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TASTE ONTARIO

FOR CHEF KEVIN MCKENNA OF SOUTH POND

FARMS, eating local isn’t a trend – it’s alifestyle.

“I believe in what I put out, and I believe inour local providers and suppliers,” said Mr.McKenna, who started working for the FeastOn-certified restaurant, working farm andculinary learning centre in Bethany Hills abouta year ago.

“We try to showcase the bounty of our

farm and our land,” he says. “My specialty issourcing out local ingredients and the best Ican find in the area. I don’t serve ocean fishanymore, only Ontario lake fish – it’s Kawar-tha-Peterborough first, then Ontario, thenCanada, almost nothing from anywhere else.Black peppercorns don’t grow here, but weget our salt from Windsor, and I don’t useolive oil at all.”

Mr. McKenna also forages for food to use inhis dishes, from wild leeks and fiddleheads tospruce tips, morel mushrooms and wild straw-berries. Using whatever is in season and foundlocally, he creates country farmhouse suppers(twice a month, seasonally) in a restored barn,

served family-style – such as local lamb with awild-leek pesto and organic red-quinoa pilafwith dried cherries from Niagara.

South Pond also offers full-moon suppersand farmhouse feasts in the wintertime, usingpickled and cellared products, as well asthemed workshops such as bread-baking.

“I write the menu as close to the dinners aspossible,” said Mr. McKenna. “I have to seewhat Mother Nature gives me – I’m at hermercy. I can’t put asparagus on the menu ifit’s not growing, because I will not use aspara-gus from the U.S. or Mexico.”

In the region, there are several ways tocelebrate local eats, from berry picking (start-

ing mid-June) to the Incredible Edibles Festivalon July 14 in Campbellford, Trent Hills, whichfeatures local specialties from more than 35chefs and vendors. Farm to Table Peterbo-rough also operates walking tours in Peterbo-rough, telling the story of local food cultureand locally sourced foods.

Nearby, in Ontario’s Central Counties –which encompasses York and Durham – localfood is featured in Feast On restaurants, aprovince-wide certification program that recog-nizes businesses committed to sourcing Onta-rio-grown (or made) food and beverages.

TAKING A BITE OUT OF ONTARIO

Eating local is more than a trendfor these chefs and restaurants

LOCAL, E6

MANY ONTARIANS MIGHT NOT

KNOW about the Ontario Temper-ance Act, passed in 1916, whichprohibited the sale of alcohol in theprovince.

This summer, Central CountiesTourism is taking everyone back tothat age with a fully interactive foodand spirits tour called Temperanceand Temptation.

There will be three self-guidedtours in all (Durham region and Yorkregion, starting July 2, and a Head-waters Tourism region tour that startsJuly 28 – tagged with the opening ofa temperance exhibition there – inone of the original hotels wherepeople drank), all of which will takepeople through a rich history oftemperance and bootlegging in theregion.

Drive times between stops will befull of stories via an app availablefrom Google Play or iTunes. At everystop along the way, participants cansample the fantastic food and drinkcreated and served. As well as themany restaurants and propertiestaking part in the tour, eight alcoholproducers will participate, includingLast Straw Distillery, Galluci Winery,Holland Marsh Wineries, Grand SpiritsDistillery and Old Flame Brewing Co.

Chuck Thibeault, executive directorof Central Counties Tourism, says theidea for the tour was born threeyears ago when they were in Union-

ville doing a travel show with a filmcrew and talking with a local historianat a train station. The train, Mr.Thibeault was told, never went toUnion Station, but only to the Distill-ery District in Toronto to pick upingredients for booze during prohib-ition. Mr. Thibeault hired a researcherwho uncovered countless stories ofbootlegging and temperance andtemptation, and from that came a

rich tapestry to weave together atour (such as the famed Foster family,who used canals in Holland Marsh tocircumvent the authorities to run rumup and down the waterways).

“Tour participants will be givencode words, so at restaurant andbrewery or winery stops peoplethere will know who they are, andthey will be given special samples,”Mr. Thibeault says.

Summer is a wonderful time ofthe year for food- and spirits-relatedexperiences such as this one. A lot ofpeople are jumping on board.

“I think as a province, we’ve beenstruggling to figure out what definesour food culture, what it means toeat [and drink!] well here,” saysAgatha Podgorski, director of com-munity engagement for CulinaryTourism Alliance. “It feels like we’ve

finally hit our stride. There are literallydozens of amazing, delicious experi-ences happening in Ontario, everyweekend. From self-guided trails toonce-in-a-lifetime pop-ups and eventsthat take your breath away, there isno better time to taste your wayacross our enormous province.”

One of the unique experiencesMs. Podgorski mentioned was diningclose to Niagara Falls – Elements onthe Falls, for example, which com-bines the drama of sitting at thebrink of Horseshoe Falls with ex-quisite food that is locally sourcedand internationally inspired.

Elements on the Falls is part ofthe Niagara Parks’ culinary depart-ment.

“We want to tell that local foodstory,” says Ryan Moran, seniormanager of marketing for the Niag-ara Parks Commission. “That’s acommon theme, if you want thattruly unique experience.”

That of course includes food andalcohol. Black Creek Pioneer Villageoffers beer tasting with a historictwist – sampling a variety of beerstyles in a heritage-inspired brewery,while listening to a beer expertdiscuss the history of beer and beerlovers in 19th-century Ontario. Thebeer is brewed using techniques andrecipes from that time period.

Black Creek Pioneer Village offers beer tasting with a historic twist, providing samples of a variety of beer styles brewed using recipes from the 19th century. BLACK CREEK PIONEER VILLAGE

DISCOVER

UNFORGETTABLE

FLAVOUR

IN YOUR OWN

BACKYARDFrom self-guided tours to restaurant cooking classes,

there’s something for every palate in Ontario

EXPERIENCE, E5

E2 G THE GLOBE AND MAIL . | SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 2018

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WITH ITS EVER-GROWING BREWERY

AND CULINARY SCENE, LONDON,

continues to carve a name for itselfas one of the Southwestern Ontario’smost revered and savoury hot spots.

The city is enjoying a culinaryboom, offering a treasure trove ofbistros, cafés and eateries, each withits own fare and flair.

The Forest City is home to anumber of up-and-coming establish-ments including: Craft Farmacy, acraft beer and oyster bar with arustic, farm-to-table style; Nite OwlCocktail Bar, where visitors can enjoyan evening of drinks and live music;and El Furniture Warehouse, knownfor its $5.95 menu.

For something a little different, tryFresno’s – the Italian table delightswith fresh, handmade pasta andhearty sandwiches, from their familyto yours, while Forrat’s ChocolateLounge has expanded into theMasonville area with decadentdelights, as well as savoury servingsto tempt any palate.

And then there’s the beer. Afterlaunching this spring, SmackwaterJack’s PedalPub has made its way tothe city’s Old East Village, touring thehottest craft breweries, including theLondon Brewing Co-op, AndersonCraft Ales, and the area’s newestaddition, Powerhouse Brewing Co.

The party bike with a barrel is saysto be the first of its kind in Ontario’sSouthwest, and, in addition to brew-ery stops, will highlight a number oflocal vendors with pop-up offerings,from Toboggan Brewing Co. andRailway City Brewing Co. of St.Thomas.

While similar rigs have been seenacross the United States and Europefor years, Ontario liquor laws don’tallow guests to drink while on thebike – in this case, the barrel is justdecorative.

If wine is more your speed, RushCreek Wines and Quai Du Vin EstateWinery can be found just a stone’sthrow away in Elgin County.

Heading west, and found on thesame latitudinal plain as NorthernCalifornia, Ontario’s Blue Coast is alsohome to a rapidly expanding wineregion, as well as a bustling foodscene, right in the heart of LambtonCounty.

From the seasonal offerings ofPurdy’s Dockside Eatery in PointEdward to Grand Bend’s SmackwaterJack’s and Sarnia’s Paddy Flaherty’sIrish Pub, guests can enjoy every-thing from fresh-caught lake fish tothe most famous French fries in theworld, while relaxing at any numberof lakeside dining establishmentsalong the coast.

For more information on allSouthwestern Ontario has to offer,visit ontariossouthwest.com andlondontourism.ca.

A CULINARY AWAKENING IN SOUTHWESTERN ONTARIOFrom beer to bistros,London revels in its hot-spot status

Top: Smackwater Jack’s PedalPub, which launched this spring, has made its way to London’s Old East Village, touring the hottest

craft breweries. Above: Locally sourced food is a mainstay of many of London’s bistros, cafés and eateries.

PHOTOS COURTESY WHITNEY SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST ONTARIO TOURISM CORPORATION

HERE’S A TRIVIA QUESTION FOR

YOU: In what area of Canada wasthe country’s first commercial estatewinery located? If you guessed PeleeIsland, just off the shores of LakeErie, you would be correct.

The Essex Pelee Island Coast(EPIC) runs along the same latitudinalline as similarly fertile lands in theMediterranean, and features the mostheat units in Canada (also known asgrower degree days, a calculation offavourable days for plant devel-opment in ideal temperatures).Currently trending with millennialwine lovers and foodies, it seemsappropriate that Canada’s hottestwine region rests on its hottest land.

YOUR EPIC PASSPORT AWAITS

For food and wine connoisseurs, oreven those looking for a weekendout of town, the EPIC wineriespassport provides an inexpensivegateway to family fun. Visits – forcouples, families, and even largegroups – can be arranged via variousmeans of transport, explains Lyn-nette Bain, vice-president of TourismWindsor-Essex Pelee Island. “Wheth-er by bike, trolley or car,” she says,“a tour of Canada’s hottest wineregion has so much to offer wineand food enthusiasts.”

Ms. Bain gave us a sampling ofwhat awaits:

Sprucewood Shores is “Ontario’sonly beachfront winery,” says Ms.Bain. “You can enjoy a gourmetpicnic basket on the shores of LakeErie.” sprucewoodshores.com

Viewpointe Estate Winery offersfine wine with culinary diversityamid a panoramic view of Lake Erie.

A full slate of activities will keep youbusy, including estate tours, cookingclasses and, of course, many oppor-tunities for wine tasting. viewpointewinery.com

Muscedere Vineyards, a family-run operation located on their 163-acre property, is known for its wood-fired pizza and Italian Old Worldwine. Since planting began in 2003,the Muscederes have overseen theemergence of an array of wines,including Vidal, Riesling and Ca-bernet Franc, Pinot noir, Syrah,Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotgrigio, Sauvignon Blanc and more. muscederevineyards.com

North 42 Degrees Estate Wineryboasts a vine-side dining experiencein their brand-new building perchedoverlooking their acres on the 42ndparallel, sharing comparable latitudewith notable wine-growing regionssuch as Tuscany, Barcelona andBordeaux. north42degree.com

Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards is aless formal, family-friendly winery,

featuring The Vines Restaurant, pluswagon rides through the vineyards,a gorgeous amphitheatre for livemusic and events. “They’re reallyfocused on family,” says Ms. Bain. coopershawkvineyards.com

Each participating winery featuresspecial offers and enticements tomake your experience as full andmemorable as possible. Sure, youcan stay for an afternoon and have agreat time, but if you want to pro-long your getaway, an EPIC passportprovides entry into an ever-ripeningworld of the tastiest food, drink,accommodation and fun. There’s allmanner of picturesque places to stay,from quaint little B&Bs and cottagesto lavish country manors, inns andhotels. Activities in the area arevirtually limitless, but a quick listincludes golfing, museums, parksand, you guessed it, wine tours.

For more information on Windsor-Essex wine country and EPIC pass-ports, visit epicwineries.com andvisitwindsoressex.com.

The Essex Pelee Island Coast (EPIC) runs along the same latitudinal line as similarly fertile lands in the Mediterranean. SOUTHWEST ONTARIO TOURISM CORPORATION

TAKE AN EPIC TOUR OF WINE COUNTRY THIS SUMMER Whether you’re talkingtemperature orpopularity, Essex PeleeIsland Coast is home toCanada’s hottest vintners

“Whether by bike,

trolley or car, a

tour of Canada’s

hottest wine

region has so

much to offer

wine and food

enthusiasts.

Lynnette Bain

Tourism Windsor-Essex

Pelee Island

PAID POST BROUGHT TO YOU BY ONTARIO’S SOUTHWEST

SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 2018 | THE GLOBE AND MAIL . G E3

SPONSOR CONTENT

TASTE TRAILS, SELF-GUIDED EXPEDI-

TIONS into the heart of a region’sfood and drink culture, are a great wayto sample the flavours of the prov-ince. Here are some culinary adventur-es you can go on this season.

STRATFORD CHOCOLATE TRAIL

Does anything sound better than achocolate trail? This tour introducesyou to some of Stratford’s finestconfectioners and bakers. For $30,you get a pass that enables you tosample a variety of decadent treatsand meet the people who handcraftthese delectables. A Chocolate Trailpass can be purchased in person atthe Stratford Tourism office; it includesvouchers entitling you to your choiceof six stops on the self-guided tour.The trail is offered year-round. BlackAngus Bakery and Catering in Strat-ford has 21 varieties of its signatureshortbread, from traditional to Skorbits, orange cranberry, cherry almondand chocolate-dipped coffee. Choco-late Barr’s Candies has 12 flavours ofhandmade truffles, including honeyand black pepper, lavender, cherryliqueur and hazelnut truffle. RheoThompson Candies, a local shopthat’s been in the candy-makingbusiness for 40 years, has 100 differ-ent kinds of chocolaty treats, in-cluding a decadent dark-chocolate-and-mint smoothie.

SAVOUR STRATFORD

BACON & ALE TRAIL

Stratford sits in the heart of Ontario’slargest pork-producing region. Thearea is home to a host of renownedcraft brewers, too, such as Shak-espeare Brewing Company, withsmall-batch seasonal artisanal beers,and Black Swan Brewing Co., ownedand operated by two Stratford en-trepreneurs whose motto is “drinkbetter beer.” The self-guided Bacon &Ale Trail ($30, passes available online)includes five stops at restaurants andretail locations offering bacon-and-ale-

inspired treats, plus opportunities tovisit with some of the Stratford area’sculinary stars. The tour is availableyear-round. Explore the world of craftmicro-brewing at Black Swan’s tap-room, with a mini tasting flight of fourseasonal craft beers, and take home agrowler or two to share with friends.Then stop in at Mercer Beer Hall +Kitchen + Hotel for a comparisontasting of two styles of artisan baconpaired with a six-ounce glass of localcraft beer.

BLUE MOUNTAIN APPLE PIE TRAIL

Apple pie is only the beginning onthis culinary adventure. South Ge-orgian Bay has a rich apple-growinghistory, and this self-guided tourcelebrates that past while reinterpret-ing the apple for the 21st century.There is so much to see and do onthis tour, with 40 trail stops to ex-plore, it’s recommended visitors makea two-day plan out of it. You’ll want tovisit Grandma Lambe’s, and dig in toone of their famous pies, handmadein-house from local orchard applesand a secret family recipe that’s beenhanded down through generations.After getting your pie on, head toThornbury Village Cidery, which craftsits ciders amid 7,500 acres of orchardsin the heart of apple country.

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

TASTE TRAIL

Prince Edward County is Ontario’sgastronomic capital, and the area livesand breathes the artisanal way of life.Stops on this self-guided trail includeAgrarian Market, which has live musicon Friday and Saturday evenings anda large patio with lounge seating. Icecream lovers will want to head toSlickers, whose all natural artisan icecream is handmade daily in smallbatches using fresh local ingredients,such as rich cream, cherries, rasp-berries, strawberries, pumpkins andgrapes. Fifth Town Artisan Cheese –whose family has roots in the cheese-making business that go back toParma, Italy – will satisfy your cheesedesires with fresh chèvre and rindbries made from locally sourced freshgoat and water-buffalo milk.

HAPPY TASTE TRAILS

Go on a culinaryexpedition this summer

Top: Visit Chocolate Barr’s Candies on

the Stratford Chocolate Trail to sample 12

flavours of handmade truffles, including

honey and black pepper, lavender,

cherry liqueur, and hazelnut truffle. Left:

Mercer Beer Hall + Kitchen + Hotel is

one of five stops on the Savour Stratford

Bacon and Ale Trail, in the heart of

Ontario’s largest pork-producing region.

STRATFORD TOURISM

E4 G THE GLOBE AND MAIL . | SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 2018

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WHEN IT COMES TO DINING AT AN

ONTARIO RESORT, we want it all –an enjoyable atmosphere, whetherthat be casual, elegant or anythingin between and delectable menuchoices featuring local fare, all atdifferent price points.

For many resorts, though, cre-ating unique experiences involvescombining gourmet cuisine andadventure activities that can one-upthem over other resorts in competi-tion for the travel-industry dollar.

Here are a few favourites:

ELMHIRST RESORT AND SPA

Farm-to-table ethic, VQA winetasting, craft-beer partnerships,cooking classes, barbecue on theboardwalk, fishing packages –Elmhirst in the Kawarthas is wellknown for their “signature experi-

ences.” These include a floatplanetour over Rice Lake followed bylunch overlooking the lake, and aLocavore Luncheon menu featuringfresh local ingredients from theElmhirst farm or local providers. Thisyear, Elmhirst has partnered withWestben Centre for Connection andCreativity through Music as part ofWestben’s Dare to Pair series ofevents. Elmhirst will be hosting aDine with the Don event on July 7after their performance of DonGiovanni – including an opera-

inspired menu paired with winesfrom Huff Estates. Also look out forthe 295 Block Party – a celebrationof food grown and raised in thelocal 295 phone exchange, cookedwith traditional methods such asopen flames and smokers. elm-hirst.ca

FLY AND DINE

Okay, so this one isn’t a resort, butit’s cool nonetheless – while stayingat a local resort in the Muskoka andGeorgian Bay region, allow GeorgianBay Airways to take you up in oneof their float planes for a touraround 30,000 Islands, then theywill whisk you for lunch at Henry’sFish Restaurant, located on FryingPan Island near Sans Souci. “We geta lot of people from cottages, andthe cities,” Andrea Hardy of Ge-orgian Bay Airlines says about theFly and Dine program. “We aregetting a lot of tourists from Europenow, people celebrating birthdaysand anniversaries. Henry’s is verypopular, so we’re kind of like theshuttle.” Henry’s is reopening thisseason with new ownership. ge-orgianbayairways.com

DRAKE DEVONSHIRE

Says Paula Desjardins, the hotel’smanager, about one of the newerofferings in Prince Edward County:“We know travellers are looking forspecial, memorable experienceswhen they travel, whether that’sthrough food, drink, art, culture orcommunity.” The Drake offers guestsoutside-the-box packages for explor-ing the beautiful region of PrinceEdward County and enjoying theregion’s delicious food and drinkofferings, that are made with localingredients wherever possible. Partof Drake Hotel Properties (includingthe iconic Drake on Queen Street inToronto), some of the experientialoptions this summer include Pints+Paddles, a 1.5 to 2.5-hour kayak orcanoe excursion, guiding sightingsof migratory birds and other water-fowl, followed by a pint of featurebeer at Drake Devonshire, or theDrake Escape Package featuringaccommodations and bicycles fortwo, with a packed lunch from theDrake kitchen. thedrake.ca

MILLCROFT INN & SPA

Their Culinary Connoisseur packageremains a popular one for guestsduring the summer months, pairinga three-course dinner at HeadwatersRestaurant with an overnight stayand full access to all activities andamenities – including outdoor yogaon the grounds next to the fouroutdoor hot pools, guided forestwalk tours on 100 acres of woods

and complimentary mountain bikerentals. “Having a 100-acre forest toplay in helps burn off some of thebutter and cream from dinner!”innkeeper Bill Cutt says. Millcroft islocated in Caledon. millcroft.com

MATTAWA RIVER RESORT

Cottages and cabins situated amid amuch-loved eco-tourism resort, farremoved from the urban grind,Mattawa is a great destination for asummer respite, and dining is acentral attraction. Signatures includefood off the grill – hand-trimmedsteak, pan-seared catch-of-the-day,pork, chicken, ribs, and organicveggies grown locally. The activitiesavailable around the dining arenumerous – fishing in the MattawaRiver, horseback riding, paddleboards, nature hikes, and more. “Allour food is handmade, nothing isfrozen,” owner Nicole Grigorov says.“We use only the freshest, purestingredients, bought locally.” Foryounger campers, Ms. Grigorovpoints to kid-friendly dishes such asmade-to-order mini pizzas, juicyhotdogs and hand-tossed chickennuggets.mattawariverresort.com

JW MARRIOTT THE ROSSEAU

MUSKOKA

Guests naturally prefer to stay closeto the water during the summermonths, so a popular programcombining tasty cuisine with out-door activities is lunch or dinner atThe Deck, the resort’s lakesidebistro. After a day of boating, canoe-ing, kayaking or paddle boating,guests can seamlessly move overfor a thin-crust pizza from the wood-burning stone oven. The MuskokaChophouse offers a classic steak-house experience, including greatfood featuring certified Angus beefwith a curated wine list. One note-worthy, after-dinner private groupexperience is a session out on theresort’s terrace with astronomer andnaturalist Robin Tapley, who, withthe aid of a Meade 12-inch LX 200Schmidt Cassegrain telescope,identifies constellations, planets andcelestial wonders in the night sky.Guests are invited to grab a cognacand head out on a beautiful night.therosseau.com

ALLISTON

The Nottawasaga Inn Resort inAlliston is a popular destination,particularly for golf enthusiasts (45holes within the beautiful Nottawa-saga Valley), with the downtownarea becoming a popular spot forquality dining options. DaGraziaRistorante is a newer, upscale restau-rant, featuring fine Italian cuisine –situated right across from the CircleTheatre (built in 1938, and still show-ing prime movies) – and BistroSeven Seven, next to the railwaytracks, serving French cuisine, re-mains a popular choice. The AllistonBIA has been pushing for blendingthe downtown and rural areas moreeffectively. “Rural and urban areintegrating creative new kinds ofbalanced living spaces, blending thevalues of both worlds into one,”Linda Spurr, general manager of theAlliston BIA says. Alliston is a grow-ing town, combining everything abigger city has to offer, such as finedining and boutiques, with a friend-ly small-town atmosphere. rurban.ca

Guests can grab a cognac and head out to the terrace at JW Marriott The Rosseau Muskoka with astronomer Robin Tapley, who identifies celestial wonders in the night sky. JW MARRIOT THE ROSSEAU MUSKOKA

DINNER, WITH A SIDE OF ATMOSPHEREFrom fly-in dining to Don Giovanni, resortsin Ontario are catering to taste and experience

Left: Georgian Bay Airways will fly you to Henry’s Fish Restaurant on Frying Pan Island in a float plane. Right: The Culinary

Connoisseur package at Millcroft Inn and Spa is a guest favourite. PHOTOS: GEORGIAN BAY AIRWAYS; MILLCROFT INN AND SPA

“Having a 100-acre

forest to play in

helps burn off

some of the butter

and cream from

dinner!

Bill Cutt

Millcroft Inn and Spa

395 Sandy Hook Road

Picton, ON, K0K 2T0

613-476-7492

800-621-4956

info@waringhouse.com

www.waringhouse.com

Dine in the casual ambience of the Barley Room, a tra-

ditional style pub, serving food that has been created

by our talented culinary team. The Barley Room offers

a wide range of craft and domestic beers, local ciders, a

fine collection of single malts whiskies and an exten-

sive wine list. With live entertainment Wednesday

through to Sunday we guarantee you will not be

disappointed!

Amelia’s Garden is our picturesque restaurant

overlooking our beautiful gardens. Within you will

discover seasonal dining at its very best offering fresh

produce sourced from both local food producers and

from our own gardens when available. The perfect place

for a relaxing, intimate dinner.

The Cookery School offers hands-on

classes to all skill levels.

Our talented chef will teach you the ins

and outs of preparing great meals you

will love to present to your friends and

family! Join one of our regularly

scheduled classes or book a private class

for your group.

SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 2018 | THE GLOBE AND MAIL . G E5

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KEVIN DURKEE CONSIDERS HIMSELF

a big cheese. That’s because hispassion for the ooey-gooey stuffknows no bounds.

Mr. Durkee is the co-owner ofCulinary Adventure Co., which includes educational cheese experiences in its tours whereverpossible. (The Toronto-based compa-ny runs tours from Halifax to Winni-peg.)

Mr. Durkee previously was theowner of Cheesewerks, Canada’sonly restaurant dedicated to cheese.He is past chair of the TorontoCheese Guild and was a cheese andbutter judge for several years at theRoyal Agricultural Winter Fair. He’salso been a spokesperson for DairyFarmers of Canada.

So Mr. Durkee knows his cheese,and he absolutely loves the stuff. The amazing thing about it, hepoints out, is that while cheesecomprises just three simple in-gredients – milk, salt and a coag-ulant – almost no other food comesin such a wide variety of tastes andflavours, from an indulgent triplecreme to a gooey gouda to anexotically aromatic blue cheese.

“The nuances in the cheesescome from the individual cheese-makers and their particular process,”Mr. Durkee says.

“I can’t get enough of that story: how something so pure andsimple can be so delicious andpersonal.”

While Ontario hasn’t traditionallyhad a global reputation for itscheeses, the province neverthelessboasts world-class cheese offeringsand experiences. Here’s a look at ahandful of them you can check outthis summer.

CHEESE AND CHEERS TORONTO

Offered by Culinary Adventure Co. onits tour of Toronto’s legendary St.Lawrence Market, this three-hourappreciation of Canadian cheesescovers the various categories andclassifications, and pairs cheeses withtheir perfect drink complements. It’snot just about wine here; sodas alsogo wonderfully with cheese, Mr.Durkee notes.

“The bubbles and fruit flavours ofartisanal sodas have an interestingeffect on ricottas and bries,” and craftbeer, spirits and cocktails also workwell paired with cheese.

“Things that grow together gotogether,” says Mr. Durkee, and the

main rule of pairing is that theintensity of the drink should matchthe intensity of the cheese.

Cheese and Cheers is a deep diveinto the world of cheese, but theprogram is accessible to all. “Wedon’t turn it into a class where it’s allabout numbers and temperatures,”Mr. Durkee says.

“It’s about pairings and the lookand structure of cheese. We’reempowering and educating peopleso when they go to a farmers marketor cheese shop, they know what toask for.”

UPPER CANADA CHEESE

JORDAN STATION, ONT.

Upper Canada Cheese Companyhand crafts its artisanal cheeses usingthe milk of local Niagara RegionGuernsey cows. Each day, this freshand pure milk is transformed intocheeses of unique taste and texture,with a subtle range of flavoursinfluenced by the seasons, forageand feed. The cheeses are aged inUpper Canada’s own cellars untilthey’re ready for retail. The compa-ny’s product embodies the whole-food, farm-to-table ideal, with a

minimum of food processing in-tervention resulting in the purestcheeses possible. Visit Upper Cana-da’s gourmet food and retail store,which is integrated into its cheeseproduction and cellaring facility.Sample hand-crafted cheeses and getcheese-board recommendationsfrom the company’s knowledgeablestaff. Culinary Adventure Co. featuresUpper Canada’s Niagara Gold on itstour of St. Lawrence Market, pairing itwith prosciutto during a market stopat Scheffler’s Delicatessen. “Peoplethink you need to get cheese fromEurope,” says Mr. Durkee, “but Ibelieve the product that Ontario isoffering is far superior.”

BLACK RIVER CHEESE COMPANY

MILFORD, ONT.

Located in the heart of agriculture-rich and foodie-friendly Prince Ed-ward County, Black River CheeseCompany has a history of cheese-making that can be traced back to1901. The company is known forexquisite cheddars and mozzarellas,made using 100-per-cent pure fluidmilk sourced from local dairy farms,with no modified milk ingredients,artificial preservatives or animal

rennet. Black River Cheese can befound across the province in majorgrocery chains, specialty food bou-tiques and health-food stores, andthe company recently joined Onta-rio’s largest dairy co-operative,broadening its reach. The Black RiverCheese retail store, located along thepicturesque banks of the Black River,just outside Milford, is a favouritedestination for Prince Edward Countylocals and visitors alike.

OXFORD COUNTY CHEESE TRAIL

Oxford County has eight cheesecompanies producing 70-plus varie-ties of cheese and dairy products.The Cheese Trail, an expertly curatedlist of 24 stops, features an array ofexperiences with local restaurants,food producers, museums, artisansand boutiques. The Cheese Trail isthe perfect way to spend a pleasantafternoon or weekend in OxfordCounty, and it’s a great option forfamily vacations, with tastes alongthe trail appealing to kids and adultsalike: from indulgent apple-pie-breadgrilled cheese to giant panzerottisand delicious cheese pizzas. Trailstops include Bright Cheese andButter, which was established in 1874,when a group of local farmers estab-lished a cheese factory to turn sur-plus milk into cheddar. More than 140years later, the business is still pro-ducing award-winning cheese at itsfactory in Bright, Ont. Upper ThamesBrewery, Oxford County’s only craftbrewery, serves several core brewsand seasonal brew options that canbe nicely paired with a locally in-spired charcuterie board.

GUNN’S HILL ARTISAN CHEESE

WOODSTOCK, ONT.

Gunn’s Hill owner-operator ShepYsselstein grew up on a dairy farm,then sojourned in the Swiss Alps,where he made cheese, fuelling hispassion and mastering his technique.Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese producesthree hand-crafted Swiss stylecheeses, with milk from the Yssel-stein family’s own dairy farm, Fries-vale Farms, started by Shep’s im-migrant grandfather in the 1950s.Culinary Adventure Co. includesGunn’s Hill’s 5brothers cheese on itstour of Kensington Market in Toronto.This hand-crafted washed-rind cow’smilk cheese, combines traits fromGouda with those of the Swissvariety, Appenzeller, resulting in adelightfully creamy and rich-fla-voured hybrid. Gunn’s Hill, says Mr.Durkee, “is the epitome of what alocal new-generation artisan is allabout.”

SAY CHEESE, PLEASE

Sample Ontario’sworld-class cheese

While Ontario hasn’t traditionally had a global reputation for its cheeses, the province boasts world-class cheese offerings such as

Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese’s hand-crafted Swiss style cheeses. CULINARY ADVENTURE CO.

“It makes for a unique afternoon,” says Wendy Rowney, assistantgeneral manager at Black Creek Pioneer Village. “Visitors tell us thatthey love the flavours of the beers, which are influenced by tradi-tional beer recipes and local ingredients.”

The Kawarthas Northumberland Butter Tart Tour is self-guidedand has grown to include more than 50 locations throughout thearea. Butter Tart Tour stops include local bakeries, cafés and restau-rants, as well as inns and resorts around the region – each servingup their twist on a classic Canadian desert treat. This year, look for anew theme called Arts ‘n Tarts – where local bakers are inspired bylocal artists, artistic traditions and studio tours.

“It’s wild how many people drive for hours to get a butter tartfrom us,” says Jessica Roots, of The Bakery in Warkworth, whopartnered up with Centre and Main Chocolate to make the butter tartchocolate bar as part of the tour. “We try to stay local. The maplesyrup we use in our tarts is local. The butter is local. We wanted toget creative with someone, and we’re just lucky to have a chocola-tier down the street.

“Sometimes it happens that people come in doing the Butter TartTour and we’re sold out of butter tarts. We tell them that they cantake a stroll around town if they like and we’ll have a fresh batchbaked up when they get back. The tarts are like molten lava whenthey get them, but most people are really interested in that.”

The Waring House in Picton offers hands-on cooking classesdesigned to expand one’s culinary repertoire, teaching new tricksand chef techniques. Each class features a particular culinary tech-nique, type of food, region, ingredient or theme – it could becomfort foods, Indian food, cooking with strawberries, homesmoking, too many to name. Again, a theme is using fresh, localingredients, some picked same day from farms down the road fromthe cookery school.

After the class, the chef recommends drinks that would pairnicely with the meal. Then, students can sit down and enjoy whatthey have made with a complimentary beverage.

Experience: Fresh, localingredients shine

FROM PAGE 1

Chefs work with guests during a hands-on cooking school class at the

Waring House in Picton, Ont. PETER LAW/WARING HOUSE

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TED’S RANGE ROAD DINER in Mea-ford is one of those rare Ontariorestaurant destinations where aunique dining experience mixes witha delectable menu featuring localfood items – a place Meaford localslove and flock to, where price pointisn’t an issue.

“It’s unique in the sense that it isnot your traditional brick-and-mortarrestaurant, but an old steel Quonsethut which is spruced up with sidingand a green awning,” says TonyElenis, president and CEO of the

Ontario Restaurant Hotel and MotelAssociation. “They even have livemusic.”

Menu options include catfish,bison strip loin, elk, chops, wildgame stir fry (elk, emu, venison,bison, musk ox, ostrich), even alliga-tor.

Mr. Elenis says it’s one of thosedrive-worthy restaurants that dot theprovince, and summer is a great timeto hop in the car and go on anadventure. Some others that top hislist are: Langdon Hall, in Cambridge;Locale, in King City; Casero Taco Bus,in Sauble Beach; Backhouse, inNiagara-on-the-Lake; South PondFarms, in Pontypool; Spirit TreeCidery, in Caledon; The Iron KettleB&B, in Comber; Drake Devonshire, inWellington; Six Thirty Nine, in Wood-stock; Supply + Demand, in Ottawa;and Inn on the Twenty, in Jordan.

“People should take a short driveand explore the exciting talents andtastes available throughout Ontario’sregions,” says Mr. Elenis.

The Canadian Automobile Associ-ation is another great source for toproad-trip worthy restaurants in Onta-rio. Their top 10 includes:

Fraser Café in Ottawa – a neigh-bourhood culinary mainstay in NewEdinburgh since opening their doorsin 2008.

Riposta Bistro in Campbellville –authentic Italian cuisine prepared theold-fashioned way, including food

sourced from a 2,000-square-footgarden where they grow their ownvegetables.

Langdon Hall in Cambridge – afive-diamond-award-winning restau-rant featuring wholesome naturalproducts from local farmers andartisans.

Quatrefoil in Dundas – a regularon top 10 best new restaurants lists.

Spencer’s on the Waterfront inBurlington – Floor-to-ceiling waterviews, with seafood specialties, andone of the best Sunday brunches inthe province.

Ma Chinese Cuisine in St. Cathar-ines – Hong Kong-style fare includingdim sum dishes served in a modernspace with exposed wooden rafters.

Eigensinn Farm in Grey County –all natural, local products – vegeta-bles from their garden, fish fromGeorgian Bay, livestock, fowl (freerange), certified organic grain.

Antonino’s Original Pizza inWindsor – loyal following of pizzaconnoisseurs in large part because ofa strict adherence to their originalrecipe.

Lancaster Smoke House inKitchener – great southern-stylebarbecue joint, where there’s alwaysa lineup.

Red Rabbit in Stratford – a work-er-owned restaurant situated in theheart of Stratford, with food inspiredby local ingredients and artisanproducts.

IT’S WORTH THE DRIVE TO EAT HERE

“We have about 10 Feast On locationsthat span our region,” says EleanorCook, field manager for Durham withCentral Counties Tourism. “We alsohave fifth-generation farming familieswho are modifying their products tohelp merge with restaurants andchefs and consumers – it’s a reallyexciting time.”

At Landman Gardens and Bakery, aworking farm north of Grand Valley,guests are served farm-to-tabledinners in an authentic dry-stoneblackhouse. The farm also has abakery (using grains grown in Onta-rio) and butcher shop, with pasture-raised chickens, turkeys and pigs.Kendal Hills Game Farm is anotherworking farm on rolling woodland inthe Oak Ridges Moraine, which sellswhat it calls “naturally raised fowl,fungi, foragers and forest food,” withon-farm experiences such as foraging.

The idea is toconnect diners tothe land, whilehonouring localfarmers, says Ms.Cook. It’s also achance for themto discover localwines, beer, ciderand spirits thatcan’t be found atthe LCBO. Archi-bald Orchardsand Estate Winery, for example, has“amazing award-winning ciders,” shesays. “They produce cider in glassbottles like wine – it’s the best ciderI’ve ever had.”

The Brewery Discovery Routesoffer nine self-guided itineraries inSouthern Ontario – such as ‘RuralRoutes & Dirty Boots’ in CentralCounties – featuring more than 200craft breweries, 40 craft cideries, 20craft distillers and dozens of Feast Onrestaurants. The initiative is designedto support local producers; new thisyear is a partnership with Craft BeerPassport, offering $2 pours at selectbreweries.

The routes also point out localgems, such as farmers’ markets. “Weare fortunate to have our Allistonfarmers’ market right in the heart ofour urban centre,” says Linda Spurr,general manager of the Alliston BIA.

This reinforces the town’s conceptof ‘rurban,’ and allows restaurantsand event vendors – such as those atthe Rurban Food Truck Rally – tosource local products right down-town. Alliston is known for its pota-toes (there’s even a dedicated annual

festival), and restaurants such asPeake BBQ source their potatoeslocally.

Over in Niagara, Ontario’s fruit beltproduces everything from apples andpears to peaches, plums and cherries– and, of course, grapes, used toproduce top-notch wines. These canbe sampled at roadside fruit stands orin one of five Feast On restaurantslocated along the scenic NiagaraParkway.

This summer, Niagara College’sCanadian Food & Wine Institute isbringing back its pop-up dinnerseries, serving locally sourced gour-met fare, from produce to meats,cheeses and craft beer. The idea is toshowcase local food stories in uniquespaces, such as Old Fort Erie.

In northern Ontario, the growingseason is short, but there’s a newfocus on developing the food tourismindustry. “We know we have someunique flavours, but we have a lot of

work to do to tellour story,” saysDana Jennings,business devel-opment officerfor tourism andculture with theCity of GreaterSudbury, whichlaunched a foodtourism strategyin May.

Smart Greens-Sudbury, for example, is a newindoor hydroponic container farmthat produces kale, while Greenhous-es Canada produces fresh produceyear-round using a vertical aeroponicssystem.

Craft breweries and distilleries arealso popping up, such as Stack Brew-ing (which has been getting a lot ofattention for its association withCraveTV comedy series Letterkenny)and Crosscut Distillery, producinggrain-to-glass vodka, gin and whiskey.Sudbury also has its own Feast Onrestaurant, Verdicchio, which servesrustic Italian fare; the owner cures hisown meats and pickles, and has abeehive on property.

Though it has a limited growingseason, northern Ontario has its ownfood specialties, such as pickerel. Andwith 330 lakes in Greater Sudbury, it’sa fisher’s paradise (you can even takeout fishing gear at the local library).It’s also known for its wild blueber-ries. “Our blueberries, because of oursoil composition, have the mostunique flavour,” says Ms. Cook. “Youcan’t get those flavours in yourgrocery store.”

Local: It’s about connectingdiners to the land

Farmhouse supper menus (twice a month, seasonally) at South Pond Farms, are

created with whatever is in season and found locally. The meal is served in a restored

barn on the property. KIM MAGEE/SOUTH POND FARMS

FROM PAGE 1

“It’s Kawartha-

Peterborough first, then

Ontario, then Canada,

almost nothing from

anywhere else.

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South Pond Farms

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SATURDAY, JUNE 9, 2018 | THE GLOBE AND MAIL . G E7

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FARMERS’ MARKETS ARE ALL THE

RAGE as people seek a more directconnection with what they’re eating.And Ontario boasts a wealth ofwonderful farm-to-table experiences.

“Food tastes better when youknow where it comes from,” saysKevin Durkee, owner-operator ofCulinary Adventure Co., which offers awide range of market tours fromHalifax to Winnipeg.

Here’s a look at some of Ontario’stop markets.

ST. LAWRENCE MARKET

No trip to Toronto is complete withouta visit to historic St. Lawrence Market,a civic institution dating to 1803. “It’sthe economic, cultural and culinarycentre of Toronto,” says Mr. Durkee,whose company does dozens ofmarket tours each week. The marketbuilding was once home to Toronto’sfirst permanent city hall, and housed apolice station and jail in the basement.Today it’s a world-famous culinaryemporium, with 100-plus vendors offresh produce and seafood, bakers,butchers and artisans peddling deli-cious wares. Don’t miss St. UrbainBagel (Montreal-style doughy good-ness baked in a wood-burning oven),Buster’s Sea Cove (have the BostonBlue fish & chips plate) and CarouselBakery (for peameal bacon on a bun).

KENSINGTON MARKET

A microcosm of Ontario multicultural-ism, Kensington Market representsmore than 80 countries among itsvariety of specialty groceries, bakeriesand cheese shops. “Any ingredient orspice for any recipe, you’ll find it inKensington because of its incrediblediversity,” says Mr. Durkee, whoseCulinary Adventure Co. does tours ofthe market. A walkable bohemianneighbourhood boasting indie shops,vintage boutiques and artsy spaces,Kensington also has funky bars andcafés, and international restaurants

ranging from casual to fine dining.“The people in Kensington care aboutlocal and they care about fresh,” Mr.Durkee says. “The product they serveand the things they’re filling theirshelves with make it an experience.”

BYWARD MARKET

This is where the nation’s capitalcomes together, a hustling andbustling outdoor market with a richroster of specialty stalls and shops.Former U.S. president Barack Obamastopped here to sample one of By-Ward’s legendary BeaverTails, a sweetfried pastry in the shape of a beavertail. The market is renowned for its

street art and boutiques filled withcrafts and clothes by local designers.ByWard is also known for its high-energy nightlife.

“Stall by stall, vendor by vendor,there is a connection here to all thatOntario has to offer,” notes Mr. Dur-kee. “It’s a wonderful outdoor adven-ture.”

KINGSTON PUBLIC MARKET

Despite being Canada’s oldest publicmarket, Kingston gets overlooked.“But it’s remarkable,” says Mr. Durkee,noting that the market draws itsofferings from farmers in PrinceEdward County and along the St.Lawrence Waterway.

SUDBURY MARKET

Sudbury’s destination for local pro-ducers, crafters, artisans and entertain-ers, this market is open rain or shineThursdays and Saturdays, from Juneto October. Browse the vendors andenjoy a locally crafted lunch whiletaking in live performances by localartists.

ST. JACOBS MARKET

Canada’s largest year-round farmers’market, St. Jacobs in the Waterlooregion has hundreds of vendorsoffering farm-fresh, locally sourcedfood (grass-fed beef, summer sausageand maple syrup) and unique crafts bylocal artisans.

NIAGARA FALLS

FARMERS’ MARKET

Part of the Niagara community formore than 50 years, this market isopen year-round on Saturday morn-ings, with four indoor vendors and 15outdoor vendors. While in the area,check out St. Catharines’ Farmers’Market, which began in the 1860s.

WHITBY FARMERS’ MARKET

Featuring local produce, baked goodsand handcrafted items, this down-town Whitby destination is operatedby the Durham Region Farmers’Market Association every Wednesday,from May to October.

BOBCAYGEON FARMERS’ MARKET

This market brings together a stellarlineup of vendors from within a100-kilometre radius of beautifulBobcaygeon, most hailing from thetown itself. You’ll find everything here,from flowers and furniture to cheese,herbs and farm-raised poultry.

TO MARKET, TO MARKET Visit the perfect tastinggrounds for farm-to-tableexperiences in Ontario

Kingston Public Market is Canada’s oldest market and sources from farmers in Prince Edward County. CULINARY ADVENTURE CO.

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