statistical review of winter altitude climbing in pakistan_winter 2013 version

Prepared by Raheel Adnan | http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/

Sr #Climbing

SeasonPeak

Attempt # on

this PeakNation Leader Name Max Point

Date of Max

PointEnd of Expedition Mountain Face Climbing Route Climbing Team Winter Type Observation and Notes

1 1987/1988 K2 1 POL/GB/CAN Andrzej Zawada 7300m02-Mar-88

06-Mar-887-Mar-12 South Face Abruzzi Ridge

Maclej Berbeka (Pol)

Eugeniusz Chrobak (Pol)

Leszek Cichy (Pol)

Miroslaw Dasal (Pol)

Miroslaw Gardzielewski (Pol)

Zygnmunt A. Heinrich (Pol)

Bogdan Jankowski (Pol)

Pawel Kubalski (Pol)

Aleks Lvov (Pol)

Maciej Pawlikowski (Pol)

Michal Tokarzewski (Pol)

Krzysztof Wielicki (Pol)

Jaques Olek (Can)

Pierre Bergeron(Can)

Jean-Pierre Danvoye (Can)

Jean-Francois Gagnon (Can)

Stuart Hutchison (Can)

Bernard Mailbot (Can)

Yves Tessier (Can)

John Barry (GB)

Roger Mear (GB)

Jon Tuinker (GB)

Mike Woolridge (GB)

Calender winterK2's first winter expedition; Wielicki and Cichy established C3 on 2-mar; Mear and Gagnon

reached Camp 3 on 6th March

2 1987/1988 BP 1 POL Maciej Berbeka 8035m 6-Mar-88 7-Mar-88 West Face; Pakistani Side Standard Route Aleksander Lvov (Pol) Calender winterBP's first winter expedition (Reached Foresummit); Berbeka thought he made it to summit

but later it proved to be Foresummit

3 1988/1989 NP 1 POL Maciej Berbeka 6800m 9-Feb-89 Right after 09-Feb attempt Rupal S-SE Spur (Messner 1970)

Maciej Berbeka (Pol)

Piotr Konopka (Pol)

Dr. Roman Mazik (Pol)

Andrzej Osika (Pol)

Andrzej Samolewicz (Pol)

WIodzimierz Stoiriski (Pol)

Stanistaw Szczerba (Pol)

Zbigniew Terlikowski (Pol)

Pawel Mularz (Pol)

Krzysztof Szafranski (Colombia)

Kurt Walde (Ita)

Calender winterNP's first winter expedition; Planned route SE Buttress but switched to Messner Route (S-

SE Spur); Maciej Berbeka, Piotr Konopka, Andrzej Osika reached 6800 m

4 1990/1991 NP 2 POL Maciej Berbeka 6600m13-01-1991

18-01-199127-Jan-91 Rupal

S-SE Spur (Messner 1970);

Schell's Route


Jacek Berbeka (Pol)

Andrzej Osika (Pol)

Andrzej Samolewicz (Pol)

Wojciech Szczerba (Pol)


Dr. Krzysztof Witkowski (Pol)

Sean Smith (British)

Jon Tinker (British)

Simon Yates (British)

Nikola Kekus (British)

Late autumn/winterAfter failing to progress beyond 6600m on Messner Route (S-SE Spur), they made an alpine

push on Schell's route (starting 17-Jan) but couldn’t go beyond 6600m

5 1996/1997 NP 3 POL/Pak Andrzej Zawada 7870m 11-Feb-97 Right after 11-Feb attempt Diamir Kinshofer

Jacek Fluder

Bogdan Jankowski

Zbigniew Kroskiewicz

Krzysztof Pankiewicz

Maciej Pawlikowski

Ryszard Pawłowski

Bogdan Stefko

Zbigniew Trzmiel

Piotr Wojtek

Jarosław Żurawski

Calender winterKrzysztof Pankiewicz tuned back from around 7700m, while Zbigniew Trzmiel was around

250m short of summit.

6 1996/1997 NP 4 Brit / Den Victor Saunders Below 6000m Dec-96 Dec-96 Diamir Kinshofer Rafael Jensen (Denmark) Late autumn/winter Turned back due to difficulty and slow progress

7 1997/1998 NP 5 POL Andrzej Zawada 6800m Around 6-Feb-98 18-Feb-98 Diamir Kinshofer

Bogdan Jankowski

Ryszard Pawłowski

Jarosław Żurawski

Marek Klar

Dariusz Załuski

Piotr Konopka

Grzegorz Benke

Jerzy Natkański

Piotr Snopczyński

Paweł Mularz

A. Samolewicz

Calender winterJerzy Natkański , Ryszard Pawłowski reached 6800m. The expedition encountered

unexpected abundant snowfall. A falling stone broke the leg of Ryszard Pawłowski.

8 2002/2003 K2 2PL, CAN, GEO, KZ,

UZKrzysztof Wielicki 7650m

13-2-03

26-2-032/28/2003 North North Ridge

Jacek Berbeka (Pol)

Bartosz Duda (Pol)

Bogdan Jankowski (Pol)

Jacek Jawień (Pol)

Marcin Kaczkan (Pol)

Roman Mazik (Pol)

Piotr Morawski (Pol)

Jerzy Natkański (Pol)

Jan Szulc (Pol)

Jacek Teler (Pol)

Maciej Pawlikowski (Pol)


Mikołaj Zieliński (Pol)

Jacques Olek (CAN)

Gia Tortladze (Georgia) - left early

Iljas Tuchwatulin (UZ) - left early

Denis Urubko (KZ)

Wasilij Piwcow (KZ)

Calender winter

Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr Morawski, Denis Urubko reached C4 at 7650m; Denis Urubko and

Piotr Morawski have established camp IV at 7630 m on 13-2-03. On 26-2-03, Denis Urubko

and Marcin Kaczkan reached 7630 m and found camp IV destroyed by the wind.

Statistical Review of Winter Altitude Climbing in Pakistan_Post Winter 2013 Version

http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/

9 2002/2003 BP 2 SPA/ ITA Juanito Oiarzabal 6400m 13-Feb-03 1-Mar-03 Pakistani Side Standard Route

Juan VALLEJO (SPA)

Josu BEREZIARTU (SPA)

Silvio Mondinelli (ITA)

Fernando LATORRE (SPA)

Mikel Zabalza (SPA)

Calender winter Several camps destroyed; continuous bad weather forced them to turn back

10 2006/2007 NP 6 POL Krzysztof Wielicki 6600m 11-Jan-07 17-Jan-07 Rupal Schell

Jacek Berbeka (Pol)

Artur Hajzer (Pol)

Tommy Heinrich (ARG)

Jacek Jawień (Pol)

Przemysław Łoziński (Pol)

Robert Szymczak (Pol)

Krzysztof Tarasewicz (Pol)

Dariusz Zaluski (Pol)

Gulam Rasool (Pak)

Hassan Sadpara (Pak)

Late autumn/winter Jacek Jawien, Hadjer and Zaluski set up Camp 2 at 6600m

11 2006/2007 BP 3 ITA / Pak Simone Moro 7200m 1-Feb-07 23-Feb-07 Pakistani Side Standard Route Shaheen Baig (Pak) Calender winter Both established C3 at 7200m. Didn’t get chance for summit push

12 2007/2008 NP 7 ITA / Pak Simone La Terra 6000m after 10-Dec-2007 21-Dec-07 Diamir Kinshofer? Mehrban Karim (Pak) Late autumn a blizzard blew away the team's BC kitchen tent with everything in it across the glacier

13 2007/2008 BP 4 ITA / Pak Simone Moro 7800m 8-Mar-08 8-Mar-08 Pakistani Side Standard RouteShaheen Baig (Pak)

Qudrat Ali (Pak)Calender winter

Summit push aborted due to cutoff time; Qudrat stayed in C3. Shaheen, Moro reached

7800m

14 2008/2009 BP 5 POL / Can / Pak Artur Hajzer 7000m

09-Jan-09

17-Feb-09

23-Feb-09

25-Feb-09 Pakistani Side Standard Route


Don Bowie (Can)

Qudrat Ali (Pak)

Aminullah Baig (Pak)

Muhammad Ali (Pak)

Calender winter Continous bad weather

15 2008/2009 NP 8 POL Jacek Teler 6300m xx 29-Dec-08 DiamirProbably Mummery Rib?

Close to Mazeno ridgeJarosław Żurawski (Pol) Late autumn/winter The Jaroslaw quit due to hard conditions.

16 2010/2011 BP 6 POL Artur Hajzer 7830m 16-Mar-11 17-Mar-11 Pakistani Side Standard Route

Rafał Fronia (Pol)

Jarosław Gawrysiak (Pol)

Arkadiusz Grządziel (Pol)

Marcin Kaczkan (Pol)

Piotr Snopczyński (Pol)

Robert Kaźmierski (Pol)

Krzysztof Starek (Pol)


Ali Raza (Pak)

Ali Sadpara (Pak)

Calender winter 7830 reched by Ali Sadpara and Robert Szymczak; stopped by a huge crevasse

17 2010/2011 G1 1 Aut / Can / Spa Gerfried Goschl

New Route

6650m;

Standard

7050m

9-Mar-11;

14-Mar-1121-Mar-11 southwest

1) new route, following the

couloir and ridge close to the

right edge of the triangular

rock face that forms the left

side of the west-southwest

face of Hidden Sud (a.k.a.

Gasherbrum South, 7,069m)

2) Standard Route

Alex Txikon ( Spa)

Louis Rousseau (Can)Calender winter

G1's first winter expedition;

On March 9 reached 6,650m via new route; later 7050m reached on standard route

18 2010/2011 G2 1 ITA/Kaz/USA Simone Moro SUMMIT 2/2/2011 04-Feb-11 (Return to BC) South west SW Ridge - E RidgeDenis Urubko (Kaz)

Cory Richards (USA)Calender winter

G2's first winter expedition; First eight-thousander summited in Pakistan. All three

members summited

19 2010/2011 NP 9 RUS Sergey Tsygankov Nikolayevich 6000m xx 29-Dec-10 Diamir Kinshofer NA Late autumn/winter Called off due to health issues; reached only C1

20 2010/2011 NP 10 POL Marek Klonowski 6000m before 24-01-2011 before 24-01-2011 Diamir Kinshofer Tomek Mackiewicz (Pol) Calender winter xx

21 2011/2012 K2 3 RUS Viktor Kozlov 7200m 2-Feb-12 2/6/2012 South Abruzzi Ridge

Andrew Mariev

Vadim Popovich

Alexey Bolotov

Nickolay Totmjanin

Valery Shamalo

Vitaly Gorelik

Vladimir Belous

Eugeny Vinogradsky

Iljas Tukhvatullin

Nickolay Cherny (coach)

Serguey Bychkovsky (doctor)

Calender winter

Vitaly Gorelik died in BC; Jan, 31 Nick Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo and Vitaly Gorelik lifted

next gear to 7000 m. Then Nick managed to fix two ropes above 7000 m. Feb, 2 the trio

Iljas Tukhvatullin, Andrew Mariev and Vadim Popovich reached 7050 m via fixed ropes,

then fixed 3 ropes more till 7200 m

22 2011/2012 G1 2 POL / Pak Artur Hajzer SUMMIT 3/9/2012 3/16/2012 Northwest Standard Route

Adam Bielecki (Pol)

Agnieszka Bielecka (Pol)

Janusz Gołąb (Pol)

Shaheen Baig (Pak)

Ali Sadpara (Pak)

Calender winter Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab summited

23 2011/2012 G1 3AUT / Spa / POL /

PAK / SwitzGerfried Goschl

7000-

7400m

Approx

3/9/2012 3/16/2012 southwest

New route, following the

couloir and ridge close to the

right edge of the triangular

rock face that forms the left

side of the west-southwest

face of Hidden Sud (a.k.a.

Gasherbrum South, 7,069m)

Darek Zaluski (Pol)

Nisar Hussain (Pak)

Cedric Hahlen (Switz)

Carlos Suarez (Spa)

Alex Txikon (Spa)

Tamara Stys (Pol)

Calender winter Cedric, Nisar & Gerfried went missing during summit push

24 2011/2012 NP 11 ITA/KAZ Simone Moro 6800m 27-Jan-12 14-Feb-12 Diamir Messner-Habeler route Denis Urubko (Kaz) Calender winter

25 2011/2012 NP 12 POL Marek Klonowski 6600m? Around 19-Jan-12 9-Feb-12 Diamir Kinshofer Tomek Mackiewicz (Pol)

Lukasz Biernacki (Pol/Ire)Calender winter

26 2012/2013 BP 7 POL Krzysztof Wielicki SUMMIT 5-Mar-13 8-Mar-13 Pakistani Side Standard Route


Adam Bielecki (Pol)

Tomasz Kowalski (Pol)

Arthur Malek (Pol)

Shaheen Baig (Pak)

Aminullah Baig (Pak)

Karim Hayyat (Pak)

Calender winterAdam, Maceij, Artur and Tomasz reached summit at sunset. Maceij Berbeka & Tomasz

Kowalski went missing during descent at 7900m.

27 2012/2013 NP 13 POL Marek Klonowski 7400m 7-Feb-13 10-Feb-13 Rupal Schell Tomek Mackiewicz (Pol) Calender winter Tomek reached 7400m, while Marek returned from 6600m; Resources ended

28 2012/2013 NP 14 HUN / US David Klein 5500m27-Jan-13

10-Feb-1310-Feb-13 Diamir Messner-Habeler route

Zoltan Robert Acs (Hung),

Ian Overton (US)Calender winter

Zoltan left on 1st feb due to frostbite; expedition called off as Ian showed signs of AMS at

5500m

29 2012/2013 NP 15 ITA / FRA Daniel Nardi 6400m 28-Jan-13 13-Feb-13 Diamir Mummery Ribbon Elisabeth Revol (Fra) Calender winter Called off in bad weather

30 2012/2013 NP 16 FRA Joel Wischnewski 4500m 15-Jan-13 Missing since 7-Feb-13 Rupal SE Pillar NA Calender winter Solo attempt from BC without any support

statistical review of winter altitude climbing in pakistan_winter 2013 version

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