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“If you took Gabriel García Márquez’s village of Macondo from A

Hundred Years Of Solitude and transported it from the Catholic legend

of South America to Africa’s eastern flank, then you would go some way

to understanding Ibo’s overwhelming magic.” – Nick Maes,

The Guardian

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Ibo Island lies in the Quirimbas Archipelago National Park of Northern Mozambique. Steeped in history and rich in culture, the island has been nominated as a World Heritage Site and is home to

one of the oldest towns in Mozambique. The country’s recorded history goes back many centuries and this area has been subject to conquest and exploitation since time immemorial. What remains on Ibo Island is reflective of much of this rich legacy.

As early as AD600 Arab traders had established contact with local inhabitants and set up fortified trading posts along the current Mozambique coastline. Via these trading posts, slaves, gold and ivory were shipped to the Arab world. Ibo Island was one of the first ancient settlements in Mozambique, settled shortly after Ilha do Moçambique (usually just known as “Ilha”). The Fort of Forma de Cisterna was constructed by the Arabs long before the first Portuguese occupation.

Ibo Island, like all the Quirimbas islands that had a supply of fresh water, had long supported human habitation. At the time of

the first Portuguese contact these islands were called the Maluane Islands because the local population, generally made up of traders, designed woven cloth both in silk and cotton and dyed with local indigo. This cloth was called Maluane, and was much sought after on the mainland.

When the Portuguese first arrived in the Quirimbas, the main trading centre in the archipelago was on the large Quirimba Island (the next island south of Ibo Island). The Portuguese attacked Quirimba Island in 1522, because the local Muslim traders of Quirimba refused to trade with the Portuguese Christians, and intended probably to eliminate them as trading rivals. The town was set alight and destroyed, dhows sunk, some 60 Muslim families killed, and much looting took place with large amounts of ivory and other trade goods seized.

By 1590, seven out of the nine largest islands were ruled by a Portuguese Christian lord, and only two by Muslims. Ibo Island traded in amber, jet, ivory, ambergris and turtle shell. The local inhabitants had to pay 5% of their produce to the island’s Lord

– as well as a contribution to the Catholic Church. On Ibo, the Portuguese built large rainwater cisterns that enabled them to raise cattle, pigs and goats. Meat, millet, rice, beans and palm products were all exported and even Ilha de Mozambique seems to have been supplied from Ibo Island. Ibo Island had now become the most important centre of all the islands. In the mid 17th Century the Archipelago was ruled by two main Mazungo (Portuguese) families – the Morues and the Meneses.

At this time the infamous slave trade also became very significant, with the French needing labour for their plantations in Mauritius and Reunion. The Portuguese tried to control this trade, for monetary, rather than humanitarian, reasons and the Quirimbas Archipelago was ideal for clandestine pursuits. The trade brought more prosperity to Ibo Island even after the market switched to Brazil, and indeed, even after it was illegal.

Of this period, historian Newitt writes: ”After the government of Mozambique was separated from that of Goa in 1752, the Governor General began building a fort at

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Words: ® Jo-AnnA CollArd

Images: © Ibo IslAnd lodge

Ibo IslandA drop in the ocean

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Ibo Island, which was raised to the status of municipality. In 1770 the new district of Cabo Delgado was created (on Ibo Island) with its own Governor. A church and warehouses were built and in 1786 the island acquired a customs house. In 1791 Antonio de Melo e Castro began work on a new fort. This fine, star-shaped building rose on the mudflats guarding the narrow shipping channel through the reefs into Ibo Island’s harbour. The slave trade bought Ibo great prosperity. Streets of houses were laid out and public buildings were erected around the plaza. By the beginning of the 19th Century Ibo had become a very established and fashionable trading centre.”

Throughout the 18th and 19th Century the population of Ibo Island and the adjacent regions were consistently under attack from Dutch and Madagascar forces. As a result of the attacks, the Fort of São João Batista (St. John Baptist) was completed in 1791. The little chapel housed inside of the fort was built in 1795, followed by the Fort Santo Antonio (St. Anthony) and Fort of the Bairro de Rituto built in 1847. It wasn’t until 1897, however, when Ibo Island was integrated into the administration of the Niassa Company that the island and population enjoyed relative safety and peace. In 1902, the capital District of Cabo Delgado was transferred from Ibo Island to Port Amelia, currently the city of Pemba. And now all that is left of the once great trading power on Ibo is an island steeped in history, and mystery!

Ibo has remained all but forgotten to the outside world for almost a century, leaving a ghost town of crumbling forts, old 17th Century mansions, and many fascinating stories just waiting to be told. That is, until the people behind Ibo Island Lodge stumbled across this gem. Here is

how they describe their initial contact:“We believe that everyone dreams of

finding an unexpected jewel or some secret place and that’s exactly how we felt when we first discovered Ibo Island. The journey and dream of Ibo Island Lodge started some 10 years ago, when we stumbled quite by chance on Ibo Island. Mozambique had always held a fascination for us – maybe it was the Bob Dylan song or maybe it was because everyone told us we couldn’t get in there – whatever it was, it made us even more determined to find a way...

We boarded a traditional wooden sailing dhow and began a dhow safari of a lifetime to explore the islands. Pristine, staggering beauty and the hospitality of the local people had a profound effect on us. We were in the middle of an undeniable exotic paradise as we hopped from one island to another – each one more beautiful than the other. Totally romanced, our journey eventually led us to a small wondrous island that is Ibo.

We will never forget that first arrival. Under dhow sail at night, with phosphorus flash bouncing off the warm water, we slipped silently into the ancient harbour of Ibo. As the trade buildings reflected off the sea, in the moonlight, Ibo appeared to us like a lost city.

Part of Ibo’s charm was that it had fallen into decline, and still guarded its secrets, history and culture and a marine world totally unexplored. But for the island’s genuinely hospitable communities, Ibo offered very little in the way of opportunity, and her people were desperately poor. The time spent on Ibo then, captivated us, and we knew we had found a place quite unique. We made a commitment there and then to get involved in Ibo’s future in some way, and to attempt to develop a range of sustainable and community empowering tourism projects.”

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IBO ISLAND LODGEIbo Island Lodge is the ideal place from which to explore the Quirimbas

Archipelago National Park in Northern Mozambique. From the Lodge,

you can wander around the mysterious town amongst forts and ancient

buildings with many fascinating stories just waiting to be retold.

In addition to being a place of historical significance, Ibo Island is one of the most pristine destinations in Africa. At Ibo, you will encounter isolated beaches and explore rich coral reefs. Guests

can take to the water to discover the Quirimbas National Park in sailing and motorized dhows or quietly paddle through the mangroves in kayaks. Beyond the warm turquoise waters inhabited by turtles and tropical fish, the ocean around Ibo is home to the shy and mysterious dugong. Viewings of dolphins and whales are frequent, whilst the bird life is abundant and varied.

The new Ibo Island Lodge is a model of community empowering tourism and was opened in December 2006 as the brainchild of Kevin and Fiona Record, who have a track record in the safari and tourism industry and have worked closely in community development on Ibo for many years. As the pioneer tourism investors on Ibo Island, and a specialist tour operator to the Quirimbas Archipelago, they believe that it is critical for local communities to benefit from the Ibo Island Lodge development – which is based on sustainable and fair trade tourism. This is quality, low impact and ethical tourism where each guest’s visit makes a difference. Ibo Lodge practices what it preaches, and common areas and guest suites, for example, are adorned with the handcrafted beds, benches, silver wear, glass work and cloth made by local islanders.

Perfectly positioned for spectacular views of the dhows sailing out to sea on each high tide, Ibo Island Lodge encompasses three

historic colonial mansions, each over 100 years old, with walls more than a meter thick and lofty, high ceilings. Ibo is a potential World Heritage Site and, therefore, the rooms have been designed to incorporate the original architecture of the buildings. Guests are accommodated in 14 en suite bedrooms, all of which are air-conditioned and also have ceiling fans. Various verandas are located throughout the Lodge and are decorated with handcrafted furniture and soft cushions. With two swimming pools situated in tropical gardens, an air-conditioned lounge and private dinning room, as well as a terrace restaurant with an open-air lounge area for after dinner drinks under the stars, spaces for relaxation abound. Should you desire something a bit different, the staff will arrange a special dinner for two, set on the rooftop of the old fort overlooking the ocean.

Guests can partake in a multitude of experiences – from relaxing on the beach, to kayaking, sailing, swimming, snorkelling or indulging in a luxurious massage – and will be captivated by the island’s tranquillity, history and ambience. On one day you may choose to visit the Lodge’s community projects that support many households on Ibo, and on other days simply relax, refresh the senses and soak up the idyllic atmosphere. Here, you can easily become immersed in the unchanged, ancient culture of Ibo and the rare chance to interact with wonderfully hospitable islanders. Ibo Island Lodge offers all the ingredients of island paradise and a journey to an era quite forgotten.

Contact : +27 21 702 0285/0643, or reservations@iboisland.com.

S Tay

GETTING THERE WITH AIRLINK

When you fly AIRLINK, you will fly the freedom of the African sky on 27 direct routes

throughout Southern Africa and the Indian Ocean islands. With Tuesday & Saturday flights, you can discover your favourite far-away paradise resort in the Quirimbas Archipelago with its fascinating culture, white tropical beaches and unique marine life, where time stands still. From regional centres to exotic destinations, AIRLINK will fly you there in style & comfort in its BAE aircraft which also features business class. So spread your wings and go to www.flyairlink.com, call +27 11 961 1700, or contact your tour operator or travel agent.Words: ® Jo-AnnA CollArd

Images: © Ibo IslAnd lodge

The perfect pampering