shootist

The Home Schooled Shootist

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The Home Schooled Shootist:

Training to Fight With a Carbine

by

Joe Nobody

Copyright © 2012-2013

Kemah Bay Marketing LLC.

All rights reserved.

Edited by:

E. T. Ivester

Contributors:

D. Hall

D. Allen

www.holdingyourground.com

www.prepperpress.com


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Other Books by Joe Nobody:

- Holding Your Ground: Preparing for Defense if it All Falls Apart

- The TEOTWAWKI Tuxedo: Formal Survival Attire

- Without Rule of Law: Advanced Skill to Help You Survive

- Holding Their Own: A Story of Survival

- Holding Their Own II: The Independents


Dedication

Credit goes to my mother for my love of firearms as well as many of my skills. Mother Nobody

was/is a skilled shooter with both sidearm and shoulder-fired weapons. Some of my earliest

childhood memories are of my mom and me taking turns with a single shot .22 Marlin bolt

action rifle, firing at tin cans and tennis balls. Just like milk and ice cream, she always made sure

we had a box of shells around the house. When I announced that I wanted a shotgun for

Christmas, at an age that would shock many parents today, she made sure Santa delivered.

I remember watching her compete in trap events and being proud that my Mom could outshoot

most of the folks there, including the men. As a teenager, when my buddies came over to shoot

pistols, she took the time to come out and routinely embarrass us all.

What was more important than the acceptance of firearms was the overall attitude she instilled

from an early age. Obviously, safety was a priority, but beyond that she stressed practice,

patience, and the perspective of humility.

Introduction

This book is intended to provide intermediate to advanced concepts, tools, and techniques for

anyone who wants to improve their fighting skills with a carbine. Shootist is primarily for

individuals who wish to develop advanced capabilities in order to dominate practically any

gunfight. It assumes the reader has prior training or experience and has mastered rudimentary

skills, such as how to clear a jammed weapon, basic shooting positions, and other fundamental

knowledge.

The American tradition of excellence with shoulder-fired weapons dates back hundreds of years.

A rugged, free, and often unsettled land provided strong motivational factors. Throughout

history, those who didn’t develop exceptional skills with a weapon often didn’t survive. While

most early Americans used their shooting abilities to put food on the table or defend their

families, there were times when our very existence as a country depended on a population well-

versed at putting lead on target.

Today, more Americans than ever are exercising their 2nd Amendment right by purchasing

firearms. Like many others, this Joe Nobody believes strongly in a free society’s right to bear

arms. What most of my countrymen don’t realize is how technology and tactics have impacted

the use of these weapons. Long gone are the days when marksmanship and bravery were

enough. In just the last 10 years, the technology available to the combat shooter has advanced


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so much that the tactics and capabilities of even 20 years ago are now obsolete. Practically

every single component of the individual light fighter’s equipment has seen rapid advancements

all aimed at one single goal – a more effective, efficient gunfighter.

Both the M16 and AK47 battle rifles have exceeded 50 years of service and are still the primary

weapons found on most battlefields today. Outside of the physical appearance of the weapons,

very little remains the same internally. The materials, machining specifications, feed ramp

design, trigger modifications and numerous other changes have improved those original designs.

Even ammunition has seen a wave of design improvements over the last few years. Imagine

telling a unit armorer in 1966 that one day we would have 77 grain bullets for the M16. In

addition, tell him these rounds will have ballistic performance similar to the .308 sniper rifles

employed at the time. He would have thought you were crazy. The material sciences, computer

modeling and manufacturing processes being applied to ammunition are game changers.

Technology is being utilized for practically every aspect of performance. Today, Doppler radar

systems are used to gather empirical ballistic data and have proven traditional mathematical

models to be inaccurate.

The list of improvements for the modern day shooter goes on and on. Practically every piece of

kit has been upgraded, improved, or didn’t even exist 10 years ago. Take the holographic

weapon’s sight as an example. This device reduces target acquisition time significantly. It

shortens the learning curve for recruits and increases the effectiveness of experienced soldiers.

Accessories of this type have, in dozens of small ways, modified small unit tactics being used all

over the world.

Even the lowly sling has seen improvement. Not only have we moved the rifle around to the

front of the shooter, we have allowed him to maneuver faster and cleaner than ever before. The

modern sling allows the operator to switch from strong to weak side as fast as he can move the

rifle from one shoulder to the other.

Today, the well-equipped threat can put more rounds on target in less time than ever before.

The antagonist can stay in the fight longer, move faster, and project power at longer distances.

Take body armor as another example. Compared to the flak jackets of old, modern plates are

lighter, breathe better, cover more of the body, and can withstand far greater punishment. Our

boots are lighter, as is our basic clothing. We can carry more water on our backs in comfort than

the unbalanced canteens allowed us just a few years ago.


Night fighting capabilities have improved drastically as well. Technology has increased the

effectiveness of low light operations to the point where they are equal to, or closely

approaching that of daylight levels.

Training and mindset for most civilians has not kept pace with these advancements. Practically

any citizen can now acquire advanced weapons and equipment but have no concept as how to

train or utilize the capabilities afforded. It seems everything we buy nowadays is a miracle of

engineering. Consider: how many of us underutilize the features of our computers because we

simply don’t take the time to master our machines?

With so many opportunities to expand our horizons, why would any common person want or

need to learn the skills outlined in this text? You need venture no further than your daily

worldwide news source for the answer to that question. Violence is trending alongside the

upward curve of lethality, enabled by technology. No doubt there are folks loose in civilized

societies who have spent the time to do their homework and hone their skills.

The killing spree in Norway during 2011 resulted in over 300 casualties. The criminal, Anders

Behring Breivik, used a Ruger Mini-14 rifle with ten 30 round magazines of .223 ammunition as

his primary weapon. While many of the injuries and eight of the deaths were due to a bomb, the

vast majority of fatalities were due to a shooting spree with the Ruger.

Can you imagine the results if Charles Whitman had been equipped with modern capabilities

when he opened fire from the Texas University Bell Tower on August 1st, 1966? His M1 Carbine

and 6mm bolt action rifle (with 4x scope) would be considered anemic by today’s standards.

Had Whitman been equipped with an auto-loading sniper rifle, laser range finder, body armor

and high-powered optic, he could have inflicted far greater damage and been more difficult to

stop.

As this book was being edited, the horrific events at Aurora, Colorado occurred. Over 70 people

were killed or injured by a lone, disturbed gunman. The suspect (as of this writing) is reported to

have been equipped with body armor, tear gas, AR15, shotgun and pistol(s). The shooter was

reported to have moved quickly through the theater and even when apprehended, still had

considerable ammunition available. According to some news reports, his primary weapon (the

AR15) jammed. One can only speculate on the level of carnage if the gunman had possessed the

skill to clear that weapon.

The list of examples could go on and on. Tragedies at Columbine, Fort Hood and the University

of Virginia are all events where the level of violence escalated due to the capabilities of the

weapons used. As close as modern day Mexico, we commonly see far more extreme instances.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anders_Behring_Breivik

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anders_Behring_Breivik


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Table of Contents

Chapter 1 How to use this book ................................................................. 14

Items used to build the targets in this book: ..................................................... 15

Nice to have ......................................................................................................................................... 17

The Loop............................................................................................................. 17

Natural Point of Aim .......................................................................................... 20

Minute of Angle ................................................................................................. 21

Magazine or Clip ................................................................................................ 22

Chapter 2 Evaluation ................................................................................. 24

Hanging Targets ................................................................................................. 26

Measuring Improvement ................................................................................... 28

Evaluation Drills ................................................................................................. 29

Supported Mag Dump (Drill # 1) .......................................................................................................... 29

Supported Mag Dump with Reload (Drill # 2) ...................................................................................... 29

Offhand Mag Dump (Drill #3)............................................................................................................... 30

Offhand Mag Dump with Reload (Drill # 4) .......................................................................................... 30

Weak to Strong: 10 Minimum – Offhand (Drill #5) .............................................................................. 30

Pistol Offhand – Mag Dump (Drill #6) .................................................................................................. 30

Rifle Zip Line - 25 Meters (Drill #7) ...................................................................................................... 31

Pistol Zip Line - 15 Meters (Drill #8) ..................................................................................................... 36

Flying Saucers (Drill #9) ........................................................................................................................ 36

Numbers Game: Rifle (Drill #10) .......................................................................................................... 39

Numbers Game: Pistol (Drill #11) ........................................................................................................ 41

Chapter 3 Evaluation Summary .................................................................. 42

Supported Mag Dump (#1) ................................................................................ 42

Supported Mag Dump with Reload (#2) ............................................................ 43


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Offhand Mag Dump (#3) .................................................................................... 44

Offhand Mag Dump with Reload (#4) ................................................................ 45

Weak to Strong: 10 Minimum – Offhand (#5) ................................................... 46

Pistol Offhand – Mag Dump (#6) ....................................................................... 47

Rifle Zip Line - 25 Meters (#7) ............................................................................ 47

Pistol Zip Line - 15 Meters (#8) .......................................................................... 50

Flying Saucers (#9) ............................................................................................. 50

Numbers Game: Rifle (#10) ................................................................................ 51

Numbers Game: Pistol (#11) .............................................................................. 52

Chapter 4 Improvement ............................................................................ 53

Equipment Check ............................................................................................... 53

Stance ................................................................................................................. 57

Rifle Fulcrum ...................................................................................................... 63

Rifle Side Grip ..................................................................................................... 65

Sight Picture ....................................................................................................... 66

Pulling the Trigger .............................................................................................. 69

Digit Double-Taps ............................................................................................... 70

Zeroing Mid-range Rifles .................................................................................... 70

Reloads – Tactical and Strategic ........................................................................ 74

Chapter 5 Off-range Trigger Time ............................................................... 79

Dry Firing ............................................................................................................ 80

The Rifle Dance .................................................................................................. 83


Weight Training .................................................................................................. 84

Laser Pointers ..................................................................................................... 86

Chapter 6 Fixed Range Trigger Time ........................................................... 89

The Numbers Game ........................................................................................... 89

The Numbers Game – Variants and Deviations ................................................................................... 91

Chapter 7 Shooting and Cover.................................................................... 92

The Barrier ......................................................................................................... 92

Shooting Sideways ............................................................................................. 97

The Dreaded Corner ........................................................................................... 98

Chapter 8 Moving Targets ........................................................................ 101

Zip Line - Deviations and Stress ......................................................................................................... 101

The Radical Robot ............................................................................................ 102

The Radical Robot - Deviations and Stress ......................................................................................... 105

Flying Saucers ................................................................................................... 105

Flying Saucers – Deviation and Stress ................................................................................................ 105

Chapter 9 Waterboarding ........................................................................ 107

Chapter 10 Additional Stressors ............................................................... 112

Chapter 11 Other Training Methods and Targets ...................................... 115

Chapter 12 Accuracy and Marksmanship ................................................. 117

The System ....................................................................................................... 120

Equipment Preparations .................................................................................. 120

Position ............................................................................................................ 125

Point of Aim ..................................................................................................... 127

Establishing the Ballistic Coefficient ................................................................ 131


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What is the BC? .................................................................................................................................. 131

Step 1: Baseline BC............................................................................................................................. 133

Step 2: Weapon’s Velocity ................................................................................................................. 134

Step 3: Establishing the BC at Zero .................................................................................................... 135

Step 4: BC at Shot............................................................................................................................... 140

Step 5: Angle ...................................................................................................................................... 140

Step 6: Distance ................................................................................................................................. 144

Step 7: Wind....................................................................................................................................... 150

Click, Click, Click ............................................................................................... 156

Control ............................................................................................................. 157

Trigger .............................................................................................................. 159

Zeroing Mid-Range Rifles ................................................................................. 159

Summary on Distance to Zero............................................................................................................ 163

Level Playing Field ............................................................................................ 163

Accuracy versus Consistency ........................................................................... 165

Conditions at Zero ............................................................................................ 165

Chapter 13 DOPERS ................................................................................. 166

DOPE Hoarding ................................................................................................. 169

Chapter 14 Ballistics and Reloading ......................................................... 172

Overview .......................................................................................................... 172

Reloading and the Shootist .............................................................................. 173

Establishing Requirements ............................................................................... 175

Case Prep ......................................................................................................... 178

Primer and Charge ........................................................................................... 181


Bullet Seating and Inspection .......................................................................... 185

Discovery and Verification ............................................................................... 188

Uncle Joe’s Favorite Brews .............................................................................. 190

Bonus Section The Nutritional Advantage ........................................ 193

Forward by Joe Nobody .......................................................................... 193

Why your firearm skills start with what you eat .............................................. 196

Neurotoxic substances in your food, medicine and personal care products ..................................... 196

Things that damage your brain ........................................................................ 197

Processed food................................................................................................................................... 198

The Yeast Extract Deception .............................................................................................................. 198

Medications ....................................................................................................................................... 199

Why Mercury Eats Your Brain ............................................................................................................ 200

How to protect yourself from vaccines .............................................................................................. 201

Psychiatric drugs ................................................................................................................................ 201

Psych drugs cause diabetes ............................................................................................................... 202

Statin drugs ........................................................................................................................................ 202

Statin drugs nearly kill a Tucson police captain ................................................................................. 203

FDA admits statin drugs are dangerous ............................................................................................. 204

Personal care products .................................................................................... 205

Lawn Chemicals Kill Your Brain Big Time ........................................................................................... 205

Other Sources of Toxicity ................................................................................................................... 206

Neuro-supportive Substances .......................................................................... 207

Why Macho Men are Growing Infertile ........................................................... 208

Neuro-supportive Supplements ....................................................................... 209

Astaxanthin ........................................................................................................................................ 210

Fish oils............................................................................................................................................... 211


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Vitamin D3 ......................................................................................................................................... 212

The Power of Combination ................................................................................................................ 213

Neuro-supportive Foods & Superfoods ........................................................... 214

My Best-kept Super Performance Secret......................................................... 215

Conclusion ........................................................................................................ 217

About the Contributor ....................................................................................................................... 218

Joe’s Summary ................................................................................................. 220


Chapter 1

How to use this book

This work is divided into five basic sections:

1. Evaluation (Chapters 1 – 3)

2. Improvement (Chapters 4 – 11)

3. Advanced Concepts and Drills (Chapter 11)

4. Accuracy and Marksmanship (Chapter 12 -13)

5. Ballistics and Reloading (Chapter 14)

The first few chapters begin with the operator executing a series of drills in order to quantify

current skill levels. The section devoted to Evaluation contains several chapters describing how

the results of the drills can be used to evaluate and improve an individual’s capabilities. At the

beginning of each assessment exercise, you will find the following details:

The materials checklist contains all of the required items to build or create the exercise.

Instructions show how to create and execute the exercise.

The intended benefit of the exercise is explained.

Typical results are outlined.

The purpose of the evaluation is twofold. First, it will provide a baseline of measurement so you

can judge what is working for you and what is not. Secondly, it helps with focusing your training

on the areas where you need the most improvement. One of my favorite mottos is:

How can you improve if you don’t measure?

Section II, Improvement, contains information, concepts and methods to help you get better.

While repetition and practice will result in gains, there are also critical factors involved that have

nothing to do with eye-hand coordination or muscle memory.

We all, over time, allow bad habits to creep into our daily routines, so the information here is

intended to help readers identify fundamentals which may have gone awry. This section will also

be the most controversial for many readers. Combat shooting is different than any other

category of firearms usage. You will find processes, suggestions, and techniques here that most

people have never considered before.


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Section III, Advanced Concepts and Drills, takes things to an extreme level. I included this section

for those who want to reach the ultimate level of self-taught training. The drills included in this

section are not for everyone and should be executed with extreme caution.

In order to execute the drills, exercises and instruction contained within, you will need the items

listed in the following section.

Items used to build the targets in this book:

A place to shoot. This point is critical in that most of the exercises contained in this book

cannot be performed at a public gun range. Where applicable, drills that can be

accomplished at commercial ranges have been included, but to really improve your

combat shooting skills, you need more flexibility than the typical public range will allow.

A magazine-fed long gun (rifle) or carbine weapon. This will be referred to as the

primary weapon.

A pistol. This will be referred to as the secondary weapon.

Rope, twine, or cord. Between 75 and 100 feet should be enough. Para-cord (550-cord)

is used in most examples.

A small pulley. These can be purchased at most home improvement stores (in the chain

and rope section) for less than $3. Look for models used for outdoor clotheslines.

A supply of balloons. Regular old birthday party balloons will do just fine. A large bag

should be less than $1. If your wife is mad at you because you spend too much on

firearms, balloons that say “Happy Anniversary” may enhance your training experience…

or at minimum promote marital bliss.

Three or more snap caps or dummy rounds for both your primary and secondary

weapon. Most gun stores sell these in the various calibers needed for the exercises.

A radio-controlled toy vehicle, preferably the largest unit you can afford within reason.

Typically, $50 or less investment will provide for an adequately-sized target. The toy

should have a radio range of 100 meters.

A coat hanger or similar size stiff wire.

A supply of Frisbees. I have found that dollar stores are a good source of these cheap

throwing targets.

A supply of regular typing paper (8.5x11), white. The size closely simulates center mass

targets. If you don’t know what the term “center mass” means, hold a piece of typing

paper up to your chest. Congratulations - you just located “center mass.”

A large, black marker. This will be used to draw on targets and denote hits.


Large paper binders or clothespins. Normally found in office supply stores, a couple of

dollars purchases enough. Clothespins are inexpensive, ingenious contraptions used to

secure paper targets. Have 20-30 of these as they are often obliterated by an errant

bullet.

An ankle weight, baseball bat swing weight, or other flexible weight that can be

attached to your rifle barrel. I purchased a soft model at a sporting goods store for less

than $5. It wraps around the barrel of the rifle and attaches with velcro. Anything

weighing between 2-4 lbs. that can be securely attached to your primary weapon barrel

will suffice. Ankle weights are another common option.

A stopwatch or timer. While a dedicated shooting timer (shown below) would be best,

these cost some money ($130 or so). These devices do offer some advantages in that

they can be operated if training by yourself, have some advanced functions (measuring

time between shots, etc.) and store historical performance data. If the cost is

prohibitive, you can use any old stopwatch or kitchen timer and still realize benefits.

Some smart phones have free shooting timers that can be downloaded. I have found

these programs to be of limited use on my model of phone, but others report they work

well.


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A tape recorder (or the voice recorder on your cell phone), and an earplug. The earplug

should be of sufficient fit to replace one side of your hearing protection or fit inside of

your headphones if that is your preferred method of protection. The device should

generate enough volume to be heard while shooting.

A notepad and paper for recording your results and keeping track of your progress.

Sections below contains pre-printed score cards and DOPE logs.

A roll of duct tape.

Nice to have

A shooting buddy. While every reasonable attempt has been made to design the

included training drills and exercises for solo execution, many of them are more

productive if performed with a partner.

A significant length of garden hose and miscellaneous sprinkler heads.

The Loop

Much has been written regarding the topic of OODA loops. The acronym stands for Observe

Orient Decide Act. Attributed to United States Air Force Colonel John Boyd (January 23, 1927 –

March 9, 1997), the OODA loop is considered by many to be a standard in military, sports, and

business training processes. Colonel Boyd was a fighter pilot whose work eventually pointed his

distinguished career into the realm of military strategy. He is considered to be one of the

primary architects of the Coalition’s successful strategies during the first Gulf War.


Early on, Colonel Boyd believed that the training process for fighter pilots would benefit if there

were a simple description of the mental steps executed during dogfighting. If students and

instructors all spoke the same language, the process of education and knowledge transfer would

be more effective and efficient.

His concepts were so profound that they were quickly applied (by military standards) to more

than just aerial combat. Today, his work is broadly accepted by strategists from large

corporations to professional sports teams and is considered doctrine by many military

organizations worldwide.

So what does this have to do with being a Shootist? Well, just like Colonel Boyd and the fighter

pilots, our training process will be enhanced if operators and instructors use the same terms and

definitions. Whether you comprehend it or not, you are executing an OODA loop every time you

engage a target. Some experienced operators might think of a gunfighting OODA loop more akin

to the diagram (Figure 1.3) below:


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In reality, you will execute an OODA loop dozens, if not hundreds, of times for each shot in a

gunfight. The mere act of determining where to take cover after being fired upon could be

twenty or more cycles of the loop.

The Shootist works hard to reduce the number of cycles. All of the practice, techniques,

equipment and tactics have one simple goal:

Process fewer OODA loops than the threat


Sound simple? It should be, but like so many activities in life, it doesn’t turn out that way. Many

of my clients get caught up in endless mind games that cloud the issue and produce negative

results. Even simple decisions regarding equipment can impact the OODA count.

Every training method (or lack thereof) impacts the number of cycles. Every tactical skill (or lack

thereof) can make the difference between your putting lead on target first – or coming in 2nd

place during an encounter. Second place is not where you want to be when high velocity lead is

flying through the air.

This point is worth driving home for several reasons. As you progress through this book or any

other type of training, you will benefit the most from keeping your loop count in the forefront.

As you go to the gun show to browse for equipment, always be thinking – Will this piece of

equipment enable me to process OODA faster, better or fewer times?

An in-depth discussion on reaction times, instinct, eye-hand coordination, and muscle memory

is worthy and definitely a factor in survivability on the battlefield. For the purposes of this

writing, all of these issues are secondary. It is only common sense that if you can’t hit the broad

side of a large, red barn, having the fastest reaction time won’t do you a bit of good. On the

other hand, you can be the best shot on the battlefield, but if it takes you an hour to pull the

trigger, you will most likely lose.

While this is not a book on equipment, the topic cannot be ignored. Though the latest gizmos do

not guarantee an advantage, using a muzzle loader during a modern day gunfight is probably

not the best idea either. On the other hand, the latest greatest thing-ah-mah-bob is not always a

wise choice. Everything is a compromise. An example of this decision process would be my

personal secondary weapon. I like an old-fashioned 1911 sidearm. Now, to those who know

pistols, my choice would not seem logical. There are many battle-proven, high capacity weapons

available. Why would I choose a pistol that only holds 7-10 rounds when there are dozens of

excellent choices that would increase that capacity? I hope by the end of this book you will at

least understand my logic even though you may disagree with my choice.

Natural Point of Aim

Throughout this work, you will see the phrase Natural Point of Aim, or NPA referenced several

times. For snipers, this can be described as a position (or stance) where the weapon is naturally

pointed at the target with as little support from the shooter’s body as possible.


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Try taking aim at a target and then removing your weak hand from the weapon. How much did

the firearm move? Do the same exercise with the strong hand – how much did the point of aim

change? Does adjusting your stance (normally the feet and angle of the body) impact how much

the weapon moves?

To further demonstrate impact of NPA, take your normal firing stance and twist (at the hips) as

far right or left as your body allows, and then remove either hand. Most people’s aim will

change considerably more as compared to when the body is in a normal, straight-on position.

Endurance and stability are the reasons why NPA is so important. Your endurance and the

stability of aim will be greatly reduced if you are fighting with gravity more than necessary. It is

also a fact that pulling the trigger from a strong NPA position will result in less barrel movement

than if the weapon is being supported artificially by muscle and bone.

NPA is one of several key factors to becoming a Shootist and the subject is worthy of a

dedicated book on its own. Once the basics are mastered here, I would encourage you to

investigate NPA further.

Minute of Angle

Another common term used by shooters of all levels is Minute of Angle or MOA. This term

references an area or space in the dimensions of height and width. When dealing with

practically any long gun, you will see discussion revolving around MOA, and this book is no

exception. Most shooters use a rounded value of:

1 MOA = 1 inch at 100 yards

Mathematically, 1 MOA equals 1.047 inches at 100 yards, but practically everyone rounds down.

MOA in rifle-speak has become quite the popular term in recent years as everyone seems to

own a “sub-MOA” rifle of one kind or another. This point of bravado indicates that the weapon

is capable of grouping shots in a one inch or less diameter area at 100 yards.

As the distance to the target increases, so does the referenced area of MOA:

Distance to Target Area of 1 MOA

100 yards 1 inch (rounded)


500 yards 5 inches (rounded) 1,000 yards 10 inches (rounded)

So if we have a 1 MOA rifle that groups shots within 1 inch at 100 yards, the same rifle should

group shots within 10 inches at 1,000 yards.

Magazine or Clip

The proper term for the container of bullets that feeds the weapon is magazine. This was finally

decided just a few decades ago by some little known organization and for what purpose – I’m

really not sure, nor do I care. What amazes me is the number of people out there who do care.

According to the National Rifle Association, a “clip” is used to feed a magazine. A magazine is

used to feed a weapon. On AR15’s and AK’s, the technically correct term is “removable box

magazine.” This is just silly. I’ve never heard of a “banana magazine.” The area on a ship used to

store gunpowder is called a “powder magazine,” but directly feeds no gun. What about the

speed loader used on some revolvers – a moon, or half-moon magazine? I have some

“magazines” purchased at a recent gun show for my son’s .22 plinker. They are labeled “Marlin

Rifle Clips” on the package. According to some people, the guys at Marlin should be hung from

the yardarms for committing such an egregious sin.

Go to Remington’s webpage and look at their “clips.” Surely to god they know a little something

about weapons.

In reality, I include this term to make another point:

Don’t be an elitist

In my day, the difference between a magazine and a clip depended on capacity. Others have

informed me that they were taught that a pistol used a clip while a rifle used a magazine. I run

into so many people who think their vocabulary of the latest, greatest terminology bolsters their

position as a shooter, or makes them more of a “professional.”

You will find this vanity throughout the shooting world. I’ve been guilty as well. Some time ago, I

had the chance to shoot with a few members of Group Delta. Now for those who aren’t familiar

with the Special Forces community, Group Delta is in the upper echelons of lethality. These

gentlemen can operate with a carbine. As I watched these professionals run through various

drills, I found it odd that they broke several rules I had been preaching for years. An example


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was my belief that the strong side arm should be kept close to the body. I watched guys who

were very high speed, low drag individuals randomly throw that “chicken wing” out there

whenever it suited them. No granite jawed DI popped out of the ground and belittled them.

They have one basic measurement in regards to shooting – get lead on the target before the

target gets lead on you. Their results are difficult to argue with.

Knowledge of firearms and terminology is good, and many gents with advanced skills spend

considerable time researching and learning about the topic. This is a positive attribute. What

you should avoid is thinking any learned tactic, term, method or process is the best way or the

only way. Eventually, you will be proven wrong by someone with more refined skills and

experience.

I have been doing this for so long and have been put in my place so many times, I’ve lost count.

There is always someone faster, better or sporting a new technique that blows traditional

wisdom right out of the water.

My advice to the reader is to be aggressive in mind, body and spirit, but remain humble and

absorbent. If you approach a class, range session, or training with the attitude of, “I’m just a Joe

Nobody,” you will be better off in the long run and might learn something in the process.


Chapter 2

Evaluation

It is difficult to duplicate the exact range and circumstances across multiple training sessions and

different locations. The targets and drills set up on Monday may be slightly different on

Thursday. On a few of the exercises that follow, a stiff breeze can greatly increase the difficulty.

With that fact in mind, you should take your evaluation results with a small grain of salt.

If you interpret the results too literally, you may become frustrated and that state of mind won’t

benefit the average shooter.

Before beginning the evaluation drills, consider this philosophy regarding skills with a firearm.

Look at overall expertise and capabilities with weapons as a triangle:

Anyone willing to invest the time, energy and expense should expect to achieve a high level of

expertise in any two of the three sides.

Speed includes target acquisition and placing multiple hits onto multiple threats at reasonable

combat distances.

Accuracy is long-range striking capability against moving targets and varying angles.


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Utility is maneuver (or mobility), application and longevity in any environment or terrain.

I’ve never met, nor heard of anyone who could excel in all three without exchanging equipment.

I don’t believe it possible. If it were, every soldier would be a Special Forces operator, sniper,

and expert infantryman all rolled into one.

This tenet is an important part of anyone’s mindset while training. For example:

To be a sniper, your firearms training should focus on accuracy and utility.

A police officer who primarily uses a sidearm in the line of duty would desire speed and

accuracy.

The typical infantryman concentrates on speed and utility.

This is not to say that an infantryman can’t put lead on target. The typical infantry qualification

is considered combat accurate. After achieving a certain baseline level of accuracy, most

infantry units focus the majority of their training time on utility and speed.

Consider the example of police officers. With a sidearm, they need to be accurate to avoid

collateral damage. They spend a lot of training cycles developing the skills to acquire targets

quickly. Their utility however, is limited. They cannot assault a heavily-fortified drug den – that’s

why SWAT teams were developed.

Even the best sniper, who perhaps came up through the infantry ranks, cannot dominate in all

three disciplines without equipment changes. The sniping optic is set up for long-range accuracy,

not close quarters battle. Even the latest auto-loading sniper rifles would become ammunition-

starved in a prolonged gunfight as compared to a modern, purpose-dedicated battle rifle. The

extra equipment carried for long-distance shooting would weigh an individual down and limit his

capacity in a running, short-range gunfight.

Since shooting skills are perishable, it would be difficult to imagine someone having enough time

and resources to keep all three sides of the triangle at peak capability at the same time. After all,

there are only 24 hours in a day.


Hanging Targets

Nothing is more frustrating than having your training time limited by something as mundane as

hanging targets. Over the years, I have had to adopt some pretty creative methods just to

provide something useful to shoot. How creative you need to be depends on the location and

terrain of your training area. If there are trees or posts available, running two paralleled lengths

of para-cord with 10 inches of spacing between them works very well. I use clothespins to attach

the paper targets to the cord.

The lower, or second line, is required for paper targets if there is any breeze blowing at all.

Simply attach the bottom and top of the target to the two lines with the pins.

If the bullet stop or general terrain does not have any vertical supports, then you are going to

have to get inventive. One of my favorite ways to hang targets is using old camera tri-pods.


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I have also been seen using a pair of old cymbal stands from a drum set, and they worked quite

well. I have used sawhorses, industrial lighting stands, and even old scaffolding.

One of the best solutions was utilizing the posts of a badminton net the kids had stopped using

months before. My point is this: avoid using anything too fancy or valuable as there is a chance

the item will be the victim of a misplaced round. Most garages and attics are filled with target

practice makeshift equipment. You should also consider the aspect of mobility when acquiring

vertical supports. The camera tri-pods, for example, fold up into a small compact space and can

be thrown into the truck when the day is finished.

Para-cord, as of this writing, was around $6 per hundred feet. A bag of clothespins was $1. I

found the tri-pods pictured above on sale for $12 each. I have purchased used cymbal stands for

as little as $5 each. Take plenty of these supplies with you. The key is to use something

inexpensive, lightweight, portable, and flexible.


Tip – if the stands used to hang line from are too lightweight, you may have some

trouble with them tipping over. Counterweights, driving the legs into the ground, or

counterbalance support wires will normally do the trick.

Measuring Improvement

Before you perform the following evaluation drills, you will need a scorecard. I use a very simple

method, and it is easy to duplicate with access to a pen and paper or a computer. You can also

download an example from www. holdingyourground. com/Scorecard. php.

The above example contains sample values for each drill.

http://www.holdingyourground.com/Scorecard.php


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Evaluation Drills

The following sections describe the 11 evaluation drills:

Supported Mag Dump (Drill # 1)

This drill is a combination of time and accuracy. A paper target is used at a distance of 50

meters. The target should be 8x10 inches, so a standard sheet of white typing paper is fine. The

operator is allowed to use any shooting position desired. Prone, take a knee, use a tree…it really

doesn’t matter. The operator is to get into the most comfortable, ready position possible.

The operator is to place as many shots into the target as possible in 20 seconds. Reloads are not

a part of this exercise.

Net Score = (Hits – Misses)

Example: Operator fires 30 rounds at the target. A count finds 25 hits. The net

score is 20, or 25 hits – the 5 misses.

Supported Mag Dump with Reload (Drill # 2)

This drill is identical to Drill #1 with the exception of a forced reload. Take the number of hits

made in Drill #1 and divide in half. The result is the maximum number of rounds loaded in the

first magazine.

Example:

On Drill #1, 25 shots hit the target. The operator should load 13 rounds (one-half rounded up)

into the first magazine. Subsequent magazines can be fully loaded. The purpose here is to force

a reload.

The operator is to place as many shots into the target as possible in 20 seconds.



Offhand Mag Dump (Drill #3)

This drill is identical to #1, but shooting from the offhand position. In addition, the operator

should start with his hands off of the rifle, feet parallel.



Offhand Mag Dump with Reload (Drill # 4)

This drill is identical to #2, but shooting from the offhand position. In addition, the operator

should start with his hands off of the rifle, feet parallel.



Weak to Strong: 10 Minimum – Offhand (Drill #5)

This drill requires two targets. Each target should be 8x10 inches and the same distance away

(50 meters). The duration is to be 20 seconds. The operator is to put at least 10 rounds into the

weak side target before switching to the strong side, firing on the other target.

Reloads are allowed.


Pistol Offhand – Mag Dump (Drill #6)

Target is to be 8x10 inches and placed at a distance of 15 meters. Operator is to place as many

rounds into the target as possible in 20 seconds.


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Reloads are allowed.


Rifle Zip Line - 25 Meters (Drill #7)

One of my favorite drills is the “Zip Line.” This simple, inexpensive device requires the following

items:

1. 50-100 feet of Para-cord or other thin rope

2. A pulley (technically a trolley in the case)

3. Balloons

4. A tent stake or other anchor

5. A short piece of fishing line

6. A few fishing weights

The concept is simple and straightforward. You secure one end of the zip line to a tree or post

and the other end to some sort of anchor. An old camping tent stake works well, but I have used

a concert block, another tree, or even my shooting bag (heavy and full of mags) in a pinch. The

zip line is higher at one end than the other. The more downward angle you have on the line, the

faster the target will move.

Tip: The line must be super tight. There should be no dip or give in it at all.

Tip: Tie the higher end of the line in a fashion where you can undo it quickly. You will

want to repeat this training, which will require unfastening the high end. Any sort of

hook or clip will allow for more shooting and less setup.


Setting up the target is simple as well. I purchased a common pulley (used for clotheslines) from

a local home improvement store. They are inexpensive; mine was less than $2, small and

lightweight.


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The first thing I do is blow up six balloons. This step also serves the purpose of oxygenating the

blood, which depending on your physical condition, may produce a feeling similar to an

adrenalin rush in the extremities.

I then take a short piece of fishing line (about 20 inches) and secure a weight at one end. How

much weight you require depends on the type of line and trolley. Starting a few inches from the

non-weighted end, I sew on the balloons. I have found that using a large eye needle with a thin

fishing line works best. I use the needle and stitch the small “ear” or “flap” that is created on the

balloon when it is tied.

The balloon color doesn’t matter, nor does the size to which the balloons are inflated. Keep in

mind you are going to be shooting them, so inflate the balloons to a size to challenge your

existing skill level. By that I mean this, the smaller the balloon, the greater the exercise difficulty.

Save one of your inflated balloons as it will serve as the “brake.”


Once you have the zip line, target string, and trolley all set up, the last step is to install the

brake. This is another balloon, normally smaller in size. The picture below shows an example.

Tip: Have spares of everything in the zip line setup. You will accidentally hit the trolley,

para-cord, and weights. I even hit the fishing line now and then.

Tip: Making up several strings of targets beforehand is an option. If you’re like me, once

you begin training, you don’t want to stop and blow up balloons and restring fishing line.

On the other hand, in certain circumstances, a little down time, used to re-rig targets,

can be a good thing. It all depends on the day’s schedule and situation. Don’t

underestimate shooter’s fatigue – it is real and has several unintended consequences.


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The brake serves a couple of purposes. First of all, it keeps the trolley at the high end of the zip

line, ready to roll downhill as a moving target. Once everyone is safely in position, shooting the

balloon releases the trolley, and the target begins to roll downhill. If you inflate the brake

balloon so that it is smaller in size, it can be a bit of a challenge to hit. This causes a surprise

release and requires the shooter to reacquire the target string.

One critical component to the zip line exercise is the hostage balloon. Pick a color (or colors)

that is off-limits, or not a valid target. Over the years, we have started calling the selected color

the hostage. The logic for this rule is simple: With modern assault weapons, it’s easy to just pour

rounds into the string of balloons, and that voids the intent of the drill. If you pick a color that is

out-of-bounds, it forces the shooter to acquire and select the target.

Attaching the string of balloons to the zip line and pulley should be done in the following order:

A. Untie (or unhook) the high end of the zip line.


B. Apply the trolley brake balloon.

C. Run the zip line through the pulley and let the wheel rest against the brake balloon.

D. Reattach (tie) the zip line.

E. Tie the fishing line (string of balloons) to the pulley’s eyelet.

Set up a single hostage balloon in the middle of the string. The operator should be 25 meters

away, and when released, the trolley should travel slightly faster than a person walking. The run

time of the trolley should be just over two seconds. The balloons should be inflated to pineapple

size. The break balloon should be the size of a small grapefruit. The operator should pop the

brake balloon and then hit as many targets as possible without popping the hostage balloon.

Net Score = (Hits multiplied by 10)

If hostage balloon is hit, score is zero.

Pistol Zip Line - 15 Meters (Drill #8)

This drill is identical to #7 with the one exception of the operator being at 15 meters and using a

sidearm.


If hostage balloon is hit, the score is zero.

Flying Saucers (Drill #9)

WARNING – This drill requires extreme diligence in both the area used for training, as well as

the muzzle discipline and safety of all personnel. This technique should not be attempted unless

a bullet stop of proper height and condition exists.

Many people have tried skeet or trap shooting with a shotgun. This activity is a valid training

tool and a popular sport. Some years ago, I started using a variation of this type of shooting for

training with rifles. Substituting a Frisbee for the smaller clay targets used with scatterguns, this

training enhances many different combat skills and has become very popular with those wishing

to be Honous of hollow points.


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It is easy to find cheap Frisbees for around a dollar each. I would recommend you purchase the

brightest colors you can find. With a 5.56 NATO cartridge, they can often be reused two or three

times – depending on the type of bullet and the plastic used to mold the disk.

The drill is simple. The operator stands ready with his or her weapon in any position desired, and

then throws the Frisbee to engage. Critical note: The operator has to throw the disk It’s really

not that difficult to hit the flying target if someone else throws it – but the sequence of throwing

the target and then raising the weapon to engage takes some skill.

WARNING – A 5.56 NATO round, at optimum arch, can travel over 3,600 meters – over two

miles. Shooting at any target without the proper bullet stop is dangerous and illegal. You

should never engage any target without knowing that the area, both to and behind the target,

is clear.

Since most people don’t throw one of these toys all that well, the direction, elevation and speed

of the target are all unknown. These variables, coupled with the operator’s ability to maneuver

back into the shooting position when the target appears, allow this training exercise to develop

skills that are apt to be needed in a real emergency reaction shot.


The element of surprise is always difficult to overcome in a combat situation. Shooters who

process a clean OODA loop for this type of off-balance drill have a better chance of surviving.

While no one could claim throwing a child’s toy in the air as a target recreates the actual stress

experienced in combat – the steps and process are all the same.

One of the unique attributes to throwing a Frisbee is that you hurl it across your body, not from

the dominate side like throwing a ball. For right-handed people, this means that your right foot

would be forward and your weight would be shifting to your right side. Throwing a ball would be

the opposite. The same right-handed operator, when shooting a rifle, would position the left

foot forward.

This equates to the operator being completely out of position as the target leaves the hand. The

rifle is most likely dangling via its sling, the shooter’s weight is completely on the wrong foot,

and balance is not perfect due to throwing action. Being out of position is more realistic, as most

people don’t walk around with a weapon up and ready to engage. Since the shooter is forced to

move into a shooting position before acquiring the small, moving target, this exercise becomes

very challenging and realistic.

It is interesting to observe people’s reaction to this exercise. Initially most operators don’t

believe they can hit the target – regardless of skill level. I normally overcome this by first

demonstrating it can be done and then by having an instructor toss the target while the

operator stands ready. Once the student realizes it is possible to hit the target, it then becomes

a matter of getting into a proper stance quickly. Wouldn’t most combat situations require the

same?

After establishing the initial confidence that the shot is possible, most operators still don’t quite

get it. They focus on executing a better throw in order to give themselves more time. This

results in bad throws, being even more off balance, and fewer hits. The goal of this training is to

improve the shooter’s capability to get into a proper stance while acquiring a moving target. The

secret is to decrease the time of raising the rifle and getting into a NPA, not in how far a Frisbee

can be tossed.

Another benefit of this exercise is familiarity with the weapon and more specifically, the sight

pattern. The typical person can throw a Frisbee between 25 and 40 meters. This is well inside

the distance involved in a military engagement (over 75 meters). Anyone who has zeroed a rifle

at 100 meters will have to execute a holdover on the target.


- 39 -

The Frisbee travels just a little faster than a person who is running. While the average toss

moves the target away from the shooter, these flying disks rarely travel in a straight line. This

exercise helps the operator determine if they need to lead the moving target.


Note: There are some people who, no matter how hard they try, can’t throw a Frisbee. If, after

several practice throws, it’s clearly not going to work out, then it is acceptable for the instructor

to throw the disk while standing next to the operator as long as the operator mimics the motion

of the toss.

Numbers Game: Rifle (Drill #10)

For this evaluation drill you will need to create a target similar to the one pictured below (Figure

2.11).

Each circle should be 4 inches in diameter and clearly marked with the numbers. I have found

the lid of an appropriately sized jar makes a good template to trace. A black marker and

cardboard make this an inexpensive target.


You will also require a tape recorder or similar (most smart phones have recording capability) as

well as an earpiece that can be worn while shooting. You should prerecord a cadence of eight

random numbers between one and six. It should take eight seconds for the string of numbers to

be heard, allowing one number per second. One number should be left out of the cadence and

three numbers should be duplicated once each. The following string is an example:

4 – 5 – 2 – 5 – 1 – 6 – 2 – 6

The trainee listening to the pre-recorded string shoots the associated number as it is called.

Start at 50 meters from the target. Any position is allowed.

Hits are scored as any round touching a circle. The count per circle should be compared to the

string of numbers. In the example above, the numbers 2, 5 and 6 should have two holes. The

number 3 should not have any.

Net Score = Hits


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Subtract 1 for each round that is not in the correct circle or misses the target.

Numbers Game: Pistol (Drill #11)

This drill is identical to #10, but should be performed with a unique string of numbers. The

operator uses the secondary (pistol) from a distance of 15 meters.

Net Score = Hits

Subtract 1 for each round that is not in the correct circle.


Chapter 3

Evaluation Summary

You will notice that there is no total of the evaluation scores on the sample scorecard. This is

intentional. Each of the eleven drills is intended to tell its own story about the operator’s skill

level with certain aspects of combat shooting. Everyone always wants to know how they

compare to others who have taken the course. Despite my advice that it really doesn’t matter, it

is understandable to be curious. For this reason, I will include an unscientific summary of skill

levels in the following sections.

Supported Mag Dump (#1)

The Mag Dump Drills are intended to measure one of the most basic variables of shooting –

recoil management. If the shooter has proper stance, grip, and body positioning (NPA), Drill #1

should produce consistent hits in less than one second each. This drill also teaches a level of

shot management. Since reloads are not allowed, the operator has to find the right combination

of accuracy and speed. My average score is always 28 because that is the number of rounds I

load into an AR15 magazine. Most experienced shooters will score over 20.

The average person, who typically is already a very experienced shooter, will score between 20-

30 points on this drill. With a score below 20, there is a problem somewhere that we need to

find and fix. Here are some items I look for:

Tight Groupings – If the groupings are too tight, the operator either doesn’t understand the

purpose of the drill or has other issues. This issue is remedied by explaining the need to sacrifice

a little accuracy in exchange for more rounds on target.

High number of misses – Again, given the shooter understands the purpose of the drill, a high

number of misses (shots fired but completely miss the paper) indicates rushing the shots.

Equipment can also play a role here as I have found loose scope mounts, wobbly rails, and other

kit-based reasons for misses.

Low number of shots attempted – This is normally a mindset problem. Even beginners should

be able to align and fire at one shot per second, or 20 rounds attempted.


- 43 -

High number of shots attempted (finish the mag well before the time is up) – Spray and pray,

or suppressive fire, is not the intent of this drill. It is almost a certainty that this issue will also

result in a high number of misses. I have found suppressive fire is overrated, especially for the

individual involved in a gunfight. This tactical method has its purposes if maneuvering, but from

a fixed position its value is limited unless being used in a team environment.

Supported Mag Dump with Reload (#2)

It is always interesting to see the operator’s choice of position on this drill. Identical in setup to

#1 (above), the shooter is given the option of how to execute the drill. Given the limited number

of rounds permitted in the first magazine, knowing that a mag change is going to be required

can cause many people to go into analysis paralysis.

For accuracy, going prone would be most people’s initial thought. However, a mag change, while

prone, is typically not a fast maneuver. While there is no right or wrong way to execute this drill,

it does provide an early indication of how comfortable a student is with their rudimental skills.

It’s normally the first lesson of the day about creative thinking.

I’ve really made some operators angry when, after they shoot the drill, I pull a full mag off of my

vest, toss it down to the ground and then go prone to take my turn. “You cheated,” is a common

statement, to which I normally answer, “No, I was thinking.” I have also been known to shoot

the drill offhand, trading the speed of a strategic magazine change for the accuracy of a

supported weapon. Remember, we are shooting at a rather large target at only 50 meters.

Grouping counts for nothing – putting lead on target is everything.

A mag change should be no more than a two-second affair. If you are good, you lose less time

than that. I like to take the average number of shots per second (can be less than one) and

determine exactly how long this common task takes.

Over the years, I have filmed a few of my clients to assist in debriefing them later. It is amazing

to watch, in slow motion, what eats up the most time. Here is a quick summary of cause and

effect:

a. Removing the full mag from load gear. This is commonly the beginning of the problems

and one of the easiest to solve. Practice will solve this issue. Rarely is it an equipment

problem. Given the different types of pouches (flap, bungee cord, Velcro) practice with

your specific gear is the key.


b. Insertion of the full mag. This is where most people eat up the largest segment of time.

There are several different schools of thought regarding the proper method for

slamming in a full mag. Some of these are weapon specific, so if you are using an AK,

you will execute a slightly different process than an M4.

c. Reacquisition of the target. Surprisingly, this process takes more time than it should on

almost every shooter I teach. During the process of ejection, acquiring a full mag,

insertion, and reacquiring the target, most shooters get their feet and body out of

position.

The topic of mag changes is covered in more detail in the section Improvement – Reloads

Tactical and Strategic.

Another bad habit I commonly see involves the empty magazine. Even the most experienced

shooters will release the empty, put it in their dump pouch, and then reach for the full mag. In a

gunfight, this is just plain wasteful. I know many departments and military units require shooters

to manage their empties. The problem is that this action becomes habit and under stress,

people tend to execute their redundancy-enforced movements. Hit the release button, rattle

the rifle, and let that empty fall. Your free hand should be reaching for the full mag before the

empty is leaving the rifle. We will go back and police up your equipment later – after we carry

the day.

Throughout the remainder of this book, you will encounter several exercises and drills designed

to address these problems. Don’t believe that standing around in your backyard popping mags

in and out of your AK is going to fix all of the issues. Under stress (the clock in our case), in

different situations, your muscle memory may cause more problems than it solves.

The average operator drops to a score of 15-20 on this drill. My average goes up from Drill #1 to

Drill #2. It’s not uncommon for me to score 35 on this drill. I’ve seen scores above 40.

Offhand Mag Dump (#3)

This drill demonstrates, what in my personal opinion, is one of the shortcomings of some

shooting competitions. You will not always have your weapon in a ready position, facing the

threat. Even in an active combat zone, your hands are used for balance, opening doors,

scratching an itch or taking a drink. You must develop the skills to grasp your weapon and bring

your body into a fighting position in a quick, efficient motion.


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Changing from a supported firing position to offhand really shouldn’t make much difference in

the scoring on this drill. For a proper evaluation, I deduct the amount of time the shooter takes

to fire the first shot and then average out the hits per second without that delay.

Obviously, the mechanics of bringing the weapon into play is one area of improvement this drill

will point out. The second, and probably more important symptom that may appear, is a large

difference in hits or number of shots attempted due to the offhand stance.

In initial hostile encounters, offhand is going to be the most common position you will find

yourself in. There is no logical reason why the number of trigger pulls should be less than drill

#1. If the shooter executes properly, the number of hits should be identical or at least within

one or two.

Offhand Mag Dump with Reload (#4)

By the time you execute this fourth drill, it should start becoming redundant. The same

observations and comments apply to this drill as to #2 (above). The fact that most people

practice reloads in an offhand position should help the average operator feel more comfortable

and obtain a slightly better score than a prone or supported position.

As with #2 above, I want to know what switching magazines costs in time. More specifically, I

want that loss of precious seconds broken down into three sub-sections:

How long did it take to get the fresh mag in my hand?

How long did it take to insert it and verify it had seated?

How long did it take me to reacquire the target?

Each of these three usages of time is addressed differently.

Several observations can be made while watching or even filming someone switch mags. One of

the most obvious advantages concerns the operator’s line of sight. While it is not safe for the

observer to stand in front of the shooter and watch, I’ve developed the habit of standing parallel

and paying close attention to the shooter’s line of vision during the process.

There are a few quick fixes for some bad habits. One of the most obvious examples is how full

magazines are carried. If, for instance, you are using load gear and have the spares on your

chest, you should have them turned in the right direction to facilitate loading. This saves the

time of checking to see which way the rounds are pointed. Even if I pull magazines from my


dump pouch, I know by feeling the curve (AR15 mags) which is the proper way to insert them.

Do you?

A beginner stands and fumbles through the swap, taking 4-5 seconds to execute. An

experienced shooter will use the “work space” method and complete the action in 2-3 seconds.

Others never take their eyes off of the threat and can reload in less than 2 seconds while the

rifle never wanders far from the ready position.

This is more than just showing off. Statistically, there is a high probably of fighting at night. This

drill translates into being able to execute a reload without using your eyes.

We will discuss mag changes in more detail in the section Improvement – Reloads Tactical and

Strategic.

Weak to Strong: 10 Minimum – Offhand (#5)

For many, this is the most difficult drill in the mix. The switch from weak side to strong,

hopefully under duress, will point out any eye dominance or basic issues with obtaining a sight

picture. This drill can also bring sling problems to light. This topic is addressed in Chapter 4 –

Equipment Check.

Probably more than any other drill in the initial evaluation, the rapid change from weak to

strong side can be improved with equipment. Keeping both eyes open during shooting as well as

a proper sling arrangement can make a tremendous difference in this exercise. These two items

combined with a reasonable practice routine using the weak side can produce the desired

results. Most professional operators can perform from the weak side with 80% or more

efficiency as compared to their strong side.

My personal score is normally around 28 on this drill. If I don’t use a sling (cheating) then I can

usually reach 30-35 rounds on target. Running the drill without a sling is interesting if you want

to eliminate hardware as a factor. This sub-exercise is not scored because it is unrealistic to be in

a combat situation without a sling.

The average shooter can score well over 20 on this drill. Anything less than 20 and there are

probably other fundamental issues that should be addressed.


- 47 -

Pistol Offhand – Mag Dump (#6)

Many of my clients better my personal score on this exercise. My secondary weapon is a 1911A

(.45) with very hot rounds, and thus a lot of recoil to manage. I don’t like any of the high

capacity magazines and load up with the standard eight rounder. My extra magazines for my

sidearm are not a priority either. Many shooters have them as accessible as their rifle spares.

Mine are off to the side and stored in a secured pouch.

This situation often generates a lot of discussion and perhaps seems hypocritical given my view

concerning long guns. My logic, typical area of operation, and skill with a carbine make it my

primary. My handgun is my secondary. It is only used in event of failure or when the rare

environmental need, such as a tunnel, requires it. That role may not match yours. If you are a

police officer, you most likely reach for your sidearm far more often than you retrieve the patrol

rifle from the trunk. If I were training for your role, my pistol would receive more attention –

both in training and weapon’s selection.

This is not to say the secondary isn’t important to the Shootist. Nothing could be further from

the truth. It’s only meant to imply that different professions have different needs from a

capabilities point of view. A 1911A fits my needs, and I put lead on target with it.

On this drill, my average score is 15. With operators, I see a wide range of results, with the best

pistoleros being in the mid-20s. If your score is less than 10, there is some work to be done.

Even if your secondary is a pug .357 magnum revolver, you should be able to speed load and get

10 shots onto the target.

Misses are important here. The missed shot should be rare at this range. If you are experiencing

a lot of misses, there is most likely a kink in your basics that has crept into your stance, sight

picture, or trigger pull.

Rifle Zip Line - 25 Meters (#7)

Now the fun has begun. When I am working with an operator, I learn more from watching a

shooter execute this drill than any other. For years, advanced training facilities have used

moving targets to help train their scholars of lead. One of my biggest complaints about most of

these exercises has been that the target moved on a flat horizontal line.


While still helpful, this trajectory requires controlling a weapon on a single plane. This makes the

drill less realistic for combat shooting as it is the rare occasion where multiple targets are on the

same plane.

One of the first concepts I teach for the zipper (we give nicknames to everything) is forward foot

placement.

The diagram above shows an incorrect placement. The shooter aligns the stance on the starting

point on the trolley (A) and then swivels the hips (B) to follow and fire at the target as it moves

right to left. The zip line is intended to simulate a likely avenue of approach being used by

multiple threats. This avenue of approach could be a street, alley, or just an assigned area to

cover.


- 49 -

The more a shooter has to twist the hips to align on the target, the less recoil management and

control can be applied to the weapon. While the amount of flexibility will vary from person to

person, no one can control a rifle as well with hips torqued.

Some shooters execute the zip line, body alignment initially aimed at the starting point, and

then change once the target brake is hit. This additional movement again wastes time.

The proper method is to align on the center of the zip line and twist only slightly to pop the

brake balloon. As the rabbit (target string of balloons) gains speed, the shooter is following and

gaining the proper degree of alignment on every shot until the target passes through the center

of the line. This initial alignment is shown below:


If you are having trouble hitting any of the balloons, don’t hesitate to tie a larger target or single

balloon and practice. I have encountered numerous, very experienced shooters who have never

executed a drill against a moving target and need some time to adjust.

On all but the worst days, I can eliminate all targets with the hostage balloon surviving. The

average shooter will get one or two of the targets and will hit the hostage balloon one out of

three times. Drill repetition can eliminate this problem. I can’t remember the last time I hit the

hostage balloon.

Pistol Zip Line - 15 Meters (#8)

You should expect identical results with this drill as #7 above. If there is a significant difference

in your score, it can probably be attributed to the amount of experience and practice spent with

one weapon versus the other.

About the only statistical difference I experience is hitting the hostage balloon more often.

While still rare, it does seem to happen, and I mentally blame it on the recoil of my weapon.

Flying Saucers (#9)

This is my favorite drill for a variety of reasons. First of all, most operators are apprehensive

about this drill. For some reason it looks much more difficult than it really is. Throwing the disk is

often the hard part. I reassure people that if they don’t rush the throw and concentrate on

initial body alignment (NPA) they will be surprised at how easy this is.

One would think that experienced trap and skeet shooters would smirk at this drill and perform

better than those who have no experience with the sport. This has not proven to be true. What I

have learned is people who have hunted grouse (a game bird) seem to excel at this test. I think

the reason is in the nature of the hunt. For those who have never hunted grouse, the little

demons remain still on the ground until you practically step on them and then explode with a

fury of feathers and noise – seemingly right from under your foot. The successful hunter adapts

to achieve NPA quickly, even when surprised.


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Like the zip line above, I find the average shooter leads the target too much, resulting in misses.

The distances involved using the typical assault rifle do not require any adjustment for leading

the target.

On all but the worst days, I can hit five out of five disks. Wind and small pockets of thermal air

can make this drill a real challenge. Everyone misses now and then. I can hit 19 or 20 throws in

normal conditions, often landing more than one shot on the disk.

The average operator will hit two of five tosses, but quickly improve after realizing that the drill

is not so difficult.

Numbers Game: Rifle (#10)

Up until this point, all of the drills have limited the number of OODA loop variables. Drills #10

and #11 add a new sensory input to the shooting experience – audio. On the surface, there is no

situational equivalent with this test and combat. Numbered threats do not approach you while

some commander shouts out the order for you to engage.

But in a firefight, audio sensory input can be critical, especially at night. Fighting in an urban area

would be another example where using your ears as well as your eyes can be a lifesaving skill.

Of all of the drills so far, the Numbers Game is the most difficult to improve one’s scoring once

you reach a certain point. Simple practice will help somewhat, but it is very difficult to achieve

noticeable gains after executing this drill ten or so times.

Most people struggle with the accuracy versus speed dilemma. Is it better to hit 4 of 8 shots in

two seconds, or 8 of 8 in ten seconds? This assumes an honest set of random numbers

(memorization is cheating) and good pace of cadence.

I always advise operators to emphasize accuracy until their shots start consistently being

centered in the circle. After that, work on speed up to the point where misses become common.

Different people may choose to do things the opposite way, but focusing effort in the above

order has worked for me.

This drill will also initiate some serious debates on optics. The circles are not that large, and

some operators believe magnification helps with this drill. I happen to agree with them; others

do not. It is always interesting to exchange weapons with an operator and compare how they


perform with a magnified gunsight. This is an improvement you may want to experiment with at

home.

Again, only as a frame of reference, I normally achieve 8 hits in 6 seconds. My goal has always

been two per second, but I just can’t seem to get there.

Numbers Game: Pistol (#11)

Because of barrel length and weight of the weapon, the average person will score slightly better

with the sidearm than a rifle (#10) on this drill. Again, the amount of experience with each

weapon is a factor in the score, but over the years the pistol statistically produces the best

results.

It is always wise to compare the results of Drills #10 and #11 with the Offhand Mag Dump Drills

#3 and #6 respectively. While the distances, size of targets and overall expectations of the two

sets of drills are different, a wide gap in results can be an indicator that should be examined.

If, for example, you score very well on the Numbers Game with the handgun, but have a lower

score on Drill #6, this could point out a need to focus on your stance/grip and recoil

management. This scoring would indicate that the operator is accomplished in processing the

audio to hand OODA loop, so there must be some difference in managing the weapon. In most

cases, my experience has shown recoil management (acquiring the target for the follow-up shot)

is the cause.

These results might also be related to differences with rifle optic versus handgun sight picture.

As I have aged, the post and fork sights on my handguns take a moment of visual focus and

alignment during acquisition that is unnecessary with the shoulder-fired weapon. This, most

likely, is due to the aging of my eyes. If you experience a significant difference in scoring, a trip

to the eye doc might be in order.


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Chapter 4

Improvement

As you executed the drills outlined in the first section of this book, you may or may not have

been satisfied with the results. Obviously, practice and repetition are part of the equation for

becoming a better Shootist. There are however, additional factors that will influence the results.

Equipment, methods, and mindset all play a role in reaching the level of skill you desire. One of

the most critical factors is experience. I have yet to figure out a way of providing knowledge

transfer via a book concerning experience. I can share techniques and lessons learned, but there

is no real substitute for actual empirical activities.

The following sections are all about improving. I recommend you digest the information and

recommendations before you finalize any training ritual or exercise routine.

Equipment Check

I really don’t care very much about your equipment. It doesn’t matter to me if you run an AK,

AR, SKS or even an M1 carbine. That’s up to you. Bring a lever action cowboy rifle if that blows

hot air up your skirt.

I also could care less about what type of optic you use. You can run iron sights if you prefer.

Your load gear, if any, doesn’t make any difference either. You can carry your spare ammo in

your back pocket and use a rope for a sling if you want.

Experience has shown me I probably should care. If the operator’s equipment is not up to the

task of a modern, fast-moving gunfight, they become frustrated, exhausted, and ultimately

insecure about their chances of survival. You might choose to blame me or shake your head as

you limp back to the parking lot telling yourself, “Those exercises were unrealistic.”


Equipment should be important to you for all of the obvious reasons – reliability, comfort,

durability, capability etc…etc. There is another reason why equipment should be high on your

priority list. Over the years, I have noticed some folks focus on themselves and never think

about what they may face. This point is a meaningful difference between a Shootist and the

average guy, and was summed up quite well over a thousand years ago by this dude named Sun

Tzu. He stated in his classic work – The Art of War:

Know thy self. Know thy enemy.

Imagine having a 1700’s era black powder weapon and having to fight against someone

brandishing a modern bolt-action hunting rifle with a good scope. The accuracy, rate of fire,

reliability, and range of the modern weapon would place you at a huge disadvantage.

The same capabilities gap exists between today’s weapon systems and those of only a few years

ago. Holographic weapon sights, modern slings, load gear and even hearing enhancement all

provide some advantage to a modern Shootist.

Not long ago, I had a discussion with a gentleman who had served in Vietnam. He was a

decorated combat veteran and a man of honor. He believed iron sights were faster, more

reliable, and superior to modern holographic sights. He expressed a distrust of electronic

devices on the battlefield. When I questioned which models he had evaluated, his reply

indicated he had “looked through them a few times, but never fired the rifle.” While I respect

the man, his service and his bravery, this sort of attitude is not that of a Shootist.

Continuing with holographic sights as an example, a Shootist wants every advantage he can get.

The Shootist works to achieve expertise with both iron sights and modern options. The Shootist

knows the basics of any weapon he may scavenge from the battlefield, including the optics.

Being narrow-minded or set in one’s ways is okay when choosing automobiles, pizza and music.

In a gunfight, it can get you killed. A constant cycle of evaluation is required – both in equipment

and techniques. Military-issued rifles, even today, come equipped with iron sights capable of

elevation adjustments out to several hundred meters. Would any serious professional choose

irons over a modern riflescope for a long-range engagement?

The shooter with the riflescope would have a serious advantage and in all but the rarest

occasions win the fight. The same can be said of modern optics as compared to irons. Unless

there is something different about how your eyes work, the latest advancements in target

acquisition tools will make you faster.


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Some guys are like me and my old-fashioned pistol. Even though I know there are more capable

weapons (from several aspects), I stick with my tried and true tool. The difference is that I

continue to evaluate all kinds of alternatives, and I do so with an open mind. I am always trying

to find a better option because my life may depend on it.

As you execute the drills above, equipment issues will quickly raise their ugly heads. For

example, evaluation Drill #5, Weak to Strong, will uncover any shortcomings in your sling.

If you don’t have the proper sling setup, you will never score well while switching shoulders.

Slings come in two basic flavors, single point and 2-point. Both of these labels indicate the

number of attachment points on the weapon. While technically there is something called a 3-

point sling, I haven’t seen one being used by a professional in years.

Single Point 2-Point

Faster change between weak and strong sides

Slower changing weak to strong

Weapon less secure – bangs into legs and equipment while maneuvering

Weapon more secure against the body and hands free activities

Not as adaptable – moving the rifle around to your back doesn’t work well

More adaptable/adjustable. Can be used to steady aim.

As with most equipment options, what type of sling you prefer should be based upon your

mission, role and objective. If you are a SWAT officer, your typical engagement profile involves

limited foot patrol time. You probably anticipate a short duration, high intensity engagement. A

single point sling would make sense.

A soldier, on the other hand, has a completely different profile. The soldier most likely

anticipates long periods of walking through the field, extended periods of battle and much,

much more maneuver during the fight. The soldier might prefer the 2-point sling.

For years, the advantage of the single point models was switching from strong to weak side. The

problem with these units has always been stability of the weapon when hanging freely (using

your hands for other activities.)

Recently, new designs of 2-point slings had negated some of this advantage while still

maintaining the stability of the design. These design changes include quick release pull-tabs and


cross connection rings that actually change a 2-point unit to a single point in just a few

moments.

Regardless of the type of sling you select, there are a few tips I can pass along, based on

experience:

1. The butt of the rifle stock should ride about collarbone high while the weapon is

hanging freely. This position is normally optimum for shouldering the weapon without

interference from load gear or other kit. It also keeps the stock close to its eventual

firing position.

2. You must be able to perform all remedial drills without interference from the sling.

3. You must be able to switch shoulders without interference from the sling.

4. When naturally resting, the barrel should be between your legs or off to one side.

Nothing sucks worse than running and having the rifle barrel attempt a castration.

Banging into the operator’s legs isn’t much better.

5. You should know how to get completely out of the sling quickly. This isn’t as simple as

one might think if you are humping a pack, water bladder, armor, full load vest and

other equipment. Simply lifting the weapon over your head doesn’t always work. Quick

detach connections can be handy should you, or someone else need to remove the

weapon in a hurry. For example, you might be bleeding out, and the corpsman can’t

work on the wound because your weapon is in the way.

6. The sling should be easily adjustable. You, most likely, will be carrying different loads for

different missions. What you have on your chest rig might change during the operation.

You need to be able to adjust the weapon’s position quickly.

7. There will be times when you simply want to secure the weapon out of the way. Some

guys like it up tight against their chests, while others prefer to swing their weapons

around to their backs. Make sure you can switch to an arms free status without a

weapon banging into every part of your body.

8. You must be able to transfer to your secondary (pistol) without the rifle interfering with

the movement. You should be able to access the mags for the secondary without

pushing the primary out of the way.


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Stance

No book on firearms training would be complete without a section on holding a weapon, or

stance. There is a reason why all savvy instructors spend so much time on this topic – it is the

foundation on which all other skills are built. If a shooting stance is weak or unorthodox, it

becomes very difficult to develop advanced capabilities, or in other words, become a Shootist.

Some time ago, I started noticing a trend with my clients: The older, more experienced shooters

seemed to have trouble improving their times with the rifle drills as outlined above. I could take

an active duty, enlisted “kid” and help them, but the “old dogs” seemed to have trouble learning

new tricks.

By pure circumstance, I provided some training to a small group of men who were older and

more experienced, but had spent the majority of their trigger time hunting. These “old dogs”

had little experience with handguns and showed considerable improvement right before my

eyes. This puzzled me as it flew in the face of previous sessions.

Over the years, I started seeing a clear pattern. Clients who had considerable pistol experience

and used a significantly different stance with the secondary versus the long gun were slower and

seemed to have trouble improving. The difference wasn’t a deal breaker – but it was there.

Since making this discovery, I have further refined my opinion as to the cause – if your brain has

two different OODA loops to process when encountering a threat, it takes it slightly longer to

make a choice. For this reason, I have included information regarding stances and shooting with

a pistol.

Most people have already chosen a basic pistol stance based upon department standards,

military training, or how their brother-in-law told them to do it. This is acceptable as long as it

doesn’t degrade other capabilities.

I have one overriding criteria for a stance, be it rifle or sidearm:

Be aware that when you are scared, you will try to hide behind your weapon.

Most of us have seen children’s cartoons where the large character hides behind the skinny pole

or tree. While this whimsical vision may be funny for the kids, my experience actually mimics

this attempt to violate the laws of physics.


Any time I have held a weapon when facing a threat, I have naturally experienced fear. Without

conscious thought, I try and hide as much of my body behind the rifle or pistol as possible.

Perhaps you are a braver man than I am and don’t suffer from this effect…perhaps.

For me, any stance used in practice that doesn’t account for this situation is doing a disservice to

the operator.

The second most important aspect of your stance is commonly referred to as Natural Point of

Aim, or NPA (see Terms above).

Pistol stances are often recommended or taught in direct violation of NPA. The use of a sidearm

generally indicates the threat of danger is close, and most likely the duration of the fight will be

very limited. These circumstances greatly reduce the impact of NPA on the shooter. Fighting

with a rifle is a different story. Add multiple targets, combined with a longer duration gunfight,

and NPA becomes critical. When distance (accuracy) is included, it becomes difficult to argue

any other single aspect deserving a higher priority than NPA.

There are other important reasons to have a solid stance. Before we delve into some of the

decision criteria, a small amount of background may be of benefit. There has been so much

written about stances, or shooting positions, it would take days to read and digest it all. The

debate about stances normally centers on pistol shooting and boils down to two important

factors:

The position of the feet

The position of the arms

In addition to hiding behind the weapon and NPA, there are countless other reasons why this is

important. One benefit of a good stance is the shooter’s management of recoil. Every instructor

has his preferences or prescribed stance, given the level and type of teaching being done. For

the most part, the various options are based upon either the Isosceles, or Weaver stances.

Because no two human bodies are identical, there are numerous variations of these basic two

categories of stance.

The Weaver stance dates back to the 1950s. The name was originated by one of the founding

fathers of combat shooting tactics, Colonel Jeff Cooper. The stance was named after a Los

Angeles County deputy sheriff, Jack Weaver. At the time, Colonel Cooper hosted some rather

creative pistol matches, called “Leatherslap,” and Jack Weaver’s performance impressed him.


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The modified Weaver stance, often referred to as the Chapman Stance, modifies the basic

Weaver position by extending the strong side arm away from the body to a position where the

elbow is almost locked. Ray Chapman was another influential pistol guru. Similar to Jack

Weaver, he had a police background and was an instructor at the Los Alamitos Police

Department. Mr. Chapman took the Weaver stance and changed it slightly.

The Isosceles based stances are more recent and have gained wide acceptance in the law

enforcement and special operations communities in recent years.


Throughout this book, I use a modified Weaver stance with my secondary weapon (pistol).

Stance with a handgun is not the focus of this writing, and most readers will have already

developed a preference for how they engage with their secondary. If you have already made up

your mind, or if your department/unit has a standard, then that’s fine.

Again, the reason why this is important is because I see so many operators who can use

improvement in target acquisition from any position other than patrol ready. You should be

aware that it will be harder to improve rifle performance if you have a significant amount of

time addressing threats in other positions.

The purpose of the Flying Saucers Drill is to demonstrate how the body, front foot, and weapon

are aligned when addressing a threat. Many shooters attempt to twist their hips if the disk is off-

line. It is also common to see the front foot adjusted one or more times before the shot is taken.

This takes time, and time is the enemy of the Shootist.


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When given a student who has not previously adopted a pistol stance, my teaching on the

proper stance for gunfighting is not unique, nor would it be considered revolutionary by any

means. It can be summed up with three simple statements:

1. You should shoot both the pistol and rifle from the same basic stance.

2. That stance should be the same, regardless of body position (offhand, prone,

kneeling, etc.)

3. You should expose the least amount of your body as possible to any threat.

As mentioned above, when I hide behind my weapon, my body naturally seems to fall into the

modified Weaver stance. Another reason for using the Modified Weaver is that I have

programed my body for one single stance, regardless of position or weapon. This lowers the

number of physical commands my body has to execute and allows a faster reaction time. The

number of cycles of my OODA loop is decreased. As the pictures below in Figure 4.3

demonstrate, my stance with the rifle and pistol are identical with the exception of my strong

side (right) arm.


As a matter of fact, were I not using a raised optic, my head position would be nearly identical

for sight alignment.

My stance is basically the same regardless of position. It works for kneeling supported, kneeling,

and prone.

All of the major body parts are in the same position. The left foot is forward, and the arms are in

nearly identical positions. Even when going prone, my legs automatically seek the same position,

and the angle of my body off of the line of fire is very similar.

The basis of this teaching is repetitive muscle memory under stress. It is a safe assumption that

someone will be shooting at you, and this obviously creates stress. If you shoot your pistol from

a different position than your rifle, you have two sets of commands (OODA) to process. If you

hold your rifle differently from a kneeling position than offhand, then the number grows

exponentially.

As you train, the repetitive nature of various drills is designed to create reflex and muscle

memory. As stated above, everything the Shootist does is to reduce or improve the number of

OODA loops being processed. Under stress, you don’t want to have to think about what you are

doing. The steps required to place high velocity lead on a target need to be as few and as


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automatic as possible. If you are conditioned to identify, acquire, and shoot a threat, the process

will happen much faster if your body automatically defaults to the right position.

The drills included in this book are meant to simulate stress and the shooter’s reaction to it. The

fewer actions your brain has to deal with, the more likely you will survive.

Another important item to consider is how much you expose your body to the threat. This topic

will be addressed in the section Shooting and Cover.

There are other considerations for various stances that are influenced by the area of operations

(AO) or the anticipated conditions where a fight may occur. As an example, a police officer has

different body armor than a soldier. Many departments issue level IIIA vests that provide less

protection under the arms than full military grade equipment. A stance that keeps the most

protection (armor) facing the threat makes sense. Military units have to potentially deal with

hand grenades, IEDs, mortar rounds and other shrapnel-based threats, so their needs are

significantly different.

The equipment being utilized by the shooter is critical as well. It wouldn’t be uncommon for a

soldier to have armor (thick), load vest (thick), pack (thick straps) and multiple layers of clothing

between the shoulder and the stock. The secondary may be rarely used and not in an optimal

position. It would be the rare situation when a police officer were humping that much gear, but

most likely has a pistol in a quick draw position. A security specialist (bodyguard) is probably

wearing a suit and tie or other civilian clothing and may not have any armor. Everything else

would be concealed and thus not as accessible as it is for the soldier or policeman. All of these

variables not only impact the shooter’s stance, but also the preferred training method. We will

explore this topic in depth in later sections.

Rifle Fulcrum

As stated above, my definition of a Shootist involves engaging multiple targets. This obviously

means multiple shots. If the rifle didn’t move off target when discharged, being able to acquire

multiple targets would be much simpler. As anyone who has ever fired a medium caliber or

larger weapon will attest, the rifle does move. Even the relatively light kicking 5.56 NATO round

used in the AR15 family of rifles generates recoil that must be managed.

One method I have developed over the years I refer to as The Fulcrum. This grip is fairly simple. I

canter the barrel downwards, with about two pounds of force, with my strong hand. On an


AR15 platform of weapons, this means my right hand, at the wrist, is pushing the barrel

downward using the pistol grip. This is a similar motion to casting a fishing rod, except the

pressure is constant.

This has the effect of pushing down on my weak side (left) arm. Since the butt plate of the

weapon is against my shoulder, the result in the rifle being in a bind and steadies the platform

during discharge.

A) My wrist is torqueing the barrel down. This is not the same as pushing up on the pistol

grip.

B) My weak hand is pulling the weapon back into my shoulder and holding the barrel up.

This supports both the weapon’s weight and the force being applied by my right wrist

(A).

C) You will notice there is a gap between the upper portion of the butt stock and my

shoulder. This is a result of A + B. All of the pressure of the weapon against my shoulder

is in the bottom half of the butt stock. If you were to put your finger between my

shoulder and the top of the stock (not advised unless we are very good friends), you

wouldn’t feel any pressure even if I fired the weapon.

Over the years, I have attempted to scientifically measure the impact of this grip, but as of yet, I

haven’t found a way that would pass muster with an engineering professor. Many of my clients

adopt this grip immediately, while others claim it doesn’t seem to help them. For me,


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personally, I notice much less muzzle movement with the fulcrum, which translates into faster

follow-on shots. The position is now so natural, I have to think about doing things the traditional

way.

Strength and endurance are obviously important using this type of interlocking muscle and

skeletal support. There are exercises in the section Off-range Trigger Time below that will help

you quickly overcome any additional fatigue involved with this grip.

If you believe you need to improve your scores on any of the rapid fire drills above, I

recommend you give this grip a serious try.

Rifle Side Grip

One of the more recent developments coming out of the competition shooting realm is called by

many the “Side Grip,” among other names. The operator’s position is basically the same with

the exception of the weak side hand, which is moved forward and positioned on the side of the

rifle rather than underneath.

The logic for this grip is that the operator has more horizontal control as the rifle moves right to

left or vice versa. Many competition shooters have adapted this grip and claim to have improved

their times.


I have had mixed results in my attempts to use this method. While it is undeniable that there is a

degree of improvement in horizontal control, I have also experienced some loss in vertical

control. It is easy to understand why steel plate competitors would see benefit in this grip. Most

of the targets in these courses are close to the same height.

Having better control of the weapon right to left from a single standing position would have its

advantages.

My reservations at this point (I’m still trying to give this grip a chance and practice with it) is that

a gunfight often consists of shoot, move, reacquire, shoot, move…repeat as necessary.

During the process of moving and reacquisition, I am moving the rifle vertically. The loss of

control during this movement seems to offset any advantage in sweeping motions.

I have included it in this book because I feel there are possibilities that this grip would help some

operators. Different body types, strength and endurance levels are sure to be factors in the

relative success of this grip. Give it a try.

Sight Picture

Traditional wisdom maintains that you place the sights on the target and squeeze the trigger.

This is an obvious, proven technique for many forms of shooting. Even basic military

qualifications use this method.

I don’t do it that way.

I have found in a multiple threat environment where movement is involved, that reversing this

conventional wisdom is more effective. My brain sends the command to pull the trigger and

then I line up the sights. “That’s absolutely insane!” is the typical reaction to my teachings on

the subject, but if you take a moment and think about it, it makes sense in a combat role. In

reality, a better description of the process is:

I am pulling the trigger NOW – you had better get those sights lined up NOW.

The following diagram depicts a dot type weapon’s sight and a target (B). The obvious

movement of the weapon (A) is to the right.


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As the rifle is moving right, I send the command to pull the trigger at “C.” While this illustration

(Figure 4.7) is not intended to be to scale, the method is the same regardless of the target being

higher, lower or to the left.

This is not executed due to the movement of the rifle. I perform the exact same acquisition

OODA loop even if I am in offhand trying to steady on a long-range target. This is really a mental

process that forces my arms to hurry up and align the rifle.


The reason why most shots are missed is the shooter rushes the shot. In timed events,

gunfights, competitions, and other stress-related shooting, pulling the trigger before the barrel

is pointed at the target causes the miss. Traditional training focuses the discipline of acquiring

the target faster, holding steady on target, and then pulling the trigger in a way that doesn’t pull

off the aim. This, at a high level, is three steps or OODA loops of putting down the threat.

My method involves only two steps. When someone is shooting at you, eliminating anything

that takes time, thought, or coordination is an advantage.

If your brain has already issued the command to pull the trigger, you skip the “hold on target”

step. This tactic reduces the OODA loops. Unless you are a veteran of numerous gunfights, this is

what is going to happen anyway. The analysis of countless battles, law enforcement encounters,

and civilian shootings proves this to be true. So if our bodies are programmed to react this way

when threatened, why not embrace it?

The difference between winning and losing then becomes a matter of muscle memory and

control, not technique. The exercises in this book are designed to develop these capabilities.

This point is worth exploring deeper. Take a pencil and paper and slowly try to draw a straight

line. Unless you are an accomplished artist, your line will “squiggle” to some degree. Now

perform the same action, but do so very quickly. Most people will find the resulting line is much

straighter. This is really just simple physics or taking advantage of momentum. The same can be

said of your aim point with the weapon.

A more telling demonstration is included in the section Laser Pointers below.


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Pulling the Trigger

The single biggest mistake I see with most shooters is they put too much finger on the trigger.

My recommendation is to only place as much as your fingernail on the trigger. The reason why is

simple body mechanics. You can pull the tip of your finger straight back much cleaner than if

using the area of the first joint. Practice the motion without a trigger.

The act of pulling, or squeezing the trigger is one of the most common causes of a miss. This

simple motion, even if everything else is perfect, can throw the round off target by several

inches. In a panic, many people yank the trigger, throwing the shot off even more. If your

muscle memory is trained to only use the tip, the capability to yank or pull the shot off line is

reduced.

There is a simple exercise to prove the difference. If you have a pistol equipped with an aiming

laser, dry fire the weapon both ways to see the difference. If you want to practice with a rifle,

several stores have cheap laser pointers that you can attach to your rifle with rubber bands.

Remember, the laser is not for aiming, but simply to show you how much your trigger pull is

affecting accuracy.

Even if you have trained your trigger digit to the Nth degree of pulling straight back, I would still

challenge the repetitive speed at which you can do so. If you implement the suggestions and

techniques in this book, you should soon find that your finger is the slow link in the chain of

events. In this regard, a Shootist becomes very much like a drummer. The speed and control of

that finger becomes the high state of our art. This is similar to how fast the drummer can

manipulate the drumsticks.

While I didn’t include it in the initial evaluation drills, there is an interesting exercise you can

perform to prove this point. Maintaining complete safety procedures, dump a mag out of your

weapon as fast as you can pull the trigger. Do so without regard for hitting any target, and time

the event. You should be able to achieve 3-4 rounds per second. For reference, I generally

execute five rounds per second with a stock 6-8 pound pull AR15 trigger.

How? I have worked hard to be like the drummer and get faster. It does me no good to be fast

acquiring the target and then wait on my finger to execute. An interesting reference for this skill

is available on the internet. If time permits, I suggest you perform a search of Jerry Micluek

videos, more specifically his world record performance in 1999. Mr. Micluek puts 12 rounds into

a steel target in less than 3 seconds. While this feat would be impressive regardless of the pistol


being used, Mr. Micluek performs this task with a 6-shot revolver. He reloads the weapon

during the three seconds. That, my friend, is one fast trigger finger. When I first saw that video, I

was embarrassed. Here my co-workers and I were carrying around weapons with buckets of

ammo hanging underneath, and this guy with a six-shot revolver could put more lead down

range than any of us unless we engaged the happy button (full auto).

Digit Double-Taps

Another process I implemented in my own regimen years ago was the dual trigger pull. My weak

side shooting was always sub-par. The time I spent training seemed to be consumed by some

strong side drill-skill I was trying to master or some goal that seemed just out of reach. The day

would end with my cleaning my weapon and thinking, “I forgot to work on my weak side drills.”

As I analyzed my weak side shooting, I realized one of my biggest issues was the actual trigger

pull. For this reason, I started pulling both fingers at once regardless of which one was actually

on the trigger. The exercise has really helped.

Now, years later, regardless of what I am shooting (pistol or rifle), I pull both index fingers at

once. I jokingly refer to this as a digit double-tap for lack of a better term.

It doesn’t matter if you are shooting a pistol, dry firing in your living room, or practicing at the

range – squeeze with both fingers on every shot. After a few hundred executions, snap the

weapon to the weak side and see if things don’t go smoother.

Zeroing Mid-range Rifles

This is another area where I believe combat shooting is different than target or long-range

shooting. Most riflemen zero their weapons at some fixed distance. Probably the most common

length is 100 meters, but depending on the weapon, caliber, intended use, and other

circumstances, distance to zero may vary.

I don’t zero a battle rifle.

Now before any readers have a coronary and throw this book into the fireplace, let me expand. I

sight my weapon. I use the traditional methods to align my sights horizontally, or left to right. I

do not “zero” my vertical (up and down) apex at a fixed distance. I want it at the exact same

height as the distance from the center of the bore to the center of the crosshairs, dot or post,

depending on what type of optics or sights are attached.


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Why?

I know ballistics, my weapon, and my optic (or sighting system). There are fewer calculations

involved with this system, and in the micro-seconds involved in a fight, I want the fewest cycles

of OODA possible. This topic is worthy of exploring in detail.

The traditional requirement of zeroing a weapon is based upon the fact that the sights, optic,

crosshairs or whatever point of aim being used is physically above the barrel. The picture below

(Figure 4.8) shows an example.

The optic’s straight line of sight (A) is physically 3.08 inches (B) above the barrel. So if a bullet

traveled in an absolutely straight line and the optic were aligned perfectly parallel with the

barrel, the impact of the round would always be exactly 3.08 inches low.

Given that bullets drop at some point after leaving the barrel, our 3.08-inch gap would only

increase as the distance to the target increased.

That bullet drop was one of the original reasons why zeroing was adopted.


The diagram above (Figure 4.9) shows the basic concept of zeroing. The sight line (1) is adjusted

to cross the line of flight of the bullet (2) at a fixed distance. This intersection of bullet and sights

is called the “zero” or “zero point.”

The sights will be high before the zero point (A) and low after the zero point (B). The logic for

using this method was/is easy to justify for several reasons.

First of all, at greater distances the bullet has already begun its descent. A sniper firing on a

target at 1,000 meters may have to deal with a significant “holdover” (B), depending on the

ballistics and weapon being used. The same could be said of a long-distance target shooter or

even some forms of hunting. Modern riflescopes have both a limited field of view and finite

amount of adjustment, thus allowing only so much holdover before the target is no longer

visible through the optic. It is difficult to hit a target you can’t see. If the rifle/scope were zeroed

at 200 meters, then some of the bullet drop would already be compensated for and the

holdover would be less.

Another reason why zeroing is common wisdom is the gap between the optics sight line and the

axis of the barrel is insignificant on many weapons. The front post of iron sights, mounted at the

end of the barrel, is normally less than half an inch above the flight path of the bullet. That small

gap is not enough to cause concern.

The advent of holographic optics, red dots, lasers, ACOG (Advanced Combat Optical Gunsight)

and even plain old riflescopes increased the difference between the sight line (1) and the line of

flight (2). Mr. Stoner’s design of the front post sight on the AR15 family of weapons is another

towering example.

The weapon shown in the picture above (Figure 4.8) is mounted with a holographic weapon’s

sight. The view through the optic (Figure 4.10) looks like this:


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The small dot in the center serves the same function as the traditional crosshairs of a rifle optic.

If properly aligned, it is where the bullet will impact. On this example optic, the dot in the center

is 4 MOA, or Minute of Angle. The section Mandatory Items and Terms contains a detailed

discussion of MOA. For our purposes here, it will suffice to know that at 100 yards, that small

dot will cover a circular area of 4 inches (technically, it is just a bit larger).

As from above, the gap between my optic and the barrel of the rifle is 3.08 inches, or within the

circumference of the optic’s dot. With the 5.56 NATO round (similar ballistics to a .223

Remington), there is under one inch of bullet drop at 100 yards. This means that as long as my

dot covers the target, the bullet should impact what is covered by the dot.


At 200 yards, my fighting ammunition fired from my preferred rifle drops just over 5 inches. The

area covered by my 4 MOA dot now covers 8 inches of the target. If I hold the dot on the top of

the target, my round should impact true.

This method works out to about 250 yards, which is close to the affective range that I would

employ this level of optic and caliber of weapon. While I am well aware of documented kill shots

far beyond this distance using M16/M4 weapons, those circumstances are uncommon. If I were

fighting in open terrain, I would up-caliber to a .308 (7.62) or larger caliber weapon with zeroed

optics.

My primary concern with a mid-range weapon is targets that are danger-close (within 50 meters

or less.) If the threat is at a great distance, I have time to react, judge distance and holdover.

Inside of that distance, I want my reaction shot sent as fast as possible. I don’t want to think

about anything but putting the dot on the threat and eliminating it.

Your weapon’s caliber or selection of optic may perform better if zeroed at a fixed distance. If

so, the section Zeroing Mid-Range Rifles below should provide sound advice.

Reloads – Tactical and Strategic

Of all of the skills associated with gunfighting, reloading a magazine is the one that will

immediately separate the men from the boys. As an instructor, this has always puzzled me. One

could argue other remedial actions may or may not be required, but it is as certain as death and

taxes that you will have to jam in a full mag at some point in time. It doesn’t matter if it is a

training course, drill, exercise, competition, or actual combat, you will have to feed that blaster.

There should be no difference in your first few actions for either a tactical or a strategic reload.

Your body should execute identical steps in getting the new mag home.

The tactical reload is executed when the weapon locks back empty. This is called “at battery.”

The strategic reload is performed when the operator believes the weapon is almost empty, and

the situation allows for a preemptive swap to a full box of bullets. A strategic reload is always

preferred as even the simplest acts can be difficult under fire.

I have heard some “experts” advising operators to count the rounds being used during a fight,

and execute the reload before the weapon goes to battery. Theoretically, this saves the step of

releasing the bolt to feed the new round. I have never been able to accomplish an accurate


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round count during non-combat operations, let alone when actually engaged. Perhaps you can

accomplish this feat, but I wouldn’t “count” on it.

Another questionable method I’ve heard prescribed is to load two tracer rounds into the

magazine first. The concept being that the operator would see the tracer rounds and know the

mag was close to empty. I have never adopted this practice because I have found tracer rounds

to be unreliable, especially in the daylight, and I don’t want to reveal my position any more than

necessary. Tracer rounds are like a big neon sign pointing right back to the shooter.

Performing a mag change is one of the easiest remedial actions to practice. There are a variety

of prescribed grips and methods, and frankly, I haven’t found any particular one significantly

better than any other. Below are a few tips that will make the process much smoother. Always

remember:

Smooth is Fast

Store mags on your chest rig, or wherever, pointed the same direction as insertion.

You should learn to release the empty from the rifle at the same time you are reaching for

the full one on your chest rig.

After release, your trigger finger should go back to parallel with the barrel. On most battle

rifles, this means that finger is close to the magazine well. Use that spacing to train your

muscle memory for the insertion.

Don’t be gentle with the magazine insertion, and don’t slam it in either. On some weapons,

I have seen a vigorous insertion cause the mag to bounce off of the rifle and not catch

properly. A good, medium force insertion should produce better results.

Once the fresh mag has been inserted, tug down on it once to verify it is fully inserted. A

partially inserted mag can cause failure to feed (FTF) or an empty chamber. The time taken

to tug on the mag is minimal compared to clearing a FTF.

Once you verified the mag is fully inserted, I always execute the same steps regardless of

strategic or tactical reload. On the AR platform, I perform the following:

o I slap the “ping pong paddle,” otherwise known as the bolt release, with the palm

of my hand. I do this with an open hand as I often shoot with gloves on, and finding

the little control with a finger can be difficult.


o I tilt the rifle slightly to the weak side and slap the forward assist. If you are not

using an AR, then this step is unnecessary. What I am really doing is glancing down

at the bolt to make sure it is all the way forward.

The topic of reloads is hot and heavy in the shooting world. The internet is full of videos, blogs,

and other sources recommending various methods.

One such example that seems to be very popular right now is often referred to as the Magpul

Method. The name comes from the well-known company that produces excellent magazines

and other accessories for war fighters. Magpul produced a series of videos for rifle training and

a unique method of “flipping” the empty magazine from the rifle was demonstrated.

At first glance, this appeared to be a timesaving tactic. In addition, it allows the operator to

verify the cause of the bolt locking at battery to be an empty mag as opposed to a stove pipe,

failure to feed, or other type of jam. The logic being that as the operator tilted the rifle to the

weak side; he could check the chamber and then “flip” the rifle quickly to the strong side,

causing the mag to go flying out of the rifle.

On the videos, this method was demonstrated by Travis Harley, a well-known and respected

instructor. I’ve never met Mr. Harley, but I have watched several of his instructional videos and

agree with the vast majority of his teachings. The discussion below is not to agree or disagree

with Mr. Harley or this topic; it is intended to provide an example of how a Shootist can

evaluate any new tactic, method, or equipment.

Whenever something new like this comes along, I perform an analysis along these lines:

1. Will it work at night?

2. Will it work with all potential shooting positions?

3. Does it reduce the number of OODA loops?

4. Does it solve a problem or circumstance that I encounter?

5. Will it make my kit lighter or allow me to last longer in the field?

6. How long will it take me to adopt the new method or equipment?

One of the primary justifications for the “Magpul Fling” is to allow the operator the check the

chamber. This, on the surface, seems sage. When an operator squeezes the trigger and the

weapon doesn’t go boom, there can be a variety of reasons why. Most commonly, the weapon

is empty. In addition, if there is a jam of some nature, shoving in a new magazine can

complicate the problem, or so goes the justification for this maneuver.


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To begin with, I can’t check the chamber at night. The extra OODA loop involved provides no

advantage if I can’t see the chamber. Even if night operations are not a concern, the Shootist

looks at this rationalization a little differently than most folks do. For example, my weapons are

tuned to the point where failures are extremely rare. The Shootist simply will not tolerate an

unreliable weapon. With modern battle rifles, there is no reason to accept less. Even in the

grainy, talcum powder environment of the Middle East, failure is not that common. The

Shootist will ask if the extra step of checking the chamber is justified – back to that old OODA

loop process.

To expand on this analysis further, we should take the point that loading a new mag into a

jammed up weapon makes the problem worse. Again, my experience says this isn’t a common

occurrence. If the brass has stove piped, a term used to describe an empty cartridge stuck in the

ejection port, my experience has been that a mag change won’t make the situation worse. As a

matter of fact, it often clears the issue without further action. The Shootist pays attention, even

to the ultra-rare failure and what actions were required to clear the problem and get back into

the fight. Many types of failures wouldn’t allow the new box to seat. Other types of failures will

allow the mag to lock home, but the bolt won’t release all the way forward. None of these

situations are complicated by a new mag. The actions to clear the weapon are the same, empty

mag, old mag or new mag.

One advantage touted in the digital world is that the ejection of the empty mag will occur with

less chance of it becoming “stuck” in the rifle. Again, the Shootist looks at this potential

problem from a different point of view. All of my mags will fall freely from my rifles. If they

don’t, they either are sanded down or thrown away. I know this to be true regardless if my

weapon hasn’t been cleaned for 4,000 rounds, the air is damp or dry, or I’m operating in 115

degree heat. I have practiced, dry fired, drilled and worked with my primary tool enough to

know the magazine will fall 99.9 percent of the time. The Shootist asks himself, “Is it worth that

extra action on every mag change to solve a problem that so rarely occurs? Is the extra OODA

loop justified?”

Another question asked by the Shootist revolves around different shooting positions. In the

case of this new method of mag change, the prone shooting position was a showstopper. That

means I have two different techniques to train with and additional OODA loops to process.

Again, the point here is not to trash or criticize any creative or new technique. In fact, my level

of respect for people who develop these new methods is high. They are thinking and always

trying to improve the art. This is the mindset of a professional. The Shootist approaches these


evolutions with an open mind and evaluates them within the parameters of typical operation.

Agreement or consensus is not the objective – taking the time to perform the analysis is.

Many people pull the weapon down from the shoulder to execute a reload. I’ve seen many

competent instructors teach the concept of the workspace, which refers to the area from the

collarbone down to mid-sternum, directly in front of the shooter. This is a valid method and

difficult to find fault with, especially in low light.

Some operators prefer to keep the weapon shouldered and execute the mag change at that

level. This method requires more arm strength, as you would be supporting the rifle with one

hand. This method also limits visual input to the operator in regards to shoving one rectangle

into another. There is benefit to this method in keeping your eyes on the threat, and the

chances of “flagging” a team member or friendly are reduced.

If you were to go into battle with experienced operators, you would see both methods being

employed. It is really up to the individual. Again, smooth is fast, and practice makes perfect.


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Chapter 5

Off-range Trigger Time

Physical conditioning is an important consideration for anyone’s shooting skills, and especially so

the aspirant Anhur. Years ago, I read a section in one of Colonel Jeff Cooper’s benchmark works.

It essentially advised to select a weapon based on the capability to hold the rifle with one hand,

arm fully extended, for 60 seconds.

While I never quite understood the logic of that specific position, the point was well taken –

don’t choose any tool you can’t handle or wield. While this is excellent advice for the typical

person, a Shootist looks at the subject a little differently.

If there is a weapon I feel will help me win the gunfight, and I’m not strong enough to use it

properly, then I will increase my strength to the point where I can perform with the tool.

Obviously, there are limits to how much weight anyone can lift. An M1 Abrahams Tank would

win practically any gunfight, but I can’t carry one around on my back no matter how many visits

to the gym I make.

For years, I trained with the AR15 family of weapons. With a few exceptions, these rifles top the

scales at 10.5 pounds fully loaded and equipped. Some time ago, I decided I required a .308

(7.62 x 51 NATO) for desert and open terrain operations. These weapons, fully loaded and

equipped, can top 12 lbs.

Most folks would think that a mere two pounds of additional weight would be child’s play to a

robust, high speed, low drag individual. Most folks would be wrong. I, for reasons unimportant

now, decided on the AR10 platform. As I began training with the weapon, I realized that

seemingly insignificant amount of poundage was making me less effective in a combat situation.

I was young, strong and in excellent physical condition, and yet I felt like I was moving in slow

motion as I tried to acclimate myself with the new blaster.

It took a lot of work, but eventually I became almost as proficient with the heavy weapon as my

lightweight, M4 Carbines. During that time, I would hit the rack after training for the day and

realize my body was sore. It was a similar experience to working out with weights at the gym. I

was building muscle.


After weeks of preparing to use the AR10, I decided to spend the day with my old friend, the

M4. The experience was an eye opener. The firearm felt almost weightless in my hands. My drill

times and accuracy skills improved dramatically. My threshold of shooters fatigue was raised

significantly.

Now I stay in pretty good physical condition. A few pounds here or there is a small percentage of

the weight used in my normal exercise routines. Why did it make so much difference with a

rifle? The answer is obviously centered on which muscles/tendons were being used. My exercise

routine with iron was not addressing the parts of my body required for shooting.

This presented a dilemma. My days are full. I have a family, job and commitments – how could I

possibly work in additional exercise routines without sacrificing somewhere else? I realized I

would have to combine rifle-based weight training with another ritual – kill two birds with one

stone, if you will.

I won’t bore the reader with my initial attempts to develop something that worked - partially

because it doesn’t matter, but mostly out of embarrassment. Let it suffice to say that I suffered

some epic failures, and a few of my attempts were downright dangerous. One effort worthy of

note was an early attempt to rig a weight to the barrel of my rifle. The weight came loose, and I

was nanoseconds from sending a 63 grain bullet flying down the tube, directly into the lead

weight blocking the barrel. I’m not sure what would have happened, but I can’t imagine the

results would have been positive.

Eventually, the solution was simple, and like the answer to most problems, somewhat obvious.

The sections below expand on that resolution and what I believe is one of the most critical

components of becoming a Shootist.

Dry Firing

Everyone has a busy life and tight schedule. This, combined with the cost of ammunition, makes

it difficult to train or practice with your weapons. While there is no substitute for going out and

training with live ammo, there are exercises you can do in the comfort of your own home that

will increase your proficiency with any weapon. Years ago, I found out that many Special Forces

operators dry fire their weapons on a daily basis. I decided to give it a try, and it works.


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One of the great mysteries of the shooting universe is why more people don’t develop a routine

that improves their skills without going to the range. I know golfers who spend countless hours

with swing tools, whiffle balls, and other off-course training. Practically any skill involving

hand/eye coordination and muscle memory can be improved by various methods that don’t

involve the actual execution of the activity.

Shooting is no different.

Dry firing is exactly what it implies – you operate the weapon with a snap cap, empty chamber,

or even a spent round. A cap is a dummy round that keeps the firing pin from slamming into an

empty chamber, which some experts believe can harm the weapon over the long term. Since

certain weapons can be damaged by this act, snap caps were developed.

As the picture (Figure 5.1) shows (courtesy of Wikimedia Commons) there are several calibers

and designs available. You can purchase snap caps at practically any sporting goods or firearms

store for a few dollars. Even if you don’t believe dry firing will harm your specific weapon, these

little devils can enhance several different training routines. They will be referenced throughout

this work.


Another helpful tool for improving skills is an ankle weight. In reality, any one to two pound

weight that can be securely fastened to the weapon will do. I have found baseball swing weights

work well with some rifles while ankle weights are the best match for others.

For working with a long gun, I have found a soft, flexible weight of about two pounds is best.

Various models can be obtained at most sporting goods stores for a few dollars. They can be

securely attached almost anywhere on the weapon via the included straps.

The logic for using a weight is obvious. Just like a baseball bat, tennis racquet, or golf club,

practicing with a heavier item builds muscle, balance, and endurance. If you execute the drills

below with a weight onboard, you will find you can train longer with less fatigue and your drill

times will improve. My 7.5-pound M4 Carbine feels like a feather after working out with a

weight.

WARNING – Don’t shoot with any sort weight attached to your weapon. Gun barrels become

hot enough to catch many types of material on fire. Weights can shift and block the muzzle.

The combination of snap-caps, weight, and a few drills can make a huge difference. Even though

I shoot a couple thousand rounds a month, I continue to execute a weekly routine, and it helps

keep my skills sharp.


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The Rifle Dance

In my first fiction novel, Holding Their Own, one of the characters practices what is referred to

as “The Rifle Dance.” Without delving into any Zen-like philosophies, let it be said that my dry

fire drills have become more than just a muscle-building exercise. This workout enables the

weapon to feel like an extension to my own body, as much as such a thing is possible. After a

few weeks of executing the steps below, you should experience a significant improvement in

practically any live-fire drill.

Here is my weekly routine:

Follow all firearm safety rules!

Double-check that the weapon is unloaded.

Load two magazines with a few snap caps each.

20 repetitions of bringing the weapon up, acquiring a target (normally a picture on the

wall) and firing. Pick an angle or target positioned so that even if the weapon fires, you

won’t shoot the family in the other room watching TV.

20 more reps left handed.

20 reps of firing, then switching magazines and chambering a new round (cap).

Repeat, left handed.

Place weight onto the barrel and do 10 reps, with each hand, of bringing the weapon up

and firing.

Keeping the weight on the weapon, hold the weapon in firing position for a count of 20.

I do this 10 times with each side.

Keeping the bat weight on the weapon, hold the weapon in firing position with one

hand and count to 20. I do this 5 times with each hand.

While this may sound easy to many shooters, I suggest you try it. I found that my arms started

shaking as I got muscle fatigue. At first, it was difficult to hold the weapon on target with the

weights. I also found that doing the exercises one-handed was a chore at first. After about two

months, I could accomplish my basic routine without too much effort.

Later, I started timing myself on the mag changes. If you follow a tight schedule, it goes

something like this:

1. Click timer on wristwatch (or whatever you choose to use).

2. Bring weapon up and dry fire.


3. Eject the mag and let it drop to the floor.

4. Clear the weapon.

5. Insert new mag and chamber a snap cap.

6. Bring weapon up and dry fire.

7. Eject the mag, bend over, and pick up the first one.

8. Repeat 4 – 7.

This exercise will help with several skills, not the least of which is that in a gunfight, you

probably won’t be standing straight up, so bending over simulates movement and balance, as

well as helping you get familiar with your sling and how it feels.

Timing adds stress, and while it is not the same stress as a real fight, any stress in training will

help later.

Why shoot one-handed? Over 70% of the injuries police officers suffer in gunfights are to their

hands or arms. If you get hit or have an arm you can’t control anymore, you either know how to

continue one-handed, or you are out of the fight. Another reason why you should become

skilled one-handed is that houses have doors, drapes and other obstructions that you may need

to use a hand to open. What if you have to hold a flashlight?

Doing dry fire exercises improved my shooting time by over 20% when running drills. That can

be the difference between life and death in a gunfight. The weight training helped my offhand

shooting considerably.

Weight Training

While there is little doubt any sort of physical conditioning improves a person’s capabilities in a

fight, there is one specific exercise that I seldom see recommended, and yet it has improved my

shooting in measurable ways.


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During my normal workout, I take two dumbbells and hold them vertically. The grip is

surprisingly similar to my rifle’s pistol grip. I hold the two weights in my shooting stance (Figure

5.3 above) and count for a number of seconds (I use 20).

At first, I started using 10 lb. weights, but this didn’t seem to pose much of a challenge. My rifle

still felt heavier. How can a 7.5 lb. rifle feel heavier than 20 lbs. of iron? I’m not sure why, but it

does. I switched to 25 lb. weights, and that became a workout.

The effort here is not to build muscle, but endurance. Most people start to tremble after holding

the rifle for a short period of time in the offhand position. This is why any sort of braced hold is

considered more accurate.

I, for one, never wanted to count on having a good support for my weapon in a gunfight.

As stated herein, I don’t like going prone and losing my mobility. Taking a knee is an option, but

that position has its limitations of mobility as well.

Firing accurately offhand gives you the best combination of mobility, reaction time, and

flexibility of cover. Any type of weight training you can do to improve your endurance and

manage the recoil of the weapon (for faster target acquisition on follow-up shots) is of benefit

to the Shootist.


There is another advantage to this exercise. As pointed out in the section on stances, I torque

my rifle downward against my weak side (left for me) hand. This exercise strengthens my left

arm and allows me to remain in the above described position for longer periods of time without

fatigue.

Laser Pointers

Another at home training exercise involves using lasers. I don’t use aiming lasers on my long

guns, but my pistols have them built into the grips. The laser turns on and off by squeezing the

grip. I run a little drill where you pick five targets, like a vase, mirror, picture, or fencepost. You

simply bring the weapon up to firing position and engage the laser to see if you are on target.

The laser won’t lie. This helps with acquisition shooting skills. Again, you can use a timer and

have competitions between friends to add stress.

As mentioned above in section Pulling the Trigger, many office supply stores sell very

inexpensive laser pointers. The one pictured below was actually purchased in a gas station for

$9.

Two rubber bands attach it to the rifle barrel, and while neither accurate, nor intended for

aiming, it does make a reasonable training tool. I mount mine on the weak side of the fore grip

where my thumb naturally rests. You should fiddle with your setup and mount the laser where

you can reach the on/off switch without messing up the initial point of aim.


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Once the laser pointer is attached to the weapon, the exercise is simple. Pick four or five

random targets in your home or backyard - a doorknob, vase, light switch on the wall, etc. With

the laser off, quickly acquire what you believe is the aim point without using the sights. Just

snap the weapon up as if you were initially addressing a threat. Without moving, turn on the

laser. Make note of where the laser indicates you initially aimed in regards to the target.

Most people will be consistent in where their brain thinks the weapon is aimed versus where

the laser actually points. I, for example, consistently aim left and down from the target. At 25

meters, I am about two inches left and one inch down.

A key point of this instruction is: Don’t adjust your aim – adjust your stance and grip.

Before I learned this important lesson, I made the mistake of correcting my perceived aim point.

After a few dozen iterations, I started over-compensating and going high and right. Most

operators will do exactly the same.

The proper reaction to this laser-generated feedback is to adjust your stance and grip – not your

natural, reactionary point of aim (NPA). I found on a rifle that if I moved my off hand about one

inch forward, my eye-hand coordination was almost perfect. Years later, after requiring

eyeglasses to read, I had to move my off hand back to the original starting point.


Over time, I’ve found that practically every human being’s reactionary point of aim is nearly

perfect. Unless an individual is grossly uncoordinated, the ability to point at a specific target is

something we develop as infants. The wise instructor (or shooter) doesn’t attempt to modify

this gift, but rather works on adjusting everything else around it.

Tip – Attach the laser where you can activate it without changing your grip on the

weapon. The purpose of the drill is to improve immediate acquisition or the initial

pointing of the weapon at a target.


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Chapter 6

Fixed Range Trigger Time

One of the most common training facilities is a fixed distance shooting range. Some of these

businesses provide indoor and/or outdoor shooting lanes for both pistol and rifle. While indoor

rifle facilities are less common, they do exist.

Fixed distance ranges have several uses for both rifle and pistol shooters. They are excellent

locations to zero in a riflescope, align pistol sights, and refine basic marksmanship skills.

Unfortunately for those wanting a PhD in lead delivery, their restrictions often limit movement,

target types, and shooting positions. Many ranges allow for standing or bench rest only. It is rare

to find a fixed length range that allows operators to freely move around while training.

There are, however, some drills and exercises that can be performed at all but the strictest of

these facilities and will improve combat shooting skills. The following sections outline some of

the options I use to keep tuned up when these are the only facilities available to me.

The Numbers Game

I primarily use this drill for pistol work. Most quality indoor ranges will allow for distances of up

to 25 yards and have pre-printed paper targets you can purchase. Find or make a target that

resembles the one shown below (Figure 6.1).


Some ranges carry pre-printed targets that contain multiple common geometric shapes such as

circles or triangles. These can work as well – just write a number in the shape.

The next step is to pre-record someone reading a series of numbers. Using the example above, I

might record the follow sequence: “3 – 6 – 1 – 1 – 5 – 6 – 4 – 1” for the eight rounds in my 1911

pistol.

Since most cell phones have a built in voice recorder, I just use that. If your phone doesn’t have

this capability, any tape recorder will do.

I substitute one ear protection bud with the ear bud for the phone and crank up the volume.

One word of caution – most indoor ranges are louder and thus require better hearing

protection. You can always put a set of muffs over the top of the ear bud.


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When I am shooting using this method, I acquire the target called out by the pre-recorded voice.

You will notice in the example above that the number “1” is called out three times while other

numbers are used once or twice. This is intentional so as to keep me from cheating. Using the

sequence of numbers above, I should see three holes in the #1 circle when I run the target back

in.

The speed at which you record your target selection should increase over time. I actually have

ten different recordings on my cell phone that progressively become faster.

This drill will improve target acquisition times while restricted to a lane-based shooting

experience. While the barrel movement between number 1 and number 6 is not significant, it’s

the mental capability of picking the right target that receives a workout.

You can perform this same drill with a rifle.

My advice as an instructor is not to focus on accuracy, but time. If the round is within the circle,

even on the very edge, chances are it was a center mass hit. If your shots are all dead center of

the circles, speed up your shots. Again, you will hear this same theme repeated throughout this

book – you are better off hitting the edge of three attackers in two seconds than hitting one

attacker dead center in the same amount of time. Your perfect first shot won’t mean a thing as

your vision goes black and you fall to the ground.

The Numbers Game – Variants and Deviations

If an outdoor, non-restricted facility is available, you can place multiple numbered targets

requiring greater barrel movement (arch) and thus more realistic conditions.

Another variant is to mix up the numbers, rather than have them move right to left, top to

bottom, in order. This exercises target identification skills even more.

You can compete with yourself both in times and in accuracy. A shooting timer or friend with a

stopwatch can help you track how long it takes to execute each sequence. Sub-circles inside of

each number can assist with accuracy measurements. Time, to some degree, is stress. While not

the same as a gunfight, any shooting under duress improves your chances of target acquisition.


Chapter 7

Shooting and Cover

Except in the movies, nobody stands toe-to-toe and dukes it out with modern firearms. I have to

wonder if anyone really ever did outside of military campaigns. While the rate of fire and

accuracy of weapons, up to and including the Civil War, dictated the skirmish line to be the

preferred method of battle formation, since then it would be pure suicide to line up and

approach the objective. The Chinese tried this method during the Korean War and were often

decimated. Today, even without heavy weapons, standing straight up and engaging a well-

armed opponent would result in your being mowed down like grass.

In addition, the utilization of cover is more than just common sense – it’s human nature.

While this is not a book on tactical maneuver, the two topics overlap. How you train should

mimic how you fight. This translates into anyone who trains requiring some knowledge of

fighting and cover. While this section is in no way an in-depth instruction in tactical movement,

it does cover enough of the basics to properly tailor a training regimen.

The Barrier

For the purposes of this writing, I will use the term “barrier” to describe any above ground

cover. This could be a wall, a tree, a berm…it really doesn’t matter.

The first mistake most inexperienced shooters make is crowding the barrier. There are several

reasons why this is not a recommended approach.


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Position A in the diagram above is incorrect. Position B is correct. The distance between the

shooter and the barrier should be just a little over the length of the shooter’s weapon.

The picture above illustrates the correct position. The shooter is behind the cover a little over

the length of the barrel (A). In order to shoot over the cover, the weapon is aligned to the threat


while concealed, and then the shooter can move up and down (B) without having to waste time

moving the weapon on a horizontal axis.

This is an important point for all target acquisition motions, regardless if cover is being used or

not. If acquiring the target involves either a horizontal motion or a vertical motion, then time is

wasted. Executing a two axis movement (horizontal and vertical) takes more time, muscle

control and doubles the chances of a missed shot.

The starting position of the weapon doesn’t matter. If the weapon is slung, the first step (left

foot for a right-handed shooter) should be at the target. If your body position is correct, the

weapon will be raised on a vertical line to the threat. Your brain only has to deal with the

dimension of height. This skill manifests itself in the Flying Saucers Drill.

After throwing the disk, the secret is to bring the forward foot into a position of alignment, or

NPA, first. If proper NPA is achieved as the first body motion, aligning the weapon on the vertical

axis is the only significant action required to hit the shot.

The same principle of executing a single action can be applied even when the weapon is starting

at the low ready position. Once the rifle is shouldered, the only adjustment is on the horizontal

axis (minor height adjustments not withstanding).

Going back to the example of using cover, the following sequence of photos depicts this point.


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There are several reasons for this:

1. The shooter will have to fire around or over (around is always better) the barrier. The

time spent moving the rifle barrel in an arch to clear the barrier increases the time the

shooter is exposed. If the shooter doesn’t crowd the barrier, he can simply rise, fire, and

lower without moving the rifle.

2. The distance between the shooter and the barrier lessens the profile of the shooter

from every angle but height.

3. As the pictures above show, it is faster to engage multiple threats at different angles if

you give yourself some room while behind cover.

Even if you are firing around (versus over) a barrier, crowding the cover is a bad idea. The whole

concept of using cover is to reduce your exposure to the threat. Most people struggle with

keeping arms, legs, and feet hidden as they pop out to engage. The pictures below emphasize

this point.

Photographs A and B are both taken from a camera in a fixed position on a tri-pod. The target

was identical in both pictures. If you were in a gunfight, which profile would you prefer to give

to your opponent? The only difference in my shooting position was that I crowded the cover in

photo A. On the right photo, I was back about 20 inches. I had the same field of fire in both


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scenarios. Had I not intentionally had my head above the cover, you would have had difficulty

picking me out of picture B and the shadows.

As covered in the section, Stance, when being shot at, it is human nature to want to hide behind

something - anything. Many people will instinctively want to hug any available cover. It takes

training and mental discipline to stay back a few feet, but it could save your life in a gunfight.

Shooting Sideways

Many people have seen Hollywood movies where some guy turns his autoloader pistol sideways

(flat) and starts firing. This method of sidearm manipulation is ridiculous, if not absurd. While

turning a pistol on its side and firing is not logical, turning a rifle on its side and firing is used by

experienced combat shooters.

Most quality firearms instruction classes have the operators shoot underneath an automobile or

similar low clearance barrier. They teach turning the rifle on its side as a method to gain a few

degrees of angle or as a method to aim the weapon properly when the body is in certain

positions.

A more common scenario where sideways shooting provides an advantage is when shooting

over a barrier. As the pictures below show, turning a long gun sideways when rising up from

behind cover gives any threat a significantly smaller target. The shooter exposes 30% less of his

head, and that can make a difference.


It still makes sense to avoid crowding cover if shooting around versus over. The photographs

above were taken from a fixed camera position with identical aim points.

The Dreaded Corner

Most people who experience urban combat hate corners. There are so many variables involved

in this simple intersection of ninety degree angles it can be overwhelming during the fog of

battle.

What is the construction material of the walls, and does that create a realistic bullet stop? The

answer to this question on practically every building is, “No.” Bullets will penetrate all but the

most robust building materials. The Hollywood version of corner shooting consists of some soul

poking his head around to scope out the threat. In real life, you would only do this if the walls

will stop bullets. If you switch sides for a moment and place yourself in the position of waiting

for someone to round the corner, it’s easy to see why this method won’t work. If I see a head


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poke around a corner of the typical wall, I am going to put rounds into the wall. It’s a relatively

easy mental exercise to plot the geometry involved and walk three or four rounds into the

structure waist high. The guy trying to round the corner will most likely be out of the fight.

Depending on the weapons at my disposal and the structure involved, I might choose to simply

eat the corner away with 10-15 rounds. This method is effective on all but the heaviest of

construction.

The most common method of handling corners is to “pie” the corner. This term has nothing to

do with the mathematical “pi.” The term references clearing a doorway or corner by slicing off

small angles at a time – thus slicing the pie.

The diagram below shows an example of this tactic. The numbered circles indicate the

progression the shooter would make as the corner was sliced geometrically.

Again, this is not a book on maneuver or small unit tactics, but the topic does integrate with our

core subject matter. If you visualize the maneuver above, you will quickly realize a right-handed

shooter would pie the corner with the weapon on the weak (left) side. Operators who never

train with the weak side put themselves and their team at risk.


This avoids exposing oneself to anyone lurking around the corner.

There are countless tactical situations where shooting from a non-traditional position gives you

an advantage, yet so many people never practice with these positions.

Experts on close quarter battle, or CQB, learn a variety of techniques to clear a building or room.

The infamous British Special Air Service is credited by many with having developed the first

“killing house” to train their operators. This mockup of a typical suburban home contains

mannequins and other props used to teach the skills necessary to execute in such an

environment. Today, many modern law enforcement and military units train using similar

facilities and scenarios.

At the core of all of the various methods and tactics is being able to put lead on target from a

variety of shooting positions. The diagram below shows two very simple examples (Figure 7.7):

The subject of CBQ and urban combat is complex, and many military organizations have entire

schools devoted to the topic. If you take a moment and visualize how you would hold your

weapon, move your feet, and react in these types of maneuvers, you will see that the basic skills

required to operate in and around man-made structures can all be improved using the drills and

techniques described herein.


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Chapter 8

Moving Targets

Zip Line - Deviations and Stress

The zip line, described in the previous section, Evaluation, can be adjusted to provide several

different training tools.

There are dozens of variations you can implement to add stress. One of my personal favorites is

to have multi-colored balloons, with only one color being a valid target. This exercise is the

reverse of the Hostage Balloon Drill. Here are some others:

Have two colors of balloons with two shooters. Each is assigned a specific color on the

zip line. This becomes a contest and adds stress. Wagering for lunch can add even more

stress.

You can run the zip line at a 90-degree angle, or directly toward or away from the

shooter. This adds complexity to the exercise as the operator has to work against an

approaching or egressing target.

The size of the balloons as well as the distance can add stress and challenge to the

training. Very small targets obviously require more skill to hit. Longer distances increase

the challenge as well.

Have the shooter pop the brake balloon and then require movement before taking out

the targets. One of my favorites is having the shooter pop the brake balloon, and then

take a knee before hitting the targets. Having the shooter pop the brake and then run a

few steps, take a knee or shoot around cover works well.

Have an instructor call out colors as the string of targets moves down the line.

Start off with a single round in the weapon, pop the brake and then insert a magazine

before engaging the remaining targets.

Roll a thin layer of tape around the zip line in a couple of places. This interrupts the

otherwise smooth pathway of the trolley, causing it to jerk as it moves down the line.

This can be very frustrating.


The Radical Robot

In a gunfight, threats rarely move in a straight line – especially under fire. Recreating the same

movements as a human trying to duck, zigzag, and generally avoid being shot is one of the most

difficult challenges for a trainer.

One solution, adopted in recent years, has been the use of Airsoft, or plastic pellet guns. Several

military installations and some private contracting firms have invested in these pseudo-weapons

for training purposes. Some hardcore paintball advocates would advise that their “game” helps

with mobile target acquisition, and that would be difficult to debate.

To reiterate, any training of this nature is better than nothing. However, I have participated in

both of these types of simulations and have some fundamental issues with them.

First of all, there is a different mindset involved with facing a stinging paintball versus a 5.56

NATO round traveling at over 3,000 feet per second. My kids experience this same mental

invincibility when they play first person shooter video games. Being hit sucks, but the player will

regenerate and get another chance. The same applies to being hit with plastic pellets. It might

sting a little, but the player is still going to attempt maneuvers that I wouldn’t dream of trying if

facing real bullets. This can lead to some dangerous habits in the worst case, and unrealistic

movements at best.

My second problem with relying exclusively on this sort of training is the accuracy and fire rates

of both types of weapons. Both are only effective within 35-50 meters while a real combat

situation, in non-urban terrain, is over if an armed villain gets that close. For shoot houses,

urban training centers, and interior clearing, however, they can be valid, helpful training tools.

My final concern is that this sort of training is typically more effective in team, squad, or group-

based exercises. Our assumption in this book is that you’re training as an individual or with a

single shooting buddy. So what is a good method of recreating a person’s movement under the

duress of coming under fire? I have found remote control children’s toys provide an excellent,

robust target system.


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You can purchase these RC (remote control) vehicles at practically any store that sells toys. For

our purposes, the bigger the toy you can afford, the better. Since these units will most likely see

service in pastures, desert sand, and other unpaved areas, the larger robots will perform better.


The frames of these little off-road wonders vary. Using a little creativity and a coat hanger (or

similar wire), you should be able to create a “post” or “flagpole.” You simply tie one or more

balloons to the post, and you have a controllable, fast-moving target. If you plan on doing most

of your training alone, you should pay special attention to the remote, specifically if the machine

can be manipulated somehow while you are solo. I have had two of these little torture devices,

and I found the best way to operate them solo was to move the joystick with my boot while I

was shooting. The natural movement of my foot provided some sporadic behavior from the little

menace no matter how steady I tried to hold my foot. Another method is to tie a rubber band to

the joystick and let the terrain steer the little booger.

Tip – Don’t bother getting fancy with the mast. You will hit it with a round on occasion.

If you are using a coat hanger (like the example above), take a few spares with you.

Tip – Take spare batteries for both the controller and the toy. Nothing sucks worse than

to run out of juice while having a blast, shooting at the little devil.

Tip – The bigger the wheels on the RC, the more rugged the terrain it will handle.

Absolutely the best way to utilize these moving tormentors is to have a shooting buddy. An evil,

mean, and crafty shooting buddy adds to the fun. Given the speed, target size (how big you blow

up the balloons) and terrain, you will find this type of training one of the most frustrating ever.

Over time, you will appreciate it as one of the most beneficial as well.

We have developed several different contests utilizing these battery-powered demons. One of

the most entertaining we call the “Circle of Death Drill.”

In this exercise, a perimeter is defined in some manner. This can be an outline of tin cans, sticks

laid on the ground, or a line drawn in the sand. The goal is to hit the robotic target before the

driver can breach the perimeter. While this sounds simple enough, it can be a challenging

contest.

You can create all kinds of contests. Another favorite is to define an open area in front of the

operator. The driver’s job is to get the robot from one side to the other. The operator’s

challenge is to pop the target(s) before the little machine crosses the “finish line.” If the driver is

wise, he will vary speeds, zigzag and maneuver to avoid defeat.


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The Radical Robot - Deviations and Stress

Using cover for both the shooter and the robot adds several layers of difficulty to this training

method. The shooter, for example, should be required to fire from cover using both strong and

weak side stances.

Providing the robot some cover to duck behind, or retreat to increases the torture as well.

Another deviation is jousting. Like the medieval contest of old, the robot and the shooter start

at opposite ends of the field with the goal being to arrive first at “the flag,” or some marked area

designating victory. Of course, the robot can’t shoot back (we are working on this), but should it

beat the trainee to the flag with its targets intact then the person controlling the machine wins.

You can also use different colored balloons, designating that only certain colors are a valid

target. If the wrong color of balloon is struck, then points are deducted or the bet is lost. The

loser in any wager having to police up spent brass is a great motivator.

Speaking of a point system, you can assign points to different sized balloons on the robot. This is

a little unscientific as it is difficult to inflate the balloons to exact sizes, but it does add

competition to the training. Competition is stress, and competency under stress is our overall

goal.

Flying Saucers

Flying Saucers – Deviation and Stress

The Frisbee Drill alone induces enough stress to have worth for training purposes. One variant

that can increase difficulty is to have a shooting buddy throw two discs of different colors with

only one being a valid target. This is not a very practical drill, however, unless the thrower is

quite good with tossing a Frisbee. The reload on the thrower’s part normally takes too long.

Another option that is more realistic is to have someone throw the target while the shooter’s

back is turned. A word of caution:

Don’t try this unless you are an expert with muzzle control and safety.


Speaking of safety, I eventually require my operators to throw the target with the weapon’s

safety engaged. This invokes excellent discipline and makes the operation of the safety second

nature.

Since performing the Flying Saucers Drill requires an extra special shooting location (given the

range of most rounds and the height at which you typically shoot at the disk), many readers

won’t be able to attempt this training. There is an alternative that is similar and more available

to the typical recreational shooter.

The sporting event of trap and more importantly skeet are common. Most cities have numerous

choices when it comes to these shotgun-based shooting activities. If you believe the Flying

Saucers Drill will be of benefit, but don’t have access to the proper area in which to shoot, you

can set up a shotgun and execute a drill that is almost as good.

The key to gaining the benefit from using a shotgun is the optics. Many combat scatterguns have

a 1913 rail mounted on top similar to an M4 or AR15. Regardless of what the primary battle rifle

is, if you are using optics of any kind, you should be able to simulate the sight pattern and thus

the acquisition using the much shorter-range shotgun. You should mount the same optics on the

shotgun as you use on your fighting rifle. The eye relief should be the same or as close as

possible.

While you may hear some muffled chuckles by showing up to a skeet range with a holographic

optic mounted to a fighting shotgun, don’t let it bother you. I have found that my skeet shooting

is actually better when I use my fighting shotgun than it is with a traditional blaster designed

specifically for skeet. I know that is not typical, but my averages are consistently better.

With a little creativity, this typically stoic shooting event can be a valuable training exercise.

While this may invoke a little laughter from your shooting buddies, have the controller pull the

pigeon while your feet are backwards (strong side forward). This will cause a similar affect to

throwing the Frisbee in that you will begin out of position.

It makes sense to have your scattergun set up as close as possible to your battle rifle anyway.

Just as having the same stance for pistol and rifle eliminates one set of mental commands,

having both long guns set up identically allows a single stance.

I have found several brands of shotguns with a pistol grip at a similar angle to that of my rifles.

This is something important to consider if purchasing a new combat shotgun.


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Chapter 9

Waterboarding

Of all the training methods outlined in this work, the Waterboarding Drill requires the greatest

amount of time for setup and takedown. The investment is worth it as this exercise can also

provide some of the most interesting results.

The basic premise of waterboarding is to set up an obstacle course made of water. More

specifically, the primary obstacle is to avoid getting soaked. Practically everyone has seen lawn

sprinklers arching water in various patterns onto thirsty yards. Many of us enjoyed playing in the

cold shower as young children during hot summer months. Watching my children trying to avoid

the sprinklers actually gave me the idea to use this method for training.

There are numerous variations to the patterns and speed at which these devices deliver H2O.

Many are adjustable. These common yard tools can be arranged in a pattern that forces

movement, timing, and shot selection for an aspiring lead merchant. If the operator doesn’t

execute, he/she gets wet. While it may seem like a minor annoyance at first glance, you would

be surprised at how many people miss an easy shot because they were hit with a jet of cold

water right before pulling the trigger.

Like the Flying Saucers Drill, waterboarding requires more than just an open range for shooting.

A water outlet (spigot) is obvious, as well as several feet of hose and a few sprinkler heads.

Different spray patterns and varied timing increases the stressors and adds to the value of the

drill.

Keep in mind that there are two broad categories of sprinklers – revolving and sweeping.

Revolving heads shoot water in a circular pattern, normally rotating 360 degrees every so many

discharges. Some higher end models allow for the rotation to be restricted to less than a full

circle. Sweeping sprinklers spray several smaller jets of water in a slow, back and forth pattern.

Again, many of these can be adjusted to limit the coverage area.

Using one of these types of sprinklers can provide a challenge for the novice executing this drill.

However, consider the challenge of a course comprised of multiple sprinklers.


Tip: One piece of advice is to purchase sprinkler heads that have both an inlet and

outlet so they can be strung in a series.

Another option is a manifold. This inexpensive piece of plastic is normally available in most

hardware stores and allows several individual hoses to be connected to one spigot.

One of the simplest uses of water is to reinforce the need to keep the minimal amount of body

parts exposed while using cover.

In the diagram above (Figure 9.1), a simple lawn sprinkler can be used to teach someone the art

of shooting around cover without exposing his body. This lesson, for some odd reason, always

proves to be more difficult than anyone would imagine. People always tend to stick out an arm,

leg, knee, or foot. This is, of course, a very bad habit.

Over the years, I have tried several methods intended to hammer home the point of not

exposing one’s body to high velocity lead. Some examples of my attempts include shooting at

the operator with Airsoft plastic BB rifles, throwing tennis balls, and lots of yelling. To date, I

haven’t found anything as effective as cold water.

Another utilization of water for training is what we have termed the Aquacourse Drill. As the

name implies, an obstacle course using various sprinkler heads is constructed, and the operators


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run the gauntlet. Constructing a useable course takes some time and experience. The first few

times I attempted this, the frustration level almost defeated the implementation. It seems the

combination of sprinklers and timing was either too difficult or too easy for the operator. After

several attempts, I finally got it down, and it has become an effective training tool for

movement and shooting.

The goal of the Aquacourse is to force the shooter to think ahead, or plan their actions. If you

visualize the dry areas as cover, the old rule of “Never leave good cover until you know your next

position,” is enforced. The Aquacourse also imposes the variable of timing into the shooter’s

OODA loop. As stated before, avoiding a stream of water isn’t the same as avoiding a stream of

enemy fire – but it’s as close as we can safely accomplish in training.

The previous diagram (Figure 9.2) depicts an example of an Aquacourse. Three targets (right) are

set up with proper safety consideration for hits, strays and the chance that the operator will slip

and send the round high.

Three sprinkler heads are connected, two of which are sweeping (the dark areas indicate

coverage), and one is rotating.


The operator begins at the start box and proceeds through the numbered positions. The

instructor should know the course timing well enough to signal the start at the appropriate

sprinkler position.

As the operator moves from positions 1 through 3, a required number of shots at each

respective target should be made.

Depending on water pressure, sprinkler design, and length of hose available, the course should

be set up and timed to make it a challenge. Anyone could run to position 1, fire the prerequisite

number of rounds, patiently wait for an opening at position 2 and proceed. This is not the point

of the course. As you set up the Waterboarding Drill, make it difficult. Time and cold water are

stressors and being able to perform while under adverse conditions is the objective.


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One of the surprises we uncovered while using this technique was the variable of mud. After

your Aquacourse has been running for a while, most ground will become saturated and muddy -

at minimum slick. A lack of sure footing, while moving with a weapon and heavy gear, is another

beneficial experience for the operator’s OODA loop.

One word of warning about using the Aquacourse:

Don’t attempt this method unless the operators have developed proper weapon’s safety

skills.

People will slip, fall, slide, and their bodies contort in comedic fashion if their footing becomes

unstable. The first time I had an operator fall backwards and discharge a weapon upon impact

resulted in an immediate change in the prerequisites required before running the course.

Fortunately, the shot was harmless, but the point remains – safety is always paramount. If you

haven’t developed a proper safe off, fire, safe on habit, you should avoid waterboarding. This

automatic manipulation of the weapon’s safety is another difference between a Shootist and a

rifleman.

There is an additional benefit to the Aquacourse that wasn’t obvious at first – the impact of

water on equipment. I’ve seen optics fog or become obscured by moisture. Red dots, marketed

as waterproof, have failed. One operator’s magazine pouches became soaked and the material

expanded causing the spare mags to become stuck in his load vest. Some eye protections

(glasses) become unusable, while other models seem to have natural run off. Steady rain on a

field hat always makes for an interesting complication, as water running down the back of the

operator’s neck causes a distraction.

Depending on the conditions, rifles can become caked with mud or wet sand. Boots are always

an interesting topic of conversation as well as gloves and how they react when wet.

Many operators complain about the mud bath, to which I always respond, “Are you only going

to fight during fair weather?”

Running the Aquacourse always raises the question of ponchos or rain gear. While there is no

doubt having such items in your kit is important, the truth of the matter is that very few

professionals want to wear such equipment in a fight. You can figure this out quickly on your

own. Set up and execute an Aquacourse wearing your rain gear and require a mag change at

one of the stations. I still like to run with a poncho on now and then just to get used to the gear.


Chapter 10

Additional Stressors

Anyone who has been in a gunfight will vouch that such activities are loud. People have various

reactions when exposed to sudden increases in noise levels. The average person has difficulty in

concentrating, and most everyone takes a little longer to focus and function.

For some time I have believed that repeated exposure reduces the impact of high noise levels. I

first came up with this theory by visiting a United States Air Force base. While taking a tour of

the maintenance area, most everyone in the tour group flinched when testing of a jet engine

started nearby. Even though we had been issued hearing protection, the affect was still

uncomfortable. The only people who didn’t flinch were the airmen working in the area – they

went about their jobs as usual. While I personally felt like the vibrations had disconnected every

rib bone from my spine, all of the airmen smiled, concentrated on detailed tasks and basically

went about their business. These airmen spent their days in such an environment and were

acclimated to it.

Later, I asked about their level of hearing protection and was informed it was identical to what

we guests had been issued. “You get used to it,” was the response I received after further

questioning.

If these airmen can function, given that level of noise, then it should be easy for a Shootist to do

the same during battle if given enough prior exposure. The problem becomes one of simulating

the noise of combat.

Shooting at a public range is one method of noise acclimation. If the range is busy, there will be

dozens, if not hundreds, of weapons being discharged. Even with proper hearing protection, the

environment will provide some level of exposure.

Another method I have grown fond of over the years is using firecrackers. These little

noisemakers are not legal everywhere, so you should check the law in your area.

A string of common firecrackers, thrown in front of a shooter running a drill can have some

interesting results. If the shooter is prone, the effect is even greater. Of course, physical safety is

paramount, but the stimulus can be effective.


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Smoke is also common on the battlefield. Weapons, fires, explosions and smoke grenades all

generate smoke. Smoke has an interesting effect on some people. The drifting clouds are a

visual distraction at best. I have seen some operators completely ignore smoke while others

seem to slow down significantly. Like most things, smoke can be a double-edged sword – it can

hinder or help the Shootist. What’s important for training is exposure.

Smoke, or a reasonable facsimile, can be generated several different ways. For example, while

you are at the fireworks stand, purchase some smoke bombs. They are smaller and less effective

than military smoke grenades, but two or three of the little pyrotechny will help to simulate the

smoke effect of a fire fight.

The most realistic method is to use an actual smoke grenade. A boating supply store will

typically sell what is the equivalent of a military issue device. Boaters use them for signaling.

They are expensive, costing between $40-60 each.

While on the subject of smoke grenades, every shooter should carry one or two of these if

expecting trouble. Unless the threat is equipped with FLIR capabilities (Forward Looking

Infrared), smoke can be a great ally. Again, this is not a book on tactics, but smoke can be used

to break contact, provide cover for crossing an open area, and countless other applications.

Since the times of Neanderthal man, building a fire has been another tried and true method –

given the right conditions and materials. Typically, greener fuel generates more smoke. If the

wind is right and you won’t start a forest fire, this may be a reasonable alternative. Again, safety

should be the first priority.

When I was younger and thought I was immortal, my young friends and I used to set up bottle

rockets and fireworks-based mortars aimed at the shooters. Everyone had on body armor and

heavy clothing, so why not? There are several issues with this from a safety perspective, not the

least of which is the guy who has to light the fuses and then scramble out of the line of fire.

Another problem which became apparent at one location was the ignition of a building behind

the shooters.

These projectiles possess a surprisingly inaccurate trajectory. For this, and other obvious

reasons, I can’t recommend using projectile fireworks as a training tool. I will note, however,

that some recreational rockets and mortars have the same effect as flash-bang grenades on

shooters. Watch those muzzles as stunned people do crazy stuff with rifles. You just never know

what a threat might use as a distraction.


There are numerous sources on the internet that show examples of how to build your own

smoke-generating devices. I have never tried any of these because their construction and usage

seem dangerous - the concept of chemical burns being in the forefront of my mind, not to

mention difficulties with ATF or other governmental agencies with some of the blueprints. I

can’t endorse or vouch for any of these internet chemistry lessons.

Some military instructors induce stress by constantly yelling and badgering recruits. While this

practice is typically toned down on the firing range and has been somewhat modified in later

years, there can be no doubt that this tactic elevates stress due to increased noise levels.

Air horns can be used to generate noise as well, but with hearing protection in place, the affect

is limited. Sneaking up on a fully armed man running a drill and letting loose with an air horn in

his ear isn’t wise. Again, watch those muzzles.

One of the biggest challenges for any type of instructor is to induce stressors that simulate a real

fight. Obviously, the goal here is that; if someone can become acclimated to combat before

actually being shot at, the chances of survival increase. Exercises must test skills and push you to

the next level without injury.

Tip: Choose your shooting buddy wisely – safety is always the first priority with

equipment, drills, targets, and co-workers.


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Chapter 11

Other Training Methods and Targets

Given the explosive growth of firearm ownership in the United States since 2008, ancillary

industries offering weapons training accessories have grown as well. I was recently in a store

that carried an entire section of steel targets. This was a national chain that specialized in

hunting and outdoor equipment, and I was shocked to see valuable floor space dedicated to

what a few years ago would have been a product with a very limited market.

While on the subject, steel targets are excellent training devices for several reasons. When

struck, they produce a nice, loud “ping” sound that provides the operator instant feedback. In

my opinion, that is also their biggest drawback in that I have seen very competent shooters who

hesitate on regular targets waiting for that reinforcing confirmation of a hit. Like many things in

life, too much of any one thing is not good.

Steel is also handy because you don’t have to go downrange and replace targets every so many

shots. I have mixed feelings about this as well because I see shooter’s fatigue all of the time, and

a break now and then to set up new targets can offer the additional benefit of a reduction in

that instance.

Of all the steel targets I have used, my favorite is the “tree.” This is a vertical post with targets

that pivot left or right. Two shooters set up, and the goal is to knock all of your targets to the

other guy’s side of the post. The targets swing both ways, so the contest can drag out for some

time. I have participated in a few of these contests where the contenders run out of ammo

without a winner. The tree requires management of reloads, thinking ahead, and excellent

target acquisition skills. Stress levels can become very high if a combination of bragging rights

and testosterone are involved.

There are numerous varieties of steel targets available, and most are reasonably priced. Spring

loaded, self-resetting, pendulum and many, many others can be implemented to increase your

skills as a Shootist. Again, I would caution against using these devices exclusively.

Tip: Make sure you purchase steel that will handle your weapon’s caliber. These

products typically denote on the packaging the caliber they are designed to withstand.


Tip: Some steel targets require installation at a very specific angle to avoid ricochets.

Caution is advised not only during the initial installation, but in subsequent sessions as

ground settling or even a slightly different shooting position can cause dangerous bullet

returns.

Another training method that has become available in the last few years is virtual ranges or

virtual simulators. These facilities typically involve using a pistol that simulates recoil using gas

and fires a laser rather than lead. The shooter aims and fires at large projections, sometimes

with up to 300 degrees of view.

I have found these facilities an excellent choice for beginners or those picking up a weapon for

the first time. They are also fun, and I go every now and then with a friend to enjoy an

experience I equate with playing an arcade video game.

For the experienced operator, you won’t find much here to increase your skills. The visual

feedback of where the rounds strike makes it too easy to adjust your aim and such hints don’t

exist in the real world. Even the best of the facilities of this type that I have seen display

accuracy issues, and some of the simulations jump around a little too much. I’m confident that

in the future, most of us will eventually do some percentage of our training in such places. The

technology is only going to improve over time, and even today they have value. Again, they are

fun, and I wouldn’t hesitate to take a beginner there for indoctrination.


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Chapter 12

Accuracy and Marksmanship

Consider the following scenario as you read this chapter:

Your base of operations has been experiencing nightly mortar attacks. Intel suggests that a

couple of enterprising young men have acquired an old Russian 82mm tube and some

number of rounds. They have taken to the rude habit of sneaking around at night, setting up

the tube and dropping in a few random rounds. Before the counter-battery fire can react,

the ingrates disappear into the night.

The CO likes his martinis stirred, not shaken. In addition, the last attack knocked out the

internet connection, and everyone is pissed because they can’t play Call of Duty against the

Marines up the road. War is hell.

The boss orders observation posts at several locations so as to catch the vermin. You, being

one of the better shots in the outfit, are politely asked to abandon the luxury

accommodations of your cot and join in the fun.

Your position is on a rocky ridge, overlooking a valley below. Sure enough, you see three

suspicious-looking gentlemen carrying what has to be a mortar tube, base plate, and a

couple of footballs with fins. They are about 400 meters out, and you are significantly higher

than the targets. Standoff force projection (airstrike or arty) is a negative – chance of

collateral damage and all that. You are given permission to engage. You know that once that

M4 starts barking, those dudes down below are going to hightail it out of there. You may

have time to get off three, maybe four shots before they recover from the confusion and

become moving targets. So, Mr. Liege of Lethality - how do you make those shots?

Even with a non-precision rifle, there may be times when you need to place a shot at longer

distances. The much-maligned 5.56 NATO cartridge used in the AR platform is considered by

many to be the least powerful of the entire spectrum of modern battle rifles. While the debates

rage on this topic, it is a fact that the ballistics of the cartridge enables it to reach out to 400-500

meters, with some people claiming terminal capabilities to 600 meters. I have personally


watched the Army Marksmanship Team hit targets with iron sights at 600. While I’m not sure of

the energy being delivered by the lead at that range, striking a threat is possible at those

distances. If your weapon of choice is not an AR, the chances are your ballistics will be at least as

good out to some distance – perhaps better.

I seriously hesitated to include a section on distance shooting in this book. Pat Rodgers, a highly

respected firearms instructor and retired United States Marine is attributed as saying, “If I were

in charge for the day, the word ‘marksmanship’ would be removed from the English language.”

While I have no way of knowing the exact context intended by Mr. Rodgers, I fully understand

the frustrations experienced by some instructors with operators who concentrate more on

marksmanship than fighting the weapon. More than once, I’ve wanted to scold a client like so,

“Just fight the damn weapon, and stop worrying about centering your rounds!” It is a waste of

precious time to focus on one-inch groups when involved in a gunfight at combat distances. Two

hits to the core, even if four inches apart, are going to be just as effective as two hits an inch

apart. In some cases, the former would be arguably more damaging.

Even if you strongly believe you will never encounter a scenario as described above, I believe in

milking every last bit of accuracy out of a weapon platform of choice. Most of the techniques so

far have addressed speed on target while sacrificing accuracy, but that doesn’t mean you won’t

be a more effective gunfighter if you start off with an accurate weapon.

A weapon that enters the fight as finely tuned as possible may make the different between a hit

and a miss. Any rifle being used in combat can benefit from being as accurate as possible. Even if

you don’t believe you will ever have to engage at medium expanses, setting up your weapon

and practicing at these longer ranges will improve your close-in capabilities.

If counter-sniper engagements are considered along with fighting in open, desert terrain, it only

makes sense for Shootists to at least establish some level of marksmanship in their skill sets.

When considering distances over 300 meters, most shooters start thinking about magnification.

Be it a scope, magnifier for a holographic optic or other device, accuracy for all but the most

elite shooters improves if the target appears larger. When the all-too-common need to identify

innocent versus hostile is thrown into the mix, zooming in becomes almost a necessity. More

than once I have seen a situation where allowing a threat to get closer, so as to verify identity,

led to trouble.

Hitting a target at 600 meters is not on par with the capability and skills of a sniper or long-

distance competition shooter. These mid-distance engagements seem to be a bit of a no-man’s


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land with regards to both training and equipment. Even though both medium and long-range

engagements use a rifle, these two categories are worlds apart. Don’t think that because you

master hitting a relatively large target (man-sized) at 600 meters that you are now a long-range

Shootist or on par with a sniper. Not only are the equipment, ammunition and skills different,

each has a terminology all its own.

Hang around a 1,000-yard competition and you will witness long conversations about “lands,”

which has nothing to do with the surrounding terrain. It is common for these marksmen to refer

to a weapon as a “hammer,” no doubt a derivative of the old phrase “tack driver.” For them, the

rifle isn’t aimed, it is steered. Hearing phrases, such as head spacing, free bore and wildcatting,

wouldn’t be unusual.

Of all of the topics in this book, longer-range shooting is the subject with which I personally have

the least amount of experience. Only in recent years, did I start preparing to shoot NRA F-Class

(1,000 yard) events, and then only as time allowed. Being able to project power over such

distances has always been one of my personal bucket list items. Throughout the years, there just

wasn’t enough time to develop the skills to perform in this role professionally. I have regulated

myself to expanding my capabilities in this category of shooting for entertainment value only.

The game changes when it comes to engaging a target at great distances, as many of the

methods and techniques described in previous sections of this book would make a long-distance

rifleman cringe.

Accuracy at great distances is a worthy pursuit. There are few individual weapon systems more

effective on the battlefield than to a sniper. One man can tie down dozens of regular troops, and

many of the targets will likely be taken out of the fight. Counter-sniper skills are considered

extremely valuable as well.

As stated above, extreme distance shooting is subject deserving a book all its own, and there are

already some excellent works available. For the purposes of this writing, we will continue to

focus on the 300-600 meter, mid-range engagement.


The System

As the distance of engagement increases, the more important it

becomes for the Shootist to gain a perspective of what I refer to as

“The System.”

Systems are made of components and processes, and you need to

understand the integration of a few critical items to become a

Shootist.

This book focuses on skills, ammunition, weapon, optic, and historical

database (DOPE) as the five main components of mid-range

engagements.

The Shootist will be limited by the weakest link in this system.

This is to say that you can have the most accurate, long-range pain

stick ever to leave the lathe, and if you put junk ammunition into it,

it’s little better than your ugly cousin’s BB gun. Anyone can acquire an

ultra-accurate bullet chucker with the kinetic energy of Zeus’s

thunderbolts, but without the DOPE to aim it properly, it’s just a

multi-thousand-dollar noisemaker.

In reality, there should be a sixth link in our chain – mindset. Without an aggressive, disciplined

way of thinking, the rest of the process is flawed. Colonel Jeff Cooper’s books address the topic

of mindset, and there is little this author can add to his work.

Equipment Preparations

Of all of the factors that can impact the accuracy of any weapon, the alignment of rail (or

mount), barrel, and optic is the most common cause of problems I’ve encountered. In the good

old days, the tap holes or machined groves on top of the receiver were the primary concerns

when it came to mounting a scope. With the advent of the Picatinny Arsenal 1913 rail system

used on so many platforms, the effort required to align optics became more complex. Shotguns,


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pistols, AK’s, 4th generation assault rifles, and even some bows use this system. Most of the

time, the rail is not directly machined as part of the receiver and thus the potential for problems

increases.

The first mistake many people make is they align their optic with the 1913 rail.

The optic should be aligned with the barrel.

I have measured dozens of weapons ranging from low-end AR15s, modified AK’s, and high end

sniper rifles. Over 30% of the rails do not align with the barrel.

For shorter distances, a hundredth of an inch of misalignment doesn’t matter that much,

especially when dealing with a combat accurate class of weapon. Obviously, as distances

increase, any error in alignment results in exponentially greater problems. How many times

have you heard a friend complain about a rifle being inaccurate at greater distances? “It shoots

sub-MOA at 100, but I can’t even find the paper at 500,” isn’t a rare complaint. The most likely

cause of this situation is a badly mounted optic.

A badly aligned mount can impact close range shots as well. I will reiterate that every bit of

accuracy available from the weapon increases the chances of winning a gunfight. It’s just

common sense.

For years, bubble levels were the most commonly used tool to align and mount optics. These

common garage items are fairly accurate when used by someone with a practiced eye. Most

serious armorers and gunsmiths have upgraded to lasers and digital technology in the last few

years. A beam of light, in our neck of the universe, doesn’t lie.

You can now purchase a combination digital, laser and bubble level at most hardware stores for

less than $35. My particular model (pictured below) is now a common item in my shooting bag

and has probably paid for itself ten times over in saved ammunition and frustration.


The picture above (Figure 12.1) shows a rifle in a gun vise being readied to mount a scope. The

digital level is setting on the rail. With this device, you can quickly determine if the rail is aligned

with the barrel. It can also be used to verify that scope rings are machined to tolerance as well

as having a variety of other uses.

On many weapons there is not enough of the barrel protruding to allow for an accurate reading.

In this situation, I use another hi-tech gadget called a laser bore sight (Figure 12.2). These handy

little emitters are commonly used to bore sight a rifle before heading to the range. Designed to

get the first shot onto the paper, they are inexpensive and worth the investment if you find

yourself zeroing a lot of optics. They come in various calibers and look like a blank cartridge

(pictured below).


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A couple of watch batteries are inserted into the base of the device, and then you chamber it

into the weapon just like a regular round. While bore sights work well for their stated purpose, I

have also found them helpful in determining that my optic mount aligns (on incline) with my

barrel.

This process is easy. You simply take the laser level and set it on the rail. Insert your laser bore

sight into the chamber and trace the two laser points. The picture below shows the first up-close

measurement (laser circles enhanced for the photograph).


I then take the same exact setup and move the paper about 20 feet away and make sure the

two laser points are the same. You can trace the up-close red dots and then check the longer

measurement against that template.

Verifying that the base or rail isn’t tilted horizontally involves the exact same process only with

the rifle lying on its left side and then right. When you have finished, you should be confident

that your rail is aligned true to your barrel.

If you use any sort of laser designators or other precision devices mounted to the side rails, you

can verify their alignment the same way.

If you find that your base (or rail) is not properly aligned, there are a few things you can do

about it. One of the first items I check is the torque of any fasteners holding the rail to the

receiver. You should verify they are torqued to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Very slight differences in incline can also be corrected by “lapping” the scope mounts. This

process basically involves sanding down part of the surface where the scope intersects with the

rings. A very fine sand paper or lapping compound can be used. A company named Weaver even

makes special lapping kits designed specifically for scope rings.


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For serious problems, anything more than three degrees, a gunsmith should be consulted.

Once you have determined your rail or other mounting system is exactly parallel with the barrel,

then you can perform a similar process with the optic’s mounts. For example, if I were mounting

a scope on the weapon pictured above, I would use the digital level sitting on top of the scope

mount’s base(s) to make sure everything were aligned.

Of course, all of this is done before any optic is even near the weapon. I want to know that my

rails (all of them, including side rails) are pointing exactly flush with the barrel. I also re-check

this situation now and then, especially on weapons that see a lot of rounds expended. Any

system used to secure the rails can be vibrated loose over time.

Another common issue that affects accuracy is the vertical alignment of riflescopes and other

optics. While the laser level can be used for this process as well, I have found a plain old plumb

line to be just as accurate. Once I have secured the rifle in a fixed position and double-checked it

is level (side to side), I can hang a short piece of fishing line (or other narrow string) in front of

the rifle and then twist the scope until the vertical post aligns on the string. As you tighten down

the scope mounts, you want to continuously check that you haven’t twisted the optic slightly off

line. Don’t be surprised if you have to loosen and tighten the scope rings several times to

maintain your alignment. You can use the laser level to verify everything after you are finished.

If your optic doesn’t have crosshairs, then the digital laser level can be used. Verify the rifle is

level vertically and horizontally, mount the optic and then use the level on a flat service of the

optic.

Knowing that your equipment can provide every advantage can be important when stepping

onto the field or entering harm’s way. The confidence obtained by knowing that if you execute

sending the shot properly, the rifle has the capability to deliver, can make a difference.

I break down the knowledge required for this medium distance accuracy into four keys areas:

Position, Aim Point, Control, and Execution. Each of these topics is addressed below.

Position

There is nothing more important than the shooter’s position when it comes to long-distance

dialing (reach out and touch someone). I cannot stress enough the importance of placing your


body as close as possible to the natural point of aim. The U. S. Army Sniper’s Manual (FM23-10)

recommends the sniper take position and aim, then close their eyes and take several deep

breaths. When they open their eyes, the crosshairs should still be on the target.

The reason why this becomes critical is that your body and weapon are not fighting each other

and gravity becomes a friend. At extreme distances, even the slightest movement of the

weapon can cause a miss. There is simply no tolerance available to the shooter.

The second most critical element of the shooter’s position is support. As described in previous

sections, the less support available to the shooter, the less accurate the shot is likely to be. Here

are a few keys points regarding support:

Tip: Use bones (skeletal support positions) over muscle-based support whenever

possible.

Tip: Use interlocking skeletal support positions whenever possible.

Tip: Place as little of your body on the weapon as practical.

Obviously, you have to squeeze the trigger after obtaining a weld on the stock. In the perfect

position, I would have no other part of my body touching the weapon. To increase my chances

of a perfect shot, I would even put something (folded towel, spare shirt, gloves…whatever)

between the rifle butt and my shoulder so my pulse and movements are not transferred to the

weapon. The logic of this is simple – when the body moves, that causes misses. This is why

hunters use sandbags, shooting sleds and other devices to zero their scopes.

Removing body parts from the support of your weapon means finding a substitute - unless you

are shooting in zero gravity. Using rucksacks, natural terrain, rolled up sleeping bags, or anything

else that supports the weapon is a good idea. A bi-pod is an excellent investment for long-range

rifles. You can even purchase fore grips that have built in bipods.

I have often found that supporting the front of the rifle is child’s play. Supporting the back of the

weapon is what can be difficult. Fortunately, modern long-range rifles offer some stock options

that can help with this challenge.

Anything you can lean, brace, shoulder, hang or prop a rifle on that isn’t moving will help. Stack

rocks, brace against a tree – get as much of the rifle away from your body as possible. Be

creative. Think about how your sling or a piece of para-cord could be strung as a clothesline.

Even the spare socks in your pack can be filled with dirt/sand and used as a shooting bag.


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Point of Aim

The Point of Aim is where you want your optic or scope to point so the bullet impacts the target.

There is a series of steps that should be performed before every shot in order to adjust for the

many factors that impact the trajectory of any projectile. Some of this process is accomplished

well before the rifle is taken to the field, while other steps are executed only a few moments

before sending the shot.

The diagram below (Figure 12.4) outlines the steps (1-7) that should be taken before any longer-

range shot. Steps 1-3 are performed prior to taking the field. The deliverable from these three

items is really knowledge and an established base of variables.

The following sections will expand on how to accomplish each step by number.


The first three steps are all about the performance of your ammunition and rifle as a package, or

part of The System. The last four are shot specific environmental variables.

The corrections made in regard to the point of aim are somewhat dependent on the distance to

the target. It would be silly and unnecessary to calculate the impact of relative humidity on a

100-meter shot. It would be silly not to calculate this correction on a 1,200-meter shot.

Which corrections are applied in the field is dependent on other factors as well. If, for example,

you had the chance to zero your rifle in almost identical conditions as exist for a shot, you

probably wouldn’t bother with several corrections. The caliber of your weapon also has some

impact. The bullet drop for a .308 is significantly less than that of a 5.56.


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In reality, a whole host of variables is involved. The example scenario at the beginning of this

section (Jihadist mortar crew), is a situation where priorities completely unrelated to ballistics

might dictate the steps taken. In that little mind movie, the operator’s highest priority would

probably be to stop the radicals from dropping any Russian PVV-5A (their C4) onto the base. The

triggerman’s thinking might be to walk the rounds into the target, forgetting all about this fancy

corrections stuff. Breaking up their party with the hope of catching them again later might be

the overriding priority.

When I am evaluating my aim point, given time permits, I typically determine how detailed my

adjustments are going to be based on distance and the weapon I am holding at the time. Below

is a graph (Figure 12.5) depicting a generalization of this point:

The same is true of the method/tools I use to calculate any corrections. This is due to a number

of factors in addition to distance, such as rounding, setup time, and current weather conditions.


On a calm day with a 300-meter shot, I might just choose to eyeball the whole setup and send

the round. On a windy day, I may want to borrow some computer time from NASA in order to

correct for a 300-meter attempt.

There are several methods, tools, formulas and factors that impact how the Shootist handles

this complex topic. As shown below, the same logic as applied to corrections can be used in

determining which tools you will use, given the distance of the shot. How you bracket the tools

as compared to the distances may not be the same however:

Obviously, there is no perfect list of kit, software, or formulas to fit every Shootist and the

individual’s environment. Your specific needs will no doubt be unique.

As you progress through the following sections, keep in mind your weapon, optic and most

importantly – your anticipated role in any conflict. The terrain and conditions associated with

anticipated areas of operation should also be taken into consideration.


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Establishing the Ballistic Coefficient

What is the BC?

The term Ballistic Coefficient, or BC, is a number used to describe the effect of air on a bullet as

it travels through its trajectory. The BC is a measure of the bullet’s relative efficiency. There is no

absolute or invariable BC, but it is the most important factor for any serious ballistician with

regards to accuracy at medium-to-long-distances.

In general terms, the larger the value of a projectile’s BC, the more efficient the bullet in regards

to its trajectory. If the Shootist knows the BC and velocity of his bullet, the precision of any shot

can be calculated with remarkable accuracy. The only method I am aware of that is more exact

is the use of Doppler radar, and most of us can’t afford a Doppler unit to measure our practice

sessions.

Since the BC is computed in relation to the air, many factors impact the value. Altitude, for

example, makes some difference as the higher a shooter gets above sea level, the less dense the

air becomes. Less density equals less resistance on the bullet in flight, and thus impacts the BC

value.

With factory ammunition as well as reloading supplies, there are several established standards

relating to environmental conditions. One of the most common is sourced from the U. S. Army’s

Ballistics Research Laboratories, Aberdeen Proving Grounds. This standard is typically referred to

as the G1 Model or “Standard Metro.” There are actually numerous models for predicting the

ballistic performance of projectiles, so you should verify which standard and model is used by

your bullet maker. The most common is the G1, so I will use it for the examples contained

herein.

The standard environmental conditions for the G1 Model are as follows:

Altitude: Sea Level

Temperature: 59F (15C)

Pressure: 29.53 inches

Relative Humidity: 78%


All of these conditions are used by ammunition manufacturers when they established the BC for

a particular bullet. These days, most of the big factories use computer modeling to calculate this

critical number. As we continue with this section, I believe most readers will follow their lead as

computing your local BC can be a little tedious, to say the least. Fear not, brave Shootist –

computers may help you as well.

Let’s use a scenario to briefly expand on this point for a moment:

You loaded (or purchased) ammunition for your AR15 rifle

You are using a 62 grain bullet with a standard BC of .307 (Speer FMJ BT)

You know the muzzle velocity of this ammunition squirting out of your specific rifle (see

the information of chronographs) is 2980 feet per second

If you were shooting at the standard G1 conditions listed above, the performance of your bullet

would be simple enough to determine. If you are so inclined, you can do the math, but this

would be a waste of time as the performance tables are readily accessible. They would appear

similar to the table on the left:


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Without any zero (table shows total drop below sight height), you are going to have to

“holdover” the target 124.77 inches on a 600-yard shot.

This is all well and good, but how often will you shoot in standard conditions? The answer is

probably never. The factors of humidity, air temperature, pressure and elevation will impact

your BC, and that directly affects your aim point.

Elevation is probably the most common non-standard factor because many people won’t be

shooting at sea level. Our Aberdeen BC is derived at sea level, so this would be the first

adjustment. Air temperature is likely to be anything but the standard 59F.

As an example, let’s modify the standard conditions with two different values, say altitude and

temperature. We will make our shooting day a lovely 72F temp, and our altitude 1500 feet. We

find that our bullet will drop 8 inches less, as shown in the table on the right above. If you have

zeroed your rifle at 200 yards, for example, the impact of these two factors will not be as much,

but then that begs another question:

What were the conditions when/where you zeroed your rifle?

I ask this question all the time when working with clients and far too often, they really don’t

know. If you didn’t record this data, you now have thrown in a completely new set of variables

to consider when adjusting your BC to a localized value before any shot.

Do you remember our sub-MOA rifle we were bragging about? Well sir, at 600 yards, that still

leaves you 6 additional inches (1 MOA per 100 yards) of potential miss. If you are aiming at core

mass, and haven’t adjusted for your BC, you have the potential for 16 inches of miss, and we

haven’t even gotten to the factor that will push your bullet around the most – wind.

Every Shootist knows what the conditions were when they zeroed their weapon.

Step 1: Baseline BC

Initially, the operator begins with the factory, or baseline BC as provided by the manufacturer.

On some factory ammunition, this number can be a little difficult to discover. For reloaders,

military, and quality U. S. made factory rounds, it is fairly simple.


Reloads – There are countless books, internet sites, and free materials available for determining

a bullet’s BC. Every U. S. manufacturer publishes its own product catalog, which contains every

model of bullet’s BC.

Military – Most branches of the military use standard specification ammo. The BC for each of

these various loads is published in several places. Your unit armorer can also provide the BC.

Factory Rounds – Most quality manufacturers publish the BC on either their web pages or

catalogs. Sometimes, you will see information such as, “Speer #nnnn 169 gr. BTHP,” or similar.

You can take the product model number (nnnn) and locate the corresponding BC in the catalog

or webpage.

If finding the bullet’s BC proves problematic, then another method is to work backwards using a

chronograph and a fixed distance range. If you know the speed and drop of the bullet at a

particular distance, you can find a documented round with similar performance. While shooting,

make sure and compare, side-by-side, the mystery bullet to one where the BC is known. This

method takes a while and should be the last resort.

Step 2: Weapon’s Velocity

Many people don’t understand the variable nature of velocity. There are numerous factors that

play into how fast the bullet is moving as it leaves the muzzle.

The most obvious is the length of the barrel. The longer the steel, the faster the bullet will be

traveling as it waves goodbye to the muzzle.

Another factor that will cause the same round to vary its velocity significantly is the chamber

pressure achieved during the internal ballistics phase of firing a shot. Don’t think for one

moment this is the same across rifles, or even similar models of rifles. As discussed below in the

Ballistics and Reloading chapter, there can be a considerable difference.

Altitude and air temperature can also play a factor, although I don’t believe this is a big deal at

the distances addressed by this writing. If you were shooting 1200 yards or more, these

variables would be worthy of in-depth analysis.

The best way to determine the muzzle velocity for your specific rifles/ammunition combination

is to use a chronograph. These devices are covered in the Chapter 14 – Ballistics and Reloading.


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If you don’t have access to such a machine, it is possible to work the value backwards, but this is

very difficult and prone to error.

It is also possible to take the factory specifications, normally documented on a 20 inch barrel,

and work backwards to your 14.5 inch battle rifle (or whatever you are using), but again, this is

difficult to do and will not take into account differences in chamber pressure.

Muzzle velocity is not a fixed value even if clocked with the most sophisticated measurement

tools. Wear and tear on the chamber, free bore (see below) and barrel condition can all impact

this number.

One way or another, you have to know your muzzle velocity to achieve premium accuracy out of

any weapon.

This value is almost always expressed in feet-per-second, or FPS.

Step 3: Establishing the BC at Zero

Here is an interesting observation you can make the next time you are at the range. I’m talking

about one of those public, known distance ranges with dozens of lanes. Count the number of

shooters who have a pencil and paper with them. To be fair, include the ones who are using

their smart phones, regardless of if you think they are just texting their wives or not.

On the rare occasion that I visit one of these facilities, I have better things to do than investigate

my neighboring operators, but there are typically breaks for target changes when one’s gaze

can’t help but wander around looking at weapons and equipment. It’s like when my wife and I

go to the beach – you can’t help but check out the equipment being displayed in the area.

If your experience is anything like mine, you will find it extremely rare to witness other shooters

writing anything down. This has always puzzled me. Perhaps they take notes when they return

home, or maybe it was just a visit to verify a zero. Maybe they are just breaking in a weapon and

don’t care much about the results.

I’m the guy using a pencil as much as the trigger. Not only am I logging shots, I’m taking note of

wind conditions, and other variables. If I am zeroing a weapon that may be used in a gunfight, I

am definitely reading the conditions and writing them down.


The variables of temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, and altitude are used to modify or

correct a bullet’s BC in the field or at the range. For Step #3, the following sections describe how

to determine these external factors and how they are used to determine your BC at zero.

Temperature

Of all of the variables that affect the aim point, temperature and barometric pressure are

probably the two factors that most sharpshooters concentrate on the most.

There are several different ways to determine temperature in the field, but unless you are

launching extreme long-distance deliveries, a close estimate is probably good enough.

The aforementioned weather station is one device that will provide an accurate reading. My

wristwatch happens to provide a temperature reading. This is a common feature on many

outdoor models. Listening to the weather forecast at briefings can at least provide a range of

values.

Most people can get pretty close, and if the estimate isn’t far from the G1 standard of 59°, then I

don’t worry about it.

Here is the math used to adjust the impact of temperature on your baseline BC established in

step #1:

(Current Temp in degrees Fahrenheit + 459.4) divided by (59 + 459.4) =

Correction Factor

Let’s say we are setting up for a shot and the current temperature is 78°F. Our math would look

like this:

78 + 459.4 = 573.4

59 + 459.4 = 518.4

573.4 / 518.4 = 1.106

Our correction factor is 1.106. If our bullet had a baseline BC of .307, the difference would be

computed as follows:

.307 x 1.106 = .340 (rounded)


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The G1 standard temperature (from above) is 59°F. We are getting ready to shoot in warmer air,

which is thinner, thus our BC improved.

On some weapons, the temperature of the air within the barrel can make a significant

difference. The first shot out of a cool barrel is often referred to as a “cold bore shot.”

Different combinations of weapons and ammunition seem to react differently to cold bore

shots. Of all the rifles I have owned, only one ever shot significantly differently with a cold bore.

That was a Remington 700 bolt action with a 22-inch barrel. When firing heavy .308 bullets, it

would impact about 1 MOA lower after the barrel was heated.

Over a dozen of my other weapons, including both bolt action and auto-loaders of various

calibers, have not shown any difference between hot and cold bores. I recommend paying close

attention to your specific rifle on that critical first shot, or letting the barrel cool a few times

during various training sessions and documenting the results.

A “cold bore shot” should not be confused with a “clean bore shot.” Some extreme distance

shooters can discern a performance difference when the barrel is slightly soiled versus

absolutely clean. Snipers normally clean their bore and then fire 2-5 shots before stowing away

their weapons so as to maintain consistency.

Humidity

Humidity is a measurement of the amount of moisture in the air. Water is denser than air, so the

higher the humidity, the more resistance the round will encounter during flight.

For the purposes of this book, the differences in humidity are minor, and the math is complex.

There are several sources available that can explain how to calculate this correction factor

should you wish to delve into the topic. An internet search of the topic will provide a wealth of

results.

If you are using a ballistic calculator or other automated device, this information is good to

know. Any data provided can lessen the margin of error.

If you are correcting your BC in the field, I wouldn’t bother for 600 meters and in.


Barometric Pressure

Most riflemen pay the least amount of attention to barometric pressure. However, the impact

to the trajectory of a bullet on a high versus low pressure day is measureable and should be

accounted for on extreme distance shots.

Determining the barometric pressure in the field can be next to impossible if weather data is not

available. There are handheld weather stations that are often used by snipers and similar

models can be purchased by civilians for around $130. These nifty little machines can also

measure wind speed, wind direction, temperature, humidity and other factors.

I, personally, have a wristwatch that will display BP, but I rarely use it. When shooting F-Class

matches, I look at the weather report before heading to the range, or use my weather station. If

you want to shoot at 1,000 yards or more, having some device to measure BP is probably a

worthwhile investment. For our purposes here, BP has far less impact at 600 yards than 1,000.

Here is the math to correct our baseline BC with the field barometric pressure:

29.53 divided by the current barometric pressure = correction factor

An example would be our weather station indicates the current pressure is 21.50. The math

would be:

29.53 / 21.50 = 1.373

Our correction factor is 1.373. If our bullet had a baseline BC of .307, the difference would be

computed as follows:

.307 x 1.373 = .422 (rounded)

If you had already corrected for a different in temperature (above), then you would apply both

of the factors together:

1.106 x 1.373 x .307 = .466

Our baseline BC has been modified from .307 to .466. How much difference is that? Using my

shorter-barreled M4, firing my preferred round, that is just over 25 inches less bullet drop at 600

yards - or in other words, a missed shot.


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Altitude

Altitude, elevation, or the height above sea level can play a significant role in determining how

much a particular bullet will drop in flight. The air becomes thinner as elevation increases, thus

providing less resistance to the lead.

There are a few commonly accepted methods to determine elevation. Obviously, an altimeter

will provide the information, and this feature is often included in various handheld devices

available to shooters.

Another common method is to reference a topographical map if you know your location.

Again, my watch includes this feature, and if I am shooting in a strange area, I reference my

altitude as it can make a significant difference in the bullet drop compensation. Many mapping

functions on smart phones will also display altitude.

If you have a ballistics calculator available, knowing your “tude” is just another piece of

information to feed The System. This data will be used to refine your BC.

If you are rolling through the field without electronics, then printing out or writing down a table

of compensation is much easier than the math associated with correcting your BC in the field.

The information from a printed table would then be used after Step 7 to adjust your point of

aim.

Putting it together

Once you have determined a value for the four variables involved, the fastest, most accurate

solution available is to use a ballistics calculator. As discussed in Chapter 13 - DOPERS, smart

phones, dedicated ballistic calculators, some weather stations, or hard-copy (printed) materials

can be used. A regular old hand calculator is common. There are also devices that are non-

electronic and operate similarly to the old-fashioned slide rule.

For Step 3, establishing BC at zero, I write down the conditions when I am zeroing the rifle in as

much detail as possible. Anything I can document at the range, I do. For variables such as

humidity, I check the local weather report for a generalized adjustment.

When I return to my computer, I enter the localized conditions into free software programs (do

a search on ballistic calculators) and print off the information to be stored for my DOPE.


Step 4: BC at Shot

What I want to have with me in the field for Step #4 (BC at shot) is the following information:

BC at Zero

.0412

Temp = 84F

BarP = 22.3

Hum = 81

Alt = 230

Once I have this information, I can then make adjustments shortly before the shot in the field.

Step 5: Angle

Shooting at a target that is higher or lower than your position adds some complexity to the final

aiming solution. A small angle applied to a long-distance shot can change the aim point

significantly. A large angle applied to a short-range shot can do the same.

The math to compute the effect on your aim point is easy, once you know the angle and the

cosine of the angle. You simply multiple the distance to the target by the cosine and use that as

your starting point when determining hold.

Many shooters keep an angle to cosine chart in their DOPE book. A sample would be as follows:

Angle Cosine

20° .94

25° .91

30° .87

35° .82

After both the distance to the target and the angle is determined, you simply multiply the

distance by the cosine value to determine the “gravity adjusted distance.”

Let’s look at an example:


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As described in the scenario at the beginning of this section, targets are spotted in a valley

below your position. You determine the distance to the target is 400 yards.

You determine the angle is 30 degrees and thus a cosine of .87 (from the chart above).

Your distance, used for calculating your aim point, would be 348 yards, or:

440 x .87 = 382

The difference of 58 yards, with many caliber of rifle, can be significant. Novices don’t worry too

much about angles and aim. They may live in flat areas and feel they are unlikely to need these

skills. I always counter that point with the example of urban environments and tall buildings.

Knowing how to adjust for an angled shot may make all the difference in a counter-sniper

situation.

It should also be noted that the aim point on an angled shot is always lower, regardless if the

target is up or down incline from the shooter.

So how do you determine the angle?

One of the easiest ways is to purchase a laser range finder (see Distance below) that calculates

angle automatically.

Another option is a device called a cosine indicator. These handy devices attach to your scope

and function similarly to the typical bubble level. The cosine is indicated as the rifle is tilted to

incline or decline. An example, mounted on a long-range blaster is shown below:


There are numerous other methods of determining angle, some electronic, some manual.

When I get the rare opportunity to practice shooting at angles (Texas is pretty flat on my side of

the state), I use a laser range finder with a manual system as a backup.

My non-electronic method of determining the angle of a target involves using my sling as a

plumb line. Since practically all of my weapons have 1913 rails, this makes it easy to gain a rough

estimate of angle.


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As I tilt my rifle up or down to acquire a target, my sling acts as a plumb line. I then can count

the number of 1913 “rails” between the end of the rail and where the sling-turned-plumb-line is

hanging. Simply using my finger to feel and count, I can determine a pretty close indication of

angle. This works at night as well.

In my DOPE sheet for each rifle, I have a page with three columns, the # of rails, the angle in

degrees represented by each rail, and the cosine for that angle. This homemade system has

proven remarkably accurate after a little practice and making sure the sling is hanging freely. It

adds zero weight to my rifle and makes a good backup for my electronic range finder. Even if

you don’t have a rail on your rifle, any sort of reference point will do the trick.

There are also smart phone applications that use the camera and GPS functions to determine

angle or incline. I have never tried one of these, but some reviews are quite positive.

Numerous other pieces of hardware are available as well. A theodolite is an instrument used by

surveyors to determine both distance and angle. Artillery units use a similar tool, and I have

seen pictures of smaller, handheld examples.

A simple protractor and string can also determine the angle at which a rifle is sitting, and for

years many military snipers claim to have carried such a setup in the kit.


In summary, even if living in the flatlands, the Shootist understands how angles and trajectory

work. The method you choose should depend on your skills, budget, and opinion on what will

work for you in a violent situation.

Step 6: Distance

The distance from the target is what should be determined first. The accuracy of this value is

used to determine many other variables. There are several methods for determining the

distance to the target.

Lasing

Laser range finders are now common equipment with most hunters and snipers. These relatively

inexpensive devices are small, add little weight to the shooters kit, and function well. There are

two cautions concerning lasers discussed below.

First of all, the usage of any laser on the modern battlefield is becoming risky. Almost every

soldier and major weapon’s platform (such as M1 tanks and Bradley fighting vehicles) have been

using one form or another of lasers for over a decade. Laser detection is becoming more of a

topic of concern among professionals. With all of those beams of light bouncing all over the

place, it won’t be long before our enemies implement counter-measures that can track, plot and

detect any sort of laser.

Perhaps even more importantly, battery-operated devices can be a pain in the field.

Management of spares, failure at just the wrong time, moisture, shock and general wear and

tear can make depending on anything electronic risky. Learn to manage your electronic helpers

well and always have spare batteries.

If you can’t afford or don’t believe in laser range finders, there are numerous manual methods

used to determine the range to a target. One of the most widely accepted is the reticle of the

optic.

Reticles

The reticle of early riflescopes was a simple intersection of a vertical and horizontal line within

the viewing area of the scope. The shooter placed the intersection on the target and squeezed

the trigger. This system didn’t account for bullet drop, wind or any other factors – those were up

to the shooter to determine and adjust for.


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Today, practically every optic manufacturer has numerous different reticles from which to

choose. Some of these are even caliber specific for those of us who slept thru math class. A few

scope makers will actually build you a custom optic with the ballistics information you provide,

which makes more sense to me than an off-the-shelf model built with a generic .308 reticle. My

logic for avoiding these types of reticles is the other factors listed above, such as humidity,

combined with the fact that there are dozens of different bullets with unique ballistics for each

caliber would make any .308 reticle incorrect for a large percentage of weapons.

There many reticle options available, each having a slightly different method of estimating bullet

drop and distance. It would take an entire book dedicated to this narrow topic to cover them all.

Given the rate at which new scopes hit the marketplace, the book would be out-of-date before

leaving the presses.

By far the most common reticle is called the Mil-Dot. Since this is the optic used by the majority

of military snipers, many people believe the “Mil” in the name refers to military, but it doesn’t.

Mil-Dot reticles are scaled at mill radians – thus the Mil. As best as I can determine, this method

of estimating distance to target is an off-shoot of the WERN formula which is used to range

mortars and other long-range weapons. According to several sources, this reticle was designed

for the Marine Corps in the late 1970s.


These days, there are even several different revisions or types of Mil-Dot reticles. I recommend

you research how a specific reticle is set up and understand its intended usage before

purchasing any optic. The following is an example of how to use a reticle to determine range:

To begin with, you have to know the areas each type of hash mark or dot is designed to cover.

The drawing below (Figure 12.11, not to scale) depicts a typical Mil-Dot reticle:

Editor’s Note: In the process of conversion for printing, some formats may depict the dots slightly off

center of the horizontal and vertical lines. On an actual reticle, the dots are centered on the lines.

Next, you must determine at what magnification the optic is designed to be “ranged” with. On

most Mil-Dot optics, a setting of 10x is used, but you should verify this critical point. Set the

scope to that magnification. The area covered by each feature of the reticle, at 100 yards, is

noted below:


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Number Description Size of area at 100 yards

1 A single mil-dot .75 inches @ 100 yards

2 Center to center - two dots 3.6 inches @ 100 yards

3 Four dots – center to center 18 inches @ 100 yards

4 Varies from scope to scope

The area covered at 1,000 yards would equal each value divided by 10:

Number Description Size of area at 1,000 yards

1 A single mil-dot .075 inches @ 1000 yards

2 Center to center - two dots .36 inches @ 1000 yards

3 Four dots – center to center 1.8 inches @ 1000 yards

4 Varies from scope to scope

The area covered at 500 yards would equal the value at 100 divided by 5.

The area covered at 400 yards would equal the value at 100 divided by 4, and so on.

The key to using a mil-dot is knowing the height or width of a fixed object and measuring it with

the reticle to determine the object’s distance. For example, the average vehicle wheel

(passenger car) is 18 inches in diameter. Perhaps the average fence post in your part of the

world is 42 inches high. The average man is close to 6 feet tall.

Once you determine an object to focus on, estimating the distance is easy.

Let’s say you are trying to determine the distance to a target in proximity to a pickup truck. Use

the following steps:

Set your optic to the proper magnification for ranging.

Sight in on the automobile’s wheel – Side to side (width), is two dots.


You know the wheel is most likely 18 inches.

You know the wheel measures 2 mils.

Here is the math:

((18 divided by 36) x 1000) divided by 2

You divide the size of the target by 36 to convert inches to yards.

That solution is divided by 1,000, a fixed value.

That solution is divided by 2, the number of mils.

18 / 36 = .5

.5 x 1,000 = 500

500 / 2 = 250

The target is estimated at 250 yards away.

I always try and use an object’s width rather than height. This is because angles (being above or

below the target) will distort height, but not width. If you are on flat terrain and relatively level

with the target then either dimension will work fine.

Many shooters develop a cheat sheet showing a matrix of distances as compared to sizes in

inches. This is different than the Data on Previous Engagements (DOPE) for a specific rifle. If you

prefer this method to doing math in the field, then by all means run a spreadsheet, print it off,

and laminate it.


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Another method is to use a ballistic computer. There are two basic classes of such devices, one

being manually operated, similar to a slide rule, and the other being electronically based –

similar to a calculator. There are even ballistic software programs that can be loaded onto smart

phones for free.

Many professional shooters go with a simple handheld calculator and a cheat sheet(s) of

formulas. A solar-powered calculator with battery backup is not an expensive item, and there

are models that are robust, built for outdoor use. These can most often be found in home

improvement stores labeled as a contractor’s calculator.

Your final kit is up to you, your budget, and your area of operations. In jungle and seaside

environments, electronic devices are more suspect. Night operations require even more

consideration.

Focus Estimation

Many riflescopes now have the capability to adjust the focus onto a target and thus provide

range estimation. I have found these “distance knobs” to be hit or miss, and I would never take

a critical shot based on this information. Your equipment may be different and provide accurate

distance information. So far, even with higher cost optics, these have not proven to be reliable

for me.

Recommendation

Today, there are riflescopes that estimate range for you. Most of these models have a built-in

laser to determine distance. There are computers that you can attach to your scope, and they

will adjust the knobs automatically for the shot. While I’m not quite ready to take the plunge on

a full-out technology based solution, the accuracy achieved by using lasers is difficult to argue

with. The military issues laser range finders to their long-range shooters as well as teaching

them manual methods as a backup.

If your budget allows, I would invest in a laser range finder and use it to verify my manual

estimations (using mil-dot or other method) while training. If the electronic device fails for any

reason, you still know how to do it the old-fashioned way.

Should you decided to invest in a laser device, I have two tips you should consider:

1. Go ahead and get a device that compensates for angle as well (discussed above).


2. Make sure you pick a unit that is capable of the range you are shooting. Many models

are limited to 500 yards or are intended for bow hunters. A model that is designed for

1,000 or 1,200 yards isn’t that much more money.

Using a combination of manual estimation and electronic helper is a combination that can’t be

beat and should allow you to put lead on target more often than not.

Step 7: Wind

In the realm of marksmen, a line from the famous Hollywood actor, John Wayne is often quoted.

“Windage and elevation, Mrs. Langdon; windage and elevation.”

This pearl of cowboy wisdom from the 1969 movie, The Undefeated (Turner Classic Movies) was

given to a novice shooter who was picking up a rifle to fight off attacking banditos. While this

may seem like an oversimplification of long-distance shooting, quite frankly, the quote is not far

off the mark (no pun intended).

Of course, anyone who has ever attempted to hit a small target at 1,000 yards or more knows

it’s not that simple.

Reading the wind becomes a science unto itself if one aspires to reach the pinnacle of long-

range shooting. Knowing both the speed and direction of the wind is critical. Of all of the factors

impacting the aim point, movement of the air will steer your bullet off course as much as any

other variable.

There are numerous methods long-distance shooters use to judge wind speed. I have watched

very competent marksmen pinch a few blades of grass, hold them shoulder high, and release

them. They then measure how far away from their body the vegetation flew in order to estimate

the wind. I have never seen a serious rifleman lick his thumb and hold it up.

Since as the bullet slows down, wind will have more effect on flight path, the wind speed and

direction around the target is more important than close to the shooter. Most professionals try

to gauge wind speed by looking at indicators in proximity to the target. This, unfortunately, is

often difficult to do.


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Wind tunnels, such as often occur in large cities with skyscrapers, exist in mountain terrains or

canyon lands as well. The air may be calm at the shooter’s position, while at 500 meters it could

be blowing significantly enough to cause a missed shot. The reverse can easily be true.

The direction of the wind is also important. A 20 mph wind moving in the exact same direction

as the bullet will not have the same effect as if blowing at a ninety-degree angle.

There is equipment that can determine the wind speed and direction at the shooter’s position.

Often referred to as a “weather station,” these handheld devices will provide the shooter with

all sorts of information regarding both current and average conditions as well as altitude. The

proper name for a wind speed indicator is an anemometer (Figure 12.13). I have successfully

found them at big box outdoor stores in the boating department as well as the hunting area.

There are actually three sub-factors involved with wind: the wind speed, wind direction, and

ballistic coefficient (BC) of the bullet being fired through the air. In windy conditions, the higher

the BC, the less the wind is going to push the round during flight.


I wish I could provide you with some great technique to read the wind. Unfortunately, I can’t. I

have come to believe it is a combination of black art, experience, and common sense. The

traditional methods involve reading the movement of vegetation close to the target or studying

the mirages of air at long-distances. Experience is the key to both.

Many experienced hunters and military snipers develop quite a high level of skill reading

vegetation near the target. Some of the common indicators one might hear:

The wind must be at least 3 mph to be felt on arm hair

Using your face is the best method to determine direction

A 5 mph wind will rustle leaves

A 10 mph wind will move branches of lighter trees

Thin weeds and bushes will move at 8-10 mph

Now I have several problems with giving this type of advice. First of all, the vegetation in your

part of the world may be completely different than mine. At what wind speed does a mature

cornfield rustle versus the stalks actually bending? Are high desert pinion pines “motivated” at

the same speed as low altitude spruce?

Smoke and dust are also recommended as wind speed and direction indicators, but how often

are these elements present?

I once had a retired sniper tell me that a piece of paper blows down a city street in wind over 10

mph. While I thought the method was sage, I had to wonder about the varying weight of

different papers, so I went out in our street one day and tried it. A sheet of newspaper will move

quite nicely at 5-7 mph. A greeting card, with its fold into the wind, won’t move at all.

Am I splitting hairs here? No, I’m attempting to make a point that reading the wind takes a lot of

experience, practice, and documentation.

The military sniper schools teach something called reading the mirage. This widely accepted

method works quite well in all but the most extreme conditions. There are two drawbacks to

using mirages:

1) It is much easier to gauge the mirage through a spotting scope than the typical

riflescope.

2) For distances under 600 meters, mirages can be difficult to detect in mild temperatures.

One very good, free source on the subject of reading mirages that every Virtus of velocity should

study is the United States Army’s FM 32-10, Sniper Training Field Manual. Since we are primarily


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covering distances of less than 600 meters in this work, I will not delve further into reading

mirages here. If the reader intends to shoot longer distances, this is a subject worthy of

research.

I can recommend purchasing a weather station, such as the device shown above. Again,

obtaining long-distance accuracy adds to one’s investment. I use my weather station to verify

my manual reading of the wind. Before a shot, I study the conditions using what is available and

make my call. I then use the weather station to see how close I was. With experience, you

should get closer and closer to an accurate estimation without depending on a battery-powered

electronic device.

Another option that functions well in some situations is one of many free smart phone

applications. These products utilize the shooter’s GPS location and the nearest weather station

to report wind speed and direction as well as other data used to modify the BC. The specific one

I use is called “External Ballistics Lite,” and it was free for my Android phone. There are other,

even more sophisticated phone-based products, but I have not used those and will leave it up to

the reader’s judgment and research to determine their value.

In a later section, the topic of DOPE, or logging Data On Previous Engagements will be explored

in some detail. I have found it very useful to document the wind and its impact on my aim point.

The exercise of documenting the conditions will increase your knowledge base on the topic.

Once you have determined the wind speed and direction, calculating the effect on your shot is

not difficult. Like many topics, there are various methods used to predict this drift.

One of the simplest and most commonly used is taught by the United States Marine Corps. The

USMC teaches the following formula:

Range in 100-Yard increments, multiplied by the effective wind speed, divided by 15

So let’s say the target is 350 yards out. You have a 10 mph wind blowing from 3 o’clock.

Your math would look like this:

4 x 10 = 40

40 / 15 = 2.6 MOA

You would click off or hold off 2.6 MOA for windage.


The 350-yard distance was rounded up to 400. The 4 is the increment.

The 10 is the wind speed after compensating for direction.

The 15 is a constant…sort of.

Now this formula, like all of the other methods, has its drawbacks. To begin with, the divider, 15,

is a constant for target ranges inside of 500 yards. If your shot is longer, then that constant is no

longer constant – it changes:

600 yards = 14

700 yards = 13

800 yards = 12

…and so forth

When I have compared this method to a ballistics computer’s values, the numbers are actually

very close if the shot is less than 600 yards and you are using a .308 (7.62) round. With other

cartridges, the similarity is not as constant.

Since I only use two different calibers of ammunition in the field, it was easy for me to slightly

modify this formula to achieve results that are a little more accurate. Here is Joe Nobody’s

modified USMC method:

If my BC begins with a .3, then I round the distance up. This works for 5.56 BCs

If my BC begins with a .4, then I round the distance down. This works for .308 BCs

I then use the exact same math as the USMC teaches.

Another method is to use a “pull-up,” or flash card. This method involves pre-computing the

effect of wind on your specific weapon and load. Since we are talking about combat-accurate

weapons being used at the extreme extent of their range, this is an excellent solution. For my

5.56 NATO rifle, mine looks like the chart below (Figure 12.14).

You will notice that I have converted the inches of drift to MOA. This is because the optic I

would be using has adjustment turrets that are scaled in MOA. If I have a 3 o’clock 10 mph wind

with a target distance of 400 yards, then I have 4.4 MOA to adjustment. My scope, as an

example, is .25 MOA per click, so I would count off 18 clicks right.

You will notice that the adjustments on the right-hand side of the compass have a slightly lower

value than the corresponding entries on the left. This is because my rifle has a right-hand twist,

meaning the groves in the barrel are cut in a spiral to the right. The bullet squirts out of the

muzzle spinning clockwise. Decades ago, when I first heard of barrel twist, I thought the effect


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was something to worry about only at extreme distances. For my old M1 Carbine (.30), it didn’t

seem to make any difference in my shots out to 150 or so – about the best you can do with a

Korean Surplus, worn-out rifle.

As I graduated to higher muzzle velocity weapons, I started noticing a difference.

In those days, we practiced in a valley where targets were set up at both ends of a 300-yard flat

area. The drill was to fire at one end until everything was knocked down or so full of holes you

couldn’t discriminate the last shot. We would walk down, reset targets, and then shoot back at

targets set up at our original starting line. This back and forth, two-ended shooting gallery

allowed for more shooting and less walking. If there were a crosswind, and there normally was,

you would notice the same rifle, ammunition, and shooter printing just a tad higher with a little

less drift going one direction than the other.

I won’t bore you with a long dissertation of Bernoulli Principle physics, but let it suffice to say

that the spin of the bullet allows it to “sail” the headwind ever so slightly. At least that’s what I

have read and heard from many ballistic professionals. The bullet doesn’t rise, mind you – it just

doesn’t drift or drop as much.


Click, Click, Click

Once you have established your point of aim, there is yet another decision to be made. You have

the choice of “holding off,” adjusting your optic, or a hybrid approach using both methods.

Holding off means you compensate for bullet drop and windage visually. Rather than hold the

crosshairs on the target, you move them to center on a point that includes all adjustments.

In reality, there are so many variables in this decision it is difficult for someone writing a book to

recommend one method over the other. If your reticle is etched with multiple adjustment

features, holding off may be the answer. If your scope isn’t designed for field adjustments, you

may not have any alternative.

The number of targets at range may also impact your thinking. In the mortar crew scenario at

the beginning of this section, there are multiple targets clustered in a small group. In that

environment, adjusting the optic may be the right choice, allowing the operator can concentrate

on putting the crosshairs on the target rather than adjusting for hold.


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Many snipers click off windage adjustments but use a holdover for drop. Other shooters like this

hybrid approach, but execute the opposite corrections. I have found that experience with

converting MILs to MOA has a lot to do with the way many operators choose to compensate.

For me, I almost always use holdoff. The long-range shot is the exception in my typical role, so

for me to start fiddling with scope knobs, messing with my zero (or lack thereof) is a bit much.

This is especially true if I am in a situation where the odds are strong that after the long shot I

may be engaging threats closer in.

Control

The term “control” is my own. You won’t find it in any military manual or training class that I

know of. Control speaks to the few minutes prior to the shot and the process is completely

mental.

Breathing is probably the most critical aspect of control. The average human completes a full

cycle in inhaling and exhaling every 5 to 6 seconds. It takes 2 seconds to both inhale and exhale

which leaves about 2 seconds where the diaphragm is inactive. The length of this inactive period

can supposedly be extended to 8-10 seconds with little effort by the shooter. I have never been

able to do this for more than two or three times without starting to anticipate the cycle, which

causes my body to move.

What I have found to work for me is to gradually take just slightly deeper breaths at a normal

rate and then hold in the relaxed phase until taking the shot. The chart below (Figure 12.15)

depicts this method:


In reality, I have found that everyone controls breathing slightly differently. Depending on your

age, physical condition and other factors, minor variations of this method should work.

The critical part is that you establish a routine and stick to it. Snipers train by exerting

themselves (running, exercise, etc…) until they are breathing hard and then force themselves to

enter a cycle similar to the one above. Since you can’t predict what the situation will be when

you need to take a shot, there may be times where you have had to move quickly into position

carrying a load of gear. Having confidence that you can get your breathing under control in an

already stressful engagement is half the battle.

Another item in the category of Control is relaxing your body. Most people don’t take this factor

seriously enough. Many beginners will have an attitude of “Okay, I’m relaxed…I’m Mister Jack

Frost…what next?” when told to relax. This is a mistake. You should relax your entire body to the

point of urination. (I learned quickly that I should empty my bladder before practicing long-

range lead delivery). Flatulence is common. I start at my toes and mentally work my way up,

relaxing every muscle along the way. You should attempt to be so de-tensed your trigger finger

feels too weak to squeeze.

Relaxation ties back into the subject of Position from above. If the weapon is not properly

supported, you won’t be able to completely relax. In the field, achieving a position that provides

100% support of the weapon is rare. It is a worthy investment of time and effort to get as close

as possible, however.


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Trigger

When comparing off-the-shelf rifles to sniper rifles, one of the first things most people notice is

the trigger. The amount of pull required to engage the firing pin is measured in pounds, and on a

long-distance weapon the pull is much less than the typical combat blaster requires. Most mid-

range battle rifles have a trigger pull between 6-8 pounds. Unless modified by the operator, this

is the approximate specification used by many militaries for several different reasons, with

safety being one of the primary justifications.

A long-range military weapon is often fielded with a lighter trigger pull of four pounds or less.

Many competition rifles release at just over a pound.

There is a lot more to a good trigger than pull weight. Some shooters prefer a two-stage trigger

while others like a single. Almost everyone agrees that the release should be smooth and quite

clean. It is common to see trigger action being described as a “glass smooth,” and having a

“clean break.”

In recent years, some very interesting high-speed micro-camera footage has been filmed

concerning the firing cycle of weapons. If you have the chance, I recommend you study some of

these videos.

Zeroing Mid-Range Rifles

To many shooters, zeroing a long-range rifle is no big deal. Many folks go to a known distance

range, hang their target at 100 yards, and use 2-5 rounds of ammo aligning the crosshairs. They

spend the hunting season happy as a sailor on shore leave in Rio, successfully harvesting game

out to 200 yards or so.

Hunters operating in a more challenging environment may purchase equipment and develop

skills capable of longer ranges and more extreme conditions, but few civilians regularly execute

shots of greater than 800 meters.

One exception is NRA F-Class competitors. They are no strangers to organized, regulated

matches held at 1,000 yards and have several categories of equipment and scoring.


For the purposes of this book, the definition of long-range shooting is 1,000 yards and beyond.

This is a completely new world for most people. The tolerances allowed from an equipment

perspective are so finite that frustration can quickly set in and many contenders simply give up.

More so than any other topic in the book, achieving the level of Shootist for long-range

encounters depends on having the proper hardware.

Most firearms enthusiasts have some knowledge of the different military sniper schools at Fort

Benning, Camp Robinson or Kaneohe Bay. (The Marines train some of their long-distance

shooters in Hawaii as well as other bases.) While these courses are taught by some of the most

skilled warriors in the world, what most people don’t think about is the quality of the armories

servicing these schools (as well as the snipers in the field). To me, the experts building the rifles,

mounting the optics, and manufacturing the ammunition are as important as the actual trigger

pullers where accuracy is concerned.

There is technically little difference in the process used to zero a 400-yard rifle versus a 1,200-

yard weapon. There is, however, a huge difference in the margin of error allowed with the

weapon and optics.

While practically every component of a high dollar accu-blaster is more refined than its lower

cost cousins, there are a few critical factors that you, as the Shootist, can control with any

weapon.

There are four factors involved in zeroing longer-range weapons:

Canting – The scope or optic being level with the barrel (left to right)

Incline – The rifle barrel and optic being perfectly level (forward to back)

Vertical – The optic being aligned for the bullet to impact, with drop at the distance desired

Horizontal – The optic being aligned so the bullet doesn’t impact right or left

Most novice shooters worry about vertical and horizontal alignment and have little concern

about canting or incline. Depending on the distances involved and the caliber of the weapon,

these factors may not make that big of difference for some shots.

For extreme distances, all four variables are critical. If you attempt to zero a new weapon or

optic the first time without at least one level in your shooting bag, you are wasting time. There is

no way to measure incline and cant by the naked eye.


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If, and this is a big if, the weapon’s optic were mounted perfectly level, on a perfectly level rail

that was perfectly aligned and level with the barrel, and you zeroed the rifle from a position of a

perfect 0 degree incline and a perfect 0 degree cant – then you could adjust the aim point of the

optic at 25 yards in two shots or so and call it a day. Without some additional equipment, I don’t

know of any way to accomplish this.

Before the advent of magnifying optics, the shooter didn’t have so much to worry about. Iron

sights were used, and the quality of the gunsmith was more of a factor than any adjustments by

the owner. If the front post were perfectly aligned to the centerline of the barrel, zeroing the

weapon was simpler. The limited range of early firearms allowed for some degree of error

without the shooter even noticing any misalignment. While the advent of magnifying optics has

increased the effective range of most shooters, this additional capability doesn’t come for free.

To become a world-class long-range Shootist, there are numerous aspects you have to grasp to

even zero the weapon, let alone put lead on target.

The first, and arguably, most important question you should answer is:

At what distance should I zero my rifle?

Among some shooters, this question is the equivalent of asking the name of the greatest war

movie ever made - opinions vary. Among Shootists, there is less debate as the answer is based

more on facts than opinion.

In order for you to determine the range at which you should zero a weapon, there are some

terms that you must both understand and consider. The following sections cover those topics:

Field of View (FOV)

When using a scope, the field of view is the area that can be seen through the optic at 100 yards

(or meters on some optics). For zeroing a weapon, FOV is important to know/understand

because of bullet drop. If the bullet is going to drop more than the FOV of your optic before

striking the target, it becomes difficult to determine the proper holdover. With practically all

modern optics, the situation described above is not an issue. What is important is the

combination of the reticle being used and the FOV at desired range.

Limits of Adjustment

Most riflescopes have a limited amount of adjustment available for both the horizontal and

vertical reticle lines. Typically, the more expensive the optic, the more adjustment is available.


Let’s say that you have a scope capable of 30 MOA total adjustment. That can mean a limit of 15

MOA up or down on the horizontal line.

As shown in the section, Establishing the Ballistic Coefficient, my short-barreled M4 can

experience bullet drops of over 78 inches at 500 yards. At that distance, each MOA is five inches,

so the example 15 MOA scope can only adjust 75 inches. I can’t adjust the scope enough to

compensate for the distance and drop.

If I were to zero my weapon at 200 yards, then I would reduce that bullet drop to around 54

inches which is within the range of my optic. Zeroing my weapon at 300 yards would allow

additional leeway.

Many optics allow adjustments of 90 MOA or more, but you should be sure before selecting a

range at which to zero your rifle.

There is also the option of a ramped mounting system, which has a built in rise of some number

of degrees. If using a dedicated rifle for longer distances these devices may be of benefit. For a

weapon that is used for both shorter-range engagements and mid-to-long encounters, the ramp

would cause close-in shots to go extremely high and require additional compensation.

Operating Range

The single most important aspect of determining what range to choose in zeroing your rifle is

the area of operations (AO) you will be working in. Obviously, open terrain such as prairies or

deserts would push the distance, while forest, urban or other limited distance environments

would reduce the distance. I have found that most shooters overestimate both the

requirements of their AO and their capabilities as an individual. Some guys believe the length of

their zero is like the length of certain other male components – the greater the length, the

better.

This is not the attitude of a Shootist. A professional understands that over-zeroing a weapon

makes close-in shots more difficult, leading to additional OODA loops.

I recommend you take a conservative approach to choosing the range at which you zero your

weapon.

Ballistics and Zeroing

Obviously, the trajectory of your bullet is a significant factor in the distance at which you choose

to zero any weapon. I know professionals who zero their ARs at 25 yards because of the ballistic

characteristics of 5.56 M855 military-issued ammunition. You will find various opinions ranging


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from this short-range zero all the way to 300 meters (USMC BZO and Army TM9-1005-319-10). In

reality, I always believed the 300-meter zero was silly. The average engagement distance for

both forces is 150 meters, and the rifle will shoot about 5 inches high at that zero. The closer the

threat, the higher the impact. A 200-meter zero makes more sense. At 200 meters, there is an

intersection at 50 yards, which is a common distance on civilian ranges. This all, of course,

assumes you are using ammo with identical ballistics as M855 military spec.

My recommendation, given the three topics above, is to access a free ballistics calculator on the

internet and plug in the specifics of your fighting ammunition as it performs using your weapon.

Look for a distance to zero that has reasonable intersections, such as those described in the 200

meter zero above.

I have investigated several software options to satisfy this requirement. In my opinion, one of

the best ballistic calculators on the web can be found by performing a search on “JBM Ballistics.”

Summary on Distance to Zero

Given the four factors above, you should be able to determine the distance to zero your weapon

for mid-range activities. Determination of the proper distance to zero a weapon is only the first

step.

Level Playing Field

It’s quiz time! How many readers have ever taken a bubble level or shooting sled to the range to

zero a rifle? While I don’t frequent public ranges that often, I have never seen anyone at the

range with a bubble level. I don’t need to take of my shoes and socks to count the number of

times I’ve seen someone with a sled. How anyone can feel confident in their weapon’s zero

without one or the other of these helpers is beyond me.

As stated above, there are four factors you need to manage while zeroing any weapon. Let’s

begin with cant.

When a rifle is canted, it is tilted to the right or left. If the optics were properly installed, a large

degree of canting can be seen with the naked eye. Anything less than 5 degrees is difficult to

detect while focusing on the target and all of the other factors involved.


Using a digital level or other method to assure your weapon isn’t leaning left or right during the

zeroing process will increase the accuracy of your shots at all distances. If the weapon is zeroed

at 100 yards with a five degree cant by accident, your shot can be off as much as 5 inches at 300

yards.

This problem occurs in the field while shooting as well. There are several different products used

to correct this condition (normally with the stance or grip on the rifle). You can purchase scope

mounts with bubble levels built in.

There are also devices which attach to riflescopes or even the

rails which can be used during training to adjust your grip/stance.

There is no excuse for zeroing your blaster from an uneven

position. Even if you never expect to take a shot greater than the

200-yard line, you are not milking every last drop of accuracy

from your weapon.

The same can be said for the incline of the weapon barrel to stock. Not all ranges are level, and

even if the terrain is relatively flat, are the targets at the same height as the weapon? Even a few

degrees of difference at a 25 yard zero can make a big difference on a 500-yard engagement.

Again, there is no reason to bypass knowing the actual distance to the target given any incline.

Let’s do the math:

You are zeroing your rifle at the 50-yard line. The facility is equipped with bench rests and

sandbags. The targets are hung on chicken wire strung between posts. Due to the berm, the

targets are downhill from the benches. Most military ranges are very flat. Most public ranges are

not.

You measure the downward angle (see Establishing a Ballistic Coefficient – Step 5) and find that

you have a 10 degree angle. The actual distance you are zeroing the rifle at is 49.5 yards. So, Mr.

Joe Nobody, what possible difference can one-half of one yard make? Take that half-yard, and

multiple it times 10 for a 500-yard threat. The rifle is zeroed for 490, but you calculate your drop

based on 500. For M855 mil-spec ammo out of a 16-inch AR15 barrel, that equates to a

difference of over 3 inches. Even if you had a 1 MOA rifle (rare for a battle rifle), at 500 that

means the bullet should impact within a 5 inch area. Add in the 3-inch error from a lazy zero and

you have a miss. All of this doesn’t even take into account the variance in ammunition. NATO

specifications call for M855 to adhere to a 2 MOA standard. All of these “tolerances” begin to

add up.


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Even at 300 yards, our ignored angle would make a difference of an inch or so. So if you

whispered to most shooters they could gain .33% MOA on their weapon for free, wouldn’t most

of us jump at the chance? Measuring the incline at time of zero can buy that .33%.

Accuracy versus Consistency

How many times have you read or heard, “My rifle will group 5 rounds in 2 inches?” This is

consistency. For a fighting weapon, the proper statement is, “My rifle will put 5 rounds in the 10

ring.” That is accuracy.

Grouping, for a battle rifle, means very little.

Conditions at Zero

In Chapter 13 - DOPERS, there is considerable coverage of what kit is required to accomplish the

seven steps for point of aim. Whatever you determine your field kit to be, you should use the

exact same equipment to zero your rifle.

If you have a laser range finder with built-in angle compensation, use it at the range. If you are

using a handheld weather station, use it at the range.

You should record the conditions of your final zero as soon as possible, with as much data as is

available.


Chapter 13

DOPERS

Throughout this work I have mentioned DOPE, or Data on Previous Engagements, several times.

DOPE is typically associated with long-distance encounters. This begs the critical question of

what constitutes long-distance.

I look at DOPE a little differently than most. The first consideration is, “What do I need?” This is

followed closely by, “What can I access when I have the need?”

Obviously, these needs vary depending on the situation. If I am zeroing my F-Class rifle, I have

different requirements than if I am snapping a shot at our fictional mortar crew from above. The

typical individual who hasn’t attended sniper school tends to gravitate to one extreme or the

other in regards to DOPE. Either they record little to nothing, or they carry around the

equivalent of the Encyclopedia Britannia.

Accessing DOPE in the field is very dependent on the situation. A sniper may move into a hide or

other fixed position where he can access all kinds of DOPE via various tools and media. He may

have time to “laze” several landmarks, draw windage charts, and thoroughly document the

surrounding landscape.

A person fulfilling more of an infantry role may only have a few seconds to send a round.

For my purposes and those of this writing, I recommend the shooter work backwards and

approach this decision from that perspective. The first question is:

How much kit do you want to carry?

A range finder, weather station, ballistic computer, notepad, and pencil might be kit-worthy for

some roles, while others would find that load excessive. As I continue to stress in all of my

books:

Ounces = pounds and pounds = pain

I’m not the only one to recognize this dilemma. There has been a plethora of devices, gadgets

and other technology developed to address this problem. The sheer number of watches on the

market that provide ballistic solutions is an example. The number of ballistic applications for


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smart phones would be another. These days, you can purchase laser range finders that have

ballistic compensation built in (to some extent). There are even dedicated ballistic calculators

and handheld computers. Some scope manufacturers will build a scope complete with reticle to

match your rifle’s ballistics.

In recent months (as of this writing), developments in cell phone technology makes it difficult to

argue against all shooters having all electronic DOPE stored in their smart phones. My personal

model has a Kevlar frame, is water-resistant, and has more computer power than a laptop of

just a few years ago. It has GPS, numerous mapping options, ballistics software and spreadsheet

capabilities. There is even free software available that uses the camera as a range finder with

built in angle/cosine compensation. It can give me weather conditions at a reasonable proximity

to my location, and that data is probably as accurate as what I could estimate by hand.

If you are like me, you don’t fully trust electronic devices in the field. Having experienced

numerous failures personally, I feel such an attitude is warranted. I have to keep reminding

myself of the fact that those gizmos have functioned well more often than not – significantly

more often. So, just like many operators equip their weapon with BUIS (Backup Iron Sights), I

believe in BUDA, or Backup DOPE Access.

This can be accomplished with very little additional weight – less than a few ounces. It involves

tried and true old-fashioned paper and not very many trees will perish in the process. This also

gives me some level of confidence as anyone with extensive field experience knows:

1 = 0 and 2 = 1

In most situations, I will go with some electronic helpers as well as my paper backup.

So the next logical question becomes, “What DOPE do I need?”

Again, the anticipated role should answer this question. For the purposes of this book, with 600

meter or less threats, the inventory of formulas and charts is actually quite small. If you were

going into the field for long-range sniping, say at 1200 meters or more, then you would kit-up

with additional tools and data.

It’s not difficult to build multiple redundancies. Here is my typical load out:

Cell Phone (stored in plastic bag - weak side, internal zipper compartment of load vest)

GPS

Map


Ballistic software

Ballistic history (spreadsheet format)

Weather Station

Calculator

Compass

Wristwatch

Barometer

Altimeter

Compass

Temperature

Flash Cards (sometimes called pull-up cards)

o Formulas

o Windage Chart

o Trajectory Chart

Probably most people have seen pictures of snipers

with DOPE sheets taped to their rifle stocks or glued to

the inside of their scope caps. With many modern rifle

stocks and pistol grips, there are all kinds of little

storage compartments in the weapon itself. Mostly you

should probably be keeping spare batteries, springs or

firing pins in these cubby holes, but some guys roll up

small DOPE sheets or flash cards inside.

I like a good old notebook. You can purchase models

which sport water-resistant paper in most camping

stores and some sporting goods outlets. Often, they

market their product with claims like “write anywhere”

or similar branding.

These handy little spiral bound units come in several

sizes and can be stored in pockets or a load vest

alongside maps, call signals and other items.


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I purchased self-adhesive laminate coverings and adhered my basic, “all the electronics have

gone to hell,” flash cards to the front and back cover of my notebook. I have one such book for

each rifle.

When I have my cell phone, range finder, and wristwatch, I have redundancy in several areas

without much weight. Some shooters don’t want to bother with a notepad, so it is no big deal to

print out your DOPE, laminate it, and store it elsewhere.

Tip: I have found some brands of paper show up better when viewed through night

vision than others. If you want to be able to view your DOPE without using a flashlight

or other illumination, test your DOPE sheets beforehand.

DOPE Hoarding

Some guys are hoarders of every little detail about their reloads, rifles, shooting sessions and

weather conditions. I cannot fault this whatsoever. I categorize DOPE into three categories:

Reference – Formulas, charts, tables and graphs used to back up my electronic helpers

Ammunition – Detailed records regarding date, loads, chargers, primers, and process.

Shots – Both at the range and money shots. This includes competitions, range sessions and any

other occasions where I am sending a round more than 300 meters.


Reference DOPE was addressed above.

Ammunition DOPE (technically logs) is typically kept either in a logbook or documented on the

ammunition storage container. I do a little of both since not all of my ammo is stored in the

same place. The basic information I keep on a spreadsheet is:

Date

Bullet Weight

Bullet Manufacturer

Bullet Metro-standard BC data

Bullet Sectional Density

Primer Make/Model

Powder Make and Model

Powder Charge (Weight)

Case (manufacturer)

Case (trim length)

Overall length

For logging information about actually shooting, you can’t beat the Army’s form used in sniper

schools and other courses. You can download a free copy from several places on the web,

looking much like the copy below.


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Form 5788-R is one of three commonly used by military sharpshooters and covers all of the

critical information most people need to record for DOPE.


Chapter 14

Ballistics and Reloading

Overview

There are numerous sources of excellent information for those new to reloading. The internet is

full of blogs, forums, and dedicated websites that are free to the reader and probably do a

better job than I could in getting you started. I would be duplicating those efforts if repeated

here. I would encourage you to take the time and hone this skill. The serious Shootist will turn a

lot of “money into smoke.” In other words, to keep your materials cost down, reloading is a

must.

The Knowledge Center at the Midway U. S. A. website contains several videos and how-to

guides. Almost every major manufacturer of reloading equipment and supplies publishes both

books and free information online that will assist the novice. I also recommend “The ABC’s of

Reloading” by Bill Chevalier as a solid beginner’s guide.

There are also countless sources of advanced information available in both books and videos.

Find out what works to get you started. Personally, I have been policing my brass and reloading

for over 30 years. Once you get the hang of it, the repetition involved with this activity can be

very therapeutic.

What I found lacking in the world of reloading information was advice and techniques to help

me organize and produce quality ammunition in larger quantities. Most sources address either

the beginner or those wishing to produce specialty rounds. Sources abound for creating high

quality but low volumes of cartridges.

My intent with this section is to cover ground that addresses the specific needs of the Shootist

and provides some insight and tips that I have learned over the years. Most home reloaders

don’t consume as many rounds as I do per month, and that appetite for lead has taught some

valuable lessons.


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Reloading and the Shootist

Over the years I have worked with both military/professional operators and civilians. One topic

that always seems to come up with civilians is the expense involved in reaching the pinnacle of

firearm skills.

The average Joe Nobody is at a disadvantage because military units and law enforcement

departments (at least SWAT teams) normally provide weapons and ammunition free of charge

to their members.

In my experience, reaching and maintaining peak skills requires shooting 2,000 – 3,000 rounds

per month. As of this writing, purchasing quality off-the-shelf ammo would result in an expense

of $1,200 to $1,600 per month. That is a lot of cash. By the time you throw in optics, furniture,

buying and testing new equipment, wear and tear on weapons and travel expenses, it wouldn’t

be outrageous to budget $2,000 per month.

Even if this number doesn’t sound all that bad to some readers, you still have a disadvantage in

the consistency of your ammo. Military and LE units purchase huge lots of ammunition and most

factory ammo is reasonably consistent within specific lots or runs. In addition, most sizable

organizations have specifications that suppliers are required to meet, so everyone is using

standardized rounds.

Civilians normally purchase what is on sale, and spend a lot of money trying to determine what

works best in their variant of whatever weapon platform they choose. Let’s say you get good

results from military spec M855 ammunition in your AR15. How often is M855 on sale? If similar

ammo were advertised at $150 cheaper per 1,000 rounds, wouldn’t most people consider it?

Another problem for civilians is availability. Over the last four years, I have seen several periods

of time where M855 simply wasn’t available. This could translate into a month or two of

different results while training with a different type of ammo.

Fortunately, everyday ol’Joes can turn this situation around to their advantage.

Personally, I believe having your ammo handed to you in bulk at no charge is a negative with

regards to becoming a Shootist. There are several reasons why:

Ammo is like anything else – if you have to spend your own money for every round, you

respect and appreciate it more.


Making your own ammunition results in better consistency.

Making your own ammunition results in higher quality.

Reloading fosters more in-depth knowledge of ballistics and performance.

Reloading allows for more training time at less cost.

Very few military professionals reload their own rounds. The average trooper or Marine has

extensive duties, limited income, and higher priorities. They wouldn’t be permitted to use their

homegrown products anyway. I have found a slightly larger percentage of law enforcement

professionals reload, but compared to civilians, the number is still low. Again, duty calls.

As mentioned earlier in this work, a Shootist understands ballistics. This is more than simple

memorization of ballistic coefficients, feet per second of various powder loads and the bullet

drop of certain types of ammunition. Before diving into specifics, some background information

is in order.

I started reloading back in the early 80’s when I shot IPSC. Back in those days, I couldn’t afford

enough practice rounds to stay competitive. Thus, I started reloading. I bought a press, dies, and

a book and proceeded to get in even less practice due to jamming attributed to my reloads. It

takes a while, but like everything else, reloading is actually very simple and safe. Over time, I

improved.

I shoot the stated 2,000-3,000 rounds a month, so reloading is essential from an economic

perspective. Add in my family members’ rounds, and the number goes nowhere but up. My

personal belief is that “rolling my own” is essential from a performance point of view as well.

Practically all nationally ranked, competitive distance shooters will tell you that making your

own ammo is essential to compete at their level. This is due to a variety of reasons. Most

shooters believe the secret to quality ammunition is primarily based on consistency. If each

round performs exactly as the previous shot, it becomes a simple matter of zeroing the weapon,

and the shots should all impact as desired. This isn’t exactly true. While consistency is extremely

important, accuracy involves more than simply having the same amount of powder in each

cartridge.

To begin with, factory ammunition is both accurate and reliable to various levels. Match grade

or national match ammo is manufactured to exacting standards, and it would seem impossible

for anyone to create more consistent loads by hand. This fact is not disputed by anyone who

operates a reloading press. What most shooters don’t realize is the variance between lot


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numbers of the same brand and specification can result in significant differences in

performance.

Long-distance competition riflemen obtain world-class accuracy by pre-shaping the brass

(casing). This is accomplished by firing the round through the weapon once and then reloading it

for competition. This is a process a factory can’t replicate. This is effective because every

chamber of every weapon is different. The same can be said of barrels, even within the same lot

and model of rifle. Milking that last .25 MOA out of a long-range rifle often requires

experimenting with a few grains of powder more or less as well.

Probably the most important factor for the Shootist is compensating for the free bore of any

specific weapon. Of all of the variables involved with reloading as it pertains to accuracy,

adjusting the overall length of the round per specific rifle has had the greatest impact. This topic

will be covered in-depth below.

While the majority of this book is not concerned with pinpoint accuracy, there are performance

advantages involved with reloading for combat range shooting as well.

Establishing Requirements

My go to weapon is an M4 carbine, 5.56 NATO with a 14.5-inch barrel. I have found that 69

grain, hollow point, boat tail match bullets provide the best performance through this weapon.

Furthermore, I have found that 2760 feet per second delivers the best compromise of accuracy,

stability, and stopping power. I know of no brand of factory ammunition that provides these

exact specifications. Finding 69 grain match ammunition is difficult. Finding that bullet loaded

with just enough powder to fly at that velocity is impossible. In addition, the free bore of my

rifles (I have several identical setups) dictates that I seat the bullet at a very specific height “off

the lands.” I will go into some detail on this later.

The cynical, non-reloading reader may scoff at my narrow specification. Would 50-100 feet per

second really make that much difference in the performance of a battle rifle?

The answer is yes, it does.

Let’s take my specification and expand on the topic for a moment. My personal preferences are

meaningless and sited below only as an example, not a recommendation. What is important is

for every shooter to establish a set of parameters or requirements for the performance of their

weapon platform. My requirements are:


1. The round must have the maximum stopping power to take threats out of the fight.

2. The range required is 25 – 300 meters.

3. Reliability is the highest priority.

4. A non-magnified optic or iron sights will be used, thus holdover should be minimal.

5. My weapon has a 1x8 rate of twist – bullet stabilization is critical.

Over the years, I experimented with bullet weights ranging from 55 to 77 grains. I have tested

velocities and chamber pressures ranging from anemic to stressing the max of the weapon.

Numerous feral hog and other game animals were dissected to determine flesh damage and

bullet fragmentation. At one point, I spent countless late nights reading battle damage

assessments from two different wars. I have purchased hundreds of dollars of ballistic gel and

wrapped the blocks in various articles of clothing to simulate likely encounters. We even took a

freshly harvested deer, dressed it up in a load vest complete with loaded AK47 magazines and

shot through the chest rig (and mags) from different distances to gauge the penetration. I have

consulted with countless experts on the topic. I feel confident with my fighting ammunition in all

but the most extreme circumstances. Every shooter should take the field feeling the same way.

If nothing else, the confidence will help during critical moments when your life is on the line.

Since these days I have to pay for my own ammo and more importantly my own weapons, I

need every economical advantage I can get. For example, a great money saver involves loading

practice rounds that mimic the ballistics of fighting ammunition.

As of this writing, 1,000 bullets of my preferred fighting rounds cost about $170. I can purchase

55 grain “cheapies” for around $100 per 1,000. I can load cartridges using the less expensive

bullets that have similar ballistics to my fighting rounds and save thousands of dollars per year.

While the bargain bullets do not have the same terminal characteristics, during training both

pop a balloon or punch a hole through paper quite well.

Since our hunger for ammo is more intense than the average rifleman, I have focused my efforts

into more of an assembly line type of operation than the average reloader. Regardless of your

intent concerning reloading, the following information and tips may be helpful. A brief primer

follows:

There are three major stages involved in reloading:

1. Case Preparation

2. Primer and Charge (powder)

3. Bullet seating and Inspection


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Several reloading equipment manufacturers sell reloading starter kits that contain the basic

tools required for all three steps. While an excellent place to start, most people find they quickly

outgrow the equipment contained in these kits. My first starter kit was purchased over 30 years

ago. Today, almost all of the original components lie in a drawer having been replaced by more

automated or advanced models – or just simply worn out. To reiterate, starter kits are an

excellent place to get your feet wet in the world of reloading and can offer a small economical

advantage out of the gate. The equipment discussed below is more expensive and capable.

I reload three calibers (.45, 5.56 and .308 WIN) and that’s it. If you are into wildcatting or

custom work, you are probably more skilled at the workbench than I am and won’t find much

value in this chapter.

Note: For those readers who question why I use a NATO specification (5.56) on one weapon

versus the SAMMI (.308 Winchester) on another, there is a method to my madness. The .308

WIN allows for chamber pressures of 62,000 PSI while the NATO 7.62x51 spec is 50,000 PSI. You

can shoot 7.62 x 51 in a weapon chambered for .308, but not vice versa. There are some

differences in head spacing as well.

The reverse is true of the 5.56 NATO versus the .223 Remington. The NATO round allows for a

more potent load. If you shoot the AR platform, you should make sure your weapon is

chambered for both. These days, that is practically a given, but it never hurts to double-check.

I reload three ‘levels’ of ammo for all three calibers:

1. Fighting – Factory, or new brass only, digital powder weight, match grade bullets

2. Target – chamber sized, once fired, fighting rounds, digital powder weight, match grade

bullets

3. Training – older brass, lighter powder, cheap bullets

Among serious bullet smiths, my activities are very limited in scope. Many people reload dozens

of different calibers as well as inventing their own (wildcatting). Reloading is one of those skill

sets that you can burrow very deeply into – even to the point of making your own primers and

pouring your own brass cases if desired.

My suggestion is to walk before your run, especially with something that can damage your

weapons as well as cause bodily harm if things go wrong.

My reloading is motivated by increasing my skills as a Shootist and the fact that I enjoy it. After

retirement, one of my goals is to increase my knowledge base and capabilities in this area and


enjoy the effort as a hobby. For now, schedule regulates that I spend the majority of my bench

time just keeping up with the demand for ammunition.

Case Prep

Most of the work in reloading is case prep. We recently did a 15,000 round, 4-day weekend and

ended up with buckets of brass.

Every single piece has to be tumbled. We clean so much brass the electric bill probably looks like

my household is involved in some sort of illegal activity. Tumbling involves a piece of equipment

that is normally not included in starter kits. This machine is called, of all things, a “tumbler.”


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I would advise the reader to purchase as large a tumbler as budget will allow. It hurts nothing to

run this device less-than-full, and there will be times when tumbling brass is a bottleneck in the

reloading process.

Tip: On the initial tumbling, don’t waste time and electricity cleaning the brass to a

luster.

My process has some categories of brass being cleaned three times. The initial cleaning should

be enough to remove the carbon and other die-fowling residue before de-priming and resizing

the cases.

After tumbling, we size each case and then measure each for length. Sizing a case involves using

a die and pressing the brass. Most sizing steps remove the old, used primer as well. After the

brass has been sized, you have to measure each and every single one. About 45% will need

trimming, which is the worst part of reloading in my book. We have an electric RCBS case


trimmer and also run a manual one to boot. You can purchase once fired, pre-trimmed brass,

and this might be worth the expense if you are building up an inventory of ammo.

Tip: Contrary to many learned sources of reloading, I don’t sort brass for training

rounds. I have never found it made that much difference. I do keep the fighting and

target rounds sorted by weapon and caliber. The case wall thickness on a 5.56 cartridge

is slightly thicker than a .223 Rem. Since my fighting rounds are maxed out, I use 5.56

brass for these loads.

Tip: Nothing sizes brass like being fired through a weapon, so if you track which gun

was used, you can have very accurate brass for the next reload.

Tip: RCBS (and others) make something called a 3-way trimmer. IT IS WORTH THE

MONEY! It will trim, de-chafe and de-bur the brass all at the same time. This saves a lot

of time.

Tip: I don’t wash (with liquid) training rounds. It’s not worth the time/trouble. I do wash

target rounds and use a Hornady sonic cleaner (pictured below). It’s worth the money

as well.


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We still run a lot cases through a trim, de-bur, de-chafe process, and make sure the primer

pocket is sized and clean.

We run both a single stage press and a multi-stage press. A single stage press performs one

action per pull of the lever. A multi-stage press performs up to four actions, such as size, de-

prime, seat a new primer, and load powder, with one pull. Multi-stage presses are sometimes

referred to as indexing presses. Right now the multi-stage press is a Hornady (on the left in the

picture below – 14.5), but I have used Dillon and Lee equipment as well. You can’t go wrong

with a Hornady or a Dillon. Our single stage is a RCBS (on the right in the picture below), which is

known for making quality products too.

Primer and Charge

When reloading training ammo, I use the multi-stage press, and when creating a batch of target

or fighting rounds I use the single stage press.


A multi-stage press can create a lot of rounds-per-hour. I have read some internet forums where

guys claim output above 400 rounds per hour. I have never achieved that level of output.

Counting case prep, about 200 per hour is the best I have been able to do.

Tip: I use “Narrow Base Case Dies” for 5.56 (.223) and .308 (7.62) rounds. I believe

most major manufacturers offer them. I use RCBS. A narrow case die feeds an auto-

loading rifle better than the normal dies.

We prime all rounds - and for training rounds, perform the initial powder load using a powder

drop on the multi-stage press. Since the tolerance for this category of ammo is wider than the

more potent fighting and target loads, I feel confident using this faster process. I use a stock

Hornady or RCBS powder charger. These units are consistent with my favorite smokeless

(Winchester 748 for rifle) cartridges with a mean differential of about one grain.


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Tip: Different types of powder have different consistencies/shapes. Some are pellet-

shaped granules; some are small balls while others are tubular. Not all powder drops will

function as consistently with all types of powder.

Tip: Pay special attention to your powder dispenser as its storage tube nears empty. I

have found a significant deviation with some types of powder between a full tube and

one nearing the bottom of the barrel. This is no doubt due to the fuller tube applying

slightly more downward pressure on the powder as it is “cupped” during the cycle. One

method of negating this issue is to keep your tube close to full as you process the batch.

Tip: Powder dispensing devices become dirty. The residue from pounds of material

going through these tools can build up. I clean my reloading equipment on a regular

schedule, just like my weapons. The good news is that the same tools and materials

used to clean weapons work well on your reloading gear.

There are powder-dispensing units that can be used on a multi-stage press and are reported to

be extremely accurate and very consistent. I have never tried any of these devices because I

want to hand-inspect each and every one of my fighting rounds, and that manual step would

negate the purpose anyway. For fighting and target loads, I use a digital scale (pictured below)

from Lyman. While slower than the multi-stage powder drop, it is so consistent that I find it

worth the time.

If I am reloading training rounds, I still check every fifth round on a scale. “Load creep” is real,

and many people start to ignore this step after seeing the same results from hundreds of

charges. This is dangerous. Check how much explosive you are putting into your weapon, which

will end up a few inches from your face.

Tip: Some people have reported florescent lights interfere with digital scales. I’ve never

had any issue, but you should be a prudent shopper if you are considering this

expensive piece of equipment.


Tip: I have found ZERO difference in primer quality, and I have used just about every

brand out there including Wolf (yes, Russian primers). I know some folks think the

brand of primer impacts accuracy, but I have never seen it. I buy what is cheap.

Tip: If you are using a semi-automatic rifle, bump firing can be an issue with soft case

primers. Some manufacturers, such as CCI, offer primers that are “hard case” units. I

have never had an issue with this, but others have posted about it on-line. Magnum

primers are also reported to have a harder case.

Tip: I reload training rounds with cheap bullets, normally purchased in bulk from the ads

in Shotgun News or when my local reloading store offers a deal on 1,000 count boxes.

Tip: Cheap bullets (5.56) are typically 55 grain soft nose lead or SP as some call them. I

use powder loads that keep these rounds down around 2780 FPS, which is EXACTLY

where the heavy 69 grain fighting and target rounds push air. Since the cases are older,

dirtier and receive less attention, I like a lighter powder charge in them but still have

reasonably the same zero on the rifles out to 250 or so.

Tip: I buy powder in 5 lb. cans if I can, but it is rare these days. I get about 275 training

rounds per pound of powder.


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I do not allow any bullets to be seated until I inspect every single powder charge. I normally

shine a flashlight into the trays, row-by-row. This slows down the process and offsets one of the

advantages of an indexing press, but I need to know every single round has powder.

Tip: I don’t think you can “overcharge” a .223 round with powder to the point where it

would hurt the weapon. The bullet would not seat. What is far, far more dangerous in

my experience is a round WITHOUT powder. The primer is enough to start the bullet

down the tube, but not push it all the way out. Fire the next round and…. well…. I am

unsure what would happen, but it can’t be good.

Tip: Another issue can be a popped primer. Nothing will lock up an M4 bolt carrier group

like a primer pinched between the lower and the internal moving parts. I have also had

errant primers fall down into the trigger, and that sucks. When we seat primers, if it

feels loose AT ALL, it goes into the re-cycle bag. Too much powder will pop a primer as

well, but on training rounds (less charge) or new brass (new primer pocket) you have to

really be asleep at the wheel for this to happen.

Bullet Seating and Inspection

Once I have verified each category of reload has powder, the next step is seating the actual

bullet into the primed and charged cases.

For the Shootist, this step can result in the greatest accuracy improvement associated with

reloading.

To begin with, every rifle has a section of the barrel called “free bore,” “leade,” or “throat.” This

is the area between the chamber and where the rifling begins. The size and shape of the free

bore varies by manufacturer and often between manufactured lots of barrels. The distance

between the shoulder of your bullet and where the actual lands and groves of the barrel begin is

critical in accuracy and performance of the rounds.

The reason why this small area is so critical has to do with the expanding gases pushing the

bullet down the barrel. If the bullet is seated too far from the rifling, the gases expand without

creating optimum pressure, and the bullet can start its flight wobbling. If there isn’t enough gap,

the pressures can exceed the desired levels and even bend the back of the bullet, shorten the

life of the barrel or damage the firearm. None of these are positive situations for the shot,

operator, or weapon.


For most weapons, the optimum bullet seating depth has the shoulder of the bullet barely

touching the rifling, sometimes with a few thousands of an inch gap between.

For my AR15 platform of weapons, I have found a gap of .02 “off the lands” is the most

effective. While I sacrifice a few feet per second of velocity, I find that the accuracy achieved is

worth that sacrifice.

So how do you determine the best seating depth and thus overall length for your reloads? There

are several different methods.

One method employs dropping a bullet into the chamber, verifying it has fallen to where it is

touching the lands, and then notching a cleaning rod or wooden dowel to measure the distance.

My personal favorite is to seat four or five cartridges (without

powder and primer) at various lengths. I then take a liquid product

called “Whiteout” or liquid paper, which is used to correct typos

or paint over errors on printed forms.

You can purchase liquid paper practically anywhere that sells

office or school supplies. Really, any colored liquid coating would

work but you should make sure the substance is easy to clean out

of your weapon. Some people report using a black marker is

enough, but I have never had success using this method.

I brush a thin coat of the paint-like liquid onto each bullet and

then chamber the pseudo-round. If possible, push the cartridge

into the chamber with your finger as using the bolt may cause

some of the paint to be scraped off. Extraction should be as gentle

as possible.

I then check the white coating to see if

the shoulder of the bullet has made it

to the lands. If the groves show low in

the paint, I repeat the same exercise

with a slightly shorter empty cartridge

until I know the correct length. I then

adjust my reloading dies to seat the


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bullet at the proper depth and clean the chamber of my weapon.

Most experts report that keeping the bullet a few thousandths off the lands provides the most

accurate results, and I have seen the same in my rifles. To verify this, I load 20 rounds with the

bullet barely touching the lands and then 20 rounds each at .02 and .04 off. I carefully label each

batch and then head for the range with my DOPE book. The method is always the same; make

sure and clean the weapon’s barrel between batches, and let it cool. Most people are very

surprised by the difference such a little gap makes.

There are tools that can measure this depth, and many reloaders employ them with great

success. Each manufacturer has its own specific brand name for such devices.

With usage, the free bore of any barrel will erode. This is often mistaken for a barrel being worn

out. I repeat my measurements every 5,000 rounds or so, and often find I need to adjust my

dies.

Most shooters report a remarkable improvement in accuracy when using properly seated

ammunition. On my AR15 rifles, I would estimate the average improvement to be .25 MOA. On

a few, the improvement has been nearly .50 MOA. At 100 yards, that is not a significant factor.

At 300 yards, that can be as much as 1.5 inches. That distance can be the difference between

properly ventilating an enemy versus having them brag to comrades while showing off the ropy

scar from where you almost got them.


TIP: I tumble the rounds after reloading. I know the instructions say NEVER to do this,

but I have been tumbling finished rounds for 25+ years and never had an issue. It takes

any residual lube or oil off of the cases, which reduces the chances of a failure to feed in

the weapon.

I store the training rounds in plastic bins with those little moisture absorption packets. I once

used surplus ammo cans, but I like these better because I can see the contents without opening

them up.

The fighting and target rounds get labeled and go into plastic cases.

Discovery and Verification

Many specialists in long-range power projection refer to the process of determining the best

round for any firearm as “discovery.”

Discovery involves gathering empirical data on several different variables regarding your

ammunition.

If you are going to get into reloading for maximum performance, there is a piece of equipment

that can be invaluable. The device is called a chronograph, and it measures how fast the bullet is

traveling through the air after being fired from a weapon.


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You basically shoot through the triangle-shaped brackets (right side of photo 14.9) and readouts

are displayed on the control panel (left side of photo). Knowing how your reloads react through

each exact weapon becomes invaluable when determining which recipe is going to work best for

the specific role of your firearms. A chronograph can be a great timesaver for any shooter,

especially those intent on delivering pain at longer distances. If you have an accurate

measurement of the bullet speed, calculations can be made to accurately predict the behavior

at long-distances using the ballistic coefficient as outlined in Section III. This capability can also

save a considerable amount of time checking the bullet drop at various distances while you are

trying several different powder loads.

In addition, I use my chronograph as a quality control device. If you shoot enough, you will wear

out barrels, ejector parts and other maintenance items. While I can generally tell when a rifle is

becoming sloppy, firing a few rounds and measuring the speed can verify if it’s time to rebuild a

weapon or check the seating depth due to erosion of free bore.

Tip: Keep a logbook and include chronograph speeds for various loads. You may be

surprised how often you go back and look at old data.

Another practice I have found invaluable is to number and label my magazines.

During the discovery phase, where you are trying to find the absolute best load for your

weapons, keeping records is critical.


While most people can look at the top bullet residing in a magazine and tell the difference

between one brand/model versus another, you should be experimenting with various powder

loads as well. There is no way to tell when the difference is just powder unless you have x-ray

vision. While I’m in the discovery phase with a new weapon, I can be seen at the local fixed

distance range doing as much writing as shooting. It really helps to be able to look in your DOPE

book and see, “Mag #8: 62gr Speer BTHP with 24gr of W748 loaded to .04 OTL.”

As I am shooting the various loads, I take copious notes on the weather conditions, shot

placement and other factors. All of this goes into a computer spreadsheet, because if you are

really performing proper discovery, you will accumulate a lot of data.

In reality, you should do this exercise regardless of reloading or not. If you can acquire several

different brands of factory ammo, you might be shocked at how well one type performs over

another. This information can be used to prioritize your Christmas list, if nothing else.

Uncle Joe’s Favorite Brews

I have received numerous emails and inquiries about my preferred ammunition. I am happy to

provide the information, but after reading the sections above, it should be clear that what works

best in my rifles, won’t necessarily perform well in yours.


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It should also be noted that I only use the highest quality rifles, and that I wear out barrels a

little faster than most.

Caliber Purpose Bullet Powder Notes

5.56 Training 55SP W748 – 22.5 Light charge to equal ballistics of fighting rounds

5.56 Fighting 70 BTHP W748 – 26.1 Potent – I only use new cases marked 5.56

.308 Training 155SP W748 – 41.5 Similar ballistics to the fight round below

.308 Fighting 168 BTHP W748 – 44.2 Suggest starting at 41.0 and working up

You should be very careful about these loads. I worked my way up to the powder charge being

used for fighting rounds. On the AR15 family of weapons, you need to be aware that the

maximum chamber pressure allowed for a 5.56 NATO specification is roughly 10% higher than

its .223 Remington counterpart. For this reason, I use brass marked 5.56 for the more potent

powder charges because the case walls are thicker. Of course, the weapon has to be

manufactured with a 5.56 chamber.

The same can be said of the .308 Winchester specifications as compared to the 7.62 NATO. The

.308 maximum pressure is slightly higher.

With the AR15 family of rifles, I start working my way up the velocity ladder until I pop a primer

or two. In addition, there are a variety of other indicators to show pressure is getting too high. I

would advise the reader to use hard case primers on any autoloader weapon.

When you are pushing the limits and reloading, extra caution is required on overall length of the

end product. Although it varies slightly among rifles, I find that keeping the bullet between .002

and .004 off of the lands provides the best results. If I mess up and put the bullet on the lands,

the pressure can increase drastically and damage the weapon, or me. At minimum, I could end

up with a primer jamming up the bolt or trigger.

I always purchase barrels that use a 1x8 twist in a 5.56 rifle. This is because I want a heavy (by

5.56 standards) round. I would use the newer 75, 77, or 80 grain bullets, but they don’t feed

well into my weapons. Around 2003 the military started issuing MK 262 Mod 1 ammunition to

some Special Forces units, and I believe the Marines got a few batches as well. This is a 77 grain

bullet with a special cannelure and a slight crimp. There was special enhancement performed on

the primers as well. I used this round in several off-the-rack M4s back in the day and found it to

have very desirable terminal and external ballistics. Unfortunately, I can’t recreate the

manufacturing process in my garage, and the supply of these rounds is spotty, at best, for

civilians.


It is also wise to vary your ammo from time to time. If you are military or large department law

enforcement, you have no choice but to use one of the approved standard rounds. The new

M855A1 looks interesting, but as of yet, I haven’t spent any time analyzing this pill. If you are

OGA or PMC (OGA = Other Government Agency, PMC = Private Military Contractor), you may

have more leeway with some employers, but I wouldn’t count on it.

As stated above, civilians and some small department law enforcement have an advantage in

that they can customize their ammo to fit their specific weapons.

Another advantage to civilians is the fact that we don’t have to adhere to any international

conventions regarding our bullets. Military units have certain restrictions according to the

international convention (technically, it wasn’t the Geneva Convention, but the Hague

Convention of 1907). Basically, armies aren’t allowed to use bullets designed to cause

“unnecessary suffering.”

Well, I personally didn’t sign up for any convention, but I have to agree. Just like harvesting a

game animal, I don’t want to make anyone suffer, so I use tips that will fragment as much as

possible. If the previous statement doesn’t make any sense to you, join the crowd. The JAG’s

interpretation of the convention has never made any sense to a lot of people. The United States

technically treats enemy combatants worse than hunters treat deer or moose.

The point of which type of bullet tip works best is also debated among shooters. You will see this

manifested in several different ways, such as ballistic gel tests. This powder/water mix is

supposed to simulate flesh and muscle. This is all well and good, but I have never seen a two-

legged threat that was all flesh and muscle. First of all, most of the guys shooting at you in a

gunfight are going to be carrying some level of kit. This means they will have straps, bandoliers,

load vests, slings, belts, magazines, Korans, Bibles, weapons, and other non-flesh items on their

chest or about their person. They may even be wearing clothing or have a civilian or two in front

of them. At minimum, they have an internal, interconnected bone structure.

Some guys trust the military to determine the most effective bullets and velocities. I don’t. To

begin with, the M855 (and newer variant) is described as a general purpose round. Secondly, it

doesn’t make any sense for the military to spend funds on match grade ammunition. As stated

above, the NATO standard accuracy specification for M855 was 2 MOA. Most novice reloaders

can exceed that level of consistency. Finally, as mentioned earlier, there is that nagging

convention and JAG ruling on what constitutes legal ammunition for the military.


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Bonus Section

The Nutritional Advantage

By Mike Adams

Forward by Joe Nobody

I first noticed the impact of diet when I started training to shoot F-Class (1,000 yard)

competition. My inconsistency was frustrating as one day I was “deadeye Joe” and the next day

a big red barn would’ve had little concern for my skillset. I was a seasoned Shootist and could

not account for the unpredictability of my performance.

More by accident than anything else, I figured out my coffee intake was the issue. After

oversleeping one blustery winter morning, I sacrificed my pre-dawn Starbucks run in order to

make the competition on time. My previously lackluster performance was pristine that day.

Before, my consumption of caffeine seemed to throw off my groupings, but that day I was

suddenly a star.

Ultimately, my conclusion was more by process of elimination than a strict, empirical scientific

study. But after I experimented a few weeks, the results were difficult to ignore. Now, I’m a guy

who loves his coffee, and cutting back a few days before an event was painful. However,

shooting at less than my peak capabilities was worse, and I found the sacrifice was worth it. My

epiphany got me to thinking.

When I was a seemingly invincible young man, I didn’t pay a whole lot of attention to nutrition

or diet. I was fit as a fiddle and could hump a serious kit all day and fight all night without any

problem. Youth can overcome a lot of indiscretions as far as the body is concerned. As middle

age passed, small problems began to creep up. My knees were the first sign of age. I used to

joke about having the same symptoms of aging as professional football players. At 40, I could

still execute 2-count pushups until you got tired of counting, but a long day in the field with a

heavy ruck resulted in a need for ice packs on both knees. My deteriorating eyesight was the


second symptom my body was going through change. Suddenly, my arms were not long enough

for me to read. The white numbers on the scope turret became a blur.

My reaction times were the next victim. My times on courses I had run for years started

degrading a few tenths here and there. What really opened my eyes though, was my gut. It

seemed no amount of running (limited by terrible knees), weightlifting, or diet would keep my

belly flat. I was doing crunches by the hundreds to no avail. The famous golfer Lee Trevino, upon

the announcement he was joining the senior golfing tour for competitors over 50, is quoted as

saying, “I'm tired of playing against the flat bellies.” I knew just how he felt.

Unfortunately, there is no senior tour for operators.

In those days, nutritional prevention and healing wasn’t nearly as mainstream as it is now.

How far you delve into this world is up to you. I know some of the world’s most elite operators

who take their diet and nutrition as seriously as their weapon selection and kit. I know others

who can be seen at a fast food drive-thru on a daily basis. I know, ‘cause I used to be one of

them. But these days, even I am eating more salads and taking supplements to enhance my

health, and ultimately my fighting capabilities.

Mike Adams, commonly known as “The Health Ranger,” is a rare breed. Regardless of who you

talk to, his name is always mentioned in the top two or three as far as expertise in the world of

alternative health care and nutrition. He is also a shooter and takes his skill with weapons as

seriously as what is being shoved in his pie hole or typed on his keyboard.

I first met Mike when I was asked to be his security (bodyguard) for a public event. Now in the

field of private security work, you meet all types and always prepare for the worst

characteristics in your clients. Mr. Adams was a logical, reasonable guy, and as I spent time with

him, I realized he was not only passionate about helping people, but practiced what he

preached. My respect for the man and his message grew as the day progressed, and I watched

him interact with hundreds of people.

Mike is the editor of a web page, www.naturalnews.com, and it is a wealth of information. I

asked him if he would be so kind as to write a chapter on nutrition and shooting. I, personally,

have found what I consume is as much of a factor as physical conditioning, training, equipment

and mental discipline. Being a Shootist involves strength, endurance, sensory input and brain

power. If you are serious about climbing the ladder of lethality, then you need to investigate this

realm.

Joe

http://www.naturalnews.com/


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The Nutritional Advantage

In this bonus section to Joe’s book, I'm going to reveal how to vastly improve your shooting

game (and survival abilities) by applying today's most advanced nutritional principles. As you'll

soon see, what you're about to learn can help you:

Improve your natural night vision (without using electronics)

Improve your aim and muscle stability

Speed your natural ability to heal wounds (by up to 400%)

Improve your ability to operate under extreme stress

Vastly improve your stamina and cardiovascular performance, even if you don't lose a

single pound of body fat

This information is not yet embraced in what we call "conventional" medicine. It is cutting-edge

nutritional science, and as the editor of NaturalNews. com, I have written over 2,000 articles

over the last 9 years about nutrition, cutting-edge supplements, the toxicity of processed food

chemicals, natural cures and other similar topics.

Unlike most of my colleagues in the world of health and nutrition, I'm also a strong advocate of

firearms ownership and competency. I'm trained in hand to hand combat, edged weapons

combat, and more recently fighting with pistols and rifles. The most fascinating thing I've

learned in all these years of training is that most of the other operators I see in instructional

classes are suffering from what I call a "toxic diet" that quite obviously affects their nervous

system function. I see these people shooting at paper targets just 3 meters away and they can't

hit a fist-sized target. I see operators huffing and puffing from running just 20 meters while

practicing moving and shooting exercises. I see people who are completely unable to think

outside the box and who quite frankly appear to have a very low chance of surviving an actual

violent encounter.

The one thing all these people have in common is neurological poisoning through toxic foods,

medicines and consumer products. They lack the nutritional support that could protect their

neurology and drastically increase their odds of survival.

I don't want you to be one of these people.


Why your firearm skills start with what you eat

Gunfighting is both a mental and physical activity, and both your brain and your muscles run on

the same source of fuel: your blood.

Your blood, in turn, is 100% made of what you eat and drink. Think about that for a moment.

This means for typical Americans, they're feeding their brains and bodies a toxic cocktail of

processed junk food, chemically-adulterated processed food, dead pasteurized food and even

food laced with synthetic chemical coloring and nerve-damaging preservatives like sodium

benzoate. The result of all this? Extremely poor performance both in muscle control, reaction

time, visual awareness and of course decision-making under stress. The term "shit for brains"

comes to mind. . .

"People who eat like crap perform like crap," I say. It's true in firearms training, sports, MMA,

and even in academics. When your brain is poisoned, it simply doesn't work as well as it should.

Throughout this book, Joe addresses OODA loops. Polluted grey matter will not improve

anyone’s OODA cycles. I aim to help you reverse that, so let's start with all the ways you might

be poisoning your own brain right now.

Neurotoxic substances in your food, medicine and personal care products

If I'm ever in a gunfight, I pray to God my opponent drinks lots of diet soda (laced with

aspartame), takes lots of annual flu shots (laced with mercury and chemical adjuvants), and eats

a lot of processed junk food (laced with petrochemical-derived food colors and preservatives).

Why? Because my odds of winning against an opponent who routinely poisons their own

nervous system are extremely high.

In fact, the standard American diet, combined with fluoride, vaccines, television and

medications, have turned many Americans into literal walking zombies. I know the gun

community often talks about the "zombie apocalypse" coming as a sort of joke used to sell

tactical ammo, but in truth the zombie apocalypse has already begun. There are literally people

sleepwalking through their lives every day, chemically poisoned and unaware, with their brains

being poisoned by what they eat, drink and use in the shower.


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As proof of all this, a recent event in Miami brought the zombie theory to life when police

discovered a half-crazed naked man eating the face off another naked man, under a highway

overpass in Miami. As CBS Miami reported:

"Miami police shot and killed a man on the MacArthur Causeway Saturday afternoon, and police

sources told CBS4 they had no choice: the naked man they shot was trying to chew the face off

another naked man, and refused to obey police orders to stop his grisly meal. . . . Officers found

one man gnawing on the face of another, in what one police source called the most gruesome

thing he’d ever seen."

"With the attacker dead, lying nude on the pavement, officers and paramedics were able to get

to his victim and rush him to Jackson Memorial Hospital. Police sources say the man had

virtually no face and was unrecognizable. Once the bizarre confrontation came to an end, police

were left with the task of figuring out what had happened…."

I can tell you what happened: The guy lost his brain function and reverted to his animalistic

"reptilian" brainstem function. What got him to that point could be a combination of any

number of neurotoxic substances combined with recreational drug abuse. His brain was being

hammered with who knows what cocktail of poisons, probably ranging from aspartame and

vaccine adjuvants to a bad batch of street cocaine or bath salts. The most remarkable thing

about this encounter is that even when police started shooting the creature, it didn't stop

feeding right away. As the Miami Herald reported:

"According to police sources, a road ranger saw a naked man chewing on another man's face

and shouted on his loud speaker for him to back away. When he continued the assault, the

officer shot him, police sources said. The attacker failed to stop after being shot, forcing the

officer to continue firing. Witnesses said they heard at least a half dozen shots."

Things that damage your brain

The primary sources of neurologically damaging substances are:

1) Processed food

2) Medications

3) Personal care products

I'll run these down for you so you can find ways to avoid all these. Trust me when I say these

chemicals cause cancer, Alzheimer's disease, infertility, mental confusion and a whole lot more.


Modern humans are being heavily contaminated with tens of thousands of synthetic chemicals

that have quite literally never been tested for safety. They're in your shaving cream, they're in

your air fresheners and they're in your food. If you eat this stuff, you are poisoning your brain

and your gunfighting performance will suffer.

Processed food

The most widely used neurotoxic substance in processed food is aspartame. It's found in diet

soda, "diabetic" sweets and nearly all chewing gum. It's even found in over-the-counter

medicines such as cough syrup.

Aspartame breaks down into a number of chemical compounds; one of those is formaldehyde.

This is the chemical used to preserve brains in jars at the local lab, get it? If this stuff is coursing

through your brain, you are quite literally "pickling your own brain" in a highly toxic substance.

Avoid all sources of aspartame, period. Don't touch the stuff. That means you need to start

reading labels of foods and over-the-counter medicines to make sure you don't ingest any. Diet

soda is one of the most common sources of this poison. Most shooters I know would take the

time to read the specifications on a box of ammo or a new scope.

Take the time to read and understand what is in your food and drink.

The next source of toxic brain-damaging chemicals is MSG, also known as "monosodium

glutamate. "MSG is an "excitotoxin." It fries your brain cells and causes them to die. It creates

food addictions and enhances taste, which is why food companies lace their dead, processed

foods with it. This stuff might as well be named “Blood Napalm.”

If you want to learn more about this, watch my video interviews with Dr. Russell Blaylock. You

can search for those videos at http://TV. naturalnews. com or just go to YouTube and search for

"Russell Blaylock Health Ranger" and you'll be able to find them.

The Yeast Extract Deception

Here's the tricky part in all this: Food companies, being inherently dishonest and corrupt, know

that consumers won't buy foods if "MSG" is listed on the label. So they found a way to put MSG

into the foods without calling it MSG.


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How'd they do that? By calling it "yeast extract." This ingredient, which is found throughout

thousands of soups, salad dressings, dips, sauces, frozen foods and just about everything else, is

made by fermenting a giant festering vat of stinky yeast, which causes amino acids to break

down into various molecules, some of which are monosodium glutamate. Yeast extract, which is

also found in snack chips and even "natural" foods, is as much as 14% MSG. Avoid this

ingredient like a batch of corroded ammo – eventually it’s going to explode in your face.

It's also found, by the way, in "veggie burgers" which are the most toxic thing I've yet seen in the

grocery store. A typical veggie burger, eaten by brain-dead consumers who blindly believe

they're healthier by avoiding meat, is made of hexane-extracted genetically modified soy

protein, flavor enhanced with yeast extract, and then preserved with nerve-killing food

preservatives. You might as well just undergo a surgical lobotomy or backtalk a drill instructor.

Medications

Most medications are brain killers. They're also killers of your liver and kidneys, but that's

another story. Chemotherapy is so toxic that it produces a side effect widely known as "chemo

brain," meaning the patient's brain doesn't work very well anymore. (Just ask any oncologist. )

Vaccines and flu shots are still formulated with mercury, one of the most neurotoxic substances

yet discovered on our planet. Your local doctor or nurse may flat out lie to you and tell you that

"all mercury has been removed from vaccines in the USA," but we've already done the research

on that and established that such claims are flatly false. (Some doctors aren't lying to you about

this, they're just ignorant and don't actually know the facts. )

In truth, there are still low levels of mercury in vaccines. The medical establishment calls this

"zero" in the same way that the FDA has allowed food companies to claim that if their trans fats

are equal to or less than 0.5 grams per serving, they can claim "ZERO trans fats."

So, you see, in the food and medical industries, zero does not mean zero. This should come as

no surprise to those who observe Washington D. C. at work, where budget deficit numbers are

routinely fudged without hesitation. When Americans are being screwed over, it seems,

somebody is always manipulating the numbers. Ever notice that? "Zero" may mean "zero" when

you're zeroing your rifle, but to the food and medicine industries, zero means whatever they

want it to mean.


Back to vaccines: I can sit here and explain to you why flu shots are medically useless --

especially if you take vitamin D which protects you from the flu anyway -- but I've already done

all that on NaturalNews. com. Just search the website for "flu shots" and you'll see at least a

hundred articles on the subject, including citations of scientific studies showing that for every

100 people vaccinated against the flu, 99 of them experience no benefit whatsoever. Flu shots,

it turns out, are a total medical scam. There is absolutely zero science behind flu shots. Pure

quackery. I've actually offered a $10,000 reward to any person who could prove to me that flu

shots have been scientifically proven to work, and nobody has yet taken me up on that offer.

Why Mercury Eats Your Brain

People who get vaccinated are injecting their bodies with small amounts of mercury. Once

injected, this goes right into your bloodstream and starts "eating" your brain away.

Mercury is so incredibly neurotoxic that prolonged exposure will quite literally make you go

insane. The old saying "mad as a hatter" comes from the fact that old-time hat makers used

mercury to help form the felt bands during manufacturing. Before long, they all went nuts, and

the saying became a factual observation of the toxic effects of mercury.

Today, the people going nuts from mercury exposure are dentists. When they drill on mercury

fillings and inhale the vapors, they ingest mercury right into their lungs which then goes right

into their bloodstream. Think about your own dentist: Does he still use mercury "silver" fillings?

Is he a little nuts? That's not a coincidence.

My point is that if you want your brain and nervous system intact, stop submitting to the brain-

dead enslavement of the vaccine industry. You don't need vaccines to be healthy.

Nearly all vaccines are a complete medical scam based on pure quackery and fabricated junk

science. The healthiest people I know are all completely non-vaccinated. All the home-schooled

kids raised on farms with NO vaccines have, factually speaking, the lowest rates of autism, the

lowest rates of allergies, and the highest academic scores in the nation. This is all factually

supported by real science and is easily verified yourself by searching the web for things like

"farm-raised children have lower rates of allergies and autism."


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How to protect yourself from vaccines

For those of you in the military who get injected by experimental vaccines by the Dept. of

Defense, there are things you can do to protect yourself in advance. For as many days as you can

manage ahead of your vaccination date, slam very high levels of vitamin C every day. Take

10,000 IUs of vitamin D. Slam some astaxanthin (mentioned below). Load up with antioxidants

and neuroprotective substances and there's probably a 99% chance you will not suffer nerve

damage from the vaccines. The guys who get brain damaged are typically the ones who live on

junk foods, who have no nutritional foundation for health, and whose nervous systems are

therefore highly susceptible to poisoning with chemical adjuvants and mercury.

If you can avoid these vaccines, of course, that's the best option. But if you're in a situation

where you are forced to take them, you can still protect yourself in advance and you'll most

likely not suffer brain damage.

Private Military Contractors are also often required to have their “shots” before traveling to a

job. Again, avoid as many of these injections as possible and if you have no choice, take the

steps outlined above.

Psychiatric drugs

It is an unfortunate aspect of our modern day medical care that doctors routinely prescribe

psych drugs. These new chemical concoctions seem to be used as a panacea cure-all for a

variety of behavioral issues, psychological disorders and just plain old moodiness. We're talking

huge, historically-unprecedented doses of psychotropic drugs, pain killers, sleep drugs,

prescription narcotics and more. This assault on our brains transcends practically every aspect of

society ranging from our children to our military. Police officers, federal agents, homeland

security and even the military are consuming these mind altering substances at alarming rates.

Reference my infographic on this subject at:

http://www. naturalnews. com/Infographic-Epidemic-Psychiatric-Drugging-Soldiers. html

I can hardly describe the full extent of the mass brain poisoning being caused by these drugs.

When reports of U. S. soldiers going ape shit crazy I can’t help but wonder if it’s not psychiatric

drugs at work. These drugs have well known (and well documented) side effects that include

outbursts of violence and suicide. Our present-day war in Afghanistan is the first war in the

history of the world where more soldiers die from suicide than from combat. Ponder that for a

minute and you'll begin to understand the true toxicity of psychiatric drugs.


SSRIs (antidepressants) can turn you into a mass murderer. Remember the Columbine High

School shootings? Those kids were on SSRI drugs. Most mass shootings in the USA involve

people who are taking psych drugs. Even the comedian Phil Hartman was killed by his wife who

was taking the psych drug Zoloft. (http://en. wikipedia. org/wiki/Phil_Hartman)

If you take psychiatric drugs, stay the hell away from me on the range. I don't want some psycho

gunfighter to go crazy and think he's suddenly playing out some video game where everybody

around him needs to be shot in order to reach the high score. I personally will not knowingly be

around anyone who takes psychiatric drugs. I find the entire concept to be insane, stupid and

dangerous.

On top of that, the psych drugs don't even work! Antidepressants, the studies show, work no

better than placebo. In other words, you could take sugar pills and have the same result as

taking SSRIs.

Psych drugs cause diabetes

At the same time these drugs are not working, they are destabilizing your blood sugar and

metabolism. It is a well proven medical fact that antidepressant drugs cause type-2 diabetes.

This, in turn, leads to heart disease and cancer. If you really want to destroy your health, start

taking SSRI drugs and see what happens. Just please stay away from weapons that allow you to

project your mental issues at great distances.

All of these psych drugs screw with your mental focus and decision-making, as well as your

overall psychological stability. While this might prove useful every once in a while on a foreign

battlefield -- "Hey, let's send crazy Dave on a mad charge into that enemy machine gun nest!" --

This is not the kind of neurological profile you want banging around your own head when you're

trying to survive in a gunfight.

If you want to shoot straight and think straight, get off the mind-altering meds, folks. You'll be

healthier, happier and a better fighter. Keep reading because I recommend brain-boosting

supplements below that will vastly improve your moods, brain function and neurological

stability.

Statin drugs

Statin drugs are the "big lie" of the corrupt pharmaceutical industry. They say statin drugs lower

cholesterol and prevent heart attacks, but what they don't tell you is how they interfere with


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the normal production of cholesterol, and cholesterol is absolutely critical for two things you

don't want to screw with:

Your sex hormones.

Your brain cells.

The fat in your brain cells, for example, is made in large part with cholesterol. Yes, cholesterol is

GOOD for you. You would die in seconds without cholesterol in your body, as it makes up 20

percent of the "myelin" component of all your body's fat cells. But don't expect your doctor to

know that. Most conventional doctors have been exhaustively brainwashed by Big Pharma to

push statin drugs and earn billions of dollars in profits for the rope-a-dope pharmaceutical

industry. If you don't believe me, go visit your doctor's office sometime and notice how every

pen, paper pad, calendar, coffee cup and clipboard is emblazoned with the name of a

prescription drug. Many physicians have completely sold out to Big Pharma and are little more

than legalized drug pushers.

Read more about the truth on cholesterol at:

http://www. westonaprice. org/know-your-fats/cholesterol-friend-or-foe

Statin drugs nearly kill a Tucson police captain

I know a captain in the Tucson Police Department where I volunteered for two years as part of

the Tucson Police Foundation. This captain knew I was into health, and he told me one day that

he was on statin drugs. "Get off those drugs, man," I said. "Talk to your doctor and find a way to

wean yourself off those. They're dangerous."

Six weeks later, he called me on my mobile, screaming. "Mike, those statin drugs almost KILLED

me!" When I asked him what happened, he said that taking the drugs caused him to experience

sudden muscle weakness and he collapsed on the floor. They took him to the emergency room,

got him off the statins, and over three days he recovered his strength. He now knows that one

of the most common side effects of statin drugs is rhabdomyolysis.

Wikipedia describes rhabdomyolysis as "a condition in which damaged skeletal muscle tissue

breaks down rapidly. Breakdown products of damaged muscle cells are released into the

bloodstream; some of these, such as the protein myoglobin, are harmful to the kidneys and may

lead to kidney failure. The severity of the symptoms, which may include muscle pains, vomiting


and confusion, depends on the extent of muscle damage and whether kidney failure develops.

The muscle damage may be caused by physical factors (e. g. crush injury, strenuous exercise),

medications, drug abuse, and infections.”

FDA admits statin drugs are dangerous

Google "statin drugs rhabdomyolysis" if you want to see proof that statin drugs cause this

condition. Sometimes people die from it. The drug industry (and its obedient regulators like the

criminally-run FDA) routinely downplays the risks of statin drugs, but even then the agency had

to admit they were dangerous. On June 8th, 2011, the FDA issued a warning. As published on

DrugInjuryWatch. com:

"On June 8, 2011 the FDA announced new dosing restrictions for Zocor and other prescription

drug pills containing 80 milligrams (mg) of simvastatin due to their determination these

cholesterol drugs are associated, or linked, with an increased risk of developing myopathy and

rhabdomyolysis, a serious muscle injury usually requiring hospitalization, and that could lead to

kidney failure and death.”

So if you really want to have a shitty day at the range, and you enjoy being a twitching, feeble-

bodied victim of the chemical pharmaceutical industry, go to your ignorant doctor and tell him

you want some statin drugs. He will be happy to write you a prescription (they get free "CME"

vacations to Hawaii and other exotic locations based on the number of drug prescriptions they

write) and turn you into a drooling spastic idiot. This will not improve your aim, in case you were

curious about that. It will, however, make you a danger to everyone depending on you in a

serious fight.

Remember: In a gunfight, medications coursing through your veins will likely get you killed.

Why? Because guys like me are out there who have most of the same gun skills you have, but

our blood is pumping nutrition into our brains, not poisonous patented chemicals sold at

monopoly prices by a criminally-run pharmaceutical cartel.

Again, if I could choose my opponent in a gunfight, I would want them to be a diet soda drinking,

junk food eating, statin drug medicated, nutritionally deficient heap of convulsing flesh. Could

he still get lucky and manage to send some lead my way? Sure.

Luck always plays a role in every encounter. But the odds are not stacked in his favor, especially

if the gunfight goes mobile and it becomes an issue of who can maneuver and fire without

running out of gas or overheating from exhaustion. In such situations, the odds are stacked in


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MY favor. And they can be stacked in YOUR favor, too, if you stop listening to the idiotic medical

advice of the for-profit pharmaceutical industry and start clearing your head.

I think it's hilarious that operators routinely practice clearing FTFs (Failure to Feed), but never

get around to clearing the chemicals out of their own skulls.

Personal care products

There's aluminum in your deodorant, did you know? And aluminum is a brain poison.

That anti-bacterial soap you're using contains a chemical related to Agent Orange. The artificial

fragrance in your laundry detergent is a neurotoxic substance. The average American consumer

lives in a toxic cesspool of dangerous synthetic chemicals that cause everything from cancer and

infertility to schizophrenia and even dementia.

Clean up your house. Want a clean, non-toxic soap? It's called Dr. Bronner's. Go get some. It also

cleans range gear, load vests, body armor and compression shirts.

Want a clean, non-toxic laundry detergent? Buy Seventh Generation.

Dump your toxic shampoos, shaving creams, perfumes and cosmetics. Anything with a chemical

fragrance is toxic. Get it out of your bathroom and away from your skin. Your skin absorbs these

chemicals as soon as contact is made.

If you use hoohaws (baby wipes) in the field, make sure they are non-scented. This is a good

tactical practice regardless, because clearing a building while smelling like a baby might give the

bad guys a heads up.

Lawn Chemicals Kill Your Brain Big Time

You know those weed killer chemicals you spray on your lawn every spring? Yeah, they cause

Alzheimer's disease, dementia and piss-poor brain function, too. They screw up your aim. They

mess with your head. You know why you can't remember where you put your TV remote or car

keys? Because you've been inhaling too many brain-damaging pesticides, herbicides, fungicides

and toxic solvent chemicals.


If you enjoy a hazy, brain-foggy existence, buy your laundry detergent at Wal-Mart and your

weed killer at Home Depot. Do what everybody else does: Spray your lawn and your laundry

with deadly chemicals and then see what happens. In a few years, you may no longer be able to

remember the faces of your own children, but hey, something had to be done about those

dandelions in the yard, right?

I don't care if you disagree with me on this point. What you do with your own brain is your own

business. You can go smoke some crack and run for D. C. mayor for all I care. But if you actually

want to stay alert and alive, you'll need to part ways with exposure to all the outrageous

chemicals most Americans use in their daily lives. At my house, I have ZERO chemical pesticides,

ZERO toxic personal care products, ZERO toxic detergents and cleaners and ZERO toxic foods.

Sure, I have a few weeds in the yard, but at least when I'm 75, I'll still have the presence of mind

to remember how to locate my own “gun” (and hopefully remember what to do with it).

Other Sources of Toxicity

I know this is a lot to swallow, so I'll be brief. If you're cooking on non-stick cookware, you're

eating poison. If you're drinking fluoridated city water, you're drinking poison. If you use a toxic

solvent cleaner on your firearm, you're absorbing poison. (I use Frog Lube. It's non-toxic and it

works. )

You probably poison your brain a thousand times a day without knowing it. And I get it that a lot

of guys figure they're not going to survive their tour of duty in Afghanistan anyway, so why

bother with longevity and health and all that?

My point is that avoiding brain poisons can help save your ass in Afghanistan so you might have

a future in the first place. If you've already decided you're dead, then sure, eat the frozen pizza

from Wal-Mart! Take more medications! Shoot up with a hundred vaccines! But if you actually

plan to be an effective Shootist, an effective parent, and a contributor to society in some

meaningful way, you need to keep your brain intact and prevent your ass from getting shot off.

That means getting the chemicals out of your skull.

So keep reading, because next I'm revealing some powerful neuro-supportive substances that

can protect and enhance your brain function. They may even be able to help reverse all the

brain damage you already sustained from beating your head against the wall waiting for the

government to solve all the world's problems.


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Neuro-supportive Substances

One of the most hilarious things I see these days is a guy at the range with a $3,000 rifle, a

$2000 ACOG sight, a $1500 laser illuminator, shooting match .308 ammo at two bucks a round,

and then when he's ready for lunch he whips out a $4.99 Burger King junk food special that

effectively compromises his entire investment in high-end shooting gear.

Why do men, especially, spend fortunes on their gun gear but totally neglect to spend even a

fraction of that on their own biological hardware? Your rifle's firing controls are activated by

your finger, and your finger is controlled by your muscles, and your muscles are controlled by

your brain. If your brain isn't getting high-end inputs, it's not going to produce high-end

performance.

So my first message to the shooting community is to fix your neurology first, and then even your

old crappy AK-47 will probably shoot straight, too. (Guys tend to blame their gear and not their

thick skulls for shooting problems. If they miss their target, they say "it must be bad ammo, a

loose optic or the wind," But if they hit the target, then magically it's 100% to their credit. )

When it comes to nutrition, there has been a longstanding and completely foolish macho

bullshit attitude of "I don't want to look like a salad-eating fairy on the range.” Real men eat

cheeseburgers and barbeque, right? Real men don't drink smoothies, right?

Wrong.

Cheeseburgers and barbeque are great if they're not loaded with antibiotics, hormones and

synthetic chemicals. Eat some free range meat if you want to be a real man. (Or go shoot your

own hog, field dress it, and make some pork sandwiches out of that. You won't find healthier

meat than wild hog meat. )

When I was training with a nationally-recognized firearms school recently, the other guys there

started coming up to me and saying things like, "Wow, your reloads are lightning fast. How'd

you learn to do that?" Then I'd show them my mason jar full of blended avocado, chocolate and

superfoods.”Learn it? Heck, guys, it's my diet. It makes hand-eye coordination work better.”

For the next 20 minutes, these guys then proceeded to ask me what I ate, what I drank, what my

diet was like and how they could achieve the same results that I had achieved.


See, they get it: It's about PERFORMANCE. Are you willing to drink blended avocados, chia seeds

and chocolate if you boost your performance in a gunfight? What if I told you the right recipe

makes it taste like a chocolate ice cream shake? What if I told you the healthiest food in the

world is also the TASTIEST food in the world? What if I told you that you could enjoy amazing

food, prevent cancer, restore your sex drive, restore your memory, speed up your OODA

processing, and improve your chances of surviving a shooting encounter all at the same time by

taking a few supplements and drinking some smoothies?

Would you be interested in that? (Keep reading if you are. . . )

Why Macho Men are Growing Infertile

Let me share something totally shocking with you: Fertility rates among American men have

plummeted over the past 20 years as consumption of processed food has skyrocketed. Sperm

viability has dropped 90 percent from a hundred years ago. “Real men" may think they're eating

macho burgers or whatever, but in their pants where the real story unfolds, they're increasingly

shooting blanks.

Here's a disturbing fact: The average American man has only 1/10th the sperm viability of a

typical mouse. Google that if you don't believe me. It's a medical fact.

So let's talk about how to be a real man, with real nutrition, with sperm that actually functions

and a brain that works so well it might actually prevent your ass from getting shot off on the

battlefield.

Skeptics say, "But I know this guy who eats junk food all day long…."

Right before we get into neuro-supportive supplements, I know some of you out there are

saying, "Wait a minute, this is B. S. I know a sniper guy who kicks ass on the range, and shoots

two-inch groups at 800 meters, and he eats Taco Bell and Doritos all day long…."

That's all great, but he's probably the same guy who has anger management problems back at

base. He might perform superbly on a range, firing at paper targets, but how will he handle the

extreme stress of a real-world fight? And if he's shooting two-inch groups on a junk food diet, he

might very well be able to shoot one-inch groups on a healthy diet.


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By clearing his brain of toxins and taking the supportive supplements I mention below, that

same soldier will be more alert, more emotionally stable, better adapted to stress and have

increased endurance. Because as real snipers know, it's not just about who can hit a paper

target at 800 meters; it's about who has the endurance and mental discipline to sit motionless

for nine hours in 110-degree heat, next to a ravenous hill of fire ants, observing the target and

waiting for that perfect shot -- and then evading capture thereafter, which usually requires

moving your feet and pumping blood to your leg muscles, both of which are strongly impaired

by "sludge blood" caused by poor diet.

Then there are the people who come up to me and say, "Yeah, but I know this guy who drinks

soda all day long and he's fine." Sure he is, right up until the day he's trying to pass a kidney

stone out of his pants muzzle, and he's pissing blood and screaming for his mama because it

feels like the inside of his own man-barrel is being scraped out with a razor blade. Soda

consumption causes kidney stones, didn't ya know?

That's the fun of drinking a couple decades of soda. And did I mention that in addition to causing

kidney stones, sodas also deplete your bone mineral density and make you extremely

susceptible to bone fractures and breaks? Check around all your friends who have suffered

broken bones in training or active duty -- how many of them drink a lot of soda? You'll be

shocked to discover the correlation.

Next time you buy a soda, check the ingredients: You'll find something called "phosphoric acid.”

Then go down to your local Home Depot and ask for some "phosphoric acid" there, and you'll

find it is readily available in the stone mason section, where this acid is used to clean rocks and

etch patterns into stone. It's also used to clean off a decade of caked-on rust from tractor parts

and industrial bolts. In addition, it has a big red poison warning on the can. Funny, that same

poison warning is never found on soda cans, is it?

Neuro-supportive Supplements

There are a few key supplements that can sharply improve your neurology. This means both

brain function and muscle function, not to mention cardiovascular performance as well.

They are:

1) Astaxanthin

2) Fish oils


3) Vitamin D

What's interesting about these three is that they all go together. Both astaxanthin and vitamin D

are "fat soluble" meaning that they are carried around your body by hitching a ride on fat cells.

And where does fat go in your body? Everywhere that matters: brain cells, liver cells, muscle

cells and even eyeball cells.

Your brain cells are almost entirely made of FAT and water by the way. The lining of every

muscle fiber in your twitchy trigger finger is also made of fat. So finding a way to protect that fat

is a key strategy to boosting performance.

Astaxanthin

Salmon boost performance with astaxanthin ("ass-ta-zan-thin"). That's the substance that turns

their flesh red. It's also what allows them to perform at an elite level of physical fitness. Try

swimming a hundred miles upstream and leaping up waterfalls sometime if you want

confirmation of that last statement.

Astaxanthin is called the "king of the carotenoids." It's a neuroprotective, stress-adaptive

superfood substance that I have literally seen double the cardiovascular endurance of some

individuals in training. Guys who were out of breath in 15 minutes of martial arts, for example,

could often go 30 minutes just by taking this one supplement for 30 days or so.

Astaxanthin also protects your eyes from UV damage. At the same time, it protects your skin

from UV damage too. One of the fascinating side effects of taking astaxanthin is that your

tendency to get sunburned will be noticeably reduced. (This requires at least 30 days of

astaxanthin at 4mg per day. ) I take 4mg - 12mg of astaxanthin daily. It works better if you take

it together with a source of healthy fat, such as a fish oil supplement, or just by eating an

avocado or some coconut oil.

You can get astaxanthin right now in 4mg and 12mg doses. The brand I recommend is "Bioastin"

because I've toured their farm facilities on the Big Island in Hawaii and I've seen their quality

control. If you want to find sources for astaxanthin, just Google around and shop for the best

price. To read more about this extraordinary supplement, here's my website page on it: www.

NaturalNews. com/astaxanthin. html


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Fish oils

Fish oils are absolutely crucial to take if you want high-functioning neurology. Scientific data has

already proven that fish oils reduce your risk of cancer, heart disease, diabetes and Alzheimer's

disease, but there's not much conventional talk on the performance enhancing properties of this

extraordinary substance.

Allow me to explain it this way: Most of the junk-food-eating masses suffer from what I call

"sludge blood." Their blood is so thick and sludgy from all the hydrogenated fats, processed oils

and synthetic chemicals they eat that their heart has trouble even pumping their blood to all

their cells. When hearts have to work harder to pump sludgy blood, it's always diagnosed as

"high blood pressure." (Sound familiar, anyone?) And then some drug-pushing doctor prescribes

a patented, monopoly-priced chemical as a "medication" to artificially lower your blood

pressure by poisoning your heart.

That's total medical quackery. The problem is not high blood pressure. The problem is your

sludge-like blood that doesn't flow well. And if it doesn't flow well, that means blood isn't

getting to your brain as easily. It's not getting to your extremities or your lungs. It means your

recovery time from bursts of physical activity is going to be longer than they should. Once again,

I hope to God that if I'm ever in a gunfight, my opponent eats a lot of partially-hydrogenated oils

and French fries. When I ventilate that sucker, the only advantage he will have is that his blood

will clot more quickly because it was half sludge to begin with. (That coffee "creamer" crap that

you guys put into your morning coffee, by the way, is nothing but artificially hydrogenated,

genetically modified soybean oil and mercury-extracted high fructose corn syrup, which is

another toxic substance. If you drink this stuff daily, you might as well just shoot yourself in the

head and get it over with. )

The real solution to nearly all cases of so-called "high blood pressure" (a completely fictitious

disease dreamed up solely to sell you more drugs) is to change your diet. Start eating more fish

and fish oils. Boost your intake of omega-3s with chia seeds, flax seeds and healthy oils. Stop

eating hydrogenated oils and fried foods. Magically, in nearly 99 percent of the cases "high

blood pressure" disappears as the blood starts to flow more easily. Suddenly your brain is

getting fed its blood supply more easily. Your body recovers from exercise more quickly.

Everything just works better, and you get the benefit of helping prevent cancer, diabetes and

heart disease as a beneficial side effect.


Avoid cheap fish oils that you buy at big box clubs and retail stores, by the way. Those are full of

chemicals and will only make you worse. Three sources of fish oils I currently recommend are:

Nordic Naturals (www. NordicNaturals. com)

Carlson Labs (www. CarlsonLabs. com)

Living Fuel (www. LivingFuel. com)

These companies provide high quality fish oils without all the chemicals you get in cheaper fish

oils. Seriously. I'm looking at the ingredients right now on a bottle of "Kirkland Signature Omega-

3 Fish Oil" that I bought from Costco, and the ingredients include mineral oil (derived from

petroleum), polysorbate 80, methylparabens, and polyparabens. If for some reason you want all

those chemicals pumping through your veins in the middle of a gunfight, go ahead and buy

cheap vitamins at Costco.

Vitamin D3

Vitamin D3 is the third supplement I strongly recommend you take if you want to stay alive. This

nutrient, which is really more of a natural hormone, is truly miraculous in its scope and benefits.

Virtually every organ in your body has receptor sites for vitamin D, including your brain cells.

Nearly all Americans are vitamin D deficient, and deficiency leads directly to all sorts of

degenerative diseases, including cancer, diabetes and more. Importantly for shooters and

soldiers, a lack of vitamin D makes your bones crack easily. While the medical establishment

tells you that calcium makes your bones strong, the deeper truth is that calcium can't even be

absorbed by your body unless you have high levels of vitamin D circulating in your blood. That's

why sunshine (which generates vitamin D in your skin) leads to stronger bones. It's also why

your grandma who sits in a wheelchair at home and never goes outside can break her hip

merely by standing up and putting weight on it. People mistakenly think that the elderly fall

down and break their hips when, in reality, what usually happens is that their hips break from

their own body weight and then they fall down.

Vitamin D supplementation solves this very quickly. The problem is that all the government

recommendations for vitamin D are intentionally set way too low as a way to boost revenues for

the pharmaceutical industry. Government nutritional guidelines, in other words, are designed to

keep you diseased and victimized. And if you're gullible enough to actually think the U. S.


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government gives a shit about your health, go visit a VA hospital sometime to have your opinion

sharply corrected.

The government says you should take maybe 400 IU of vitamin D a day when, in reality, you

probably need ten times that amount or even more. I take one pill a day that delivers 10,000 IUs

of vitamin D. I know many doctors who routinely prescribe 50,000 IUs a day for weeks at a time

to patients who are dangerously low in vitamin D. The scientific literature I have reviewed shows

that you'd have to take 100,000 IUs a day to start to see toxicity. Vitamin D is remarkably safe,

and although you can theoretically overdose on it, nearly everyone actually takes far too little.

One brand I recommend is Solgar, but there are lots of brands that work. Look for vitamin D3,

which is the correct molecular configuration that you want. I also recommend getting your

vitamin D levels tested by your doctor. If they are anything less than 50, you're deficient. Most

people's vitamin D levels range in the low 20's.

The Power of Combination

Now here's the good news in all this: If you will take astaxanthin, fish oils and vitamin D for just

30 days -- and I mean really take them and don't B. S. yourself into making excuses -- you will

notice a radical difference in your own health, your performance, exercise recovery speed,

wound healing speed, the steadiness of your aim and a whole lot more. You will likely even

notice improved night vision. These supplements aren't going to turn you into a superhuman, of

course, but they will help restore your true potential which is amazing all by itself.

Most guys are walking around today as half humans. They only tap into half of what they're

capable of. Proper nutrition is the key to unlocking the other half and turning on the astounding

potential of your mind, your neurology, your hand-eye coordination, stress responses and much

more. These supplements will make you a better fighter and they'll give you the side effects of

helping prevent the risk of degenerative disease at the same time.

For the record, I do not have any financial interest in any of these supplements I mention here.

I'm not even in the supplement business. I'm simply an award-winning investigative researcher

who wants to help good people do better. And by "good people" I mean people who defend the

Constitution and the Bill of Rights. Let the traitors eat junk food.


True patriots should be all running on peak nutrition, because we need that edge to defend

ourselves against enemies of freedom.

Neuro-supportive Foods & Superfoods

We've covered supplements that can boost your brain power, but what about foods?

Raw fruit and vegetable juices (made using a countertop juicer) are loaded with

minerals, enzymes, plant-vitamins and medicinal substances. Drink one glass of juice

daily if you can find the time to make it. (Pasteurized store-bought juice doesn't count

because it's dead. )

Eat sprouted grain breads (like Ezekiel) instead of processed dead white breads.

If you eat meat, buy only organic, free range or locally-produced meat. Avoid factory-

made meat which is laced with chemicals and raised on GMOs.

Cacao strongly boosts brain function, helps ease depression and enriches your cells with

key minerals.

Camu-camu is a full spectrum vitamin C superfood that can even help protect you from

radiation damage.

Spirulina and chlorella are "microalgae" superfoods. These are the super dense sources

of nutrition that power many elite athletes. Even the guys who fight MMA, like the UFC,

are getting turned on to superfoods.

If you're looking for superfood powders that you can mix with water, or milk, or whatever, and

really boost your nutrition, here's what I strongly recommend. As the editor of NaturalNews.

com, I've given editor's choice awards to all these companies:

1) Boku Superfood. www. BokuSuperfood. com - extremely nutrient rich. Goes great with

chocolate and blended avocados.

2) Living Fuel. www. LivingFuel. com - I recommend their super berry flavor. Goes great

with blended organic fruits, like making a fruit slushy.

3) X-Balance. www. SGNnutrition. com - Incredibly delicious chocolate superfood. Goes

great with Boku Superfood (above) and blended avocados.

4) VitaMineral Green. www. HealthForce. com - Doesn't taste very good, but offers

extremely high nutrient density. Used by many vegan athletes. An excellent high-end

supplement.

5) Enerfood. www. EnerhealthBotanicals. com - Another great green-based superfood.


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Drink at least one huge serving of these superfoods daily. I typically consume 2-3 glasses of

superfood each day, and I avoid nearly all processed food.

My Best-kept Super Performance Secret

I normally don't share this with people, but I'm going to include it here as a favor to Joe and his

readers. If you've already done everything above, and you still want an unfair advantage over

the competition, you'll find what I'm about to tell you fascinating.

There is a natural food from the desert that even the U. S. military has used experimentally to

save soldiers who are bleeding out and dying from lack of blood. Now, when we say "lack of

blood" what we usually mean is "lack of oxygen." Without oxygen, your cells die, and since your

blood carries the oxygen, no blood means no oxygen getting delivered, right?

Well what if there was a natural substance that could markedly improve the performance of all

your blood cells? Would that be of interest to you?

It would mean better performance at elevation, increased endurance and an ability to handle

more blood loss before losing your life. This same substance is also a powerful anti-cancer

medicine, a natural antibiotic, a wound healer, a natural "bandage" for wounds, and a way to

ease intestinal disorders.

I don't sell this stuff, or the FDA would probably raid me at gunpoint for telling you all this. I do

grow it, however, for my own use. And you can grow it to.

What is it? Aloe vera.

Aloe vera is a true miracle of plant-based medicine. Consuming it reduces the friction of the

blood in your veins. It's like using high-grade synthetic motor oil instead of the cheap sludgy oil.

Aloe actually has a natural polymer that is incredibly slippery. This has huge implications for

your digestion, colon health and blood performance.

To use aloe vera, follow these instructions:

1) Buy aloe vera from a nursery. Look for a typical aloe vera plant with thick leaves full of

gel.


2) Grow the aloe in your own yard. If you're in a cold climate, bring it indoors during the

freezing months.

3) Once the leaves get thick enough to harvest:

4) Slice off one of the leaves with your macho combat knife.

5) Wash the leaf; put it on a cutting board. Fillet off the dark green skin -- top, bottom and

sides. This will leave a semi-transparent mass of slimy gel. This is what you want: just

the inner gel, nothing more.

6) Drop that gel into a blender. Add frozen blueberries, strawberries and bananas. Add

some raw cow's milk, almond milk or whatever you want. Add some purified water.

Throw in some sweetener if you like it sweeter (stevia, honey, etc. ).

7) Blend!

8) DRINK! It tastes great. You won't even taste the aloe.

9) Do this daily.

10) Watch your results improve. (You will also notice improved digestion and improved

elimination on the toilet, in case that area interests you. )

The best part about all this is that you don't have to buy any supplements. You don't need a

prescription. The government can't take this medicine away from you because you're not selling

it to anyone else. This is home-grown medicine and neurological enhancement. In combination

with everything else here, this will push your performance to a whole new level: Better

endurance, better stress adaptation, better resistance to infection, easier blood flow, lower

blood pressure, reduced risk of cancer and much, much more.

NOTE: Do NOT drink the dark resin-like substance found in the green skin of the leaves. This will

cause diarrhea. Only consume the clear gel of the aloe plant. Always start with a low dose first

to make sure you can handle it well.

NOTE: If you are currently on medication, talk to your doctor first about any changes to your

diet or medication routine. I am not a doctor, and I can't imagine being that nutritionally

ignorant to begin with. But I also can't take responsibility for all your hare-brained chemicals

that you ingest as pharmaceuticals and how they might interact with aloe vera, so check with

your doctor on all of this first. If you really want to piss him off, hand him a copy of this entire

chapter.

Here's part of my article on aloe vera from NaturalNews. com:

. . . Medical researchers have discovered that a compound produced by the aloe vera plant can

be administered to patients who are experiencing severe trauma and blood loss. Once

administered, this compound literally enhances the diffusion of oxygen molecules in the red


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blood cells in order to support the tissues of the body, allowing the patient to live on less blood.

This effect, of course, is promising to save the lives of a great number of people who undergo

traumatic injuries, including soldiers in the military who are wounded on the battlefield. It's

rather astounding -- by simply extracting this so-called drag reducing polymer, or DRP, from the

aloe vera plant and then administering it to patients, you can save their lives. In the military,

medics could carry very small quantities of this aloe vera compound and administer it to soldiers

who are suffering from extreme blood loss, thereby saving their lives.

How many lives could be saved? In laboratory tests on rats, the survival rate went up from 50%

to 80% for those rats who were experiencing severe blood loss. This is a huge increase in the

potential survival rate of human beings if they respond to this aloe vera compound in a similar

way. It is very exciting news for medical technology, and also for natural health and those who

are supporting the use of healing substances from nature in order to enhance modern medicine.

This ingredient comes from the slick gel substance inside the aloe vera plant. This is a mucilage

that is rich in polysaccharides and has specific visco-elastic properties. In a sense, it makes your

blood cells flow more smoothly (without so much friction).

Source: http://www. naturalnews. com/001560. html

Conclusion

You've probably noticed I have a bit of an attitude with all this information, and you're right. It's

because I don't give a shit about what anybody thinks, or what little points they want to argue

with, or whether they want to quote their dipshit doctor who never learned a single thing about

nutrition in 8 years of medical school training.

The simple truth should be self-evident: People who poison their bodies and brains with

chemicals in foods, medicines, and consumer products will have more cancer, more diabetes,

more infertility and more health problems. They will be bad shooters, bad decision makers and

have poor endurance and on-the-field performance.

People who eat healthful foods, supportive supplements and avoid toxic chemicals will be

healthier, more emotionally stable, more cognitively coherent, better adapted and show better

endurance. They will shoot better, fight better, heal better and move faster. They will have

better light sensitivity at night, and all else being equal, they will win far more frequently than

the toxic bad guys they're facing.


If you want to win, survive, defend yourself against the zombie apocalypse or whatever, you

need nutrition just as much as you need bullets. One without the other won't do you much

good, but in combination you can become a seemingly superhuman performance machine that

shoots better, faster and more intelligently than anyone else around you.

Of course, you still need all the skills and practice that Joe Nobody teaches, so I hope you read

the rest of the book and use it in your practice routines. I sure am. Because the other secret in

all this is that when your brain is healthy, you actually LEARN FASTER, too. So everything you do

in drills and range time sinks into your muscle memory twice as fast.

The really interesting thing in all this is that lead is also a brain-damaging poison. If some

chemically intoxicated home invader threatens me or my family, I'll even give him an extra dose

of lead, right into his bloodstream. I call that a "ballistic vaccine."

I hope a bad guy never threatens you or your family. But if they do, I want you to be ready for it

with the best neurology God gave you. Take care of your body and your brain, and they will take

care of you when that day comes that everything you know and love is at stake. In that moment,

as you're shaking with an adrenaline surge and wondering if you're going to survive, what would

you give to roll back the clock and have followed all the brain-protective strategies I've outlined

here?

I'll tell you. You would give anything. Whatever it costs you to apply this information to your life

right now is a bargain compared to what it may one day cost you to have ignored it.

About the Contributor

Mike Adams, known as the "Health Ranger," is the editor of NaturalNews. com. He's also a

frequent fill-in host for the nationally-broadcast Alex Jones Show (www. InfoWars. com), and an

award-winning investigative journalist. When he's not busting bad guys on the internet, he

grows organic produce, raises free-range chickens and practices shooting on a ranch in Austin,

Texas. Adams openly advocates Second Amendment rights and works to defend the Bill of

Rights against tyrants who crush freedom. He has helped defend Michigan pig farmers against

state armed raids on backyard farming operations, California raw milk farmers against gun-

toting tyrants who criminalize raw milk, and even parents who are arrested at gunpoint for

refusing to subject their children to toxic chemotherapy.

Adams has been named the second most influential person in the alternative media, and his

website is read by over four million readers monthly. If you wish to contact Adams, you can

reach him at: www. NaturalNews. com/feedback. html


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Joe’s Summary

The concepts outlined in this work are designed to maximize the average citizen’s training time.

For the Shootist, time is always the worst enemy. It seems that there is never enough of that

precious resource to hone skills, practice techniques or evaluate new technologies.

Maximizing the benefit received from training is key to developing a higher level of skill, but it is

not the only factor. The Shootist not only dedicates time to his art, but also prioritizes his actions

to receive the most return on that investment.

Making your weapon as accurate as possible is part of being a Shootist. The time invested to

gain even minor degrees of accuracy can make the difference when a shot is snapped off in less

than optimum circumstances.

The Shootist embraces technology not because it is “tacti-cool,” but does so to increase

survivability in a fight. Technology is not simply purchased and put in the safe – it is utilized,

stressed, and often rejected.

The Shootist knows to study both military technology/tactics and civilian competition shooters.

For years, the two sides have, and will continue to feed off of each other.

The Shootist understands that his body controls the weapon he yields. Physical fitness, nutrition,

and clarity of mind all play a critical role in performance. If the average shooter ignored every

single one of the hundreds of tips in this book and chose to perform only the weight exercises,

he would see a significant improvement.

Often, a Shootist can be defined not by what he does, but by what he doesn’t do. The Shootist

doesn’t:

Believe he is the best at anything

Believe he cannot improve

Project any sort of elitist attitude

Believe there is only one way

The Shootist maneuvers through life with the attitude of “I’m just a Joe Nobody,” keeping his

head low, eyes high and finger never far from the trigger. It is my greatest wish no one ever has

to utilize the skills described in this book, followed closely by the desire that everyone obtains

the skills described herein.

THE END