south india & kerala 10 - preview (chapter) · classic kerala with its coconut-palm-fringed...
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South India & Kerala
Isabella Noble, Michael Benanav, Paul Harding, Kevin Raub, Iain Stewart
Keralap259
Tamil Nadu p333
Goap117
Maharashtrap82
Karnatakap170
Telangana &Andhra Pradesh
p228
AndamanIslands
p417
Mumbaip44
#̂
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to South India & Kerala . . . . . . . . . 4South India & Kerala Map . . . . . . . . . . . . 6South India & Kerala’s Top 12 . . . . . . . . . 8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 14What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 16If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .17Month by Month . . . . . . . 20Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Booking Trains . . . . . . . . 29Yoga, Spas & Spiritual Pursuits . . . . . . 31Volunteering . . . . . . . . . . 35Travel with Children . . . . 37Regions at a Glance . . . . 40
MUMBAI (BOMBAY) . . . . . . . . . 44
MAHARASHTRA . . . . 82Northern Maharashtra . . 84Nashik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Around Nashik . . . . . . . . . . 88Aurangabad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Ellora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Ajanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Jalgaon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Nagpur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Around Nagpur . . . . . . . . . 100Southern Maharashtra . .101Konkan Coast . . . . . . . . . . 101Matheran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Lonavla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Pune . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108Around Pune . . . . . . . . . . . 113Kolhapur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Mahabaleshwar . . . . . . . . 115
GOA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Panaji & Central Goa . . 120Panaji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Old Goa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126North Goa . . . . . . . . . . . 127Mapusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Candolim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128Calangute & Baga . . . . . . 131Anjuna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Assagao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139Vagator & Chapora . . . . . 140Morjim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Asvem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Mandrem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Arambol (Harmal) . . . . . . 147South Goa . . . . . . . . . . . 150Margao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Colva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Benaulim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Agonda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Palolem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155Patnem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
KARNATAKA . . . . . . 170Bengaluru (Bangalore) . .172Southern Karnataka . . .187Hesaraghatta . . . . . . . . . . 187Mysuru (Mysore) . . . . . . . 187Around Mysuru . . . . . . . . . 198Bandipur National Park . . 199Nagarhole National Park . . . . . . . . . .200Kodagu (Coorg) Region . . 201Hassan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Belur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Halebid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Sravanabelagola . . . . . . . .205Karnataka Coast . . . . . . 206Mangaluru (Mangalore) . .206Dharmasthala . . . . . . . . . .208Udupi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Malpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Gokarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209Central Karnataka . . . . 213Hampi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Anegundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Hosapete (Hospet) . . . . . 221Hubballi (Hubli) . . . . . . . . 221Northern Karnataka . . . 221Badami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Around Badami . . . . . . . . . 223Vijapura (Bijapur) . . . . . . . 224Bidar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
TELANGANA & ANDHRA PRADESH . . . . . . . . . 228Telangana . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Hyderabad . . . . . . . . . . . . .230Bhongir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Warangal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Palampet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Andhra Pradesh . . . . . . 249Vijayawada . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
NATA
LIIA S
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VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE (P214), HAMPI, KARNATAKA
GU
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PALOLEM BEACH (P155), GOA
Contents
Amaravathi . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Nagarjunakonda . . . . . . . . 251Visakhapatnam . . . . . . . . . 252Around Visakhapatnam . . 255Tirumala & Tirupati . . . . . 256Around Tirumala & Tirupati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
KERALA . . . . . . . . . . 259Southern Kerala . . . . . . 261Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) . . . . . . . . . . . 261Kovalam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Varkala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Kollam (Quilon) . . . . . . . . 276Around Kollam . . . . . . . . . 278Alappuzha (Alleppey) . . . 278Marari & Kattoor . . . . . . . 283Kottayam . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Kumarakom . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Kerala’s Western Ghats . . . . . . . . 286Periyar Tiger Reserve . . . 287Munnar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292Around Munnar . . . . . . . .296Central Kerala . . . . . . . . 297Kochi (Cochin) . . . . . . . . . 297Around Kochi . . . . . . . . . . 311Thrissur (Trichur) . . . . . . . 312Around Thrissur . . . . . . . . 314Northern Kerala . . . . . . 314Kozhikode (Calicut) . . . . . 314Wayanad Region . . . . . . . . 317Kannur & Around . . . . . . .320Bekal & Around . . . . . . . . . 322Lakshadweep . . . . . . . . 323
TAMIL NADU . . . . . . 333Chennai (Madras) . . . . . 335Northern Tamil Nadu . . 353East Coast Road . . . . . . . . 353Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) . . . . . . . 355
Kanchipuram . . . . . . . . . . . 359Tiruvannamalai . . . . . . . . . 362Puducherry (Pondicherry) . . . . . . . . . .364Auroville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373Central Tamil Nadu . . . 374Chidambaram . . . . . . . . . . 374Tharangambadi (Tranquebar) . . . . . . . . . . . 375Kumbakonam . . . . . . . . . . 376Thanjavur (Tanjore) . . . . . 378Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) . . 382Southern Tamil Nadu . . 386Chettinadu . . . . . . . . . . . . .386Madurai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389Rameswaram . . . . . . . . . . 393Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) . . . . . . . . 395The Western Ghats . . . . 398Kodaikanal (Kodai) . . . . .399Coimbatore . . . . . . . . . . . .404Coonoor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406Kotagiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407Ooty (Udhagamandalam) . . . . .409Mudumalai Tiger Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 414Anamalai Tiger Reserve (Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary & National Park) . . . . . . . . . . 415
ANDAMAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . .417Port Blair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421Around Port Blair . . . . . . . 425Havelock Island (Swaraj Dweep) . . . . . . . .426Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep) . . . . . . . 431Middle & North Andaman . . . . . . . . . . . . . .434Little Andaman . . . . . . . . .436
South India Today . . . . .440History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443The Way Of Life . . . . . . . 458Spiritual India . . . . . . . . 465Delicious India . . . . . . . . 472The Great Indian Bazaar . . . . . . . . . 483The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490Architectural Splendour . . . . . . . . . . . 494Wildlife & Landscape . . 497
Scams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 504Women & Solo Travellers . . . . . . . . . . . . 506Directory A-Z . . . . . . . . . 508Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 521Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 530Language . . . . . . . . . . . 535Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 558
UNDERSTAND
SURVIVAL GUIDE
SPECIAL FEATURES
Ancient & Historic Sites colour feature . . . 162
Mysuru Palace in 3D . . 190
Kerala colour feature . . 325
Delicious India . . . . . . . 472
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Classic Kerala
With its coconut-palm-fringed beaches and languid backwaters, Kerala can justly claim to be India’s most laid-back state. But there’s plenty of colour and fun to spice up your tropical idyll – lively festivals and snake-boat races, Kathakali dance-dramas, charming colonial-era quarters and a famously flavoursome cuisine.
Spend a day visiting the museums and dining well in capital Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), before making the half-hour hop southeast to beach resort Kovalam. Shift down another gear at nearby Varkala, a holy town with a dizzying clifftop guesthouse-and-restaurant enclave, where you’ll keep active with yoga, SUP or surf-ing. Continue north to Kollam (Quilon) and take the tourist cruise along the canals to Alappuzha (Alleppey) with an overnight stop at the Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission, the ashram of Kerala’s celebrated ‘Hugging Mother’. Reaching Alappuzha (Alleppey), you’re in backwaters central; aboard a houseboat, kayak or canoe, discover what the sublime backwaters are all about. Next, detour east into the tea-coated, very trekkable hills of Munnar. Travel back down to Kochi (Cochin) and take the ferry to the old colonial outpost of Fort Cochin, where seafood barbecues, warm homestays, arty cafes, colonial-era mansions, Kathakali shows and the intriguing Jewish quarter at Mattancherry fill a fascinating few days.
2 WEEKS
26
City lights, historic sites, beachy bliss, jungle adventure and a touch of colonial-era quaintness – this trip will give you a flavour of all that’s fantastic about the south.
Begin in cosmopolitan Mumbai, Bollywood’s beating heart and home to some of the nation’s finest spots to shop, eat and drink. Take a sunset stroll along Marine Drive, a curvaceous oceanside promenade dubbed the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ because of its sparkling night lights, finishing with bhelpuri (fried rounds of dough with rice, lentils and chutney) on Chowpatty Beach. Catch a ferry to Elephanta Island from Mumbai’s historic Gateway of India to explore its stunning rock-cut temples and the triple-faced sculpture of Lord Shiva.
Next, make your way to the dazzling vineyards of Indian wine country around Nashik, sipping award-winning creations at Grover Zampa or Sula Vineyards, an outside-the-box Indian experience. Continue northeast to explore the ancient cave art at Ajanta and Ellora, situated within 150km of each other near Aurangabad. The incred-ible frescoed Buddhist caves of Ajanta are clustered along a horseshoe-shaped gorge, while the rock-cut caves of Ellora – containing a mix of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist shrines – are set on a 2km escarpment. Next up: the tropical beach haven of Goa for some soul-reviving seaside therapy. Wander through lush spice plantations, visit Portuguese-era cathedrals in Old Goa, shop at Anjuna’s colourful flea market and take your pick from dozens of fabulous beach spots, before travelling east to the traveller hot spot of Hampi in neighbouring Karnataka. Ramble around Hampi’s enigmatic boulder-strewn land-scape and imagine what life here was like when it was a centre of the mighty Vijayana-gar empire. Make the long trip down to Mysuru (Mysore) to explore Mysuru Palace, one of India’s grandest royal buildings, learn about ashtanga yoga and shop for silk and sandalwood in its colourful markets. From Mysuru it’s an exciting bus or taxi ride across the Western Ghats into Kerala and Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, a pristine forest and jungle reserve and one of the best places in the south to spot wild elephants. Finally, take the hair-raising road down to the coast and make your way south to Kochi, Kerala’s intriguing colonial-era city, where a blend of Portuguese, Dutch and British history com-bines with wonderful homestays, creative cafes and a buzzing traveller scene.
4 WEEKS
SRILANKAMALDIVES
INDIA
B AY O FB E N G A L
I N D I A NO C E A N
A R A B I A NS E A
Ajanta
Ellora
Kochi(Cochin)
Hampi
Mysuru(Mysore)
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Goa
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27PLAN
YOUR TRIP It
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s
An offbeat trip through the contrasting cities, wildlife reserves and hill stations of the Deccan and Western Ghats.
Start with Maharashtra’s little-visited but fantastic Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, offering some of the best pros-pects for sighting wild tigers, before heading south to the wonderful princely capital Hyderabad with its centuries-old Islamic monuments and labyrinthine ba-zaars. Continue south to the culinary and shopping delights of India’s 21st-century IT capital, Bengaluru (Bangalore). On to the royal city of Mysuru. Gawp at ubergrand Mysuru Palace and try ash-tanga yoga. Head south to Tamil Nadu’s Mudumalai Tiger Reserve or Kerala’s Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, where you can spot wild elephants and take jun-gle safaris, then on to the cool hill town of Ooty (Udhagamandalam), one of India’s most-loved holiday retreats. Take the toy train to Mettupalayam, near Coimbatore, then cross into Kerala and the tea-covered hills of Munnar, with fine hiking and secluded mountain accommodation. Fin-ish with trekking and more chances of a tiger or elephant sighting at Periyar Tiger Reserve.
A journey through Tamil Nadu is a trip into South India’s spiritual soul.
Delve into the rich history of Chennai with a wander around the Government Museum before visiting the ancient Ka-paleeshwarar and Parthasarathy temples. Travel south to beachside Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) and its rock-cut shrines. Move inland to Tiruvannamalai, where the Arunachaleshwar Temple is one of India’s largest sacred complexes. Trade in temples for flamboyant cathedrals over a few days in the delightful old French seaside colony of Puducherry (Pondi-cherry) before heading back inland to the stunning Unesco World Heritage–listed medieval temples around Kumbakonam and Thanjavur (Tanjore). Continue to Trichy (Tiruchirappalli), home to the spectacular Rock Fort Temple and the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, probably India’s biggest temple. Then head south to Madurai and the incredible Meenakshi Amman Temple, widely reckoned the pinnacle of South Indian temple architecture. If you like, wind down at Kanyakumari, the southern tip of India, with its temple to the virgin sea goddess Kumari, or continue west into Kerala.
2 WEEKS
G U L F O FM A N N A R
InDIa
srILanKa
Mamallapuram(Mahabalipuram)
Kanyakumari
Tiruvannamalai
Madurai
Puducherry(Pondicherry)
Trichy(Tiruchirappalli)
Chennai#•
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#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
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É
É#•
#•
T(Tanjore)
hanjavurKumbakonam
Sacred Tamil Nadu3 WEEKS
InDIa
srILanKa
Munnar
Ooty(Udhagamandalam)
Mysuru(Mysore)
Bengaluru(Bangalore)
Hyderabad
Periyar TigerReserve
#•
MudumalaiTiger Reserve
#•
#÷
#÷
É
Tadoba-AndhariTiger Reserve #÷
É
#•
#•
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Wayanad WildlifeSanctuary #÷
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Cities, Hill Stations & Sanctuaries
28
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
er
ar
Ies
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.
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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes:Francis John, Olivia Francis, Pierre Flener, Andy Hughes, D Steele, Daniel Biau, Olivia Veliyath, Peter Van Elsen, Ambar Duree, Katrin Glöckle, Luke Wingfield-Digby, Ricardo Losa Begue, John Marshall, Bob Put, Camilla Malvestiti, Jaroslav Ledvina, Anna Bernhardt.
WRITER THANKSIsabella NobleHuge thanks in Kerala: Paul, John, Roy, Lee, Kumar, Mariann and Philip, Johnson, Daniel, Roy Joseph, Dileep and Tomy, Beena and Varghese, Ajay, Suresh and Sulekha, Debra, Joseph, Yazer, the French yogis, and Mr Babu at Kochi’s Vyttila Mobility Hub. Cheers to Norbu and Sangay in Darjeeling; and to Samit, Ashish, Sanjay, Rahul, Mark, Atalanta, Pawan, Jocelyn, Abnash and Shakti in the Andamans. Extra grateful to my fabulous India cowriters, and, at home, to Jack, Dan, Andrew and Paps.
Michael BenanavI’d like to thank Isabella Noble – one of LP’s own South India experts – for all of her Tamil Nadu ad-vice. And as always, thanks to Luke and Kelly for their patience and understanding while I’m away.
Paul HardingThanks must go to the many friends I reconnected with in Goa and the new people I met on this trip. Big thanks to Jack, Ajit and family in Panaji; Ravi in Vagator; John, Jack and Kate in Palolem; and Joanna and Xavi in Patnem. Thanks also to friends in Kochi and Alappuzha (Alleppey), Philip, Maryann, Johnson, Shibu and Niaz, and to Joe at Lonely Planet for entrusting me with Goa. Biggest thanks goes to my travelling companions, Hannah and Layla.
Kevin RaubThanks to Joe Bindloss and all my fellow partners in crime at LP. On the road, Anil Whadwa and Bagpacker Travels, Pankil Shaw, Jas Charanjiva, Khaki Tours, Priyanka Jacob, Roxanne Bamboat, Sanil Kapse, Sudakshina Banerjee, Ashok Tours & Travels, Sakshi Chari, Sheetal Waradkar, Chirag Rupani, Zaid Purkars and Amrut and Aditya Dhanwatay.
Iain StewartThanks to Jonty in Hyderabad for her insight and helpful tips. I was greatly aided by Prakash in Bengaluru (Bangalore), whose expertise of the craft beer scene and emerging restos is quite something. In Mysuru (Mysore) the folk from Gully Tours proved excellent company, as did the thousands of Hindu pilgrims I accompanied on the Tirumula trek. And thanks to all at LP, including Joe Bindloss and my fellow Team South India & Kerala writers.
Behind the Scenes
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
546
BEHIN
D THE SCEN
ES
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Illustration on pp190-1 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Tea pickers, Munnar, Kerala; Peter Adams Photography Ltd/Alamy Stock Photo ©
THIS BOOKThis 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s South India & Kerala guidebook was curated by Isabella Noble, and researched and written by Isabella, Michael Benanav, Paul Harding, Kevin Raub and Iain Stewart. The previous two editions were also written by Isabella, Paul, Kevin and Iain, along with Abigail Blasi, Trent Holden, John Noble and Sarina Singh.
This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Joe BindlossSenior Product Editors Kate Chapman, Anne MasonRegional Senior Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaProduct Editor Amanda WilliamsonBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, James Bainbridge, Judith Bamber, Imogen
Bannister, Nigel Chin, Joel Cotterell, Michelle Coxall, Melanie Dankel, Bruce Evans, Samantha Forge, Emma Gibbs, Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer, Jodie Martire, Alison Morris, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Kristen OdijkAssisting Cartographers Anita Banh, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Lauren Egan, James Hardy, Liz Heynes, Andi Jones, Catherine Naghten, Angela Tinson
547
Index
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
Aaccessible travel 508accommodation 16, 39, 283,
508-11, see also individual locations
accommodation costsAndaman Islands 425Andhra Pradesh 250Goa 124Kerala 273Maharashtra 87Mumbai 57Tamil Nadu 358Telangana 250
activities, see individual activities
Adivasis 460, see also tribal peoples
Agonda 153-5Aihole 223-4air travel 521, 522
airports 16Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8, 169,
96, 10, 168, 169Alappuzha 278-83, 280alcohol 479-80Alleppey, see AlappuzhaAmaravathi 251Andaman Islands 13, 42,
417-38, 418accommodation 417accommodation costs
425beaches 417cell phones 421climate 417, 419environment 419geography 419highlights 418history 419internet access 421mobile phones 421
Restricted Area Permit 419-20
safe travel 419telephone services 421travel to/from 420travel within 420-1tribal peoples 437-8
Andaman Trunk Road 434Andamanese 437-8Andhra Pradesh 41, 249-58,
229accommodation 228accommodation costs
250climate 228festivals & events 230food 228highlights 229history 230
Anegundi 220-1, 218 animals 497-9, 500, see
also individual speciesAnjuna 135-9, 135antelope 498antiques 514apps 526arak 480Araku Valley 255-6Arambol 147-9architecture 11, 494-6, 11
art deco 165 Chettinadu mansions 388Chhatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj Terminus 49colonial-era 189Mumbai 165
area codes 15, 519art 484-6art galleries
David Hall 298Kalakriti Art Gallery 233-4Kashi Art Gallery 298Mario Gallery 121Museum of Goa 131Tara Books 337
arts 490-3
Ashoka, Emperor 445ashrams 31, 34
Matha Amrithanandamayi Mission 278
Osho International Meditation Resort 112
Osho International Meditation Resort 109
Sivagiri Mutt 271-2Sivananda Yoga Vedanta
Dhanwantari Ashram 266
Sri Aurobindo Ashram 364-5
Sri Ramana Ashram 362Surfing Ashram 209Vivekanandapuram 396
Assagao 139-40Asven 145-6ATMs 515Aurangabad 88-92, 89Auroville 373-4autorickshaws 525Avalanche Valley 413avian flu 532ayurveda 31-2, 291
Asven 145Kochi 299Kovalam 270Madikeri 201Mamallapuram 357Mandrem 146
Ayyappan 467
Bbackwaters 9, 286-7, 322,
328-9, 8-9, 328-9Badami 221-3Baga 131-5, 132Bandipur National Park
199-200Bangalore, see Bengalurubargaining 485basilicas, see churches &
cathedralsbathrooms 510, 519Bavikonda 255
bazaars 18beach huts 509 beaches 17, 2, 9, 13, 326-7
Alleppey Beach 279Beach 1 (Shaheed Dweep)
431Beach 2 (Shaheed Dweep)
432Beach 3 (Swaraj Dweep)
427Beach 3 (Shaheed Dweep)
432Beach 4 (Shaheed Dweep)
432Beach 5 (Swaraj Dweep)
427Beach 5 (Shaheed Dweep)
432Black Beach 271Butler Bay 436Cherai Beach 311Cola 152Elephant Beach 427Girgaum Chowpatty 51Havelock Island (Swaraj
Dweep) 427 Juhu Beach 51Kalapathar 427Kalipur Beach 435Kappil Beach 271, 323Kerala 326-7Kudle Beach 210Marina Beach 341Munda Pahar Beach 426Neil’s Cove 427Netaji Nagar 436Nileshwar Beach 323Odayam Beach 271Om Beach 210Papanasham Beach 271Paradise Beach 210-11Radhanagar Beach 427Ramakrishna Beach 252Tarkali Beach 104Thottada Beach 320-1Wandoor Beach 425
beer 16, 70, 479
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
548
IND
EX B-C
Bekal 322-3Belur 204-5Benaulim 152-3Bengaluru 41, 172-87, 174-5
accommodation 178-9activities 177drinking & nightlife
182-3entertainment 184-5festivals & events 178food 179-82history 173shopping 185sights 173-7tourist information 185-6tours 177travel to/from 186, 187travel within 186-7
betel nut 474Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh
109, 112bhang lassi 517Bheemunipatnam 254Bhongir 248bicycle travel, see cyclingBidar 167, 227, 167Bijapur, see Vijapurabirds 498-9, 500birdwatching
Dandeli 222Hampi 216Ranganathittu Bird
Sanctuary 199Thattekkad Bird
Sanctuary 296Vedanthangal Bird
Sanctuary 357Blue Mountains 402boat travel 522, 523, 525boat trips 19, 8-9, 328-9
Alappuzha 279Kerala backwaters 286-7, Kollam 276Periyar Tiger Reserve
288Bollywood 75, 492-3Bombay, see Mumbaibooking trains 29-30books 440, 459, 471,
486, 491architecture 444, 496food 472, 473, 476, 477,
478, 479history 443, 448, 455
religion 465, 467, 469, 470
wildlife 501border crossings 521-2bouldering 215-16Brahma 465bread 473bribes 514British East India Company
452-3bronzeware 483Buddhism 470Buddhist temples & sites
444, 168-9Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8,
169, 96, 10, 168, 169Amaravathi 251Aurangabad Caves 90Bavikonda 255Bhaja Caves 108Buddha Statue &
Hussain Sagar 235-6Ellora Caves 92-5, 169,
94, 168-9Global Vipassana
Pagoda 51Golden Temple 204-5Guntupalli 169, 252Karla Caves 108Nagarjunakonda 251Sankaram 255Thotlakonda 255Zangdogpalri Temple
204-5budget 15, 507buffalo racing 210bus travel 319, 523-4, 525Bylakuppe 204
CCalangute 131-5, 132Calicut, see Kozhikodecamping 509Candolim 128-31, 130canoeing 329Cape Comorin, see
Kanyakumaricar travel 522, 524-5carbon-monoxide
poisoning 518Carnival 20carpets 483-4car-sharing apps 526, see
also taxisGoa 119Mumbai 80
cash 515caste system 459-60
cathedrals, see churches & Cathedrals
caves 169Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8,
169, 96, 10, 168, 169Aurangabad Caves 90Badami 222-3Baratang caves 434Bhaja Caves 108Borra Caves 255Buddhist Caves, Ellora
94-5Edakkal Caves 318Ellora Caves 92-5, 169,
94, 168-9Guntupalli 169, 252Jain Caves, Ellora 95Kanheri Caves 77Karla Caves 108Lenyadri 114Undavalli Cave Temples
249cell phones 14, 421, 518cemeteries 298, 299chai 480Chapora 140-4, 142Chennai 42, 335-53, 338-
9, 344-5accommodation 342-5activities 341courses 341drinking & nightlife
348-9entertainment 349food 345-8history 336shopping 349-50sights 336-7, 340-1, 342tourist information 350-1tours 341-2travel to/from 351travel within 352-3
Chennamangalam 311-12Cherai Beach 311Chettinadu 386-9Chidambaram 374-5Chidiya Tapu 426children, travel with 37-9
Mumbai 74Chinnar Wildlife
Sanctuary 297Chola Temples 377Christian sites 337Christianity 470churches & cathedrals
495-6Basilica de Bom Jesus
126
Basilica of Our Lady of Dolours 312
Chennai 342Church of Our Lady
of the Immaculate Conception 120
Church of South India 314
Church of St Cajetan 127-8
Church of St Francis of Assisi 127
CSI Christ Church 292Lourdes Church 384Marth Mariam Church
312New Jerusalem Church
375Our Lady of Immaculate
Conception Cathedral 366
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral 312
Puducherry 366Sacred Heart Basilica
366San Thome Cathedral
337Santa Cruz Basilica 298Sé Cathedral 126-7St Aloysius College
Chapel 207St Francis Church 297St John’s Church 384St Mary’s Cathedral 391St Mary’s Orthodox
Church 284St Mary’s Syrian
Knanaya Church 284St Stephen’s Church 409St Teresa’s Church 51St Thomas’ Cathedral 50St Thomas’ Church 409
cinema 492-3Cinque Island 426climate 14, 442, 502, 534Cochin, see Kochicoffee 16, 480Coimbatore 404-6, 405Colva 151-2consulates 511-12cooking classes 475
Assagao 139Kochi 299Munnar 293Palolem 155-6Periyar Tiger Reserve
288Vagator 141
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
549IN
DEX C
-H Coonoor 406-7Coorg region, see Kodagu
regioncosts 15, 513, see also
individual regionscourses
art 341, 485 cheesemaking 407 cooking 55, 141, 189,
366, 475 diving 133, 267, 427, 432 language 341 martial arts 264 massage 189meditation 18, 32,
34, 251surfing 366 yoga 17-18, 32, 107, 147,
266, 341, 366, 404, Covelong, see Kovalam
(Tamil Nadu)craft centres
Kalakshetra Craft Centre 341
Craggy Island 435credit cards 515
scams 504cricket 463-4culture 458-64currency 14customs regulations 511cycle-rickshaws 525cycling 300, 522-3
Dda Gama, Vasco 449dabba-wallahs 69dairy 474dance 331, 490dance classes
around Thrissur 314Karnataka 187Kerala 263-4, 299-300,
307-8Tamil Nadu 366
Dandeli 222dangers, see safe travel Daulatabad Fort 92Deccan Odyssey 529deer 498deforestation 502dehydration 534dengue fever 532dhal 473Dhanushkodi 16, 394Dharavi Slum 56Dharmasthala 208Diglipur 435-6
disabilities, travellers with 508
diving 19Baga 133Calangute 133Chidiya Tapu 426Kovalam 267Malvan 104safety 534 Shaheed Dweep 432Swaraj Dweep 427, 432
Diwali 20dolphin-watching 128dosas 478drinking water 533drinks 479-80
beer 16, 70, 479 scams 504whisky 188wine 86, 188
drugs 504, 513-14, 517Dussehra 193
Eeconomy 440electricity 511elephants 430, 497, 500Ellora Caves 92-5, 169, 94,
168-9embassies 511-12emergencies 15environmental issues 442,
498, 501-2boat trips 287volunteering 36
Eravikulam National Park 297
Ernakulam, see Kochietiquette 442
food 473religion 471temple photography 95
Excelsior Island 435exchange rates 15
Fferries 329festivals & events 19, 20-3,
491, 23Andhra Pradesh 230dance 491 Elephanta Festival 47Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 47Goa 120Hampi 216Jio Mami Mumbai Film
Festival 47
Kala Ghoda Arts Festival 47
Karnataka 172Kerala 261, 312Kochi 300Maharashtra 84Mumbai Sanskruti 47music 491Mysuru 193Nariyal Poornima 47Nehru Trophy Boat
Race 279Tamil Nadu 336Telangana 230
film industry sites 492-3Bollywood 37, 75 Tollywood 237
films 75, 440folk art 485food 472-82, 512-13,
see also individual locations
books 472, 473, 476, 477, 478, 479
cooking courses 475dabba-wallahs 69etiquette 473glossary 481-2Hyderabadi cuisine 240Mumbai street food 66safety 477scams 504spirituality 479street food 348, 477-8
forts 17, 166-7, 496Bekal Fort 323Bidar Fort 167, 227, 167Chalukyan hill fort 248Chandragiri Fort 258Chapora Fort 140Citadel (Vijapura) 224-5Dansborg fort 375-6Daulatabad Fort 92, 166Fort Aguada 128Fort St Angelo 320Fort St George 341Gingee Fort 167, 363, 167Golconda Fort 166, 234-
5, 166-7Janjira 101-2, 167Kondapalli Fort 249Pratapgad Fort 116Raigad Fort 102-3Shaniwar Wada 109Shivneri Fort 114Sindhudurg Fort 104Sinhagad 113-14Warangal Fort 248
fruits 474-6
GGalgibag 160Gandhi, Mahatma 46,
455-6, 488Gandhi Memorial
Museum 390Gandhi National
Memorial 108Ganesh 466Ganesh Chaturthi 20,
47, 23Ganpatipule 103-4gay travellers 73, 514gems 505geography 500-1geology 500-1ghee 475Gingee Fort 167, 363, 167Goa 9, 41, 117-61, 118, 9
accommodation 117accommodation costs
124Central Goa 120-7climate 117festivals & events 120food 117highlights 118history 119North Goa 127-49safe travel 139South Goa 150-61tourist information 119travel to/from 119travel within 119-20
Goa Express 529gods 465-7Gokarna 209-13Golconda Fort 166, 234-5,
166-7Guntupalli 252
Hhaggling 485Halebid 205Hampi 10, 164, 216, 218, 2,
10, 33, 165accommodation 216-19activities 215-16festivals & events 216food 219history 213-14shopping 219-20tickets 214tourist information 220travel to/from 220
550
IND
EX H-J
Hanuman 466Harmal, see ArambolHassan 203-4health 506, 530-4henna 462hepatitis 532-3Hesaraghatta 187hijras 463hiking, see trekkinghill stations 11, 18-19, 332,
5, 11Coonoor 406-7Kotagiri 407-8Mahabaleshwar 115-16Udhagamandalam
409-14Himalaya, the 500Hindu temples & sites 12,
17, 365, 494, 495, 5101000-Pillared Temple
248 Achyutaraya Temple 215Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8,
169, 96, 10, 168, 169Arjuna’s Penance 355Arunachaleshwar Temple
362Ayyappan Temple 292,
442 Bhadrakali Temple 248Birla Mandir 233Brihadishwara Temple
379Channakeshava Temple
205Durga Temple 220, 223-4Ekambareshwara Temple
360Elephanta Island 54Ellora Caves 92-5, 169,
94, 168-9Five Rathas 355, 357Ganesh Ratha 359Hampi 164Hanuman Temple 220Hazarama Temple 215Hoysaleswara Temple
205Iskcon Temple 51Janardhana Temple 271Kailasa Temple 93-4,
168-9Kailasanatha Temple 361Kala Rama Temple 84Kamakshi Amman
Temple 360
Kanaka Durga Temple 249
Kapaleeshwarar Temple 337
Kashivishvanatha Temple 376
Keshava Temple 199Krishna Temple 208-9Kumari Amman Temple
396Kumbeshwara Temple
376Lakshimi Narasmiha 215Madurai 164, 12, 164-5Mahabaleshwara Temple
210 Mahaganapati temple
210 Mahalaxmi Mandir 114Mahishamardini
Mandapa 359Mamallapuram 165Manjunatha Temple 208Meenakshi Amman
Temple 164, 389-90, 12, 164-5
Nageshwara Temple 376Nataraja Temple 374-5Ramanathaswamy
Temple 394Ramappa Temple 248-9Ramaswami Temple 376Raya Gopura 359Rock-Cut Temple 266-7Rock Fort Temple 383Sarangapani Temple 376Shore Temple 355, 165Shri Krishna Temple 314Shri Murudeshwar
temple 211Siddeshwara Temple 248Simhachalam Temple
252 Sri Chamundeswari
Temple 189Sri Jambukeshwara
Temple 382-3Sri Kalahasteeswara
Temple 365Sri Manakula Vinayagar
Temple 366Sri Ranganathaswamy
Temple 382Svayambhu Temple 248Thanjavur 164-5 Thirunelly Temple 318Tiger Cave 354Trimurti Cave Temple
355
Undavalli Cave Temples 249
Vadakkunathan Kshe-tram Temple 312
Vaikunta Perumal Temple 360
Varadaraja Perumal Temple 360-1
Varaha Mandapa 359Venkateshwara Temple
256Venugopala Swamy
Temple 198Vijayalaya Cholisvaram
387Virupaksha temple 214,
223, 2, 165Vittala Temple 214
historical sites 162-9Bahmani Tombs 227Cellular Jail National
Memorial 421Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon
199Hemakuta Hill 215Madikeri Fort 201Malik-e-Maidan 225Paigah Tombs 235Qutb Shahi Tombs 235Sule Bazaar 215Upli Buruj 225
Hinduism 465-8history 443-57
British East India Company 452-3
Chola Empire 446-7 Christianity 448-50 contemporary 457 early civilisation 443-6 European arrival 449-50 Independence 454-6 Mughals 450-2 Muslim expansion 447-9 Partition 454-7 Portuguese 449 Vijayanagar empire
447-9 War of Independence
453-4hitching 525HIV 533holidays 517homestays 510Hosapete 221Hospet, see Hosapetehostels 510hotels 509houseboats 328, 8-9,
328-9
Hubballi 221Hubli, see HubballiHyderabad 12, 230-47, 231,
233, 234, 238, 242, 12, 163
accommodation 236-8activities 236drinking & nightlife 241-4entertainment 244-5festivals & events 236food 239-41sights 231-6tourist information
245-6tours 236travel to/from 246travel within 246-7
IIndian classical dance 187Indian clothing 461influenza 533insurance 513, 527, 530internet access 421, 513internet resources 15
accessible travel 508LGBT+ 514wildlife 497
Islam 469, 495 Islamic calendar 20Islamic sites 495, see also
mosquesBidar 227Hyderabad 230-6Vijapura (Bijapur) 225-5
itineraries 26-8, 26, 27, 28, see also individual regions
ivory 514
JJain temples & sites
Badami 221-2Bhandari Basti 205Chandragupta Basti 205Ellora Caves 92-5, 169,
94, 168-9Gomateshvara Statue
205Sittannavasal 387 Sultanbatheri 318
Jainism 470Jalgaon 98Japanese B encephalitis
533Jarawa 437-8jeep safaris 500Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
551IN
DEX J-M
Anamalai Tiger Reserve
416Bandipur National
Park 199Dandeli Wildlife
Sanctuary 222 Mudumalai Tiger Reserve
414-15Nagarhole National
Park 200Parambikulam Tiger
Reserve 295Periyar Tiger Reserve
288Tadoba-Andhari Tiger
Reserve 100Wayanad Wildlife
Sanctuary 317-18jewellery 484
KKailasa Temple 93-4,
168-9Kakkabe 203kalamkari 341, 485kalarippayat 264, 330, 331Kalipur 436kambla 210Kanchipuram 359-62, 360Kannada language 538-9Kannur 320-2Kanyakumari 395-8, 397Karnataka 41, 170-227, 171
accommodation 170accommodation costs
177Central Karnataka 213-21climate 170festivals & events 172food 170highlights 171history 172Karnataka Coast 206-13Northern Karnataka
221-7permits 204Southern Karnataka
187-206kathakali 330, 490, 330-1
Kochi 307-8Thiruvananthapuram
263-4Thrissur 314
Kattoor 283-4kayaking 19, 279, 329Kerala 41, 259-332, 260,
8-9, 33accommodation 259
accommodation costs 273
backwaters 286-7, 322bus travel 319Central Kerala 297-314climate 259drinking & nightlife 275festivals & events 261,
312floods 282, 311food 259highlights 260homestays 283Lakshadweep 323-4Northern Kerala 314-23Southern Kerala 261-86Western Ghats 286-97
khadi 488Khotachiwadi 51kitesurfing 146Kochi 297-310, 298, 302,
304, 307, 325, 330-1accommodation 300-3accommodation costs
273activities 299courses 299-300drinking 303, 305-7eating 303, 305-7entertainment 307-8festivals & events 300shopping 308sights 297-9tourist information
308-9tours 300travel to/from 309travel within 309-10
Kochi-Muziris Biennale 491Kodagu region 201-3Kodaikanal 399-404, 400Kolhapur 114-15Kollam 276-8, 277Konkan Coast 101Konkan Railway 529Konkani language 539Kootiattam classes 263-4Kotagiri 407-8Kottayam 284-5Kovalam (Kerala) 266-71,
268, 326-7Kovalam (Tamil Nadu) 354Kozhikode 314-17, 315Krishna 466Kumarakom 285-6Kumbakonam 376-8, 378
LLakshadweep 323-4, 327landmarks
Charminar 231 Chinese Fishing
Nets 297, 324Taj Mahal Palace,
Mumbai 47-8languages 14, 441, 533-42
classes 341food 481-2 Kannada 538-9 Konkari 539 Malayalam 539-40 Marathi 540-1 Tamil 535-8 Telugu 541
leatherwork 487leeches 534legal matters 513-14leopards 77, 498lesbian travellers 74, 514LGBTQ+ travellers 73, 514lighthouses
Alleppey Lighthouse 279Little Andaman
Lighthouse 436Madras Lighthouse 341Mamallapuram 359Thangassery 276Vizhinjam Lighthouse
266literature, see booksLittle Andaman 436-8Lonar 99Lonavla 106-7Long Island 434-5 Lunar calandar 20
MMadgaon, see MargaoMadikeri 201-2Madras, see ChennaiMadurai 164, 389-93, 390,
164-5magazines 515Mahabaleshwar 115-16Mahabalipuram,
see MamallapuramMahabharata 467Maharashtra 40, 82-116
accommodation 82accommodation costs 87climate 82festivals & events 84food 82
Northern Maharashtra 84-101
Southern Maharashtra 101-16
Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park 425
Mahé 314mahua 480malaria 531-2Malayalam language
539-40Malpe 209Malvan 104-5Malvan Marine National
Park 105Mamallapuram 165, 355-9,
356, 165Mandrem 146-7Mangalore, see MangaluruMangaluru 206-8, 206maps 514Mapusa 127-8Marari 283-4Marathi language 540-1Margao 150-1markets & bazaars 18,
483-9 Anjuna Flea Market 138Charminar 244Crawford Market 46 Devaraja Market 189Krishnarajendra Market
174Lalbaug Market 76 Mackie’s 135MMC New Market 151Municipal Market
(Panaji) 125 Saturday Night Market
(Arpora) 135marriage 458-9Matha Amrithanandamayi
Mission 278Matheran 105-6Mayabunder 438meat 473-4medical services 531meditation 17-18, 32,
34, 33Chennai 341Hyderabad 236Kovalam 267 Pune 109, 112Tiruvannamalai 362
Meenakshi Amman Temple 389-90, 12, 164-5
mehndi 462Melukote 199Mercara, see Madikeri
552
IND
EX M-O
metalware 487-8Michinoku Coastal Trail 16Middle Andaman 434-6mobile phones 14, 421, 518money 14, 15, 514-16Morjim 144mosques 495
Haji Ali Dargah 50Jama Masjid 225Mecca Masjid 232Miskhal Masjid 314
motorcycle travel 522, 526-7
Mudumalai Tiger Reserve 414-15
Mumbai 11, 40, 44-81, 45, 48, 52-3, 60-1, 64, 11
accommodation 44, 56-62
accommodation costs 57activities 55airports 78, 79autorickshaws 80boat trips 80Bollywood tours 75breweries 70bus travel 78-9, 80car-sharing services 80children, travel with 74climate 44costs 57courses 55dabba-wallahs 69Dharavi Slum 56drinking 69-72entertainment 72festivals 47food 44, 62-9highlights 45history 46internet access 76-7itineraries 46LGBTQ+ travellers 73medical services 77metro 80money 77nightlife 69-72Parsi cafes 63postal services 77safe travel 76shopping 73-6sights 47-54street food 66taxis 80
tourist information 77tours 55-6train travel 79, 81travel agencies 78travel to/from 78-9travel within 79-81walking tours 59
Munnar 292-6, 332, 293, 5, 332
Murudeshwar 211Murud-Janjira 101-2Murugan 467museums
Aircraft Museum 252Anthropological Museum
421Arakkal Museum 320Archaeological Museum
(Badami) 222-3Archaeological Museum
(Hampi) 215Archaeological Museum
(Old Goa) 127Archaeological Museum
(Vijapura) 224Archaeology Museum
(Thrissur) 312Car Museum 208Chhatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 49
Cholamandal Artists’ Village 353-4
coffee museum 256DAG 50Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai
City Museum 50Gandhi Memorial
Museum 390Goa Chitra 152Goa State Museum &
Secretariat Building 120
Government Museum 336-7
HEH The Nizam’s Museum 232
Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya 189
Indo-Portuguese Museum 298
Jehangir Art Gallery 50Joshi’s Museum of Min-
iature Railway 108Kerala Folklore Museum
299Kidzania 74Krishnapuram Palace
Museum 278
Madurai Government Museum 390
Manjusha Museum 208Maritime Museum 375Mattancherry Palace 299Museum of Habitat 255Museum of History &
Heritage 261-2Nagarjunakonda
Museum 251Napier Museum 263National Gallery of
Modern Art 50Nehru Centenary Tribal
Museum 236Puducherry Museum
365Pudukkottai Museum
387Puthe Maliga Palace
Museum 263Rail Museum 189Railway Museum 383-4Raja Dinkar Kelkar
Museum 108RKK Memorial Museum
279Sacred Heart Natural
Science Museum 399Salar Jung Museum 232Samudrika Naval Marine
Museum 421San Thome Museum 152Shree Chhatrapati Shahu
Museum 114St Joseph’s College
Museum 384State Museum
(Hyderabad) 232-3Submarine Museum 252Sudha Cars Museum 237Sullivan Memorial 408Swami Vivekananda
Wandering Monk Exhibition 396
Tea Museum 292Tribal Research Centre
Museum 409Vivekananda House 337Wayanad Heritage
Museum 318music 245, 442, 490-1musical instruments 488Mysore, see MysuruMysuru 13, 187-98, 192-3,
13, 162, 190-1accommodation 193-5activities 189ayurveda 192-3courses 189
drinking & nightlife 196festivals & events 193history 188 shopping 196-7sights 188-9tourist information 197tours 193travel to/from 197-8travel within 198
Mysuru Palace 188-9, 190-1, 162, 190-1
NNagarhole National Park
200-1Nagarjunakonda 251-2Nagpur 98-9name changes
Andaman Islands 419Nandi Hills 188Nashik 84-8, 85national parks & reserves
18, 499-500Bandipur National Park
199-200Eravikulam National
Park 297Mahatma Gandhi Marine
National Park 425Malvan Marine National
Park 105Nagarhole National Park
200-1, 318Sanjay Gandhi National
Park 77Wayanad Wildlife
Sanctuary 332Navratri & Dussehra 20Nehru Trophy Boat Race
279Neil Island, see Shaheed
DweepNetaji Subhas Chandra
Bose Dweep 424newspapers 515Nicobarese 437-8Nilgiri Hills 402, 408Nilgiri Mountain Railway
529North Andaman 434-6North Paravur 311-12
OOla 80Old Goa 126-7, 126Onge 437-8Ooty, see Udhagamandalamopening hours 15 Osho 109, 112
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
553IN
DEX P
-T Ppaan 474painting 484-6, 491-2palaces 17, 163, 496
Aga Khan Palace 108Chowmahalla Palace
231-2Daria Daulat Bagh 198-9Jaganmohan Palace 189Mysuru Palace 188-9,
190-1, 13, 162, 190-1Padmanabhapuram
Palace 267, 395Royal Palace 379-80Tirumalai Nayak Palace
390Palampet 248-9Palolem 155-60, 156-7, 2Panaji 120-6, 122
accommodation 121, 123activities 121drinking & nightlife 124entertainment 124-5food 123-4shopping 125sights 120-1tourist information 125travel to/from 125-6travel within 126
Panjim, see Panajiparagliding 107, 147Parambikulam Tiger
Reserve 295parks & gardens
Botanical Gardens 409Brindavan Gardens 198Osho Teerth Gardens 109Rose Garden 409Theosophical Society
340-1Parsis 63passports 521Patnem 160-1Pattadakal 223payphones 518performing arts 330-1,
330-1Periyar Tiger Reserve 287-
92, 289permits 204, 520photography 505, 516pilgrimages 460
Ayyappan Temple 292Gomateshvara Statue
205Mt Arunachala 362Tirupati 256, 257 Venkateshwara Temple
256
planningbooking trains 29-30budgeting 15calendar of events 20-3children, travel with 37-9itineraries 26-8repeat visitors 16South India basics 14-15South India’s regions
40-2travel seasons 20-3
plants 499police 514political violence 517-18politics 440-2pollution 502, 534Ponda 121Pondicherry, see Pudu-
cherryPongal 20, 23Ponnumthuruthu (Golden)
Island 272population 441
indigenous 437Port Blair 421-5, 422postal services 516-17prickly heat 534public holidays 517Puducherry 12, 364-73,
368, 12accommodation 367-70activities 366churches & cathedrals
366courses 366-7drinking & nightlife 371-2food 370-1French Quarter 366shopping 372sights 364-6tourist information 372tours 367travel to/from 372-3travel within 373
Pune 108-13, 110
QQawwalia 245 Quilon, see KollamQutb Shahi Tombs 163,
235, 12, 163
Rrabies 533radio 515rafting 288Ramayana 467-8
Rameswaram 393-5Ramtek 100-1Rangat 434rangolis 464Rani Abbakka 212rashes 534religion 465-71
books 465, 467, 469, 470, 471
food 479Sufism 245
Restricted Area Permits 419-20, 438
rice 473rockclimbing 223Ross Island 435, see Netaji
Subhas Chandra Bose Dweep
SSabarimala 292, 442safe travel 517-18
Andaman Islands 419diving & surfing 534drugs 139, 504food 477Hampi 220hitching 525Kerala floods 282Kovalam 267Mumbai 76sandflies 420scams 504-5solo travellers 507theft 139women travellers 506-7
sandflies 420Sankaram 255Sanriku Kaigan Railway 16saris 486-7scams 504-5seafood 474Sentinelese 437-8Sevagram 101Shaheed Dweep 431-4shahtoosh shawls 514Shakti 466Shiva 466Shivatri, Chhatrapati 451Shivneri 114Shompen 437-8shopping 483-9, see also
individual locationsShore Temple 355, 165sikh temples 227Sikhism 469Sinhagad 113-14Smith Island 435
smoking 513snakes 501solo travellers 507Somnathpur 199spas 34spice farms 121
Palolem 155Periyar Tiger Reserve
288Ponda 121
spices 472-3spirituality 465-71, 479sport 463-4Sravanabelagola 205-6Srirangapatna 198-9Srirangapatnam,
see SrirangapatnaSTDs 533street food 477-8
Chennai 348 Mumbai 66
Sufi shrinesDargah Hazrat Shah
Khamosh 245Dargah Yousufain
Sharifain 245Sufism 245surfing 19
Agonda 154-5Arambol 147Asven 145Gorkana 211 Kovalam (Kerala) 267Kovalam (Tamil Nadu)
354Little Andaman 436 Mamallapuram 357Morjim 144Puducherry 366Tamil Nadu 354Varkala 272-3Visakhapatnam 253
sustainable travel 487Goa Foundation 129slum tours 56
Swaraj Dweep 426-31, 432, 428, 13
synagoguesChennamangalam
Synagogue 312Keneseth Eliyahoo
Synagogue 50Pardesi Synagogue 299
Ttabla classes 193Tadoba-Andhari Tiger
Reserve 100, 11
554
IND
EX T-Z
Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai 47-8
Talpona 160Tamil language 535-8Tamil Nadu 42, 333-416, 334
accommodation 333accommodation costs
358Central Tamil Nadu
374-86Chennai 335-53climate 333festivals & events 336food 333highlights 334Hindu temples 365history 335Northern Tamil Nadu
353-74religion 469Southern Tamil Nadu
386-98surfing 354Western Ghats 398-416
Tanjore, see Thanjavurtaxis 16, 525-6, see also
car-sharing appstea 480tea plantations 5, 332
Coonoor 406Munnar 292-3Periyar Tiger Reserve
288Telangana 41, 230-49, 229
accommodation 228accommodation costs
250climate 228festivals & events 230food 228highlights 229history 230
telephone services 14, 518Andaman Islands 421
Telugu language 541terracotta ware 483textiles 486-7thalis 472Thangassery 276thangkas 486Thanjavur 164-5, 378-82,
380Tharangambadi 375-6Thattekkad Bird
Sanctuary 296
theft 505theyyam 320, 330-1, 331 Thiruvananthapuram
261-6, 262Thotlakonda 255Thrissur 312-14, 313Tibetan refugees 204ticks 534tiger reserves 11, 18
Anamalai Tiger Reserve 415-16
Mudumalai Tiger Reserve 414-15
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve 295
Periyar Tiger Reserve 287-92, 332
Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 100
tigers 497-8, 500, 502, 11time 519tipping 516Tiruchirappalli, see TrichyTirumala 256-8Tirupati 256-8Tiruvannamalai 362-4toilets 510, 519Top Station 296tourist information 519tours 522, 527train travel 29-30, 527-9
bookings 29-30, 528classes 29Deccan Odyssey 529fares 528food 478Goa Express 529Konkan Railway 529luxury trains 30Nilgiri Mountain Railway
529Tranquebar, see
Tharangambaditransport 505, 521-9travel seasons 14, 20-3travel to/from South India
521-2travel within South India
15, 522-9travellers’ diarrhoea 533-4trekking
Andamans 435Kakkabe 203Kodagu (Coorg) Region
201Munnar 293Wayanad Region 318
tribal peoples 471, see also Adivasis
Andaman Islands 421, 434, 437, 438
Andhra Pradesh 255Chinnar Wildlife
Santuary 297Hyderabad 236Karen 438Nilgri Hills 402, 409Toda 402, 489
Trichur, see ThrissurTrichy 382-6, 386, 383 Trivandrum, see
Thiruvananthapuramtuberculosis 533turtle-watching 436TV 515typhoid 533
UUber 80Udhagamandalam 11, 409-
14, 410-11Udupi 208-9 Unesco World Heritage
Sites Ajanta Caves 10, 95-8,
169, 96, 10, 168, 169Chettinadu 386-7Elephanta Island 54Ellora Caves 92-5, 169,
94, 168-9Hampi 214 Mumbai 7, 50, 165, 495, 7Nilgiri Mountain Railway
414Niligris 402Western Ghats 11, 286-
97, 398-416, 501, 11
Vvacations 517vaccinations 530, 532Vagator 140-4, 142, 9Varkala 271-6, 272, 327vegetarian travellers 476Vijapura 163, 224-7, 224Vijayawada 249-50Virupaksha Temple 214,
223, 2, 165Visakhapatnam 252-5visas 14, 519-20Vishnu 465-6volunteering 35-6
agencies 36
Andaman Islands 425Arunachala Animal
Sanctuary 362-3
Auroville 373-4Kotagiri 408Mumbai 55
vultures 499
Wwalking tours 59, 59Wandoor 425-6Warangal 248water 502, 533water sports 19waterfalls
Dudhsagar Falls 144Hampi 215Little Andaman 437-8
Wayanad region 317-20, 317
Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 317-18
weather 14, 20-3, see also individual regions
weavingChennamangalam 311Kalakshetra Craft Centre
341Kanchipuram 361Sri Mahalakshmi
Handloom Weaving Centre 387
Western Ghats 11, 501, 11 Kerala 286-97Tamil Nadu 398-416
wildlife reserves & sanctuaries 11, 18, 332, 499-500
Anamalai Tiger Reserve 415-16
Arunachala Animal Sanctuary 362-3
Bandipur National Park 199-200
Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 297
Dandeli 222Eravikulam National
Park 297Kumarakom Bird
Sanctuary 285Mudumalai Tiger Reserve
414-15Nagarhole National Park
200-1, 318Parambikulam Tiger
Reserve 295
Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
555IN
DEX W
-Z Periyar Tiger Reserve
287-92, 289Ranganathittu Bird
Sanctuary 199Tadoba-Andhari Tiger
Reserve 100, 11Thattekkad Bird
Sanctuary 296Vedanthangal Bird
Sanctuary 357Wayanad Wildlife
Sanctuary 317-18, 332wildlife-watching 413,
497-9, 500, 522, see also tiger reserves, wildlife reserves & sanctuaries
wine 86, 188
wineriesNandi Hills 188Nashik 86
women in South India 441-2, 461-3
women travellers 506-7, 531
woodcarving 488workshops
Athangudi Palace Tiles 387
Banana Fibre Craft Workshop 221
Sri Mahalakshmi Handloom Weaving Centre 387
wrestling 114
Yyatra 460yoga 17-18, 32, 33, 327
Anjuna 137, 141Arambol 147Assagao 141Chennai 341Coimbatore 404Gorkana 211Kochi 299Kovalam 267Lonavla 107Madurai 391Mandrem 146Mumbai 55 Mysuru 194
Palolem 155-6Puducherry 366, 367Sivananda Yoga Vedanta
Dhanwantari Ashram 266
Vagator 141Varkala 272-3
ZZika virus 533zoos
Madras Crocodile Bank 354
Zoological Gardens (Thiruvananthapu-ram) 263
Zoroastrianism 470-1
558
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/MRT/MTR station
Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Mudflat
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
CampingHut/Shelter
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
Gate
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Map Legend
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Kevin RaubMumbai; Maharashtra Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music jour-nalist in New York, until he ditched the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing. He has since written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Kevin also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers,
and continues pounding the world’s pavements with one goal in mind: membership in the Travelers’ Century Club before the age of 50. His country count currently stands at 93. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram @RaubOnTheRoad.
Iain StewartKarnataka; Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned more than 60 books for desti-nations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain’s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indonesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali & Lombok and Southeast Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent,
Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon.
Contributing WriterpDaniel McCrohan wrote the Booking Trains and Scams chapters.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – October 2019ISBN 978 1 78701 373 5© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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OUR WRITERSIsabella NobleKerala; Andaman Islands English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thai-land, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has cowritten Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a
Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and written Pocket Phuket. Find Isabella on Twitter and Instagram @isabellamnoble. Isabella also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections.
Michael BenanavTamil Nadu Michael is a veteran traveller, writer and photographer who loves ex-ploring places far from beaten tourist trails. He’s written three non-fiction books, including Men Of Salt: Crossing the Sahara on the Caravan of White Gold – the true story of a 1000-mile journey with one of the world’s last working camel car-avans – and Himalaya Bound: One Family’s Quest to Save Their Animals & an Ancient Way of Life, which follows a tribe of nomadic water buffalo herders into
the Indian Himalaya. He also founded Traditional Cultures Project, which documents endangered cultures around the world. When not off travelling, he can often be found hiking in the hills behind his home in northern New Mexico. To see some of his work, visit www.michaelbenanav.com.
Paul HardingGoa As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and off beat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Iceland, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia. He’s on twitter @phtravel and at paulharding.contently.com.
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