,the National Wildlife Federation hasworked with federal land managersand ranchers to permanently retire 23active grazing allotments surroundingYellowstone National Park.

Continued on page 28

A chorus of wolf howls echoed fromA chorus of wolf howls echoed fromthe nearby hills. Pretty soon thethe nearby hills. Pretty soon thewolves were howling all around us.wolves were howling all around us.Gary Tickner

Ketchum bowhunter



hile bowhunting elk west of Ketchum nearCastle Rock several autumns ago, local residentGary Tickner and a friend had a dramatic wolfencounter. An experienced elk caller, Tickner washunkered down cow-calling when a herd of elk

began pouring through a saddle on a nearby ridge.The duo soon discovered they werent the onlyhunters eyeing the elk. A chorus of wolf howls

echoed from the nearby hills. Pretty soon thewolves were howling all around us. Nostrils tothe wind and ears perked, the herd sensed danger.Seconds later, they scattered. The hunters watchedin awe as the herd ran away in unison. Tickner sus-pects the wolves were from an unknown pack.

Tickner doesnt believe wolves are decimatingIdahos elk herds, as many hunters claim. One pos-sible explanation for Idahos so-called missing elkis that theyve simply become more challenging topursue. Statewide, Idahos elk numbered 107,600in 2007, about 95 percent of Fish and Gamesobjective. The agencys own wolf management

plan says that conflicts between wolves and elkand other ungulates in the region covering the

Wood River Valley and the Lemhi and Lost Rivermountains are low.

In the past decade, Tickner has witnessed aprofound change in the behavior of local elk. Notonly do the large ungulates occupy different habi-tats, theyve also become less vocal. He believeselk have wised up, realizing their calls attract

wolves. More than once, a curious elk has snuckup on Tickners hiding spot while hes calling. Inthe past, a bull elk responding to a hunters callwould come crashing through the brush like arunaway freight train, all the while releasing avolley of high-pitched bugles. Now you mighthear a little twig snap. They want to see whattheyre coming to.

Tickner welcomes these changes. He feelstodays elk are a wilder and more challengingquarry, and thats good. He refuses to blamewolves for unsuccessful hunts, even though hespends more than 20 days afield with a tradi-

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I doubt a weekI doubt a weekor 10 days goes byor 10 days goes bywhen I dont get awhen I dont get awolf report.wolf report.Lee Garwood

Conservation officerIdaho Departmentof Fish and Game



tional bow and arrow each year.I always remember that its thejourney, not the destination. Thedyed-in-the-wool hunter born to anorthern California logging fam-ily feels a responsibility to defendwolves and the wild places theyoccupy. In a world of chaos anddisconnection, I can only hopethat I will still hear the howl

of a pack of wolves when I gohunting.Most hunters do not share Tick-

ners passionate feelings towardwolves. Theirs is a passion of anentirely different sort. If the wolfdelisting stands, hunters in Idaho,Montana and Wyoming will headto the hills this fall with wolf tagsin hand. Little more than a decadeafter wolves reintroduction, hunt-ers will pursue them in our own

backyard. How Idahoans respondremains to be seen.

omething curious happenedafter Wood River Valley residentslearned wolves were living in theirmidst: Suddenly, it seemed every-one had a wolf story to tell. Manytold of single black wolves roamingthe hills north of Ketchum. Otherstold of a black wolf with a limp or atrio of wolves crossing the highwayin the early morning hours. Sometales turned out to be false; someeyewitnesses had actually spottedthe wolfs smaller cousins the coy-ote or, even, the fox.

Local Fish and Game officerLee Garwood was suspicious ofalleged sightings in the past, butnot anymore. The veteran conser-vation officers job has changedsince the Phantom Hill wolveswere discovered. I doubt a weekor 10 days goes by when I dontget a wolf report. This summer,Garwood will investigate reportsthat suggest an unknown packresides in the mountains southwestof Ketchum. Mostly roadless, theareas extensive stands of timber,open sagebrush hillsides and clearstreams are prime habitat for pred-ators and prey alike.

At the far western end of CroyCanyon near Hailey, Jennifer andKevin Swigert believe they live withthe reality of this unknown pack.

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hen we first glimpsed Mariel Hemingway,in the 1979 movie Manhattan, she was just a

kid with impossibly long legs, a waif-like voiceand guileless blue eyes. She played WoodyAllens teenage girlfrienda red flag to hisfuture proclivities perhaps. But it was the 70s,who cared? Mariel was radiantthe cameraloved her. It still does, but her maturity canshock those who remember her as a teenagetomboy sitting in bed with Allen eating Chi-nese take-out.

Mariel has moved on andgrown up. She is now a mother oftwo teenagers, a serious practitio-ner of yoga, a sought-after actress,

lecturer and, like her father andlegendary grandfather, an author.

A third-generation Ketchum-ite, Mariel is the daughter of JackHemingway and Byra LouisePuck Whitlock, a Boise-bredbeauty Jack met in Sun Valley.

I met Mariel at a Ketchum tea house. Shesjust a regular gal, straightforward, fun andgossipy. I waited for an attitude that nevercame. Instead, her most marked characteristicis shyness.

My mother married a pilot, who was shot

down in World War II, Mariel said, settlinginto a wicker chair in the shade. After hisdeath, she moved back to Idaho. She wantedto be a stewardess, but was too tall at five-footnine, so she worked at Sun Valley Lodge as asoda jerk. My father was a bellhop.

Mariel told the story in stride, deliveringit matter-of-factly, though later she concededsome of the oddities of growing up as aHemingway in Sun Valley.

My father pursued her for five years. Hewooed her. They married in Paris in the late

a conversation with

the actress and author discusses family,

illness and the joys and terrors of growing up

in the shadow of Ketchums most famous name.

ByDana DuGan.

Photos byDavid N. Seelig.

1940s, she said, pausing before delivering thekicker: Julia Child was their maid of honor.

Mariel never knew her famous grandfather.Ernest Hemingway shot himself in Ketchumon July 2, 1961. Four months later, on Novem-ber 22, Mariel, the youngest of Puck and

Jacks three daughters, was born in Mill Valley,California. The second-generation Hemingwayssoon returned to Idaho.

We moved here when I was four. We livedin town the first year. When we moved north of

town, my father could have boughtthe whole of the valley up north for$20,000.

I went to preschool in Sun Val-

ley and then to Ketchum Elementary.Then they built a new one and namedit Ernest Hemingway Elementary. Itwas a pain in the ass. Kids thought Iowned the school. They teased me,she said, before mock crying. Imseven years old! Leave me alone!

Colorful memories stand out from a youthspent with neighborhood friends on the formerWarm Springs Golf Course. Mariel can stillpicture real estate agent Sherry Daechs earlyfashion statements on the tennis courts: Shealways had different-colored frilly pants, she

said with a laugh. My father taught me todrive at eleven, so he wouldnt have to drive meto town; most of the time I rode my bike every-where. I was raised like an only child. Muffet(Joan) was 11 years older, and Margaux wasseven years older. She (Margaux) was a kick-assskier on the mountainvery social. She went toNew York City, and the next time we saw hershe was on the cover ofPeople, then Vogue. Itwas very overwhelming; it was all very nuts.

What began as an idyllic and adventuroushome life for the tomboy became increasingly

I didnt want to

go crazy like my

sisters or shootmyself. I didnt

want to become

like my family.

Mariel

HemingwayW



difficult. Her mother was a daringcook with a flair for unusual dishesthat still inform Mariels love of food.But there was an unhappiness seepinginto the family.

My mothers first husband wasprince charming in her mind, Marielsaid. She never got over (his death). Itwas a generation of people who didnttalk. There was a lot of drinking. After

a while, we started eating in front of theTV.Children who end up caretaking

their parents and acting as a peacemakeroften lose a part of their childhood. Inthat light, its easy to understand whysome grow up to become controlling ordevelop addictive personalities. Marielgrew up, in her words, panicked.

Things didnt improve when herfather joined forces with other com-munity leaders to start Sams School

(the precursor to todays CommunitySchool). It was the beginning of life inthe spotlight for the young girl.

Everybody knew everything abouteveryone. It was torturous. I was des-perately shy, and I really wanted toact, but it was my secret. I was calledMerts and Myrtle. I was long, skinny,insecureand I wanted my mother.

No one realized how sick she wasthen. She got cancer when I was 11. Iended up taking care of her. I couldntconcentrate (at school). I was madly inlove with my mother. It was hell.

Acting became Mariels escape fromreality. When I made Manhattan,Woody Allen treated me like I was aninteresting person. I moved to NewYork. I wanted my parents to tell menot to go, but they didnt.

One of Allens most witty and beau-tiful films, Manhattan is about a writertorn between two women, one an intel-

lectual (Diane Keaton), the other anearnest 17-year-old high school student(Mariel). She knocked peoples socksoff with her portrayal and garnered anAcademy Award nomination for bestsupporting actress.

Manhattan was the movie thatsaved me. I went into survival mode. Iloved, loved it and had no idea what itmeant.

After maturing into her next film,Personal Best, Mariel moved to NewYork full time and found work as amodel before love drew her into therestaurant world.

I met Stephen (Crisman) at HardRock Caf. I said to my friend, Imgoing to marry him. I married himeight months later. Its been 23 years.

Crisman, now a documentary film-maker, was a hip, young restaurateurin the 1980s. Together, the couple ran

a few hot cafs named Sam, her nick-name at the time. New York life was afar cry from grilling fish with the familynorth of Ketchum.

Those were the restaurant years,she said. It was kind of cool. I did thefood and dcor. Bad fashion time, shesaid with a laugh. We thought we werehaving fun but no one was spiritual. Itwas all about me, me, me.

After a time living in L.A., whereMariel focused on her acting career, thefamily moved back to Ketchum in theearly 1990s. She opened the Sacred CowYoga Studio, and her daughters becamethe second generation of Hemingwaysto attend the school named for theircelebrated great-grandfather.

Around the same time, Marielsoldest sister Joan, known as Muffet,started showing signs of mental illnessand was moved to Twin Falls, where shecontinues to live with a caretaker.



I love her so desperately, but I dontknow how to be there for her, Marielsaid. She was my idolbeautiful andintelligent. But Im scared. Its a strug-gle. I fear for her.

In the mid-1990s, though she was liv-ing mostly in Ketchum where her daugh-ters were in school, Mariel moved intoa period of television mini-series work,including Civil War and Central Park

West, the latter of which she says wasthe most painful experience she had inthe business. The show was a completefailure, and blame for its demise wasplaced squarely on Mariels shoulders.

Through it all, yoga sustained her.I first practiced yoga up here (in SunValley) with Richard Odom. Yoga hadstarted to change me. It was enablingme to look at myself and slow down. Ididnt want to go crazy like my sistersor shoot myself. I didnt want to becomelike my family. When Margaux died [ofsuicide in 1996], I thought Oh shit, Ihave to carry the torch.

Mariel worked hard to keep herselfmentally and physically healthy, butlife had more to throw in her path. In1999, while working on her first book, amemoir/self-help project called FindingMy Balance, her husband received hisfirst diagnosis of melanoma.

The second time he got sick (in2004), he wanted my help. Marieladvised her husband to look both insideand out. We started looking at his life:home, food, exercise and silence. Cris-mans cancer went into remission andMariel took the lessons they learned asthe genesis for her second book: MarielHemingways Healthy Living From theInside Out: Every Womans Guide toReal Beauty, Renewed Energy and aRadiant Life, published in 2007. Thebook details a lifestyle that is centeredand spiritual, but homey.

In Mariels work as a lecturer, sheexpounds upon the ideas in her book,including the importance of self-real-ization. Everybody has a road mapinto their personal health, but you haveto ask questions to get there. I want toenable people to realize that they havea healthy, happy person inside them.

Mariel has had plenty of her owndemons to contend with throughoutthe years. But through her determina-tion not to pass on to her children whatshe calls the extremism Id inheritedfrom my familythe running-of-the-bulls approach to life encoded deeplyin the Hemingway DNA, Mariel hasdiscovered the better path. sVg

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living

hen Miles proposed alittle over a year ago, hetold me, The wedding

can be whatever you want. Surelyyou have ideas.

Actually, I hadnt given it muchthought since the 92 Albert-

ville Olympics, which I watchedbetween fittings for a gown mymother was sewing for my planned

July nuptials. A month later, Ishocked my family, my friends andmyself by calling the whole thingoff. Mom stowed the gown on acloset shelf, and 18 months laterI discovered my ex-fianc was inanother relationship, this time withChad. Talk about surprises. I wassurprised when 15 years passed ina soulmate vacuum. And just when

Id embraced a life shaped not bybouquets and babies but books, Iwas surprised again when Milesappeared.

My idea of the perfect weddingwas simple: informal yet elegant,an intimate afternoon party, out-doors in the peak of autumn whenKetchum slows down, the work-force isnt so harried and aspenleaves gild the blue sky. I wouldplan it myself, and there would beno surprises.

Surprises are a

part of life, and a little

drama lurks behind

even the smoothest-look-

ing I Do. For Betsy

Andrews Etchart,

the biggest surprise

was how many

surprises there were.

Photos by Kirsten Shultz.

serendipity

surprise

of

the

W



Amanda Farley Seaward, whose SunValley company, Absolute Weddings,has been overcoming the unexpected forsix years, said her job was to organizeand plan for everything, so that whenthe unexpected comes up, were in abetter position to tackle it.

When, she said; not if.When your fianc has four siblings

and nine nieces and nephews, a guest

list under 40 becomes impossible.When youre engaged in December toa man who lives two states away andyoud like to start your life there assoon as possible, an autumn weddingbecomes impractical. And when Milesnixed October for March, an outdoorwedding became out of the question.

Outside, I said firmly, and wesettled on a date in early June, awarethat raindropsor snowflakesmightfall alongside our confetti.

I envisioned a dramatic but homeyvenue. Friends in Elkhorn offered theirlawn with its panoramic view of theBoulders. Another suggested her lushBellevue spread. But to my surprise,my normally easygoing mother wasadamant: We should tie the knot inher backyard. I pictured my parentsmid-valley acre, woodsy and wild, theway my father liked it; a bit too wildfor me.

Every day my mother called withlandscaping ideas. My sister Susan,whose petite Hailey garden was a hor-ticultural wonder, offered to help. Shereminded me that the lilac and spi-rea would explode with blossoms thefirst week of June. Susan promised tosupervise strategic plantings and leadmajor pruning efforts on Dads feralfoliage. Miles grooved on the naturalvibe of my parents place, and the ideaof celebrating in a setting that harboredyears of warm memories grew on me. Ipictured tables topped with my antiquequilts and vintage jars brimming withwild roses from my sisters garden.My 3-year-old twin niece and nephew,serving as flower girl and boy, wouldfeel at home, raising the odds of good

We settled on a date

in early June, awarethat raindropsor

snowflakesmight fall

alongside our confetti.

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behavior. When the universeoryour familytosses a good thingyour way, grab it. Chez Andrewsit would be.

Choosing an officiant was thenext unforeseen challenge. Wemet and passed on some, whileothers, shockingly, passed on us.Then, in the Yellow Pages, underAbundant Life Ministry, we found

Tito Rivera. We liked his faith, hispositive energy and the fact thathe would squeeze in our ceremonyon the day hed organized theWood River Valleys largest soc-cer tournament. Through a thickPuerto Rican accent, he gamelypracticed pronouncing the s onMiles name.

Not a week went by that Iwasnt surprised by the generos-ity of others. When I tried to hiremy friend the former professionalpastry chef, she agreed to assemblemy vision of chocolate, berries andflowersbut insisted it would beher gift. For the rehearsal dinner, acommercial fisherman pal offeredto fly in fresh king salmon from theOregon coast.

Choosing the reception menuseemed blissfully straightforward.We hired my friend Lauren Carrto work her culinary wonders,and I would make pumpkin ravi-olis to accompany her spread. Iknew that the grooms half-Basqueclan would approve of my choiceof local Lava Lake lamb for theentre. With so few guests, allof whom we knew so well, oneentre would suffice. But whenyou discover over Easter dinnerthat your fiancs mother does noteat lamb, you invite the salmon tothe wedding. There would be twoentres.

As for my gown, Mom andI raided her closet, and I foundthat no bad memories clung tothe gossamer silk she had sewnyears before. It still fit perfectly. Ifound a costumer in Seattle whofashioned a corset to top it off.

Invitations? I only needed 21,and I wanted them to reflect mylove of nature and the arts. Afterperusing sample books the size ofottomans, I decided to make themmyself. I modeled the six-pieceinvite after medieval illuminatedmanuscriptsthe exquisite hand-scripted tomes that monks toiled

over before Gutenberg invented theprinting press. I arranged my lightbox and watercolors and gold-leaf-ing set and spray-mount adhesiveand 326 pieces of paper on thekitchen counter.

When someone invents a print-ing press, use it. After a weekilluminating, my mood darkened.I was only half finished, the ravi-

oli dough was still languishing inthe freezer and I was tiredall thetime. I wondered if.

I was pregnant.When trying to conceive, dont be

surprised to find yourself pregnant,even if you have the dinosaur eggsof a 39-year-old. Soon enough, mybreasts began an alarming explora-tion of territories beyond the corsetedging. As my figure bloomed, sodid my parents spirea and lilac,followed promptly by a late-Mayfrost. Buds from East Fork to Hai-ley browned and withered. Therewent my perfect backdrop.

Less than three weeks before thewedding, Seawards wordsYoucant plan for everythingtookon new meaning. When you are inyour first trimester, you dont planaround the 20 percent chance ofwhat medical professionals call aspontaneous abortion. With 20days to go and 40 days worth ofdetails to attend to, at almost sevenweeks pregnant, I miscarried. Mymother tightened the corset laces.But I was exhaustedand sad.

In the days that followed, Ibecame confusedwas the wed-ding still on? Oh, yesit was thepregnancy that wasnt. The factthat a wedding is mostly just a bigparty struck with full force. So didthe import of what I was about todo. Inviting so much joy into my lifealso opened the dark door to loss.Welcome to the rest of your life.

The bridesmaids arrived, andas they threw themselves into theirtasks, they helped me regain mymomentum. They ran errands,compiled a dance track with songsfrom Grease, taught me how towaltz and weed-whacked while mysister fought hard with our fatherfor pruning rights. The ravioliscould wait another day.

With four days to go, eight ofus girls retreated to Stanley for 24hours of pampering at a local spa.Were there more productive things

My breasts began an

alarming exploration

of territories beyond

the corset edging.



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we could have been doing? You bet.How about your wild rice and sugar

snap pea salad instead of raviolis? Iasked Lauren. You got it, she said.

On the way home from the spa, mysister and I rode Fisher Creekmy lastsingletrack as a single woman. Layeredin wool and windbreakers, we woundthrough the forest until, at the top, wefound ourselves in the previous sum-mers burn. Snow lay upon the black-ened trunks like a salve, and thousandsof lupine poked purple heads above thecharred ground. We wheeled throughthe cold, silent landscape, grateful forthe reminder of beauty and rebirth.

The rehearsal: The threatening stormstalled in the Sawtooths, and down val-ley we baked in the sun. Someone sug-gested we have the ceremony under thetent. Someone else suggested we face adifferent direction. Miles inadvertentlyinsulted the bridesmaids, who werealmost swallowed by an out-of-controllilac bush. The twins cried and cried. Iwanted to join them.

Thats what dress rehearsals arefor, my mother assured me, recitingthe old Broadway adage that when thedress rehearsal reeks, opening night willshine. If true, our marriage was set to bea classic with a run longer than Cats.

June 9, 2007 dawned cool and calmand clear. Roses, lavender and scabiosaburst from the perennial garden; pop-pies nodded from the berms; clematis

climbed from a planter amidst spring-green sweet potato leaves.

The bouquets arrived, perfect exceptfor the grooms boutonniere, whichwasnt a cornflower, but a purple free-sia. There was no time to worry; guestswere assembling. Then the twins weresprinkling the aisle with rose petals andgrinning shyly. And then I was countingunder my breath so my steps would bein sync with those of my father, whohadnt said a word about the pile of lilacbranches behind the garage. And Padre

Tito was pronouncing Milescompletewith the sand I husband and wife.

When I look through photographs,I regret that Miles boutonniere is notcornflower blue. But its purple blos-soms will always remind me of the sur-prise of lupine peeking from the ashesand snow of Fisher Creek.

Betsy has since joined her husband inArizona. They are expecting a babyboy in July.



Each summer,

Bob Jonas

guides a select

group of young

leaders into the

Idaho wilderness.

Scott Douglas

treks along to

find the source of

Jonas Wild Gift.

or a man whose life is neatly dicedinto 20-year increments, Bob Jonas isunpredictable, his whereabouts suspect.

For 35 years, he referred to the Wood River

Valley as his base camp. He bounced betweenAlaska, Yellowstone and the Sawtooths, oftenat times of year when no one else would go tothese places. The Brooks Range in April wasminus 40 Fahrenheit. It snowed sideways onthe Middle Fork of the Salmon in March. Aself-proclaimed hobo, his grail the essence ofNorth American wilderness, Jonas managed toremain not quite homeless in Sun Valley. Heraised a daughter here, built a business and,later, an organization.

At 66, Jonas is limber and strong. His head ispitched forward at the neck, his blue-gray eyes

wilder

F

a

warm and keen. Eight years ago he sold SunValley Trekking to fully devote himself to hisoutdoor leadership program.

Wild Gift, he said, is not Outward

Bound. The application process is rigorous,and recipients are leaders of proven merit.Leaders, Jonas said, can exact the mostimpact. Wild Gifts purpose is to foster what

Jonas terms wildlands preservation andsustainable human communities. To thoseends, applicants need solid proposals for ayearlong project. Upon acceptance, the annualclass of five is briefed for a wilderness trek:three weeks in August covering ground inIdaho wildernesses such as the Sawtooths,the White Clouds and the Frank (the FrankChurch River of No Return Wilderness). After

calling



TOP: Bob Jonas on Alaskas White River, in the

Wrangell Mountains, on a month-long solo trek

in 1986. BOTTOM: Jonas recharges in his home

office, March 2008.

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the trip, recipients part ways and headhome, funds in hand, to work on theirprojects. A year later, they return toIdaho to summarize their work.

On the Middle Fork of the SalmonRiver in 2007, two 06 Wild Gift recipi-ents returned to Idaho to report ontheir projects. Jonas pulled togethertwo board members, three alums andme to complete the trip. It was Septem-

ber, cool and damp, the termination ofa severe fire season that had closed theriver a month before.

Gift recipient Emily Owen wasunfazed by the weather. The 24-year-old had come from southern Chile and arelentlessly wet austral winter. In Chile,the young Oregonian is a mapping engi-neer for the World Wildlife Fund andmoonlights as a freelance translator.With Wild Gifts help, she created Con-servation Initiative Consulting to help anetwork of rural landowners form a clus-ter of private protected areas. Throughthe smoke of our wood fire, Owen wasanimated as she flung colorful maps atus and reeled off the results of her proj-ect. Her consulting firm had developeda replicable, community-based, privateconservation model. It was a step towardher long-range goal of establishing con-servation legislation.

Lauren Baumann, 27, dubbed herWild Gift project Lighten the Load.Its mission was to increase environmen-tal performance and reduce the operat-ing costs of affordable housing whileimproving the health of low-income resi-dents. Intensely focused and articulate,Baumann cited the nexus between urbansustainability and wildlands preserva-tion. As vice president of New EcologyInc., a Cambridge, Massachusetts, non-profit that promotes sustainable devel-opment in low-income communities, shecontinues to develop the program.

Last winter Jonas turned over thedirectorship of Wild Gift, passing thetorchand the paperworkto thenext generation. Wild Gift alum JennaRingelheim, 27, left a position with theTrust for Public Land in Boston, Mas-sachusetts, and moved to the WoodRiver Valley to assume the Wild Gifthelm last fall. Tech-savvy and energetic,she directs the nonprofit show, allowing

Jonas more time to roam.Liberated from files of longhand

script, the records of a lifelong search forturf and meaning, Jonas returned to thewilderness, escorting board membersor potential donors down the flood-stage upper reaches of some unknown

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fork of the Owyhee River, walking andtalking with recipients through the Frankin August as it blazes away, and howl-ing at the moon over the Middle ForksImpassable Canyon.

Everyone seems to agree, said PeteLand. Bob has a certain wisdom bornof his vast experience in the wilds. Land,30, was the Wild Gift prototype. Aftergraduating from Dartmouth, he took a

job as educational director at the VinceShute Wildlife Sanctuary in Minnesota.It was there, through serendipity anda shared affinity for bears, that he met

Jonas, who was drawn to the young mansenergy and asked Land if hed been toAlaska. Land said no. They exchangedcards and parted ways. Several monthslater, when he was in graduate school atYale, Land received a call from Idaho.

The next summer, Land was on theYukon River with Andy Bassich, one of

Jonas iconoclastic friends living alonein the Alaskan bush. The hermit from New Jersey livedin a tiny cabin beside the wide river with his dogs, deeplyensconced in a distinctly antisocial subsistence lifestyle.

Jonas had homesteaded in Alaska and considered it anessential wilderness experience for a youngster like Land.Somehow, he convinced Bassich to take the grad studentin and put the boy to work. Wild Gift was still a malleableconcept then, and Land was the guinea pig.

Land described Bassich as a terrify-ing but wonderful teacher and, while hevalued the experience, he told Jonas thatsuch survival training was an unmanage-able liability. The Wild Gift vision, Landcounseled, needed to be refined. Jonaslistened. From its inception, the programhas been like this: an interactive experi-ence, a floating, roving think tank benton its own evolution for the sake of a

better world.I

Thanks to Land, Wild Gifts Website was recently overhauled. In recentupdates, Jonas places ever more empha-sis on network building as a core partof Wild Gifts mission. Educated andinspired by his youthful beneficiaries, theelder hobo and guide is speaking in termshe would not have used five years ago. Asyou age, Jonas said, theres a desire togive back. Wilderness has been capital in

that regard to me.Jonas is not your typical Sun Valley philanthropist, andthe capital he refers to is another type of commodity, oneincreasingly rare and precious. By offering it up to a selectfew, hes tapped a network of young people who share hispassions for the wild gifts of this world, each knowing thaton these wooded paths, that which is given is sustainedthrough time.

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recreation



hen Rebecca Rusch joined her high schoolcross-country team, she had no inkling of theimpact her decision would have on the rest of

her life.My neighbor said I wouldnt get fat, said Rusch, who

moved to Ketchum five years ago after leading a peripateticlifestyle for nearly a decade. And that I would get a freesweat suit. That sold me.

Despite such modest intentions, her results have beenanything but common. She has ditched high schools graycotton sweats for Lycra, running shoes forclipless pedals and track meets for world cham-pionship mountain bike races. Today, Rusch isone of the worlds elite endurance athletes.

I originally wanted to try hurdles andsprints, but my coach had me run the two-miler,and I started to find out that I was good at thingsthat are really long, Rusch said. In that way,all of this kind of found me.

All of this is Ruschs humble euphemismfor an extraordinary rsum: top finishes ingrueling paddling and adventure races, nationalchampionships in mountain biking and orienteering, andin 2007, reaching the pinnacle of her career by winning the24-hour Solo World Championship in mountain biking.

Rusch has recently branched into other endurancesports. On a whim, she entered the 2008 Nordic Ski Mas-ters World Cup and, with only a few years experience, wonher division.

Jon Duval tracks endurance champion

Rebecca Ruschs humble pursuit of pain.

Photos by David Campbell.

The motivation? I havent been able to clearly answerthat myself, she said about her choices to compete in someof the most physically demanding sports devised sincethe Greeks honored Zeus at Olympia. If something issimply fun and easy, it ends up being not that much of anachievement. Rusch seeks instead to define and extend hermental and physical limits. Maybe this is the modern-dayexplorer in all of us, she said.

The sweep of her achievements is slowly dawning onher. When cycling sponsor Specialized invited her to Cali-

fornia for a photo shoot with four fellowworld champions, she allowed herself amoment of satisfaction.

Here I am standing next to the bestroad cyclist in the world, Paolo Bettinifrom Italy, and I start to realize that they

cant do what I do, and that I must actu-ally be good at it, she said this spring,hurriedly knocking back a coffee beforedeparting for South Africa for a seven-day, 600-mile mountain bike stage race.Aprils trip illustrates another reason she

wills herself to the sacrifices of sweat and suffering:Sports are an amazing way to travel. From Idaho toNew Zealand to Kyrgyzstan, Rusch has chased athleticpain around the globe. This July she heads off to Canmore,Alberta, to defend her 24-hour Solo World title. You seeand experience things no tourist ever would. You alsolearn a lot about yourself.

W

accidentalathlete

the

If something is

simply fun and easy,

it ends up beingnot that much of

an achievement.



I spend a lot of time training for my job as an endurance bike racer. It

might sound easy to get on a bike to be at work, but there are plenty of

days when bad weather, lack of motivation or weak legs make my work

day as difficult as the next. I can choose not to show up, but Ill pay for

it months later with lousy performance and lost wages. The beauty of

exploring the Wood River Valley on a mountain bike lies in the huge

menu of options. I have only scratched the surface of whats available,but here are a few of my current close-to-home favorites.

Traverse Trail on Baldy: Up River Run Down Warm Springs Bike path home Time: 1 hour

When I dont have much time and just need to get sweaty and get my

heart pumping, the Quickie is my old standby. You can knock this out

in about an hour if you dont mess around or socialize with too many

friends along the way. River Run is a fantastic climb thats not too

steep and has great switchbacks for working on your handling skills.

You finish the climbing on the front end and then rip down one of the

best descents in the whole valley. These trails are buffed and flow

beautifully. Its a fast and fun 10 miles; just be heads up for hikers

and dogs. The vibe up there is always social, and youre back home

in no time.

Corral Creek Pioneer CabinJohnstone Bear Parker Gulch Time: about 6 hours

You can hit this ride straight from town without even getting in your

car. Boasting two very long climbs totaling 6,000 feet, the Test has

the most elevation gain of any town-accessible ride. While short

on mileage, its long on time. This is a true test; there is no hiding

and uphill speeds are often just 3 mph. But with backcountry views

into the Pioneer Mountains and sweet singletrack downhill, you are

hugely rewarded at the end. It definitely wont feel like youre just a

few miles from Highway 75 and Grumpys.

Heidelberg Hill Adams GulchHulen Meadows Fox CreekChocolate Gulch Oregon Gulch Time: your call!

This may be far from secret, but I have never been anywhere else

in the world with such a killer system of interconnected trails. The

beauty of this spider web on the valleys west wall is that you can ride

perfect singletrack for 45 minutes, six hours or anywhere in between

and rarely ride over the same section of trail twice. Youll find climb-

ing, swoopy descents, great views and, once again, you can access

all of this right from town. If youre feeling light, you can turn home

or, if you feel like a rock star that day, you just keep adding on!

the locals line

RRush

ebeccas

?

Rebecca Rusch on

her favorite Ketchum

training rides

the fitness test

the add on

Rusch learned a lot about herself three years agoin Utah at her first 24-hour team race. She entered 24Hours of Moab at the behest of her friends, MuffyRitz and Karoline Droege, names not far removed fromRuschs in the annals of local athletic achievement.

It sounded heinous at first, Rusch said of a full dayin the saddle, adding that she had always consideredcycling the weakest part of her adventure racing arsenal.But in the 24th hour, with team Ketchum If You Cantrailing in second, Rusch turned in a blistering final lap,

putting the hammer down to set the womens courserecord that day and overtake first place by 11 minutes.The explorer had crossed into yet another frontier.

A year later, Rusch entered her first 24-hour solo racein Spokane, Washington. At registration, she was anunknown, just some girl from Idaho. Twenty-four hourslater, she had beaten every man, woman and team on abike. She was faster than 18 four-person teams, morethan two hours faster than the next closest woman, and25 minutes faster than the speediest man. Ive donewell in the mens field before, but Ive never beaten every-body, she said after the win in June 2006. A year afterthis breakout rookie performance, she earned her WorldChampion rainbow jersey inLaguna Seca, California.

Looking back, Ruschsees a career that could haveevolved differently. Im anaccidental athlete, she said.Before finding her cyclingniche, she briefly consideredrunning 100-mile ultra-mar-athons. But with the ongo-ing backing of Red Bull, theenergy drink company thatremains one of her biggestsponsors, Rusch was free toexplore other sports (endur-ance mountain biking forinstance), rather than beingforced into a regular job topay the bills.

This summer, during the Montezumas Revenge 24-hour mountain bike race in Colorado, Rusch will turn40. Talking about age draws a laugh as she gestures ather surroundings. People around here are all 10 yearsyounger than they actually are. And I dont mean theyjust look it; they are actually 10 years younger, shesaid. Everyones out there constantly doing stuff, frombiking to skiing to hiking. Theres a collective mentalitythat if you dont use it, youll lose it.

This mentality, along with what she calls perfectterrain for training, provides a home base for thetypically itinerant Rusch. She is part of the commu-nity; for more than two years she has been a stalwartvolunteer emergency medical technician and firefighterfor the Ketchum Fire Department, and a homeowner.On breaks from her race schedule, she works on hercondominium, though the domestic idea continues tobemuse her; the last home she owned was a 1975 FordBronco.

Other than that, I dont have any long-term plans,Rusch said. Well, except just staying healthy.

At registration, she

was an unknown,

just some girl from

Idaho. Twenty-four

hours later, she had

beaten every man,

woman and teamon a bike.

sVg


47/84

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YEMILIEDUPONT

By Kitt Doucette

catching the



he sun rises slow over Pettit

Lake. Picturesque mountain peaks

duplicate in the morning waters stillglass as a handful of friends gather on

a wooden dock. Somebody is speaking

in a mixture of surf slang and country

twang: I reckon its gonna be two feet

and glassy all day long. The dialect is

as incongruous as the days sport: long-

board surfing a lake hundreds of miles

from the nearest ocean swell.

Wake surfing is no new phenomenon;Hawaiis surfing pioneers rode wakesin Honolulu Harbor when the oceanrelaxed. Some enterprising Texans havegained notoriety for riding the wakesoften several miles longof giant oiltankers in the Gulf of Mexico.

In central Idahos Sawtooth Valley,longboard lake surfing can be tracedback to two brothers and their dads1964 Hansen longboard. Jim and JohnGrossman grew up traveling betweenSanta Monicas sun-kissed beaches and

Idahos whitewater rivers. Their father,Sam Grossman, was an early Malibusurfer and a lifelong Idaho kayaker whoinstilled his taste for nontraditionalsports in both sons at an early age. Inthe early 1980s, Jim brought his fathers1964 longboard to Idaho on a whim.Envisioning shredding for hours onnever ending whitewater play waves, hestrapped the Hansen onto his car roofand toured Idaho for a summer, surfingwaves and turning heads on rivers likethe Payette and Salmon.

Two decades later, Jims youngerbrother, John, was gearing up for hisown kayak trip when he discovered theold board buried deep in the recessesof the family garage. The fiberglass wasyellowing and the deck was covered incandle wax, but the old V-fin was stillrock solid. He grabbed the board, andonce again the relic toured Idahos backroads and rivers.

On the way home from one suchtrip, John Grossman stopped to meethis older brother at their family cabin

T

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on Pettit Lake. The brothers were swap-ping Idaho river surf stories when anidea took hold: riding the old boardbehind the ski boat, using its smallwake to propel them. If it could bedone in Texas, it could be done here.A gang

sun valley mag 08

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