shishapangma - adventure consultants...for shishapangma. they will be familiar with crevasse travel...

2021 EXPEDITION TRIP NOTES

SHISHAPANGMA8,013M / 26,289FT

Contents Copyright © Adventure Consultants Ltd 2020 3

During the spring season of 2021, Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to Shishapangma via the normal route from Tibet. Of the world’s fourteen 8,000m peaks, Shishapangma is the lowest as 8,013m. The beauty of this climb is the short approach to Base Camp and gentle nature of the ascent, making for one of the most satisfying climbs within a reasonable timeframe.

We will attempt to climb Shishapanga via the normal route, which is not a technically difficult climb, and access to the Base Camp is made by a relatively short trek from the road end at 5,000m/16,400ft. It is important to recognise that Shishapangma is still one of the highest peaks on the planet and, as such, is a demanding undertaking in even the most ideal conditions.

EXPEDITION OUTLINEThe expedition commences from Kathmandu, Nepal. We then travel by bus to the Chinese border and meet the staff from the Tibetan Mountaineering Association. We transfer to Chinese vehicles for the journey overland to the mountain and along the way, we will stop for a few nights to assist acclimatisation and stretch the legs on some day hikes. The vehicles ultimately take us to

Looking across the Tibetan Plateau to Shishapangma.

2021 EXPEDITION DETAILSDates: April 13 to May 25, 2021Duration: 43 daysDeparture: ex Kathmandu, NepalPrice: US$33,750 per person

SHISHAPANGMA EXPEDITION NOTES

5,000m/16,400ft, where the trek to Advanced Base Camp begins. We utilise yaks to transport the luggage and we are free to travel with just a daypack.

The route to Camp 1 at 6,300m/20,700ft, follows the main glacier on easy angled terrain. From Camp 1, the route follows the glacier to Camp 2 at 6,900m/22,600ft and on to Camp 3 at 7,300m/24,000ft, which will be set within reach of the summit.

The summit climb from Camp 3 will take around 12 hours return for most members and involves climbing steeper snow slopes through to the summit. We intend to climb the true summit of Shishapangma, which is the East peak. The lower West (Central) summit is the most often climbed due to the access being easier and the fact that snow conditions do often exclude the higher peak.


A small team of Sherpas will accompany the expedition to provide the real ‘carrying power’ and ensure the high camps are well stocked for the summit climb.

The climbing plan involves several trips up the mountain as far as Camp 2 for acclimatisation, punctuated by some rest days at Advanced Base Camp. Two bottles of oxygen will be available for each member for the summit climb. All members will be accompanied by guides and Sherpas during the summit day.

THE ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS TEAMLOGISTICS

With technology constantly evolving, Adventure Consultants has kept abreast of all the new techniques and equipment advancements which encompass the latest in weather forecasting facilities, equipment innovations and communications systems.

Adventure Consultants expedition staff, along with the operations and logistics team at the head office in New Zealand, provide the highest level of

backup and support to the climbing team in order to run a flawless expedition. This is coupled with a very strong expedition guiding team and Sherpa contingent who are the most competent and experienced in the industry.

EXPEDITION LEADER

The Expedition Leader will be scheduled approximately six months out from the trip start. All of our trip leaders have extensive experience at high altitude and a proven record of safety, success and compatibility.

The number of guides is determined by the team size but the normal ratio of guides to members is 1:4. You will find our guides companionable and strong expedition members with considerable power and willingness to see you achieve your goals.

SHERPAS

Between its members, our Sherpa team has achieved dozens of ascents of the world’s highest peaks. Our Shishapangma team will have a dedicated lead Sherpa, known as the Sirdar, to coordinate the ascent and manage the Sherpa team

Advanced Base Camp. Photo: Dean Staples


and rope fixing. To support the Sirdar, we have a legendary group of Climbing Sherpas who operate in a harmonious atmosphere of cooperation and commitment to the expedition and its members.

We feel privileged to work alongside our group of climbing Sherpas who are regarded as amongst the strongest and most cohesive group of Sherpas on the mountain. To emphasise that point, Sherpas from other expeditions regularly enthusiastically approach us in pursuit of a future position with the Adventure Consultants team.

Our cooking staff are very well-known for the quality of the cuisine they produce. We place a lot of importance on the quality of the food we provide through off-season training for our cooks to continually develop their repertoire of recipes and hygiene practices.

It is our priority to give back to our local staff through ongoing training and development such as specific vocational training. Recently we have focused on Wilderness First Aid training, avalanche rescue training, guide training, language skills and cook training.

EXPEDITION MEMBERS

We get a wide range of experience levels and nationalities on our expeditions and our planning and logistics are geared to accommodate this. People without a lot of high altitude experience often experience trepidation about their performance before a trip and the only way to find out how you will perform is by going to altitude. Increasingly, we find that accomplished high altitude climbers are using our services so they can concentrate on their sponsorships rather than organising private expeditions.

We recommend the best approach for aspiring high altitude climbers is to climb gradually higher peaks throughout your career, so you can adjust to the requirements of altitude. However, anyone who is a strong and active mountaineer will most probably experience few problems at altitude under our supervision.

PREREQUISITE EXPERIENCEThere is no definite measure for assessing the required skill level to climb Shishapangma, so we prefer to discuss this on an individual basis. However, there are some broad guidelines that can be applied from the outset.

A successful team member will have been visiting the mountains for at least three seasons and made ascents of peaks up to 5,500–6,000m/18–20,000ft.

It is quite common for members to have previously climbed Denali in Alaska, Aconcagua in South America or various Mexican volcanoes as training for Shishapangma. They will be familiar with crevasse travel techniques and have a good overall standard of fitness.

Age itself is no barrier. To date, we have succeeded on Himalayan trips with members aged from 22 to 65 years of age. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are essential prerequisites for this expedition. The guides and other expedition staff will provide the leadership, tactics and overall decision making required during the climb, but still, you will have to physically put one foot in front of the other to climb to the top and back.

TEAM SIZEThe team will have a maximum size of 12 members and 3 guides. A team of between 3 and 6 climbing Sherpas will carry loads and support the summit climb and we will have a cook at Base Camp.

Tents in the evening light high on Shishapangma. Photo: Dean Staples


ITINERARYDates: April 13 to May 25, 2021

Following is an ideal itinerary for our 2021 Shishapangma Expedition:

April 13 Arrive Kathmandu, NepalApril 14–16 Gear check, sightseeing in

Kathmandu, get Chinese visasApril 17 Drive to Timure

(1,750m/5,740ft)April 18 Drive to and cross Tibetan

border, overnight in Kyirong (2,700m/8,900ft)

April 19 Drive to New Tingri (4,300m/14,100ft)

April 20 Acclimatisation day in New TingriApril 21 Drive to Road End Base Camp

(5,000m/16,400ft)April 22–23 Rest and acclimatisation at

Road EndApril 24 Trek to Advanced Base Camp

(ABC, 5,550m/18,200ft)April 25 Rest at ABC/organise

equipmentApril 26–May 10 Establish high camps/

acclimatiseMay 11–20 Summit climbMay 21 Return to Base CampMay 22 Trek back to Road EndMay 23 Drive to Nepalese borderMay 24 Drive to KathmanduMay 25 Depart Kathmandu, trip ends

THE ADVANTAGES OF CLIMBING WITH ADVENTURE CONSULTANTSAdventure Consultants is renowned for the quality of its service and strategy applied to high altitude expedition climbing. Our reputation is attributed to meticulous planning and experienced logistics coordination. We have a philosophy of investing in every expedition to offer our climbers the best possible chance of success.

We employ strong and specialised Expedition Leaders and support staff, who are some of the most pre-eminent in the industry. We pride ourselves on operating with small teams, the best back-up and support available. This includes nutritious and ample quantities of food, comfortable Base Camp facilities, reliable communications systems and the necessary medical back-up.

Many of our expedition members come to us because they have seen us in action on a previous trip and decide to opt for our level of service and proven experience. Others return because they know we do our very best to make expeditions safe and successful

FOODFood will be of the highest standard possible, given the remoteness of the situation. Please inform us if you have any special dietary requirements. Our Base Camp equipment and ample, nutritious meals are always the envy of other groups on the mountain!

Climbers approach the summit. Photo: Dean Staples


EQUIPMENT LIST & REFERENCE NOTESExpedition members will be sent a list detailing all the necessary clothing and equipment to be individually procured, contained within a set of Expedition Reference Notes with all the details for the trip. These notes provide extensive information on everything from suggestions of what type of camera to bring to training advice for your expedition preparation.

MEDICAL EXAMINATION & INSURANCEExpedition members will be provided with a medical questionnaire and asked to visit their family physician to receive a full medical examination. This information will be sighted only by the expedition doctor and Expedition Leader and treated with full confidentiality. Advice on immunisations will be provided at this time.

We also require members to have rescue insurance and we will consult with individual team members as to your insurance needs and solutions for coverage.

VISASExpedition members will be required to obtain visas for both Nepal and China. Nepal visas can be organised by a Nepalese Embassy or Consular Office in your own country, online or at Kathmandu Airport on arrival in Nepal. Currently, the easiest and best place to obtain a visa is on arrival at Kathmandu Airport. Visa application forms can be downloaded off the web and we will also send you a copy prior to your departure. If you choose to get your visa at the Kathmandu Airport, you will need to have a passport photo handy.

Chinese Embassies will not issue individual visas for Tibet without the proper paperwork from a Tibet-based travel agency, in our case the Tibetan Mountaineering Association. For this reason, it is easier to obtain your Chinese visa from the Chinese Embassy once you have arrived in Kathmandu. We allocate time in Kathmandu to arrange this at the start of the expedition with the assistance of our Kathmandu based agent.

Explore the ruins of Shegar Dzong, the Crystal Fort, near Tingri. Photo: Mike Roberts


FLIGHT INFORMATIONRegular flights operate into Kathmandu via Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore, Doha and Delhi. Please note that delays can occur during the expedition, therefore it is important to allow some flexibility with airline travel arrangements at the end and ensure that the ticket you purchase can have changes made to it in case of delays. Please note that tickets purchased over the internet and using air miles are often non-transferable.

PASSPORT PHOTOGRAPHSExpedition members will need to provide a digital passport photograph for climbing and trekking permits and a copy of their passport biodata page.

THE EXPEDITION FEEThe cost of the expedition, ex Kathmandu, is US$33,750.

NOTE: Our pricing for includes the new fee structure from Chinese authorities for operating high altitude expeditions in China.

This is an inclusive cost and covers the following:

• Chinese government royalty fees• All expedition organisational requirements• All climbing and trekking permits• Land transport in Tibet and Nepal• All team equipment and two and a half bottles

of oxygen• All expedition staff, including Western guides at

1:4 ratio and Sherpa support• All food after departing Kathmandu and before

arriving back in Kathmandu• All supplies necessary to make a safe and strong

bid for the summit• Medical kit• Regular written and photo internet dispatches

for families and friends to follow your progress• dZi Foundation support for their “revitalize a

village” programme – likely to include support for a Nepalese child’s education for a year

The expedition fee does not include the following:

• Air travel to and from Nepal and airport taxes• Entry visas for Nepal and China• Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu• Purchases of bottled water, gifts, alcohol (we

supply boiled/treated water for drinking)

Yaks assist with load carrying to ABC. Photo: Mike Heydon

A puja ceremony prior to climbing . Photo: Mike Heydon Enjoy quality freshly cooked meals at Base Camp. Photo: Mike Heydon


• Any costs associated with early departure from the expedition

• Personal clothing and equipment• Excess baggage charges• Personal travel/trip cancellation/rescue insurance• Gratuities

PAYMENT DETAILSAll payments should be made by bank transfer to the following bank and account:

Bank of New ZealandOffshore Branch42 Willis StreetSpark CentralWellingtonNew Zealand

for the account of Adventure Consultants Limited.

Account Number: 1000-594771-0000 Account Type: US DollarsSwift Address: BKNZNZ22

NOTE: All bank transfer charges are for the remitter’s account.

We can also accept your deposit and balance payment by credit card (Visa, Mastercard and Amex) plus a 3% card charge.

DEPOSIT

A non-refundable deposit of US$2,000 is payable to secure a place on the expedition.

BALANCE

The balance of funds is payable 90 days prior to the expedition start date.

CANCELLATION & REFUND POLICY

Once you have paid your deposit your place is confirmed, subject to payment of the balance of fees owing 90 days prior to your trip commencement date. An expedition member may then cancel their participation on the following basis:

• Cancellations outside of 90 days will result in the loss of the trip deposit.

• For cancellations made within 90 days of the trip commencement date we reserve the right to retain 50% of the balance payment fee.

Climbers pushing higher on summit day. Photo: Dean Staples


• For cancellations within 60 days of the departure date a cancellation fee of 100% of the full fee applies.

We strongly recommend you take out trip cancellation insurance via your travel agent if you wish to be covered against cancellation due to medical or personal reasons.

HOW TO JOIN THIS EXPEDITION If you would like to join the 2021 Shishapangma Expedition, please complete our online booking form and forward your deposit payment at https://www.adventureconsultants.com/expeditions/8000m-peaks/shishapangma/book-now.

CONTACT USContact us if you’d like further information or assistance in planning your trip:

Adventure Consultants LtdPO Box 73920 Brownston StreetWanaka, 9343New Zealand

Phone: +64 3 443 8711Freephone from North America: +1 866 757 8722Email: [email protected]: www.adventureconsultants.com

Acclimatisation hike near New Tingri. Photo: Mike Roberts

https://www.adventureconsultants.com/expeditions/8000m-peaks/shishapangma/book-now



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Adventure Consultants is affiliated to the New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA), New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) and a corporate member of the American Alpine Club (AAC). Adventure Consultants is a supporter of the dZi Foundation in Nepal for their ‘Revitalise a Village’ programmes.

Adventure Consultants perform to IFMGA/UIAGM standards and are world leaders in high altitude guiding.

All material Copyright © Adventure Consultants Ltd 2020

Camp 3 on Shishapangma. Photo: Dean Staples

shishapangma - adventure consultants...for shishapangma. they will be familiar with crevasse travel...

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