source anal ysis here is one of those cases in which one...
TRANSCRIPT
W y o m i n g : ( 3) T e t o n s . During the summer of 1950 two men
in their early twenties climbed Teewinot by the normal
route, east face. On the descent they reached the upper
snow field at 7:00 P.M., and one of them, against the pleas
of his companion, started a glissade. He could not stop
himself, lost his ice-axe, and slid into the rocks at the
bottom. With a punctured lung, broken rib, and concussion,
he continued down the mountain by himself. His companion
inched his way down and searched for him till dawn. He
was found wandering in a dazed condition near the bottom.
S o u r c e of i n f o r m a t i o n : National Park rangers.
A n a l y s i s . Here is one of those cases in which one mem
ber of a climbing team took a careless attitude at the
expense of his companion’s safety. The companion wanted
to belay himself because he felt incompetent to negotiate
the slope alone, particularly on the snow. This type of
climber, who will take risks in spite of pleas to the
contrary, and in taking the risk thus endangers the safety
of other members of his party, must be considered as a
menace to anyone else climbing with him. Such cases re
quire special and careful indoctrination the moment such
an attitude begins to be shown.