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SUMMARY OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1

OVIEDO 4GIJÓN 7

INTINERARIES:The Eastern route 10The The coastal route 12The The Western route 14Other routes 16

HOW TO GET THERE, WHERE TO EAT AND STAY 18

LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT 20

USEFUL ADDRESSES 23

History: Heirs of the Palaeolithic

To trace Asturias’ historical originsone has to travel far back in time.To the Palaeolithic, the ageof the great cave painters. Thecaves of Candamo, El Buxu, ElPindal or Tito Bustillo, amongothers, stand in mute testimonyto this culture. When, manycenturies later, the Roman Empiresought to colonise these lands, itsenvoys came up against warriortribes with a lifestyle not farremoved from that of theirPalaeolithic forebears. They fishedand hunted much like theirancestors, they moved about inclans, clothed themselves in fursand skins, paid homage to thedeities of Nature and rebelled

Pindal Cave, rock painting

The Principality of Asturias is averdant, unending feast of scenery.In this region of northern Spain,sea and mountainside meet in aworld of abrupt contours,exuberant nature, rolling forests,and scores of small towns andvillages dotted about a terrain thatis a joy to the senses. Seventy-eightmunicipalities make up a regionthat covers over 10,500 squarekilometres (some 4,000 sq. miles),with a 375-kilometre strip ofcoastline. To the south lies theProvince of León, to the West thatof Lugo, and to the East, Cantabria.The Picos de Europa massif hasacted as an nigh impassablebarrier. To the north, the Atlanticswell of the Bay of Biscay pummelsthe coastal cliffs, forming hundredsof beaches...secluded, capriciouslycarved beaches, small coves ofwhite sand and weathered rock.Two very different faces ofAsturias, and, there between thetwo, lies metropolitan Asturias:Oviedo, the capital (population200,000), Gijón, the largest city(population 270,000), and Avilés,an industrial and fishing centre(population 90,000). In addition,there are the two mining capitals:Langreo and Mieres.

INTRODUCTION

against the very notion of foreignrule or authority. These were theAsturs.The Asturs were exponents of theso-called castro culture. Thesecastros (fortified encampments)were both places of abode anddefence: circular stone dwellings,with straw roofs, surrounded bystout walls. This castro culture hasleft abundant examples in

Asturias, the best being theCoaña castro, in the West of theregion. When, after three hard-fought wars, the Romanswere finally able to set abouttheir cultural and economiccolonisation of the Asturs, theylooked to this people’s land for itsprecious metals, and to itsmenfolk for skilled warriors toman the Imperial legions.

Ultimately, Asturias wasRomanised, though never entirely.The Moorish invasion left fewscars on the Principality. Onceagain, the Astur tribes halted theadvance of an invading army withthe aid of a broken and difficultterrain. The legend is told of how,in the 8th century, a localchieftain of noble blood, Pelayoby name, defeated the Moorishforces at the Battle of Covadonga,on the site of which there nowstands a shrine that has become aregional symbol. Indeed, it wasthis battle that heralded thebeginning of the Reconquest andthe birth of the Asturianmonarchy.Many years have since elapsed,but the echoes of those bygonedays haunt the land: the famineof medieval times, the uprising ofthe Asturian people during thePeninsula War, the massiveexodus of the emigration years,the industrialisation that tookplace toward the close of the lastcentury... A past that is kept alivethrough traditions, folklore and customs: ancestral dances, such as the Corri-corri ofthe Cabrales district or El Pericotefrom Llanes; dishes that hail fromanother age, such as the localcasseroles (potes), the famedfabada (stew of haricot beans,pork and sausage), or the blue-veined Cabrales cheese, left tomature in natural mountainsidecaves; a past that is to be seen inthe local architecture, in the

2

Cave of Tito Bustillo, rock painting.Ribadesella

mansions built by the “indianos”(expatriate Asturians who, havingleft to seek fame and fortune inAmerica, returned with theirnewfound wealth), and in thehórreos (narrow, stone, house-likegran-aries supported on squatpiles) standing alongside many acountry homestead, whichtogether constitute Asturias’ mostimportant architectural heritage.A past that has also bequeathed alocal tongue, known as bable.This however is neitherstandardised nor in generaliseduse, and is heard mostly incountry districts.Asturias has a population of1,100,000, a mild climate andplentiful rainfall. Temperaturesaverage around 12°C in winter(except in mountain areas) and16°C-18°C in summer.

3

Oviedo Cathedral

Faculty of Philosophy and letters,statue of Father Feijoo. Oviedo

OVIEDOIn the shadow of its Cathedral

Oviedo is a city that is ideal forexploring on foot. A good part of ithistoric Old Quarter is a pedestrianprecinct. The starting point for thetour is the Cathedral Square (Plaza)(1), laid out beneath the imposingsteeple of its Gothic church. OviedoCathedral, built in the 16th century,stands guard over one of Christianity’streasures, the Cámara Santa,designed as a shrine for a coffer ofholy relics -the Arca Santa- alongwith the Angel Cross (Cruz de losAngeles) and Pelayo’s reputed Crossof Victory (Cruz de la Victoria), aninsignia which forms part of theAsturian coat of arms.The interior of Oviedo Cathedral -Flamboyant Gothic in style- is truly impressive. The altarpiece isconsidered one of the most exquisitein Spain. The 11th-century polychromestone statue of the Saviour, cloister,Chapter House and pilgrims’ gardengraveyard are other points to see inthis church with its single, soaringsteeple and spire. Opening times: 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4 -7 p.m. (summer, 4 - 8 p.m.). ClosedSundays and Public Holidays. TheCathedral Museum may also bevisited. Opening times: Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. -1 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m.- 1 p.m. and 4 - 6:30 p.m. (summer, 4 - 8 p.m.). * 98 520 31 17.The streets surrounding the Cathedralhave a very traditional flavour. The

Calle San Vicente (calle, street) ishome to the AsturianArchaeological Museum (2).Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday,10 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. and 4 - 6 p.m.Sundays and Public Holidays, 11 a.m. -1 p.m. * 98 521 54 05. Rooms aredivided into Roman,pre-Romanesqueand Gothic.Feijoo Square, the Monastery of SanPelayo (3) and the Church of St.Mary the Royal (Santa María la Real)(4) are hedged round by narrow,bustling streets and alleyways. On oneof these streets, La Rúa, stands theProvincial Fine Arts Gallery (BellasArtes) (5), housing a fine collection of16th-century European and Spanishpaintings and 19th- and 20th-centuryAsturian art. Opening times: Tuesdayto Saturday, 10:30 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. and5 - 8 p.m. Saturdays, Sundays andPublic Holidays, 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m. * 98 521 30 61.In the Old Quarter, one finds many ofthe city’s most traditional shops, winebars (tascas) and dealers in antiquesand religious items. A stone’s throw

4

Oviedo City Hall

from the Calle de Cimadevilla is thePlaza de la Constitución, with the CityHall (Ayuntamiento) (6), which in itsfirst incarnation, dates from the 17thcentury, and St. Isidore’s Church(San Isidoro) (7) (16th- and 17th-century). Nearby is Fontán Market(8), currently undergoing restoration,and the Plaza del Fontán, the heart ofOviedo’s Old Quarter, a small yetstunning square, enclosed by arcadesthat lend it a genuine medieval air(note: the square is scheduled forrestoration in 1997). A street market isheld on Thursday, Saturday andSunday mornings.San Francisco Park (Campo de SanFrancisco), which traces its origins asfar back as the 13th century, acts asthe city’s “lungs”. In the area aroundthe Plaza de La Escandalera, a numberof singular buildings are to be found,such as the Caja de Asturias, theRegional Palace (9), seat of thePrincipality’s Regional Council,Asturias’ most important politicalbody, and, in the neighbouring Callede Fruela, the former Banco Herrero building, with its notable façade.Adjoining La Escandalera Square risethe silhouettes of the Campoamor

Theatre (10), which houses the Centre of Modern Art in its basement,and what was formerly Santa ClaraConvent (11), today home to theInland Revenue Deparment. Facing thenearby Calle de San Francisco is thehistoric edifice that is OviedoUniversity (12), founded in the 16thcentury by the Inquisitor, Fernando deValdés Salas. Visitors are welcome.Around the corner in the Plaza dePorlier, the façades of the Toreno (13)and Camposagrado Palaces (14) arewell worth seeing.The Calle de Uría, the shoppingcentre of modern Oviedo, runs as faras the railway station. Just off theCalle de Uría are other streets ofcommercial interest, such as the Callede Conde de Toreno, Santa Cruz,Doctor Casal, Palacio Valdés, MiliciasNacionales and Gil de Jaz. On this laststreet stands another of the city’slandmark buildings, the oldProvincial Hospital (HospicioProvincial) (15), dating from the 18thcentury and now converted into aluxury hotel. Its Baroque façade isemblasoned with an impressiveSpanish coat of arms. Visitors arewelcome to go inside and savour the

Plaza de la Escandalera. Oviedo

6

courtyards and atmosphere. Oviedo can boast the world’s leadingexamples of pre-Romanesque art,three of which are a “must”. TheChurch of St. Julian in the Fields(San Julián de los Prados) (16) is to befound at the entrance to the city,beside the highway linking Oviedowith Gijón and Avilés. Opening times:Tuesday to Saturday, 9:30 a.m. - 12noon. Sundays and Public Holidays, 4 -6 p.m. closed Mondays. It dates fromthe 9th century and, in its interior,houses some magnificent frescoes.On the slopes of Mount Naranco, justthree kilometres outside Oviedo,stands Santa María del Naranco(17), a small summer palace built byKing Ramiro I in the 9th century. SantaMaría is another of the Principality’slandmarks. A short distance off is SanMiguel de Lillo (18), a royal chapeldating from the same time.Opening times for Santa María delNaranco and San Miguel de Lillo:

Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.Closed Sundays afternons. There is noentrance fee on Mondays, but noguided tours are provided. San Miguelde Lillo, Santa María del Naranco,Santa Cristina de Lena, the CámaraSanta, San Julián de los Prados andthe Foncolada Fountain have all beenofficially granted World Heritage Sitestatus by UNESCO. There are yet moreexamples of pre-Romanesque in thearea: in the very centre of the city isthe Foncala da Fountain (19); in LasRegueras, some 13 kilometres fromOviedo, the Church of San Pedro deNora (20); and, on the old road toLangreo, about 5 kilometres from thecity, the Church of Santa María deBendones (21).

Chapel of San Miguel de Lillo. Oviedo

7

GIJÓNFacing out to sea

Gijón is a seafaring and industrial city.Its historic old part is centred on theFishermen’s Quarter of Cimadevilla.Cimadevilla separates the city’s twosweeping beaches, San Lorenzo andPoniente. Facing out to sea from apoint adjoining the Cimadevilladistrict is Eduardo Chillida’s impressive

sculpture, entitled Elogio delHorizonte (In praise of the Horizon)(1). The “Elogio” is Gijón’s touristlandmark and is situated on theSanta Catalina headland, site of anerstwhile military fortress and nowconverted into a park. On the otherside of the hill, is the local quay-sideand marina. Fronting onto thecobbled and semi-arcaded PlazaMayor (main square) is the 19th-century City Hall (Ayuntamiento)(2). Adjacent to it are the buildings of

the former Pescadería (fish market),today an administrative centre, andthe Gijón Jovellanos BirthplaceMuseum (Museo Casa Natal deJovellanos) (3), housing collections ofAsturian paintings and a recreation ofthe house of Gaspar Melchor deJovellanos, the 18th-century politicianand writer who was the leadingfigure in Spain’s Age ofEnlightenment (Ilustración) and

remains as a constant reference pointin the street names and history ofGijón.Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday,10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m.Sundays and Public Holidays, 11 a.m.- 2 p.m. Closed Mondays. * 98 534 63 13. St. Peter’s Church(San Pedro) (4) stands at one end ofthe bay. From here, the way nowleads into the adjoining RomanBaths Museum (5). An explanatorytour makes it possible for one to

Partial view of Gijón harbour

8

imagine what daily life at the bathswas like during the first centuries ofthe present era. Restored sections ofthe Roman wall can be seen. Openingtimes: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. -1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundays andPublic Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m.Closed Mondays. * 98 534 51 47.Going for a stroll along the Muro deSan Lorenzo esplanade (6) is verymuch a local tradition -as is strollingalong the Calle Corrida, the city’smain business and shopping avenue.Corrida Street begins at the quayside,crosses the Plaza del Carmen andcontinues down to the Plaza del Seisde Agosto. A short walk from thebeginning of Corrida Street bringsone to Revillagigedo Palace andthe Collegiate Church of St. Johnthe Baptist (San Juan Bautista) (7),where exhibitions of modern art areheld. In the Calle de La Trinidad, one

can visit the Barjola Museum (8),with its display of contemporarypainting and sculpture. Openingtimes: Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m.- 1:30 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundaysand Public Holidays, 12 - 2 p.m.Closed Mondays. * 98 535 79 39.A few yards further on is the ClockTower (Torre del Reloj) (9), whichhouses the local historic archives andis open to visitors. The Paseo deBegoña is one of Gijón’s meetingpoints. On Begoña, just by theJovellanos Theatre (10), is the CaféDindurra, the best example of its kindin a city well supplied with old-stylecafés. Gijón is the café city. Just offBegoña, lies the Church of SanLorenzo (11), dating from the earlypart of this century. Also nearby is theChurch of the Sacred Heart(Sagrado Corazón) (12), on CalleJovellanos. The Nicanor Piñole Art

Revillagigedo Palace and monument to Don Pelayo. Gijón

9

Gallery (13) is in the Plaza de Europaand is open to the public at the following times: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundaysand Public Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m.Closed Mondays. * 98 535 95 94.A good way from the centre, thoughonly a short distance from Gijón itself,there remain two tourist sights thatare a “must”. Somió, a wealthyupper middle-class suburb, is the siteof the Evaristo Valle Art Gallery(14) and its fine gardens, completewith tropical trees. Opening times:Tuesday to Saturday, 4 - 6 p.m.Sundays and Publi Holidays, 12 - 2 p.m. * 98 533 40 00. Continuingthrough Somió and taking the oldroad to Santander, one comes acrossthe Universidad Laboral (15), apolytechnic and agricultural col-lege,and one of Spain’s most imposingbuildings. Granite and marble go toform the structure’s essentialcomponents. A good part of thecampus is open to the public.Otherpoints of interest: the Campa Torresarchaeological park overlookingGijón’s industrial harbour, El Musel.The Campa marks the site of the firstprimitive settlement of Gijón’s earliest

inhabitants. Located in the centre ofthe city is the Railway Museum(16), a retrospective look at thehistory of Asturian industrialisation.Visits can be arranged byappointment, * 98 530 85 75. At theAsturias Trade Fair Showgrounds avisit can be paid to theEthnographic Museum of theAsturian People (17), with its outdoor recreation of rural architecturein the Principality. In the AsturiasPavilion is the Bagpipe (Gaita)Museum (18), the bagpipe being the region’s traditional musicalinstrument. Opening times: Tuesdayto Saturday, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 5 - 8 p.m. Sundays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. * 98 533 22 44.

Elogio del Horizonte (In praise of theHorizon) sculpture by Chillida. Gijón

The Eastern route

The point of departure for this routeis Lastres, a town in the Colungadistrict which retains the imprint of itsseafaring past: in its day, it was awhaling port. Ribadesella is asummer resort town. A bridge dividesthe fishing harbour from the beach.The first Saturday in August, thisbridge acts as the finishing post forwhat is perhaps Asturias’ most

representative festive event, theDescent of the River Sella by Canoe(Descenso en Piragua del Sella).Ribadesella offer the chance of seeingthe nearby Cave of Tito Bustillo, one of Europe’s gems in terms of cavepainting. Opening times: summer, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 3:30 - 5:15 p.m.Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. There is a daily maximum quota of400 visitors and the caves are onlyopen to the public from 1st April to30th September. Visitors are therefore

strongly advised to call ahead of theintended date, * 98 586 11 20.Taking the N-634, the route heads forLlanes. Asturias’ best beaches arenow within reach, including, amongothers, those of San Antolín, Torimbia,Barro, Celorio, Poo, Sablón and Toró.Llanes was founded in the early yearsof the 13th century. There is a townwall and medieval tower, apicturesque port and a beach. A series

of charming towns and villages aredotted about the district. Continuingalong the N-634 towards Santanderone arrives in Colombres, home tothe Indianos Archives. This museumtells the story of Asturian emigration,a fascinating journey that transportsone through time and space to theAmericas. Opening times: Monday toFriday, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and 4 - 7 p.m.* 98 541 20 05. One now heads forPanes and thence to Cangas de Onís,following the course of the prodigious

CANTABRIAN SEALastres

Ribadesella

Llanes

Arriondas

Arenasde Cabrales

Infiesto Cangas de Onís

CovadongaPanes

Colombres

634

114

10

ITINERARIES

Carreñade Cabrales

Covadonga Lakes. Picos de Europa National Park

River Cares along district road AS-114.Before reaching Cangas de Onís, theCabrales district awaits discovery.From its main town, Carreña deCabrales, the visitor -weatherpermitting- can get one of the bestviews of the upward-jutting rockfaceof the massy Naranjo de Bulnes. TheCares Gorge (Garganta del Cares) isalso nearby. This is the mountainouting best known to all Asturians, ascore or more kilometres of narrowroad that tortuously winds along thedefile between Poncebos and Posadade Valdeón (Province of León). Cangashas a hump-backed medieval bridge-known as the Roman Bridge (PuenteRomano)- and the Sante Cruzdolmen, an ancient tomb beneath achapel of the same name. In theenvirons of Cangas is the Buxu Cave,with its rock paintings : There is a daily maximum quota of 25 visitors.* 98 594 00 54 or 608 17 54 67.Taking the AS-262, one starts up the 7-kilometre ascent to the CovadongaShrine (Santuario), cradle of theReconquest. In Covadonga, one can

visit the Cave of Our Lady (SantaCueva), with its image of the Santina -the Virgin of the Battlefield andpatron saint of Asturias- the Basílicaand Museum. From Covadonga, afurther 12-kilometre climb along asuperbly scenic road, brings one out atthe Lakes Enol and Ercina (alt. 4,000 ft.)Once here, those interested arewelcome to take a look around thePicos de Europa National Park naturestudy and visitor reception centre * 98 584 86 14. Returning to Cangasde Onís, one takes the N-534 toArriondas and Infiesto, with theSierra del Sueve Range for company.The Sueve mountain country providesthe last refuge for herds of Asturcónhorses, the native breed which goesback a thousand years or so. Near Arriondas, on the Colunga road,is the look-out point known as theMirador del Fito.Distances in kilometres from Oviedo:Colombres (136); Llanes (102);Ribadesella (84); Panes (126); Cangasde Onís (72); Arriondas (65); Infiesto(45); Lastres (63).

The coastal route

Cape Peña which juts out to sea,marks a sudden, even surprising,change in the coastline. To get toPeñas the best thing is to visit twoseaside towns en route, Candás andLuanco. In Luanco one finds theAsturias Maritime Museum. Openingtimes: Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. -1 p.m. and 5 - 7 p.m. Sundays andPublic Holidays, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. * 98 588 01 01. Lying on the farside of the Cape is Avilés, Asturias’third biggest city and site of thecountry’s most important iron andsteel industry. The town centre hasits share of attractions: thepedestrian precincts marked out byCalle Galiana and Calle Rivero, thePlaza de España with the City Hallbuilding, the venerable 13th-century

Church of Sabugo, and the modernChurch of St. Thomas of Canterbury.As regards civic architecture, Aviléscan offer the Valdecarzana andCamposagrado palaces and PalacioValdés Theatre.After passing through Salinas, aresidential seaside resort built alongone of the longest beaches on thisstretch of coast (where a visit can bepaid to the open-air AnchorMuseum), the N-632 leads on toCudillero, a fishing town perchedon an narrow inlet, with its housespicturesquely huddled along theharbourside. Situated in El Pito, justa kilometre or two from Cudillero, isthe Palacio de los Selgas, currentlyundergoing work prior to beingopened to the public. The road runson to Luarca, a town of whitehouses: in themselves, the local

Cudillero

lighthouse, Atalaya (watchtower)chapel and cliffside graveyard, alonejustify a visit. Puerto Vega, Naviaand Tapia de Casariego take thetraveller to the point where Asturiasends and Galicia begins. The Naviamunicipal area borders on theCoaña district. In the village ofVillacondide, one finds the Coañacastro, a pre-Roman settlement site,excavated for the greater part and invery good state of preservation. Thisis definitely a “must”. Summervisiting hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 11 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., and 4 - 7:30 p.m. ClosedMondays. Wednesdays, no entrancecharge. Visiting hours from 1stOctober to 31st March: Tuesday toSunday, 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and 4 - 5:30p.m. There is a small museum on-site.Separated by the River Eo estuary,Asturias and Galicia are linked by theimpressive Santos Bridge. On thebanks of the estuary, two charmingtowns lie open to the sea, Figuerasand Castropol. Distances in

kilometres from Oviedo: Candás (37),Luanco (42), Avilés (28), Cudillero(55), Luarca (100), Tapia de Casariego(141), Navia (121), Castropol (152).

CANTABRIAN SEA

632A- 8

A-66

Cabo de Peñas

AVILÉS

Luanco

CandásSalinasCudillero

Luarca

Navia

Castropol Coaña

OVIEDO

GIJÓN

Tapia de Casariego

Puerto de VegaFigueras

Palace of the Marquess de Ferrera. Avilés

13

14

The Western route

From Oviedo, take the N-634 boundfor Grado, a town with aninteresting Old Quarter and arather special country market onSunday mornings. En route toCornellana, the road crosses one ofSpain’s best salmon streams, theRiver Narcea. The salmon-fishingseason lasts from March to thebeginning of summer. One soonarrives in Salas, site of theCollegiate Church of St. Mary Major(Santa María la Mayor), medievaltower and house of Valdés Salas.Branching off down local road AS-225, a drive of some 20 kilometresbrings one to Pravia, ancient capitalof the Court of the Asturian Kings,with its Collegiate church andMoutas Palace. Situated inSantianes, on the banks of the RiverNalón, is another of the

monuments that go to make upAsturias’ treasure trove of pre-Romanesque art, St. John’s Basilica(San Juan), built by King Silo in theyears 774-785.Going from Pravia via the AS-235one gets to San Román deCandamo and one of thehighlights of the Principality’scultural and artistic heritage, the LaPeña de Candamo Cave. Thosewishing to arrange a visit shouldKindly call the the Town Hall on * 985 82 80 56. This grotto is averitable shrine to the UpperPalaeolithic, with a profusion ofcave paintings, some classed asamong the world’s finest examplesof rock art. Visits are very muchrestricted in order to preserve the“health” of the murals, which werepainted over a lengthy period oftime dating from 18,000 - 3,000 B.C. A return to Salas is in order beforesetting out on a different road inthe direction of Tineo, gateway tothe westernmost reaches of theregion. Hidden worlds lead to Pola

de Allande, the LosOscos district with itsunique architecture,Taramundi and SanTirso de Abres. Furthersouth, lies Cangas deNarcea and the CoriasMonastery. Mantlingthe Cangas de Narceaand Ibias areas is theMuniellos NatureReserve, a vast

River Trubia. Somiedo Nature Reserve

indigenous forest stretching overan area of more than 50 squarekilometres and constituting thelargest oak forest (Quercus petraeaand Quercus robur) in mainlandSpain and one of best conserved inEurope. Visits are restricted totwenty or so persons per day. Thoseinterested in visiting the park shouldkindly call the Regional NaturalResources Authority (DirecciónGeneral de Recursos Naturales) at * 98 510 55 45.Muniellos is not the sole instance ofvirgin territory. Bordering Cangasde Narcea, the Somiedo districtboasts the Somiedo Nature Reserve,an extensive swathe of woodlandand lakes. The Park ReceptionCentre (* 98 576 37 58) is in Polade Somiedo. For those who wish tobe in closer contact with Nature, inthe neighbouring districts ofTeverga, Santo Adriano and Proazaan abandoned railway track hasbeen converted into a cycling routedubbed the ‘‘Bear Trail’’.Distances in kilometres from

Oviedo: Grado (26); Salas (47);Tineo (70); Pola de Allande (104);San Martín de Oscos (192); Cangasde Narcea (99); Pola de Somiedo(85); Taramundi (183); Pravia (42);Grullos- Candamo (28); Teverga(42); Proaza (26).

CANTABRIAN SEA

GIJÓN

AVILÉS

OVIEDOGrado

SalasTineo

Pola deSomiedo

PraviaSan Román

de Candamo225

634

Cangas de

Narcea

Pola de Allande

Corias Monastery. Cangas de Narcea

16

The Pilgrims’ Way toSantiago

Oviedo Cathedral was the historicfocal point for the Asturian Pilgrims’Way to Santiago (Camino deSantiago), which entered via Llanesand its Monastery Church of SanAntolín de Bedón and wound on,past Ribadesella, Villaviciosa, Nava,Valdediós and Oviedo, among otherplaces. From the Asturian capital,the Way then headed towardsGrado, Cornellana (with itsmonastery founded by the Order ofCluny), Salas, Tineo, Allande andGrandas de Salime. A variant of theWay kept parallel to the coast,going from Cudillero to the Galicianborder on the estuary of the RiverEo. The whole of Asturias isprofoundly coloured by the Caminode Santiago, with small waysidechurches and chapels and venerablepilgrims’ hospices sounding aconstant reminder.

The cider route

Villaviciosa is one of the region’schief apple production centres. TheEl Gaitero plant (visits byappointment. * 98 589 01 00) hasbeen a traditional exporter ofsparkling cider to America. Its cellarsand gigantic casks are worth takingtime out to see. Head along districtroad 113 in the direction ofValdediós, site of the 9th-centuryChurch of the Saviour (SanSalvador), one of Asturias’ pre-Romanesque jewels and an import-ant reference point on the Pilgrims’Way, the route travelled bymedieval pilgrims to Santiago deCompostela. District road 250 andan 11-kilometre drive throughwoods and small villages brings oneto Nava, the cider capital. The CiderMuseum, opened in 1996, * 98 571 74 22. Distances inkilometres from Oviedo: Villaviciosa(42); Nava (31).

OTHER ROUTES

Cider

17

The mining route

Asturias holds out the promise of onelast itinerary of interest. This is theroute through the mines, which haveplayed such a vital role in thePrincipality’s history. Taking the AS-251, some 30 kilometres separatesNava from Pola de Laviana, leadinginto mining Asturias and onwards tothe industrial landscapes of the

Caudal and Nalón river valleys. Onesoon comes to El Entrego, site of theMining Museum, where one can entera mock-up re-created for the visitor,and experience the smells and noisesof a real working pit. Opening times:Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.and 4 - 7 p.m. Sundays, 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. * 98 566 31 33.

Leaving Langreo and its industrialbelt behind, the AS-111 speeds, onto Mieres (12 kilometres). Thetown’s focal centre is the Plaza deRequejo, with its array of cidertaverns. Close by, in the town ofInsierto, is the 18th-century Shrineof the Martyrs of Valdecuna. Thehighway links Mieres with Pola deLena, on the outskirts of whichstands Santa Cristina, a stunning

pre-Romanesque church built byKing Ordoño I. Summer openingtimes: 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 4:30 - 6 p.m. Closed Mondays. Novemberto April, 12 - 1 p.m. and 4 - 5 p.m.Distances in kilometres from Oviedo:Langreo (22); Mieres (20); Pola deLaviana (33); Pola de Lena (33).

Church of Santa Cristina de Lena. Pola de Lena

Asturias’ airport lies 47 kilometresfrom the region’s capital, Oviedo.Regular daily flights link the citywith Madrid and Barcelona, othermain cities around Spain, Paris andLondon. There is a coach servicefrom Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés thatconnects with flights, and coach, carrental and taxis are all available atthe airport.Rail: RENFE (Spanish Rail) runs adaily train service to Madrid andBarcelona (among otherdestinations), with scheduleddaytime and night-time departures.There are central railway stations inOviedo, Gijón and Avilés. Trainsconnecting points in the interior ofthe province and the Cantabriancorniche are operated by FEVE. Insummer this company puts on atourist train, the Trascantábrico, anarrow gauge train which runsalong an exceptionally scenic routeand brings back memories of theold turn of the century railways. The

trip on the Trascantábrico lasts aweek and passengers sleep aboard.As for road transport, a variety ofregular bus and coach services coverthe region. The leading passengertransport company in the area isALSA, whose routes connect uppoints all around the Principalityand a good part of Spain. Likewise,it links Asturias with differentEuropean capitals, such as Paris andBrussels.Asturias is served by a wide range ofhotels and restaurants. There areover 60 five-, four- and three-starhotels, plus many others of a moremodest nature; in addition there isgood choice of small holiday flats,situated mainly in country areas,and some 60 camping sites situatedby the sea and in the mountains.Asturias is also able to offer asomewhat different form ofaccommodation, namely, the so-called Casas de Aldea (CountryCottages), rustic buildings

HOW TO GET THERE, WHERE TO EAT AND STAY

Gijón Parador

19

refurbished as tourist lodgings.Rentals can sometimes bearranged on a room-by-roombasis while in other cases, thecottage as a whole is rented out.A further possibility is affordedby the Casonas Asturianas(mansion-houses), a quality clubformed by 24 hotels of differentcategories, ranging from 2- to 4-star, located in rural settings andlinked by the common denominatorof de-luxe guest facilities andservice. For bookings and touristinformation kindly call the CentralBooking Office at * 98 527 48 58or 902 300 202.The Principality of Asturias is rightlyfamed as one of Spain’s good foodareas, from the most luxuriousrestaurants of Oviedo and Gijón tomodest eating houses in thesmallest towns. In every case, thevisitor is sure to have the chance ofsavouring the delicacies of Asturiancuisine. Most establishments have afixed menu two courses, dessert anddrink at prices ranging from 900 to1,800 pesetas. All suchestablishments are required by lawto display, prominently and visibly, alist showing the prices charged(with or without VAT). Tipping isallowed unless otherwise indicated.Asturias has two Tourist Paradors,the San Pedro de Villanueva justoutside Cangas de Onis and theMolino Viejo (Old Mill) in Gijón, thelattter being situated in the Isabel laCatólica Park, five minutes from SanLorenzo beach.

Exchanging currency poses noproblems. There are banks almosteverywhere: morning banking hoursare 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Some branchesalso open in the afternoon. Thebigger towns are supplied withnumerous card-operated cash points(ATMs).In general, all main credit cards areaccepted in shops, restaurants andhotels, though not to the samedegree in the more rural areas ofthe province.Parking in Oviedo and Gijón citycentres is regulated by a pay by thehour system (known by the Spanishacronym, ORA). In the streets insuch zones, there are coin-operatedvending machines from which thenecessary parking cards can bepurchased. Parking in a so-calledblue zone (zona azul) without anORA card, can lead to the car inquestion being towed away by theLocal Police.

Fabada asturiana (bean and pork stew)

20

Asturias’ natural surroundings makeit ideal for lovers ofmountaineering, mountain bikingand hiking. The AsturianMountaineering Federation(Federación Asturiana de Montaña)can be contacted on * 98 525 23 62.There is a good network ofmountain refuge huts. Those keenon caving will find that Asturias isone of Spain’s leading centres forthis sport. Throughout the region,though especially in the east,numerous firms are engaged inorganising horse and pony trekking.The Indigenous Fauna ExhibitionCentre (Centro de Exhibición deFauna Autóctona) is situated in Sotode Cangas, in the Cangas de Onísdistrict. For further informationkindly call, * 98 594 00 17.Golf: There are a number ofmunicipal and public golf courses inAsturias: in Gijón, Llanes, Noreña,Ribadesella, Oviedo and Tapia deCasarigo, For further informationkindly call the Principality of AsturiasGolf Federation, on * 98 533 91 41.Skiing: The Valgrande-Pajares skiresort is equipped with 4 chairliftsand 9 ski-lifts. For furtherinformation kindly call *98 595 71 23.In addition, there is the San Isidroresort area, on the border with theProvince of León.Sailing: Gijón has a yacht basin (* 98 534 45 43), provided with thefull range of services. The city ishome to a number of sailing schoolsand frequently acts as the starting

and finishing point for regattas.Sailing Federation (Federación deVela), * 98 534 54 76. Canoeing/kayaking: Asturian riversare ideal for canoeing.The first Saturday in August marksthe holding of the Descent of theRiver Sella, from Arriondas down toRibadesella, a festive event ofinternational tourist interest. TheFiesta de las Piraguas is probablyAsturias’ most cherished festivity.Sport and sheer enjoyment merge inan explosion of joy, which begins onthe Friday and does not end untilthe Sunday. The event involves a 17-kilometre race down a river ofstriking contrasts and myriad shadesof green. The strains of “Asturias,patria querida” (Asturias, belovedland), the Principality’s officialanthem, open a race in whichthousands of contestants from thefive continents take part. No moneyprizes are on offer: there is only thehonour of winning.Hunting: Wild boar, fallow, chamoisand red deer are just some of thepieces that can be bagged in themountains of Asturias. The RegionalEnvironmental Authority (DirecciónRegional de Montes and MedioNatural), * 98 510 55 47, willfurnish information as to conditionsand open seasons. The HuntingFederation (Federación de Caza) canbe contacted on * 98 527 63 50.Fishing: Trout and salmon streamsabound. The angling season isspring and summer. For further

LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

21

information kindly call the RegionalEnvironmental Authority * 98 510 55 48; and the AsturianAngling Federation (FederaciónAsturiana de Pesca), * 98 560 10 67.The two most important footballstadiums are the Carlos TartiereStadium in Oviedo, and the ElMolinón Stadium in Gijón. InOviedo, indoor sports are held in thePalacio de los Deportes, and inGijón, in the Pabellón de La Guía.During August, Gijón is the venuefor the International Show JumpingCompetition.

Culture, fiestas localcuisine and shopping

Oviedo, Gijón and Avilés are themain cultural centres. Each has apublic theatre (Campoamor,Jovellanos and Palacio Valdésrespectively) with all-year-round

activity. In September, theCampoamor Theatre is the venue forthe prestigious Oviedo Opera Cycle.Autumn in Gijón brings theInternational Film Festival, while Julysignals Semana Negra (Black Week), aliterary-cultural event which looks tothe genre of crime fiction forinspiration. In April and May, all threecities host the International Music andDance Festival of Asturias. In lateOctober or early November, Oviedoacts as the backdrop for the annualPríncipe de Asturias Awardsceremony. In August, Gijón is the siteof the Asturias International SamplesTrade Fair.August signals the fiestas of St.Augustine (San Agustín) in Avilés, andSt. Begoña in Gijón. Oviedocelebrates its St. Matthew’s Feast (SanMateo) in September. In summer, thefestive calendar is filled with romerías(pilgrimage outings, and espichas(fiestas where cider reigns supreme,held in a llagar, the cellar-like hall

Canoe fiesta. Descent of the River Sella

used for preparing and storing cider).Other traditional festivities include: theFiesta del Pastor in Cangas de Onís(25th July); Asturias Day in Gijón, (firstSunday in August); America Day inAsturias, celebrated in Oviedo inSeptember; the Avilés and GijónCarnivals; La Descarga in Cangas deNarcea, on 16th July, marked by thelaunching of thousands of rockets; theFiesta de los Huevos Pintos, in Pola deSiero, on Easter Tuesday (with a marketselling traditionally painted eggs); theFiesta del Asturcón, in Majada deEspineres, in August, marked by thebranding of theAsturian steed par excellence -theAsturcón- within the context of anopen-air romería.Shopping: Each locality of a certain sizeholds a weekly market selling localproduce, such as the Fabes de la Granja,haricot beans used in the traditionalfabada. Numerous boutiques line thestreets of Oviedo and Gijón. Woodenhandicrafts -clogs, (madreñas) are thetraditional footwear in country districts-and further west, hand looms andcutlery. There is a profusion of jewelleryshops, many engaged in the cutting,polishing and setting of locally foundjet (azabache).

Regional dishesinclude: sopa demarisco(bouillabaisse-like soup), poteasturiano (a richpotage ofbeans, ham,sausage meatand potatoes),fabada (stew ofharicot beans,pork andsausage), fabescon almejas (beans with clams),pescados a la sidra (fish -usually hake-in cider), roasts, ventresca de bonito(grilled bonito), angulas (baby eels),cebollas rellenas (stuffed onions),vegetables of all kinds, trout, stuffedpotatoes, seafood, oricios (seaurchin). Typically Asturian too, are:Boroña, a type of cornflour bread;frixuelos, a fritter-like dessert similarto crêpes; bollo preñao, breadrollstuffed and baked with spicy Spanishsausage (chorizo); callos (tripe);compango is a meat-based side-serving to accompany other dishes,and is composed of chorizo, blackpudding (morcilla), shoulder of pork(lacón) and bacon. Desserts: Candamo

Fine Arts Gallery. Oviedo

Asturias Day. Typical Dress

23

strawberries, rice pudding,marañuelas biscuits shaped like a leaf,rose or crown), and casadiellas (smallfolded cakes with a filling of groundwalnut, sugar and anisette). TheCarbayones, filled with groundalmond and egg yolk, are the typicalpastries of Oviedo, while thePrincesitas are the speciality of Gijón.The local honey is excellent. As for

fruit, the apple is king. There is widechoice of cheeses: Cabrales,Gamonedo, Beyos, Queso Casín,Afuega l Pitu.To drink there is cider (fellow-drinkers sharing a tumbler) sparklingcider and, to the west of the region,wine. Mineral water is available fromlocal springs.

USEFUL ADDRESSES

International Dialling Code: 34TURESPAÑA TOURIST INFORMATION * 901 300 600www.tourspain.es

Regional Tourist Services Department:Plaza de España, 1 bajo, edificio de Servicios Múltiples, Oviedo * 98 510 64 33, Fax 98 510 64 21

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES:Oviedo: Plaza de Alfonso II El Casto. * 98 521 33 85Calle Marqués de Santa Cruz* 98 522 75 86Avilés: Calle Ruiz Gómez, 21 * 98 554 43 25Gijón: Calle Marqués de San Esteban, 1* 98 534 60 46Llanes: Calle La Torre * 98 540 01 64Madrid: Centro Asturiano. Calle Farmacia, 2* 91 522 27 36Mieres: Manuel Llaneza, 8 * 985 45 05 33Pola de Lena: Esquina de Marqués de San Feliz , 2 * 98 549 32 68Regional Tourist Board: * 98 527 78 70

TRANSPORTServiberia * 902 40 05 45Renfe (Spanish Rail) information and Bookings* 902 24 02 02Feve (narrow-gauge railway) Oviedo* 98 528 40 96; Avilés * 98 554 13 48; Gijón * 98 534 24 15

Buses:Alsa * 98 596 96 96Intercar * 98 596 96 96Taxis Oviedo * 98 525 25 00 and 98 525 00 00;Avilés * 98 556 00 00; Gijón * 98 514 11 11 and 98 516 44 44Road traffic Road & Highway information* 900 12 35 05Guardia Civil (Traffic Dept.)* 98 528 17 97 - 98 528 12 66Tele-ruta * 98 577 17 27

POST & TELEGRAPHSGeneral Post Office: Alonso Quintanilla, 1,Oviedo * 98 521 41 86; TelephoneExchange (public booths): Foncalada, 7

USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERSRed Cross (Cruz Roja) *1006Hospital Emergencies: * 061National Police: 091 Municipal Police: * 092 Civil Protection Corps * 98 577 17 77;Public Information Service: * 010 Lost Property * 98 521 98 75 ext. 2159

PARADORS(State-run hotels): Central booking office. Calle Requena, 3. Madrid 28013* 91 516 66 66, Fax 91 516 66 57www.parador.esGijón Parador. Parque Isabel La Católica* 98 537 05 11, Fax 98 537 02 33Cangas de Onis Parador. Villanueva* 98 584 94 02, Fax: 98 584 95 20

SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATIONOFFICES ABROAD

Canada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2w 1416/ 961 31 31, fax 1416/ 961 19 92e-mail: toronto@tourspain.es

Great Britain. LondonSpanish Tourist OfficeManchester Square, 22-23LONDON W1M 5APw 44207/ 486 80 77, fax 44207/ 486 80 34e-mail: londres@tourspain.es

Japan. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105w 813/ 34 32 61 41, fax 813/ 34 32 61 44e-mail: tokio@tourspain.es

Russia. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya – 16/2 Business Center “GaleriaAktor” 6º floor. MOSCOW 103009w 7095 / 935 83 99, fax 70 95 / 935 83 96e-mail: moscu@tourspain.es

Singapore. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04238881 SINGAPOREw 657 / 37 30 08, fax 657 / 37 31 73e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es

United States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211w 1323/ 658 71 95, fax 1323/ 658 10 61e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.es

Chicago. Tourist Office of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60-611w 1312/ 642 19 92, fax 1312/ 642 98 17e-mail: chicago@tourspain.es

Miami. Tourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell AvenueMIAMI, Florida 33131w 1305/ 358 19 92, fax 1305/ 358 82 23e-mail: miami@tourspain.es

New York. Tourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floorNEW YORK, N.Y. 10103w 1212/ 265 88 22, fax 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail:nuevayork@tourspain.es

EMBASSIES IN MADRID

Canada: Nuñez de Balboa, 35w 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain: Fernando El Santo, 16w 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33Japan: Serrano, 109w 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21Russia: Velazquez, 155w 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12United States of America: Serrano, 75w 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03

Written by:Eduardo García

Translated by:Michael D. Benedict

Photographs:Turespaña Photographic Archives

Cover © Juanjo ArrojoDesign:

Megacolor S.A.Published by:

© TurespañaSecretaría de Estado de Comercio

y TurismoMinisterio de Economía

Printed by:GAEZ, S.A.

D.L.: M-24.399-2000NIPO: 104-00-009-9 Printed in Spain

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11.-

Form

er C

onve

nt o

f San

ta C

lara

12.-

Unive

rsity

13.-

Tore

no P

alac

e14

.- Ca

mpo

sagr

ado

Pala

ce15

.- Ol

d Pr

ovin

cial H

ospi

tal

16.-

Chur

ch o

f San

Juliá

n de

los P

rado

s (S

t. Ju

lian

in th

e Fie

lds)

17.-

Chur

ch o

f San

ta M

aría

del

Nar

anco

18.-

Chap

el o

f San

Mig

uel d

e Lil

lo19

.- Fo

ncal

ada

Foun

tain

20.-

Chur

ch o

f San

Ped

ro d

e No

ra

21.-

Chur

ch o

f San

ta M

aría

de

Bend

ones

Ast

uria

sSp

ain

Turespaña

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo

Ministerio de Economía

I

Ast

uria

sSp

ain

Turespaña

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo

Ministerio de Economía

I