MİTHAT ÖZTEKİN ELECT. ELECTR ENG. COTTON EXPERT ( MS )

Welcome to the World of FANCY YARN by AMSLER TEX

Fancy YarnSingle 2 Component

3ComPo

nent

• Fancy yarn is related to people's imagination and offers a wide variety.

• Spiral Yarn

• Tuberous Yarn

• Gimp Yarn

• Ratine iplikler

• Buklet Yarn

• Loop yarn

• Twisted Yarn

• Nope Yarn

* In the form of the yarn, the color, brightness, raw materials quality etc., showing the characteristics feature, that the aesthetics of a particular fabric with fabric finish are called Fancy yarn

• Flok Yarn• Jaspe iplikler

• Melange Yarn

Muline Yarn• Vigure Yarn

Eksantrik Yarn• Frize Yarn

• Metalic Yarn

Knitting yarn• Core Yarn• Cyro Yarn • injection Yarn

• Slub Yarn

• Short slub Yarn

Multi Count Yarn• Multi Twist Yarn

Gipe Yarn

• Chenille Yarn

• Negative Slub Yarn

WHAT IS FANCY YARN ?

• Dual Core Yarn

• Rigit Yarn

Slub

• A single layer structure of the flat yarn is created with Program control by changes in thickness and length, ‘’Slub – Flamme Yarn’’ is called.

WHAT IS SLUB YARN ?

AMSLER Fancy Yarn Devices

SDE – Ground Slub System MC – Multi Count Yarn System

MT/ TC – Multi Twist Yarn System CORE XXX – Core Yarn System

XSS – Extreme Short Slub

E_Profi – Slub and Fabric Simulation Program

HPC – High performance coolingOE System

3C – Injection System

T 400 Fiber Cyro Yarn

…….We have a solution for Fancy Yarn Productions.

NULU – New Look OE Yarn mDraft – Multi Drfat CORE system

THE WORKING PRINCIBLE OF THE SYSTEM AIM OF THE SYSTEM IS TO CONTROL THE SPEEDS OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERSIT MEANS THAT, THE SPEED OF DRAFT AND TWIST ROLLERS ARE INCREASED BY EXTRA AMSLER MOTORS (BACK, MIDDLE, FRONT ROLLERS )SO THAT, THERE IS A MECHANICAL MODIFICATION ON MACHINE.THE MACHINE HAS DRIVED WITH 2 SIDE ( HEAD – SUCTION ) FOR DRAFT IF THE RING SPINING MACHINE IS LONG , THE MACHINE HAS 3 DRIVE ( HEAD,MIDDLE,SYN.)

FOR O.E MACHINE, THE SPEED OF FEEDING ROLLERS ARE CONTROLLED BY EXTRA AMSLER MOTORS

DRIVE OF TWIST AND DRAFT BY MOTORS

DRIVE OF FEEDING ROLLERS BY MOTOR

Working principle for ground slubs on ring spin frame

Drafting system

Feedrollers

Motor/gearing-diagram

Motor

Motor

Motor

Spindles

MotorFeed rollers

* Speed of Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )

* Drive The Twist and Draft with additional Gearbox

Front Roller

Working principle for ground slubs on open-end

* Feed Rollers are controlled by Motor (Accelerated )

Feed Roller

STG Control Box

TYPES OF YARN WHICH KIND OF FANCY YARN CAN WE PRODUCE WITH AMSLER DEVICE ?• GROUND SLUB YARN ( GF ) • MULTI COUNT YARN ( MC) • MUTI TWIST YARN ( TC )• EXTREME SHORT SLUB YARN (XS-S) • NEGATIVE SLUB

Basic information on AMSLER SDE - MC – TC System

• Long slub is not a MC yarn type • Twist characteristic is different on

thick place which is called slub when comparing with Normal yarn ( base yarn )

• ideal base and thick length of MC,TC yarn should be min. 200 cm. due to variable twist

• MC and TC yarn have variable twist on the yarn.

GF / GROUND FLAMME – GS / BASIC SLUB

GROUND FLAMME and BASIC SLUB are SAME MEANING. BASİC SLUB YARN ; * Min. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE FİBER LENGTH ( For Example ; 3 cm for Cotton ) * Max. SLUB LENGTH SHOULD BE EQUAL TO TWIST ZONE ( Depend on slub Thickness ) * TWIST IS CONSTANT ON THE YARN * 180 SLUB / MIN IS POSSIBLE ON THE SYSTEM * Max.THICKNESS IS 4.8 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS ( FD Table )RING FRAME ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = FIBER LENGTH + % 10 FIBER LENGTH O.E. SPINING ; MINIMUN SLUB LENGTH = ROTOR DIAMETER

Various SLUB

Slub Thickness are look like ladder ( increasing and decreasing step by step )

Slub Thickness and Slub Legth are constant

Slub Thickness is Constant Slub Length is variable

MC / MULTI COUNT

MULTI COUNT YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) AND TWIST ARE VARIABLE ON THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS.* MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 2.2 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS

TC / MULTI TWIST

MULTI TWIST YARN ; * YARN COUNT ( Ne ) IS CONSTANT AND TWIST IS VARIABLE THE YARN * DRAFT AND TWIST SYSTEM ARE CONTROLED BY AMSLER MOTORS. * * MİNUMUM THICKNESS LENGTH = LEGTH OF THE TWIST ZONE. * Max. THICKNESS IS 1.5 THICK THEN BASE THICKNESS

SLUB YARN DESIGN 1 - FROM YARN SAMPLE

* Using USTER Mass Diagram

* To Measure ( Slub Length and thickness )

* To Weigth ( Cut Slub Length and Cut Normal Yarn length )

2 - FROM FABRIC SAMPLE

3 - ON THE PHONE ( Min. – Max. Values, Thickness etc. )

4 - FROM CODE ( Amsler EP code or Other slub system code )

3-methodes of effect yarn programming, resulting in fixed chart

Fabric copy

Programm code chart: EPX

Yarn scanning

PC created codes from WinPK II

Transformation of the full effect yarn in digital data for length, thickness and distances between effects for a defined pattern,called programm REPORT. No un-defined randomizer.

Development

100% repeating REPORT

Codes created by AMSLER Yarn scanner

1 or 2 3or

Up to 4000 fix codes, each access-able

30 0 7 890 015 5

==>

AMSLER Principle of programming

Codes created byscanning of single yarn

DECIMAL CODE / Normal Slub BASE YARN LEGTH , SLUB LENGTH , SLUB THICKNESS DESIGNATE ON THE SAMPLE YARN.EFFECT PROGRAM CODE IS TWO DIGIT.

X X

LENGTH ( SE ) OR (CH1)

THICKNESS ( FD ) OR (CH2)

Z1 Z2

Z0

X1 X2 X3

Y1 Y2

X1,X2,X3,...........= BASE YARN LEGTHY1,Y2,Y3,...........= SLUB LEGTH Z0........................= BASE YARN THICKNESS and IT IS CODE ‘’ 0 ‘’ IN THE PROGRAM Z1,Z2,..................= SLUB THICKNESS

ADRES LENGTH THICKNESS 0 X1 Z0 1 Y1 Z1 2 X2 Z0 3 Y2 Z2 4 X3 Z0

. . . .

SLUB Yarn Measurement from USTER Mass Diagram

Slub Length SLUB Thickness

Base Yarn Length

SLUB Thickness

Slub Length Slub Length

Base Yarn Length

5

EXAMPLE : CH1 Slub program Code

45

3

20 13 21

Lenght Thickness 3

4

NEGATIVE SLUB

Normal Slub and Negative Slub explanations

Negative Slub

Normal Slub

Negative Slub Yarn Board and Fabric

Prior to the actual production, we are able to project on a computer screen the virtual reality fabric:

“THE MAGIC WORLD OF FANCY YARN”

E-Profi system = key to the future !

AMSLER TEX E-PROFI system

SLUB Analyse

SLUB Clasification

Hardware

Software

FABRIC PREVIEWQUALITY

DEVELOPMENT LIGHT

SCANNER

OPEN ENDiplik efekti

RINGiplik efekti

LİKRA iplik

donanımları

WinPK® II sistem donanımı

Effect-PROFI scanner sitemi

AMSLER Effect-PROFI SystemWİNPK PROGRAM HAS 4 MODULES ;1- LIGTH, 2- DEVELOPMENT, 3-QUALITY , 4- FABRIC PREVİEW QUALITY MODULE IS INCLUDING YARN SCANNER.COMPLETE PROGRAM IS CALLED ‘’ E_PROFI ‘’

YARN SCANNER

• AMSLER yarn scanner range is between Ne 1 ve 120 • Blue Light should be continously light before scan the yarn with Laser Scanner• Frist start and time to time , Calibration of Laser Scanner is necessary with Coloured Calibration Sticks

THERE IS TWO TYPE YARN SCANNER,

* LASER SCANNER

* FLAT SCANNER

KNITTING SIMULATION

FABRIC IMAGE AFTER CUT AND WASH FACTOR

2

9

6

2

2

6

2

WinPK_EprofiFabric Preview

Aynı efekt programın farklı renk ve Taşlama ile Yıkama görüntüleri

Design Original Fabric

Negative / Positive Slub XSS – Extreme Short

Slub Yarn Board

This is an exampleFrom Yarn to Fabric

ABOUT QUALITY AND WORK ON RSM * TWIST * TRAVELLER * CLİP * DRAFT ON RSM - Total Draft - Predraft * DELIVERY SPEED * Lab. CHECKING * USTER TEST RESULT

pre draft (usual 1.14)

main draft

total draft (minimal 20)

Roving material and twist

and roller- distance

and roller- distance

toproller Ø, condition, rubber quality, rubber hardnes (shore)

Spacer climateapron condition and quality

pre draft, main draft, total draft

DRAFTING SYSTEM

Creation of yarn twist

The most important component is the traveler

Why do we need twist in the yarn ?

YARN TWIST without fibre friction= no yarn strength

with fibre friction= yarn strength

No twist, no yarnTo make the yarn strongerHow set the twist of slub yarn ?

% 120 % 250

Av. Ne 10 ( KES 341 ) Twist T’’ 13,9 (α=4.4 ) 5,48 Turn/cm

Ne 8,2 T’’ 13,9 ( 12,6 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 5 )

Ne 3,9 T’’ 13,9 ( 8,69 ) 5,48 tur /cm ( 3,5 )

Ne 12 T’’ 13,9 (15,2 ) 5,48 tur/cm ( 6 )

Ne 12 T’’ 13,9

Ne 12 T’’ 13,9

Cotton Mic. 4,4 Cross 874

Cross 284 Cross 284 CrossS 416 CrossS 284

* Av. Ne * Distribution Ne * Twist * The Number of Fiber Cross section

(α=4 )

(α=4.85 )

(α=4 ) (α=6 )(α=3,5 )

TRAVELLER

Wire profile

f = flat dr = half round udr = ultra (wide) half round fr = flat / round

Traveller shape

low - bowed low to medium bowed high - bowed

Only for cotton Fine cotton yarns,blends, syntheticsand SLUB YARN

for cotton, blends, (SLUB YARN)

For Core yarn with PES coreAcrylics, delicate fibers

and CORE SLUB YARN

fine cotton and compact yarns

for fine to medium

cotton yarns

for medium to coarse cotton yarns, also

blends, synthetics andSLUB YARN

For Slubyarn the traveler will be 1 to 3 numbers heavier than normal It depends on slub thickness

Front cylinder 100% stop Front cylinder 95% stop

XSS recommendation

Thin place

Basic Slub recommendation

For long slub

MC / MT recommendation200 cm 200 cm200 cm

Ladder

THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Mithat ÖZTEKİNElectric-Electronic Engineer

Cotton Expert ( Ms )