solesphere silicas for cosmetic & personal care products
DESCRIPTION
AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gel ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus (light diffraction) properties and to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three studies quantify the advantages of Solesphere gels versus petrochemical-based microspherical materials in prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations. Texture and soft-focus effects are compared, and results show that Solesphere H-121 is the most effective means to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects across many oil formulations.TRANSCRIPT
![Page 1: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/1.jpg)
AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc. Your Global Source for Fine Silica Gels Case Studies: Solesphere™ vs. Other Microspheres for the Personal Care Market October 2013
![Page 2: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/2.jpg)
Introduction and Background
AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gels for use as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus, or light diffraction properties. Also, to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three (3) studies demonstrate this in a quantitative way. Detailed, prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations are used. Comparison of texture and soft-focus effects, relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials, is made. Summary of results are that, Solesphere™ H-121 is most effective to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects, across many oil formulations and relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials.
![Page 3: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/3.jpg)
Three Studies Completed
AGC micro-spherical silica: Solesphere™H-121 1. Oil-in-water (O/W) skin care formulations:
A. Measure of smoothness of application B. Measure of soft focus: matte effect
2. Comparison to other petrochemical beads
3. Using Silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121
![Page 4: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/4.jpg)
STUDY #1
Solesphere™ H-121 Performance in Oil in Water
(O/W) Skin Care Formulations
![Page 5: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/5.jpg)
Study #1: O/W Sample Formulation
COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100
Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0
Phenoxy ethanol 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8
Mineral oil 70cs 5.0 ~ 12.5
Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3
Glycerin 3.0
C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5
D Solesphere™, H-121 0 ~ 3.0
Propanediol 6.0
Order of Addition/ Process Sequence
A: Main aqueous phase
B: Oil phase emulsion
C: Neutral- ization
D: Powder Cooling 40°C
Cooling 30°C
![Page 6: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/6.jpg)
Evaluation of Properties: O/W Skincare Formulations
• Properties of H-121, by content of silica, in O/W skincare formulation: Oil type: Mineral oil(70cs) = 10% Powder: H-121 silica = 0% Control, 1%, 2%, and 3%
Evaluation: A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus
• Properties of H-121, by content of oil
Oil type: Mineral(70cs) = 5%, 7.5%, 10%, 12.5% Powder: H-121 silica = 3%
Evaluation A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus
![Page 7: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/7.jpg)
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture
0.15
0.17
0.19
0.21
0.23
0.25
0 1 2 3 Content of H-121, %
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l Coe
ffici
ent (
MIU)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
![Page 8: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/8.jpg)
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Soft Focus
20
24
28
32
36
40
6 6.5 7 7.5 8
Diff
use
Tran
smitt
ance/
Tota
l Lig
ht T
rans
mitt
ance×1
00
Good
Soft focus
Bad
Matte Gloss Glossiness
3% 2%
1%
Control
H-121 by content
![Page 9: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/9.jpg)
H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture
0.15 0.17 0.19 0.21 0.23 0.25 0.27 0.29
4 6 8 10 12 14
H-121
Control
Mineral Oil Content (%)
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l Coe
ffici
ent (
MIU
)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
![Page 10: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/10.jpg)
H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Soft Focus
20 25 30 35 40 45
50
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
H-121
Control
By oil content %
Diff
use
Tran
smitt
ance/
Tota
l Lig
ht T
rans
mitt
ance×1
00
Soft focus
Good
Bad
Matte Gloss
Glossiness
7.5%
10% 5% 12.5%
12.5% 10% 7.5% 5%
![Page 11: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/11.jpg)
Summary: Solesphere H-121 O/W Study #1
• Data show for skincare and foundations:
– Improves smooth texture properties by 20% and more – Improves soft focus by approximately 30% – Long lasting effect by absorbing sebum and perspiration
![Page 12: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/12.jpg)
STUDY #2
Solesphere™ H-121 Performance Comparison to Other Petrochemical-based
Microspheres
![Page 13: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/13.jpg)
Evaluation of Properties: Petrochemical-Based Microspheres
• Oil Content, 10% of either: a) Triethyl hexanonin (refractive index (R.I.) 1.445) b) Mineral oil 70cs (R.I. 1.4624) c) Phenyl trimethicone (R.I.1.498)
• Powder Content, 3% of either: a) Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica b) Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) (7µm) c) Silicone Resin (5µm) d) Nylon-12 (10µm)
• Evaluation Items: a) Smooth Texture b) Degree of Soft Focus
![Page 14: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/14.jpg)
Study #2: Sample Formulation
COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100
Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0
Phenoxy ethanol 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8
Oil phase 10.0
Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3
Glycerin 3.0
C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5
D Powder 3.0
Propanediol 6.0
Order of Addition/ Process Sequence
A: Main aqueous phase
B: Oil phase emulsion
C: Neutral- ization
D: Powder Cooling 40°C
Cooling 30°C
![Page 15: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/15.jpg)
H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Smooth Texture
Mineral Oil (70cs) Triethyl hexanonin Phenyltrimethicone
Good
Bad Av
erag
e Fr
ictio
n co
effic
ient
(MIU
)
0.24
0.20 0.18
0.26
0.14
0.22
0.10 0.12
0.16
Sole
sphe
re™
H
-121
Silic
one
resi
n (5
µm)
Nyl
on-1
2 (1
0µm
)
PMM
A (7
µm)
Con
trol
Smooth Texture
![Page 16: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/16.jpg)
H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Soft Focus
0.8 0.9
1 1.1 1.2 1.3
1.4
0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 1.1
Mineral Oil (70cs) Phenyltrimethicone
Haz
e R
atio
Soft focus
Good
Bad
Matte Gloss
Gloss Ratio
PMMA
Silicone Resin
H-121/W
Nylon 12
PMMA
H-121
1.5 1.6
Triethylhexanonin
H-121
Silicone Resin
PMMA
Nylon 12
Nylon 12
Silicone Resin
![Page 17: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/17.jpg)
Summary: Solesphere™H-121 Other Microspheres Study #2
• Solesphere™ H-121 silica is a better component
for improving smooth texture and soft focus effect compared to other petrochemical-based microspheres.
• When combined with each oil, Nylon powder is easily aggregated in each oil. – More effective to combine Nylon and H-121 – Improves slippery nature of Nylon
![Page 18: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/18.jpg)
STUDY #3
Solesphere™ H-121 Fine Silica with Silicone
Elastomer
![Page 19: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/19.jpg)
Evaluation of Properties: H-121 with Silicone Elastomer
Silicone Elastomer: General term for paste and a cross-linked silicate polymer Can be used to improve: • Soft touch feel • Matte effect
Evaluation of Texture: • Friction variation • Smooth texture • Soft focus effect
![Page 20: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/20.jpg)
Study #3: Sample Formulation COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100 Up to 100
Pyrus Cydonia seed extract 2% dispersed liquid 5.0 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl polymer 2% dispersed liquid 10.0 10.0
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2 0.2
Muriatic acid poly glyceril-10 1.0 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5 1.5
Glycerol Stearate 1.0 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8 0.8
(Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer, Dimethicone 3.0 3.0
Dicapric acid neopentyl alcohol 5.0 5.0
Glycerin 3.0 3.0
C Sodium Hydroxide 5% water solution Na 5% 0.5 0.5
D Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica 3.0 ーーー Propandiol 6.0 6.0
![Page 21: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/21.jpg)
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Friction Change"
50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Friction times
(# of application strokes)
Fric
tion
ratio
(%)
H-121 Control
Reduce friction of silicone elastomer when drying on skin by combining Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica
Increase friction by evaporating volatile oils
and water.
Friction change (variation) of cream
![Page 22: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/22.jpg)
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Smooth Texture
0.2
0.21
0.22
0.23
0.24
0.25
Control H-121
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l coe
ffici
ent(
MIU
)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
![Page 23: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/23.jpg)
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Soft Focus
25
30
35
40
45
50
3 3.5 4 4.5 5
Soft focus
Good
Bad Glossiness
Matte Gloss
H-121
Control
![Page 24: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/24.jpg)
Summary: Solesphere™H-121 with Silicone Elastomer Study #3
By combining silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121, both smooth and soft touchtextures are improved:
– H-121: smooth texture – Silicone elastomer: soft touch texture
![Page 25: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/25.jpg)
In Conclusion Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica is effective to improve: • Smooth texture • Soft focus • Long-lasting effect Additionally, Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica absorbs sebum and perspiration.
![Page 26: Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products](https://reader034.vdocuments.us/reader034/viewer/2022042510/54b3c9344a795918798b461c/html5/thumbnails/26.jpg)
AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc."
For More Informa,on
www.agcchem.com 800-‐424-‐7833
@AGCChem_Amer on Twi@er