C h o r l e y w o o d

S t a t e m e n t o f I n t e n t

A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 0 1 5 - 1 6

‘ W e s i n a s d e v i l s d o , W e l o v e a s a n g e l s ’

S t a t e m e n t o f i n t e n tC o n t e n t s

Design Philosophy

Gluttony

Knit & Minimal Waste

Colour Story & Fabric

Existence

Detailing

Competitors

04061117212325

Customer

Muse

Styling

Illustrators & Artists

Photography

Graphic Identity

293139434953

D e s i g n p h i l o s o p h yM y v i e w a n d o p i n i o n

Chorley Wood due to graduate from Sheffield Hallam in 2015 is a Yorkshire born Womenswear Designer.

From an early age she knew her career path. Chorley Wood reflects a sense of youth and fun with innovative designs. With a plain and simple image herself, she aims to create comfortable unrestricted pieces

that are relaxed and wearable. Her garments tell deep and meaningful stories imitated using playful, bouncy

and lively shapes. Her mission is to support high-end fashion that is manufactured in the UK. To have winter

wear that can continue to be worn into future winters. Why are you only fashionable if you follow trends? Her

opinion is that you should be able to wear what you like, when you like. .

S o m e t i m e s t h e S T R U G G L E , I s w h a t m a k e s t h e S U C C E S S , e v e n S W E E T E R

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We sin as devils do; we love as angels-Fall Star, is an Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Womenswear collection. It is the

exploration of some; humans need to overindulge in anything and everything. Gluttony extends far beyond

the table; it is an all-consuming addiction to always wanting more. This collection reflects a sense of youth imitated using playful, bouncy and lively shapes. We are never satisfied, we always want more. What if our sin

is not that we have loved the material things of this world too much? What if our sin is that we have loved

them too little and in the wrong ways? (Stone 2013)

G l u t t o n y‘ W e s i n a s d e v i l s d o , w e l o v e a s a n g e l s ’

B e c a r e f u l w i t h w h a t e v e r , o r w h o e v e r ,

y o u a l l o w y o u r s e l f t o b e c o n s u m e d b y .

05 06C - H e ads Magaz i n e

Asger C ar l s e n - G l u t t o n y i n s p i r e d s c u l p t u r es

L uc i a n F r e ud

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Nanna v a n B l a a d eren - E x a ggera t e d K n i t w e a r

k n i t & M i n i m a l w a s t eThis graduate collection aims to show how knitted elements can add a minimal waste concept to a

womenswear collection that will fall into a luxury target market. Waste in garment manufacture continues to

be an issue in the fashion industry. Research into technology, handcraft and designers gave valuable avenues

and inspiration that was incorporated into this collection. There are three construction methods when

creating knitted garments; cut and sew, shaping and seamless. Seamless knitting produces 0% waste. Knitwear

is an essential that feeds into every Autumn Winter trend. Integrating minimal waste, as a concept into this

collection gives it a strong ethical starting point, aesthetics stem from the theme, colour and trend, which

make it unique. Incorporating hand knitted elements, with digitally and screen-printed knit supports the minimal

waste in knit concept. Wadded knits take on restricted forms for creating the consuming appearance. Knitted

accessories surface appeal, intrigue and delight with stimulating designs that create a sense of fun and play.

C o n c e p t o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n

S A V I N G T H E W O R L D K N I T , B Y K N I T .

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K n i t w e a r i s u n i v e s a l -e v e r y o n e w e a r s i t i n s o m e f o r m , ( S a n d y B l a c k , 2002)

Mark F a s t C ra i g L a wrence WGSN

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T h e r e a s o n w h y m a n i s n e v e r s a t i s f i e d ,

i s t h a t h e i s u n c o n s c i o u s l y

s t r i v i n g f o r p e r f e c t i o n-Volume VI - The Alchemy of Happiness

The colours link in with the theme sins. Focusing purely on Gluttony. The colours replicate the naked skin in

various scenarios. Pinks link with strained and stretched skin, abuse and bruising of the skin. The effects on

the skin from obesity, leaving it marked and blemished. These shades of pinks and subtle hints of ivory also

show different skin tones. Along with a contrasting mint blue and navy to mimic veins.The collection is a mix

of creative pattern cutting techniques to create oversized silhouettes, portraying the varacious image of

man, along side simplistic fitted pieces to create the illusion of a larger than life silhouette. The fabrics in the

collection include warm and heavy 100% wools, and wool blends, jersey knits and cottons that are soft on the

skin making these appropriate fabrics for Autumn/Winter weathers.

A u t u m n / w i n t e r 2015-16F o c u s i n g p u r e l y o n G l u t t o n y

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50% w

ool 5

0% lin

en

Cotton

Twillill

19

100%

Woo

l

100%

Woo

l

95% C

otto

n 5%

Elas

tane

Scu

ba J

erse

y

100%

Woo

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100%

Poly

este

r

Cotton

Pop

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Cotton

Pop

lin

20

Jers

ey k

nit

Jers

ey k

nit

100%

Woo

l

Quiltin

gW

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The WGSN trend Existence is a construction based trend. Consisting of cropped silhouettes and boxy shapes.

Wide necklines and crewneck style openings. Garments featuring high stand collars and ribbed necklines. Quilted

elements add structure.

e x i s t e n c eW G S N T r e n d

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L i z a S chwab

Acne The R o w P re - F a l l 2 0 1 5

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d e t a i l i n gI n s p i r a t i o n

Oversized slouch inseam pockets and hip pockets to add a gluttonous image. Functional zip pockets on coats

and jackets, safer option for these particular garments. Feature seams on specific pieces that help the silhouette, and keep a constant connection within the collection. Tight cuffs to emphasis the sleeve definition,

which portrays a more overconsuming look.

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The R o w

Ma i s o n Mar t i n Marg i e l a

C r a i g L a wrence

The competitors for the collection ’We sin as devils do, we love as angels’ have similarities, they have

attention to detail. They use knit as a key element and work with silhouette that isn’t just the ordinary. Innovative work from Craig Lawrence shows his sophisticated, playful and elegant Flair. The collections are

remarkable for their craftsmanship and individuality. Mark Fast designs his knits by hand on a domestic

knitting machine. His work is formed onto the body as he knits. He has devised innovative stitching techniques,

blending Lycra with the finest luxurious yarns creating new exciting textures. Additionally Margiela garments

play with volume, modified shapes, masculine, feminine, oversized and undersized pieces. The Row’s latest collection involves a lot of oversized knit with dramatic neckpieces. Chorley Wood features similar qualities to

these designers, constantly striving for new contemporary designs. Stocking in Harvey Nichols and Selfridges

these garments are new and original to keep up with the competition.

C o m p e t i t o r sL u x u r y R e a d y - t o - W e a r

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Cra i g L a wrence

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The customer is young and expressive, she likes to be noticed and stand out. She’s seductive but sophisticated attracting attention from people around her. She enjoys socialising and attending events. Her

career is very competitive; working as a graphic designer for a magazine alongside working on advertising

campaigns. Additionally she is a creative individual that is prepared to experiment with her clothing, willing to try

new things, push boundaries and leave her comfort zone. She appreciates the concept behind the designs.

She embraces freedom and thrives on making everyday new and exciting being productive, and interested in

various fitness activities.

C u s t o m e rY o u n g a n d E x p r e s s i v e

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Char l o t t e F r ee

c h a r l o t t e f r e eM u s e

Charlotte Free born: June 22, 1993 (age 21), Los Angeles, California, United States. She was discovered whilst

playing video games in an arcade. She has featured in magazines such as I-D, Dazed and Confused, British

Vogue and Brazilian Vogue ETC. ’I like to act like a kid’ her free spirit and mentality is inspiring. Karl Lagerfeld

’captured her as a mischievous young woman in a romantico-rock ambiance bursting with audacity’. Chorley Wood reflects youth and fun in her innovative designs, imitated using playful, bouncy and lively shapes.

Charlotte Free is the epitome of this portraying the perfect image.

‘ I l i k e t o a c t l i k e a k i d ’

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POM G I R L

O B SCURE C O UTURE

P O M G I R L cater to every kind of girl with a little something for everyone, with nostalgic inspired products to,

imaginative dreamy pieces. Pom Girl aims to add a fun aspect to fashion giving girls the freedom to

embrace their inner fun and playful side. Pom girls are fun, collective individuals with a creative love for

fashion, life & dressing for themselves!

O B S C U R E C O U T U R E is dedicated to being 100% original, being 100% creative and letting you be 100% what ever

you want. Every season they bring you new pieces to express yourself. Be girlie, be fun, be sexy, be slouchy,

be crazy, but always be hardcore.

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S t y l i n g i n s p i r a t i o nS t y l i s t s

‘ F u n , c o l l e c t i v e i n d i v i d u a l ’ s w i t h a c r e a t i v e l o v e f o r f a s h i o n , l i f e &

d r e s s i n g f o r t h e m s e l v e s ’

POM G I R L

O B SCURE C O UTURE

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S t y l i n g i n s p i r a t i o nH a i r & M a k e - u p

The braids are inspired by the knit concept. Braids are youthful and playful. The messy, backcombed look is

minimal for lookbook but playing with volume when changing to editorial. The style links with the overconsuming

image-the always wanting more. Make-up is subtle but effective for lookbook using the same complimentary

tones as the editorial look. Statement look for editorial photoshoot using flattering shades to tie in with the collection.

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Naran j a l i d a d - F a sh i o n I l l u s t r a t o r

Le i g h V i n e r - F a sh i o n I l l u s t r a t o r

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I l l u s t r a t o r s & A r t i s t sI n s p i r a t i o n

I llustrator L e i g h V i n e r , C e d r i c R i v r a i n a n d N a r a n j a l i d a d have a distinctive style, using pencil to create detailed portrait illustrations. Minimal colour is used. Detail is important when portraying such a strong

message. Intricate drawings display emotion accurately.

J E N N Y S A V I I L E & L U C I A N F R U E D are gluttony inspired artistsA S G E R C A R L S O N is a gluttony inspired sculptor

‘ I w a n t t o b e a p a i n t e r o f m o d e r n l i f e , a n d m o d e r n b o d i e s ’ -Jenny Saville

Cedr i c R i v r a i n - F a sh i o n I l l u s t r a t o r

Asger C ar l s e n - G l u t t o n y i n s p i r e d s c u l p t u r es

Jen ny S a v i l l e - G l u t t o n y i n s p i r e d p a i n t i n g s

L uc i a n F r ued - G l u t t o n y i n s p i r e d p a i n t i n g s

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P h o t o g r a p h yI n s p i r a t i o n

The work of Jeff Henrikson is clean and crisp. The style is great for capturing detail and focusing on what is

important. Use of light backgrounds and black boarders gives a professional finish.

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graphic identity, layout• PromotionalLiterature

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p r o m o t i o n a l l i t e r a t u r eI n s p i r a t i o n

Consistency is important; keeping the same layout throughout is vital. Professional image and finish is key to a successful project. Using the black boarders frequently with clean and crisp images. Pages should be

minimal, containing only the most appropriate content; this will ensure a better flowing document. A feature

sheet on different paper or material after the main page is very effective, it ties in the project even more

linking the document to the collection print.