softlines technical manual - saks incorporated · pdf filesoftlines technical manual 2014 . 1...

SOFTLINES

TECHNICAL MANUAL 2014

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction 4

1 Construction Quality Standards

6

2 Children’s Safety Standards

16

3 Flammability and Chemical Regulatory Requirements Canada USA

44 46 50

4 Care Instructions and Labeling Fur Policy Textile Labeling Care Instructions

56 58 59 60

5 Stuffed Articles and Upholstery Labeling Hudson’s Bay Company (Canada ) Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH(US)

68 70 74

6 Laboratory Testing Colour Approval Testing Program

Packages and Prices

76 78 79 82

7 Garment Inspection Criteria

108

8 Mechanically Attached Fasteners

120

9 Needle Control and Metal Detection

126

10 Contact Information

132

Appendix A Forms Test Request From Fabric submit information sheet Lab Dip/Strike-off/Embroidery/Fabric Submission Form

138 140 142 143

Appendix B List of Apparel Testing Protocols Hudson’s Bay Company ,Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH

Appendix C Reference Material

144 150

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Introduction This manual provides details on the technical

requirements for Hudson’s Bay Company banners -

The Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth

Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH. This

manual is for all direct import suppliers of private or

captive branded softline products. The purpose of

the manual is for our suppliers to understand our

performance and safety standards. We are

committed to providing quality merchandise that is

current and exclusive for our customers. We also

value our relationships with suppliers to commit to

our high standard of quality assurance that

ultimately will support business, reduce the number

of claims, and promote sales. Copies of this manual

and all other related documents can be found on

Intertek (ITS) website, by using the following ID

login and password:

The Product Development Process

The diagram on the right gives an overview of the product development process for all private and/or captive brand products. Please ensure you have copies of the following manuals: 1. Social Compliance 2. Measurements Manual 3. Shipping & Logistics

Requirements for Duty Paid Landed (DPL) Vendors for Private and Captive Branded

Merchandise

The duty paid landed (DPL) vendors or domestic vendors for private and captive branded

merchandise, where vendors are the importers of record, it is the responsibility of the vendor to

https://getprotocol.intertek.com/Hbc/default.aspx

User ID: LT\bd.Hbcvendor

P/W: int0235

https://getprotocol.intertek.com/hbc/default.aspx

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ensure the merchandise conforms to the Canadian and U. S. Consumer Product Regulations and

meets HBC, L & T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH private and captive brand

standards.

DPL vendors are required to conduct laboratory testing from nominated laboratory, Intertek

Services (ITS). Private branded merchandise cannot be shipped to stores without a valid and

passing ITS laboratory test report. Detailed lab testing requirements are listed in Chapter 6 of this

manual. This information can also be obtained by contacting your nearest ITS laboratory location or

from ITS website at the above link.

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CHAPTER 1

Construction

Quality

Standards

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Garments manufactured for Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks

Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH must meet a variety of quality standards with regard to their construction.

These standards are given in this section. Additional requirements can be found in the specification

sheet for each style.

Quality Standards for Garments Appearance, overall

Notions are compatible in color, fiber, weight, and design

Plaids, stripes, checks, and other designs match at seams and are balanced

Fabric runs with the nap and one-way designs are cut in one direction

Finished garment is pressed to give a smooth look

Loose raveling and thread ends are clipped

Sectional contrast colors do not show through the seam allowance

Lengthwise grainline is perpendicular to the floor; crosswise grainline is parallel to floor

Belts

Flat, smooth, free from bulk

Uniform width unless a design detail

Interfacing is compatible with the fabric

Closure is durable and secure

Closure is smooth and does not snag garments or scratch wearer

Closure is aligned with center front to prevent gaping when fastened

Color does not crock or bleed onto garments

Belt loops

Correct number of belt loops for the style

Positioning of belt loops evenly distributes the tensions around the full waist of the garment

Clean-finished at the ends and securely tacked

Raw edges of loops are hidden within waistband

Closed with a twin-needle cover stitch

Uniformly stitched, without puckering, skipped, or broken stitches

Buttons

Neatly and securely fastened with thread ends trimmed

Size and design are correct

Buttons are consistent in color

Placement is accurate; distance from edge and spacing in between are uniform

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Appropriate shank is provided to accommodate fabric

Stitching starts and ends under button

Colorfast, and will not fade, chip, or peel

Aligned correctly with buttonholes

Logos have been approved

An extra button is attached to the garment

Buttonholes

Flat and securely stitched

Even in width and length, and adequate in thread coverage

Distance from edge and spacing in between is accurate

Cut on grain

Correct size to fit buttons without gaping


Fabric (bound) buttonholes

Lips are even in width and size

Lips meet at the centre of the buttonhole

Corners are squared

Facing is securely attached to the buttonhole’s back

Machine-made buttonholes

Stitches are evenly spaced and smooth in appearance on the front and back of the

buttonhole

Buttonhole is cut cleanly with loose threads trimmed

Interfacing is in the correct color

Collars

Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched

Under stitching prevents under-collar from rolling over and showing


Shape is symmetrical on right and left, except for intentional designs

Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat

Rolls smoothly or lays flat, according to design

Properly secured inside collar points

Plaids, checks, and stripes are balanced side to side

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Cuffs

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, and under stitched where applicable

Even in width

Under cuff does not show

Interfacing is compatible with the fabric construction and weight.

Darts

Tapered and smooth: free from pucker or bubble at the point

Securely fastened at ends

Symmetrical in shape, length, and spacing

Pressed properly: vertical darts are pressed toward the centre, and horizontal darts are

pressed down

Facings

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched, and understitched

where applicable

Securely tacked in place at seams and openings

Facing edges are free from raveling

Interfacing is compatible with fabric to maintain shape and prevent stretching

Gathers

Uniform, evenly distributed with no pleats forming

Full, and not flattened or bulky

Hems

Flat and smooth, and free from pulls, ripples, puckering, and pleats, unless as an intentional

design

Hem fold is pressed so the hem hangs smoothly at the lower edge

Hem edge is smooth, flat, and free from bulk and raveling

Seams are aligned

Hem edge finish does not create ridges or add bulk

Even in width throughout

Width is appropriate for garment style and fabrication

Topstitching is straight, and consistent in size and placement

Fused hems are flat and fused securely

Hangs parallel to floor, unless the design dictates an uneven hem

Blind-stitching is inconspicuous on the outside of garment

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Interfacing

Compatible with the fabric: there is no significant change in hand

Enhances body and longevity of garment

Color and care requirements are compatible with shell fabric

Free from bulk, puckers, and bubbles

Not visible on inside or outside of garment

Bonded properly without separation after care procedure

Lapels

Lie flat against body

Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched

Reinforced or taped on the roll line in tailored garments

Only facing is visible above the roll line

Seamline is under the edge of the lapel

Inner edge of facing is not visible


Shape is symmetrical on the left and right, except for intentional designs

Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat

Adequate ease is allowed in the fold at the hem of sleeve and sweep

Lining

Conceals inner construction of garment without adding excess bulk

Color and care requirements are compatible with the outer fabric

Fits smoothly inside garment with the seams aligned

If attached at hems, the lining has a vertical pleat for ease at the centre back

If free hanging, the lining is attached at the seams with thread tacks

Does not hang below the garment: must be ½" shorter than sleeves and 1" shorter than

skirts, pants, jacket, and coats

Plackets

Flat, and free from excess bulk


Symmetrical in length and width

Smooth with no gathers, ripples, or puckers at end

Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns match body

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Pleats and tucks

Uniform in width, unless as a design detail

Spacing is accurate

Pressed flat, unless as a design detail

On the grain of the fabric where the design allows

Pockets

Flat, smooth, and free from bulk

Stitching is straight

Placed accurately

Upper corners are reinforced

Patch pockets

Upper corners are reinforced

Square corners are mitered, and round corners are symmetrical

If in pairs, patch pockets are symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design

No drill holes show through

In-seam pockets

Interfaced, under stitched, and lie flat when worn

Inconspicuous unless intentional design

Pocket Bags

Uniformly stitched, without puckering, or skipped or broken stitches

Secured and attached properly

Welt Pockets

Interfaced and lie flat when worn

Ends of pockets are angled in the same direction

If in pairs, symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design

Bar tacked at the ends of welt openings

Flaps (if present) are a minimum of ¼" longer than welts

Flaps are securely backstitched at ends

Pressing

Garment is smooth and free from wrinkles

Garment is free from sheen and scorch marks

No ridges from seams or facings

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Seams are pressed flat

Pleats, tuck, creases are pressed as design requires

Seams

Securely stitched, straight, flat, and free from bulk

Stitches are appropriate in size and tension for the fabric

Fullness is eased smoothly

Crossed seams intersect correctly

Pressed in correct direction

Graded or trimmed, and under stitched where required

Matched to fabric designs where appropriate

If finish is used, there is no added bulk or tension

Crotch seam is secured from front to back and, where applicable, is pressed open

Raw edges are clean-finished, and free from raveling

Shoulder pads

Flat, smooth, and securely tacked

Covered with fabric compatible in color and weight with the garment

No visible stitches on the exterior of the garment

Sleeves (set-in)

Fullness is evenly distributed at front and back cap

Seam is smooth and even in width around cap

Underarm seam is trimmed and reinforced with a backstitch

Seam is pressed toward sleeve cap

Smooth and free from wrinkles

Snaps, hooks and eyes, and other fasteners

Area is reinforced with compatible interfacing

Inconspicuous from right side of garment

Garment lays flat and is aligned correctly when fastened

Stitching

Stitch length and tension is correct for fabric

Straight, and garment is free from broken, skipped, or run-on stitches

Beginning and ending stitch overlap and are firmly secure

Loose threads are trimmed

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Topstitching

Straight and consistent in distance from the garment edge at all points

Stitch length and tension is correct for the design and fabric

Double rows of topstitching are an even distance apart

Topstitching is clean, with no repaired joins

Understitching

Even distance from seam, and does not show on outer garment

Holds seam against facing, under-collar, or cuff without wrinkles and puckers

Prevents facing, under-collar, or cuff from folding to right side of garment

Waistband

Smooth, even width

Free from bulk

On grain

Interfaced with compatible fusing to prevent waistband from stretching and rolling over

Stitching is straight and even with consistent tension

Corners are square

Waistband lays flat and aligns properly when fastened

Skirts or pants are eased to fit the band

Elastic waistband is constructed so elastic does not roll or twist and seam cracking does not

occur when the waistband is fully extended

Stitched evenly when applied

For tailored pants, curtained waistband is made of a fabric compatible with outer fabric

Zipper

Placket is smooth, flat, and free from puckering

Stitching is straight and even

Placket is the appropriate length and width

Seams and neckline edges match

Completely covered unless intended as a design feature

Function well and slides easily, recommended brands are YKK, YBS, HHH

Skirt and pant zippers end at the band

Open-end zipper is secured at the bottom end with a backstitch or bar tack

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CHAPTER 2

Children’s

Safety

Standards

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This section outlines the safety standards that will govern vendors who supply children's garments to

Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF

5TH banners. There is zero tolerance for deviations from these requirements regarding child safety

issues. The vendor is responsible for delivering products that meet all company and regulatory

standards (Health Canada in Canada, Consumer Product Safety Commission, USA), and products

that do not meet these standards will not receive approval to ship. Samples sent for pre-production

and production approval, as well as samples sent for bulk garment testing must be submitted with all

components representative of bulk production. All orders are subject to cancellation and removal of

product from the stores as a result of vendor non-compliance with children's safety standards.

Refer below for Children’s safety requirements according to the type of products and styling.

Outerwear Outerwear top items include, but are not restricted to; outerwear coats, snow suits, jackets,

sweatshirts, vests, sweaters, and fleece pullovers

Outerwear bottoms include, but are not restricted to ski pants and splash pants

A. Hood/neck area on outerwear tops

No drawstrings allowed for any size at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential strangulation hazard

Alternative closures are to be used for hoods

Button closure allowed only for sizes 7-20

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B. Waist/Sweep area on outerwear tops and bottoms Functional drawstrings are not allowed for sizes 0-7 at the waist and sweep area as they pose a

potential vehicular dragging hazard

Functional drawstrings for sizes 8-20 cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when the garment is extended to its fullest width

Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together parts of the garment to provide closure

No bungee or elastic cord allowed

Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped

Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs

Continuous drawstrings must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a longer portion from being exposed

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C. Internal continuous draw cord on outerwear tops The internal continuous drawstring is not allowed for size 0-6 An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed

only for sizes 7-20 The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the

garment It must be bar-tacked at the center back as well as 2” on either side of the center bar-tack The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment

is relaxed If the outerwear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety

loop is not allowed

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D. Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow at waist/sweep area on outerwear tops/bottoms A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for outerwear tops,

except at neck/hood area and outerwear bottoms, except at hem

The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre

Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20

Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes



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Pre-tied Decorative Bow

Non-functional Tie

Pre-tied Decorative Bow

Non-functional Tie

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Daywear

A. Hood/neck area on daywear tops

No drawstrings allowed for any size(0-20) at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential strangulation hazard

For fashion scoop, crew, or boat neck tops a non-functional tie or pre-tied decorative bow is allowed

The tie or bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre Tie ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.

Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must

withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs

Halters and shoulder straps

Functional halter and shoulder strap ties allowed for sizes 8-20 Halters and shoulder straps on sizes 0-7 must be continuous or use alternative closures

Example buttons, snaps, elastic, Velcro like tape or velour tape Size 8-20: The maximum length of each tie from edge of neck to the end of tie relaxed is 15’’

Bibs

Bib closures should be Button, Snap or Velcro like tape with no sharp edges

Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow

Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow

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B. Waist area on daywear tops and bottoms Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow

Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the

center knot Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for sizes 0-20 Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring

Non-functional drawstrings allowed for all sizes Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for

decorative purposes No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement

when the garment is extended to its fullest width

Functional drawstring

Functional drawstrings are not allowed for size 0-4 Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20 Functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when

the garment is extended to its fullest width Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull

together parts of the garment to provide closure No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to

prevent a longer portion from being exposed

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Non-functional continuous bungee cord

Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20 for decorative purposes only

Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside of encasement

Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when relaxed

When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter

INCORRECT

CORRECT

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FLUSH TOGGLE

C. Sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow

Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the

center knot Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes and cannot extend below

hemline Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs

Non-functional drawstring

Non-functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 8-20 Non-functional drawstrings not allowed on hemlines of tops which are loose fitting or below

hip length and bottoms which are loose fitting or below knee length Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for

decorative purposes No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments.


withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement

when the garment is extended to its fullest width Alternative closures example buttons, snaps, encased elastic or Velcro like tape may be used

at sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms

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Non-functional continuous bungee cord

Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20 For decorative purposes only

Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside of encasement

Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when relaxed

When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter

Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop

Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop is allowed only for sizes 7-20 For decorative purposes only Maximum length of total exposed bungee is 2” relaxed Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when

relaxed

NON- FUNCTIONAL BUNGEE CORD WITH SAFETY TAB (7-18)

Length of

Bungee Cordcannot be

longer

than 2” in

distance

Side Seam

Safety Loop

Bungee Cord (must be flush to garment)

Toggle

Eyelet (Buttonholes can also be used)

Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked

onto exterior of casement at Center BackN.B. Must have at least 1/2”

extension into seam

OPTION A

Length of

Bungee Cord

cannot be

longer

than 2” in

distance

Side Seam

Safety Loop


Eyelet ( Buttonholes can also be used)

Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked

onto exterior of casement at

Center Back

Toggle

N.B. Must have at least 1/2”

extenstion past bar-tack

OPTION B

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D. Internal continuous draw cord on daywear tops An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed

only for sizes 4-20 The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the

garment It must be bar-tacked at the centre back as well as 2” on either side of the centre bar-tack The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment

is relaxed If the daywear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety

loop is not allowed

E. Functional Roll Tabs

Functional roll tabs are allowed at sweep area of daywear bottoms all sizes When hem is unrolled, tab length must be shorter than or equal to hem Roll tabs may be attached with buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape Alternative to roll tab is a bungee loop fixed to inner leg and attaching to button on outer leg

for sizes 2-18 only Diameter of bungee loop cannot exceed .75” relaxed or 1.5” when pulled

Internal Functional Continuous Drawstring Cord with Safety Loop

Bungee Cord must be

wrapped through and

through and tacked at

centre back seam 1 1/2” Lining or poly twill fabric

must be 1 1/2” wide.

Length of

Bungee Cord

cannot be

longer

than 2” in

distance

Side Seam

Safety Loop

Toggle


Eyelet ( Buttonholes can also be used)

Centre` Back Seam

2” on either side of centre

Bar-tack

Bungee roll cuff option for sizes 2-20

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F. Sweep area on infant’s gowns

Drawstrings at the hemline of infant’s gowns sizes 0-24mo are not permitted Alternative finishing for hemlines includes zigzag stitching, encased elastic or overlocked

elastic

G. Sashes

Sashes are allowed at waist area of daywear tops all sizes Sashes are to be attached only at side seams and cannot exceed the following maximum

length for each tie

Size

0-3x

4-7 7-20

Maximum Length 18” 25” 30”

H. Belts

Belt closures include, but are not restricted to self-ties, buckles, clips, D-rings or interlocking rings (note: all rings must be seamless)

Metal tips are allowed for sizes 4-20 Hanging ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all government regulatory requirements and pass

mandatory company testing

Free floating belts

Functional free floating belts allowed only for sizes 4-20 Functional free floating belts are defined as a belt separate from garment and of any material

with two loose ends to cinch a garment at the waist area

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Non-functional belts

Non-functional belts allowed for all sizes Non-functional belts are defined as a non-stretch belt attached to garment with two loose

ends for decorative purposes at the waist area Non-functional belts cannot encircle more than half of garment circumference and cannot

be continuous Above restrictions do not apply if belt is fully stitched to garment along all edges

Elasticized non-functional belts

Elasticized non-functional belts are allowed at front waist only for all sizes Continuous portions of belt must be fully stitched to garment along all edges Hanging end of belt cannot exceed 2” relaxed when belt is closed

Non-Functional Belt: Front View

Elastic/web at back waistband must be securedwith a single needle stitch all around

Swimwear

A. Girls swimwear

Functional ties

Functional ties are not allowed at neck area for all sizes

Non-functional ties

Non-functional ties allowed at waist area for sizes 4-20



FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW

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Tie must be lock stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint

Tie ends must not exceed 3” after tying

NON-FUNCTIONAL TIES

Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow

Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes

The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the center knot

Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20

Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes



INCORRECT

CORRECT

INCORRECT

CORRECT

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B. Boys swimwear Functional drawstring

Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20

Drawstring must be internal for sizes 4-7

Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together parts of the garment to provide closure




Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a longer portion from being exposed

Functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the garment is fully stretched

Non-functional drawstring

Non-functional drawstrings allowed at waist area for sizes 2-20

Non-functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the garment is fully stretched

Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for decorative purposes




Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint

Pre-tied decorative knot

A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for swimwear

The knot must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre

Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes


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Alternative closures i.e. buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape may be used at waist area on swimwear

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Sleepwear

Refer to Health Canada for all sleepwear guidelines for Canada and the CPSC for the USA.

Accessories A. Hats and Caps Hats and caps may be secured with chinstraps or ties following the below restrictions

Continuous chinstraps must be elasticized and snug fitting

All Tie ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped


Ties cannot exceed the following

Ends may be secured width Velcro like tape providing there are no sharp edges

Metal eyelets/grommets are not allowed on hats and caps

Size 0-24mo 2-20

Maximum Length with ear flaps

6” 8”

Maximum Length without ear flaps

10” 12”

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B. Mittens No continuous mitten straps are allowed for sizes 0-7

Mittens may be fastened to sleeve opening using clips, snaps or Velcro like tape

C. Booties No ties or draw cords are allowed

D. Snaps and fasteners All children's wear garments in all sizes with snap fasteners must be tested for safety and quality

according to the regulatory standards

All snap fasteners must be made of plastic, brass or non-ferrous metal

Fasteners must be obtained from a recommended supplier or meet all regulatory requirements, and pass mandatory testing.

Refer to Mechanically Attached Fasteners section in this manual for more details on technical and safety requirements for fasteners

Snap attachment method

Snaps must not be applied over seams, stitching lines, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness

Incorrect Correct

Snaps fall on the

seams of 2 facings

Incorrect Correct

Snaps must not have sharp edges or uncovered prongs that can injure or cut the wearer or damage the fabric

The correct snap size must be used for the particular thickness of fabric

The bottom of the post must be flat

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The cap and the post must be curled properly

The two staples must be completely curled

The cap or button must not turn easily

Reused snaps are not permitted

Snaps for outerwear and bottom weight fabric must be spring-loaded. Due to the nature of some material (i.e. PVC) a plastic disc backing may be required to meet company strength standards

Machine attachment

Snaps must be applied by recommended machines or following below

The dies are made to specifically fit the machine and technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps

The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily

No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by QA

The machine is pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are permitted

Snap attachment quality check No gaps can exist between the snap and fabric, as the fabric can slip away from the fastener.

Gaps occur if prongs are too long or fabric is too thin

Fabric must be reinforced with compatible fusing to provide a stable foundation for the snap

Snaps must be set through fabric with a minimum of two plies. For lighter weight fabrics, at least three plies are required

Snaps must be applied with correct pressure. This is checked by;

o Security of fastener – it must not be loose and must not come off easily when pulled by hand

o Pressure of attachment – if a fingernail can get under fastener the pressure may be too little, if fabric appears damaged the pressure may be too much

E. Metal shank buttons Shank buttons allowed for sizes 0-20

Swivel shanks allowed for sizes 7-20

Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing

F. Eyelets/Grommets Metal eyelets or grommets allowed for sizes 4-20 only, must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all

regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing

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Metal eyelets or grommets are not permitted when exposed to skin through regular wear of garment

Eyelets cannot be plastic

Alternatives such as stitched eyelets or buttonholes may be used for sizes 0-3x

G. Hasps/sliders Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauges

Must be seamless

Sharp or pointed ends are not permitted

Hasp/slider attachment method Insert the strap into the buckle/slider, pass up over the slider center bar and out of the

buckle/slider

Loop the strap around through the hasp

Bring the strap back around the slider center bar

Clean finish the strap end and ensure 1” depth

Slider must be seamless

1” Depth

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Findings and Notions A. Hanger loops Mobilon hanger loops are the only permissible loops for children's wear

Hanger loops are restricted to the following maximum lengths

Size 0-24mo 2-3 4-7 8-20

Maximum Length

5” 6” 7” 8”

B. Small parts Small parts are not allowed for sizes 0-3x

Small parts must be accompanied by a choking hazard hangtag for sizes 4-7

Small parts are defined as anything that detaches from the garment when subjected to the relevant

test and can be totally enclosed in a small parts cylinder under force of not more than 1 lb once

detached.

The requirement of small parts for choking hazard applies to all decorative and functional items. If the

decorative or functional item fails attachment strength (HBC 004) or appearance after laundering

requirement, it will then be tested as a small part. If it fits entirely within the small parts cylinder in

any orientation, then the item must fail.

For L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH additional testing required is -

Torque: 4 in-lbs (Not applicable to buttons).

For details on small parts cylinder see of the Canadian Consumer Product Safety Act, (formerly

Schedule VIII, of the Canadian Hazardous Products (Toys) Regulation (HPA)), or ASTM F 963 or

16CFR 1500 &1501 the Consumer Product Safety Commission, CPSC, USA.

Items which may become small parts if not properly attached include, but are not restricted to;

Metal zipper pulls D-rings Buckles Sequins Buttons Snaps Velcro Non-textile appliqué Bow Rosettes Flowers

Items which are small parts and are not allowed on sizes 0-3 include, but are not restricted to;

Plastic zipper tabs Rhinestones

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Beads Eyelets Rivets Press Studs Non-textile appliqué

Non-textile Appliqués A part composed entirely of soft textile is exempt from small parts restrictions

Bows, rosettes, textile appliqués and pompoms are not exempt from small parts restrictions

Bows, rosettes, appliqués and pompoms that fit in a small parts cylinder but do not have an accessible edge of 1/8” will be subjected to five launderings in lieu of pull test

Pompoms Textile pompoms used on sizes 0-6x must be tested to the ASTM F963-96a standard or 16CFR

1500 &1501

Pompom will not be accepted if it becomes loose at less than the required tension and when detached fits through the small ball gauge under its own weight

Pompoms cannot be glued on

Decorative trims Soft decorative components (i.e. bows, rosettes, appliqués) that do not fit in a small parts

cylinder will be subjected to five launderings (on six garments) and visually assessed in lieu of pull test

Bows or rosettes must be bar-tacked or stitched with a minimum of five stitches

Appliqués must be stitched and not glued on

No rhinestones or press studs are allowed for sizes 0-3x

Sequins are permitted on sizes 0-3x only if applied following the Safe Sequin Application Guideline

Beads, rhinestones, sequins and press studs will be subjected 5 washes and visually assessed for 6 garments

Bows, rosettes, and appliqués must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds

Beads Beads are not permitted on sizes 0-3x

Glass or wooden beads are not permitted for sizes 4-7

Natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut) are not permitted for sizes 4-20

Components cannot be glued on for sizes 4-20

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Safe Sequin Application Guideline

Single Sequin Application

Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 6 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch

Each start and stop must be secured and locked

Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm

Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted

Spaced sequins must be sewn individually or connected with 10-12 SPI lockstitch. No thread floats are allowed. Stitching must not break when pulled with reasonable force

Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment. Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams

Grouped/Chained Sequin Application

Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 4 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch

Each start and stop must be secured and locked

Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm

Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted

Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment. Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams

Sewing thread Monofilament thread must not be used on construction seams

Monofilament thread is permitted for artwork application only under the following restrictions

Artwork must be fully fused or faced – to prevent skin irritation as well as potential unraveling

Thread loops of 1” or longer are not permitted

Thread must be applied with lockstitch machine

Buttons Decorative and functional buttons must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds

Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of 2-hole configuration. Buttons 15 ligne or larger should be of 4-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip or break are not permitted

Buttons must be machine stitched secured and locked

Covered buttons only allowed for sizes 7-20 and must be tested to HBC-004 Test Method 15lbs for 15secs.

Novelty/fancy buttons allowed for all sizes with the following restrictions

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Components cannot be glued on

No two-piece rimmed buttons with outer rings

No buttons with metal staples or hooks

No buttons made of natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut)

No top dyed buttons

Maximum shank backing part thickness must be 2mm

Metal sew-through buttonholes must be manufactured as part of the mold. Drill holes are not permitted

Zippers Zippers must be ordered from a recommended supplier (see Chapter 1) or meet all regulatory

requirements, and pass mandatory company testing

Metal components must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing

Refer to Chapter 4 for Zippers with surface coatings.

Pull tabs


Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments

Tab cannot exceed 1” in length beyond bartack

Other acceptable pulls include, but are not restricted to filled soft textile, molded plastic and pompoms

Plastic pull tabs are not allowed on sizes 0-3x

Pull tabs must withstand HBC-004—Pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds

Pull tabs continued

Metal rings or components glued onto button

NOT ALLOWED

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Finishing A. Flame retardant finishes on fabrics Flame retardant finishes are not permitted for any banner ie. HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and

Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH.

B. Stone washing If actual stones are used all pockets must be stitched closed

Stitching must be applied using the smallest number of SPI technically possible (no more than 5-6)

Machine must be set to loosest tension possible

Thread should be cotton and a different shade than fabric, but not contrasting

Hangtag should be included to inform consumer of stone wash procedure and instruct to remove basting stitches from pockets

C. Sharp edges/sharp points-Use and abuse All parts that are hard or stiff (i.e. metal parts, buttons, appliqués, Velcro like fasteners) must not

have any sharp edges, burrs or points

Hook and loop tape must have rounded corners

No needles or parts of needles can be left in garment. A needle detector and needle control system must be used in factory

No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for bundling, tacking or securing components

No mechanical hazards or safety hazards

Any graspable component or decorative item in clothing shall not present any other mechanical hazards

such as pinching, scissoring, bruising, lacerating, crushing, breaking or amputating

All styles for HBC which are also to be sold in Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth

Avenue OFF 5TH stores shall be reviewed by lab against the requirements of CPSIA Requirements

supplemental protocol to determine if additional testing or labeling is required.

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CHAPTER 3

Flammability

and Chemical

Regulatory

Requirements

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This section outlines the flammability and chemical, regulatory requirements of Canada Consumer Product Safety act (CCPSA) previously known as the Hazardous Product Act, (HPA) and United States of America’s Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). It also includes additional requirements specific to Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH . The Flammability section includes regulatory requirements of sleepwear and non sleepwear, fabrics, apparel and accessories.

The chemical requirements cover prohibited and regulated chemicals which are harmful for the user

if applied in excess. More details on these two areas are available on Health Canada and CPSC,

(USA) websites. Vendors are encouraged to refer to these sites regularly for updates and ensure all

regulatory requirements are followed.

Canadian Textile Flammability Regulations (SOR/2011-22) as per CCPSA previously known as the Hazardous Product act (HPA) All consumer textiles other than children's sleepwear must not have a flame spread time of:

3.5 seconds or less - where the product does not have a raised fiber surface.

Four (4) seconds or less - where the product has a raised fiber surface exhibits inhibition or fusion of its base fibers.

Test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008.

CCPSA- Children’s Sleepwear Regulations (SOR/2011-15) Children's sleepwear (up to and including size 14X) has two separate sets of requirements depending

upon the style or design of the sleepwear:

Tight fitting sleepwear (including polo pajamas and sleepers, sleepwear for infants up to 7 kg, and sleepwear for hospital use) must not have a flame spread time of 7.0 seconds or less using the test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008. (Reference: CCPSA ,previously called as Hazardous Product Act - Schedule I, Part I, Item 5)

Loose fitting sleepwear (including nightgowns, nightshirts, dressing gowns, bathrobes, housecoats, robes, pajamas, and baby-doll Panama) must have:

1. An average char length for five specimens that does not exceed 178 mm

2. Not more than one individual specimen with a char length equal to the full length of the specimen (254 mm) (Reference: CCPSA previously called as Hazardous Product Act - Schedule I, Part II, item 40)

Vendor Responsibility The vendor must:

Ensure that the fabric used meets the flammability requirements.

Ensure that fabric for children's sleepwear meets the strictest applicable standards.

Ensure that the style of children's sleepwear he or she is producing meets the requirements set out in the CCPSA

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Co-operate with any product recalls or withdrawals from the marketplace of noncompliant goods.

Flame retardants are not allowed.

Health Canada Measurement Guidelines

Maximum dimensional criteria for polo pajamas (MM)

Maximum dimensional criteria for sleepers (MM)

Sizes Chest Circum-ference

(twice AB)

Seat Circum-ference

(twice CD)

Thigh Circum-ference

(twice GH)

Ankle Circum-ference

(twice EF)

Wrist Circum-ference (twice

I-J)

0 to 2 740 725 410 310 285

3 to 4 780 725 435 320 290

5 to 6X 830 795 470 330 295

7 to 10 910 920 530 350 305

12 to 14X 1000 1040 590 370 315

Health Canada Government regulations on ponchos Subject to flammability regulations in respect to either 45 or 90 degrees (45 degrees is regulatory

for normal apparel and the 90 degrees for children’s sleepwear or loose fitting garments).

Fringes should be: max 1.5’’ for sizes 0-24, max 2.5’’ for sizes 2-6x and max 3’’ for sizes 7-14.

All decorative non-functional items must follow the children’s safety standards in Chapter two and governmental regulatory requirements.

If they are in the sleepwear department it is a Mixed-Style Sleepwear or joined together in the sleepwear dept. it is a Modified Sleeper, both would be tested at 90 degrees, in line with the Hazardous Products Act.

Sizes Chest Circum-ference (twice A-B)

Seat Circum-ference (twice C-D)

Thigh Circum-ference (twice G-H)

Ankle Circum-ference (twice E-F)

Wrist Circumference (twice I-J)

Length of the Top (K-L)

0 to 2 740 725 410 310 285 400

3 to 4 780 725 435 320 290 450

5 to 6X 830 795 470 330 295 525

7 to 10 900 850 530 350 305 590

12 to

14X

980 980 590 370 315 650

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Common Sleepwear Silhouettes:

Cuffed polo PJ Set Footed polo PJ set

Gowns

Robes Lounge Se

Robes

Lounge set

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Canadian regulations on Chemical Hazards Lead content Follow Health Canada's total lead content in surface coating of children's PVC products and on

other children articles and accessories. Total lead must not exceed 90ppm. HBC vendors must

adhere to CCPSA standard. Applicable items include children's raincoats, painted t-shirts, bib

backings, zippers, dyed to-match buttons, and snaps, kid’s accessories and footwear.

Consumer Products Containing Lead (Contact with Mouth) Regulations

Limit: 90 mg/kg total lead or less in any accessible part.

Accessible part – Any part of a consumer product containing lead that may be touched, licked, mouthed

or swallowed in the course of reasonably foreseeable use.

Products Covered

Items for all ages, other than kitchen utensils, that are brought into contact with the user’s mouth in the

course of normal use.

Examples: Baby bottle nipples, soothers, baby bibs; beverage straws, drinking spouts, other drinking aids;

mouth pieces of musical instruments; sports mouthpieces.

Items intended for use in play or learning by children under three years of age.

Examples: Children’s crayons, children’s paints, toys for children under three years.

Formaldehyde Formaldehyde may cause an allergic reaction when it comes into contact with skin. Formaldehyde

content on infants' clothing - sizes 0-6X for The Bay - should be less than 75 mg/kg (ppm). For all

other sizes it should be less than 200 mg/kg (ppm).

Phthalates Phthalates are a family of chemicals commonly used to make vinyl plastic, otherwise known as polyvinyl chloride or PVC, soft and flexible. Studies suggest that certain phthalates are hazardous to reproduction and development and may cause health effects such as liver and kidney failure in young children when products are sucked or chewed for extended periods. Phthalate restrictions are as follows:

DEHP, DBP, BBP restrictions apply to vinyl in toys for children under 14 years of age and childcare articles for children under 4 years of age;

DINP, DIDP, DNOP restrictions apply to vinyl components that can be placed in the mouth of a child under four years of age in toys for children and childcare articles. Limit: 1000 mg/kg per restricted phthalate.

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US Flammability Regulations as per Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is charged with protecting the American public from unreasonable risks of injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. As such all suppliers and manufacturers producing private branded merchandise for Lord & Taylor are required to adhere to the CPSC‘s requirements.

US General Flammability Requirements All fabrics must meet the CPSC‘s flammability standards by ensuring all fabrics have been tested for flammability. The requirements are detailed in the LABORATORY TEST MANUAL FOR 16 CFR Part 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles. For a copy of this manual please click here. http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/testapparel.pdf Fabric complies if designated class 1 for plain surface and class

1 or 2 for raised surface, failed if designated class 3(rapid and intense burning).

Children’s sleepwear flammability standards To protect children from burns, these rules require that children’s sleepwear must be flame resistant and self-extinguish if a flame from a candle, match, lighter or a similar item causes it to catch fire. The rules cover all children’s sleepwear above size 9 months and up to size 14 and require that:

(1) the fabric and garments must pass 16CFR part 1615.4 or 16CFR part 1616.6 flammability tests; or

(2) be "tight fitting" as defined by specified dimensions. Infant sleepwear sized for 9 months or younger is exempt from rules because studies have shown that infants in this range lack mobility, which significantly reduces the risk of injury from clothing burns

Requirements to be considered for infant sleepwear (sizes 0 through 9 months): Sleepwear is sized 9 months or smaller; If a one-piece garment, does not exceed 64.8 centimeters (25.75 inches) in length; if a two-piece garment, has no piece exceeding 40 centimeters (15.75 inches) in length; Complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing Textiles (16 CFR part 1610) and the Standard for the Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611); Bears a label stating the size of the garment, expressed in terms of months of age. For example, “0 to 3 mos.” or “9 mos.” If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is offered for sale at retail, the same information must appear legibly on the package of the garment.

Requirements to be considered a tight fitting sleepwear (9 mos-14 years):

(1) Sized for 9 months and up to 14 years:

(a)Size 2 through 6X mean the sizes defined as 6 through 6X in Department of Commerce Voluntary Product Standard, previously identified as Commercial Standard, CS 151–

http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/testapparel.pdf

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50 “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Apparel for Infants, Babies, Toddlers, and Children.”; (b) Sizes 7 through 14 means the sizes defined as 7 through 14 in Department of Commerce Voluntary Product Standards PS 54–72 and PS 36–70, previously identified as Commercial Standards, CS 153–48, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Girls' Apparel” and CS 155–50, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Boys' Apparel”, respectively.

(2) does not exceed the max dimensions for the chest, waist, seat, upper arm, thigh, wrist, or ankle listed In 16 C.F.R. PART 1615 and 16 C.F.R. PART 1616;

Snug fitting Sleepwear maximum dimensions

(3) Have no fabric ornament or trim, such as lace or ribbon, which extends more than ¼ inch(6 mm) from the point at which it is attached to the garment; (4) Have sleeves that taper from the shoulders to the ends of the sleeves; (5) Have pant legs that taper from the thighs to the ends of the pant legs; (6) For 1-piece - taper from the chest down to the waist and from the seat up to the waist; (7) For 2-piece: (a) Have an upper piece that tapers from the chest to the bottom of the piece, (b) If the upper piece has fastenings, have the lowest fastening located within 6 inches of the bottom of the piece, and (c) Have a lower piece that tapers from the seat to the top of the piece;

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(8) Bears a label stating the size of the garment; for example “Size 7.” If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is offered for sale at retail, the garment size must appear legibly on the package of the garment. (9) bear a hang tag alerting buyers that the garments are not flame-resistant and should be worn snug fitting because loose-fitting garments are more likely to catch fire;

(10) complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing Textiles (16 CFR part 1610)( comply if designated class 1 for plain surface and class 2 for raised surface, failed if designated class 3-rapid and intense burning) and the Standard for the Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611) (The rate of burning shall not exceed 1.2 in./sec as judged by the average of five determinations lengthwise and five determinations transverse to the direction of processing). (10.1) 16 CFR part 1610 fabric exemptions (fabric complies requirements) if:

Plain surface fabrics weight is 88.2 g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2) or greater, OR

Plain or raised surface fabrics made entirely from or combinations of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, or wool. (10.2) 16 CFR part 1610 Standard exceptions: (a) Interlinings, provided they are sold for the purpose of covered or unexposed interlinings (b) Hats, provided they not a covering for the neck, face, or shoulders when worn by an individuals (c) Gloves, provided longer than 14 inches and/or attached to a garment Footwear that doesn’t consist of hosiery in whole or part or does not form an integral part of another garment (11) Bear a label “Wear snug fitting, Not flame resistant”

All types children’s sleepwear requirements (sizes 0-14): (1) Each article of children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with instructions on how to take care of the garment to protect it from chemicals or other treatments that can reduce its flame resistance; If care instruction appears on label reverse side-“CARE INSTRUCTION ON REVERSE should appear on label outside. If sleepwear item was tested after 1 wash, “WASH BEFORE WEARING” must be labeled. (2) Children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with 0.5 inch heigh and 0.75 inch wide min dimensions with a unit identification (number, letter, date, or combination thereof) so manufacturers can track the garment's associated fabric and garment production lots in the event of a recall;

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(3) Manufacturers and importers must maintain written records as specified in the regulations; For additional information regarding fabric, prototype seam and trim, production garment seam testing and further details please refer: 16 C.F.R. PART 1610—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CLOTHING TEXTILES http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.68.html

PART 1611—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF VINYL PLASTIC FILM http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.69.html

16 C.F.R. PART 1616—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 7 THROUGH 14 (FF 5–74) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.71.html

16 C.F.R. PART 1615—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 0 THROUGH 6X (FF 3–71) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.70.html

US, CPSC regulations on Chemical Hazards

Lead: Lead in surface Coating,16 CFR1303 It includes but not limited to painted snaps, and scrapable graphics

Requirement – Max allowed 90 ppm, Manufacturers guarantee

Lead in substrate, EPA 3050b

Requirement –Max allowe-100 ppm

Exceptions –inaccessible component parts and components listed in 16 CFR1500.91 (D) & (E)

Phthalates-US Product Consumer Safety Improvement Act 2008

Any childcare article including clothing for children less than 12 years of age restrict the following:

Concentration of more than .01%

DEHP, DBP, BBP

Any toys placed in a child’s mouth and childcare article that should not contain below phthalates

with the concentrations of more than 0.1%

DINP, DIDP, DNIP

Formaldehyde-JIS-1041

Requirements: Children < 75 ppm , Adult <300 ppm

Direct or indirect contact with the skin. Also supplier’s guarantee is required.

http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.68.html






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Colorfastness to Saliva--64 LFGB B82.10-1

Requirement - Solution no 1 only, AATCC grey scale 4

Wash and corrosion durability

At development stage only, all metal parts included

Use all standard solutions plus exposure to saliva

Requirement-No Corrosion, oxidation or discoloration is allowed

Nickel

Metal accessories for layette, infants, toddlers, kids products must be nickel free. Exception-Small

metal items (snaps, small buttons etc) with low amount of nickel may pass the metal detector test

and such items can be used provided they do not come I contact with the skin for prolonged time.

California Proposition 65 – Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986

Proposition 65, the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, was enacted as a ballot initiative in November 1986. The Proposition was intended by its authors to protect California citizens and the State’s drinking water sources from chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm, and to inform citizens about exposure to such chemicals. For more information, please refer to http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html

Additional requirements for CPSC, USA

Tracking Label for Children’s products Products for Children 12 years of age or under require a tracking label. The tracking label must contain

information that will enable the manufacturer to ascertain the location and date of production of the

product and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic) and

any other information determined by the manufacturer to facilitate ascertaining the specific source of the

product by reference to those marks.

According to section 103 of CPSIA, tracking label must contain information that will enable the ultimate

purchaser to ascertain the manufacturer or private labeler, location and date of production of the product,

and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic). For more

information refer to link, http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/103faq.html or contact your nearest

ITS lab. Appendix C contains reference material for setting up a tracking label.

Conformity Certificate The US law requires that each import (and domestic manufacturer) shipment be "accompanied" by

the required certificate. Certificate must include all applicable CPSC rules, standards, bans, or

regulations. Under the Commission's rule at for products manufactured overseas, the certificate

must be issued by the importer. For products produced domestically, the certificate must be issued

by the U.S. manufacturer. The importer or U.S. manufacturer is required to "furnish" the certificate

to its distributors and retailers. The Commission's rule states that this requirement is satisfied if

the importer or U.S. manufacturer provides its distributors and retailers a reasonable means to

access the certificate.

Please see the following link for more information or contact your nearest Intertek lab.

http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html

http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/103faq.html

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http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr09/certification.pdf

Note-The information about regulatory requirements for Canada and USA are being provided for reference only. It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure that they frequently check and comply with all updated regulations and requirements depending on the type of product and styling.

http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr09/certification.pdf

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CHAPTER 4

Care

Instructions and

Labeling

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The vendor is responsible for labeling and packaging for softlines products. The regulations and

guidelines for label and package use are very detailed, so it is important that the vendor read this

section carefully. It outlines Regulatory and mandated labeling and packaging guidelines and

provides reference material on care instructions. The nominated label suppliers for HBC and L&T

are SML, Avery Denison, Cadica and Nexgen. Avery Denison is nominated supplier for Saks Fifth

Avenue and for Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, International Trimming and Labels (ITL) is a

nominated supplier.

Fur Policy and labeling for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH

Any products that contain real or faux fur (no matter how small the quantity) must be properly labeled on all items, and show the fur’s country of origin. Any advertisements must also have the disclosure “fur products labeled to show country of origin of imported furs”, see below for examples for real fur. Products that have faux fur must be labelled as faux fur or fake fur. Apparel and Accessories with Faux Fur or Fake Fur in any amount must follow fiber content textile labeling and ensure to call out that it is Faux fur or Fake fur on the label. It is company policy that we do not purchase items that may contain fur from the "asiatic raccoon"

also referred to as the "raccoon dog", or dog and cat fur.

Items with real fur trim must be supplied from legitimate factories/suppliers with proper

documentation to confirm legitimacy. Canada and the U.S. have legislation in place for health and

safety procedures in abattoirs and fur farms to ensure fur has been removed in a humane manner.

All accessories or apparel items that have fur or fur trim will require documentation confirming

origin of species and source country.

Any suppliers who have engaged in fraudulent practices of exporting fur or mislabeling origin of

species will be penalized and goods will not be accepted.

Additionally the label for Real Fur should disclose; If the fur is pointed, printed, dyed, bleached, or artificially colored.

If none of these treatments applies, the fur should be labeled as “natural.”, followed by the animal

name.

If the fur product is composed in whole or substantial part (more than 10 percent of surface area) of

pieces such as paws, tails, sides, flanks, gills, ears ,throats, heads, scraps or waste fur.

If the fur is used or damaged.

The textile or wool content of any part of the content. For example a wool coat with fur trim, the

label must disclose the wool content as required by Wool Act and Rules

The content of fur coat lining must be disclosed if lining provides added warmth. If the lining serves

only structural purposes, its fiber does not have to be disclosed.

Examples of Real Fur Country of Origin labeling:

Rabbit fur from China Fourrure de lapin de Chine Rabbit fur trimming from China Garniture en fourrure de lapin de Chine Rabbit fur pompom from China Pompon en fourrure de lapin de Chine

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HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH textile labeling requirements

Under federal requirements, manufacturers, retailers, importers, and distributors are required to

abide by the following regulations concerning labels:

The country of origin must be displayed on a permanent label, see Appendix C for examples. The type of fibers contained in the fabric must be displayed by generic name (e.g. cotton,

nylon, rayon, etc.). Each fiber present in the amount of five (5) per cent or more of the garment must be

declared as a percentage of the total fiber weight of the article. These percentages must be listed in descending order.

Sectional disclosure is required for items having sections or parts differing in fiber content; for example, if the body and sleeve have different fiber content, then each section’s content must be declared on the label.

All labels must display the correct CA identification number: CA #00234 for The Bay products

All labels must display the correct RN identification number: RN #123455 for L&T and RN#92087 for SAKS products .

Garment labels must be permanently attached and be able to withstand 10 cleanings or the useful life of the article, whichever is less. The label, the care, and any additional written information must remain legible for this length of time.

Non-permanent labels are acceptable on items such as undergarments, gloves, and headwear. Care Label must be sewn in permanently and must comply with regulations. If label is not

visible through packaging, care must be repeated on packaging. For Saks Fifth Avenue, care labeling symbols are used .Refer below for more details at the

end of this chapter. Additional requirements for Canada

Label must be both in English and French of equal size in letters no smaller than 1.6 mm. French is required on all product labeling and packaging and anything that is written in

English must also be in French. The French inscriptions cannot be smaller than those in English language and must be flawless. HBC further requires that care instruction labels should be taffeta ribbon or woven. Paper labels are not permitted.

Label placement For label placement please, refer to applicable textile labeling requirements for country of origin and

Brand Label Kits or Contact Buyer for requirements.

Care Instructions

Vendors may find the care instructions and care codes on the following pages. This can also be

provided on the Packaging & Labeling/Trim Detail sheets of the Technical Specification Packs.

To determine the proper care instructions at the time of laboratory testing, please use the

proposed/recommended care mentioned in charts below and then refer to testing report for

confirmation or laboratory suggested care.

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Recommended care instructions with codes by end use and fabrics/yarns:

WOVENS

PRODUCT FIBER CONTENT CARE

Tops & Bottoms Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acetate and blends with them

3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (Cotton,

Linen) OR 62/62a (Other Fibers), 87/87a

Silk and silk blends, wool and wool blends, Rayon, Viscose & Modal

4/4a, 34/34a, 43/43a, 62/62a OR 81/81a

Linen and Linen Blends 4/4a, 34/34a, 44/44a or 41/41a 61/61a , 87/87a

Tops & Bottoms with Beads, Sequins, Glitter, Foil prints &/or Delicate fabrics

All fibers Delicate fabrics: 4/4a or 5/5a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 68/68a, 70/70a, 81/81a With Embellishments: 5/5a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a, 67/67a

Denim Cotton, Cotton Blends and Stretch Denims 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a

Blazer, Jackets lined/unlined

All fibers 4/4a, or 108/108a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 65/65a, 87/87a

Outerwear All fibers with/without coating/laminating/film, except wool

4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 65/65a, 82/82a

Wool 81/81a

Sleepwear & Robes 100% Cotton/Blends including brushed & Terry 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a

Sleepwear & Robes All synthetic fibers including brushed and terry 4/4a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a

Sleepwear & Robes Silks, Wool, Merino & Cashmere 5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a 87/87a

Leather Garments Lined and unlined 85/85a

KNITS


Dresses, Jackets/Blazers-unlined, pants, shorts, rompers, jumpsuits, overalls, skirts, Sleepwear & Robes

Cotton, linen, nylon, Rayon, polyester and blends with these fibers,

3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 84/84a (applicable to linen only)

Tops and T-shirts all fibers except Linen and linen blends 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (cottons) or62/62a other fiber

Knitted tops/Tees and bottoms Linen and Linen Blends 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a or 84/84a

Jog Suits, Sweatshirts, Pants, Shorts and Jackets-

Velour, microfleece, polar or jersey Fleece; 100% cotton, 100% Synthetic and cotton/polyester, cotton/nylon and cotton/spandex blends including Brushed and Pile fabrics

3/3a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a,

Sleepwear/lounge & Robes Silk, Wool, Merino, Cashmere & and Modal 4/4a, 114/114a, 34/34a 41/41a,

62/62a

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SWEATERS


For styles with button or zippers, please, see care library below for additional care options

Basic Sweater knits Cotton, Acrylic, Polyester and blend with these 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 87/87a

Cashmere 5/5a, 105/105a, 113/113a, 34/34a, 52/52a, 68/68a, 87/87a

Wool, Merino, Lamb’s wool, Silk. 5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a,47/47a, 68/68a, 87/87a

Delicate or embellished All fibers 4/4a, 35/35a, 43/43a, 62/62a, 87/87a

83/83a Dry Clean Only—Can only be used when care by another method will damage the goods.

86/86a: if using Professional Dry Clean only—then label must state the specific chemical and processing that can be used.

ACCESSORIES AND SWIM


Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and Shawls (Knitted or woven)

Acrylic, Cotton, Polyester and blends 4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 44/44a

Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and Shawls (knitted or woven)

Wool and wool blends 5/5a, 34/34a, 43/43, 47/47a, 62/62a 87/87a

Fancy Headwear Wool felt and other 81/81a

Woven or Knit Caps and Hats and straw hats All fibers except wool 4/4a, 35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a

Socks & tights basic constructions All fibers 11/11a, 114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a

Socks & Tights-Delicate knitted Stitch Construction

All fibers 114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 41/41a, or 43/43a

Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise Leotards

All fiber -- basic designs 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 41/41a

Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise Leotards

All fiber—with embellishments such as foil print or rhinestones

11/11a, 5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a

Woven or Knit Briefs, Panties, Undershirts and Camisoles

All fibers 3/3a, 35/35a/44/44a, 63/63a

Bra Underwire &/OR Padded All fibers 5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a or 43/43a

Bra Seamed soft Cup All fibers. 4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 41/41a

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General Care Instructions with Codes:

Care Code

English French

Washing / Lavage

1/1a Machine wash in hot water at a normal setting

Laver à la machine à l'eau chaude au cycle normal

2/2a Machine wash in warm water at a normal setting

Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle normal

3/3a Machine wash in warm water at a gentle setting

Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle délicat

4/4a Machine wash in cool water at a gentle setting

Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat

5/5a Hand wash in cool water Laver à la main à l'eau froide

6/6a Do not wash Ne pas laver

7/7a Wash separately Laver séparément

8/8a Wash before wear Laver avant de porter

9/9a Wash colours separately Laver les couleurs séparément

10/10a Wash dark colours separately Laver les couleurs foncées séparément

11/11a Wash inside out Laver à l'envers

12/12a Surface clean with damp cloth or sponge Nettoyer la surface avec un linge ou une éponge humide

13/13a Do not wring Ne pas essorer

14/14a Wash with gentle soap - no detergent Laver avec un savon doux - pas de détergent

15/15a Machine wash in cold water at a normal setting Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle normal

16/16a Wash with buttons fastened Boutonner avant de laver

17/17a Wash with zipper fastened Fermer la glissière avant de laver

18/18a Hand wash separately, in cold water Laver à la main séparément à l’eau froide

19/19a Remove from washer promptly Retirer rapidement de la laveuse

20/20a Wash with like colours Laver avec des couleurs semblables

21/21a Do not use liquid fabric softener Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant liquide

22/22a Close all fasteners before washing Fermer toutes les attaches avant de laver

23/23a Do not store wet Sécher avant de ranger

24/24a Do not allow to sit in washer or dryer Retirer immédiatement de la laveuse ou de la sécheuse

25/25a Machine wash separately in cool water at gentle setting, removing promptly

Laver séparément à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat; retirer rapidement

26/26a Do not use fabric softener Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant

27/27a Remove belt before wash Enlever la ceinture avant de laver

28/28a Remove decoration before washing Enlever la garniture avant de laver

101/101a Remove Fur Trim before washing Enlever la garniture en fourrure avant de laver

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Care Code

English French

Washing Continue / Lavage (suite)

102/102a Remove fake fur trim before washing Enlever la garniture en similifourrure avant de laver

103/103a Remove pouch before washing Enlever la poche avant de laver

104/104a Wash Bright colours separately Laver les couleurs vives séparément

105/105a Do not twist or wring Ne pas tordre ni essorer

106/106a Spot Clean only Nettoyer les taches seulement

107/107a Machine wash hot with like colours at normal setting

Laver à la machine à l’eau chaude avec des couleurs semblables au cycle normal

108/108a Machine wash in warm water with like colours at gentle setting

Laver à la machine à l’eau tiède avec des couleurs semblables au cycle délicat

109/109a Machine wash cold with like colours at gentle setting

Laver à la machine à l’eau froide avec des couleurs semblables au cycle délicat

110/110a Hand wash hot Laver à la main à l'eau chaude

111/111a Hand wash warm Laver à la main à l'eau tiède

112/112a remove promptly retirer rapidement

113/113a with mild detergent avec un détergent doux

114/114a Wash in mesh bag Laver dans un sac en filet

115/115a Remove collar before washing Retirer le col avant de laver

116/116a Close all hooks before washing Attacher toutes les agrafes avant de laver

117/117a To protect zipper pull, wash in a mesh bag Laver dans un filet pour protéger la tirette

Bleaching / Blanchiment

31/31a Use chlorine bleach as directed Utiliser un agent de blanchiment chloré suivant les indications

32/32a Do not use chlorine based bleach Ne pas utiliser d’agent de blanchiment chloré

33/33a Use non-chlorine bleach only Utiliser seulement un agent de blanchiment non chloré

34/34a Do not bleach Ne pas javelliser

35/35a Only non-chlorine bleach when needed Utiliser un agent de blanchiment non chloré au besoin

Drying / Séchage

40/40a Tumble dry at medium to high temperature Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne ou élevée

41/41a Hang to dry Suspendre pour sécher

42/42a Drip dry Sécher par égouttement

43/43a Dry flat Sécher à plat

44/44a Tumble dry at low temperature Sécher par culbutage à basse température

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Care Code English French

Drying continued / Séchage (suite)

45/45a Tumble dry – remove promptly Sécher par culbutage – retirer rapidement 46/46a Block to dry Mettre sur forme pour sécher

47/47a Maintain original size and shape while drying Maintenir la forme et la grandeur d’origine pendant le séchage

48/48a Tumble dry low to medium temperature Sécher par culbutage à température basse ou moyenne

49/49a Hang to dry away from sunlight Suspendre à l’abri du soleil pour sécher

50/50a Line dry while twisted Maintenir tordu et suspendre pour sécher

51/51a Do not tumble dry Ne pas sécher par culbutage

52/52a Reshape and lay flat to dry Remettre en forme et sécher à plat

53/53a with tennis balls avec des balles de tennis

54/54a Tumble dry Sécher par culbutage

55/55a Tumble dry high Sécher par culbutage à température élevée

56/56a Tumble dry medium Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne

Ironing / Repassage

60/60a Iron at high setting Repasser à température élevée

61/61a Iron at medium setting Repasser à température moyenne

62/62a Iron at low setting Repasser à basse température

63/63a Do not iron Ne pas repasser

64/64a Permanent press Sans repassage

65/65a Iron on reverse side Repasser à l’envers

66/66a Dampen garment before ironing Humecter le vêtement avant de le repasser

67/67a Do not iron motif Ne pas repasser le motif

68/68a Iron at low temperature on reverse Repasser à l’envers à basse température

70/70a Do not iron decoration Ne pas repasser la garniture

71/71a Do not iron print Ne pas repasser l’imprimé

72/72a Cool Iron as needed Represser à basse température au besoin

73/73a To maintain crease effect do not iron Ne pas repasser pour préserver l'effet froissé

74/74a Steam iron if necessary Repasser avec un fer à vapeur au besoin

75/75a Cool Iron reverse side Repasser à l’envers à basse température

76/76a Do not iron label Ne pas repasser l’étiquette

Dry Cleaning / Nettoyage à sec

80/80a Dry clean Nettoyer à sec

81/81a Dry clean with caution Nettoyer à sec avec précaution

82/82a Do not dry clean Ne pas nettoyer à sec

83/83a Dry clean only Nettoyer à sec seulement

84/84a Can be dry-cleaned Peut être nettoyé à sec

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Care Code

English French

Dry Cleaning continued / Nettoyage à sec (suite)

85/85a Professionally leather clean only Nettoyeur professionnel pour cuir seulement

86/86a Professional dry clean only Nettoyage à sec professionnel seulement

862/862a Short Cycle Cycle court

863/863a Low Heat Basse température

864/864a No Steam Sans vapeur

87/87a or dry clean ou nettoyer à sec

88/88a Cover toggle sets with foil prior to cleaning Couvrir les bûchettes avec de l’aluminium avant de nettoyer

89/89a Close all fasteners before dry cleaning.

Fermer toutes les attaches avant de nettoyer à sec.

For further information regarding textile labeling for Canada, and English and French translation

of Fibre names, please visit the Textile Labelling Act at the Competition Bureau of Canada at:

http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/internet/index.cfm?itemID=1333&lg=e

For further information regarding textile labeling for US, please visit the Federal Trade Commission

Textile and Wool Act at:

Lord &Taylor http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus21-threading-your-way-through-labeling-

requirements-under-textile-and-wool-acts

http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/internet/index.cfm?itemID=1333&lg=e

http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus21-threading-your-way-through-labeling-requirements-under-textile-and-wool-acts


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Care Labeling symbols for Saks Fifth Avenue only

ISO Symbols

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CHAPTER 5

Stuffed Articles

and Upholstery

Labeling

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Canada and the United States each have different requirements for stuffed articles labeling for apparel. Thus we have separated the requirements below. Apparel shipping to both countries must follow the more stringent requirements.

Stuffed Articles requirements in Canada The Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation is administered at the provincial level in Ontario,

Manitoba, and Québec. It is intended to protect the public from use of unclean filling materials.

Items such as insulated outerwear, quilted shirts, bedding, and any product that contains hidden fill

are covered by the legislation.

Those wishing to manufacture stuffed articles for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must

register with the appropriate government offices and fasten disclosure labels to their products. Note

that registration must occur at the factory level: importers, distributors and agents are not eligible for

registration.

Since government inspection of our stores occurs on a regular basis, it is essential that all products

be in compliance, using the correct label. Products found not to be in compliance will be removed

from sale.

The following section provides information on the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation and

the obligations it places on vendors. This information is important for the vendor to remember

when negotiating costs before orders are placed.

The complete Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation of Ontario is available online at

www.tssa.org

Registration & Fees Registration for the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Act is mandatory for manufacturers whose

products will be sold in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec, but it is limited to the factory level.

Importers, distributors, agents, and retailers are not eligible to register.

Manufacturers located in one of the above provinces must register in that province. Manufacturers

not located in one of these provinces must register in all three.

Since registration applies to the factory of production, the address used for registration must agree

with the country of origin. For example, if the factory is in Indonesia, the trading company in Hong

Kong must not be the vendor of record for the registration.

Registration application forms are available from the provincial government offices Contact

information provided in this chapter and it is the vendor's responsibility to register directly with each

of the provincial offices. Hbc is not equipped to handle the paperwork, and a fee will be charged if it

becomes necessary.

The total fee for registering with all three provinces is about $1200.00 (CAN). Registration fees must

be renewed annually. In order to keep his or her current registration number, the registrant must file

the renewal application prior to the registration's expiry date. If the renewal application is not filed in

time, the registration number will lapse and a new number be assigned, which can cause problems

during an inspection.

http://www.tssa.org/

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Labels All upholstered and stuffed articles offered for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must bear a

label in an approved format. The following information applies to Ontario; the vendor should

contact the appropriate provincial government office for details on labels in Manitoba or Québec.

Labels can be produced by any printer and must adhere to the following guidelines.

Some examples of appropriate labels are mentioned below for reference:

Registration number: Vendors located in one of the three above provinces must put the registration number from that province on the label. Other vendors can use any of the three registration numbers on the label (preferably the Ontario number), or they can use all three. The inspectors have the capability of cross-checking all the numbers when examining products in the store.

Content: The vendor must indicate the fill content in this section. It is essential that the specific content and percentage are given here (e.g., "100 per cent polyethylene foam" rather than "foam fill"). Consult Fill Content Definitions on TSSA website, or contact the appropriate provincial government office for further details. If there is any doubt about the correct declaration for a filling, a sample should be submitted to the provincial office for a ruling.

Size: The label must be one of the approved sizes as per the given examples. Detailed information

on label sizes may be obtained by contacting the appropriate provincial government office.

Label material: The label must be of a permanent material and must be able to withstand cleaning. Paper or stickers are not acceptable.

Label placement: Labels must be securely fastened to the article in a conspicuous location. Packaged goods must have the labels clearly visible in order that they may be read without opening the package or removing the contents.

Newly registered manufacturers should submit a sample copy of their labels to the appropriate provincial government office for approval.

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Joint Federal-Provincial Labels Federal laws require a fiber content statement for all textile components in bed pillows, comforters,

sleeping bags and quilted garments. These statements may be given on the bottom of provincial

labels under the heading "Federal Requirement," or on a separate label.

Inspections All upholstered and stuffed articles are subject to audit inspections by provincial government staff at

any time, from the manufacturing stage to the retail level. Such inspections may include routine

representative sampling.

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Contact Information: Ontario

Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Program

Technical Standards & Safety Authority

14th Floor Centre Tower

3300 Bloor Street West

Toronto, ON M8X 2X4

Registration Service

Toll Free : 1-877-682-8772

Tel: (416) 734-3408

Fax: (416) 231-9601

Email : [email protected]

Peta-Gaye Willis

General Information and Label Approval

Tel: (416) 734-3461

Fax: (416) 231-9162


For questions about registration and labeling requirements in:

Manitoba

Manitoba Consumers' Bureau

302-258 Portage Avenue

Winnipeg, Manitoba R3C 0B6

Ms. Kristine McKay

Tel: (204) 945-6368

Fax: (204) 945-0728


Québec

Gouvernement du Québec

Ministère de l'Industrie, du Commerce

De la Science et de la Technologie

Direction des activités commerciales

Et des opérations

Québec Industrie et Commerce

380, rue Saint-Antoine Ouest, 4e étage,

Montréal, QC H2Y 3X7

Danielle Leger

Tel: (514) 499-2176

Fax: (514) 864-9276


For inquirers relating to Federal textile labeling

requirements:

Industry Canada

Fair Business Practices Branch

17th floor, phase 1, Place du Portage

50 Victoria Street

Hull, QC, K1A 0C9

Tel: 819-997-4282

Toll Free: 1-800-348-5358

Fax: 819-997-0324

www.cb-bc.gc.ca

http://www.cb-bc.gc.ca/

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Stuffed Articles Requirements for USA

All filling material must be new and free of contaminates such as splinters, metal chip. All labeling

must follow the Federal Trade Commissions' Textile and Wool Act and Rules and/or the

International Feather and Down Bureau labeling.

Law Label

Filled clothing such as vests and coats and jackets, for most states at present do not require the

complex Law Tag label that is needed for bedding and upholstered products except for the state of

Utah. However, these garments must have a sewn-in label that complies with the Federal Trade

Commission’s apparel labeling, were the filling is declared. If linings, interlinings, fillings, or

paddings are incorporated into a garment for warmth (including metallic-coated textile linings and

linings or fillings that contain any amount of wool), their fiber content must be disclosed as a

sectional disclosure. For example:

Covering: 100%

Rayon

Filling: 100%

Cotton

Even if the outer fabric and the lining or interlinings are made of the same material, the fiber content should be disclosed separately.

Shell: 100% Polyester

Interlining: 100% Polyester

If the lining, interlining, filling, or padding is the only textile portion of the product, (with the outer part

made of a non-textile material such as rubber, vinyl, fur, or leather), the fiber content of the lining,

interlining, filling, or padding must be disclosed if it is incorporated into the product for warmth.

Down Filled Labeling

Any product labeled as "DOWN" must contain a minimum of 75% down and plumules.

Manufacturers must disclose the minimum percentage of down in a product. Down products

normally contain small amounts of other components. If these other components exceed the

following MAXIMUMS, the percentages of each must be listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not

permitted.

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Feather and Down blended products containing between

5% and 49% down, should be labeled as below example.

Keeping in mind that Feather and Down products

normally contain small amounts of other

components. If these other components exceed the

following MAXIMUMS, the percentage of each must be

listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not permitted.

FILL TYPE MAXIMUM %

Down Fiber 10%

Feather Fiber 10%

Chopped, Damaged & Crushed Feathers

7%

Land fowl Feathers 5%

Residue 2%

For inquirers relating to Federal Textile Labelling requirements visit the Federal Trade Commission

website.

FILL TYPE MAXIMUM %

Down Fiber 10%

Feather Fiber 10%

Chopped, Damaged & Crushed Feathers

2%

Land fowl Feathers 2%

Residue 2%

ALL NEW MATERIAL

consisting of

FEATHERS AND

DOWN

(95%Duck Feathers,

5%Down)

CONTENTS

STERILIZED



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CHAPTER 6

Laboratory

Testing

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Color Approval and Laboratory Testing

This section provides technical details about color approval and testing requirements for HBC,

L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH suppliers for softlines merchandise. Color Approvals prior to testing

For visual color matching by using a light box: HBC, L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth

Avenue OFF 5TH requires that matching must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65,

CWF (Cool white fluorescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no visible shade

difference between all three light sources.

Note: The vendor must use ‘Branded’ dyes and chemicals for a better color match.

The spectrophotometer reading should be done by the dye house that will produce the bulk fabric.

Here is the acceptable value guide the dye house should follow.

Acceptable Value Guide

CMC DE<0.80 Approved

0.80< CMC DE < 1.20 Approved, pending a visual assessment by the Product Development Manager

CMC DE > 1.20 Rejected: do not submit; re-dip and test again

Exceptions

In cases of color dips that “flare” or are “difficult,” such as fluorescent shades, up to three (3)

submissions may be sent for approval.

No spectrophotometer reading is required for “heather” or “mélange” shades, small prints, satins,

and jacquards, pile fabrics like polar fleece, looped terry, or velour. These fabrics cannot be

successfully measured by a spectrophotometer. The visual color matching by using a light box must

be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and

incandescent “A”. There should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources.

Strike-offs, patterns, embroideries, and fabrics

All strike-offs, patterns, and embroideries must be approved .Bulk fabric samples for all fabrics must

also be approved prior to testing.

The swatch size of a submitted strike-off should allow for at least one repeat.

For co-ordinate sets, (e.g., a solid top and printed bottom), the vendor must send solid color dips

and strike-offs at the same time.

Patterns

The patterns for sweaters (e.g., crochet designs, cable designs, etc.) should be large enough to allow

for visual assessment.

For yarn-dyed garments, the vendor must first submit all desk looms or knit downs of every pattern

and colorway for review and final approval.

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Embroideries

Embroideries should be sent on the correct ground color fabric to be assessed properly.

Fabrics

The vendor must send bulk fabric swatches in the correct hand feel, weight, and construction. The

swatches must measure at least 8" x 11". The bulk fabric approval is only final once the testing

meets HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH requirements.

Notions, trims, and accessories

The vendor must submit all notions, trims, and accessories that will be used for production together

for approval on the Notions, Trims, and Accessories Sheet. The form must be filled out completely

with all relevant information.

It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure all trims and accessories used in making of garments must be

compatible to overall garment and meet the HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue

OFF 5TH requirements.

Testing Program for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH

Laboratory testing is a key mile stone at pre-production stage. Intertek Testing Services (ITS) is

nominated agency to conduct 3rd party laboratory testing. Testing is vendor/mill paid.

Vendors are required to make their fabric mills aware of HBC fabric standards and fabric mills are to

ensure that the fabric meets the standards before shipping the bulk fabric to garment maker.

Please refer to Laboratory Test Request Form (TRF) in appendices to be submitted along with required fabric /

garment sample to ITS lab. Please fill the details of fabric and/or garment in the required section of TRF and

submit to ITS lab along with style and trim detail sheet from tech packs.

Fabric and garment samples submitted will be tested to proposed care instructions from Chapter 4 or as per

care information provided in the tech. pack.

For testing results that are passing to the proposed care, the Vendor will use those care instructions for bulk

production of labeling.

For testing that fails the proposed care instructions, there will be a dialogue to determine an alternative

customer & product friendly care. The vendor may be requested to retest the new care instructions.

In cases were the same fabrication is used for multiple styles with different delivery dates, styles with first

deliveries will be submitted for full fabric and garment testing, and styles with subsequent deliveries will be

tested to garment test packages only.

For HBC and L&T styles with multiple fabrics, all fabric samples will be tested for fabric test

parameters. The garment will be tested for testing parameters applicable for garment.

For Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, fabric and garment are tested

together at the pre-production stage.

Vendor to resolve any quality issues before bulk production if there is a failed test report from the

Intertek lab. Vendor is to re-submit the samples to Intertek Lab, to conduct re-testing for failed

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parameters. Vendor will reference the original failed report number on the re-testing Test Request

Form (TRF).

After lab testing on fabric and garment is passed and Pre-production sample is approved as per

requirements, vendor may proceed for bulk garment production. It is imperative that a pass lab test

reports are available before starting of garment production.

Inspection and Shipment process and policies continue as per the current practice.

Sample Submission:

Fabric Stage Bulk fabric must be as per HBC and L&T contracted fiber content, fabric construction and finishes.

For each submission of bulk fabric to be tested, a full width of minimum 3 meter long sample is

required for the darkest colour way. Additional colours are submitted in 1 meter full width. For all

private and captive brands under all banners all colour ways need to be tested.

For knit and woven fabric containing spandex an additional meter of full width in the darkest color

is required.

Where a style is colour blocked the fabric is to be tested to colour blocked testing performance,

with each colour in equal proportion being sewn together and submitted with the bulk fabrics

submission and the TRF must be checked off for colour blocked style.

Special functional and performance finishes i.e. wrinkle resist and water repellency etc., must be

declared on the TRF for lab to apply additional tests as applicable.

Garment Stage Adult’s Styles: 2-3 Garment pieces in fit size and 4 Garments for sweaters testing packages

1-2 Additional garments may be required if Optional testing is to be conducted for special claims.

Children’s Styles: 3 garments per styles without Components in fit size and 5 garments for sweater

without components are required to be submitted with lab.

6-garments for styles with components in fit size and for styles with more than one print design submit

one additional garment for testing on scrapable surfaces. Children sleepwear may require additional sample as

per sizing Tables from the Children’s Sleepwear Flammability Requirement Guidelines in this

manual.

Garment samples must be made in bulk fabric, and all actual production trims and accessories.

Testing procedure for Bulk Fabric and Pre-production garments

The responsibilities outlined below are divided by stake holder and are to be carried out at different

development and production stages. :

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Vendor’s Responsibilities:

Vendor is to provide a correctly completed Test Request Form (TRF) and it must accompany all sample

submissions to the designated laboratory for both fabric piece goods testing and preproduction garment

testing.

Vendor is responsible for the quality and performance of trims.

Pre-production testing is required before actual production begins. Garments must incorporate actual production fabric and trims.

Vendor to ensure that every garment supplied must have a correct care label sewn-in.

Vendors provide the required number of samples (as mentioned above) to the nearest Intertek lab at the earliest possible stage with completed TRF, Tech pack cover sheet and trims sheet. Insufficient sample size and incomplete TRF may delay lab testing.

Lab’s Responsibilities:

• Fast Turnaround Time and conducts tests in accordance with HBC test protocols and regulatory

requirements as applicable

• At the conclusion of testing, ensure the test is rated overall as “Pass or Fail”

• Conduct accurate and reliable tests

• Promptly sends test results to Agents and Vendors and upload the test results onto the ITS

Datalink

• At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label

Instructions in Chapter 4 and ITS should ensure that the care on the TRF matches. Intertek should

advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results.

• Intertek is to retain the tested specimen on behalf of HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks

Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH as per specified retention timelines.

• For Garments, if vendor needs to contact local Intertek office, and requests the sample to be

returned to the vendor at vendor’s expense. Intertek will with notification to QA team and return

the ½ failed samples to Li & Fung/Vendor.

Li & Fung’s Responsibilities:

• Li & Fung must clearly communicate and present appropriate fabric standard to the fabric

suppliers/garment cutters and get their agreement to adhere to the standard before confirming the

order.

• At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label

Instructions (Chapter 4) and the tech pack, and L&F should ensure that they are advised to Intertek

on the TRF. Intertek should advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results.

Testing frequency for repeat orders

For repeat or automatic replenishment garments, bulk fabric and garment will be tested as follows:

If the same colours and fabrication are used within a year, the original lab test will serve as a standing document.

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If the automatic replenishment runs for more than one (1) year, the vendor will provide a new test.

If there is a new finish or colour, new colorfastness tests will be required.

If there is a change in the country of origin or fabric supplier, a new test will be required.

Testing Packages and Prices

Bulk Woven Tops

(prices in USD) Asia Turkey USA Canada EU

Bulk Woven Tops $175.00 $175.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00

Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T

Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH

This test package includes the following:

Fiber Identification*

Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)#

Care label verification (at no additional charge)

Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning

Appearance Rating

Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering

Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning

Colorfastness to Crocking

Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties]

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Light

Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2)

Tensile / Bursting Strength

Tear Strength

Seam Slippage

Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength

Pilling Resistance-30 minutes

Optional Tests for Woven Tops, see additional tests price list

Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy

Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only)

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Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care)

Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01

for Kids and K02 for adults

*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by

microscopic method.

# Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616

Bulk Woven Bottoms


Bulk Woven Bottoms $175.00 $175.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00




Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Leather Thickness Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes

Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list

Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle)

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Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy

Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent

fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02& K01


*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional

Fiber and by microscopic method.


Bulk Fabric Outerwear


Bulk Woven Outerwear $175.00 $175.00 $380.00 $380.00 $380.00




• Fiber Identification *

• Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) #

• Care label verification (at no additional charge)

• Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning

• Appearance Rating

• Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering

• Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning

• Colorfastness to Crocking

• Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties]

• Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach

• Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

• Colorfastness to Light

• Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2)

• Tensile / Bursting Strength

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• Tear Strength

• Seam Slippage

• Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength

• Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


*Fiber Identification of film and/or coating where applicable Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy

Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent

fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Water Repellent, Spray test (all coated) Water Resistance, Rain test (when claimed) Water Proof (claimed only) fabric in fabric testing, seams in garment testing For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 K01


PVC or PVC/PU Coated or Laminated Lightweight Jackets


Adult Garment without lining $107.00 $107.00 $202.00 $202.00 $202.00

Adult Garment with lining $137.00 $137.00 $232.00 $232.00 $232.00

Children’s Garment without lining and without components

$107.00 $107.00 $202.00 $202.00 $202.00

Children’s Garments without lining and with components

$137.00 $137.00 $232.00 $232.00 $232.00

Children’s Garments with lining and with components

$255.00 $255.00 $255.00 $255.00 $255.00

Total Lead Content of PVC or Applied Surface Coatings (for Children’s Garments )

$24.00 $24.00 $43.00 $43.00 $43.00




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Bulk Woven Intimate Apparel


Intimate Apparel $165.00 $165.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00




Fiber Identification*

Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) #

Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge)

Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning

Appearance Rating

Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering

Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning

Colorfastness to Crocking

Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties]

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

Colorfastness to Light

Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2)

Tensile / Bursting Strength

Tear Strength

Seam Slippage

Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01





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Bulk Woven Suiting


Bulk Woven Suiting $165.00 $165.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00



This test includes the following:

Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy

Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for

Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional



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Woven Fabrics-Additional Color Testing


Additional Color Testing $52.00 $52.00 $145.00 $145.00 $145.00

Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list

See Additional Tests price list Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)* Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada (the Bay styles combined

with L&T/SAKS) refer addendum K01 for Kids and K02 for adults

Bulk Knit Tops


Bulk Knit Tops $175.00 $175.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00




Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater)

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Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01

for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional



Bulk Knit Bottoms


Bulk Knit Bottoms $175.00 $175.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00


Bulk garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH


Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m2., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only)

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Attachment strength (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01





Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel


Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel $165.00 $165.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00




Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification (No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m2, oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes

Optional test for Intimate Apparel, see additional tests price list

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only)

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Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01





Knit Fabrics- Additional Colorway


Additional Colorway $52.00 $52.00 $145.00 $145.00 $145.00

The additional color way test package includes the following:

Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light

Optional Additional Color Test, see additional tests price list

Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)* Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01


* Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616



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The following test packages are for Pre-Production stage Garments with additional

fabric yardage.

Product Testing

Leather and Suede


Leather & Suede $230.00 $230.00 $506.00 $506.00 $506.00


Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Profession Leather Cleaning Leather Thickness Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength , Seam Strength of Binding pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Adhesion of Finish Blocking of Finish

Optional Testing for Leather/Suede, see additional tests price list

Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Attachment strength (Children’s only) Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02

for adults



Fiber and by microscopic method

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Sweaters


Sweaters $165.00 $165.00 $365.00 $365.00 $365.00

This testing package includes the following:

Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification ( Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength, Seam Strength of Binding Pilling Resistance-30 minutes


Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen) Pile Retention (velvet, velveteen only) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Attachment strength (Children’s only) Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02

for adults

Product Testing - Cashmere (Adult and Children’s Items)

(prices in USD) Asia

Fabric Test Per Lot AATCC 20 / 20a $119.00

Fabric Test By Color AATCC 8, 132, 15, and ASTM D3512 $64.00

Garment Test By Style AATCC 158 / 179, 158 and ASTM D3786 $61.50

Garment Test Per Lot 16 CFR 1610 / 1615 and 1616 $30.50

Package Price for whole protocol - Asia $220.00

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*Sampling Size:

For fabric test, 3 yards of fabric in full width direction is needed. 1 yard of fabric in full width is

required for each additional color way. For Garment, 3 pieces of finished garments are needed.



*Pricing available upon request, and location capability.

For additional Testing package for Canada (refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults

Garment Test Package 1(Garment stage Testing for HBC and L&T Vendors)

Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims


Adults Woven & Knits $75.00 $75.00 $237.00 $237.00 $237.00


Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Garment Skew Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength

Optional Test

Component operability For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-01 and K02 for adults



The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements:

Label Review Labeling – Packaging Fiber Content Label CA No. or Dealer Identity Country of Origin The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec) Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles Care Label Stuffed Articles (if applicable)

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FLAMMABILITY

Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear)


Adults Woven & Knits additional tests for Canada (K02) Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric.

$55 $55 $105 $105 $105

Special price for individual test Flammability Test

$38 $38 $75 $75 $75

Garment Test Package 2

Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims


Children’s Garments either Knit or Woven $85.00 $85.00 $250.00 $250.00 $250.00

Safety Tests $105.00 $105.00 $237.00 $237.00 $237.00

The Children’s Garments Test package includes the following:

Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Garment Skew Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Flammability (sleepwear only)* Children’s Garment will require safety review where designs have components

The Children’s Safety Test package includes the following:

Drawstrings Sharp Points / Sharp Edges (Children’s only) Small Parts (Buttons and attachments) Formaldehyde Content Lead/ Heavy Metal Content ☼

Optional test

Additional Canadian testing requirements for Kids wear styles see J-02, J-03 & K01 The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements:

Label Review Labeling – Packaging Fiber Content Label CA No. or Dealer Identity Country of Origin The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec) Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles Care Label Stuffed Articles (if applicable)

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Garment Size SAFETY

Drawstrings on Children’s Upper Outerwear FLAMMABILITY

Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear) Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting Sleepwear) Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear)

ANALYTICAL

☼Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs)

☼Total Lead in baby bibs or similar products that are brought into contact with the user's mouth

in the course of normal use


Woven & Knits additional testing for Canada (K01) Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric.

$70

$70

$105

$105

$105

Special price for individual test Drawstrings

$33 $33 $64 $64 $64

Flammability- General Wearing Apparel $38 $38 $75 $75 $75

Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting) $38 $38 $94 $94 $94

Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash

$57 $57 $109 $109 $109

Total Lead $24 $24 $56 $56 $56

Tight Fitting Sleepwear $38.00 $38.00 $206.00 $206.00 $206.00

Please Note: Flame retardant finishes are not permitted on any Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord &

Taylor or SAKS merchandise without prior approval from Global Sourcing.

Children’s Sleepwear Testing: Additional samples and tech pack should be submitted to Intertek

for children’s sleepwear flammability testing and garment review as follows:

a) Tight Fitting Sleepwear: 1 prototype garment in each size (infants up to 7 kg, polo pajamas,

sleepers, etc) + Spec. Pack

b) Loose Fitting Sleepwear: 2 prototype garments from bulk fabric and production quality seams in

size 14X or largest size in the range for size ranges 0 to 6 (includes night gowns, nightshirts, bath

robes, pajamas, baby doll pajamas in sizes up to and including 14X) + spec. pack.

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Accessories-Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks


Accessories - Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks $145.00 $145.00 $305.00 $305.00 $305.00


Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color)


• Formaldehyde Content (Children’s only) • Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) • Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) • Resistance to Corrosion • Attachment strength (Children’s only) • Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) • Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. per dozen) • Sock Fit Test [Sock only] • Abrasion Resistance [Socks only] • For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum K01 & J-02 for Kids and K02

for adults


*Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by

microscopic method

Required Sample Sizes:

Scarves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.

Mittens: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.

Gloves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.

Socks: 3 pairs in darkest color way.

Tights/Pantyhose: 3 pairs in darkest color way.

Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of

fabric in darkest color way.

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Accessories-Hats and Caps


Accessories- Hats & Caps $180.00 $180.00 $375.00 $375.00 $375.00


Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Tensile / Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Attachment strength (Children’s only)


Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02

for adults

* Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616


Fiber and by microscopic method

Required Sample Sizes:

Hats: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way.

Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of fabric in

darkest color way.

Straw hat: no laundering performed

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Accessories-Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle bags


Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #01) $195.00


Overall Dimensions Length x Width x Height Fabric weight Total weight Number of Compartments (Main, External and Interior Pockets and other features) Labeling review Flammability (CCPSA Textile Flammability Regulation) Lead in Coating (children’s product) Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Light Material Defect Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl) Strength Properties (Loading Capacity, Handle and Strap Strength) Strength and Operability for Closures (all snaps, zippers and buttons)

Additional Tests at additional charges,

• Colorfastness to Water (Contrast Colourblocked products) Total Lead in PVC Vinyl (Children Only) Heavy Metal (Canada) (Children items, for coating and painting) Small Parts Sharp Edges & Points

Additional Tests for USA requirements at additional charges

Flammability 16 CFR 1500.44 Tracking label for children’s products Lead in accessible components CA Prop 65 Formaldehyde Emissions

Required sample size: 5 full samples for basic package test

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Accessories-Belts


BELTS (HL&A # 03) $130.00

Tests included in package • Attachement Strength (Buckle) • Stitch Reinforcement Strength • Hole Pullout Strength • Fabric Strength • Colorfastness to Crocking • Colorfastness to Perspiration • Resistance to Corrosion (Metal Components) • Labeling review

Additional tests if applicable with additional testing cost • Heavy Metal Content Testing in Surface Coating Material (For Children products only—CCPSA) • Flammability of textile products

US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product)

• Small Parts (children’s product) • CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California) • Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating (children’s product) • Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) • Toxics in Packaging • Flammability 16 CFR 1610 • Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR1611 • Tracking label for children’s products.

Required Sample size: 4 Belts per style In a set of same fabrication only one item will be tested with the full test package, in the darkest colorway. Additional colorway will be tested under additional test package

Accessories -Wallet and Small leather goods


Wallet and Small Leather goods (HL&A#5) $240.00

Tests included in package

• Colourfastness to Crocking (for shell and lining) • Colourfastness to Perspiration for shell • Colourfastness to Light for Shell (for light color) • Resistance to Corrosion for Metal Components (if applicable) • Durability of Hooks and Loops Fastener (if applicable) • Flexing Resistance for Shell • Abrasion Resistance for Shell • Tensile Strength for Shell • Seam Strength (for functional) • Attachment Strength • Labeling Review

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US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs

• Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating • Toxic Elements in Packaging Components • CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) • Formaldehyde Emissions (California, USA, Document Review)

Additional test if applicable and requested with additional testing cost

• Children’s Product review. Includes; Small Parts, Sharp Points, Sharp Edges • Lead in Coating (children’s product) • Colourfastness to Perspiration

Sample size:

• Finished product: 4 pieces, plus a swatch of Shell fabric or material- 4×A4, and a swatch of Lining fabric or material: 1×A4

• For coatings 0.5 g of coating colour

Accessories- Umbrella

prices in USD) Asia Turkey USA Canada EU

Umbrella (HL & A # 06) $245.00 $00.00 $00.00 $00.00 $00.00

Testing conducted as part of testing package • Fibre Content

• Textile Flammability

• Sharp Points / Edges

• Workmanship

• Defects

• Attachment Strength (Handle)

• Operability

• Spring Force At Handle

• Attachment Strength (Wire Tip)

• Seam Strength

• Seam Slippage

• Colorfastness to Crocking

• Water Repellency

• Water Resistance

• Corrosion Resistance (metal component)

Additional US regulatory test with additional testing cost

• Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product) • Small Parts (children’s product) • Lead in Coating (children’s product) • Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) • Flammability of Solids (children’s product) • CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) • Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review)

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Required Sample size: 3 samples plus 1 yard x full width of fabric for basic package test. 0.5 g per packaging material or valid document 0.5 g of coating Accessories-Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic bags and Makeup cases


Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic Bags and Make-up cases (HL & A # 07) $216.00

Testing conducted as part of testing package

• Overall Length (cm.)x width(cm)x Height(cm) • Number of Compartmens (Main, Interior, External, & other features) • Flammability (SOR/2011-22) • Material Defect • Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components) • Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl) • Handle / Strap Strength • Fabric/Material Tensile strength • Seam strength • Tear strength • Attachment Strength • Snapping / Unsnapping Force • Button Attachment Strength • Zipper Performance testing, Operability, Crosswise strength, Puller attachment strength. • Colorfastness to Light • Colorfastness to Crocking • Labeling review

Additional tests if applicable with additional costs

US regulatory test with additional testing cost

• Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs)

• Flammability • Sharp Points / Sharp Edges • Small Parts • Colourfastness to Perspiration

• CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California)

• Lead in Coating

• Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) • Toxics in Packaging • Flammability of Solids (children’s product) • Sharp Points /Small parts / Edges (children’s product)

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Accessories -Jewelry


Jewelry (jewelry # 04) $110.00

Testing conducted /as part of testing package

• Claim Verifications • Use Labeling • Instructions • Workmanship • Defects • Sharp Points / Edges • Dimensions (L x W x H) • Weight • Functionality • Tensile Strength • Clasp Tensile Strength • Impact Resistance • Labeling review

Additional test if applicable with additional testing cost

• Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Label • Stretch & Recovery (Elastic items only) • Flammability of Textile Fibre • Corrosion Resistance (Metal components) • Colorfastness to Crocking (textile & leather) • Colorfastness to Perspiration (textile & leather) • Nickel Release (products with hypo allergenic claims) • Band Tensile Strength (silicone rubber type products)

US regulatory test with additional testing cost

• Jewelry Label Claims (If applicable) • Leather Good Labeling (if applicable) • Lead Content in Jewelry (Mandatory in state California) • CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) • Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review)

Sample size: 4 samples for basic package test. Sample to be submitted with final packaging and instruction

manual.

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Additional Tests and Individual Test Price List

The below list includes test for specialty performance claims and general performance.

(prices in USD)

USA, Canada, EU

Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the

Dominican Republic

J03 (Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric

$210 $95

Drawstring/Ties review

$64 $33

Flammability of Vinyl Film $75 $65

CA Prop 65: Applicable Section from Intertek Protocol for CA Prop. 65

Cost: On quote Cost: On quote

Additional Colorway Colorfastness Testing With Original Submit

$50.00 $35.00

Additional Colourway Colourfastness Testing as a Separate Submit

$71.00 $57.0

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swim) $45.00 $20.00

Colorfastness to Sea Water (swim) $45.00 $14.00

Colorfastness to Perspiration $45.00 $13.00

Colorfastness to light $50.00 $20.00

Color Block Polyester and Blends.

a) dye transfer in storage

$45.00

$17.00

Color Block Styles

a) colorfastness to water (contrast

$32.00

$11.00

b) colorfastness to washing $45.00 $17.00

Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes (bras): whites and pastels only

$60.00 $40.00

Fiber Content – microscopic such as wool/cashmere $233.00 ($86.00 for each additional)

$71.00 Single Fiber

$143.00 (2 wool fibers)

$100.00 (2 natural cellulosic blends)

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(prices in USD)

USA, Canada, EU

Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the Dominican Republic

Chemical Identification 3rd and subsequent fibers/fiber

$55.00 $22.00

Flammability (USA) non-exempt fabric $75.00 $30.00

Flammability Canada all apparel wearing textiles $75.00 $38.00

Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting) $94.00 $38.00

Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash

$109.00 $57.00

Fabric weight (g/m2, oz/yd2 or Total weight of lb/doz)

$35.00 $11.00

Pilling (random tumble) $59.00 $15.00

Seams Slippage $47.00 $36.00

Abrasion Resistance Martindales (ASTM D4966-98) $71.00 $57.00

Pile Retention Taber (ASTM D4685) $60.00 $19.00

Accelerator (AATCC 93) $59.00 $12.00

Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107 (Wovens) / ASTM D2594 (Knits) /STM D4964 (Knit Swim & Active Wear, Intimates & Apparel)

$75.00 $29.00

Durable Press Appearance (AATCC 143) and Surface Appearance (AATCC 124) 3 Washes 5 Washes

$43.00

(fabric/garment) $66.00

(fabric/garment)

$19.00 (fabric)

$29.00 (garment) $46.00 (fabric)

$54.00 (garment)

Appearance after washing for Two piece set ( in same color / fabric with no appliqué, embroidery, lining etc) Appearance after laundering on 2nd piece

$15.00

$11.00

Durability of Flocking a) fabric b) garment

$ 75.00 $ 90.00

$ 63.00 $ 75.00

Soil Release: Oily Stain (AATCC 130) (original and after 5 washes)

$ 65.00 $ 44.00

Oil Repellency (AATCC 118)Original & after 5X Wash $ 112.00 $ 86.00

Stain Resistant/Repellent (AATCC 118 or 193) Original and after 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care)

$ 290.00 $ 100.00

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(prices in USD)

USA, Canada, EU


Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original and after 5 washes)

$ 115.00 $ 59.00

Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original and after 3 washes)

$ 50.00 $ 12.00

Resistance to Corrosion $ 100.00 $ 40.00

Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) $ 225.00 $ 130.00

Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) $ 150.00 $ 53.00

Formaldehyde a) Spot Test b) AATCC 112 c) JIS L 1041

$ 38.00

$ 119.00 $ 115.00

$ 13.00 $ 41.00 $ 41.00

Children’s Mechanical Safety Review $ 30.00 $ 24.00

Component Attachment Test for Children’s Garments (6 garments required) HBC004

$ 100.00 $ 72.00

Attachment strength (Children’s only) 16 CFR 1500.51-53 (USA) /6 readings

$ 50.00 $ 20.00

Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) $ 75.00 $ 30.00

Total Lead Content a) Applied Surface Coatings (Canada) b) Applied Surfaces Coatings (USA)

c) PVC Materials

$43.00 $43.00 $45.00

$43.00 $43.00 $24.00

Phthalates (DEHP & DINP) in PVC Materials $300.00 $147.00

Decoration Attachment to Laundering: 5 Launderings of Children’s Garments with Rhinestones (6 garments required)

$75.00

$50.00

5 Launderings of Adult Bulk Garments with Rhinestones (3 garments required) (Novelty)

$60.00 $40.00

Attachment Strength – Novelty Trim & Decoration on Bras

$55.00 $12.00

Feather and Down Analysis a) Content Analysis b) Fill Power c) Turbidity d) Oxygen Number e) Fat & Oil f) Odor g) Downproofness

$115.00 $50.00 $30.00 $30.00 $75.00 $30.00 $75.00

$108.00 $28.00 $38.00 $28.00 $58.00 $48.00 $48.00

Total Net Fill Weight (Polyester or Down Fill) $50.00 $28.00

Antimicrobial

$150.00 $103.00

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(prices in USD)

USA, Canada, EU


Moisture Management a) absorbency b) Wicking c) Moisture Vapor Transmission

$50.00 $60.00 $85.00

$18.00 $24.00 $47.00

Windproof $70.00 $53.00

Anti-static $75.00 $72.00

Water Resistant (AATCC 35) $125.00 $45.00

Waterproof (AATCC 127) $65.00 $29.00

Sock Fit Test [Sock only] (L&T/SAKS) $120.00 $45.00

Abrasion Resistance Socks (ASTM 3886) $150.00 $57.00

Unbreakable Button Claim a) Button centre strength Initial 5 buttons of same type. Each additional set of 5 b) Button Impact Strength Initial 10 buttons of same type. Each additional set of 5

$55.00 $30.00

$30.00 $55.00

$26.00

$28.00 $19.00

$13.00 $28.00

$13.00

UV (includes 20 washes & 100 hours of light) $950.00 $400.00

Resistance to Snagging (swim/exercise only) a) face b) face & back

$45.00 $60.00

$33.00 $41.00

Bonding Strength (includes 5 launderings) $125.00 $63.00

White Fabrics a) phenolic yellowing b) pH

$50.00 $35.00

$28.00 $18.00

Fade Resistance:(Dimensional Change is measured after 3 washes & Shade Change/Staining are evaluated after 3 & 10 washes.) When required, this test is performed in conjunction with Dimensional Change

$200.00 $140.00

Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge)

$45.00

$18.00

Retest Local Price 25% Discount from Local Price

Minimum Report Charge $50.00 $30.00

Rush Service (3 working days) 50% surcharge 40% surcharge

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CHAPTER 7

Garment

Inspection

Criteria

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In order to schedule an inspection, the vendor must submit an inspection Request Form to the

HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH nominated inspection agency

about 7 to 8 days prior to inspection date. Inspection form must be completed in all respect and

submitted along with a copy of the Purchase Order (PO). The inspection process policy is as

follows:

1. Only nominated agency or agent will conduct third party pre-shipment inspection for softlines commodities.

2. Vendors are responsible for paying fees associated with the inspections. 3. Inspector will check records for vendors approved social compliance status and passed lab

test reports prior to inspection 4. Once the inspection takes place, the inspection agency will produce an Inspection Report

and grade the shipment as either 'pass' or 'fail.' If the shipment passes, the inspection agent will issue a Certificate of Inspection.

5. If the grade is 'fail,' the shipment will be rejected. Rejection does not necessarily mean cancellation: a vendor/factory may request a subsequent inspection after taking remedial action to correct the problems identified.

6. For inspections using nominated third party agency, refer to chapter 10 –Contact List of Intertek Inspection services.

Inspection Standards

The inspection standard used by HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH is

International Sampling and Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993. It is the most

widely used industry sampling plan and includes sampling sizes and the criteria for accepting or

rejecting the shipment

Lot Size Sample Size Maximum Number Defective Units Allowed

2.5

151-280 32 2

281-500 50 3

501-1,200 80 5

1,201-3,200 125 7

3,201-10,000 200 10

10,001-35,000 315 14

35,001-150,00 500 21

Acceptable quality level:

Acceptable quality level (AQL) defines the number of defective units that result in an inspection

either passing or failing. The AQL adopted by HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth

Avenue OFF 5TH is 2.5 for major and minor defects.

No distinction will be made between products with one or many defects: each defective product is

only counted once. However, zero critical defects will be accepted (Refer to defect classifications on

next page.)

Sampling Plan: Single Sampling

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The shipment is accepted or rejected on the basis of one sampling and no additional sampling will

be allowed. No further inspections will be conducted unless corrective actions have been taken as

instructed.

Sample size: Normal Inspection Level II

Sample size is the number of products in the sampling specified by the sampling plan. Normal

Inspection Level II, under ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993, is the sampling plan.

Defect classifications

A defect is defined as any flaw (major or minor) that is likely to result in customer dissatisfaction,

reduce the usability of the item for its intended purposes, make the item less saleable, or is a

departure from established standards or specifications of the purchase order.

A critical defect is one which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using

the product, or a defect that violates legal regulations and the policy is “Zero tolerance” for critical

defects.

Inspection criteria:

The following is the list of defects to which garment inspections will be conducted. These standard

terms should be used in all communications. A product found with any of these defects will be

classified as “defective.”

Defects in workmanship are classified as “major or minor”.

Major Defect – renders the garment unacceptable, affecting the saleability, durability or

appearance to the point where a customer return is justified.

Minor Defect – does not render the garment unacceptable to the point of justifying a

customer return. A minor defect does, however, indicate substandard workmanship and highlights

area in need of improvement.

Product conformity (check against approved Sample and Specification)

1. Overall appearance

2. Size/Capacity/weight

3. Does not satisfactorily complete testing

4. Garment Shape

Fabric defects

1. Any holes, broken yarn, drop stitches, broken ends, runs, mis-weaves, mis-draws or mispicks

2. Slubs, knots, snags or pulled yarn

3. Noticeable/significant oil spots, soil or other stains

4. Mis-prints, broken pattern, poor print registration, colour migration, colour out, uneven

printing or smear

5. Noticeable dye spots or streaks

6. Shading or dye lot deviation within garment

7. Bowed or biased fabric exceeding requirement

8. Conspicuous pilling, corrugation or roll-up creases

9. Fabric weight more than five (5) per cent below contracted weight

10. Visible float length on Jacquards

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11. Colored fly; mixed fillings or foreign yarns weaved or knitted into fabric

12. Visible creases or lines resulted from needle lines, permanent press, compactor creases, barre

or light/heavy ends

Cleanness defects

1. Spots or stains, or those that when removed leave a “ring” or other surface marks

2. Hanging threads or loose thread clusters that are not removed from both the inside and the

right side of the garment

3. Mildew or odor within packages

4. Insects or foreign bodies found in packages

5. Failure to air garment adequately prior to packing

Laundry/treatment defects

1. Wash, treatment or finishes that do not conform to specification

2. Hand feel either harsh or flimsy, differing from standard

3. Bleached spots, streak marks or uneven treatment

4. Pilling or uneven sand or stone blasting

5. Strong chemical or bleach odor from poor rinses

6. Colour or shade variation resulting from laundry batches

7. Bruises, fraying or raw edges resulting from heavy sand or stone washes

Pressing defects

1. Burn or scorch marks

2. Shine marks or glazes on right side of garment

3. Press marks resulting from the use of clamps or other holding devices

4. Un-pressed and poor pressing objectively affecting seam and hanger appeal

5. Front/back creases distinctly uneven in length or improperly placed, deviating from

specification

Stitching defects

1. Stitch type or construction technique other than specified

2. Stitches per inch differing from specification

3. Insecure ends of stitching, poor back or latch tacked

4. Untidy or poor mending stitch, joins or repairs

5. Skipped stitches or broken or insecure stitch that may ravel

6. Floating stitch resulting from poor tension

7. Run-offs in top-stitching

8. Distortion and excessive cluster of thread locked in stitches

9. Raw edges showing when they should be covered

10. Poor thread match

11. Incorrect thread size or thread type

12. Needle cuts resulting from blunt needles or incorrect needle type/size

13. Needle chew or dog feed abrasion frays

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Seam defects

1. Incorrect seam construction

2. Seam finishes that are not back-tacked or are insecurely tacked

3. Tight thread tension causing thread to break under stress

4. Loose thread tension causing seams to grin

5. Seams those are conspicuously twisted, roped or pleated

6. Excessive puckering

7. Measurements out of tolerance due to stitch margin variation or excessive allowance into

seam

8. Stretched seam caused by poor handling

9. Eased seam where uneven lengths are forced into seaming

10. Open seam

11. Raw edges caught outside seam

12. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching

Collar/lapel/cuff setting defects

1. Excessive fullness or twisting between top and under collar

2. Distinctively ill-shaped or non-conformity to specification

3. Uneven or unbalanced right to left collar

4. Uneven length between collar points

5. Poor top-stitching or uneven, crooked, or run-off edge or top stitch

6. Unbalanced or poorly set collar

7. Loose thread, or lint trapped between top and under collar

8. Incompatible interlining

9. Poor fusing, budding or strike through adhesive

10. Misplaced buttons or buttonholes

11. Twisting, or ropy cord, pipe or bind

Front/back bodice defects

1. Uneven front opening/placket length

2. Poor front opening closure resulting from thread tension or pulling from facing

3. Fullness between opening and facing

4. Facing hanging from inside of garment

5. Misplaced buttons or buttonholes, or poor alignment of button and buttonholes

6. Misplaced pockets

7. Uneven, or high/low pocket placements

8. Uneven dart length

9. Misplaced dart

10. Poor tapering of dart

11. “Dimpled” dart or insecure or poor end off at dart

12. Uneven waistband height

13. Uneven distribution of gathering or shirring

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Hem defects

1. Uneven hem

2. Ropy or twisted hem

3. Length of lining in excess of shell or otherwise

4. Open hem - raw edges or skipped/broken stitch

5. Tight thread tension that causes thread breakage when stretched

6. Puckered, ‘heavy bite’ or grim stitches on right side of garment

Sleeve setting and armhole defects

1. Pleating or poor setting at the crown of sleeve

2. Twisted arm or poor sleeve setting

3. Visible stay stitch along seam of armhole setting

4. Excessive puckering at under-arm and seams

5. Under-arm misaligned with side seam

6. Twisting of lining inside of sleeve

7. Uneven, twisted or poorly stitched hem or sleeve opening

8. Poor setting, twisting, fullness or pulling at facing of sleeve opening

Interlinings

1. Strike through – adhesive melts through to face fabric

2. Rippling – corrugation of fabric or fusing

3. Bubbling – areas of unfused interlining/fabric

4. Delaminating – fusing peel away from fabric

5. Incorrect colour

Buttonhole defects

1. Incorrect buttonhole size for button

2. Ragged or raw edges caused by blunt blades at buttonhole

3. Misplaced, uneven or poorly spaced buttonholes

4. Poor match or incorrect thread colour

5. Incorrect thread size

6. Skip stitch or poor locking of buttonhole stitches

7. Untrimmed thread ends

8. Poor stitch density

9. Distorted buttonhole or without interlining or strengthener

10. Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning

11. Uncut Buttonhole/keyhole

12. Button/Stud place upside down

Zipper defects

1. Any malfunctioning or sub-standard quality, deviating from specification (e.g. wrong size,

coils, elements, or locks and anti-locks, weak stops or retainers or wrong finishes)

2. Poor colour match to body or tape, or differing from approved standard

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3. Poor setting where part of the component may be caught in slider or stretched, wavy setting

or poor closure that may obstructs proper functioning and operability

4. Oxidization or discolored elements

5. Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching

Embellishment

1. Different to Approved Artwork or Sample

2. Crooked or misaligned to Sample over 1cm

3. Shape distortion

4. Missing or Omitted from garment against Spec

Component and trim defects

1. Unapproved components or trim added or substituted (bindings, inter-linings, braids, etc.)

2. Missing component or trim from specification (bartacks, zippers, snap fasteners, eyelets,

rivets, hook and eyes, Velcro tapes, belt and belt-loops, darts, pockets, etc.)

3. Buttons, components, or trims that are damaged, cracked, chipped, discolored,

malfunctioning or do not conform to specification

4. Components or trims insecurely fastened or crooked

5. Misplaced or poor setting of trims and components

6. Exposed drill holes, chalked marks or any other form of marking

7. Poor colour match of trims and components, shade deviation exceeding shade bar or

deviating from specification

8. Poorly shaped darts or pockets that are not uniform or deviate from specification

9. Incorrect size or dimension of components or trims

Packaging defects

1. Incorrect poly bag material

2. Wrong poly bag size

3. Missing or incorrect poly bag prints or suffocation warming

4. Missing or incorrect number of tapes or seals

5. Missing or incorrect hang tags

6. Missing or incorrect price ticket

7. Missing or incorrect SKU number

8. Missing or incorrect size

9. Incorrect assortment, pre-packs or master pack

10. Incorrect hanger

11. Incorrect, poor or untidy folding method

12. Incorrect carton marks

13. Incorrect carton dimension or weight (under or exceeding specification)

14. Poor or weak packaging or carton material

15. Incorrect or poor carton seal

16. Missing Plastic Bag Warning

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All plastic bags with an opening in excess of 18cm (7”) in diameter must have the following warning

in English and French:

WARNING: KEEP THIS BAG AWAY FROM BABIES AND CHILDREN. DO NOT USE

IN CRIBS, BEDS, CARRIAGES OR PLAYPENS. THE THIN FILM MAY CLING TO

NOSE AND MOUTH AND PREVENT BREATHING. THIS IS NOT A TOY

ATTENTION : GARDER CE SAC HORS DE LA PORTÉE DES BÉBÉS ET DES

ENFANTS. NE PAS LE PLACER DANS UN BERCEAU, UN LIT D’ENFANT, UNE

POUSSETTE OU UN PARC. LA MINCE PELLICULE PEUT ADHÉRER AU NEZ ET

À LA BOUCHE DE FAÇON À EMPÊCHER LA RESPIRATION. CET ARTICLE N’EST

PAS UN JOUET.

Incorrect label information

1. Missing or incorrect CA # (The Bay: 00234)

RN# (123455) for Lord & Taylor and #92087 for SAKS.

2. Missing or incorrect country of origin

3. Missing stuffed article act label (new material only) for fiber-filled garments. For Lord &

Taylor missing Law Label or Down & feather Law Tag Label.

4. Label not in English and French

5. English and French wording in the same font size

6. Incorrect care/wash instruction

7. Misspelled care/wash instruction

8. Missing label or label not legible

9. Missing care label, or fiber content does not add up to 100 per cent

Pre-Production Inspection

The vendor should ensure that all materials and components are inspected before production starts to

verify that their function and appearance meet the requirements. Performing a pre-production inspection

will help avoid problems during production.

Steps to be completed before Production

Before production can begin, the vendor must ensure that the following steps have all been completed:

All spec packages with standardized style numbers have been received.

The fit sample and spec details have been approved by the Technologist, Global Sourcing.

Lab dips have been approved.

Strike-offs and embroidery have been approved.

Bulk fabrics have been approved.

Notions, trims, and accessories have been approved.

Bulk fabric lab tests have been approved by designated testing agency.

Any photo/ad samples requested have been sent.

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The pre-production sample has been approved by the Technologist.

Labels, hang tags, and hangers are ready to be ordered.

During-process Inspection

The factory should have a during-process (DUPRO) inspection system in place that will identify and correct deficiencies prior to the completion of manufacturing.

The DUPRO inspection is to be conducted during the early stages of production when the final product is first coming off the production line. Its purpose is both to ensure conformance to Purchase Order requirements and to confirm that any deficiencies noted in the pre-production inspection have been corrected. All defects or deviations from the contracted terms should then be corrected.

HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH recommend that facilities adopt an acceptable quality level (AQL) of 2.5 for DUPRO inspections. AQL defines the number of defective units that result in an inspection either passing or failing, and a level of 2.5 would correspond to the following standard:

The vendor should not make any distinction between major and minor defects, but no critical defects (defects which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using the product as well as defects that violate legal regulations) are acceptable. There is a zero tolerance policy toward critical defects

Pre-shipment Inspection

Pre-shipment inspection (PSI) is employed to ensure that products are not shipped unless all quality

requirements have been met. PSI usually takes place at the time of packing (when at least 100 per cent of

the shipment is produced and 80 per cent is packed) in accordance with International Sampling and

Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993 (formerly known as MIL-STD-105E).

The inspected units, selected at random, will be closely examined by the nominated inspection agency that

will inspect against specifications and control samples, in respect to the following criteria:

Aesthetic Appearance

Colours/Printing

Workmanship

Labeling

Functional Aspects

Safety Aspects

Specifications

Inspection by nominated agency and inspection fee For non Li and Fung, HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH direct

import purchase orders, the third party nominated agency (ITS) will conduct pre-shipment

inspection, vendor will pay the inspection related fees. The nominated third party inspection

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agencies will submit a quote before an inspection. All quotes are based on preferential rates offered

to vendors. Inspection fees range from $145 to $220 plus incidentals where applicable. ITS local

inspection office can provide a more detailed quote. Contact information can be found at the end

of this chapter.

China Hong Kong – Inspection agency – Intertek Services (ITS)

Zone 1 - US$145 (including travelling) per man day

(closer to ITS offices – which covers about 3 hours

road transportation.

Zone 2 – US$220 (including travelling) per man day

(far off locations- more than 3 hours road journey trip

from ITS nearest office) only airfare will be charged

separately if applicable.

Asia - (Excluding China and Hong Kong) – Inspection agency – Intertek Services ( ITS)

-US$ 200 per man-day inspection plus travelling.

-No travelling cost if factory is within range of 30 km

of ITS local office area.

-Additional actual travelling cost, if more that 30 km

from nearest ITS office and out of pocket expenses for

inspectors.

North America and Europe Inspection agency – Intertek Services (ITS)

US$ 550 per man-day inspection plus travelling

(As per instructions to ITS has a target to complete the inspection in one man-day however if an inspection needs more than one man-day

depending upon size of the shipment quantities and factory location, ITS will get a pre-approval from HBC or L&T or Saks Fifth Avenue

and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH to extend the inspection. ITS will provide inspection cost quotation to the vendor prior to conducting the

inspection.)

Inspection Report & Inspection Certificate (IC) When a final inspection is completed the inspection agency will release an Inspection Report. The

report will have a pass, fail or pending status. The inspection agency will issue an Inspection

Certificate (IC) for a “Pass” report. “Failed” and “Pending” reports are reviewed by the Technical

team who will decide on a further action. A decision can be made to cancel, re-inspect and/or

accept the order and issue the Inspection certificate(IC) to the vendor.

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Appendix J: ITS Inspection Certificate Format 1 2

INSPECTION CERTIFICATE 3 4 MANUFACTURERS/ : SUPPLIERS

NUMBER :

DATE : 5 QUANTITY AND DESCRIPTION : OF MERCHANDISE

6 SHIPMENT : INSPECTION : A routine inspection (insert: Report Number) has been carried out on the above mentioned goods

on the basis of random samples taken out after production and compared against a standard.********** ****************************************************************

CONCLUSION : That the goods inspected comply with the buyer specification *****************************************************************

7 8 PREPARED AND CHECKED BY : 9 FOR INTERTEK TESTING 10 SERVICES HK LTD. - LABTEST 11 12 13 14 15 16 ____________________________ 17 GENERAL MANAGER 18 INSPECTION DIVISION 19 20 21 22 23 Routine Inspection of goods by Buyers prior to shipment shall not constitude a waiver of Sellers’ responsibility 24 which continues until the ultimate acceptance of the goods by the oversea consignees or their clients and it is 25 agreed that no time limit is set for the presentation of claims, if any, to Sellers. 26 27

Example of Inspection Form

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CHAPTER 8

Mechanically

Attached

Fasteners

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This section outlines required procedures and safety standards for Hudson’s Bay Company , Lord &

Taylor ,L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH softlines vendors working with

mechanically attached fasteners. These procedures and standards cover all garments for all genders,

and apply to all vendors and recommended suppliers. Since every contingency or eventuality cannot

be anticipated, and certain local circumstances or conditions may exist of which we have no

knowledge, vendors should take appropriate additional precautions in their own internal controls

and policies.

All defects in the attachment of mechanical fasteners are classified as critical (Pre-shipment

Inspection for more information), and when detected automatically result in the rejection of the

shipment in which they are found. There is a “Zero tolerance” policy for critical defects, and will

therefore not tolerate any deviation from the standards and guidelines outlined in this section.

Products that do not meet the requirements set out in this section will not receive approval to ship,

and we will only deal with vendors who are in full compliance and who can demonstrate that control

systems are in place and operational.

Recommended Suppliers

The following is a list of recommended suppliers of snap fasteners, buttons, rivets, eyelets, and any

other mechanically attached hardware components. Vendors may only use fasteners from one of

these suppliers.

• YKK Group (www.ykk.com) and its subsidiaries Universal Fasteners(USA, www.ykk-ufi.com),

Stocko Fasteners (Germany, www.stocko-ykk.de), and Newmax (Japan, www.ykk.co.jp), where

officially represented.

• Scovill Fasteners (www.scovill.com) and its officially appointed agencies worldwide, including

Acotex Far East (www.acotex.com).

• Prym (www.prym.com/en/html/c01.asp), and its subsidiaries, including Schaeffer, where

officially represented.

Snap requirements

All snaps (including stud, post, socket, and cap) must be metal. However, plastic caps for snaps are

allowed as long as they meet the strength requirements, as are plastic snap tapes from the

recommended suppliers.

Furthermore, it is mandated that all infant and children's wear must be passed through a conveyor

style metal detector prior to shipment to permit detection of broken needle chips, pins, staples, and

other ferromagnetic objects. All fasteners and eyelets on infant and children's wear must therefore

be non-ferrous to allow garments containing them to pass through without causing an alarm. Please

refer to Needle Control and Metal Detection section, for more information.

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Pull testing

The vendor must monitor the snap attachment strength of the components being applied to

children's garments a minimum of twice per eight-hour shift - once in the morning and once in the

afternoon. The vendor must document all results

The snap attachment strength should be tested on mock garments, with fasteners attached as per the

production method.

A minimum of eight (8) attachment (male and female) strength measurements must be taken during

each inspection. The measurements should be averaged like for pinch setting testing.

If the pull test records a failure, trained personnel must stop production on the attachment machine

in question immediately, and isolate all bundles manufactured on that machine since the last

recorded pull test.

Factory personnel should recheck all procedures. If the machine is faulty and the problem cannot be

corrected internally, the recommended supplier's technician must be contacted to evaluate the

problem. The supplier's technician will recommend a plan of corrective action. Trouble-shooting

will be case-by-case, and will depend on the cause of the pull test failure.

After the recommended supplier's technician has checked and verified all aspects of the machine,

the vendor must take the SPS again and conduct another pull test.

Prior to resuming production, 100 per cent of the garments in the isolated bundles must be

evaluated for the problem identified by the supplier's technician.

Required bulk garment testing

All styles for children's wear must be tested for safety. The vendor is responsible for submitting six

(6) garments per style chosen randomly from bulk production to the approved laboratory for

independent testing and verification that they meet safety specifications. All fasteners (both male and

female studs, where applicable) on the six (6) garments submitted will be tested regardless of how

many are contained on each garment.

The HBC-004 Test Method will be used to determine the attachment strength of mechanically

attached hardware components Hardware components are required to withstand the following

force applied over five (5) seconds and then maintained for 15 seconds:

Ring prong snaps, eyelets, and tack rivets: 15.0 lbs. minimum

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Ring prong snap fasteners, and tack rivets

Factories attaching fasteners to infant's and children's wear are required to have the following onsite

testing equipment.

A Chatillon, Imada, or SafQ snap tester

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CHAPTER 9

Needle Control

and Metal

Detection

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HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH require that vendors manufacture

all garments in a controlled environment and thoroughly check them to ensure that they are 100 per

cent safe. This section sets out mandated requirements involving needle control and metal detection,

but it remains the responsibility of each Vendor to ensure that only safe product reaches the stores.

HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH will deal only with vendors who

are in full compliance with the requirements set out in this section and who can demonstrate that

control systems are in place and operational, and will cease trading with vendors who cannot

establish through internal records that proper care and attention is being taken.

Key points

• A needle control system is mandatory for machine needles, hand-stitched work, and tagging gun

needles

• A control system is also necessary for sharp tools.

• All children’s garments must be passed through a conveyer-style metal detector.

Factory should have the following forms in place to monitor a needle control policy. Please see

example of a form for Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles.

Required Forms

• Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles

• Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product

• Needle Control Record for Hand-stitched Work

• Needle Control Record for Tagging Gun Needles

• Sharp Tools Control Record

• Metal Detection Record

• Metal Detector Testing Record

Needle control

A needle control system must be in place for all hand and machine-sewing operations, including off-

line embroidery rooms and other stand-alone sewing areas (e.g., sample rooms) and tagging

(Kimble) gun needles.. Only one supervisor or mechanic in each sewing line should be given

responsibility for needle control. This person will hereafter be called 'the needle supervisor.'

Sewing machine operators must not be allowed to possess spare needles. All needles other than

those fitted in machines are to be kept in a locked needle cupboard or drawer with only the needle

supervisor having access. All used needles must be replaced and collected by the needle supervisor

and placed in a sealed container for disposal. If a needle breaks, the sewing Machine operator must

summon the needle supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the sewing machine operator

has all the pieces of the broken needle in his or her possession.

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The needle supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken needle to the Needle Control Record for

Sewing Machine Needles with clear adhesive tape and record the incident before issuing a

replacement. (with the broken pieces below) must be kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where

the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of

the records.

If all the pieces of a needle cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area of the machine

that suffered the broken needle must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a

handheld metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or

pieces.

If the missing needle piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the

breakage occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed

Contaminated Product and cross-referenced in the Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine

Needles).

Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they

may be needed in the case of an investigation. The needle supervisor must keep these records in

his or her office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard.

The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log

must be available upon request.

Sharp tools (e.g. knives and scissors)

Only one supervisor should be given responsibility for managing sharp tools. All sharp tools must

be kept in a locked cupboard or drawer which only the supervisor can access. The supervisor must

record the total number of sharp tools on line, all of which must be tied to work benches.

Workers must request new blades and/or sharp tools from the supervisor. If a sharp tool breaks, the

worker must summon the supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the worker has all the

pieces of the broken tool in his or her possession. The supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken

tool to the Sharp Tools Control Record (similar to Needle control form with clear adhesive tape and

record the incident before issuing a replacement. Form with the broken pieces attached, must be

kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken

pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of the records.

If all the pieces of a sharp tool cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area where the

tool was being operated must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a hand-held

metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or pieces.

If the missing tool piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the breakage

occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated

Product and cross-referenced in the Sharp Tools Control Record.

Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they

may be needed in the case of an investigation. The supervisor must keep these records in his or her

office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard.

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The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log

must be available upon request from HBC or Lord & Taylor or L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks

Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH .

Metal detection

It is required that all apparel and products for infants, toddlers, and children (including all other

soft textile items such as stuffed toys or dolls, bedding, blankets, etc.) be passed through metal

detection equipment. For adult apparel, vendors are exempt from performing the following

detection procedure; however, vendors must conduct their own internal quality checks on all

products.

To allow the metal detection equipment to function, all snaps and other metal components used in

products for children must be non-ferrous and nickel free. The detection process must be

conducted when goods are completed and ready for packing. The goods may pass through the

detecting machine either in or out of polythene bags and then must be packed or put into cartons

immediately.

The detection equipment must be located in a confined area that is effectively metal free. The

machine must rest on a level surface and be calibrated and regularly serviced in accordance with the

maker's manual. The operation of the equipment should be restricted to a limited number of fully

trained, responsible employees. When the detector registers an alarm, an entry should be made in

the Metal Detection Record. The supervisor should attach any metal pieces found to Form with

clear, sticky tape. The product should then be passed through the detector once more to ensure that

all traces have been removed.

If a product registers an alarm and no metal can be found, then the product must be destroyed,

since a needle part or metal component may be concealed in a seam and may surface later. Any

destruction of product must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product (Form

12) and cross referenced with the Metal Detection Record.

During the course of a working day, the metal detector must be regularly tested in accordance with

the maker's instructions to ensure it is working properly; the results of these tests must be kept in

the Metal Detector Testing Record. Testing usually involves passing two 1.2 mm ferrous cards

through the machine separately. The first card should lie flat on the conveyor while the second

should sit on a small nonmetallic block, to ensure that the machine is detecting at a range of heights

from the conveyor. The alarm should sound in both instances.

If the alarm fails to sound, the supervisor should be called to reset the sensitivity level. If the

supervisor cannot adjust the machine to register an alarm, no further product may be processed until

a trained engineer repairs the machine. Forms should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the

ex-factory shipping date, since they may be case of an investigation. The factory must keep all

records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log must be available upon

request from HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH .

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CHAPTER 10

Contact

Information

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Key Contacts –HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF

5TH

Hudson’s Bay Company

8925 Torbram Road Brampton Ontario L6T 4G1 Phone 905.792.4400 Fax905.595.7250 www.hbc.com

Lord & Taylor and SAKS LLC

424 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10018 Phone 212.391.5356 Fax212.382.7366 www.lordandtaylor.com

Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5th 21 Penn Plaza 362 Ninth Avenue, 17th Floor New York, NY 10001 www.saks.com

Mr. David Miller Senior Vice President of Global Sourcing 424 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10018

Tel : + 1 212 382 6191 Fax : +1 212 382 7366 e-mail: [email protected] Ms.Maureen Metzinger Sr. Manager of Logistic and Import

Tel : +1 212 391 3560 Fax : +1 212 382 7366

e-mail: [email protected]

Ms. Amy O’Shea Vice President ,Sourcing Production and QA-Saks Brands Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH 362 Ninth Avenue, 16th Floor New York, NY 10001

Tel : + 1 212 549 1380 Fax : +1 212 320 4702 e-mail: [email protected] Ms. Helene Guinan Director HBC Imports Payable and Customs accounting

Tel : +1 416 216 7544 Fax : +1 416 861 6349 e-mail: [email protected]

Mr. Neeraj Gupta Director, Technical Design and Quality Assurance

Tel: +1 905 792 4749 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250


Ms. Jihea Pu Director, Softlines Technical Design

Tel: +1 212 391 3428 Fax:: +1 212 382 7366


Ms. Julie Yan Director, Social Compliance

Tel: +1 905 792 4679 Fax : +1 905 595 7250


Ms. Barb Pauk Sr. Manager, Packaging and Production

Tel: +1 905 792 5250 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250


http://www.hbc.com/

http://www.lordandtaylor.com/

http://www.saks.com/

mailto:[email protected]





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GLOBAL CONTACT:

Arjun Parmar

Intertek Consumer Goods North America

6225 Kenway Dr. Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 2L3

Tel: 1 905 678 4924

Cell: 1 647 292 8718

Fax: 1 905 678 7131

Email: [email protected]

Seemanta Mitra

Intertek Consumer Goods North America

1 Gateway center, Suite 1030

Newark, NJ 07102

Phone: (732) 394-5367


FAR EAST:

Arthur Lai

Intertek Consumer Goods Hong Kong Ltd

1/F Garment Ctr, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kln, Hong Kong

Office Tel : 852 21738208

Fax : 852 3403 2660

e-mail : [email protected]

Mobile: 852 61105558

HONG KONG

Intertek Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd.

2/F Garment Centre, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Testing Main Contact Backup Contact

Textile/

Garment/

Linens/

Footwear/

Handbags

& Luggage

For Test application and job status

Ms Canny Yeung

Tel: 852 21738309


Ms Stephanie Wong

Tel: 852 2173 8306


Account Manager:

Mr Arthur Lai

Tel: 852 2173 8208

Mobile: 852 61105558


Mr Alex Lee

Tel: 852 2173 8387


Shanghai

Intertek Testing Services Ltd, Shanghai

Textile, Garment, Home textile testing



blocked::mailto:[email protected]





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3/F, No. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park, 889 Yishan Road, Puxi, Shanghai, 200233,

China


Textile/

Garment/

Home Textile

For Test application and job status

Ms. Fiona Mou

Tel: 86 21 6091-7043

Fax: 86 21 6485-0559


Account Manager:

Ms. Rebecca Yue

Tel: 86 21 6091-7080

Fax: 86 21 6485-0559


Inspection

(North&East

China)

Ms. Linda Sun

Tel: 86 21 6495-6108*5204

Fax: 86 21 6495-0635/34

E-mail: [email protected]

Ms. Tina Liu

Tel: 86 21 6181-5742

Fax: 86 21 6181-5394


Shenzhen

Intertek Testing Services Shen Zhen Ltd.-Inspection

5/F, M-Space, Building A, Nanhai Avenue South Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen, China, 518067

Inspection Main Contact Backup Contact

South China

Inspection

Elaine Ni

Tel: 86 755 26020684

Fax: 86 755 2602 0811


Ms. Janet Kann

Tel: 86 755 2602-0878

Fax: 86 755 2602-0811


CSR Abby Feng

Tel: 86-769-23133411

e-fax: 86-755-26020742-3411


Angel Hu

Tel: 86 755 2602-0846

Fax: 86 755 2602-0899


Taiwan

Intertek Testing Services Taiwan Ltd.

No. 423, Ruiguang Rd., Neihu District, Taipei City 114, Taiwan

Toys & Hardline testing, Inspection: 8/F and E&E testing: 5/F


Textile/

Garment/

Linens

Ms Angel Yu

Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.608

Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401


Ms Miranda Chang

Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.637

Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401


Account Manager

Mr. Angus Tsai

Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.611

Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401


Ms Candy Lin

Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.635

Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401


Bangladesh

ITS Labtest Bangladesh Ltd.

T. K. Bhaban (5th and 6th floor), 13 Kawran Bazar C/A, Dhaka 1215, Bangladesh.


Textile/

Garment/ Home

Textile

Ms. Kaniz Fatema

Group Leader

Mobile: +8801714143625 Tel : +880 2

815 6226-28, Ext - 422

Account Manager

Mr. Afzal Hussain

Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 401

Fax: 88 02 9125866













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Fax : +880 2 912 5866



Inspection Ms. Sharmin Bhuyian

Tel : + 8802 815 6226 ~ 8 ( Ext - 601)

Fax : + 8802 912 5866


Mr. Mamun Zaman

Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 101

Fax: 88 02 9125866


India - Gurgaon

Intertek Testing Services India Private Ltd.

290,Udyog Vihar,Phase II,Gurgaon,Haryana – 122 016,India


Textile/

Garment/ Home

Textile

Mr. Manish Nangia

T: 91 124 4503413

F: 91 124 4303592

E: [email protected]

Account Manager: Mr. Umesh Kumar

T: 91 124 4503437

F: 91 124 4303592

E: [email protected] Laboratory Manager : Govind Kumar Jha T : 91 124 4503426 F : 91 124 4303592

E : [email protected]

Inspection /

SCA

Mr. Satish Gupta / Selvakumaran L S

Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6,Ext# 3446

Fax: 0091-124-4303564

Email: [email protected],

[email protected]

Mr. Arvind Patil

Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6, Ext# 3444

Fax: 0091-124-4303564












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APPENDIX A

Forms

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Test Request Form

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Test Request Form continued

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Fabric Submit Information Sheet

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Lab Dip /Strike-off /Embroidery/Fabric Approval Form

Visual color matching by using a light box: HBC requires that matching must be conducted with at least

three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no

visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will approve

vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources.



visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will

approve vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources.

Spectrophotometer readings: ____________________________________________________



visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will

approve vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources.

Spectrophotometer readings: ____________________________________________________

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APPENDIX B

List of Apparel

Testing

Protocols

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List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols

Item Test Protocol # Woven Separates-Cotton, Linen, Nylon, Polyester and Blends A-01 Woven Separates-Silk, Silk blend, Wool and Wool Blends A-02 Woven Separates-Sandwashed & Washable Silk, or Rayon A-03 Knit Dress and Jackets all Fibers A-04 Knit Top and T-Shirts all fibers except Linen A-05 Knit Top and T-Shirts-Linen and Linen Blends A-06 Woven Separates-Linen and Linen Blends A-07 Woven Separates-Fancy decorated (bead, sequins, gel) A-08 Woven Lining Fabric all fibers A-09 Fancy Woven Separates-Sateen, Voile, Georgette, etc A-10 Woven Dress Shirts all fibers B-01 Woven Casual Shirts Cotton and Blends except Corduroy B-02 Woven Corduroy Shirts B-03

Woven Casual Bottoms all fiber except Corduroy & Denim C-01 Corduroy Bottoms and Overalls, Coveralls- Unlined C-02 Knitted Bottoms, Overalls, Jumpsuits, Rompers all fibers C-03 Woven Denim Garments Unlined, Cotton and Stretch Cotton D-01 Woven Non-Denim Shortalls, Overalls, Coveralls, Crawlers D-02 Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Cotton or Cotton blends D-03 Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Synthetic or blend D-04 Sweater-Basic Knit Cotton and Blends E-01-A Sweater-Delicate stitch, basic Intarsia in Cotton E-01-B Sweater-Hand Knit delicate stitch Intarsia in Cotton E-01-C Sweater-Hand Knit lace crochet, Fancy decor in Cotton E-01-D Sweater-Delicate stitch basic intarsia with Embroidery E-01-E Acrylic and Acrylic blend Basic Knits E-02-A Acrylic and Acrylic Blend delicate stitch, Embroidery E-02-B Acrylic Blends, delicate stitch, with fancy embellish E-02-C Wool and Wool Blends, Shetland, Lambs wool, Merino E-03-A Wool and Blends, Delicate, hand intarsia, embroidered E-03-B Boiled, Brushed or delicate stitch Wools E-03-C Basic Sweaters Novelty Yarn Blends E-04-A Delicate Stitch or Fiber Blends in Novelty Yarns E-04-B Basic Sweater Silk and Silk blends E-05-A Delicate Stitch, Hand Intarsia, fancy decorated on Silk and blends E-05-B Woven Blazers-Lined, Corduroy, Velveteen and Velvet F-01 Woven Lightweight Jackets and Coats unlined F-02 Woven Corduroy Jackets, Unlined F-03 Woven Washable Jackets and Coats, all weaves F-04-A ALL-WEATHER OUTERWEAR – WOVEN and FILLED F-05 Knitted Accessories-Acrylic, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester F-06 Knitted Accessories-Wool and Wool Blends F-07-A Wool Felt & Fancy Headwear and Accessories F-07-B Hats (Woven & Straw) F-07-C Socks, Cotton and Cotton Blends F-08-A

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List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols cont’d

Item Test Protocol # Socks, Acrylic, Polyester and Blends F-08-B

Tights, Basic Stitch in Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric F-09-A Tights, Delicate Stitch, Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric F-09-B

Tights, Basic Stitch in Acrylic and Acrylic Blends F-09-C Tights, Delicate Construction for Acrylic and Acrylic Blends F-09-D Tights, Delicate Fiber Content and Construction Wool and Wool Blends F-09-E Knit or Woven Swimwear and Exercise Leotards G-01 Knit or Woven Briefs, Panties, Undershirts, and Camisoles G-02 Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Cotton and Blends & Brushed G-03 Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Synthetics and Blends & Brushed

G-04

Knit Nightgowns, Pyjamas & Robes all fibers and Brushed G-05 Woven Nightwear, Pyjamas, Robes, Daywear 100% Silk G-06 Bras G-07 LEATHER GARMENTS H-01 LIGHTWEIGHT JACKETS, PVC OR PVC OR PU COATED OR LAMINATED FABRICS

H-02

ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS J-01 Children's Addendum J-02 Additional testing requirements for kids item for L&T/SAKS (USA) J-03 NON-RECOMMENDED Zipper requirement J-04 Additional testing requirements for Adult items for L&T/SAKS (USA) J-05

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List of Apparel & Apparel Accessories Testing Protocols

Item Test Protocol # Woven Tops LT-01 Woven Bottoms LT-02 Knit Bottoms LT-03 Knit Tops LT-04 Woven Intimates LT-05 Knit Intimates LT-06 Woven Outerwear LT-07 Woven Suits LT-08 Slippers & Indoor Shoes LT-09 Kids Woven Garment LT-10 Kids Knit Garments LT-11 Hat and Caps LT-12 Accessories (Ties, Knit/Woven Scarves, Gloves) and Socks LT-13 Leather & Suede Items LT-14 Knit Sweaters LT-16 Cashmere Items LT-17 Additional requirements for Kids items in US market LT-19 ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS HBC- J01 Children’s Addendum HBC-J02 Additional requirements for kids items for Canada HBC-K01 Additional requirements for adults items for Canada HBC-K02 Buttons, Zipper and Trims testing Refer to HBC protocols for Trims Handbag, Backpack, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #1) Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #1 Belts (HL&A #3) Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #3 Wallets & Small Leather Goods (HL&A # 5) Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #5 Umbrella (HL&A # 6) Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #6 Clutch, Evening Bag, Cosmetic bag & Make-up case (HL&A#7) Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #7 Jewelry (Adult) Refer to HBC protocol for Jewelry #4

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APPENDIX C

Reference

Materials

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Country of Origin

Made in Bangladesh Fabriqué au Bangladesh

Made in Belgium Fabriqué en Belgique

Made in Brazil Fabriqué au Brésil

Made in Canada Fabriqué au Canada

Made in China Fabriqué en Chine

Made in Colombia Fabriqué en Colombie

Made in Cambodia Fabriqué au Cambodge

Made in Korea Fabriqué en Corée

Made in Costa Rica Fabriqué au Costa Rica

Made in Czech Republic Fabriqué en République tchèque

Made in Dominican Republic Fabriqué en République dominicaine

Made in El Salvador Fabriqué au Salvador

Made in England Fabriqué en Angleterre

Made in Germany Fabriqué en Allemagne

Made in Guatemala Fabriqué au Guatemala

Made in Haiti Fabriqué en Haïti

Made in Honduras Fabriqué au Honduras

Made in Hong Kong Fabriqué à Hong Kong

Made in India Fabriqué en Inde

Made in Indonesia Fabriqué en Indonésie

Made in Israel Fabriqué en Israël

Made in Italy Fabriqué en Italie

Made in Japan Fabriqué au Japon

Made in Malaysia Fabriqué en Malaisie

Made in Mexico Fabriqué au Mexique

Made in Nicaragua Fabriqué au Nicaragua

Made in Pakistan Fabriqué au Pakistan

Made in Peru Fabriqué au Pérou

Made in Philippines Fabriqué aux Philippines

Made in Portugal Fabriqué au Portugal

Made in Russia Fabriqué en Russie

Made in Singapore Fabriqué à Singapour

Made in Slovakia Fabriqué en Slovaquie

Made in Spain Fabriqué en Espagne

Made in Sri Lanka Fabriqué au Sri Lanka

Made in Switzerland Fabriqué en Suisse

Made in Taiwan Fabriqué à Taïwan

Made in Thailand Fabriqué en Thaïlande

Made in Turkey Fabriqué en Turquie

Made in United States Fabriqué aux États-Unis

Made in USA Fabriqué aux É.-U.

Made in Vietnam Fabriqué au Vietnam

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Tracking Code for Kids Items – HBC,L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF

5TH

Products

1) First 5 digits will reference the manufacturing factory.

(This can be 3 initial letters from first word and one letter each from subsequent word. For example: NINGBO SEDNO GARMENT can be NINSG)

2) Next 2 digits will be the ISO code of the country. ( Please refer to below list)

3) Next 6 digits for the production date of the product (021011) would be Feb.10, 2011.

(This date should be related to production batch time frame and provided by vendor. The purpose is for vendor to trace back the production batch. It can be production start date)

4) Next digits (up to four digits) are the batch or lot run number information. This is

required as per the guide lines from US consumer product safety improvement act

(CPSIA).

For textile products with wash care label, the tracking code can be listed on the care label below the HBC/L&T/Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH , CA/RN numbers. For any other products it can be listed on the product or on the packaging. Please see below ISO code list for some countries. Name of the country Code BANGLADESH BD CAMBODIA KH CANADA CA CHINA CN HONGKONG HK INDIA- IN PAKISTAN PK Taiwan TW Thailand TH VIETNAM VN USA US Detailed list of ISO country code can be obtained from following link.

http://www.iso.org/iso/country_names_and_code_elements

http://www.iso.org/iso/country_names_and_code_elements

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