VOLVO TECHTIPS

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Information for the Independent Volvo Specialist

AUXILIARY BELT Service

Cooling systemsFuel Systems

MOONROOF/SUNROOF

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F E A T U R E S

Volvo Senior Project Director Ron Jenkins Senior Manager, Business Strategy and Analytics

Volvo Project Lead Roman Grudinin Wholesale Program Manager

Group Publisher Christopher M. Ayers, Jr. cayers@AutomotiveDataMedia.com

Editor G. Quagmire gquagmire@AutomotiveDataMedia.com

Contributing Writers Kevin Parkhurst, Sean Stephens, Wayne Riley, Frank Walker

Automotive Data Media Project Mgr. Tamra Ayers Banz tbanz@AutomotiveDataMedia.com

Art Director Christopher M. Ayers III ayersc3@AutomotiveDataMedia.com

Editorial and Circulation Offices: 134B River Rd., Montague, NJ 07827

Volvo TechTips is a publication sponsored by Volvo Car USA LLC. No part of this newsletter may be reproduced without the express written permission of Volvo Car USA LLC.

Have a content idea, suggestion, or comment? Contact us: feedback@VolvoTechTips.com

Caution: Vehicle servicing performed by untrained persons could result in serious injury to those persons or others. Information contained in this publication is intended for use by trained, professional auto repair technicians ONLY. This information is provided to inform these technicians of conditions which may occur in some vehicles or to provide information which could assist them in proper servicing of these vehicles.Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to perform repairs correctly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that a topic covered in these pages automatically applies to your vehicle or that your vehicle has that condition. Volvo Car USA LLC, the Volvo name and Volvo logo are registered trademarks of Volvo Corporation.

A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S E R V I C E

You may remember the day that you first opened the hood on one of these newer Volvos equipped with the 3.0L or the 3.2L (SI6) six cylinder engine.

4

C O O L I N G S Y S T E M S , S E R V I C E A N D

R E P A I RKeeping this system free of dirt,

debris, and rust is imperative.

12

F U E L S Y S T E M SVolvo engines have been fuel injected

for many years, but the fuel injection system has changed a bit. We will go over different systems used through

the years, how to maintain these systems, and the various problems

that might occur.

18

M O O N R O O F /S U N R O O F S E R V I C E ,

D I A G N O S I S A N D R E P A I R

Today’s sunroofs are multi-functional and even multi-sectional, and some

Volvos even have full-length sunroof glass that covers almost the entire

roofline of the car.

28

D E P A R T M E N T SWhat the Heck is that Noise? 10

Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) 26Sunroof Case Study: Stuck in the 80 Percent Closed Position 35

Visit Volvotechinfo.com for more information on specific tools referenced. If original tools are no longer available

for purchase, substitute a generic equivalent as needed.

Cover Photo Credit: Sean Stephens

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 3

850 Volvo Transmission

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 4

AUXILIARY BELT SERVICE ON THE VOLVO 3.0L TURBO (B6304T4)

AND 3.2L NON TURBO (B6324S) SI6 (SHORT SIX) ENGINES

Y O U M A Y R E M E M B E R T H E D A Y T H A T Y O U F I R S T O P E N E D T H E H O O D O N O N E O F T H E S E

N E W E R V O LV O S E Q U I P P E D W I T H T H E 3 . 0 L O R T H E 3 . 2 L

( S I 6 ) S I X C Y L I N D E R E N G I N E .

At first glance, you may have noticed a few major changes, like no timing belt and the lack of anything familiar about the front of the block where the belts and pulleys usually are on most Volvos.

You may have been taken by surprise to see the belts and all the engine’s accessories were on the back of the engine, squeezed in between the engine block and the transmission.

You may have thought to yourself something like, “This is never going to work,” or “How the heck are you going to change the belts and things like the water pump and power steering pump?” Well, that’s what older Volvo techs said about the first Volvo all aluminum 5 cylinder engines when they came out.

And those engines certainly worked out.

Volvo has had its share of new engine designs over the years since the end of the use of the old “RED” block engines, especially in the last decade. Of course, you may or may not know that Volvo is going back to its roots and using the same size engine in all its cars. Starting with the 2018 model year, most Volvos now come equipped with a 2.0L 4 cylinder engine with different aspiration options.

However, the fact is that the previously used SI6 3.0L and the 3.2L engines have turned out to be very reliable and robust with few major problems, if reasonably serviced.

Volvo designed the SI6 (“Short Inline 6”) straight six engine for use starting in their 2007 models, and it was installed in cars you’ll commonly see in your shop.

An evolution of the company’s long-used 5 cylinder modular engine design, which itself was an evolution of the Volvo B6304 straight six engines, the SI6 could be mounted transversely for front wheel drive or all wheel drive applications.

Despite the added cylinder and displacement, the engine remains compact and is in fact 1 mm (0.039 in.) shorter than the previous straight 5.

The engine was initially offered in two displacements, a 3.0L turbocharged version and a 3.2L naturally aspirated version.

Both engine sizes offer variable valve timing adjustment, though only the turbo version varies both the intake and exhaust camshafts.

On top of the variable cam timing used on the intake cam of the naturally aspirated engine, it also features variable valve lift by using Cam Profile Switching (CPS).

Volvo put the accessories between the block and the transmission to make the power train as compact as possible, making it easier to fit it into multiple body types, and the shorter engine allows for improved turning radius.

If you are changing the auxiliary belt on a V70 or an XC60 equipped with the 3.0L or 3.2L engine, you will need to remove the battery and battery tray because the battery is located in the left side of the engine compartment.

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C H A N G I N G T H E A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S O N A 2 0 0 7 X C 9 0 W I T H S I 6 3 . 2 L E N G I N E For a case study we will be using a 2007 Volvo XC90 equipped with the 3.2L SI6 engine.

Changing the belt on this car is very similar to most other Volvos that came with one of these engines with just a few small variations.

The procedure for changing the belts is essentially the same procedure for the water pump, A/C compressor, or any of the auxiliary tensioners.

Even if you are just replacing the belts, it can take some time and is a bit more involved than your usual auxiliary belt replacement job.

Since you will be removing the air cleaner and the ECM that’s mounted on top of it, you should start the job by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.

When disconnecting and reconnecting the battery on a Volvo always follow the Volvo factory battery procedures as covered in TJ 24188.

Next remove the main engine cover by pulling it up and out of the way.

Remove the ECM cover on top of the air cleaner and carefully remove the two harness connectors. When the belt is off, always check the pulleys and bearings for play and roughness.

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A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S E R V I C E

Be gentle with the plastic retaining clips; they can be brittle.

Remove the air cleaner box.

You will have to remove the wire harness connector for the main fuse block along with the 12 mm nut that holds the end of the B+ cable in the main fuse block.

Remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold the cold air intake tube.

Remove the nuts for the power steering reservoir so you can move it out of the way.

Next, loosen the clamps at each end of the main air intake pipe that runs from the air cleaner to the bottom of the intake manifold.

Carefully remove the intake pipe by gently twisting and pulling. DO NOT pry at the ends with a screwdriver. This can damage the pipe and may cause unmetered air leaks.

Next you will have to remove the bolts that mount the A/C compressor.

In most cases (except for the replacement of the A/C compressor itself), you should not have to remove the refrigerant charge because you just need to move the compressor a little out of the way to get enough room to remove and replace the belts.

This will also give you a lot more access to the drive belt area. Use a 19 mm box end wrench to slacken the tensioner and relieve the tension on the belt.

Pull the tensioner back until the holes line up in the tensioner arm and the mounting. Then use a 3 mm pin or equivalent to lock the tensioner in position (you can reuse an old timing belt tensioner retaining pin for this).

The next steps will be to remove the bolts that mount the power steering pump. Start with the two small bolts that connect the power steering pulley to the water pump coupling assembly and then remove the four mounting

bolts at the rear of the power steering pump.

When you remove the power steering pump from the water pump coupler, remove the pins from the pulley. Rotate the power steering pump upward and rearward.

In some cases, you will have to disconnect the power steering pump high pressure line to move the pump out of the way.

Now that you have removed all of those components, you will be able to remove the old serpentine belt.

W H E N T H E B E LT I S O F F. . . C H E C K T H O S E B E A R I N G S Sometimes it’s hard to tell if the auxiliary belt tensioner or idler bearings are worn just by listening to the engine running. A worn or dry bearing may only make noise intermittently so it is important to spot any potential bearing problems now.

If you find a binding or noisy idler bearing, now is the time to replace it.

When you are in the drive belt area, it’s a good idea to check to see if the brake vacuum pump is leaking. You can reseal it with a seal kit (Volvo part number 31401556) available from Volvo. You will have great access to the pump to replace the auxiliary belt while these parts are removed.

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 7

And, if the car has more than 100K on it, you may want to advise your customer to replace the tensioner and idler bearings as part of the belt service; this will probably end up saving them some money in the long run.

The idler bearings can fail before the belts do, so don’t take any chances, replace any questionable parts when you’re in there.

It’s more common to have to change the water pump than the power steering pumps on these cars, but in both cases you will have to remove the power steering pump.

So let’s assume that you have removed everything that’s involved in replacing the serpentine belt.

If you started out to replace the water pump, you could add draining of the engine coolant right after disconnecting the battery.

The power steering pump pulley drives the water pump via a spring loaded coupler that is bolted right to the face of the power steering pump pulley. The water pump coupler is delicate and can be damaged if you’re not careful.

(Note: Some later Volvos equipped with the SI6 engines use electronic power steering, so they don’t use a belt-driven power steering pump. )

W H E N R E M O V I N G T H E P O W E R S T E E R I N G P U M P Remove the two screws and poke out the lugs from the power steering pulley. Turn the power steering pump upward and rearward.

W H E N I N S TA L L I N GTo facilitate fitting of the water pump coupling in the power steering pump pulley, turn the coupling until the spikes are in the eight o’clock and two o’clock position. Make sure that the pins stick out through the holes in the pulley.

Always use a new guide pin when installing the power steering pump.

If you are replacing the water pump, the Volvo pump comes with new hardware and a new plastic guide pin.

Is that vacuum pump leaking?

Well now is a great time to reseal it with all this extra room. Volvo sells a reseal kit for this purpose with everything you will need (Volvo part number 31401556 ).

The 3.0L and the 3.2L SI6 engines both came equipped with a mechanical vacuum pump that is mounted on the rear of the cylinder head and is driven by the intake camshaft. These vacuum pumps can start to show signs of engine oil leaks after many miles of use. You will usually notice oil seeping from the bottom of the pump.

Removing and resealing these pumps is a relatively easy job, made even easier when the other components are out of the way during a belt replacement job. The reseal kit from Volvo comes with everything you need to do the job.

Start by removing the two bolts that mount the pump assembly to the back of the head.

Next, carefully remove the vacuum pump hard line from the pump check valve by squeezing the quick connector

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A U X I L I A R Y B E LT S E R V I C E

tabs on the plastic hose fitting and pulling the hose out towards the rear of the engine.

Now you can remove the vacuum pump from the back of the head by pulling and twisting the pump. Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar for this task as you may damage the machined surfaces. Some oil will leak out of the hole in back of the head, so be ready with a rag. Take the pump to a work bench for disassembly and reassembly.

Clean the oil and dirt off the outside of the pump housing with parts cleaner and clean rags.

You will need a Torx T25 tool to remove the five screws that hold the pump together. You should be able to remove the screws without putting the pump in a vise, since clamping down on the pump body may cause damage to the pump.

With the five T25 screws removed you can disassemble the pump, making a note of the way the pump parts are oriented.

Clean the parts and the inside of the pump with a clean rag and spray parts cleaner, then dry the parts with low air pressure.

Inspect all the parts, and make sure they are free of debris before reassembly.

Use the new screws that come with the reseal kit.

Install the large O-ring into the groove in the body of the pump. You can use a little bit of silicone grease to hold the seal in place while you reassemble the two halves of the pump.

Tighten the five new screws evenly in a star pattern (torque screws to 15 Nm).

Next, replace the plastic check valve that attaches to the main vacuum pipe. Note that the new check valve will have a new O-ring installed on it already.

Before you reinstall the freshly resealed pump, install the new O-ring in the groove around the input shaft of the pump. Use a little silicone lubricant on the seal to prevent twisting or damage to the O-ring when it is installed into the cylinder head.

Line up the pump drive shaft with the corresponding grooves in the camshaft and slide the pump in, installing the two hold down bolts and torque them to 17 Nm.

Snap in the vacuum pipe and you’re done.

The idler bearings can fail before the belts do, so don’t take any chances. Replace any questionable parts while you’re in there. •

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VOLVO GENUINE PARTS

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Have you ever had a Volvo equipped with a 3.2L non-turbo engine come into your shop with a customer complaint of a high-pitched whining or whistling noise coming from the engine?

Of course you have. Most technicians would automatically start thinking a noise like that was most likely caused by a worn auxiliary belt or a worn pulley.

Well, in some cases they would be right.

What else could be the culprit? On the 3.2L SI6 engine a high-pitched whine could come from multiple sources, like worn belts, pulleys or even an intake air leak.

But one of the causes can be a ruptured diaphragm in the oil trap box, located on top of the valve cover at the rear of the engine.

Over time, the diaphragm in the oil trap can crack and start to make a whistle noise, especially at idle when the engine is warmed up.

An easy way to confirm that the diaphragm is cracked is to try to pull out the dipstick or remove the oil filler cap while the car is idling. There will be lots of engine vacuum, which will make it difficult to remove the dipstick and make it seem like the oil filler cap is glued on.

But once you vent the vacuum, the noise will go away.

Sometimes this problem can be very intermittent because the crack in the diaphragm is very small, but as the leak gets larger, the customer will begin to notice more symptoms.

Since a broken oil trap diaphragm is interpreted by the ECM as an unmetered intake air leak, it will eventually cause the Check Engine light to illuminate and in most cases store a PO171 code.

The customer may even notice a change in engine performance and fuel economy. There is also a risk if this problem is left unchecked: the excess crankcase pressure can cause premature oil seal failures and subsequent oil leaks.

Fortunately for your customers, this repair is fairly affordable and easy to perform.

The oil trap comes from Volvo as an entire assembly complete with a new seal installed in the base.

Make sure you use air to blow off any loose dirt or debris before you remove the old oil trap assembly.

All you will need to do the job is a Torx T30 socket and a pocket screwdriver to pop out the wire connector clips that are attached at the edges of the box. •

WHAT THE HECK IS THAT NOISE?

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 0

S U M M E R 2 0 1 9 1 1

VOLVO GENUINE PARTSNOTHING CAN REPLACE THEM

When a part needs replacement, a Volvo Genuine Part is the right choice. Manufactured to Volvo’s exact

specifications, they deliver the safety, quality and reliability your customers expect from the Volvo brand.

Volvo Genuine Parts fit perfectly and come with a 2-year limited warranty.*

Contact your local Volvo dealer for a complete selection of Volvo Genuine Parts.

2-year warranty

* U.S. only. Warranty excludes consumable “wear item” parts, labor and Volvo accessories.

X X X X

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 1 2

Volvo Cooling systems, service and repair

K E E P I N G T H I S S Y S T E M F R E E O F D I R T , D E B R I S ,

A N D R U S T I S I M P E R A T I V E .

Using heat gun to expand pipe, making it easier to remove

It is very important to keep Volvo cooling systems properly maintained to assure there are no leaks and no potential problems for the customer. Running out of coolant or antifreeze will overheat the engine and possibly ruin it. Always advise your customers to keep an eye on the temperature gauge to make sure the vehicle is not getting hot. The engine is designed to run at an optimum temperature. This is not just for performance, it’s also about maintaining the right temperature for all the emission control systems so they will perform at their peak.

P E R I O D I C M A I N T E N A N C EKeeping this system free of dirt, debris and rust is imperative. Flushing the system out from the vehicle and adding new coolant will keep the cooling system fresh and reliable.

R E P L A C I N G R A D I AT O R I N A 2 0 0 4 X C 7 0 The radiators in these vehicles are removed from the bottom of the vehicle. Volvo started this in 1993 with the front wheel drive vehicles, the 850 being the first.

Raise the vehicle on a hoist and remove the air valance that is positioned under the radiator, then remove the air conditioning condenser and turbo intercooler. The turbo intercooler and the radiator will come down together, leaving the air conditioning condenser to remain in the vehicle. Drain coolant from the system; this can be done at the bottom corner of the left front area of the radiator. Unscrew the petcock until all coolant has drained, then tighten the petcock.

While the vehicle is still up in the air remove two bolts with 10 mm heads that hold the radiator, condenser and intercooler together.

Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator and plug both ends so coolant doesn’t leak all over.

Lower the vehicle to work on top. Remove the top radiator hose and also remove the intercooler hose and pipe to the turbo. Remove the screws that hold the electric fan in place. Disconnect the electrical connector that goes to the fan and pull the fan assembly up and out.

Remove the two 10 mm bolts at the top that hold the radiator, intercooler and condenser together. Now, the intercooler pipe from intercooler to throttle will need to be removed. Also remove the top reservoir or expansion tank hose that is connected to the top of the radiator.

Remove the transmission hoses, upper and lower, connected to radiator. Push in on green connectors and pull out. It is necessary to replace the connectors and O-rings on both hoses. Use Volvo Genuine Part number 9485149 and O-ring, 988840. Make sure to put a drip pan under the hoses to catch escaping fluids.

Now that everything is disconnected, raise the vehicle back up and remove the last two 12 mm bolts holding the complete assembly in. The condenser will stay in the vehicle; you can secure it with tie wraps. Pull down both the radiator and intercooler together. This can be hard to do; pulling down passenger side first at an angle will help in removing the radiator.

Once the radiator and intercooler are out, match up the new radiator with the intercooler. Replace both radiator mounts and the nuts that fit in the top of radiator that hold in the fan assembly. Using some A/C pipe wrap will hold the nuts in place so they won’t fall out while installing the radiator.

Assemble the radiator with intercooler into the vehicle. Install it at an angle up at the driver’s side then fit it with the air conditioning condenser. Push up level so that all three (radiator, intercooler and condenser) are together. Using a scissor jack can help in holding all together. Install the two radiator bolts 12 mm headed. Install the two bottom 10 mm bolts that hold all three units together. Start them but leave them loose until the other two at top are in place.The two bolts at the bottom of the radiator, one on each side

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While the vehicle is still on the hoist, install the bottom radiator hose and secure. The bottom cooling hose to transmission can now be installed. Remember to use new O-rings and connector. Fit into the radiator and secure. Lower the vehicle and install the top cooling hose from the transmission with new O-rings and connector. Install the two long 10 mm bolts that hold everything together and tighten. Install the rubber hose from the expansion tank to the top of the radiator and tighten the clamp.

Making sure to hold electrical wiring out of the way, install the electric fan assembly. Slip fan assembly into place and secure with two bolts at the top of the radiator. Plug in the electric connectors that were removed and tie wrap together out of the way of any moving parts.

Install the top radiator hose and secure. Add new coolant to the system (Volvo coolant 31439821), and check to make sure there are no leaks. Install the turbo intercooler hose and pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. Connect the pipe from the throttle housing to the intercooler and tighten the clamp. Start the vehicle and warm up, adding coolant if needed.

Raise the vehicle back up on the hoist and check to make sure there are no leaks from the radiator, hoses, and transmission lines. Tighten the two 10 mm long bolts already installed at the bottom of the radiator. Lower the vehicle and test drive. Let the vehicle cool down and check the coolant level again to make sure the tank is full.

R E P L A C I N G W AT E R P U M P O N 2 0 0 3 S 8 0 N O N T U R B OCustomer brings in a vehicle, 2003 S80 non turbo, complaining of overheating. Vehicle builds up pressure and starts to get hot. Seems like a possible head gasket, but wait! Be sure to check the temperature at the thermostat housing and at the radiator hoses. If the temperature is over 200 degrees F at the thermostat housing, and only 80 degrees F at the radiator inlet, and if the bottom hose is also cooler than the thermostat housing, it’s possible there’s no circulation in the coolant system.

After the vehicle cools down, remove the thermostat from the vehicle and secure the housing. Fill the system with water and check again. If the same thing occurs again - hot at the thermostat housing and cool at the radiator - it’s time to check the water pump.

Under these circumstances, it’s possible the water pump has failed. The water pump on this vehicle is driven by the timing belt.

R E P L A C I N G T H E W AT E R P U M P O N 2 0 0 3 S 8 0 T U R B O The water pump is on the front of engine on the right side of the vehicle. Drain all coolant from system. This can be done at the radiator petcock at the bottom of the radiator. After all coolant is out, tighten the petcock.

Remove the expansion tank and power steering reservoir from the vehicle, and plug all lines so not to drip fluids. Remove the auxiliary serpentine belt from the vehicle. The timing cover will need to be taken off; remove the center bolt that holds on the cover. Remove the top torque rod across the top of the engine. This will make it easier to remove the cover.

Now that the cover is removed, the water pump is exposed. Jack the vehicle up or put the vehicle on a hoist and raise it up enough to remove the tire on the right side of the vehicle. Pull back the inner fender removing two 10 mm plastic nuts. Use a 30 mm socket with extension and turn the crankshaft clockwise until all timing marks are lined up.

Loosen the timing belt tensioner with a 12 mm wrench and remove the timing belt and set it aside. Remove the two engine mount bolts under the crankshaft and jack the front of engine up. This will give more room to remove the water pump.

Now that the water pump is exposed, use a 10 mm socket to remove all seven bolts holding the water pump on. Tap on the pump to release it from the engine block. Remove the pump and inspect. If any impeller blades are missing or broken, or if the impeller just spins easily, this is the problem.

Transmission hose at radiator with green connector

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V O LV O C O O L I N G S Y S T E M S

Once the water pump is removed, clean the surface really well with sandpaper and a blade to remove gasket material. Use a gasket sealer to secure the gasket to the new water pump, Volvo Genuine Part number 30751700 and replace bolts part number 985151. Set the pump with gasket into place, making sure that the two dowel pins line up and the water pump is flat. Install the water pump bolts and tighten.

Timing marks lined up

Water pump with impeller blades broken away

Reinstall the timing belt, making sure that the timing marks are lined up. Route the belt around the crankshaft up to the intake camshaft over to the exhaust camshaft, down to the water pump and around the tensioner. With the tensioner loose, push the needle over just enough to slide the belt on. Check to make sure the marks are aligned. With a 6 mm Allen wrench, position the timing tensioner to the desired position, and tighten with a 12 mm wrench. Spin the engine over by hand to make sure the timing marks are aligned properly. Route the auxiliary belt correctly around all pulleys.

Tool inserted at trim of radio system

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Install the expansion tank and connect the hoses. Make sure the radiator petcock is tight. Add coolant to the system and check to make sure there are no leaks.

Lower the engine and install the engine mount bolts and tighten. Leave the front timing cover off at this time. Install the power steering reservoir and hoses, being sure the power steering is full. Start the engine and bring it up to normal operating temperature. Add coolant until full and install the cap. Let the vehicle warm up, and check for any leaks again. Shut off the vehicle and install the front timing cover and top torque rod across the top of the engine. Test drive the vehicle and check to make sure the coolant is full.

H E AT E R C O R E R E P L A C E M E N T 2 0 0 8 X C 7 0Replacing heater cores can sometimes be very challenging. Having the right tools and the know-how to do this job will help in getting it done correctly.

Referring to VIDA will always help when replacing a Volvo heater core.

Leaking coolant inside the cabin floor is always a good indication the heater core is leaking. Cleaning this coolant out of the cabin area can sometimes be time consuming. You often have to remove both front seats and carpet, and then clean and vacuum all the coolant up so your customer won’t be breathing fumes from the coolant.

Drain coolant from the engine system at the bottom of the radiator on the left side.

Once coolant is drained, tighten the petcock so no dripping will occur.

Inside the vehicle, the center console will need to come out. With a trim tool, remove the face plate around the infotainment system. This will expose the screws that will need to come out.

Also, remove the trim around the shifter with the same trim tool. Once the trim is removed, remove the eight screws that hold down the information and entertainment display with the climate control unit. Two screws on the back side will need to come out too. Disconnect all electrical connections

and fiber optic cables, making sure not to bend to a radius of less than 25 mm. Set aside the entertainment display and climate control unit.

Now, for removing the center console, move both front seat back as far as they will go. Remove both side panels; this will expose the screws to remove at the front of the console. Open up the console compartment and remove the rubber liner. Underneath there will be two T25 Torx fasteners that need to come out.

Remove the screw under the cup holder, and pull the cup holder straight up. The shifter cable will need to be disconnected at the shift assembly. Push the cable end out towards the passenger side so that the cable is free of the shifter assembly. Disconnect all electrical connectors and remove the complete console and set it out of the way.

Now that the center console is out, remove the air ducting surrounding the heater box. Remove the four screws on the front cover and also the two screws covering the coolant pipes. This will give room to disconnect the coolant pipes going to the heater core.

Covers at front and over coolant pipes

Side panels at bottom of console

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Push in the collector at the connection and pull out on the coolant pipe. Some heater cores will have a clamp holding the pipes in the heater core. Just unscrew and remove them together. Be prepared to collect any coolant that might escape. Remove the heater core and replace it with a Volvo Genuine part.

Clean out the heater box with a detergent and rinse. Dry out the box and make sure all coolant is cleaned up.

Install the new heater core. Connect both coolant pipes and secure in place. Install the cover over top and tighten the screws to hold it in place. Install the cover over the pipes, right side up, and tighten down. Align all the heater duct tubing and snap into place.

Put the center console back into place and attach all electrical connectors. Tighten down the screws for the console. Connect the shifter cable and put into place. Check and make sure the shifter operates correctly. Install the cup holder after the screw is tightened down.

Install the information and entertainment display, with climate control. Attach all electrical connectors and fiber optics making sure not to crimp the fiber optics. Secure the panel with the temperature sensor.

Install the trim pieces around the shifter and information and entertainment display. Install the side panels at the console.

Add coolant to the system and warm up the vehicle, making sure the coolant is full. Test drive the vehicle. Let the vehicle cool down and top off the coolant. Check for any kinds of coolant leaks and make sure all controls work correctly.

Diagnosing coolant-related problems can sometimes be difficult. Using the right procedures can help to correct problems in the system. It could have been very easy to misdiagnose this problem with the water pump if the temperature was not checked at each place: the radiator top hose, bottom hose and engine thermostat. Looking for circulation in system will be helpful also.

Leaking coolant usually can be found by pressurizing coolant system. Hoses and clamps can sometimes be the problem. After years of wear on the vehicle, it’s a good idea to change all hoses and clamps. Oil can get on a hose and make it swell up and leak, especially near the turbo, where the hoses get really hot.

Checking the coolant system periodically and changing the coolant as needed will keep the system clean and the temperature gauge where it’s supposed to be. •

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Volvo Fuel Systems

V O LV O E N G I N E S H A V E B E E N F U E L I N J E C T E D F O R M A N Y Y E A R S , B U T

T H E F U E L I N J E C T I O N S Y S T E M H A S C H A N G E D A B I T . W E W I L L G O O V E R

D I F F E R E N T S Y S T E M S U S E D T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R S , H O W T O M A I N T A I N

T H E S E S Y S T E M S , A N D T H E V A R I O U S P R O B L E M S T H A T M I G H T O C C U R .

In 1994, the Volvo 850 Turbo was fitted with Motronic 4.3 fuel injection. The new system was a complete system with a control module that controls fuel flow, idle speed, ignition timing, engine cooling fan, EGR system, EVAP system, air conditioning switch, and the boost control for the turbo. There was also an on-board diagnostic system.

Motronic 4.4 came along and added some more features, including:

• Atmospheric pressure sensor• Outside temperature sensor• Modified location of rear oxygen sensor. The sensor

was moved forward and right behind the three way catalytic converter.

• A more effective EVAP system• The fuel regulator is located above steering rack on

right side of vehicle and the hose routing is different.

The Motronic 4.4 B5254S fuel pressure regulator is connected in line, so pressure stays at 300 kPa (43.5 psi). This will give an accurate control for the Engine Control Module (ECM) to work on a non turbo engine.

With no return line from the fuel rail, the engine will not heat the fuel, and the fuel temperature will remain low to reduce evaporation from the fuel tank.

The Motronic 4.4 system was a very reliable system with little trouble. Keeping the vehicle maintained correctly is a big key. Changing the fuel filter, changing spark plugs and air filter every 30,000 miles, and using the correct fuel with the right octane — all these things need to be done to keep a Volvo running in top shape.

VO LVO E VA P SYST E MThe components of a 1998 Volvo S70 EVAP system:1. Canister purge valve 2. EVAP canister3. Shut-off valve4. Filter5. Fuel tank pressure sensor6. ORVR valve7. Rollover valve8. Motronic 4.4 ECM

When working on fuel systems, any time there is a fuel system leak, be sure to disconnect the battery before any repair.

On the 240, 740, and 940 vehicles, the injection systems were all Bosch-designed systems. These systems primarily used these components:

electric fuel pump fuel accumulator

fuel filter fuel pressure regulator

fuel distributor fuel injectors

These systems worked well, but as time went on, more strict emissions standards were introduced and the systems changed. Evaporative emissions systems were upgraded to keep fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere.

The complete 4.3 fuel injection system components include:1. Electronic Control Module (ECM)2. Engine Speed Sensor (RPM)3. Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)4. Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)5. Throttle Position Sensor (TP)6. Throttle Position Sensor (TP)7. Front oxygen sensor (HO2S)8. Rear oxygen sensor (HO2S)9. Knock sensor (KS)10. Speedometer 11. Transmission Control Module (TCM)12. EGR temperature sensor13. Acceleration sensor14. Air conditioning 15. Air conditioning pressure switch

16. Air conditioning pressure sensor17. System relay18. Fuel pump relay19. Fuel pump20. Injectors21. Idle Air Control valve (IAC)22. Idle Air Control valve (IAC)23. Turbocharger Control valve (TC)24. Fan relay25. Engine cooling fan26. Canister Purge valve (CP)27. EGR control28. Combined instrument panel29. Air conditioning compressor relay31. OBD II data link connection

Opposite Page: Fuel gauges hooked up to the Schraeder valve at the fuel rail

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C A N I S T E R P U R G E V A LV E ( C P )This valve controls the flow of fuel vapor and air from the EVAP canister to the engine. The valve is controlled by the ECM.

E V A P C A N I S T E RHydrocarbon vapor coming out of the fuel tank is dealt with by the EVAP canister. To minimize pressure drop in the lines between the fuel tank and the EVAP canister, the EVAP canister is located close to the fuel tank. The EVAP canister volume is 2.1 liters. A new type of carbon reduces pressure drop in the gas flowing through the EVAP canister.

E V A P C A N I S T E R S H U T O F F V A LV EThe valve is located close to the EVAP canister. The valve is part of the leak diagnostic system and temporarily closes the EVAP canister fresh air intake during the diagnostic test.

The filter is connected to the EVAP canister shut-off valve in line with a hose.

The pressure sensor is located in line with the ORVR valve and provides information about fuel tank pressure.

The ORVR valve has two functions: the rollover valve, which closes off fuel at the EVAP line so fuel won’t escape if the vehicle has rolled over, and also a float valve that closes when the fuel tank is full.

R O L L O V E R V A LV EThe rollover valve is mounted high on the fuel tank, and a small EVAP line runs from it to the ORVR valve. The rollover valve lets the fuel tank breathe when the ORVR valve is closed after the vehicle has been fueled up.

M O N T R O N I C 4 . 4The ECM controls all functions in the system during cold start and after warm-up.

The following is a description of how the EVAP system works.

When refueling starts, the check valve in the fuel tank opens. The fuel flow creates negative pressure at the top of the fuel filler pipe. This results in an air flow in the fuel filler pipe. It is important to have low resistance between the fuel tank and atmospheric pressure (via the EVAP canister shut-off valve filter) to stop fuel vapor from escaping from the fuel filler pipe. The principle of the system is called a dynamic seal.

When the fuel tank is full, the ORVR valve closes and the fuel tank pressure increases rapidly. This closes the check

EVAP canister valve

Purge valve

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V O LV O F U E L S Y S T E M S

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Cabin filterCLEAN AIR FOR EVERYONE

All Volvos are equipped with a cabin filter that cleans the incoming air to ensure a healthy in-car environment.

Replace the cabin filter every other maintenance visit, or more frequently if driving in high traffic areas

or on dusty roads.

Contact your local Volvo dealer for a complete selection of Volvo Genuine Parts.

pressure in the fuel tank drops rapidly the EVAP canister shut-off valve is clogged.

When the EVAP canister shut-off valve is closed, the (CP) canister purge valve continues to be pulsed, and pressure in the fuel tank should drop rapidly. If pressure does not drop enough, there is a large leakage in the fuel tank system. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be stored.

valve in the fuel tank, preventing fuel from coming out of the filler pipe when the fuel pump nozzle is shut off.

Fuel vapor in the fuel tank (together with air) reaches the EVAP canister via the ORVR valve. Fuel vapor is adsorbed by the carbon in the EVAP canister. If the ORVR valve is closed, the fuel tank is vented via the rollover valve.

When the canister purge valve (CP) is closed, the fuel vapor remains in the EVAP canister. When the ECM transmits an opening signal to the valve, vacuum from the intake manifold or from the fresh air intake creates a flow through the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister is connected to the outside atmosphere via the canister shut-off filter, which allows the flow to evacuate the EVAP canister.

The air flow through the EVAP canister removes stored fuel vapor, which flows to the engine and enters the combustion process. The canister purge valve (CP) pulses rapidly when the car is being driven and is idling.

H O W T H E E V A P S Y S T E M C A R R I E S O U T D I A G N O S T I C SWhen the EVAP canister shut-off valve and (CP) canister purge valve are closed, the fuel tank system is now com-pletely closed. Pressure in the fuel tank should be stable. If pressure drops the (CP) canister purge valve is leaking.

When the EVAP canister shut-off valve opens, the tank system is open. The (CP) canister purge valve is pulsed, and because of the negative pressure in the intake manifold, the engine starts to suck air through the EVAP canister. Because the EVAP canister shut-off valve is open, the pressure in the fuel tank drops slowly. If the

Smoke testing a vehicle

Smoke testing a vehicle and leaking hoses at the canister

Motronic Engine Control Module (ECM)

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When the canister purge valve is closed, the EVAP canister shut-off valve is still closed, so there is negative pressure in the fuel tank. The negative pressure in the fuel tank should be stabilized. If pressure starts to increase too quickly, this indicates a small leakage in the system. A diagnostic trouble code is stored. When the EVAP canister shut-off valve opens, the EVAP function is enabled and the diagnostic test is finished.

Smoke testing or introducing smoke into the system can help in finding EVAP leaks, possible hose leaks, or maybe a faulty seal at the tank. Hoses at the EVAP canister deteriorate, get worn out and crack, letting vapors out and setting a Check Engine light.

V O LV O 8 5 0 F U E L P U M P R E P L A C E M E N TNow that diagnosis has determined that the fuel pump is not working, make sure to disconnect the battery negative cable before beginning repairs. Relieve all pressure in the system. This can be done at the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail. Hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to relieve pressure and catch all fuel in a drip pan. Now that all pressure in the system is relieved, replacing the pump will be a cleaner and safer job.

Lower the right rear seat. This will give room to replace the fuel pump. Open the trunk and remove carpeting to expose the fuel pump cover. Disconnect all electrical wires that lead into the pump. Remove the cover bolts with 10 mm heads. Now that the cover is off, carefully disconnect the two quick connect fuel lines that are connected to the fuel pump.

Remove the collar using tool number 9995485. Pull out fuel slowly so as not to spill fuel everywhere. Install a new fuel pump, Volvo Genuine Part number 9480152. If the fuel pump is out for a time, make sure to temporarily install the collar. Otherwise, the fuel tank could expand due to the characteristics of the plastic tank.

After the new pump is installed, torque down the collar to 30 ft-lbs or 41 Nm. Connect both the pressure and return lines, making sure to connect correctly. Attach electrical connectors. Before buttoning up everything, connect the battery and start the vehicle, making sure there are no leaks and that the pressure is at the correct reading. Install the cover over the fuel pump assembly and install the carpet.

D I A G N O S I N G W H E N N O C H E C K E N G I N E L I G H T I S P R E S E N TDiagnosing fuel problems can sometimes be tricky. Suppose a customer comes in with a 2006 XC90 with no Check Engine light but with the customer saying the vehicle doesn’t have the same pickup as it used to. Well, of course the first check will be to verify fuel pressure.

This is a good time to utilize VIDA. Connect VIDA to the vehicle using DICE. Once the connection is secure, go to Vehicle Communication and select Engine Control Module. Go to Monitoring Systems Parameters and check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be approximately 400 kPa.

Idle the vehicle and check fuel pressure. Increase RPMs and continue to monitor fuel pressure. Does pressure stay the same? Test drive the vehicle while hooked up to VIDA, and see if pressure is the same under load. If not, and if pressure becomes erratic, but at idle the pressure is fine, the problem could be the fuel pressure sensor that is connected at the fuel rail.

Replace the fuel pressure sensor with Volvo Genuine Part number 31272730. Using a T25 Torx socket and ratchet, unscrew and remove the sensor. Put a rag around the sensor area to capture escaping fuel. Install a new fuel pressure sensor making sure not to damage the O-ring and tighten down. Attach the electrical connector and start the vehicle.

Monitor the system again with VIDA. Is fuel pressure OK at idle? How about while driving under a load? If fuel pressure reads good and the vehicle runs well, mission accomplished.

Consult TJ 32739 for Volvo fuel pump issues.

On certain models, Volvo had a recall because of a fuel smell and possible fuel leakage. This includes the 2001 to 2005 S80, the 2001 to 2004 V70, S60 and XC70, and the 2003 to 2005 XC90.

These vehicles would be inspected at your local dealer. The fuel pump would have to be exposed, and if the fuel pump is leaking for any reason, the fuel pump would be replaced at no charge to the customer.

Remember, the smell of raw fuel can always present the hazard of fire in your shop or at the customer’s home or place of business. So, always advise your customers to be

Volvo tool for removing the fuel pump collar

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safe and call you for a tow to your shop any time they smell raw fuel.

R E P L A C I N G F U E L P U M P I N A V O LV O X C 9 0 2 0 0 5 Once you know the fuel pump is the problem, the fuel gauge has been hooked up to Schraeder valve at injector rail and confirms no fuel pressure, check to make sure there is power and ground at fuel pump. Now to replace the fuel pump.

First off, we will need to drain some of the fuel out of the tank. This can be done by inserting a hose into the fuel filler pipe and using a suction device to extract fuel from the fuel tank. Depending on how much is in the fuel tank, remove as much as possible into a fuel container.

Pull up the rear seat bottoms and remove the bolts and take the seats out of the vehicle. Fold back the carpet and expose both the fuel level sensor which is on the left side, and the fuel pump assembly on the right side. Remove the covers over the fuel pump and level sensor. These are 10 mm small bolts. Mark both the fuel pump assembly and the level sensor. That way, both will go back together correctly.

Clean all debris, and blow out around both the fuel pump assembly and the fuel level sensor so debris doesn’t fall into the fuel tank. Disconnect the electri-cal connector and hoses at the fuel pump. Discon-nect the electrical connector at the level sensor.

Using special Volvo tool number 9995720, remove the plastic collar around the fuel level sensor.

Pull out the level sensor, being careful not to bend or damage the float. Disconnect the line going back into the tank at the level sensor. Connect some wire to the area that was disconnected at the level sensor. Make sure the wire is long enough to pull through the tank and out from the fuel pump side.

Remove the collar around the fuel pump and pull out slowly, catching any escaping fuel with a rag. Pull completely out, and pull wires from the other side. Connect the wire to the new pump wire and pull the wire back through to the left side of the tank, making sure the fuel pump assembly is in the correct position.

Screw the collar back on at the fuel pump side and tighten to 60 Nm. Attach the electrical connector and fuel lines making sure all are secure.

On the left side, remove the wire that was tied on that ran through the tank. Connect the level sensor and its electrical connector and insert it into the fuel tank, making sure to line it up correctly. Tighten the collar nut. Add fuel to the tank and start the engine, making sure there are no fuel leaks of any kind.

Install the covers over the fuel pump assembly and the level sensor. Lay the carpet back into place and install the seats, then tighten down. Test drive the vehicle, making sure performance is at its peak. •

Fuel Pressure Sensor

Using Volvo special tool number 9995720 to remove plastic collar

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 2 4

V O LV O F U E L S Y S T E M S

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Unlike the old butterfly mechanical throttle bodies, when all you needed was a screwdriver to adjust the idle, electronically controlled throttle modules started in 1999 for Volvo models S70, V70 AND XC70. Let’s go over failure symptoms, how to clean, and how to replace an Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) in a Volvo.

These are some of the symptoms of a faulty Electronic Throttle Module in a 1999 to 2001 S70, V70, or XC70:

• Rough idle or stalling• Idle hunting up and down when stopped at traffic lights• ETS light is on• Blowing ETM fuse• Limp-home mode• No communication with the ETM

When a customer comes in with one or more of these symptoms, the first thing you should do is to hook up VIDA and check for any codes in the system and also monitor the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM) for any unusual readings.

If a vehicle comes in with the ETS light on and the car is in Limp mode, it will likely exhibit very little response from the accelerator. Limp mode is designed so that the car does not come to a sudden halt and can still be driven at low speed to a position of safety.

There are a number of possibilities.

• The Electronic Throttle Module can be cleaned and refitted.

• The Electronic Throttle Module can be replaced with a new one.

• The Electronic Throttle system can receive a software upgrade.

In some cases, removing the Electronic Throttle Module and cleaning it can help with the problem, depending on how much buildup is blocking the butterfly.

R E M O V I N G E T M 1 9 9 9 V O LV O C 7 0First, remove the negative battery terminal and set it aside. Remove the fresh air hose to air cleaner assembly. Remove the four screws at the top of the cooling fan assembly. Remove both oil and transmission dipsticks, being careful not to break them.

Disconnect the hose at the top charge air fitting for the intercooler. Disconnect the relay electrical connectors and set aside. Also disconnect the electric cooling fan. Remove the evap valve from the shroud and move it out of the way. Push the cooling fan assembly towards the firewall and pull it straight up and out. Set the cooling fan assembly to the side.

Using a 7 mm flexible hand tool, disconnect both clamps at the hard plastic hose to throttle module to intercooler. Disconnect the air sensor connector and MAP sensor wire connector. Pop off both ends and remove them from the vehicle.

The wire connector for the Electronic Throttle Module harness runs behind the starter, so it will be necessary to remove the bracket at the front of the starter to get it out.

With a 10 mm deep socket and ratchet, remove the four bolts that hold the throttle module to the intake manifold, and remove the throttle module from the vehicle.

Clean the throttle module with cleaning agent Volvo Genuine Part number 1161826 and a small brush. Make sure to clean all surfaces, open the butterfly and clean the edges. Carefully clean the complete area and wipe clean. Do not use compressed air when cleaning.

Electronic Throttle Module (ETM)

Electronic Throttle Module

Install the throttle module with new gasket Volvo Genuine Part number 31430474 and secure the throttle module to the intake manifold. Connect the throttle module electrical connector and route the harness back into place. Secure the starter bracket. Install the plastic pipe at the throttle module and at the intercooler and tighten both clamps. Connect the electrical connectors at the air and MAP sensors.

Set the cooling fan back into place. Connect all electrical connectors to their original connectors. Secure the relay at the shroud. Tighten down the four screws holding the fan assembly in place with the shroud. Secure the evap valve to the shroud. Connect the top hose at the intercooler. Tie wrap the wires into place. Install the fresh air hose to the air cleaner housing.

After cleaning the throttle module, if any problems occur it might be necessary to replace the module and download software to match the VIN number. If replacing use the same method as cleaning.

In some instances, just updating the software may cure all your problems. This can be checked by using VIDA.

Volvo vehicles affected include the 1999-2004 Volvo C70 and the 1999-2000 Volvo S70,V70 and XC70.

T R O U B L E S H O O T I N G E L E C T R O N I C T H R O T T L E M O D U L EIf the ETM has been replaced and still the same problem occurs or worse, a combination of any of the following diagnostic trouble codes may be stored in the Engine Control Module: ECM-902B, ECM-902A, ECM-903F, ECM-912A, ECM-532D, ECM-9150. ECM-9160, ECM-951F. An ETM sweep test graph may show faulty sensor readings.

C A U S E O F P R O B L E M I N A D E Q U AT E C U R R E N T S U P P LY TO E T MThere are a few common areas that can cause significant current loss: the engine management relay, the ETM relay (only on 1999), the B+ terminal, or possibly a corroded ETM power supply.

Check the fuse at the fuse box at the left strut tower; check fuse #2 and replace if necessary. If this fuse is good check the engine management relay. 1999 Volvo vehicles had an ETM relay also. Replace both relays and check the vehicle. If the system continues to have problems there might be a problem with terminal B power supply. If the terminal looks to be corroded or burnt it will need to be replaced.

To replace this harness, use Volvo Genuine Part number 8628771. Separate the fuse box and remove the 13 mm nut that holds the cable to the fuse box. Remove the air filter box. This harness runs from the battery to the fuse box. Remove the plastic liner around the wire harness.

Install the new harness, connect it at the battery and at the fuse box, and secure the harness. Snap the fuse box back together and install the air filter housing. Start the vehicle and make sure all codes are gone from the system. •

Fuse box main relay and B+ terminal Harness connected at fuse box 13 mm nut

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Volvo special tools for doing this job.

VOLVO MOONROOF/SUNROOF SERVICE,

DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIRV O LV O C A L L S T H E M

M O O N R O O F S . F O R T H I S A R T I C L E

W E W I L L R E F E R T O T H E M A S S U N R O O F S .

Sunroof work is not for everyone; in a lot of cases, it can be more of an art than a science.

But of course, these days, most automotive technicians have to be both scientist and artist to work on some of these modern cars. It also helps to be a wizard too.

Sunroof problems are not unique to Volvos and are not always age-related.

Volvo has been offering slide and tilt type sunroofs on their cars since the late ’70s. Most of the early sunroofs were manually operated and were made from sheet metal, not glass.

Today’s sunroofs are multi-functional and even multi-sectional — some Volvos even have full-length sunroof glass that covers almost the entire roofline of the car.

Consumers want more and more bells and whistles in their cars, so don’t be surprised when we start seeing things like electronically self-darkening glass and solar panels installed in the roofs of future vehicles.

We all know that a lot of your customers rarely open their sunroofs, but depending on where they live they may get more use out of this extra hole in their roof than you think.

S E R V I C EThe key to a reliable sunroof is service, but probably not the type of service you are thinking of. Service on most Volvo sunroofs should be done at least once a year and should consist of checking function, cleaning out any loose debris, and lubrication.

S U N R O O F I S S U E S

I N N E R S U N R O O F S H A D E B I N D I N G A N D J A M M I N G 1 9 9 9 - 2 0 0 7 V 7 0 / X C 7 0 / S 8 0 / C 7 0 / S 6 0 / X C 9 0This is a common problem on older Volvos. The problem is caused by the plastic parts of the guide clips on the sides of the sunroof shade deteriorating and causing the shade to come out

of its tracks.

After the customer has been moving the shade back and forth often, the spring steel guide clips can bend and cause the shade to jam.

But that’s only the start of the trouble that these damaged shade guides can cause. The broken bits of plastic can fall into the sunroof tracks and damage parts. In some cases, the clips will bend and cause physical damage to the soft aluminum tracks.

If you get a Volvo in the shop with this problem, you should recommend replacement of the shade guides.

This is a fairly straightforward job. All the tools you will need are a Torx T25 socket, a Torx T20 driver, and a small flat tip screwdriver. Plastic Parts

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R E M O V I N G T H E S U N V I S O R /I N N E R C O V E RStart by putting the sunroof in the tilt position and removing the side blinds.

Next, remove the four screws holding the sunroof glass to the frame.

Have someone help you carefully remove the sunroof glass and lay it down somewhere safe. Next, use the switch to move the sunroof frame to the half open position.

Find the two T25 screws that attach the rear gutter assembly; use some blue tape to protect the paint on the roof while you remove the screws.

Use a flat tip screwdriver to gently pry off the rear gutter arms away from the frame.

Next, pull the rear gutter forward so you can access the four small T20 screws that hold the gutter channel to the frame.

When the four gutter screws are removed you can remove the gutter channel.

With the gutter removed, you can pull out the sunroof shade and replace the guide spring clips.

Have someone help you carefully remove the sunroof glass and lay it down somewhere safe.

T25 screws that attach the rear gutter assembly

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M O O N R O O F / S U N R O O F

Pry off the rear gutter arms away from the frame.

T20 screws that hold the

gutter channel to the frame

Remove the gutter channel.

Guide spring clips

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Place the sunroof shade on a very clean work area and remove the old spring clips. Use the new screws provided with the clips and install four new ones. The Volvo Genuine Part number is 9483170.

While the sunroof is apart, clean out the tracks and lubricate the moving parts.

Put it all back together in reverse order and recalibrate.

S U N R O O F W O N ’ T O P E R AT E W I T H U E M 0 0 0 4 C O D E S T O R E D 1 9 9 9 - 2 0 0 7 S 6 0 / V 7 0 / S 8 0 In some cases, the sunroof can stop responding to the switch when a car has a UEM 0004 active fault code stored. This can be caused by a faulty or internally shorted siren module.

This condition can cause the Upper Electronic Module (UEM), which is responsible for the alarm system and sunroof among other things, to shut down the operation of the sunroof if the siren module is malfunctioning.

The siren module has an internal battery that will go bad after about 10 years or so of service. This can cause the UEM to store the code UEM 0004.

If there are no other faults in the sunroof circuit, replacement of the siren module in the right front inner fender well will usually bring the sunroof back on line.

On some of these Volvos, you can remove fuse #38 in the passenger compartment (left of steering wheel). This will isolate the alarm siren module. Lock/unlock the car three times to reset. If the sunroof resumes operation then you know that the replacement of the siren module will fix the problem with the sunroof.

In most cases, Volvo sunroofs have blinds covering the left and right sides of the sunroof frames. You will have to remove them to access the frame screws for adjustment and removal of the sunroof glass. You should recommend new blinds if they are cracked or damaged, in order to prevent broken pieces from becoming jammed in the sunroof tracks.

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M O O N R O O F / S U N R O O F

S U N R O O F R AT T L E S 1 9 9 9 - 2 0 0 3 S 8 0 / S 6 0 / V 7 0 / X C 7 0 / X C 9 0Do you have a screw loose?

I guess all automotive technicians do, that’s why we do this job.

The fact is, loose sunroof frame screws are one of the most common problems seen in Volvo vehicles. This condition is very common and can cause rattling and misalignment of the sunroof glass. This is a minor problem but, if not dealt with, the misalignment can cause bigger problems like damage to the sunroof mechanism if the customer uses the sunroof a lot.

In most cases, you will have to remove the sunroof side blinds to access screws; this is best done with the sunroof in the vent position.

Check the condition of the blinds. If they are cracked or dam-aged, you should recommend that they be replaced because they can come apart and get jammed in the sunroof tracks.

You could just realign the glass and tighten the four 3 mm screws to 5 Nm. But Volvo recommends that you replace the four existing screws with Volvo Genuine Part number 973155 and use four new washers (Volvo Genuine Part number 120085).

If you go this route, start by moving the sunroof to the fully closed position. Apply a minimal amount of thread sealant

(P/N 1161075) to the bottom half of the threads (first 3 mm of the screw), and carefully start the screws to prevent cross threading.

The sunroof height adjustment is best done with the sunroof in the fully closed position. Loosen the screws a little and raise or lower the sunroof glass to achieve the desired position and retighten the screws to 5 Nm. After all four screws are started, torque the screws to 5 Nm. Do not over tighten as this may distort the guide rails.

S U N R O O F G L A S S H E I G H T A D J U S T M E N T When setting final closed height adjustment on the sunroof glass, you should use the following as a guideline.

Molding must be flush within one mm of the roofline when closed.

• Front edge: The upper section of the glass should be set at one mm under the roof panel (dimension A in “Figure 1”).

• Rear edge: The upper section of the glass molding must be flush with or one mm above the roof panel (dimension B in “Figure 1”).

C A L I B R AT I O N There will be many cases where recalibrating the sunroof module may be needed, such as after adjustments, after parts are replaced, or even when the battery has been disconnected.

Here is the calibration method that will work on most Volvo sunroofs from 1999-2008:

• The sunroof must be closed.• Turn ignition key to position 2.• Press the sunroof switch so that the sunroof is in the

tilt position.• Release the switch.• Press the switch (in the tilt position) again for at least

five seconds so that the sunroof flickers.• Release the switch.• The calibration is complete.

Note! If the sunroof has not moved to the correct position, carry out calibration again.

Hint: If the sunroof has still not moved to the correct position:

• Press the sunroof switch so that the sunroof moves to the rearmost position (completely open).

• Release the switch.• Press the switch (in the completely open position)

again for at least five seconds so that the sunroof switch flickers.

• Release the switch.• Close the sunroof and carry out calibration again. •

Figure 1

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The driver of this 2007 Volvo V50 brought the car into the shop with the sunroof stuck in the partially opened position.

The customer stated they used the sunroof on a regular basis and it was working normally up until last week when the driver attempted to close it and was unable to do so, leaving the sunroof partially open.

The service adviser was told by the customer right before the sunroof broke it had been opening and closing slower. It was after that the sunroof stopped short of closing fully, forcing the customer to seek repair as the sunroof would no longer move back or forth.

During the technician’s initial inspection of the car he found that when he activated the sunroof switch the motor would run but the sunroof glass would not move in any direction.

The service adviser got authorization from the customer to drop down the headliner to access the sunroof motor and inspect the sunroof cables and guides.

Because in most cases, if the motor is running and the sunroof glass is not moving on a Volvo, it can be caused by a stripped drive gear on the sunroof motor or stripped or broken sunroof cables.

In the case of this Volvo, it was a different story.

The technician removed the sun visors and the main dome light assembly that also houses the sunroof switch.

He then removed the trim seal around the sunroof opening. This allowed him access to the sunroof motor assembly mounting screws.

He removed the 3 screws and disconnected the motor’s wire connector.

When the technician pulled the motor from the cable track, the drive gear dropped out in two pieces.

The sunroof motor drive gear had split in half; this is not a common problem in Volvos.

So why did the gear break?

The cables looked undamaged and intact so it must have been caused by something jammed in the sunroof’s tracks, right?

But to examine the sunroof’s tracks and hardware the tech will have to put the glass in the vent, or at least the closed position, to access the four screws that hold the glass in place.

With the motor removed, the technician was able to push the glass backwards to the fully open position so he could inspect the tracks.

In the case of this Volvo, there was no sign of damage or debris in the sunroof tracks, so the technician manually closed the sunroof and was able to remove the four screws that hold the glass to the track assemblies.

After the glass was removed, the technician was able to closely inspect the sunroof mechanisms, he was also able to move the left and right cables back and forth to check for binding.

The cables moved smoothly and the tracks were fairly clear of debris except for the right side track which had some ground up rock chips lying in the channel.

The technician cleaned out the debris and lubed the tracks and hardware and then lined up the cables and guides into the vent position and reinstalled the glass.

The technician then installed the new sunroof motor assembly and reassembled the headliner and dome light assembly.

The technician then ran the sunroof through its paces, all ran well, so why did the gear snap?

Well, after interviewing the customer the technician found out that the customer regularly drives down a gravel road with the sunroof in the vent position.

So the theory is that a small rock popped into the sunroof rails and, when the customer tried to close the sticking sunroof multiple times, pop snap bang.

The moral of this story is to expect the unexpected. In this business you will see something new every day. •

Volvo Sunroof case study: 2007 V50 Wagon with sunroof stuck

in the 80 percent closed position

V O LV O T E C H T I P S 3 4

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