sparkling-tilly-devine... · 8. sweeter rieslings are typically very low in alcohol, meaning you...
TRANSCRIPT
Welcome to the wine list and welcome to Love, Tilly Devine.
This is just a little something to let you know what we’re about.
Without being pretentious about it, we want this to be a bar where people come to drink well rather than to just get drunk – a place to take a good friend, or a prospective lover.
It is also a place to come to enjoy wine.
We think wine should express the grapes from which it was made and the place where those grapes were grown. That means it should taste like fruit and herbs and flowers and minerals – not oak or alcohol. Even more important is that it must have balance.
The wine list currently sits at just under 300 different wines from many of the world’s great regions – everywhere from the Yarra Valley to the Jura to Wachau. Perhaps that’s excessive for a 40-seat bar, but we don’t think so.
Lastly, the name. It’s a fairly direct reference to the former East Sydney heavyweight – brothel Madame and militia boss extraordinaire – Tilly Devine. Not that we necessarily advocate what she used to do. Instead, the name is more of a nod to the past and a salute to the neighbourhood that we call home.
Sparkling
Vissoux Blanc de Blancs, Cremant de Bourgogne, Beaujolais, France, N.V. 14
Agrapart ‘Terroirs’ Blanc de Blancs, Avize, Champagne, France, N.V. 22
Ca’ de Noci ‘Sottobosco’, Lambrusco, Emilia Romagna, Italy, 2009 15
White
Hartl Rotgipfler, Thermenregion, Austria, 2010 15
Donabaum ‘Johann’ Grüner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria, 2010 14Pattes Loup, Chablis, Chardonnay, Burgundy, France, 2009 18
Milllton ‘Te Arai Vineyard’ Chenin Blanc, Gisborne, New Zealand, 2009 12
Dveri Pax ‘Sivi Pinot’ Pinot Gris, Stajerska, Slovenia, 2009 13
Ziliken ‘Saarburger Rausch’ Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2008 15
Sutton Grange ‘Fairbank’ Viognier, Bendigo, Victoria, 2009 13
Gulfi ‘Valcanzjria’ Carricante, Chardonnay, Sicily, Italy, 2008 16
Rosé
Foster e Rocco, Sangiovese, Heathcote, Victoria., 2011 13
Red
Lowe ‘Tinja’ Shiraz, Mudgee, N.S.W., 2008 10
Allies ‘Merricks’, Pinot Noir, Mornington Penninsula, Victoria, 2010 15
Between Five Bells, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Grenache, Zinfandel, Geelong, Victoria, 2010 14
Massena Primitivo, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2010 12
Nittnaus ‘Kalk und Schiefer’ Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria, 2007 16
Ruggabellus ‘Fluus’, Mataro, Grenache, Shiraz, Cinsault, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2010 13
Picardy Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pemberton, W.A., 2008 13
Mosse ‘Bois Rouge’, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Loire Valley, France, 2008 15
Kir-Yanni ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro, Naoussa, Greece, 2008 16
Wines By The Glass - 150ml
Sherry
Herederos de Argüeso, Manzanilla ‘San León’, Sanlucar de Barradmeda, Spain 10
Navazos ‘La Bota de Amontillado No 23’, Jerez, Spain 30
Navazos ‘La Bota de Manzanilla No 22’, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain 18
Navazos ‘La Bota de Palo Cortado No 21’, Jerez, Spain 24
Toro Albala Cream PX, Montilla Moriles, Spain 14
Sutton Grange ‘Flor Rosé’, Bendigo, Victoria 12
Beer
Coopers Pale Ale, Regency Park, S.A. 6
Moo Brew Dark Ale, Berriedale, Tasmania 10Lord Nelson ‘Three Sheets’ Pale Ale, The Rocks, N.S.W. 8
Holgate Pilsner, Woodend, Victoria 9
Cider
Manoir Kinkiz Cidre, Apple, Cornouaille, Brittany, France 40
Glass 12
Louis de Lauriston, Pear, Domfrontais, Normandy, France 46
Aperitif
Pastis, Henri Bardoin, Provence, France 10
Vermouth, Dry, Dolin, Chambery, France 8
Vermouth, Rouge, Dolin, Chambery, France 8
Vin de Liqueur, Overnoy, Chardonnay, Jura, France 10
Oakridge ‘Blanc de Noirs’, Yarra Valley, Victoria,, 2008 71
Gembrook Hill ‘Blanc de Blancs’, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2006 98
Fairbank ‘Sutton Grange’, Ancestral Sparkling Rosé, Bendigo, Victoria, 2011 64
Vissoux, Cremant de Bourgogne, Beaujolais, France, N.V. 68
Belluard ‘Mont Blanc Brut Zero’, Gringet, Savoie, France, N.V. 95
Donati Camillo, Sauvignon Blanc, Emilia-Romagna, Italy, 2009 74
Ca’ de Noci ‘Sottobosco’, Malbo Gentile, Lambrusco Maestri, Emilia Romagna, Italy, 2009 78
Champagne
Agrapart, ‘Terroirs Grand Cru’, Blanc de Blancs, Avize, N.V. 119
De Sousa, ‘Tradition Brut’, Avise, N.V. 112
De Sousa, ‘Caudalies’, Blanc de Blancs, Avise, 2002 381
Vouette et Sorbée ‘Blanc de Argile’, Buxières-Sur-Arce, N.V. 218
Rene Geoffroy, ‘Empreinte Brut’, Cumières, N.V. 152
Blanc de Noirs
Vouette et Sorbée ‘Fidele’, Buxières-Sur-Arce, N.V. 172
Jérôme Prévost ‘La Closerie Les Beguines’ Gueux, N.V. 199
Egly Ouriet, ‘Vignes de Vrigny’, Ambonnay, N.V. 160
Egly Ouriet, ‘Brut Tradition’ Grand Cru, Ambonnay, N.V. 192
Marie Courtin ‘Resonance Extra Brut’, Polisot, 2007 141
Cedric Bouchard ‘Inflorescence La Parcelle’, Celles-sur-Ource, 2003 235
Rosé
Bereche, ‘Brut’ Ludes, N.V. 175
Larmandier Bernier, ‘Rosé de Saignee’, Vertus, N.V. 190
Vouette et Sorbée ‘Saignée de Sorbée’, Buxières-Sur-Arce, N.V. 260
Sparkl ing Wines
Fresh, Vital, Energetic
Eden Road ‘The Long Road’ Chardonnay, Tumbarumba, N.S.W., 2009 52
Kooyong ‘Farrago’ Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, 2008 104
MacForbes ‘Woori Yallock’ Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2008 90
Mac Forbes Arneis, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2009 56
Chidaine, Vouvray ‘Les Argiles’, Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2009 82
Thomas-Labaille, Sancerre “Les Aristides’, Loire Valley, France, 2010 79
Didier Dageneau, Pouilly Fumé ‘Silex’, Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2007 377
Donabaum ‘Johann’ Grüner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria, 2010 63
Hartl Rotgipfler, Thermenregion, Austria, 2010 69
Wittmann ‘Westhofener’ Sylvaner, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2008 104
Pato ‘Vinhas Velhas’, Cerceal, Sercialinho, Beiras, Portugal, 2009 60
Alvaro Castro Reserva, Dão, Malvasia, Encruzado, Cercial, Beiras, Portugal, 2009 71
Grace Kayagatake, Koshu, Yamanashi, Japan, 2008 90
Challenging, Unusual, Idiosyncratic
Dandy in the Clos ‘Armchairs’, Semillon Blend, Hunter Valley, N.S.W., 2011 (375mL) 38
Puzelat-Bonhomme, Touraine ‘Thésée’, Sauvignon, Loire Valley, France, 2009 67
Clos Rougeard, Samur-Champigny ‘Brézè’, Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2006 196
Arena, Patrimonio ’Carco’, Vermentinu, Corcisa, France, 2010 106
Foradori ‘Myrto’, Manzoni, Sauvignon Blanc, Alto Adige, Italy, 2007 85
Zidarich Vitovska, Fruili-Venezia Guilia, Italy, 2007 125
Radikon Ribolla Gialla, Fruili-Venezia Guilia, Italy, 2004 (500mL) 116
Damijan Podversic, Ribolla Gialla, Fruili-Venezia Guilia, Italy, 2007 150
Occhipinti ‘SP68’, Albanello, Zibbibo Sicily, Italy, 2009 81
Navazos Niepoort ‘Vino Blanco’, Palamino, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain, 2009 98
W h i t e W i n e sFragrant, Textured, Harmonious
Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2008 75
Scorpo Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, 2010 75
Terre a Terre Sauvignon Blanc, Wrattonbully, S.A., 2008 56
Ngeringa Viognier, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2009 87
Spinifex ‘Lola’ Field Blend, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2009 51
Milllton ‘Te Arai Vineyard’ Chenin Blanc, Gisborne, New Zealand, 2009 51
Pyramid Valley ‘Field of Fire’ Chardonnay, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2009 135
Barth Sylvaner, Alsace, France, 2009 68
Belliviére, Jasniéres ‘Prémises’, Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2009 73
Collier, Samur, Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2008 100
Magnon, Vallée du Paradis, ‘La Begou’, Grenache Blanc, Gris, Languedoc, France, 2010 87
Dveri Pax ‘Sivi Pinot’ Pinot Gris, Stajerska, Slovenia, 2009 64
Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, Alto Adige, Italy, 2009 67
Vadiaperti Falanghina, Campania, Italy, 2009 66
Rich, Satisfying, Mouth-Filling
Mount Mary Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2004 183
Sorrenberg Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria, 2009 110
Savaterre Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria, 2008 130
Giaconda Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria, 2001 322
Castagna ‘Ingenue’ Viognier, Beechworth, Victoria, 2006 122
Sutton Grange ‘Fairbank’ Viognier, Bendigo, Victoria, 2009 55
Yangarra Roussanne, McLaren Vale, S.A., 2009 53
Pyramid Valley ‘Hille Vineyard’ Semillon, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2007 86
Herzog Gewurtztraminer, Malborough, New Zealand, 2010 98
Perret, Condrieu, Viognier, Northern Rhône, France, 2007 129
Gulfi ‘Valcanzjria’ Carricante, Chardonnay, Sicily, Italy, 2008 71
Riesling is not only one of the greatest joys of the known world, it is also one of the most maligned and misunderstood.
So in the interests of humanity and the patrons of this bar, we present some simple, objective and irrefutable facts on this most refreshing and delicious of beverages.
1. Riesling is the best drink in this bar. 2. Riesling is the best drink in any bar.
3. Up until the early 20th Century Rieslings were the most expensive wines in the world.
4. Today, Riesling is the best value wine in the universe. 5. Riesling runs the entire spectrum of the sweetness spectrum – from bone dry to super-sugary. 6. Made correctly, a Riesling’s sweetness and acidity should always be in perfect harmony. (That means sweeter styles should have loads of acid, keeping them super-fresh.) 7. Sweeter styles that lack this acidity will never be seen in this bar and in fact have no moral right to even call themselves Rieslings. They bring shame and sadness to every Riesling lover. 8. Sweeter Rieslings are typically very low in alcohol, meaning you can drink even more (which given how easy they are to drink is a huge bonus.)
9. Riesling is the favourite drink of NYC sommelier Paul Grieco, owner of the Terroir wine bars – without who’s influence, this wine list might have looked far different.
10. There are several unconfirmed reports of Rieslings curing the terminally ill.
Our Riesling list has been arranged from driest to sweetest, but remember even the sweetest Rieslings on these pages will be balanced, refreshing and soul cleansing.
Sleek, Vibrant, Exhilarating
Crawford River, Henty, Victoria, 2010 75
Jamsheed ‘Westgate’, Great Western, Victoria, 2010 55
Tim Adams, Clare Valley, S.A., 2009 46
Vinteloper ‘Odeon’, Clare Valley, S.A., 2010 87
KT ‘Perglidis’, Clare Valley, S.A., 2010 72
Ruggabellus ‘Edelie’, Eden Valley, S.A., 2009 55
Radford ‘Bio-dynamically Grown’, Eden Valley, S.A., 2009 73
Kanta (By Egon Müller) ‘Balhannah Vineyard’, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2005 60
Frankland Estate ‘Poison Hill’, Great Southern, W.A., 2010 57
Leo Buring ‘Leopold’, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, 2007 81
Metternich + Salomon, ‘Pfaffenberg’ Erstes Gewachs, Kamptal, Austria, 2009 90
Wittmann, Trocken, ‘Westhofener – S’, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2007 91
\Powerful, Intricate, Majestic
Grosset ‘Springvale’, Clare Valley, S.A., 2000 150
Felton Road ‘Dry’, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2001 132
Mader ‘Rosacker’ Grand Cru, Alsace, France, 2008 122
Kientzler ‘Geisberg’ Grand Cru, Alsace, 2004 133
Trimbach ‘Cuvée Frederich Emile’ Alsace, France, 2004 213
F. X. Pichler ‘Durnsteiner Hollerin’ Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 133
Heymann-Löwenstein ‘Von Blauem Schiefer’, Mosel, Germany, 2009 97
Dönnhoff ‘Hermannshöhle’ Grosses Gewächs, Nahe, Germany, 2005 240
Christmann ‘Idig’ Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz, Germany, 2009 170
Von Buhl ‘Pechstein’ Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany, 2005 183
Breuer ‘Berg Schlossberg’ Erstes Gewächs, Rheingau, Germany, 2008 199
The House of Johann Josef Prüm produces the greatest Riesling in the world.
It’s not because it’s been around the longest (that title goes to Schloss Johannisberg at around 1,200 years) and it’s not because his wines are the most expensive (that would be Egon Muller, whose Scharzofberger TBAs regularly fetch over €4,000 a half bottle). No, Dr. Prüm is the greatest because he produces simply the purest, most thrilling expressions of Riesling imaginable.
Based in the Middle-Mosel region of Germany and run by Katharina Prüm. the estate produces Rieslings that feel lighter than water with such elegance that they seem otherworldly. They range from just off-dry to quite sweet with a delicate acid backbone underpinning lovely apple, peach and tropical fruit.
They are designed for the long term and often the aromas can be a little muted for the first couple of years. That’s why we are providing the opportunity to try some aged and mature styles.
Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Graacher Himmelreich’ Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2009 102
Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2009 (375mL) 66
Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Zeltinger Sonnenuhr’ Spätlese, Mosel, Germany, 2009 125
Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ Auslese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 1997 446
Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ Auslese ‘Gold Kapsel’, Mosel, Germany, 2007 440
The Aristocrat - J J Prüm
Luscious, Feather-Light, Off-Dry
Mt Edward, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2008 65
Gunderloch ‘Fritz’s’, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2010 56
Egon Müller ‘Scharzhofberger’ Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 2005 153
Knebel ‘Winninger Röttgen’ Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2007 67
Ziliken ‘Saarburger Rausch’ Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2008 66
Schafer-Frohlich, ‘Bockenauer’ Kabinett, Nahe, Germany, 2008 75
Peter Lauer, ‘Ayler-Kupp – Fass 9 Kern’, Mosel, Germany, 2009 164
Dönnhoff ‘Oberhäuser Leistenberg’ Kabinett, Nahe, Germany, 2010 82
Gunderloch ‘Nackenheim Rotherberg’ Spätlese, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2002 121
Egon Müller ‘Scharzhofberger’ Spätlese, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany, 2003 190
M.F Richter ‘Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr’ Auslese, Mosel, Germany, 2002 210
Deinhard & Co. ‘Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck’ Auslese, Rheingau, Germany, 1971 380
A lot of people say Sydneysiders are obsessed with real estate, but those people need to get some perspective and check out Burgundy. More than anywhere else, Burgundians worship the land.
It all began with booze-loving monks a thousand years ago, thirsty men who divided the entire wine region into hundreds of tiny vineyards parcels known as climats. Each of these is said to produce a wine different to every other.
It’s all based on the idea that the character of a wine comes from all of the variables that affect the vineyard that it came from – the soil, the direction and angle of the slope, the climate etc. etc. The French call the sum total of these variables ‘Terroir’.
It’s because of this belief in Terroir that French wines are more often referred to as place names than by the name of the grape varietal from which they were made.
Now, I wonder what would happen if someone tried to do a Burgundian-style ranking of our humble old Darlinghurst.
How would they rate the Terroir of Crown Lane just outside this door? And would the monks hold it against us that many decades ago the husband of a brothel Madame – a gangster named Jim Devine – murdered a man across the road, outside The Strand Hotel?
We’ve put together an introduction into this most revered, historic and regal of wine regions – beginning with the affordable and moving on to the heart stopping.
Styles here range from crisp, lean and racy (Chablis), to rich, toasty and luscious (Meursault). Of course, they are placed in order of their terroir (from North to South). This is Burgundy after all.
White Burgundy Petit Chablis, Defaix, 2009 64
Chablis, Pattes Loup, 2009 71Chablis, Christophe ‘Vielles’ Vignes’, 2009 81
Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaillon’, Christian Moreau, 2009 106
Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’, Raveneau, 2007 218
Chablis 1er Cru ‘Montée de Tonnerre’, Droin, 2009 125
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’, Christian Moreau, 2002 220
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos’, Dauvissat, 2000 465
Chablis Grand Cru ‘Blanchot’, Raveneau, 2008 250
Cote d’Auxerre, Goisot ‘Corps de Garde’ 2008 82
Bourgogne, Sauzet, 2007 113
Bourgogne, Leroy, 1999 92
Nuits St. Georges, Pacalet (Pinot Blanc), 2008 262
Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray, 1996 470
Beaune, Fanny Sabre, 2009 125
Meursault ‘En la Barre’ Jobard, 2007 189
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’, Leflaive, 1996 458
Criots-Batard-Montrachet, Blain-Gagnard, 1996 408
Batard-Montrachet, Leflaive, 1994 693
Chassagne-Montrachet, Sauzet, 2007 173
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Vergers’, Bernard Moreau, 2007 203
Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Chevonettes’, Pierre Yves-Colin Morey, 2007 218
Macon-Villages, Vallette, 2010 70
The other day I was walking down Elizabeth Bay Road as an elderly man, eighty or so, sat on a nearby bench eating a sandwich. He was wearing bright red trousers that seemed too short and an old pair of leather Mocassins.
It was probably the same outfit that he’s been wearing once a week for the past twenty years.
The funny thing is not the guy’s outfit itself but the fact that hordes of kids sixty years his juniour are currently wearing essentially that exact same outfit all across the inner city.
It got me thinking – if you stick with something long enough for sure it will come into back fashion eventually. You’ve just gotta hang in there. The same thing it seems happens in the world of wine.
Two years ago there was some contraversy when Australian plantings of the then fashionable Albarino grape turned out to be the virtually unknown Savagnin Blanc. Would-be Albarino producers were horrified. It turns out that perhaps they were just a little short sighted.
That’s because wines made from Savagnin are fast becoming some of the most fashionable in the world..
Savagnin is just one of 17 rare native grapes grown in the French Alpine region of the Jura. This is the homeland of Melon le Rouge Queue, Ploussard and Trousseau – full bodied whites and delicate, minerally reds.
There is a inimitability about these wines that one has to experience to understand.
The winemaking alternates between the truly unique and somewhat bizarre – (Savagnin aged for years without the topping up of the barrels so that a Sherry-like yeast envelopes the wine imparting strong nutty aromas) – and those borrowed from nearby Burgundy – (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are now big players but these too can often also be very distinctive).
The production is tiny and the wines exceptionally rare. We’re very proud to offer a selection from four of the top producers in the region as well as a couple of wines from the nearby areas of Savoie and Bugey.
J u r a White
Houillon (Overnoy) Arbois-Pupillin, Chardonnay, 2008 (2nd) 92
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Les Chalasses Vielles Vignes’, Chardonnay, 2008 155
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Les Grands Teppes Vielles Vignes’, Chardonnay, 2008 158
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Cuvée Oregane’, Chardonnay, Savagnin, 2008 172
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Les Chalasses Marnes Bleues’, Savagnin, 2008 185
Houillon (Overnoy) Arbois Pupillin, Savagnin, 2006 165
Houillon (Overnoy) Arbois Pupillin, Savagnin ‘Ouille’, 1999 (500mL) 207
Red
Bornard, Arbois Pupillin ‘La Chamade’, Poulssard, 2008 69
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Cuvée de l’Enfant Terrible’, Ploussard, 2008 132
Houillon (Overnoy) Arbois Pupillin, Poulssard, 2008 180
Puffeney, Arbois, Trousseau, 2008 105
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Plein Sud’, Trousseau, 2009 142
Ganevat, Côtes du Jura ‘Cuvée Julien’, Pinot Noir, 2009 130
Quenard, Chignin, Mondeuse, Savoie, France, 2009 70
Perron, Bugey ‘La Persanne’ Mondeuse, Pinot Noir, Bugey, 2010 85
Vin de Liqueur
Houillon (Overnoy) Vin de Liqueur, Savagnin, 2006 100
Harkham ‘Rose Nouveau’, Shiraz, Hunter Valley, N.S.W., 2011 55
Foster e Rocco, Sangiovese, Heathcote, Victoria, 2010 60
Sutton Grange, Shiraz, Victoria, 2009 65
Didi ‘Salasso di Nebbiolo’, Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2010 59
L’Angalore, Tavel, Grenache Blend, Southern Rhône, France, 2010 78
Gros Noré, Bandol, Mouvedre Blend, Provence, France, 2009 81
Pittacum ‘Tres Obispos’, Mencia, Bierzo, Spain, 2009 66
Valentini, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Montepulciano, Abruzzo, Italy, 2008 176
R o s é W i n e s
Brilliant, Perfumed, Feminine
Bindi ‘Composition’, Macedon Ranges, Victoria, 2010 87
Mac Forbes, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2007 64
Gembrook Hill, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2006 90
William Downie, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2010 116
Garagiste, Mornington Penninsula, Victoria, 2010 83
Marchand & Burch ‘Gibraltar Rock’, Porongurup, W.A., 2009 121
Glatenay, Bourgogne, Burgundy, France, 2009 78
Sylvain-Cathiard, Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Clos de l’Ormes’, Burgundy, France, 2009 295
Henri Gouges, Nuits St Georges ‘Les Pruliers’, Burgundy, France, 2007 218
Glatenay, Volnay, Burgundy, France, 2009 118
Maréchal, Savigny-les-Beaune ‘Vielles Vignes’, Burgundy, France, 2008 115
Georg Breuer Spatburgunder, ‘B’, Rheingau, Germany, 2007 153
Dark-Toned, Ripe, Fleshy
Allies ‘Merricks’, Mornington Penninsula, Victoria, 2010 63
William Downie, Mornington Penninsula, Victoria, 2010 116
By Farr ‘Farrside’, Geelong, Victoria, 2008 118
Ngeringa, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2008 84
Stoney Rise, Tamar Valley, Tasmania, 2008 56
Pyramid Valley Vineyards, ‘Calvert Vineyard’, Central Otago, New Zealand, 2008 142
Bell Hill, Canterbury, New Zealand, 2008 300
Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Vielles Vignes’, Burgundy, France, 2008 218
Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France, 2007 217
Tremblay, Morey-Saint-Denis ‘Trés Girand’, Burgundy, France, 2009 228
Sylvain-Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, France, 2009 274
Pacalet, Nuits St Georges, Burgundy, France, 2009 198
Ancient, Complex, Haunting
Tarrington, Henty, Victoria, 2003 141
Savaterre, Beechworth, Victoria, 2004 138
Bass Phiilip ‘Estate’, Gippsland, Victoria, 2003 198
Bass Phiilip ‘Rare’, Gippsland, Victoria, 2004 358
Giaconda ‘Nantua’, Beechworth, Victoria 2004 165
Giaconda ‘Estate’, Beechworth, Victoria, 2000 228
Eric de Suremain, Monthelie, Burgundy, France, 1999 167
Leroy ‘Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Docteur Peste’, Corton, Burgundy, France, 1964 682
P i n o t N o i r
Aubert de Villaine, the man behind the most prestigious Pinot Noir estate in the world, the Domaine de la Romanée Conti, famously described himself once as the guardian, rather than the creator of his wines. What he meant by that was not that he is often forced to shield his winery from attack (although many a young sommelier has been known to steal a few grapes for posterity). Instead, when a winemaker has such perfect vineyards, the most important thing he or she can do is simply get that perfection into the bottle.
This is a philosophy that Anton Von Klopper of Lucy Margaux adheres to like few others.
This is how hardcore he is – he started his vineyards from scratch in old vegie-growing country in the Adelaide Hills seven years ago so that there was no chance he’d be contaminated by other vigneron’s presticides or chemicals. He adds nothing to his wines except grapes (which you’d think would just be common sense but is actually very rare) and his adherence to the principles of Biodynamics is incredibly strict.
What that means is that his wines speak of place like no other. So what more perfect way could he have found to decribe each of his wines than to tell us which place within Love, Tilly Devine we should enjoy each of them. We are honoured and privileged to have Anton, more poet than winemaker, take us through each of his 2010 Pinot Noir bottlings. He may very well be the world’s next Aubert de Villaine.
Lucy Margaux Pinot Noir
Domaine Lucci Pinot Noir 2010 67
Love, Tilly Devine preferred seating for drinking this wine: the bar – where you are at home. The place that is the link between guest and host, formality and informality, the hypothetical blend of all your genes, experiences, and dreams mixed into one. This is a wine living larger than life, her enthusiasm, curves and unabashed ways are the tonic to a jaded, seen-it-all-before life. She is an ode to both the awkwardness of youth and the sensuality of innocence.A blend of all the following single vineyard pinots and the only wine with pressings included – something so young yet so right.
Lucy Margaux Monomeith Single Vineyard 2010 128
Love, Tilly Devine preferred seating for drinking this wine: up the stairs and straight to the back wall, looking down at the masses below, (the masses craning their necks to catch a peek of the Queen). You can laugh and they will laugh with you, throw scorn and their eyes will scatter. A small parcel of fruit, as all Lucy Margaux Single Vineyards are, which speaks of place and local dialect way before genes and variety.
We are looking here for the local customs, the essence of the culture distilled – not names, never varieties.... And God forbid conformity. This is about the Vindividual. Abstract in her promises, she has mastered charm but also discipline, dusk stretched to dawn, you must step up and find the essence of woman in the vineyard of femme fatale, the vineyard that is the Monomeith. This is about your time with her. Discover what you will, trick her how you shall, your time together will not last. Enjoy it whilst you can.
Lucy Margaux Little Creek Single Vineyard 2010 128
Love, Tilly Devine preferred seating for drinking this wine: up the stairs to the back, in the dark left corner. Away from plotters, glamours, court jesters and partners, this is the throne to sit on, a place to contemplate your grip on reality and your slipping crown of life. Year after year, the same half row of fruit delivers the same results – unlike anything else, unlike Pinot, unlike the Adelaide Hills, unlike the Southern hemisphere, unlike like. The essence of life, the distillation of a moment yet to form. Listen closely and hear the accent.
Tear away the layers. The King of the Court is naked, eternally Royal as the wolves wait at
the door. The Jewel in the Crown, or the First Crack in the Wall?
Elegant, Energetic, Charming
Intense, Vigorous, Graceful
Syrahmi ‘Climat’ Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria, 2009 79
Moortangi Estate ‘Cambrian’ Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria, 2005 69
Virgin Hills, Cabernet Blend, Macedon, Victoria, 1988 150
Jamsheed ‘La Syrah’ Syrah, Great Western, Victoria, 2005 48
Protero ‘Gumeracha’ Merlot, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2010 69
Pannell Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2010 89
Vinteloper ‘Adello’ Touriga Nacional, Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Adelaide Hills, S.A., 2010 58
Massena Primitivo, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2010 51
Stonecroft ‘Serine’ Syrah, Gimlett Gravels, New Zealand, 2009 58
Dry River ‘Lovatt’ Syrah, Martinborough, New Zealand, 2004 186
Clos Rougeard, Samur Champigny, ‘Clos’ Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley, France, 2006 139
Reau, Anjou ‘Pompois’, Cabernet Franc, Loire Valley, France, 2009 85
Vieux Manoir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Bordeaux, France, 2008 60
Faury, Collines Rhodaniennes, Syrah, Northern Rhône, France, 2009 56
Chapoutier, Côte-Rôtie, Syrah, Viognier, Nothern Rhône, France, 1966 370
Gangloff, Côte-Rôtie ‘La Barbadine’, Syrah, Viognier, Nothern Rhône, France, 2004 204
Mas de Libian, Côtes du Rhône ‘Bout d’Zan’, Grenache Blend, South. Rhône, France, 2009 63
L’Anglore ‘Pierre Chaude’, Grenache, Southern Rhône, France, 2010 87
San Leonardo, Vigneti Delle Dolomiti, Cabernet Blend, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy, 2000 176
Podere le Boncie, Chianti Classico ‘La Trame’, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, 2008 93
Il Colle, Rosso di Montalcino, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, 2007 79
Montevertine ‘Le Pergole Torte’, Sangiovese, Tuscany, Italy, 1994 293
Descendientes de Jose Palacios, ‘Petalos’, Mencia, Bierzo, Spain 2009 85
Niepoort ‘Sempar’, Touriga Nacional Blend, Douro, Portugal, 2009 66
Ridge ‘Monte Bello’, Cabernet Blend, Santa Cruz, California, U.S.A., 1999 364
R e d W i n e s
Lowe ‘Tinja’ Shiraz, Mudgee, N.S.W., 2008 44
Eldridge Estate Gamay, Mornington Penninsula, Victoria, 2009 74
Bass Phillip Gamay, Gippsland, 2009 90
Mac Forbes ‘Gruyere’ Syrah, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2008 67
Between Five Bells, Shiraz, Sangiovese, Grenache, Zinfandel, Geelong, Victoria, 2010 69
Ruggabellus ‘Fluus’, Mataro, Grenache, Shiraz, Cinsault, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2010 52
Shadowfax ‘Minnow’, Carignan, Grenache, Shiraz, Cinsault, Geelong, Victoria, 2009 66
Chignard, Fleurie, ‘Les Moriers’, Gamay, Beaujolais, France, 2009 71
Foillard, Morgon ‘Cuvée Corcelette’, Gamay, Beaujolais, France, 2009 95
Foillard, Morgon ‘Côtes du Py’, Gamay, Beaujolais, France, 2009 95
Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Cheverny ‘Rouillon’, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Loire Valley, France, 2010 71
Belliviere, Coteaux du Loire ‘Rouge-Gorge’, Pineau d’Aunis, Loire Valley, France, 2009 84
Grillons, Côtes du Rhône ‘Vieux Sage’, Grenache Blend, Southern Rhône, France, 2010 60
L’Anglore ‘Traverses’, Syrah, Grenache, Southern Rhône, France, 2010 81
Baron di Pauli ‘Kalkofen’, Schiava, Alto Adige, Italy, 2009 69
Rosso, Barbera d’Alba, ‘Donna Margherita’, Barbera, Piemonte, Italy, 2008 86
Cos ‘Pithos’, Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Sicily, Italy, 2008 101
Cornelissen ‘Rosso del Contadino 7’, Nero Mascalese, Mt Etna, Sicily, Italy 85
Dettori ‘Renosu’ Cannonau, Sardinia, Italy, 2006 78
Nittnaus ‘Kalk und Schiefer’ Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria, 2007 74
Ripe, Lavish, Heartwarming
Castagna ‘Un Segretto’, Syrah, Sangiovese, Beechworth, Victoria, 2008 134
Castagna ‘Genesis’, Syrah, Beechworth, Victoria, 1998 165
La Pleaide Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria, 2009 115
Jasper Hill ‘Georgia’s Paddock’ Shiraz, Heathcote, Victoria, 2001 157
The Standish Wine Co. ‘The Relic’ Shiraz, Viognier, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2008 154
Tommy Ruff Shiraz Mouvedre, Barossa Valley, S.A., 2009 56
Spinifex ‘Le Chemin’, Grenache Blend, Barossa Valley, 2009 117
Battle of Bosworth ‘Preservative Free ‘Shiraz, McLaren Vale, S.A., 2010, 45
Jauma ‘Wood Vineyard’ Grenache, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, S.A., 2010 118
Cullen ‘Mangan’, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Margaret River, W.A., 2009 68
Picardy Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pemberton, W.A., 2008 60
Mosse ‘Bois Rouge’, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Loire Valley, France, 2008 72
Talbot, St Julien, Cabernet Blend, Bordeaux, France, 1985 429
Gonon, Saint-Joseph ‘Vielle Vignes’, Syrah, Northern Rhône, France, 2008 198
Allemand, Cornas, ‘Reynard’, Syrah, Northern Rhône, France, 2007 259
Allemand, Cornas ‘Chaillot’, Syrah, Northern Rhône, France, 1997 150
Clos du Mont-Olivet, Côtes du Rhône ‘Varéne’, Syrah, Southern Rhône, France, 2007 75
Le Salette, Valpolicella Ripasso ‘Il Progni’, Corvina, Molinara Blend, Veneto, Italy, 2007 72
Paolo Bea ‘San Valentino’, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Sagrantino, Tuscany, Italy, 2006 108
Guado al Tasso (Antinori) Bolgheri Superiore, Cabernet Blend, Tuscany, Italy, 1999 303
Vadiaperti Aglianico, Campania, Italy, 2005 66
Anima Negra ‘AN/2’ Callet, Montenegro, Syrah, Majorca, Spain, 2008 94
Kir-Yanni ‘Ramnista’ Xinomavro, Naoussa, Greece, 2008 70
Thackrey, ‘Orion’, Field Blend, Napa Valley, U.S.A., 2008 236
The follwing is a selection of sweet wines. Yet strangely enough, none of them have had any
sugar added. Weird. That’s because these wines are sweet because of Residual Sugar, all that
beautiful natural stuff that the hungry yeast weren’t able to ferment. Eating themselves to
death (or being poisoned) before they could finish their job.
The wines have been ordered according to their perceived sweetness, not their residual
sugar levels.
All wines are in 375mL bottles unless marked otherwise.
Crawford River ‘Nektar’, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Henty, Victoria, 2006 74
Ngeringa ‘J. E. Altus’, Pink Semillon, McLaren Vale, S.A., 2007 74
Oakridge ‘Limited Release’ Viognier, Yarra Valley, Victoria, 2009 36
Houillon (Overnoy) Vin de Liqueur, Savagnin, 2006 100
Pierre-Bise, Coteaux du Layon ‘Rouannières’, Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France, 2008 109
Baumard, Coteaux Layon ‘Sainte Catherine’ Chenin Blanc, Loire Valley, France (750mL) 129
Disznoko ‘Late Harvest’ Furmint, Tokaji, Hungrary, 2008 (500mL) 66
Kracher ‘TBA #3 – Zwischen den See‘, Schuerebe, Burgenland, Austria, 2004 138
Telmo Rodriguez ‘Molino Real Mountain Wine’, Moscatel, Málaga, Spain, 2000 (500mL) 148
Pierre Gaillard, Banyuls ‘Cirera’, Grenache, Carignan, South-West France, 2007 (500mL) 88
Sweet Wines
Calvados
Domfrontais ‘Vielle Réserve’, Victor Gontier, France, 1997 14
Armagnac
Grand Bas Armanac ‘Folle Blanche’, Boingnéres, France, 1999 24
Cognac
Petite Champagne, Normandin-Mercier, France, 1976 25
Single Malt Whisky
Lagavulin ‘16 Year’, Islay, Scotland 16
Argicole Rum
Rhum J. M ‘Réserve Spéciale X.O.’, Martinique 15
Grappa
Torbata 3.19, Manzoni, Prosecco, Cabernet Sauvignon, Veneto, Italy 15
Capavilla, Traminer, Veneto, Italy 15
Capovilla Apricot, Veneto, Italy 19
Digest i fs