sisal + rugs + carpet + binding + blinds +...

Product Support Guide

Sisal + Rugs + Carpet + Binding + Blinds + Tiles

about us 1

hand-knotted rugs 4

hand-tufted rugs 6

hand-woven rugs 8

frequently asked questions 11

yarn guide 18

techniques 20

care and maintenance guide 21

spot and stain guide 23

commercial warranty 30

domestic warranty 31

Table of Contents

about us...We are a New Zealand owned company, run by passionate design enthusiasts, servicing the needs and wants of Architects, Interior Designers and Decorators. Our rugs feature in some of the grandest homes and commercial sites in New Zealand and throughout the world.

Artisan Flooring creates high quality, beautifully customised bespoke rugs as well as offering a wide range of superb in-stock rugs throughout New Zealand and overseas.

Our extremely innovative textile design team specialises in high quality, exclusive, contemporary & transitional rugs; we offer a stunning range of extensive pom colours in combination with an online design program where you can personally re-colour your favourite design from our extensive design collection. Our skilled rug design team are available to draw any creation and can scale to any size.

Primarily, this guide is to help in the care and maintenance of your rug. It will advise you on how to get the best from your rug and in the event an accident does occur, we have detailed how best to approach the stain.

Please reference our website, artisancollective.co.nz for contact details in the event you require professional cleaning services.

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hand-knotted

hand-woven

hand-tufted

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Hand knotting rugs is a centuries’ old skill passed down by many generations to modern artisans. Our own weavers’ heritage can be traced back over 300 years.

Every knot is individually hand-tied to the weft & warp. The master weaver follows a hand drawn design map to complete the design accurately. Weaving can take many weeks, and is dependent on design; colours, fibres and shape.

To finish; the rug is washed, the pile is shaved, the design is then carved and finally the edges are hand bound. Each step is reliant on environmental factors.

Please note: Knot counts can vary greatly from one end of a rug to the other. Knotted rugs are hand made and will vary for many reasons. Knot counts are a guideline only.

Our skilled crafts people will match the perfect quality to each unique design.

The creation process and density of a hand-knotted rug

1 In

ch o

r 2.5

4cm

1 Inch or 2.54cm

Tibetan weaving: The yarn is looped around a rod, woven through two warps and hammered into rows. A cut pile is formed by cutting the loop on the rod. A loop pile is formed by not cutting the loop on the rod. The final step is to remove the rod.

Density: Count the number of knots in a square inch of the rug.

Available in: 45 | 60 | 80 | 100 Hand Knotted

Tibetan Knot

Asymmetric Knot

Soumak Knot

Persian Knot

Kilim Knot

hand-knotted

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Step 1 - Drawing the design map to scale by hand. Step 2 - Dying of yarn with colourfast chrome dyes.

Step 5 - Carving and shaving the rug expertly by hand. Step 6 - Finishing, hand stitching the edging.

Step 3 - Weaving by highly skilled master weavers. Step 4 - Washing and drying.

hand-knotted

hand-tufted

A hand-tufted rug is a fairly modern style of making hand rugs. Firstly, the wool is dyed and the design is hand drawn and transferred to the mesh backing. Tufts are created by pushing yarn through the mesh backing. Hand-tufted rug artisans use a tool called a ‘hand-tufter’ which holds the yarn and pushes through the backing. Hand-tufted rug artisans use a tool called a ‘hand-tufter’ which holds the yarn and

pushes through the backing, which is stretched and placed on a frame. It requires a high level of craftsmanship to efficiently and accurately portray the intricate designs.

A craftsman will use a latex glue to hold the ‘tufts’ in place, which is then covered by a final cloth backing to protect your floor. The final steps involve washing, drying, shearing and hand carving the tops of the tufts to create the finished rug. The height of the pile is determined by how much yarn is cut off, and how far the initial yarn was pushed through.

The tufting method creates a highly durable and beautifully accurate handmade rug that will endure foot traffic for years to come.

The creation process and density of a hand-tufted rug:

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Density: Count the number of lines that run across 30.48cm. Available in 80 | 100 | 120 Line hand tufted.

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Step 1 - Drawing of the design map and transferring. Step 2 - Dying of yarn.

Step 5 - Applying the latex and the backing. Step 6 - Finishing, carving and shaving the finished rug.

Step 3 - Hand-tufting the yarn through the design map. Step 4 - Washing and drying.

hand-tufted

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Hand woven rugs are made in a similar way to hand-knotted rugs but rather than tying individual knots to the warp, the woven rug is interwoven through the warp. Most hand woven rugs are made on looms that lie flat just above the ground on a frame.

The “shuttle”, which can be seen in the photograph below is passed from weaver to weaver. There are many different techniques to making hand woven rugs. Hand weaving particularly suits shaggy rugs and geometric designs.

Hand Loom

hand-woven

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Step 1 - Select the colour & style. Step 2 - Dying the yarn.

Step 5 - Picking out the loose yarn by hand. Step 6 - Finishing and edging the rug by hand.

Step 3 - Hand weaving using flat looms. Step 4 - Washing and drying.

hand-woven

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Liapol

frequently asked questions...

We often get questions regarding the various features of our rugs. We have compiled a list of the most frequent enquiries to help in the selection; expectation, maintenance and care of your rug.

What is your no. 1 cleaning tip?

The best tip we can give, before any chemicals are used, is to blot, blot and blot some more until there is no liquid left. Add some water and blot again. Keep repeating this process and the stain will reduce. Never scrub a stain.

We recommend calling a professional cleaner to give you the best chance of minimising any damage.

How accurate are the colours in the drawing provided?

The drawings that Artisans Designers’ provide are indicative only. Due to individual settings on computer screens, monitors and printers, colours will always vary. Artisan guarantees colours to within 3% when choosing colours from our exclusive pom boxes.

The size of a hand-made rug, will it be exact?

Master weavers take great care to produce rugs to specified sizes, but due to the bespoke nature of the craft, hand-made rugs can, and will, vary. It is commonly acceptable for a hand-made rug to vary by up to 3% in size as a rug can expand and contract with variations in the temperature and humidity while in transport.

Are children used to make my rug?

No. Artisan only uses suppliers that support child free labour. Specifically, Cadrys is a proud supporter of Goodweave (an amazing charity that aims to transform the rug industry by certifying child-labor-free rugs and by providing education and opportunities to rescued and at-risk children) and The Rug Establishment supports Care & Fare (also a wonderful charity and initiative against illegal child labour and for the support of people working in carpet and rug production in India, Nepal and Pakistan).

What happens to the squareness of a hand-made rug?

The rugs will come off the loom perfectly square. There are many elements that will cause a rug to become unbalanced – humidity, transport, environmental etc. Hand-knotted and hand-woven rugs can lose their shape and can be easily fixed by placing a weight on one side and pulling the

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effected area back into shape. The weft and warp will adjust accordingly.

The accepted tolerance for shape differences on a hand-made rug is 3% from one edge to the other.

Is the yarn colour-fast?

Artisan uses only the highest quality Swiss colourfast chrome dyes. The dying process is very effective, however it will not protect the yarn from fading when placed in direct sunlight. Different yarns will vary in colour fastness. Art silk and pure silk will fade more than wool and therefore it is an acceptable standard for hand-made rugs to fade 10-15% over the life of the rug. It is essential to rotate your rug on a regular basis to avoid uneven colour variation from UV degradation and traffic.

What happens if my rug were to shed? (Otherwise known as pilling, shedding, fluffing).

Fibres will shed throughout the life of the rug; the amount of shedding will reduce through time and maintenance, therefore it is best to vacuum the rug on a regular basis. Avoid the use of a rotating brush head when using a vacuum, standard brush heads are more effective and less likely to catch (and thereby damage) the edges.

My rug is sprouting tufts, how do I fix this?

A rug consists of millions of fibres. Throughout the life of the rug, these fibres will rise to the surface due to the traffic the rug receives through vacuuming. It is not a fault in the rug. Please do not pull the fibres out, simply cut the fibre level to match that of the existing pile height with scissors.

My rug is bubbling, is this normal? (Encompasses bubbling, wrinkling or curling of edges).

Depending on the transportation, the rug can appear to have a bubbling, wrinkled or curled edge appearance when unwrapped from the packaging. This is not a manufacturing fault and will be rectified as it settles.

To accelerate the process of settling the rug, place the rug on the reverse side down in the warm sunlight for 2 to 3 hours.

How do I treat my cowhide, leather rug if it is bubbling? (Includes edge curling).

For cowhide or leather, try to roll the leather back in the opposite direction to the curl, and give it a squeeze or massage.

A misting of water can also help put a small controlled amount of moisture back into the leather. You can steam-iron (start on low heat) cowhide on either the leather or hair side with a cloth between the iron and the hide to help make it lie flat.

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Binding on a rug:

Often strands of binding will come loose on hand-made rugs, unless the binding is unravelling, it is not a fault and can therefore be fixed by cutting the strand off. Call us if you need any help.

What is a “high traffic area”?

High traffic areas are defined as an area that will see a lot of foot traffic, whether it’s from rubber-soled shoes, high-heels or sport shoes, children playing, whereby the pile of the rug can be damaged or crushed.

The location of the rug will also deem if it is in a high traffic environment. Proximity to bathrooms, for example, will expose the rug to chemicals and can cause areas of the rug to fade from the damage sustained.

To combat the potential damage a high traffic area can do to a rug, it is best to specify a low pile height in contract quality wool with very little or no art silk.

Will I need an anti-slip mat?

Where the floor under the rug is slightly slippery and will not hold the rug in place, for example due to being highly polished. It is recommended that you use an anti-slip mat or rubberised spray, which can be purchased at most hardware stores.

Do I have to make any considerations for furniture placement?

The big question often asked is, “should you have the rug in front of furniture or under the furniture?”. It is a very subjective decision to make as every project has different layout and application requirements. As a general guide, dining table rugs should have a 700mm minimum distance from the table edge to accommodate the chairs. When a rug is placed under furniture we recommend the rug lay no less than 200mm past the outside legs. If the rug is in front of the furniture, place the edge of the rug close to the furniture legs so that the person’s feet are on top of the rug while they are sitting.

Are there ever freight or production delays?

While over 95% of Artisan’s rugs are delivered on time occasionally we have delays that are out of our control. We can control the manufacturing process and we make extreme efforts to produce the rugs on time, but we cannot control delays by freight companies and customs.

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Can I have raised yarn?

Raised yarn is often specified for a unique finish to a hand-made rug. In normal every day domestic use the raised yarn performs well. In high traffic areas and commercial settings the raised yarn can be damaged by constant traffic and we would recommend avoiding this texture for this use.

I have allergies to wool, is there an alternative?

You can still have a beautiful rug as there are great alternatives for people with allergens. You can use luxurious acrylic to produce a rug with the same high quality visual results and feel. Contact us if you would like to discuss the alternative.

I would like to place my rugs on top of the carpet.

Carpet provides very little structural support for rugs, and therefore all rugs placed on carpet will appear to shuffle (wrinkle). This is not a fault of the rug, and cannot be avoided. This phenomenon is exaggerated when heavy items (ie. coffee tables) are placed on top of the rug.

The dog has wee’d on my rug, what should I do?

Animal urine is very acidic and must be removed ASAP. Immediate, blot the stain, removing as much liquid as possible. We recommend you call a professional cleaner to give you the best chance of minimising any damage.

Should I apply a chemical stain protection treatment to my rug?

There are many add on stain protection treatments in the market. Topical treatments work but are not needed on wool rugs as they have their own natural protection. Please note that topical treatments can be stripped off after cleaning and in some cases slightly discolour the rugs.

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yarn guide

wool

artsilk

belgium linen

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yarn guide

Wool is a luxurious renewable natural fibre with outstanding stain resistance qualities. We use only the finest NZ Wools available.

Guide: As with many different yarns you should treat the type of stain with the recommended solution and not treat the type of yarn. Always neutralise the cause of the stain first.

Art silk is a term used for a number of yarns that look and feel like silk. The most often used variety is viscose, which is made from refined timber pulp and features a beautiful natural lustre.

Guide: Art silk can be treated exactly the same as wool. Treat the type of stain with the recommended solutions by neutralising the cause of the stain before attempting to clean. Over time art silk fibres will sprout up after vacuuming, do not pull the fibres directly out. Trim the art silk with scissors.

Belgium Linen (linen) is a natural, renewable fibre extracted from the flax plant. Fine Belgium linen rugs are often featured in gorgeous natural colours.

Guide: As with many different yarns you should neutralise the cause of the stain with the recommended solution before attempting to clean.

Silk is the most delicate of all fibres. Silk organically fades with age to create a unique style.

Guide: Neutralise the stain first and then gently clean the silk.

Jute is a renewable vegetable fibre that comes from the stem of the Tossa Jute plant. The stunning natural colour variations give jute rugs an original organic finish and the naturally firm yarn wears very well.

Guide: Jute is a hard wearing and should be treated like any other fibre. Be careful to minimize the amount of water used and make sure the rug is dried well as Jute retains water.

Leather otherwise known as hide or cowhide, feature beautiful natural accents for any environment. Each hide is unique in design, different patterns and placement of the hide will lead to a one-of-kind rug.

Guide: Include your cowhide rug in your normal cleaning routine, simply vacuum with the power reduced and the vacuum head brush down. For common spills, immediately soak up as much liquid with a paper towel or sponge; to remove solid matter, use the blunt edge of a knife, scraping gently with the direction of the hair. Wipe with a damp (not wet) sponge).

Shag rugs get their name from their shaggy appearance. Shag rugs can come in many different forms of density and pile height.

Guide: Always use a direct suction vacuum & not a rotating head. Hang your shag rug over a rail and shake or hit to remove loose matter. Cut off loose yarn with scissors. Immediately blot up spilled liquids. Treat the type of stain with the appropriate stain treatment as per the stain guide. Always blot the stain with the cleaning liquid and do not rub, as the pile will be damaged. If a stain is not diminishing, contact a professional carpet cleaner.

Banana Silk comes from the fibre-bearing outer layer of the banana plant. The yarn has a silken appearance and is very soft to touch.

Guide: Include your Banana silk rug in your normal cleaning routine, simply vacuum. Clean spills immediately absorbing as much liquid with a cloth using a blotting motion.

Mohair yarn is taken from the fleece of Angora goats. It is both durable, resilient and is notable for its high lustre, softness and sheen.

Guide: Include the rug in your cleaning routine. As with many yarns, you should neutralise the cause of any stain with the recommended solution before attempting to clean.

silk

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jute

shag

yarn guide

Two-toned hand spun: when dying the yarn, the natural variations of the wool bleed through the dye to give a beautiful organic two-toned effect.

Stippling: is the visual effect of 2-3 tufts of different coloured yarn combined to give the design a stylish dimensional look.

Polished wool: to achieve a polished effect on hand-knotted wool rugs, our expert craftsmen double wash the rug until a luxurious sheen appears.

Antique wash: is a technique in the washing of a rug to strip some colour off the yarn to achieve a stylish antique or vintage finish.

Space dyed: this is a dying effect for thicker yarn which leaves the yarn colour unevenly dyed.

Strie: the strie effect or lined effect is achieved by twisting two hanks of yarn together before tufting or knotting. The different colours appear unevenly in a natural lined effect.

Rough cut: when finishing a hand-knotted rug the pile height is hand clipped to achieve a smooth finish. By reducing the clipping the pile is left with an organic lined, slightly rough cut appearance.

Carving:

Fine carving - is a very fine carved outline of the design.

Medium carving - slightly deeper hand-carving of the design.

Heavy carving - deep carving, visually highlighting the design

V-carve - carving on an angle into the design and away from the design. This carving makes the design appear to be raised.

two-toned hand spun

polished wool

rough-cut

techniques

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care and maintenance guide...

The initial setup and continued care and maintenance of your rug:

Sunlight

When the rug arrives home it is important to position the rug adequately in your room. The rug should be placed in an area away from direct sunlight and it is good practice to rotate the rug regularly especially if sunlight falls on one area of the room.

A rug, no matter the construction, will fade if exposed for prolonged periods of time in sunlight. Usually the fading will be slow, and when noticed, the rug can be irreversibly damaged. Sunlight in Australia is particularly harsh, even in the winter and can have a bleaching affect on rugs.

Furniture considerations and placement

If furniture is to be placed on a rug felted discs should be placed in between the rug and furniture legs.

Please be aware, that some heavy furniture, when positioned on a rug can pull the rug so that is will appear less square.

Vacuuming

Regular vacuuming of your rug will be one of the best maintenance options you will have in ensuring the longevity of your rug. To get the best results possible, the following steps have been detailed below:

• Vacuum your rug at least once a week

• For best result, ensure the vacuum has a new bag, alternatively if you are using a bag-less vacuuming system, empty out the device prior to vacuuming

• Remove all furniture and obstacles from the rug

• Roll the rug and vacuum the floor underneath

• Unroll and vacuum the rug with a normal vacuum head. Do not use a rotating head vacuum on your rug, as this can do irreparable damage to your rug

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When something is spilt on your rug.

In the event that an accidental spill has happened or food has been dropped on your hand crafted rug, time will be of the essence and there are some simple steps by which you can follow to avoid your rug being damaged further.

Liquid Spills

It is best to immediately and carefully blot the spill with a cloth or paper towel. The cloth or towel should be replaced regularly in order to extract as much liquid as possible. Do not rub the area as this will spread the split liquid, and the area impacted will become much larger to clean and could possibly damage the pile of your rug.

Please note, that pet soiling, especially that of cats, can damage a rug permanently if not extracted quickly and carefully.

Food or solids spillage

Food or solids which have been accidentally dropped on your rug will need to be removed carefully. Scoop up the food with the dull edge of a knife or spoon ensuring that you do not increase the area that will require attention. Blot any remaining evidence of the food spill to extracting as much as possible prior to cleaning the area further.

Crush marks

When the pile is crushed in transportation, this is not a fault and can be rectified by spraying a fine mist of water on the effected area. Vacuuming or massaging the yarn back to it’s normal state.

Please reference the section “Your Spot and Stain Guide” for specific details.

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Removing spots from carpet can be successful depending upon the spot and how long it has been on the carpet. At times multiple applications of the spot removal solution, or a second solution is required. Listed below is a general spot removal procedure. If the origin of the spot/stain is unknown, please begin with step 1.

If the origin of the spot is known begin at the appropriate step according to the table provided.

Things to remember

• Never use a circular motion to remove a spot/stain as this may destroy the texture of your rug.

• The final step should always be to rinse with clear water, blot dry and put a thickness of several white paper towels over the damp area. Put a suitable weighted object on the pad of towels to keep the pad in contact with the rug.

• Be certain to try, on an inconspicuous area of your carpet, any solutions you plan to use as it may affect colour or texture. Do not use if colour in the test area marks off on a white paper towel.

Useful cleaning item

• White paper towels or white terry towels.

• Hand dish washing detergent, which does not contain lanolin or bleach. To make a detergent solution, mix 1/4 teaspoon of a hand dish washing detergent with a cup of water.

• Spray bottle for applying detergents and special solutions.

• Household ammonia solution, which is 1 tablespoon of clear household ammonia to 1/2 cup of water.

• Isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

• 3% hydrogen peroxide.

• White vinegar solution made up of 1/3 cup of white vinegar, 2/3 cup of water.

• Good quality carpet spotters available at carpet stores and other outlets.

Please follow the steps that correlate to the table information.

Step 1: Unknown and greasy spots.

Remove as much of the foreign material as possible by blotting with a white paper towel or scraping with a dull knife. Apply isopropyl-rubbing alcohol to a clean white cloth, white paper towel or cotton ball. If the spot extends deep into the pile use a blotting motion until the spot is removed or no colour

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spot and stain guide...

is transferred to the cloth. Do not allow the alcohol to penetrate into the backing, as this will destroy the hand -tuft (latex bond). If the spot/stain is on the surface only, blot in one direction at a time. Never use a circular motion to remove spot as this may destroy the texture. Stop if spot is removed. If not, go to step 3.

Step 2: Water based spots.

Blot up as much of the spill as is possible. A wet vacuum is useful if a large quantity of liquid was spilled. If the spot/stain has dried, saturate the tufts in the affected area with tap water (do not over wet). Allow remaining for about 1 minute and blot. If the spot/stain is being removed using water, continue until the spot is completely removed. Blot dry and apply the paper towels and weight. If it is not completely removed go to step 3.

Step 3:

Remove as much of the foreign material as possible by blotting with a white paper towel or scraping with a dull knife. Apply a small quantity of detergent solution to the spot. Use a blotting motion to work the detergent into the affected area. If spot/stain is being removed continue applying detergent and blotting with a white paper towel until spot is removed. Rinse with tap water using a spray bottle, blot to remove excess moisture, spray lightly with water, do not blot this time; apply pad of paper towels and brick and allow drying. If there is still some stain on the carpet and blotting is not removing it, then moisten the tufts in the stained area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Let stand for one (1) hour. Blot and repeat until carpet is stain free. Light will cause peroxide to change back to water so no rinsing is necessary. Apply pad of paper towels and weight down with brick.

A) For blood, ketchup (tomato sauce), cheese, chocolate, cough syrup, mixed drinks, soft drinks, soy sauce, starch, toothpaste, water colour and white glue

Blot with white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible then neutralize with an ammonia solution. Saturate spot using spray bottle. Do not wet backing. Blot with a white paper towel to remove excess moisture. After neutralizing begin with step 3 of general procedure. All solutions for removing blood must be cool.

B) For beer; coffee, perfume, tea and wine

Blot with a white paper towel to remove as much of the stain as possible then neutralize with the white vinegar solution. Saturate spot, using a spray bottle and blot to remove excess moisture. After neutralising go to step 3 of general procedure.

C) Egg, excrement, urine and vomit

Remove as much of the stain as possible by using a spoon or dull knife. Blot up as much of

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spot and stain guide

the stain as possible, then neutralise by spraying the affected area with the ammonia solution. Care should be taken to remove all protein matter. Blot to remove excess moisture and go to step 3 of general procedure.

D) Candle wax or other types of wax

Spread brown paper (such as grocery bag) or a terry cloth towel over the area and iron with the setting on “warm.” The wax will be absorbed into the paper or towel. Remove any traces with alcohol or dry cleaning fluid.

E) Chewing gum

Freeze the gum using an ice cube. Shatter the frozen gum with a knife handle and vacuum. Some citrus-based products (check the product to ensure that it does not bleach) have been demonstrated to break down the stickiness of gum so that it can be removed. We suggest that you test the product on an inconspicuous area prior to treating the affected area.

F) Mud

Allow mud to dry completely. Shatter the dried mud with the handle of a knife and vacuum. Go to step 3 of general procedure.

G) Rust

Saturate spot with lemon juice, using a spray bottle, and allow to remain for 5 minutes. Go to step 3 of general procedure to remove lemon juice. If this does not work, and it may not, call a professional. Most rust removers contain a very strong acid and are, therefore, not recommended for residential use.

H) Nail Polish

Remove as much of the nail polish as possible using a spoon or dull knife. Apply a nonoily nail polish remover to a clean white cloth and gently rub (in only one direction at a time) or blot the spot. Continue until spot is removed. Do not allow nail polish remover to get to the latex backing. Go to step 3 to remove nail polish remover.

I) Soot, graphite, copier material

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Vacuum using crevice tool of vacuum cleaner to remove the soot. If all, or most, of the soot has not been removed, call a professional cleaner. If vacuuming has removed all particles go to step 1 of general procedure to remove any traces.

• Stains That Can’t Be Removed

Acid toilet bowl cleaners, acne medication, alkaline drain cleaners, chlorinated bleaches, hair dyes, iodine, insecticides, mustard with tumeric, plant fertilizers and stains of this nature cannot be removed as they have permanently altered the carpet’s colour.

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To Remove... Use Steps

Asphalt 1 &3

Beer B & 3

Berries 2 & 3

Blood A & 3

Butter 1 & 3

Calamine Lotion 1 & 3

Candle Wax D

Cheese A & 3

Chewing Gum E

Chocolate 2

Coffee A & 3

Cola B & 3

Cordial A & 3

Cough Syrup A & 3

Crayon 1 & 3

Dirt F & 3

Egg C & 3

Excrement C & 3

Fruit Juice 2 & 3

Furniture Polish 1 & 3

Graphite/Toner I & 1

Gravy 1 & 3

Grease 1 & 3

Hand Lotion 1 & 3

Household Cement 3

Ice-cream 1 & 3

Ink 1 & 3

Ketchup/tomato sauce A & 3

Lacquer 1 & 3

Make-up 1 & 3

To Remove... Use Steps

Mayonnaise 1 & 3

Milk 1 & 3

Mixed Drinks A & 3

Mud F & 3

Nail Polish H & 3

Oil 1 & 3

Paint, Latex 1 & 3

Paint, Oil 1 & 3

Perfume B & 3

Play Dough 1 & 3

PVA Glue A & 3

Rubber Cement 1 & 3

Rust G & 3

Salad Oil Dressing 1 & 3

Sauces 1 & 3

Shoe Polish 1 & 3

Shortening 1 & 3

Soft Drink A & 3

Soot I & 1

Soy Sauce A & 3

Starch A & 3

Sweets 3

Tar 1 & 3

Tea B & 3

Toothpaste A & 3

Urine C & 3

Vaseline 1 & 3

Vomit C & 3

Watercolours A & 3

Wine B & 3

Look through the table information and identify the stain. Make a note of the steps and reference the cleaning process.

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our commercial warranty

10 Year Commercial Structural Warranty

Artisan warrants our commercially graded rugs used in a normal commercial situation against

structural defect for a period of 10 years from the date purchased.

Artisan reserves the right to fix any defects before a replacement is deemed appropriate.

What is a structural defect?

• the backing is delaminating (peeling off)

• the binding is unravelling (not just fraying)

• the pile is falling out in clumps of yarn without pulling

• the rug is falling apart

Exclusions: This warranty does not apply to rugs that have been damaged by incorrect cleaning,

chemical damage and flooding or extreme inappropriate usage of the rug.

Warranty Depreciation Schedule:

10 Year Warranty

Years 1 to 3: .................................100%

Years 4 to 5: .................................70%

Years 6 to 7: .................................40%

Years 8 to 9: .................................20%

Year 10: ........................................10%

10 Year Domestic Structural Warranty

Artisan stands by our valued customers and will happily replace or repair any domestic area rug that

has a structural defect within 10 years of purchasing a “The Rug Establishment” rug.

What is a structural defect?

• the backing is delaminating (peeling off)

• the binding is unravelling (not just fraying)

• the pile is falling out in clumps of yarn without pulling

• the rug is falling apart

Exclusions: This warranty does not apply to rugs that have been damaged by incorrect cleaning,

chemical damage and flooding or extreme inappropriate usage of the rug.

Warranty Depreciation Schedule:

10 Year Warranty

Years 1 to 3: .................................100%

Years 4 to 5: ................................. 70%

Years 6 to 7: ................................. 40%

Years 8 to 9: ................................. 20%

Year 10: ........................................ 10%

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our domestic warranty

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Spirit

www.artisancollective.co.nz | 0508 artisan

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