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STREETWiSE

2012/13 #02Recommended Retail Price US$

POCKETGUiDE (CAMBODIA) IN ASSOCIATION WITH TOTAL CAMBODGE

POCKETG

UiD

ECAM

BOD

iA STREETW

ISE #2 - STREET DiREC

TORY 2012/2013

9 7 8 9 9 9 6 3 5 4 1 1 3

Introduction

Diamond Gate Bridge

Welcome to the 2012/13 edition of StreetWise, the most up-to-date and detailed street directory to Phnom Penh. More a detailed re-think than a reprint, this new issue includes a guide to Siem Reap, updated maps that include several new streets, easier-to-read grid references and other indicators such as landmarks, markets and ATM locations that offer more efficient ways to negotiate your journey from A to B that even a taxi, moto and tuk-tuk driver can understand. And as always theres a comprehensive index with detailed grid references.

We also include feature articles that take a look at the capitals history, its ever-changing skyline, an attempt at making sense of the rules of the road, a crystal ball gaze at the citys future and the gradual spread of its suburbs. Written by expats who have lived here for many years, it is designed to give you the inside track on the capitals tangle of streets, lanes and alleyways.

A decade or so ago the majority of the citys streets were little more than dirt tracks piled high with rubbish. Not so today. New-mown grass lines many re-paved boulevards, flowerbeds add colour and variety, childrens playgrounds echo to the sound of childhood fun and upmarket restaurants punctuate lines of shophouse bars on Sisowath Quay overlooking the Tonle Sap. Satellite cities within the capital also offer glimpses of a glass and steel future that rests easy alongside elegant townhouses and villas built by French colonialists in the 1900s.

Produced with the assistance of Aruna Technology, Cambodias leading geomatics company, this second issue of StreetWise is the result of many months of planning, research and discovery to ensure our maps are not only easy to follow but also a practical guide to the Phnom Penh and Siem Reaps streets. This edition also marks the result of our collaboration with Total Cambodge, the countrys leading petroleum company.

While we have worked hard to make the information in this guide as accurate as possible, inevitably there will be errors and omissions. So please let us know of anything that needs changing for the next issue by e-mailing us at [email protected]

Contents3. Introduction

6. HowToUseThisBook

8. CambodiaRoadNetwork

14. BirthOfANation

16.WhatsInAName?

18. GettingAround

20. TheKnowledge

24. TwoWheelsOrFour?

28.LawAndOrder

30. SuburbanShakedown

32. BuildingANewTomorrow

34. Khans,Sangkats&PostCodes

36. SurvivalTips

37. GreaterPhnomPenhMap

38.MasterMapofPhnomPenh

40.Map1 41.Map2

42.Map3 43.Map4

44.Map5 45.Map6

46.Map7 47.Map8

48.Map9 49.Map10

50.Map11 51.Map12

52.Map13 53.Map14

54.Map15 55.Map16

56.Map17 57.Map18

58.Map19 59.Map20

60.Map21 61.Map22

62.Map23 63.Map24

64.Map25 65.Map26

66.Map27 67.Map28

68.Map29 69.Map30

70. PhnomPenhIndex

82. IntroSiemReap

84. GreaterSiemReapMap

85. TemplesMap

88.MasterMapofSiemReap

90.Map1 91.Map2

92.Map3 93.Map4

94.Map5 95.Map6

96.Map7 97.Map8

98.SiemReapIndex

100.KhmerGlossary

102.MapIcons&Legends

654321

987 1110 12

13 14 16 17 1815

23 24

25

22212019

3029282726

40 41 42 43 44 45

46 47 48 49 50 51

52 53 54 55 56 57`

58 59 60 61 62 63

64 65 66 67 68 69

A

B E

To Order more copies of Streetwise call 023 210 407

Here is a brief overview of the various different elements

of the guide, that we hope will help you find your way around Phnom

Penh more easily than before.

A CONTENTS The contents page is, as you would expect, the first place to look to help you to navigate the guide. Its pretty self-explanatory. There are also references here to the Phnom Penh and Siem Reap Master Maps on pages 38-39 and 88-89.

B NARRATIVE The 20-page commentary has been written by long-term Phnom Penh residents who know their way around the city. They have put together a brief history of Phnom Penh and its streets, tips for getting around, an overview of the different modes of transport, a virtual taxi ride through selected areas and places of interest, an introduction to the rules of the road and a summary of what the town planners have in store for the capitals future. Theres also a brief introduction to Siem Reap on pages 82-83.

C MAIN MAPS The master maps on pages 38-39 and 88-89 are designed to ensure you get your bearings, especially if youre new to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There are also smaller-scale maps showing the main trunk roads in and out of the Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, as well as a map showing the main provincial roads through-out the entire country (see pages 8-9).

How To Use This Book

6

D GRID MAPS We have divided Phnom Penh into 30 maps (and Siem Reap into 8) at approximately 1:10,000 scale, so 1cm relates to about 100 metres. Each page is further divided into six numbered and lettered grids, with 180 grids for Phnom Penh and 48 for Siem Reap. Main roads are shown in yellow, secondary roads in white and tertiary roads (dirt tracks and other unsealed thoroughfares) as dotted lines. Please note, the maps are numbered in RED in the top corner from 1 to 30.

E LOCAL KNOWLEDGE Some facts, hints and tips to help you understand the city and make it easier for you to get from A to B.

F ICONS These represent banks, schools, hospitals, petrol sta-tions, markets, traffic lights and so forth. We believe they are self-explanatory, although please note that for banks we have used # whereas for freestanding ATMs we have used # See page 102 for details.

G INDEX Street names and numbers plus where to find government offices, other public buildings, embassies, banks, airline offices, markets, hospitals, schools, universities, landmarks and other places of interest. The index lists the map number not the page number and gives precise grid references.

KHMER GLOSSARY Speaking some Khmer can be a great help, especially if you are trying to find your way around an unfa-miliar city. On page 100 youll find a few words and phrases to get you started and endear you to the local Khmers.

SURVIVAL TIPSWhether youre walking, riding a motorcycle or driving a car, the streets of Cambodia require a mixture of forethought, skill and some good luck. Here are a few things to keep in mind that should ensure your safety.

We hope you will find the information in the guide helpful - please give us your feedback, comments and suggestions for how we can

improve future issues, by email at:

[email protected]

C

D E

F

G

STREET WiSE

7

Cambodia Road Network

NorthSouth

THAILAND

VIETNAM

GULF OF THAILAND

Poipet

Duan Lem

Pailin

Koh Kong

Prek Chak

Phnom Den

Kaam Samnor

OSmach Anlong Veng

8

Cambodian Road Distance Chart

LAOS

VIETNAM

Cambodias roads have been upgraded significantly in recent years and most of the

highways connecting the main provincial towns are in good condition. These are indicated in red on the map (though the northern part of

Road 141 in Rattanakiri is in poor shape). Expect occasional delays due to road works and

if youre travelling in the rainy season check road conditions first in case of flooding.

Bavet

Trapeang Phlong

O YadaoDom Kralor

STREET WiSE

International Border Crossings

PHNOM PENHSECTION

13

40 years as armies from forces drawn from all points of the compass chased him from other capitals such as Srei Santhor to Pursat, Lovek and Lavear Em to Udong.The final move took place in 1863, after France took the

country under its protective wing. Within three years and during the reign of King Norodom I, Phnom Penh became the seat of government and a royal palace was built to house his court and family. The city was at peace and its royal family, aristocrats and

rich merchants set about enjoying their new lives under French rule. The ramshackle collection of wooden buildings where most of the city lived and worked were an eyesore, but one that was quickly removed by a fire in May 1894 that razed a lot of it to the ground. Its replacement by stone buildings and the establishment of Phnom Penh as the de facto capital marked a sea change in its destiny. It oozed wealth and people from the countryside heard

of the city and its streets paved with gold and swelled its population to 50,000 towards the end of the 1890s. To accommodate the growing population, much of the inner-citys wetlands were drained to reclaim vast tracts of land to house them. Seemingly overnight the city stretched from the French Quarter just south of Wat Phnom and south to todays Sihanouk Bvd. In short order the riverside village was transformed into a thriving community with hotels, schools, prisons, barracks, banks, offices of public works, law courts and a rudimentary health care regimen. Its broad avenues and gardens were a tribute to French town plan-ning; its grand colonial villas were architecture at its most elegant and beautiful. Indeed, over the next four decades growth and modernity

were its watchwords with the building of a railway line to Sihanoukville and Battambang and the Pochentong Inter-national airport. By the 1930s the citys canals had been turned into garden boulevards and colourful, manicured parks brightened the cityscape. As the population grew (109,000 in 1939) the city continued to expand, mostly westward, and more wetlands were drained. The Boeung Deco lake was filled and the distinctive Art

Deco Central Market (Phsar Thmei) built on the reclaimed land. That same year the cyclopousse, the bicycle rickshaw or cyclo, was introduced on to the citys streets. In total the

It's hard to imagine that this busy bustling, prosperous capital was

ever a rickety collection of shacks hugging the bank of the Tonle Sap.

Given its pivotal status in the affairs of southeast Asia today, it comes as something of a surprise to discover that the quay was its only focus and its population mostly comprised riv-erboat captains, stevedores and chandlers. Once known as the Pearl of Asia, the capitals location on the confluence of the Mekong, Sap and Bassac made it a thriving trading post. How the city got its name divides opinion, but many

prefer the more romantic and folkloric version from 1371 of how Daun (Grandma) Penh was gathering firewood alongside the river when she saw and retrieved a floating koki tree from the water. Inside the tree she found four Buddha statues and one of Vishnu. She took the discovery as a divine blessing and a sign that a Khmer capital would be built there, so she set about ordering the construction of a small hill with a shrine to house the statues. The hill (phnom) later took on the name of its founder (Penh), and the city took its name from the area around it. For several centuries Khmer kings enjoyed absolute and

merciless power over the region from about AD900. Cen-tred near Siem Reap, the empires tentacles stretched across much of mainland southeast Asia. But by the 15th century the kingdom was in political and territorial decline and defending itself against armed and regular incursions by the god kings of Ayudhaya in the west. Rather than fight a losing battle, King Ponhea Yat and his

armies moved to Phnom Penh giving the widows prophecy the royal seal of approval, which in turn heralded the coun-trys shift away from a predominantly rural and agrarian economy to a more global trade and commerce-orientated future. It was this economic shift that perhaps persuaded the king to establish Phnom Penh as the countrys capital by building several temples and laying out the town along moats and rivers. But his love affair with the city lasted only

Birth Of A Nation

14

changes earned Phnom Penh the compliment of being the most beautiful city in French Indochina. Independence from France in 1954 heralded a period of

urban and commercial development and the beginning of distinctive New Khmer Architecture, reflected in landmark structures such as the Independence Monument and Chak-tomuk theatre designed by Vann Molyvann. Factories, roads, power plants, apartments, markets, and Chinese shophouses were built and the city looked forward to renewed prosper-ity. It was a false dawn. Beyond the comfortable enclaves of political power in the capital, insurrection was brewing in the countryside as scores of factions brought about the coup of 1970 and Cambodias descent into civil war between the

government and the communist Khmer Rouge (KR). By 1973, Phnom Penh was swollen with refugees and

in 1974 the city was under siege and eventually cut off, falling on April 17, 1975. Three days later the KR ordered its evacuation. Though some workers remained in Phnom Penh, the city was essentially a ghost town until its conquer-ors were driven from the city by their former Vietnamese allies in January 1979. After many years of being well and truly off the tourist

map, the country has became an adventure destination and Phnom Penh saw the beginning of a period of economic and urban development that has continued at an accelerat-ing rate to this day. n

STREET WiSESTREET WiSE

15

dent? Well, our old friend St 128 nearly has. Known now as Kampuchea Krom, it was called Cambodia-Vietnam Friend-ship St when the Vietnamese were in charge and in the days of the French it was simply the Road to the Annamite (Vietnamese) cemetery. One commendable change is that St 96 has been named Christopher Howes after the gallant English de-miner who was abducted with Houn Hourth, his interpreter, and mur-dered by the Khmer Rouge in 1996.One assumes there

was a theory behind the naming of streets and one can sym-pathise with a de-sire for reclassifica-

tion when the French stopped protecting Cambodia in 1953 and left behind Field Marshal Petain [St 86].Again one can un-

derstand how every-thing had to be new under Sihanouk in the 1960s, but what was going on in whose mind when the numbers were given out? Its almost as if the person behind the conundrum was given a mixed bag of numbers akin to lottery tablets and then asked to throw them on a map of the city. Where they landed was the number of the street, irrespec-

tive of its neighbourhoods location. I jest, but sometimes you get the feeling that theres some evil genius behind the numerology of the street system that constantly conspires to make you late for every appointment.It is not as if street numbers are the only problem in find-

ing your way around. Try the house numbers. Many single dwellings have two numbers and many multiple dwellings

Whats In A Name?It would make a good

question in any pub quiz night: which

capital city has streets named after Charles de Gaulle, Mao Tse Toung,

Josep Brotz Tito, Pasteur, Czechoslovakia, France,

Yugoslavia and the Polish Republic?

Any long-term Phnom Penh resident would know, but strangers to the city would be nonplussed. However, that is not to say we couldnt play an enjoyable variant in Phnom Penh of what were they called before or how far apart: excellent indoor games for those rainy season evenings. The first is not too hard. The Russian Boulevard, or more

correctly Confederation de la Russie, was of course called USSR but the Quais Verneville and Piquet have over the years become the prosaic St 106 and St 108 respectively and nobody knows them as Treiyani and Oknha Plong any-more. Some are aware that Sothearos was Lenin so to speak and Norodom spent some time being Tou Samouth after the original name of Boulevard Doudart de Lagre was overturned along with all the other luminaries of the French Protectorate. The one exception is Pasteur, which has the distinction of being the only survivor and is still used by Phnompenhoises.The thing about Phnom Penh street names is that they

are fun for every purpose except the obvious identify-ing where you are or where you are going. The names, however, are as nothing to the problems of street numbers. Here the rule is that, in the main, odd numbers run north south (with the street numbers increasing as you head west) and evens east west (increasing as you head south). With the exception of the stretch of Mao Tse Toung [245] to the west of its junction with Norodom, this tenet applies reasonably well to most of central Phnom Penh, aside from the diagonal streets to the southwest of Olympic Stadium.Could a street name or number cause a diplomatic inci-

16

STREET WiSEPerhaps the whole matter is best summed up by a walk

along the riverfront. Sisowath Quay named after the king who reigned from 1904-27 was, until the 1970s, a strip of three- and four-storey shophouses linked to the capitals vital role as a thriving port capable of accommodating ves-sels of 6,000 tons. The pavements were a bustle of ships chandlers selling their wares and coils of tarred rope, provi-sions stores and shipping agents offices supplying ships bo-suns and galleys. There was also a scattering of cheap diners and several coffin makers, two of which survive to this day.Those rough and ready days, described by Henri Mouhout,

the French explorer who rediscovered Angkor, as a long and dirty floating town, gave it the unruly and slightly shady look of a bazaar. The years have been good to the quay. Today it is a chi-chi and mostly fashionable line of modern glass and steel restaurants and bars. As is the case of so many ribbon developments in cities

around the first and third world, the street where they trade and live has had the habit of changing its name according to political

whim, fashion and national pride. So over the years the quay has been Karl Marx, then the Grand Rue before it was christened with the royal hand-me-down name.Not that the name changes mean a great deal to

the citys motodops and tuk-tuk drivers, who wisely follow the code of street numbers rather than names that seem to change with the weather, or rely on local landmarks to find their way around.

Few people, even those who have lived here a long time, know the actual designation of this most important thor-oughfare in Phnom Penh. But yes, logic at last. You have probably guessed it . . . it is St No 1. And finally, after 26 years in power Samdech Akka Moha

Sena Padie Techo Hun Sen is to have a new road named after him. One of the biggest infrastructure developments of recent years, the 60 metre wide, 9km road will link St 271 to National Road 2 at Ta Khmao. n

have one, but never make the mistake of thinking any street has any house number that is exclusive to one location. Take St 310 for example, which has at least two house number 39s. Or St 178 where the house numbers increase as you head west from the river, then mysteriously begin at number one again as you cross Norodom Bvd.To counteract this everyday confusion, there are plans afoot

for the city fathers to bring rationalisation to irritation and revise house numbering in the

capital. We await the results with more than a little interest (or is that scepticism?). The other parlour game one can enjoy playing is how

far apart? It relies on the common mistake of think-ing that street numbers are adjacent to one another be-cause they are numerologically close. Take St 516 and St 514 which, being even numbers, you might assume were close to one another. According to GPS, however, they are 5.4km apart by road, which is a long ride in a tuk-tuk if you are leaving one location and looking for a restaurant in the other.

Trunk roads connecting the capital to the provinces start with National Road 1, which runs from the Monivong bridge via the Neak Loung ferry to the Vietnamese border at Bavet. Road numbers increase as you head clockwise, so 2 takes you south to Takeo and on to Phnom Den, 3 and 4 to Kampot and Sihanoukville in the southwest, 5 and 6 to Battambang, Siem Reap and Poipet on the Thai border in the northwest, with 7 starting at Skun and leading to Stung Treng and the Lao border in the north.

Whats In A Name?

17

Getting Aroundthe Tonle Sap is generally busy from dusk to about 10pm, particularly where the road narrows just to the north of St 154. Streets 13 and 19, running parallel to the west, are often less congested and may offer a swifter route.Charles de Gaulle Boulevard, running from east to south-

west, is the main link to the southern side of the city from Central Market and gets congested at the Tchechoslova-quie/Sihanouk intersections. It turns into Monireth Bvd (St

First there were oxen, handcarts and rickshaws,

then there were tanks and today the streets of Phnom Penh, which were never intended for 4x4s and utes, are now often jammed with vehicles.

Over-capacity has been a constant headache for the citys planners and modernisation, right down to the paving of main thoroughfares such as Sisowath Quay, traffic lights at major intersections and central dividers to try and persuade drivers to stay on their side of the road may have helped, but the accident rate continues to rise and traffic jams are an everyday occurrence. On exceptionally wet and thus bad traffic days its pos-

sible for car and ute drivers to sit in a jam for up to two hours. Moto drivers are luckier because they can join the kerb and pavements to avoid snarl-ups.Most main boulevards will have some degree of conges-

tion during the rush hours of 7-8am and 5-6pm with the occasional noon fiasco of people trying to get home for lunch and a snooze. So a few facts about the main thor-oughfares may save you a lot of time and trouble.Monivong Boulevard, the citys main artery, between Rus-

sian and Sihanouk boulevards is renowned for having spec-tacular congestion during these rush hour periods. Sihanouk and Mao Tse Toung, meanwhile, are consistently busy and prone to jams during rush hours, although the former is the worse, especially near the Lucky supermarket to the east of Monivong. The recent addition of a fence dividing the road between St 51 and 63 has done little to help the situation.Sothearos Boulevard, which takes over from Mao Tse

Toung to the east of its intersection with Norodom, is one of the best ways to reach the riverside coming from the south or Sihanouk Boulevard, though it tends to clog up to the north of Sihanouk especially in the early evenings when the local freshies appear in hordes to watch the lights and fountains at Wat Botum Gardens. Sisowath Quay on

217) at the Sihanouk/Nehru junction and is often clogged again at the Mao Tse-Toung and Steung Meanchey intersections.The Stung Meanchey bridge intersection

on St 271, also called RCAF Boulevard, is best avoided between 6.30-8am, 11am-12.30pm and 5-6.30pm. The Dike Road as locals call it (or Upper Road in Khmer), is the best link from the Monivong Bridge in the east as it circles the far western edge of the city all the way to Toul Kork in the north. Some of the worst areas for congestion are near the Mer-maid roundabout on St 163 where St 484 fuses into the Dike Road.Avoiding jams can be difficult because many side streets

are well-established and narrow commuter rat runs. Just about every main road in Phnom Penh has a parallel side road, but their existence doesnt guarantee quicker journey times unless youre on a moto. Two such streets currently to be careful of are 63 and 51, as they are both one-way

18

U-turn on to the bridge approach road to cross the Bassac. One flyover that appears to have some thought behind

it, if only for visiting dignitaries with flights to catch, is the one being built on the road to the airport that should avoid congestion at the complex traffic light junction of Russian Boulevard and St 271.Although the Japanese have completed the flood prevention

engineering work they started several years ago, the only ap-parent sign of change is that the flooded streets are now sev-eral blocks west leaving Sisowath Quay almost dry as a bone.Speaking of the quay, the no parking initiative along its

length has succeeded in its safety first and last objective of making it a safer road to cross, particularly the social sec-tion from the Chaktomuk Theatre to the port. Parking bays have also been marked out adjacent to some of the citys markets and main shopping streets, which is good for the official and unofficial parking attendants who collect modest fees for their vigorous arm waving and guarding of prime vehicular real estate. Can parking meters be far behind since a city ordnance decreed that all new buildings had to ac-commodate significant parking spaces?Traffic conditions are also affected by national holidays,

sometimes for the better at other times for the worse. During Khmer New Year in mid-April and Pchum Benh in Septem-ber the city empties and provides a taste of how things were pre-1997. The Water Festival (Bon Om Tuk) in November, however, attracts spectators from all over the country and the population of the city can effectively more than double for several days. Throughout the festival, Sisowath Quay is blocked off to

civilian traffic from the roundabout at the end of Hun Sen Park to roughly Wat Phnom and in some years all the way to St 70 at the Japanese Bridge. Evenings directly after the last races, which usually end at about sunset, are absolutely the worst time to be on the roads anywhere near the river-front. But, hey, walkings good for you isnt it? n

affairs north of Sihanouk Bvd: 63 runs to the north, 51 runs to the south and the former is prone to relatively heavy and slow-moving traffic. Note also that many drivers ignore the one-way markers and no-entry signs, so dont be too surprised if you have to move out of the way for an SUV hurtling towards you from the wrong direction (especially after dark when there are fewer police to maintain order).If your car and temper overheat in the jam, never fear, a

monsoon downpour is never far away dur-ing certain months of the year, especially be-tween May and October. After heavy rains the deluge swamps sections of Sihanouk between the Monireth intersection and Tep Phan (St 182). Other sections of streets to avoid are 163 as it runs in front of the Rus-

sian Market, Mao Tse-Toung between 199 and Monireth, Sothearos in front of the royal palace, 136 between Noro-

dom and 19, 178 between 19 and Sothearos, Sihanouk around the Olympic Stadium and the road around Wat Phnom and north to the Tied Gun monument. Difficult to avoid but laughable in terms of its execution, the

flyover at Kbal Thnai Circle (at the southern end of Norodom) means that drivers heading to Vietnam across the Monivong Bridge now have to make a 50-or-so-metre diversion east to

Many of the citys main roads (Monivong, Sihanouk and Mao Tse-Tung among others) now have central barriers, often for a kilometre or more and usually breaking only at major intersections. These make left turns from side streets impractical unless you want to risk a confrontation with the traffic police, and U-turns at the intersections are generally forbidden. A little time planning your route before you leave can save you time, money and aggravation.

STREET WiSE

19

The Knowledgecolonial buildings whose lineage dates back to the 1890s. Southeast of the Wat is a large childrens playground

with a jungle gym, swings and slides. One of only three in Phnom Penh (the other two being on Chruoy Changvar peninsula and near the Cambodia-Vietnam monument).

A licensed cab driver in London is two things to all men: verbose in his

political opinion, which is largely gleaned from a diet of right-wing news-

papers, and a seasoned guide around the capital.

Known as the Knowledge, the latter ability is the result of up to four years on the citys streets learning off by heart the 320 designated routes within six miles of Charing Cross station, taking in the places of interest and landmarks on and around the routes. Pass that test and the graduate gets a licence number, a green lapel badge and a captive audi-ence on his or her back seats. So to save you the trouble of traversing all of Phnom Penhs highways, byways and geographical landmarks, sit back, enjoy the ride and share some of the capitals secrets with a seasoned campaigner who has the Knowledge.The most obvious place to start is Wat Phnom, birthplace

of the city after a story that a wealthy widow named Penh found four Buddha statues in a tree floating on the Tonle Sap and built the hill and Wat to house them. Since then it has been expanded to include spirit shrines, a royal stupa and statuary plus a gang of wild monkeys (be careful, they bite) and the home of an elephant called Sambo (who doesnt). It costs $1 for foreigners to visit the Wat.At its southern base is a flower clock donated by China

at the turn of the century, which not only tells the time but also is a geographical landmark. Two hundred kilo-metres to Phnom Penh means youre 200 clicks from the centre of the Wat Phnom clock. Its park is a great place to people watch but, be warned, at night its darker side comes out. Thats also the time the fruit bats leave their branches in nearby bitter gourd trees and head out to hunt for moths in the night sky over the city. Within a stones throw of Daun Penhs hill the post office domi-nates a square of beautiful and grand turn-of-the-century

Royal Palace

Moving past the restaurants and massage parlours on the north side theres a clutch of medical facilities includ-ing the National Maternal and Child Health Centre and the Kantha Bopha hospital, which provides free medical care to Cambodian children.Heading south is the Australian ambassadors resi-

dence in what used to be the French colonial military commanders headquarters. Going west are several top hotels, while across from the former is the American em-bassy. Going east towards the river, you come out at the embarkation point for the Siem Reap, Stung Treng and Kra-tie ferries. You are now on Sisowath Quay, which really is (and was) Phnom Penhs number one street. It was the first to be numbered in 1885 when it was the only road through the riverside village and now just about every visitor heads there on arrival and with good reason. In recent years a Night Market (Fri through Sun) has become a gathering place for expats, travellers and young locals eating, brows-ing and occasionally bopping to a live band. Moving on up the quay there is a plethora of cafes, bars

and restaurants pandering to every taste from happy piz-zas to foie gras and bacon and eggs, from local beer to exotic cocktails. With some notable exceptions, they share

20

The Knowledgelooks amiably at the other across Sisowath, whose colour-ful array of national flags in (almost) alphabetical order decorates the quay from the palace square to St 154. The north end of the quay is dominated by the Royal Palace complex which houses regal treasures from early times set in exquisite gardens. Just around the bend to the north is the rather architecturally jarring and circular Chaktomuk Theatre, which used to be a cinema and now puts on music and dance eventsMost visitors to the city stop off for a drink at the FCC,

which is where St 178 starts its journey into Phnom Penhs heartland. Famous for art, the streets dominating feature is the National Museum and its position overlooking an open space where the royal ploughing celebration is held. To the north of this urban field are several restaurants and galleries showing modern art by Cambodian painters.However, 178 soon fills up with shophouses that are

less gallery than storage space for vast numbers of naive depictions in oil on canvas of Angkor Wat, Apsaras and Bayon faces in garish colours. Cross St 19 and you find the sculpture section where apprentices chip at blocks of stone turning out Buddhas and elephants too big for tourists to take home and lacking the vitality that is exhibited in the

masterpieces of Khmer sculpture in the National Museum.Running parallel a few blocks south

is St 240, which goes from the river, past the old Assembly building and the Royal Elephant House all the way out to the Childrens Hospital. Perhaps the fact that it was blocked off for many years as it passed through the com-

pound of the old American embassy just west of St 51 has left it with a divided feel, but one short section is famous among barangs for the wide range of unCambodian things you can buy.

certain similarities: shophouse bars with wicker chairs on the pavement and an inordinate number of tuk-tuk drivers offering various services to tour-ists. To the east is the Tonle Sap, which has recently undergone a two-year flood prevention and drainage improvement upgrade. The city fathers have done the right thing and re-planted the formal riverside gardens where Cambodians like to gather in the evenings. Each tribe

STREET WiSE

Newcomers to the city often complain that the streets look the same and there is little in the way of street signposts. Stop and look around, though, and there are plenty of indicators such as statues and monuments. Learn the names of a few landmarks in English and Khmer and you will quickly feel at home. If youre staying at a hotel, take one of its business cards with you and remember a landmark or two en route in case you get lost and need help getting back to base.

Independence Monument

Wat Phnom

Nagaworld

21

The Knowledge (continued)Among the boutiques, here too are the pastry, bread,

cheese and fruit sellers where those little expatriate essen-tials can be found. It has a smattering of bars and restau-rants and also two modern, well-stocked wine shops both just a stones throw from the splendid British ambassadors residence. Shops in 240 sell everything that people give as presents, plus its where you can sip a glass of sauternes while you have a picture framed next door.Time now to retrace your

steps to Monivong Bvd: the great divide. Effectively, it runs the length of the city from the slew of ironmongers near the Old Stadium and Tied Gun monument in the north to the Monivong bridge in the south. To the east is the Phnom Penh westerners use, to the west is a whole other city that still leads a very Oriental life.At the northern end the French embassy dominates an

ever-diminishing number of colonial townhouses, but once south past the City Hall and Raffles Hotel Le Royal, moder-nity takes over. Canadia Banks great tower the first sky-scraper in Phnom Penh marks the start of 6km of shops clustered by merchandise. To start with the buildings are tall and redolent of the 1960s, but once over Sihanouk Bvd the scale diminishes, although a 42-storey block is rising on the corner. Down both sides are supermarkets, electricians, car sales lots, mattress makers and stationers interspersed with cheap local eateries. The barrier down the middle puts paid to U-turns, but in a sense it is where East meets West and the Chinese live fish restaurants meet KFC.Going south to the China hospital you come to St 278, a

clever little chameleon of a street that in the past few years has radically changed its image and done itself up rather well. Removing the crematorium at Wat Lanka on its east-ern end has certainly helped and 278 is now more a vil-lage than a street. The short stretch between St 51 and 57, known locally as the Golden Mile, spills out and round its corners with bars, inexpensive hotels and a smattering of souvenir shops. The restaurants may be small but the chaos is its charm and the variety its attraction. The bars are less anonymous than the riverside and the clientele tends to

be made up as much of barangs who have made Phnom Penh their home as of visitors staying in the nearby hotels.Dominating the skyline to the east and sitting in the

centre of the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk boule-vards, the Independence Monument is not only at the heart of the city but close to the nations heart. Designed by Vann Molyvann and inaugurated in 1962, its lotus shape is simi-lar to stupas at Angkor Wat and other historical sites. The

focus of national celebrations, it marks the day Cambodia freed itself of its occupiers,

which is celebrated every year on November 9 when a ceremonial flame on a central interior pedestal is often lit by a royal or high official. In contrast, poor old St 57 is losing its impor-

tance. When Cambodia was in its post-conflict phase it, and the surrounding streets, were colloquially re-ferred to as NGO-land, housing the head offices of the great and the good non-governmental organisations in spa-cious villas built during the Sangkum Reastr Niyum era of 1955-69. In the early 1990s, when UNTAC was in charge, the houses around 57 were only affordable by NGOs with their white Toyota pick-ups and Land Cruisers. Now many of the mansions have returned to private ownership and black Lexuses replaced the white Land Cruisers.St 57 has always been popular with foreigners, though

where there were once small wooden houses there are now 10-storey apartment blocks, which in turn have spawned

Council of Ministers

Dreamland

22

Learning the names and locations of the main markets should help you find your way around, especially if you need to ask directions, because most local people use them as landmarks. Market is phsar in Khmer and is often followed by the name of the district though, of course, there are excep-tions. And dont confuse Phsar Thmei (literally New Market but known in English as Central Market) with its lesser cousin Phsar Kandal (literally Central Market).

a rash of convenience corner stores. With the diminishing power of the NGOs, St 57 has gone back to the future.A mere stones throw from the Independence Monument,

St 51 has never been elevated to boulevard status like the parallel thoroughfares of Norodom and Monivong, yet it is a street with a name that is used: Rue Pasteur. In a city full of pharmacists and bacteria alike it is only fair that great chemists should be remembered by this long and charming

road which runs from Wat Phnom almost to Mao Tse Tung Bvd in the south, ending at the eastern edge of Boeung Keng Kang market.Much of it is tree-lined, but not its most famous stretch

between St 118 and 174 which is one of the centres of Phnom Penh nightlife boasting the citys only surviving bar

from UNTAC days, its most (in)famous disco and a hotel bar that is open 24/7. This part of 51 is noisy, brash and fun at night a far cry from its southern end where the UN still has its headquarters in the leafy suburb of Boeung Keng Kang. Down its first 2km, until the junction with Siha-nouk, Pasteur is one-way going south but few take notice, especially after dark.Monumentally speaking, the Phnom Penh version of

a London cabbys Knowledge is a hotch-potch of many things, from the sublime to the faintly ridiculous. Take the vividly painted crocodile and maiden on the roundabout that conjoins Tchecoslovaquie, Charles de Gaulle and Monireth Bvd between the Olympic stadium and Orussei Market. Leu Kong Hing, the maiden a powerful symbol of Khmer nationalism, arts and beauty is portrayed creating the Earth by squeezing drops of pure water from her hair.From mythology to noble aspiration, the twisted gun at

the roundabout near the French embassy is a monument to disarmament after the 1997 coup, but is now more readily seen as a symbol of the governments victory over excessive handgun useage. On Sothearos and beyond the light and music fountains at weekends is the solidarity monument linking Cambodia and Vietnam in a stern granite assem-blage of figures. The monument comes into its own on Jan-uary 7, Liberation Day, which is dedicated to those who lost their lives fighting the Khmer Rouge and to national rebirth. The lone mermaids love/hate figure, Hanuman the monkey god, is absent from her monument in front of the Russian market, but it is the Phoenix monument on Sothearos that best represents the regeneration of Phnom Penh and is a hopeful token of great blessing and prosperity for the capital. Nowhere is this more evident than in the towering ambi-

tion displayed for the future of Koh Pich (Diamond Island). Plans for its future are a remarkable step in the right direc-tion of thoughtful town planning and management, plus a funfair for all the family. n

STREET WiSE

Railway Station

Olympic Stadium

23

Two Wheels Or Four? The only thing wrong

with walking as a way of getting around Phnom Penh is that each time you cross the road youare pitting

yourself against projectiles driven by

people who regard pedestrians as targets.

Pedestrians can be made to feel like they are obstructions They can be made to feel like obstructions as pavements increasingly become car and moped parking spaces. Thats why, anytime after sunrise, the riverfront and other open spaces around the city are jam- packed with walkers avoiding the morning rush-hour traffic. Which is a shame, because walking pace is a good speed to take in some of the citys splen-dour, such as the intricate carvings around the walls of the royal palace, Parisian-style rooftop studios and cupolas, hand-painted signs for dentists, tailors and cobblers and fragrant terraces covered in trailing vines and flowers.Greater mobility, though, is the ambition of the majority

all over the world. Cambodias capital has few inclines to sap the strength of legs and lungs and an upright posture, clear signals and stoic bloody mindedness can make even the shiniest Hummer yield to a cyclist. From the health-conscious to teachers, journalists to non-gov-ernmental organisation volunteers, two wheels are good and ecologically sound.If youre piloting wheeled ground transport faster than

walking pace, a helmet and face mask are vital, gloves, el-bow and knee pads optional and a sturdy padlocks a must. Bicycles are readily available in the city, with secondhand models for sale from about $30, new ones with multiple

gears from about $100 or you can rent an upright with basket for about $1-1.50 a day. New bikes can be found at several cycle shops on St 182 near Orussei Market and on Kampuchea Krom Bvd (St 128) west of Mao Tse Toung.

There are also vari-ous online forums (such as the Expatri-ate Advisory Service) on which second-hand models are oc-casionally advertised for sale. DIY transportation, though, can wear you down and raise your tantrum temperature after a run of close shaves with seemingly blind car driv-ers. So you become the willing meal ticket for the cyclo, motodop and tuk-tuk hordes that lay in wait outside hotels, shopping centres and on street corners.Of all the modes of transport invented over the centuries,

the cyclo is one of the simplest: a saddle, pedals and a chain, a rudimentary handbrake and a basket on the front thats large enough to carry a family of five plus maybe a dead animal and a sack of rice. No smelly exhaust fumes and minimal road occupancy, but at speeds only a few

24

Dont assume that all moto, tuk-tuk and cyclo drivers know their way around, because many have recently arrived from the provinces and have little knowledge of the city. Few Cambodians can read maps and their English varies enormously, so learning a few words of Khmer can be a great help see the glossary on page 101 for a few words and phrases. Always keep a few dollar bills and 1,000 riel notes handy, because your driver will rarely be able to change a large bill.

paces faster than a quick walk. They are a relaxing way to travel the city but only for those with time on their hands, and are best suited to shorter journeys.Unfortunately their drivers earn barely enough to be attached

to the food chain and, because they literally live in their vehi-cles, are unfair game for thieves. One positive aspect of prog-ress for cyclo pilots was the setting up in 1997 of the Cyclo Centre. Founded as a non-governmental organisation, its a

haircutnbrush-up headquarters for its 1,500 or so mem-bers, who are taught some basic English directional com-mands from staff who also take bookings.People power to brake horsepower comes at a price, so

the cost of getting around the city will always go up not down. Motodops (mostly 110cc motorcycle taxis) include gofors for hotels and guesthouses, motorcycle owners intent on earning a supplementary income and off-duty cops. They

are generally recognisable by their baseball caps, though thankfully most of them are now wearing helmets thanks to stricter en-forcement of the citys traffic laws.Agree a fee before you turn a wheel and its

carry some riel rather than dollars, as many motodops have little in the way of change. A one-minute journey tends to cost 1,000 riel, a slightly longer two- to three-minute trip will be 1,500 and a longer ride, such as from the Russian Market to the riverfront, about 4,000 ($1). Fares tend to rise after sunset and when travelling home late at night expect to pay at least $1, depending on the distance involved.Knowing where youre going is a help, be-

cause its not unusual for motodops to take the long way round, especially if theyre not entirely sure where you want to go. Its also worth bearing in mind that you should give directions via landmarks, in Khmer if possible, because map-reading skills are not a local speciality. Most motodops will tell you that yes, of course, they understand where you want to go even if they have no idea, so dont be entirely surprised if they hurtle off in the wrong direction.If youre just visiting, try to use a motodop who is recom-

mended by your hotel or guesthouse, especially at night. Unpleasant incidents are thankfully uncommon, but jump-ing on the back of an unfamiliar motorcycle in an alien city obviously carries certain risks.

STREET WiSE

25

Two Wheels Or Four? (continued) probably own, if youre a short-stay visitor its rent (crash helmets and safety gear of your choosing included in the price) the bike and the best get-out-of-trouble health insur-ance you can afford. All you need is a passport (yours), drivers licence, a cash deposit and, in some cases, com-pulsory insurance for valuable machines. Be sure to provide

your own padlock as those provided by the rental companies arent always as

secure as you hoped for. Pricewise, expect to pay at least $2 a day for small bikes and from $10-$25 a day for a 250cc dirt bike, depending on its age and condition.Buying and running a motorbike, meanwhile, is all about

clearing an assault course of bureaucratic hurdles. As with most things paperwork here, when you buy your bike get the guys in the showroom/garage to help with the registra-tion, tax, insurance and legal requirements such as wing

Tuk-tuk drivers are near the top of the public transport food chain and often act in hand-biting ways that make them the equivalent of New York and London cabbies. It is vital that you fix a price for a specific journey and reckon to agree to pay more if you deviate from your chosen route and destination. Short trips usually cost about a dollar and in general you can expect to pay roughly double the equivalent moto fare, especially if theres more than one passenger or if its raining. Not that theyre all sinners rather than sinned against. They were banned from using Noro-dom Bvd recently and police parking crackdowns have resulted in tuk-tuks being impounded and released only on payment of a $24 fine.In recent years two meter taxi services have emerged

to complement the owner/driver and airport taxi services. The rates vary a little between the two companies, but expect to pay about $1 for the first 2km and 400 riel (10c) for each additional 200 metres. The companies offer clean, comfortable, air-conditioned cars that operate 24/7 and are a late-night boon if you are trav-elling with several friends.When it comes to owning your

own transport, personal freedom and small wage packets con-spire to make self-drive mopeds a favoured option. There are a host of new and secondhand dealers and workshops around town with prices ranging from $2 a day rental (plus a small fee for a helmet) to $250 and upwards to buy secondhand. It is also suggested that in the near future a new law will determine that pillion passengers on motorcycles will also have to wear helmets.Bigger bikes have become de rigueur and with recent

improvements to the roads there are more and more large road bikes in town in addition to the myriad dirt bikes that were once the only option for the more adventurous rider.The big question is: own or rent? If youre a resident you

26

Wherever you are going and at whatever time, plan your route taking into account the weather and your chosen mode of transport. Keep in mind that taking the most direct route may not always get you to your destination in the shortest time. Avoid the morning and evening rush hours, especially if youre in a hurry, and try to learn a few shortcuts as they can help you beat the jams.

mirrors, helmet and the like. You should also equip yourself with a Cambodian driving licence A1 for small bikes, A2 for bikes over 125cc.If youre buying, take along a knowledgeable friend and

a mechanic as guides when youre out there salivating over the choice of Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki or more exotic marques such as KTM and Harley-Davidson.If its four wheels youre after rather than two, Hummer,

Cadillac, Mercedes and Lexus are the leather-trimmed, air-conditioned province of the rich who in turn are the envy of

the many. Below that ho-

rizon youre staring into the secondhand abyss, where the badge on the bonnet may say Toyota

but even a cursory glance under the bonnet might reveal an-other engineering story. The vehicle you are thinking of buy-ing could well be a car of dubious origin, barely serviceable components and unlikely roadworthiness many vehicles on the roads here were insurance write-offs imported from the USA and elsewhere. So get an honest mechanic to check it over before you even start to discuss the price.Satisfied and behind the wheel after your mechanic has

given it a thorough post-delivery check, you need to pay

special attention to the paperwork. Ignore it and you risk setting in train a nightmare that will not only cost you a lot of money but also bring you into contact with the long arm of Cambodian law enforcement.The equivalent of a road fund licence will cost from $25-

$40 a year based on engine size. Buying and renewing such a licence can be a tricky exercise, however, because the issuing offices are open only for two weeks a year and their opening days and times are announced in Khmer. Again, your mechanic will know so ask him or another Khmer speaker to help. Oh yes, if your vehicle is fitted with

seatbelts . . . use them.If youre leaving the capital in search of fresh

pastures, most people prefer to travel to distant destinations by bus, coach, van or taxi. Over the years the number of bus companies has grown from a collection of clapped out coaches held together with gaffer tape to vistavision top-deck machines with adjustable seats, air conditioning and videos plus complimentary water, food and even a cramped loo downstairs. Prices vary depending on the age of the bus

and the facilities offered, but as a guide you can expect to pay $6-$12 for the five-hour journey to Siem Reap. By taxi the journey would cost from $60-$80 depending on the time of departure. With destinations as far apart and geographically diverse as Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, Vientiane and Pakse in Laos, Bangkok, Koh Chang and Pattaya in Thailand, Stung Treng on the Cambodian bor-der with Laos and Poi Pet and Koh Kong on the border with Thailand, the trailways cover many of the most popular desti-nations for locals and tourists. And on the subject of alternatives designed to soothe the

most furrowed of brows, the capitals reliable and inexpensive metered taxi services will get you there and back day and night without any hassles. n

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27

Law And OrderFor a country that has in recent memory only just come out of the dark ages

of unlawful disorder, great strides down the straight and narrow

have been accomplished..

In fact, even people who have been here a long time are probably unaware that there are laws relating to parking, for example. But a stroll pretty well anywhere in Phnom Penh would prove them wrong because down almost any 100-metre stretch of city centre road they will find vehicles in breach of all 17 parking laws. Arguably the most flaunted rule is parking on the pave-

ment but others, such as being no more than 25cm from the sidewalk or 5 metres from a junction, are also equally and dangerously ignored. Given that it is not permitted to leave your car for more than 72 hours on a public road, and taking into account the risk of theft or damage to a vehicle left unattended after dark, what can you do? For about 2,000 riel (about 50c) you can leave it at a

police station overnight, one of the multi-storey parks at the newer shopping malls or one of the many private parking lots around the capital where you can park for about $15-$20 a month with 24-hour security thrown in. Talking of which, you can learn a great deal about Cam-

bodian culture by watching the traffic at any junction where cyclos, motos, tuk-tuks, cars and 4X4s perform a dance of near-disaster. This ballet has one rule: the more you paid for your vehicle, the greater your right of way. But politicians prefer regulation to one-upmanship and a new traffic law was debated in 2006, and passed 77 votes to 73. Aimed at maintaining order and safety on the countrys often chaotic roads, the law has been implemented since September 2007.An English translation of it is available on the internet

(just search for Cambodia traffic law) and its 95 articles are important reading for all road users. Some of it, however, is rather alarming. Article 4, for example, says that all vehicles

moving along the roads must have drivers. Article 8 states that whereas traffic signs have priority over traffic regula-tions, and while traffic lights have priority over traffic signs, the direction signs of the traffic police have priority over traffic lights. Irrespective of its occasional eccentricities, the law is the law and, together with the penalties for violations, should help you to be a more responsible road user.

This knowledge will also allow you to play an innocent game of point-scoring as you keep a tally of the fines your moto, tuk-tuk or taxi driver is eligible for even over a short distance. On my last trip to the airport I calcu-lated mine had notched up a potential 680,000 riel. Enforcement is rather hap-

hazard but dont worry, the law also protects you from those tips that are so often slipped into police pockets. One article states that obtaining money by using the incor-rect fining tickets or not issuing fining tickets to the fined driver shall be punished by jailing from one year to three years and or fine from 2m riel-6m riel. Try telling that to the next policeman who stops you on Monivong.Which brings you on to the law and its application by the

boys in blue. The first thing you have to remember is that you

28

Law And Order

Road rules do exist but are not always followed, especially after sunset when the traffic police is off-duty. Dont expect moto or car drivers to look when pulling out from side streets in Cambodia its your responsibility not to hit them, not theirs not to be hit. Be especially careful driving at night because many vehicles either dont use headlights or only use high beam and traffic lights, speed limits and one-way signs are often ignored.

are a guest in this country, which roughly translates as a target. For example, an accident involving your bike or vehicle and one driven by a Cambodian is your fault for being at the

scene of the collision. So when the police turn up to sort out the mess, your level of documentation will determine how much its going to cost you.Foreigners resident

in Cambodia for more

than six months need to get a Cambodian driving licence A1 for bikes under 125cc, A2 for larger bikes, and B for cars. To get one, take your interna-tional licence, five recent pho-

tographs, a copy of your passport, visa, proof of address and $40 to one of the citys main motorbike rental businesses. The licence takes about a month to process, but in the meantime

you will be given a receipt which acts as a temporary permit. Alternatively, you might opt to take a driving test (yes, they do exist). Although it is mostly a no-brainer with a mix of theory and practice, it will at least introduce you to the mentality of the lawmakers in a country where walking is still the principle means of getting around. One advantage of taking the test (as-suming you pass) is that your licence will be valid until you reach the age of 65, whereas if you choose the former option you will be required to buy a licence every year.Insurance is another important consideration and although

the law does not yet require motorists or motorcyclists to have even third party cover, the day will inevitably come. Accidents happen and being prepared is obviously a priority for any road user, particularly if you are a barang. Like it or not, you represent money and wrongdoing just by being at the scene of an accident, so dont argue and get down to your local insurance broker for a quote before the event. It wont happen to me? It will, as just about every bike rider and car owner around town will tell you.The pack is led by Infinity Insurance, which is the coun-

trys leading insurer for motor vehicles, offering several poli-cies for both individual and commercial users. The com-pany covers a wide range of motor vehicles, from cars to motorbikes and large-scale transports such as buses, coaches and lorries.Depending on the size and make of your moto, you can

get comprehensive coverage for as little as $100 a year, and from about $300 for a car. Infinitys offices are located at 126 Norodom Bvd just south of the Independence Monu-ment and its agents are knowledgeable and helpful.In addition to vehicle cover, having good medical insur-

ance provides peace of mind because finding yourself in an accident can be a very complex and unpleasant pro-cess. There are several packages available, many of which include medical evacuation out of the country which, God forbid you should need it, could save your life. n

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29

August, exhibitors from 16 countries who showed off their garment and shoe-making machinery and materials. The planned office buildings and residential streets cannot

be far behind, and yet another satellite city will be born to thrive. Surely it also cannot be long before the acreage south of the Sofitel Phokeethra hotel becomes the focus of a high-stakes Monopoly game among investors and developers. Although their motives are obvious, they may be looking

the wrong way. Downtown and riverside Phnom Penh is outgrowing its high rental reputation and its burgeon-ing middle class is going beyond borders to seek a better, more settled and fresh-air lifestyle with west-

ern-style secure parking for their hard-earned Camrys.An increasing number have

turned to CamKo (its a Cam-bodian and Korean joint ven-ture, hence the name) City in

northern Russei Keo, which in town planning parlance is known a lot less romantically as Zone R1. A $2 billion and rising gated development of villas, townhouses and high-ris-es plus inked-in plans to add shopping malls, a convention centre, financial district, hospital, college and attractive deals to lure international companies to its commercial and busi-ness districts, its South Korean-employed sales team reckon its now about 80% sold out. What they have delivered according to scale models

and part-finished buildings is a less-crowded environment with welcome splashes of green, which they say will cover close on 5% of the development. Six-lane roads will speed traffic and hopefully reduce jams, there are enviro-systems in place to prevent flooding (which con-tinues to be a perennial central Phnom Penh problem), garbage disposal is a high tech priority and electricity will

A city built on water seems an extraordinary idea, but you have only to dig into the ground here and the hole will

quickly fill with water.

Its known as the water table and, in the case of Phnom Penh, its only a few metres below the surface. Thats why the search for secure foundations to realise the vaulting am-bitions of developers across the capital doesnt come cheap. Take the area formerly known as Lakeside as an example.

To make way for commercial and residential developments, the previously thriving hippy community on the eastern shoreline of Boeung Kak lake offering cheap accommoda-tion, soul food and happy herbs has rolled up its sleeping bags and moved on. All thats now left is a fetid street, a few Indian restaurants, shuttered guesthouses, bold graffitied walls, a narrow strip of water and a Lawrence of Arabia sand hill that reaches out to the lakes previously north, south and eastern shorelines. Some call it progress, others condemn the wrecking ball

and excavator route to modernity saying its tearing the heart out of their city. Nobody it seems is safe. In order to ensure its new building on Sisowath Quay was a safe haven for customers savings, a local banks developers dug deep to secure its rock steady foundations. The result was that own-ers of restaurants and boutiques adjacent to the building site watched as huge cracks appeared in interior walls. Sev-eral have said they will re-locate and escape the inexorable triple-digit price rises proposed by landlords as leases come due for renewal. Many have turned to StreetWise to find ar-eas on the up that could become their new golden miles.Others, though, have looked beyond the traffic jams and

pollution. Developers have seized on the opportunity to de-velop the heartland of Chruoy Changvar opposite the quay where a new Sokha hotel is taking shape. Diamond Island Citys commercial exposition potential is gradually being re-alised as its conference centres and modest show halls play host to auto industry pioneers, catering companies and, in

Tuol Kork

Norodom Boulevard

Suburban Shakedown

30

You immediately know when an areas on the up when the roadside leading to it fills with retailers caught up in its inhabitants pursuit of a better and fragrant environment. The perfume of a thousand frangipani and jasmine plants assail the senses from the growing number of nurseries with their multicoloured displays of flowers, plants, shrubs and trees.This mini city of the future that started out as a self-styled

millionaires row has attracted numerous non-governmental organisations that have moved their headquarters out of the high-rent and crowded centre of the capital to its quiet streets. As a result it is now also replete with schools, kin-dergartens and secure play areas. Far-sighted food and beverage entrepreneurs have also

seen and realised its potential with spacious garden restau-rants such as Sarika Garden Grill at 69 St 566 on the corner of St 317 with its child safe swimming pool, The Shop Toos stylish garden restaurant on St 337 and a recently opened Thai Huot supermarket offering a broad cross-section of barang favourites including OK Sauce, the cheapest slabs of mousetrap cheddar cheese in the capital and a Comme a la Maison fresh bread and pastry outlet to one side of its cash register line-up.There are also a number of Korean restaurants and the

areas first wine bar in the grand, two-storey shape of the Red Wine House at 12 St 315. As if in expectation of great and profitable things to come, its list includes a bottle of 2006 Chateau Lafitte Rothschild at $4,800 down through a Chateau Clerc-Milon at $486, a $62 Chateau Margaux and a $10, 2009 chardonnay. The gradual drift of barangs and their retail and restaurant

camp followers into Tuol Kork has created an allsorts com-munity that would vindicate the thinking of social engineers down the ages who believed deeply in the concept of multi ethnicity. It may not be perfect, but as more satellite cities mi-grate from drawing board to building site, its well worth keep-ing such a mostly low-rise and spacious model in mind. n

be supplied by its own power plant.Security is key in a country where about one-third of

the population lives below the poverty line, so at CamKo there are 24-hour guard patrols and security checkpoints at entrances and exits to protect the enclaves inhabitants, who will have forked out upwards of $150,000 for homes filled with their family treasures. What the new city lacks today, Tuol Kork is getting in abun-

dance. From self-contained to developing nicely and certainly closer to the capitals heart, the area west of Boeung Kak lake is a network of wide roads and grand colonial mansions cheek by jowl with typical low-rise Cambodian wooden houses and multi-storeyed apartment blocks.

If location, location, location are the watchwords, this area certainly has it all. Its close to main roads out of town, is a short ride to the international airport and is gradually acquiring the shops, supermarkets, minimarts and restaurants to complement the Tuol Kork open market in an airy and pleasant square at the junction of Streets 295, 582, 586, 299 and 303.

Road rules do exist but are not always followed, especially after sunset when the traffic police is off-duty. Dont expect moto, tuk tuk or car drivers to look when pulling out from side streets in Cambodia its your responsibility not to hit them, not theirs not to be hit. Be especially careful when driving at night because many vehicles either dont use headlights or only use high beam and traffic lights, speed limits and one-way signs are often ignored.

STREET WiSE

Boeung Kak Area 2011

31

A glance at the many artists aspirational

impressions of Cambodias capital of the future is

a wonder to behold.

High-rise commercial and residential developments grace the skyline, cyclists pedal down dedicated cycle lanes, pe-destrians stroll through tree-lined avenues, children play in parks and low-emission, dual fuel cars disappear into multi-storey parking areas.Aspiration and impression, though, are merely words that

may lead to shattered dreams, because this is Phnom Penh where the car is king and pedestrians are the underclass. Its population, for long denied the wealth enjoyed by the developed world, is winning the game of catch-up, but is in danger of hitting the buffered downside of prosperity. The more 4WD cruisers out there, the greater the need to

repair and reinforce the citys roads. The greater the realisa-tion of commercial success, the more high-rise buildings and the infrastructure to support them need to be planned for and provided. Its one thing to speed up communica-tions down fibre-optic cables, its another to provide an uninterrupted supply of electricity to power the computers at the heart of commerce and industry.Driving the citys planners is an overweening desire to

join their neighbours to the east and west while avoiding the traps of high levels of pollution and 24/7 traffic jams that have relegated Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City to also-rans in the city of the future stakes. They want to reclaim the capitals coveted title as the Pearl of Asia.Currently they have to bear in mind their responsibility

for the wellbeing of the citys estimated population of 1.3m people (which is expected to double by 2020) spread across an area of 375sq km in seven khans (districts), 76 sangkats (communes) and 637 phums (villages). The majority are young people who, unlike their parents, have grown up in a mostly peaceful environment tinged with vague memories of tanks on the streets. Their wish-list vehicles are called Mitsubishi, Lexus and Toyota and their future lies in the

plethora of business-boosted skyscrapers planned for the city.The 30-storey Canadia Bank building on Aung Doung St

(St 110) at the corner of Monivong Bvd will not be alone as is evidenced by the silhouetted cranes that punctuate the skyline at all points of the compass. The result will be an altered state, flatland development

created around towering ambition that with careful planning will add rather than subtract from Phnom Penhs appeal. Although the on/off switch is a fact of ev-eryday life here, the authorities have given the green light to the International Finance Centre (53 floors), three Star River tow-ers (50, 45 and 45 floors), a Gold Tower (42 floors), three tower projects at Sangkat Chroy Changva (25 each), plus the Vision City development of luxury condominiums, office buildings and a four-storey entertainment centre. In addition, the development of suburban mega-projects or satellites such as Camko City, Grand Phnom Penh International City and Koh Pich (Dia-mond Island City) will provide office space and house workers attracted to the oppor-tunities posed by Phnom Penhs future eco-nomic wellbeing. It is to be hoped that these grand designs

will again establish Phnom Penh as a magnet for big-stakes business players who will, in turn, expect high-class hotel accommodation such as the five-star, 16-storey Sokha Phnom Penh being built on the Chruoy Changva peninsula across the Tonle Sap.As the city rises from the ashes of an uncertain past and

looks confidently into a prosperous future, the governments declared ambition of creating a market economy in the kingdom has been taken rather literally. Where once

Building A New Tomorrow

Star River Project

32

there were a couple of Lucky supermarkets and grocery shops around town, other giants are emerging from the shadows.Luckys opening gambit was its superstore alongside the

Olympic stadium, but it is no longer the only player in town. Bayon has moved to a bigger store at 33/ 34 Kramoun Sar Avenue (St 114) and Thai Huot

has a new mid-sized store in Toul Kork. Plus, all sorts of versions of western con-venience one-stop minimarts

seem to have popped up on every street corner with near-copycat names including the ingenious 7 Elephants. Traditional markets such as Central,

Russian and Orussei now have more modern competition in the form of the Golden Sorya Mall on St 51, which is rumoured to be the first of many. All new corporate developments must have car parks, which have mostly come to pass with parking space on several floors for initially what seem like more vehi-cles than exist on Phnom Penhs roads.In an effort to regulate private trans-

portation and make sense of peoples right to use public roads, recent crackdowns on the com-pulsory wearing of safety helmets (for drivers and passen-geres alike) and the fitting of rear view mirrors will almost certainly be followed by measures to ensure vehicles are properly licensed, number plated, tested for roadwor-thiness and insured to protect the victims of accidents. Although the citys drivers have somehow managed to avoid too many serious accidents, more and more young, inexperienced drivers will lower the odds.

Phnom Penhs transportation infrastructure has for many years been inadequate, but the city fathers are planning new routes and facilities to match the capitals ambitious wish list of commercial credentials. Top of the list is the deepwater dredging required to return the port to its historical role as a commercial way station linking it to a refurbished and modernised rail hub that will speed imported merchandise to its far-flung destinations and ensure exported goods are dispatched quickly and efficiently.The citys narrow tangle of streets will also enjoy con-

siderable relief from a series of planned bypasses to create a city skirting, ring road system as well as over-passing bottleneck junctions. Main boulevards will be upgraded, widened and complemented by a series of strategic fly-overs to ease urban congestion (one of which has already been completed at the southern end of Norodom Bvd, with another under construction on the airport road). Plus, there is serious talk of a mass-transit system of buses and/or trams (the previous Japanese-sponsored experi-ment was a miserable failure in 2001) to speed workers to their desks in new commercial centres.There also seems to be some good news for hard-pressed

pedestrians in what many of them describe as the city of potential ghosts. Parking on Sisowath Quay has been outlawed at certain times of day, and the double-parking syndrome of a few years back on many main thoroughfares has all but disappeared. Although only a drawing board idea and made more feasible by the rash of multi-storey car parks beginning to spread across the city, there is hushed talk in the corridors of bureaucratic power of pedestrian-only areas and bicycle lanes on the riverfront, around the main markets and in the planned new cities.Like so many grand designs, Phnom Penhs future is

a balancing act between avarice and expectation. It is hoped, however, that common sense will also prevail and the citys quirky character will remain in place for all to enjoy into the next millennium. That quirkiness should hopefully include the continua-

tion of the citys unflaggingly popular alternative modes of transport such as the moto, tuk-tuk and cyclopousse. They may not all be streetwise, but they add character to an already colourful capital. n

STREET WiSE

Canadia Tower

The PlaceBuddhist Institute

33

Phnom Penh Khans, Sangkats & Post Codes

ChakAngraeLeu

BoeungTumpunPhsarDaeumThkov ChbarAmpov2

MEANCHEY

ChbarAmpov1

TonleBasac

Nirouth

BoeungTrabak

CHAMKARMON

TuolTumpoung

2Tuol

Tumpoung1

TumnobTuek

BoeungSalang

TuekLak3

TuekLak2

TuekLak1

VealVong

Mittapheap

BoeungProlit

BoeungReang

BoeungKengKang3

TuolSvayPrey1

BoeungKengKang2

Olympic BoeungKengKang1TuolSvay

Prey2

PhsarDaeumKor

PsarDapou3

PsarDapou2

PsarDapou1

CheyChumneas

Chaktomuk

PsarKandal1

PsarKandal2

PsarThmei3

PsarChas

WatPhnom

MonoromPsar

Thmei2

PsarThmeiI

43

12

BoeungKak2

BoeungKak1

TuolSangkae

SrahChak

DAUNPENH

RusseyKeo

KilometreLekh51

ChrangChamreh2

RUSSEYKEO

ChruoyChangvarPhnomPenhThmei

TeukThla

StuengMeanChey

PrekTaSek

PrekLeap

PrearkPra

Dangkao

TUOLKORK

ChakAngraeKraom

PRAMPIMAKARA

Khmuonh

Orussey

DANGKAO

34

Phnom Penh Khans, Sangkats & Post Codes

DANGKAO 12400 Dangkao 12401 Trapeang Krasang 12402 Kouk Roka 12403 Phleung Chheh Roteh 12404 Chaom Chau 12405 Kakab 12406 Pong Teuk 12407 Prey Veaeng 12408 Samraong Kraom 12409 Prey Sa 12410 Krang Thnong 12411 Krang Pongro 12412 Prateah Lang 12413 Sak Sampov 12414 Cheung Aek 12415 TUOLKORK 12150 Boeung Kak 1 12151 Boeung Kak 2 12152 Psar Depou 1 12153 Psar Depou 2 12154 Psar Depou 3 12155 Teuk Lak 1 12156 Teuk Lak 2 12157 Teuk Lak 3 12158 Phsar Daeum Kor 12159 Boeung Salang 12160

PRAMPIMAKARA 12250 Monorom 12251 Mittapheap 12252 Veal Vong 12253 Orussey 1 12254 Orussey 2 12255 Orussey 3 12256 Orussey 4 12257 Boeung Prolit 12258

MEANCHEY 12350 Boeung Tumpun 12351 Stueng Mean Chey 12352 Chak Angrae Kraom 12353 Chak Angrae Leu 12354 Chbar Ampov 1 12355 Chbar Ampov 2 12356 Nirouth 12357 Preaek Pra 12358

KHAN/ Sangkat Post Code

RUSSEYKEO 12100 Phnom Penh Thmei 12101 Teuk Thla 12102 Khmuonh 12103 Russey Keo 12104 Tuol Sangka 12105 Kilometre Lekh 51 12106 Chrang Chamreh 1 12107 Chrang Chamreh 2 12108 Svay Pak 12109 Chruoy Changvar 12110 Prek Ta Sek 12111 Prek Leap 12112

DAUNPENH 12200 Srah Chak 12201 Wat Phnom 12202 Phsar Chas 12203 Phsar Kandal 1 12204 Phsar Kandal 2 12205 Chey Chumneas 12206 Chaktomuk 12207 Phsar Thmei 1 12208 Phsar Thmei 2 12209 Phsar Thmei 3 12210 Boeung Reang 12211

CHAMKARMON 12300 Tonle Basac 12301 Boeung Keng Kang 1 12302 Boeung Keng Kang 2 12303 Boeung Keng kang 3 12304 Boeung Trabaek 12305 Tumnob Teuk 12306 Phsar Daeum Thkov 12307 Tuol Svay Prey 1 12308 Tuol Svay Prey 2 12309 Tuol Tumpoung 1 12310 Tuol Tumpoung 2 12311 Olympic 12312

*

Phnom Penh is divided into seven Khans (districts) which are further sub-divided into seventy six Sangkats (communes) each of which corresponds to a unique post code. See details below:

35

Whether youre walking, riding a motorcycle or driving a car, the streets of Cambodia require a mixture of forethought, skill and some good luck. Here are a few things to keep in mind that should ensure your safety:

As a pedestrian- Dont expect to have right of way anywhere, even on the pavement- Dont expect car or bike drivers to stop for you at junctions or what appear to be pedestrian crossings- Look both ways when crossing one-way streets as motorists often ignore the traffic regulations- Stick to well-lit streets at night especially if youre not familiar with the area. If in doubt take a moto

As a passenger on a moto- Wear a helmet if you have one - if you use motos a lot, buy one (they are available from just $15)- Carry plenty of one dollar bills and Khmer riel (500s and 1000s) as drivers can rarely change a large bill- Negotiate the fare before you start your journey to avoid complications later. Fares increase at night- Use a motodop you know or who has been recommended to you, especially if you are travelling at night- Dont assume your driver knows where he is going. Use our glossary on pg 101 for some Khmer phrases

When riding a motorcycle- Wear a helmet and make sure your bike has mirrors, a tax sticker and a licence plate. It is the law- Carry a copy of your driving licence and registration card (plus other documents if its a rented bike)- Check your fuel - its sometimes stolen from parked bikes so you may have less than you thought- Plan your journey carefully if its the rainy season; it can rain suddenly and some streets flood quickly - Dont expect cars or trucks to give way to you, as you are pretty low on the pecking order- Dont expect moto or car drivers to look before pulling out of side streets- Dont assume that other road users will obey traffic signals or no entry signs, especially after sunset- If an oncoming car flashes its lights at you, it means get out of my way not its your right of way- Be especially careful at night. Other road users often dont use headlights or only use high beam- If you are renting the bike, buy a padlock. Dont trust the one you were given by the rental company

- If you are travelling out of town, take a spare inner tube, clutch cable, brake pads and a tool kit in case you break down- If you venture into more rural areas be careful of chickens, dogs, pigs, cows and other animals running out in front of you

When driving a car- Be careful where you park because the police often tow cars away, especially near the riverfront.- Try not to leave your car unattended at night. There are several car parks in town with 24-hour security- If you buy a secondhand vehicle, change the door and ignition locks or you risk it being stolen- Note that roads indicated by dotted lines on our maps are unsealed and may not be passable by car

If you own a car or motorcycle, get it insured (call Infinity Insurance on 023 999 888 for details). Find yourself a good and reliable mechanic and keep his or her telephone number handy in case of an emergency. Buy your fuel at a petrol station because some streetside vendors dilute theirs with other spirits. Drive defensively and remember that its your responsibility not to hit another road user, not theirs to avoid being hit. If you are involved in an accident, keep calm and try to diffuse the situation. As a foreigner the accident will usually be considered your fault even if you disagree. Khmer logic dictates this because, as a foreigner you shouldnt be here and, if you werent, the accident wouldnt have happened.

Survival Tips

36

Greater Phnom Penh

HanoiStreet

NationalRoad2

NationalRoad1

NationalRoad6a

NationalRoad5

Street598

ToSihanoukvilleandKampot

ToTakeoandVietnam

ToVietnam

ToKompongThomandSiemReap

ToPursatandBattambang

NationalRoad21

Street217

ChomChaoStreet

NorthSouth

37

65

43

21

98

711

1012

1314

1617

1815

2324

25

2221

2019

3029

2827

26

North South

MAST

ERMAP

PHNOMPENH

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

54

55

56

57`

58

59

60

61

62

63

64

65

66

67

68

69

38

65

43

21

98

711

1012

1314

1617

1815

2324

25

2221

2019

3029

2827

26

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

54

55

56

57`

58

59

60

61

62

63

64

65

66

67

68

69

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the g

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tere

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bodia

pock

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39

76

1

Ifyouknowofanyerrorsoromissionsonourmaps,

pleaseletusknowbyemailat:

[email protected]

Wat Botom Serie Sen Monkol

KhmounhHealth Center

Han

oiStreet(St.1019)

Han

oiStreet(St.1

019)

pvhaN

Uy

pvhaNUy

40-POCKETGUiDECAMBODiA

38

3

6

4

2

Scheduled for completion around 2018, this 119 hectare site is being transformed into Camko City, which will feature houses, condominiums, schools, a hospital, shopping centres

and other commercial facilities.

TumnupPayap(St.1928)

pvTMnb'V"y"ab

BoeungPoungPeay

(c) Aruna Technology-41

43

96

23

3

The first phase of Camko City, known as Zone R1, covers an area of approximately 100,000 square

metres and will feature villas, townhouses, condominiums, a street mall and retail shops.

St.598

St.598

St.59

8St. 355

St. 59

0

St. 58

St. 62


Sousdey Super Mart

CamkoCity

Toul MarketWat Nhean Reangsey

Chey Chomnes Market

Gold Star Mart


43

10

5

6

4

4

NationalRoad

5

Natio

nalR

oad

5

St. 58

St. 62

St. 907

PTT

St. 93

ANZ

SBC

Master MartU Shop

Sokimex

Sokimex

Sokimex

Fuel Depot

Phnom Pen

h M

art

Caltex

BoeungSalang

Toul Sangke Market

Departmentof Education

Toul SangkePrimary School

Wat Toul Sangke

ACLEDA

Kingdom Breweries

to Pursat andBattambang


CamGas

4116

43

5

National Road 6A to Siem Reap is often choked with traffic for the first 5-10 km. Its often quicker to take NR 5 and cross the river by the new Prek

Kdam bridge, located about 35km from town near Oudong, although the road connecting the bridge to

NR6 is in fairly poor condition.

Sokimex

SBC

Master Mart

Sokimex

Phnom Penh Mart

ANZ

Caltex

PTT

ACLEDAVathanak Supermarket

Dusty Clinic

Caltex

Wat Mongol SireyKean Kleang

Wat Yaroeun

WashingtonHotel

SokimexTela

NationalRoad

5

Natio

nalR

oad

6A

pvCatie

lx 6

TonleSapRiver

Youngs Commercial Center

NationalRoad

6A

ACLEDA

to Kompong Cham, Kratie,

Kompong Thom, Siem Reap and

Poipet


Cool Mart

Chatting Mart

43

126

6

At 4,200km, the Mekong is the12th longest river in the world.

Starting in Chinas Qinghai province,it flows through Burma, Laos,

Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam before emptying into the South China Sea.

Wat Ktor

MekongRiver

Ifyouknowofanyerrorsoromissionsonourmaps,

pleaseletusknowbyemailat:[email protected]


15

4

136

7

Phnom Penhs road system is developing so quickly that few of the new streets have names.

Many of the tertiary roads are notpassable by cars, and are no more than walking tracks in some cases.

Forest Research Centre

Phnom Penh ThmeiVocation Training Center

Phnom Penh ThmeiPrimary School

Makosa Mart

Canadia

St. 1984

St. 1011

St. 1011

St. 1007

Sen Sok InternationalUniversity Hospital

ACLEDA


St.1986

Han

oiStreet

Han

oiStreet

pvTMnb'V"y"ab

pvhaNUy

pvhaNUy

Rainbow Mart

Tela


Sokimex

Sinetra Mart

Caroline Mart

Ly Heang

LHR

243

5

14

9

6

4

8

Borie II St

Borie I St

St. 19

58 B

Securities & Exchange Commission

St. 1126

St. 339

St. 337

St. 335

St. 542

St. 544

St. 566St. 568

St. 570St. 572St. 574

St. 594

St. 329 Indraktevy High School

Tuol Kork Reaksmey Market

French Red Cross

Seventh DayAdventistMission

Living Hope In Christ Church

St. 600

St. 311

St. 313

St. 602

St. 604

St. 606

St. 327

St. 325

St. 596

St. 1003

St. 1984

St. 1988

St. 1007

St. 323

St. 321

St

streetwise

Documents

new streets

citys streets

new issue

issue of streetwise

edition of streetwise

capitals tangle of streets

detailed grid references

detailed street directory