stathams_quarry_miniguide2008

8/7/2019 Stathams_Quarry_Miniguide2008

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/stathamsquarryminiguide2008 1/9

Statham’s Quarry Mini Guide

Statham’s Quarry is a fine example of an outdoor gym. It is packed with bolted routesand offers a project for every climber – professional or punter. As a bonus, it is alsothe ideal venue for a few burnouts or to throw your old TV from the clifftop. Statham’shas been the scene of weddings, movies, abseiling accidents, epic redpoints andmany a brownpant moment.

Recently, like Mountain Quarry, a variety of parties have spent considerable time andeffort rebolting and removing loose rock from many routes. This has nurtured aresurgence in quarry popularity and added significantly to the value and enjoyment ofrock climbing in the quarry.

Routes that have been rebolted, cleaned or otherwise improved with lower-offsinclude:

Left Lateral Port Side Smidgen Winkler, Chips and Dips, Bat Chain Puller, Hammerand Tongs and Morning Glory.

Special thanks should be given to those doing new routes and the rebolting crews.Please don’t forget to donate to Safer Cliffs WA when you get the chance.

Feedback on the miniguide is very welcome. Descriptions and topos can always be

improved. Thanks also to Ross Weiter and the Perth 2002 Guide for lots of text androute descriptions.

© Neil Gledhill 2008. Version 1.0.



CR

AdF

RLACD

NOD

M

* Agent de France 18m 23Start 3m L of CR. Power up this gym monkeychallenge. 4 rings to lower-off. Some pointyholds.Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Jan 08** Chain Reaction 20m 23The route takes the overhanging arete on the Lof the orange wall past 4 ringbolts to lower-off.Start well right of the first bolt. Climb it quickbefore it gets downgraded….Best to do thecrux then clip the bolt.Andrew Corbe, Alby Tangles 13 Nov 94*** Real Life Ambition 15m 21The pumpy open corner/crack with bolts andlower-offs, 2m R of CR. One of the best climbsin Perth at the grade. Technical, steep, pumpyand lots of fun ! Lower-off and last bolt kindlyadded by Weiter after FA.Neil Gledhill, Jim Truscott, Wayne Carroll Sept02** Carbon Dogs 10m 25Start as for NOD sharing 1st BR. Hard traverseL then up finishing on arête with sequenceyclimbing. Hard and pumpy, a credit to theWhizz and his belay monkey. 2FBR and 3BR tolower offs.D. Zonta, M. Rosser Feb 07No Ordinary Determination 10m 22The overhung line to the right of RLA. It isamazing that it has taken so long for thissporting route to be climbed. Climb it like youhave a gremlin on your shoulder. A bit trickynear the ground then able across the ledge andup to the high crux. 5BR to lower offs.M. Rosser, J. Truscott 19 Mar 06Mourning 20m 16RClimb the R edge of the large detached blockto its top. About 3m from the corner mantelshelf

onto the wall, then follow the corner straight upand finish L. Many mourned their inability tomake the mantelshelf – it looks so simple.Michael Adams, Tony Fowler about 70



Czech Mate 18m 22A right trending line straight from the gym. Ajump start and an intimidating bulge. Very trickyto onsight, especially if you are short.Ross Weiter, Linda Antoncich Jul 04Chickens 18m 26Equipped Corbe. 5m right of CM. Tough for thegrade… tougher now the holds have fallen off.Logan Barber Jul 03* The Oubliette 15m 21/22Start just left of LLPSSW at a fixed hanger witha pleasant balancy move off some rubble. Becareful not to fall into the oubliette and riskensnarement. Classy moves all the way,especially the gaston mantle! The 3rd boltcould be tricky to clip at the grade and somemay argue it is superfluous. But so what.Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain, March 08* Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler15m 21Climb past bolts to thin flake crack. Follow thebolted line to the loweroff. No trad gearrequired. The start can be frustrating. Trystarting well R of the bolt and then traversingback left fairly soon.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90* All The Young Fascists 15m 246 bolts to loweroff. Finesse optional. 2nd boltcan be tricky to get to if you are short..Neil Gledhill Mar 07*** Chips and Dips 20m 26Uber classic sustained thin climbing up thegrey line. Technical, HARD and cranky all theway to the loweroff. A Perth testpiece.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90Batchain Puller 20m 25Climb the strenuous overhanging groove tosecond BR. Continue up groove past bolts toloweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and qualityof the climb unconfirmed.Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90

C

TO

LLPSSWATYF CAD

BCPCM



Batchain Puller 20m 25Climb the strenuous overhanging groove tosecond BR. Continue up groove past bolts toloweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and qualityof the climb unconfirmed.Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90Bullseye 20m 25Start 2m R of Batchain Puller, up boulderyarete and up to loweroffs above Hammer and

Tongs. Not a bad route, but suffers from havinga no hands rest after each hard move.Probably NOT soft for the grade.Emil Mandyczewsky Apr 08** Hammer & Tongs 25m 25Start up R trending ramp L of Short Circuit thenup the flake on the L wall. Step left when thingsget tricky to a balancy stance. Then up andslightly R before a tricky traverse back left. Agreat climb with an amazing variety ofmemorable moves.Derek Toulalan, Shane Richardson Jun 92Short Circuit 27m 17XOriginally graded 15, this climb is a seriouslead with sharp rock, loose rock and sparse,very poor pro. This is not to say that the climbitself is bad (it is actually quite fun), just that it isa good one to top-rope. Climbs the obviousrightward trending spikey, loose looking line upthe main wall.Harry Butler, Gary Matier Dec 89Zombie Man 25m 31Another youngster’s effort to leave his mark onthe Perth scene. Many of the holds have beenpulled down by abseiler’s feet.Tim Deijkers Mar 05Ersatz 25m 30Many holds have broken off since the firstascent and it is probably unclimbable. A creditto Boyd’s talent.Boyd MacNamara

B

HATSC ZM E

BCP



* Striding Edge 25m 17RIt was a true test piece in its day but now compromised by the bolts on Strider.This climb is still unprotected until a bolt on Strider is reached around the edge.Start up the sharp grey arete R of the red slab of Tramlines. Onto the wall andmove R to the arete, then climb this to stance. Move R, up and across steep wallto finish up crack. DBB at top.Michael Adams, Tony Fowler early 70sStrider 25m 18A tricky start below the first BR, then directly up the arete with thin holds and

more BRs. Finish as for Striding Edge. Second bolt is badly placed, but can bereached by piking out to the R.T.Murray, B.Watson May 97Striding Edge Direct 25m 17A trad climb now spoilt by the bolts on the arete to L. Up short wall then climb Ltrending flake to join Striding Edge. Ignore the gumby bolts and climb in theoriginal spirit.Unknown early 70sShrapnel 25m 19The bolted line between Striding Edge Direct and Gun Barrel Highway. Climb toledge at half height via the groove or blocky buttress, then straight up to L ofrevolver shaped rock past 3 BRs. There is a huge and very dangerous looseblock down low, and up high the crux holds have broken off – NOTRECOMMENDED.T.Murray, B.Watson May 97Gun Barrel Highway 25m 16R Not on topo At base of small buttress beneath revolver shaped rock at 2/3 height. From Lcorner of buttress trend R then onto slab above buttress to belay. Up crack thenR to corner at R edge of revolver. Up corner then mantle onto ledge (crux). Moveslightly R then finish L.

S

S

SEDSE



*** Morning Glor 20m 17



SG

HCQ

KR

BNO

BP

MG

*** Morning Glory 20m 17Classic bolted arête climbing to the loweroff. Most stepleft at the last bolt to easier terrain before going up tothe loweroff. Staying strictly on the arête above the lastbolts earns you an extra grade or two and some puckerfactor.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90** Stolen Glory 15m 22Requires some finesse, if you're clumsy it could be

easy 23. A good climb. Start between MG and BNO.Up past 5 bolts to a lower off above the miniarete/corner. There are 2 other bolts to the right of thisline below the first bolt of BNO. We did not place themand we didn't write on the rock near the loweroff.Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill Feb 07Bonking Penguins 22 15 mJoins the dots right of SG and trespasses all over BNO.Start about 1 m to the right of SG and L of BNO. Up tothe bolt about 2 m to the right of the first SG bolt. Thenup and clip the ‘Bonk Night Out’ bolt. Then up againclipping whatever bolts you like to the loweroff. Stayright and out of the tiny corner that is SG. Contrivedeven more so than most routes. Superfluous bolt existsbetween SG first bolt and this route’s first bolt. i.e themiddle of three bolts roughly aligned horizontally.Phillip Calais, Matthew Hobby, Feb 07* Bonk Night Out 20m 23Start 3m L of Hipster Crack. Climb to high BR on blankwall (reachy clip). Continue L up overhanging bulge(crux) to second BR and on to arete to finish upMorning Glory. Best finished up SG these days. Youcan also clip the first bolt of Bonking Penguins.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90*** Kid Rock 14m 17Starts just left of HC. Excellent balancy climbing up thecorner and a pumpy finish makes this a super route.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03** Hipster Crack 20m 15The prominent corner-crack R of Bonk Night Out. Niceclimbing to loweroff. FA unknown.Quickie 11m 16Climbs the face R of HC. Kind of hard if you are abeginner.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03Child’s Play 12m 14R edge of wall with HC and Q. A bit of gear or two ishandy as you climb the cracked corner and arête tobelay on Q.

Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03Trog 18m 11 Not on topo Around the corner from Hipster Crack is a shallowcave. Bridge the groove of the cave. Break out L toshort wall to join the dirt exit of Hipster Crack.Michael Adams, John Watson & Co. early 70s

CP

stathams_quarry_miniguide2008

Documents