Special Problems

Haircolor and corrective coloring

Special Problems

Each service is unique and should be preceded by a complete client consultation.

Strand tests should be used to ensure more satisfactory results

However, occasionally challenges do occur in haircolor.

Let’s take a look at a few you might encounter

Corrective coloring

Gray hair: challenges & solutions Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough When using the N series add gold to the formula

Yellow discoloration causes Smoking Medication Sun exposure Some styling aids

Lighteners & tint removers will help remove yellow discoloration Undesired yellow can often be overpowered by the artificial pigments

deposited by violet-based colors of an equal or darker level than the yellow

Corrective coloring

Formulating for gray hair Level 9 or lighter may not give complete coverage of gray

Lighter shades have a small percentage of artificial pigment Level 6,7,or 8 can be used to create pastel & blonde tones For 80% to 100% natural gray, the blonde range is generally more

flattering than a darker shade Warm or cool tones may be chosen based on the client’s skin tone,

eye color, & personal preference When coloring salt & pepper hair to darker, color on color will

make a darker color Use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair

Corrective coloring

Semi-permanent/demi-permanent color formulation for gray

% of Gray Formulation

90% - 100% desired level 70% - 90% equal parts desired & 1 level lighter 50% - 70% 1 level lighter than desired level 30% - 50 equal parts 1 level lighter & 2 levels

lighter

Corrective coloring

Permanent color formulation for gray hair

% of Gray hair Formulation 90% - 100% desired level 70% - 90% 2 parts desired level & 1 part lighter level 50% - 70% equal parts desired & lighter level 30% - 50% 2 parts lighter level & 1 part desired level 10% - 30% 1 level lighter

Corrective coloring

Other considerations when formulating for gray hair Client personality Personal preferences Amount & location of gray hair

If the majority of the client’s gray hair is located in the front, that section may be 80% gray or unpigmented while the remainder of the head may be only 30% unpigmented

Presoftening

Gray hair can be highly resistance & required presoftening to allow proper penetration of color

This is a double-application service It is applied, processed & removed Then tint is applied

Presoftening

Mix product according to manufacturer’s directions Apply w/ brush or bottle in most resistant areas first Process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes Wipe color gently w/ cloth or paper towel to remove Apply desired level & tone of color to achieve desired

results Follow established procedures for color application

Rules for Effective Color Correction

DO NOT PANIC Establish the true problem Establish the cause of problem Establish a suitable remedy Take one step at a time Never guarantee exact results Always strand test for accuracy

Damaged Hair Characteristics

Rough texture Overporous condition Brittle & dry to touch Susceptible to breakage No elasticity Becomes spongy & matted when wet Color fades or absorbs too rapidly

Damaged Hair Treatments

Use penetrating conditioner Purpose is to deposit protein, oils & moisture-rich ingredients

Normalize pH w/ a finishing rinse This is done after chemical services to restore cuticle’s protective

capacity

If hair is unresponsive after conditioning treatments, postpone further chemical services

Schedule client for between-service conditioning Recommend retail products for home maintenance

Fillers

Specialized preparations designed to help equalize porosity & deposit base color in one application Two types Conditioner fillers

Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair Can be applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to color

application Color fillers

May be demipermanent color used when there is doubt as to even color results

Color Filler Advantages

Deposits color to faded ends Helps hair hold color Prevents streaking & dull appearance Prevents off-color results Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint Produces more uniform color when doing a tint back

Selecting correct color filler

Select to replace missing primary color in the formulation All three primaries ( red, blue & yellow ) must

be present for natural-looking hair color May be applied directly to hair or mixed

with tint and applied to damaged ends

Fading Reds

Fading is common with color-treated red hair Use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide Prelighten before tint application

This is useful when warmer or brighter ( red-orange or gold ) reds are desired on darker natural levels

Retouching w/ red-based tint may require two formulas 1st formula for the new growth is to create the correct amount of lift & that may

be too much lift for the mid-shaft and ends 2nd formula w/ deposit only hair color product may be applied mid-shaft to ends

STRAND TESTING WILL AID IN ACHIEVING CORRECT RESULTS

Brassiness / unwanted tones

Analyze brassiness first Are the brassy tones red yellow, orange?

Locate that particular shade on the color wheel & use the complementary color to neutralize it This can be done w/ temporary rinses, soap caps during retouches,

fillers, & semi permanent or demi permanent color

Tint removal

Sometimes there is enough buildup of color on the hair that removal of all or part of it may be necessary to achieve the desired color Professional products may contain ingredients to diffuses pigment,

both natural & artificial They are sometimes mixed w/ hydrogen peroxide Some are mixed w/ distilled water when milder products are

needed Always follow individual manufacture’s direction. Never leave client unattended during any chemical service

Tint back to natural

Porosity must be evened out to achieve color correction Created warmth to prevent drab, unnatural-looking color Demipermanent, deposit-only color is a great choice Soap cap

This is a combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo It is applied like regular shampoo Used in conjunction w/ tint back to natural if tint does not exactly

match natural color Will break line of demarcation

Patch test must be used 24 hrs. prior to service If negative, proceed Recommend salon retail products for home use

Summary

Consultation & strands test results are important to you and the client for professional haircoloring for quality results.

In corrective hair color it’s important to remember such factors as porosity, foundation color, location of unpigmented hair, condition of hair & desired results