sgs dxlg protocols 2.19.14 - destination xl group dxlg... · 2018-09-05 · pg 20: appearance...
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Feb. 19, 2014 Page 2
Manual Revision Log Date By Revision 2/14/2011 Ellen Rose Initial Release 2/21/2011 Ellen Rose Pg. 72 – Added Special Claims Protocol – V2 6/1/11 Ellen Rose Pg. 18: Update garment sample requirements
Page 20: Update fabric package submission for darkest color Page 20: Update report distribution list Page 20: Billing – Add SGS to invoice CMRG for EU testing Page 24: Update Test Request Form for report distribution
6/7/2011 Ellen Rose Page 20: Update email subject line for report distribution 8/1/2011 Lijun
Ma/Sravanth Page 20: Fabric Package must be tested on one color Page 46: “Wrinkle Free Claim to Be Checked original state & after 5 washes” Page 71: “ Wrinkle Free Claim to Be Checked original state & after 5 Washes”
8/18/11 Ellen Rose Page 21: update billing information 12/7/11 Ellen Rose Page 18: add flammability to all fabric and additional colorway tests
Page 20: add agent to report distribution Page 24: add agent to test request form Page 27: add agent to test report format Page 28: update report format Page 78: update SGS lab list
12/21/11 Ellen Rose Page 20: CF to chlorine bleach and CF to non chlorine bleach- test without suppressor, update report distribution Page 21: update CMRG billing contact Page 22: include test request form with test report distribution Remove wrinkle free test from protocols 100G & F, 102 G & F, Add wrinkle free test to Special Claims protocol
1/3/12 Ellen Rose Page 47: correct unwashed requirement >8.0 oz/yd2: 500 Cycles Min
1/17/2012 Ellen Rose Page 4: update SGS Asia contact information Page 74: update soil release requirement
4/20/2012 Ellen Rose Page 20: update Casual Male report distribution chart
5/3/2012 Sravanth Pg 15: Updated Illinois Regulatory Information Pg 19: Updated Composite Requirement Pg 20: Appearance Evaluation must be performance for all Additional Colorways Pg. 24- update TRF with country destination and Agent contact information Pg 65: Added Socks & Hosiery Protocol Pg 79: Updated Lab List Protocols 1,2, 19& 20 were updated for Dry Cleaning testing.
7/27/2012 ERose Pg. 22: add conditional pass explanation to report summary Pg 22: Document report failures in red Pg. 20: update report distribution Pg. 24: update TRF report distribution Remove “professional” from dry clean standards except leathers/suedes Pg. 79: update SGS lab list
7/30/2012 ERose Pg. 20, 22: add information to upload reports to Data Manager 9/24/2012 ERose Pg 20: update Sandy Sherman’s email address 2/18/13 ERose Pg. 74: update zipper requirement
3/15/13 ERose Pg 20-21: update report distribution chart 4/16/2013 ERose Change company name to Destination XL Group, INC (DXLG) thru manual
Pg. 19: add direction for seam slippage test Pg. 43: Added new test-- CF to Crocking (AATCC 8/116) Pg. 65: Added Antifungal test for Socks(AATCC 30), qualitative only Pg. 74: Added Attachment Strength (ect.) for Shank Button Pg. 76:Added 20 Home Launderings for Antibacterial activity assessment of textile materials( AATCC 147) Pg. 76: Revised Wrinkle Free/Resistant/Easy Care( AATCC 143)
5/15/13 ERose Separate protocols to separate document 5/22/13 ERose Page 43-44: change Wrinkle Resistant requirements from 4.0 to 3.5 8/21/2013 Sravanth Elastic Protocols: Added requirements for Stretch & Recovery (Narrow Width)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 3
1/13/2014 ERose Pg: 46 Add direction to test all colors for anti microbial and wicking tests Pg: 18: update Loss of lint requirement, update attachment strength test method and requirement, add pocket strength attachment test method and requirement. Pg. 16: add requirement for appearance test for double face fleece Pg. 18: add pilling test and requirement update protocols 200 G/F, 200 F, 201G/F, Special claims, Appendix 2 as highlighted in yellow Pg. 46: update size sticker evaluation test method and requirements
2/19/2014 Erose Pg. 15 &16 Spec 200 F & G… Under general appearance added (Satisfactory for double face fleece) Pg. 18 & 20: added Terry Robe to specification titles Pg. 22, 27, 35:added pocket attachment strength
Pg. 46: Non-Iron claim added into wrinkle resistance / durable press properties
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 4
Protocols Index
Page Standard 1: 100G: Woven Garment (Shirts & Pants) 5
Standard 2: 100F: Woven Fabric (Shirts & Pants) 6 Standard 3: 101G: Woven Denim Garment 8 Standard 4: 101F: Woven Denim Fabric 10
Standard 5: 102G: Woven Twill Garment 12 Standard 6: 102F: Woven Twill Fabric 13
Standard 7: 200G: Knit Garments 15 Standard 8: 200F: Knit Fabric 16 Standard 9: 201G: Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe 18 Standard 10: 201F: Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Fabric 20
Standard 11: 202G: Swimwear 22 Standard 12: 202F: Swimwear Fabric 23
Standard 13: 300: Sweaters 25 Standard 14: 400G: Leather & Suede Garments 27
Standard 15: 400F: Leather & Suede Hides 28 Standard 16: 500F: Lining Fabric (Applies for all textile items) 29
Standard 17: 600G: Textile Hats & Caps 31 Standard 18: 601G: Socks & Hosiery 33 Standard 19: 700G: Outerwear Garments (with or without lining) 35
Standard 20: 700F: Outerwear Fabric (shell & lining) 37 Standard 21: 701G: Sport Coats, Dress Jacket, Suits (with or without lining) 39
Standard 22: 701F: Sport Coats, Dress Jackets, Suits (shell & lining) 41 Standard 23: 800: Component Protocol 43
Standard 24: 801: Elastic Protocol 44 Special Claims Protocol Spec 802 45
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 5
STANDARD #1
Woven Garments Shirts & Pants Spec 100G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for dress pants
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC/ASTM TS-004 No More than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged
components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Seam strength ASTM D1683 < 6.0 oz/yd2: 20lb Min
≥ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25lb Min
Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Pocket attachment strength AATCC TS 010 15 lbs Min. Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others
Component Not Tested At Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing
procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 6
STANDARD #2
Woven Fabric Shirts & Pants Spec 100F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/ Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/ 20A 0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 100% Cotton: 4%
All other: 3% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for dress pants
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No More than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0; Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (with out suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 3.0
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration: Activewear
AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing:Chambray, White, Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 < 6.0 oz/yd2 : 30 lb Min.
≥ 6.0 oz/yd2 : 40 lb Min.
Tear strength ASTM D1424 < 6.0 oz/yd2 : 2.5 lb Min.
6.0- 7.9 oz/yd2 : 3.0 lb Min.
≥8.0 oz/yd2 : 4.0 lb Min
Stretch and recovery (Yarns ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 7
contain spandex ≥5% and in the direction of stretch only)
Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins):90% Min
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8
*Stain resistance (if claimed) AATCC 130 Mod. Class 4.0 after 1HL/ 5HL Analytical – Upon Request Only
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 8
STANDARD #3
Woven Denim Garment Spec 101G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1) Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act
Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment
Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Garment Wash- 2.5% Rigid: 4% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components,
excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Colorfastness Colorfastness to crocking AATCC 8/116 General:
Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 2.5 Dark Indigo/Black: Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 2.0
Performance
Seam strength ASTM D1683 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 35 lb Min
10.1-12.0 oz/yd2
: 40 lb Min ≧12.0 oz/yd
2: 50 lb Min.
Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Pocket attachment strength AATCC TS 010 20 lbs pH value AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B – EU Market Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 ìg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 9
fiber included) Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 10
STANDARD #4
Woven Denim Fabric Spec 101F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/ 20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As Claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Fabric Wash – 2.5 % Rigid – 4% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0
3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning
Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for
Reference when fails at 20 AFU) CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Ozone # AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 CF to Burnt Gas Fumes # AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 *Phenolic Yellowing # ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5 Performance
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1
Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 55x35 lb Min.
10.1-12.0 oz/yd2
65x 40 lb Min. > 12.0 oz/yd
2: 85x70 lb Min.
Tear strength ASTM D1424 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 4.0x3.0 lb Min.
10.1-12.0 oz/yd2
4.0x 3.5 lb Min. > 12.0 oz/yd
2: 6.5x4.0 lb Min.
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 11
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 (No hole) Stretch Denim: 100 cycles Min. Unwash: 500 cycles Min Washed: 200 cycles Min
Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min
Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): 90% Min
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
# For indigo Dye, White Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 12
STANDARD #5 Woven Twill Garment Spec 102G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1) Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size
Fabric Construction Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% / 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC/ASTM TS-004 No more than 5% or ½”
Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Performance
Seam strength ASTM D1683 < 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 35 lb Min.
Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Component attachment strength Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 modified 15 lb min Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others
Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B – EU Market Analytical
Azocolourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification Determined by general garment Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 13
STANDARD #6 Woven Twill Fabric Spec 102F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20A/ ASTM D629
0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 100% Cotton: 4%
All other: 3% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance
Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle
Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0 CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 10AFU for
reference when fails at 20AFU) CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration: Activewear
AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
6.0- 7.9oz/yd2
40 x 30 lb Min.
testing procedures
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 14
≧ 8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.
Tear strength ASTM D1424 (Warp x Weft) <6.0 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2
3.0 lb Min. ≧8.0 oz/yd
2: 4.0 lb Min.
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 (No hole) Stretch Twill: 100 Cycles Min. Unwash: ≤ 8.0 oz/yd
2: 300 Cycles Min
>8.0 oz/yd2: 500 Cycles Min
Washed: ≤ 8.0 oz/yd
2: 100 Cycles Min
> 8.0 oz/yd2: 200 Cycles Min
Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min
Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): 90% Min
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8
*Stain resistance (If claimed) AATCC 130 Mod. Class4.0after1/5HL
Analytical – Upon Request Only
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 15
STANDARD #7 Knit Garment Spec 200G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 5% x 5% 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, Satisfactory for Double Face Fleece Pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5 (satisfactory for double face fleece)
Performance Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m
2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Component attachment strength Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others
Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B – EU Market Analytical
Azocolourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 ìg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 16
STANDARD #8 Knit Fabric Spec 200F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed
Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 5% x 5%
1% growth Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage
No growth Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option
1 No more than 5% or ½”
Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 (satisfactory for double face fleece)
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering
AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning
Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle
Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 DryClass4.0/WetClass3.0
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU)
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration: Activewear
AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Bursting strength ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m
2: 40 psi
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 17
≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 psi
Pilling: double face fleece with anti- pilled treatment claim
ASTM D3512 Satisfactory @30min. The rating of test specimen after test, please refer to Appendix 2, pg.
Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
ASTM D2594 Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 18
STANDARD #9 Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Spec 201G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% Knit: 5% x 5% All: 1% growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Loss of Lint Visual Assessment No Noticeable (For Terry Robe) Performance
Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 <6.0 oz/yd2: 20 lb Min
≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb
Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Pocket attachment strength ASTM C1683Modified Woven 15lb min. Knit<120gm/m2: 35%or 6lb > 120 gm/m2: 50% and/ or 7lbs
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others
Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B-EU Market
Analytical Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234,
In House Method <30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 19
included) Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 20
STANDARD #10 Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Fabric Spec 201F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)
+5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count Woven – ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887
+5% from contracted weight
Special Fabric Type Visual check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance
Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Light @ 20 AFU (Silk – 10AFU)
AATCC 16, Option 3
Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU)
CF to Water AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration:
AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1
Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 21
≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 40 lb Min.
Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <6.0 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2
3.0 lb Min. ≧8.0 oz/yd
2: 4.0 lb Min.
Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2: 40 lb psi
≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 lb psi
Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit
Stretch: 15% Min
Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%
Knit: ASTM D2594
Absorbency ASTM 4772 Ultra-absorbency: 75% Min Two-sided terry: 65% Min One-sided terry: 35% Min
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only *Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 22
STANDARD #11 Swimwear Spec 202G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% Knit: 5% x 5% Woven/Knit: 1% growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Performance
Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 <6.0 oz/yd2: 20 lb Min
≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min
Seam stretchability (Knit) AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Component attachment strength Refer to Sec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 Modified Woven: 15 lb Min
Knit: < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Others
Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage
Follow fabric required test items to test
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request) EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm
2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 23
STANDARD #12 Swimwear Fabric Spec 202F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20A/ ASTM D629
0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight Woven ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)
+5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count Woven – ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887
+5% from contracted weight
Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance
Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering/Hand Wash
AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Light @ 40 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 20 AFU for Reference when fails at 40 AFU)
CF to Water AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration
AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Sea Water AATCC 106 Color Change: Class 4.0 Straining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Color Change: Class 4.0 *Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 24
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 40 lb Min.
Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <6.0 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2
3.0 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.
Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2: 40 lb psi
≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 lb psi
Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/Knit: Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30Sec/30 mins): Min 90%
Knit: ASTM D2594
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 25
STANDARD #13 Sweaters Spec 300G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Sweater weight per dozen ASTM D3887 Modified +5% from contracted weight Gauge ASTM D3887 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 5% x 5% (L X W) 1% growth
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0
No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 143 1 Wash – Staining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle
Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry: Class 4.0 Wet: Class 3.0
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provided 10AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration: Activewear AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory shades if > 50%
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 26
coverage Performance
Flammability (if not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m
2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Bursting Strength ASTM D3786 < 120 gm/m2: 40 psi
≧120 gm/m2: 5
psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >+5 and in the direction of stretch only)
Knit: ASTM D2594 Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max
*Pilling Resistance (For wool and wool blended sample )
ICI pilling box method Wood blends: class 3.5 @4 hours (14,400 revolutions) Cashmere/Luxury fibers: class 3.5 @ 2 hours (7200 revolutions)
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 27
STANDARD #14 Leather and Suede Garments 400G
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling
Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If textile lining) Wool Products Labeling Act (If wool lining) Care Labeling Rule
Visual Assessment Leather Identification Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size
Fabric Construction Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Professional Leather Clean Professional Leather Clean 2% shrinkage No growth Differential Shrinkage (Shell/Lining): 2%
Appearance After Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Performance
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Seam Strength ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 modified 15 lb. min Seam slippage see pg. 19 in test manual for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
B-EU Market
Analytical Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234,
In House Method <30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 28
STANDARD #15 Leather and Suede Hides 400F
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (Textile components/lining)
AATCC 20/20A Confirm
Leather thickness in millimeters ASTM D1813 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Professional Leather Clean Professional Leather Clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Appearance After Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Colorfastness
CF to Professionally Leather Clean
Leather Clean – 1 Cycle Color Straining: Class 4.0- Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU)
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if >50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability – Fabric only if not exempt
CFR 1610 Class 1
Seam slippage see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Tensile strength ASTM D5034 40 lb Min Tear strength ASTM D1424 <6.0 oz/yd
2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2
3.0 lb Min. 8.0 oz/yd
2: 4.0 lb Min.
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 29
STANDARD #16 Lining Fabrics (Applies for all Textile Items) 500F
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven - ASTM D3776 (oz/Sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)
+5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count Woven - ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887
+5% from contracted weight
Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150/135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other – 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell and lining): 2%
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 143/135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0
3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle
Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / WetClass 3.0
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 30
Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 10 AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU)
CF to Sea Water (Swimwear Only)
AATCC 106 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorinated Pool Water (Swimwear only)
AATCC 162 Color Change: Class 4.0
CF to Ozone (Indigo Dye & White)
AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5
CF to Burnt Gas Fumes (Indigo Dye & White)
AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5
*Phenolic Yellowing White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance Flammability CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam Strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 20 lb Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Seam Stretchability (Knit) AATCC TS-015 <120 gm/m2
35% and/or 6 lbs ≧12.0 gm/m
2: 50% and/or 7 lbs
Tensile strength (woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 20 lbs Min.
3.5-6.0 oz/yd2 :
30 lb Min. 6.0-7.9 oz/yd
2 40 x 30 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.
Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <3.5 oz/yd2: 1.5 lbs Min.
3.5-5.9 oz/yd2 :
2.5 lb Min. 6.0-7.9 oz/yd
2: 3.0 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.
Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2
40 psi ≧12.0 gm/m
2: 55
psi Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
*Water Repellency (If claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed 80 Min: after 3 washes
*Water Resistant/Rain Test (If claimed)
AATCC 35 No more than 1 gram leakage
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 31
STANDARD #17 Textiles Hats and Caps 600G
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling
Labeling Wool Product Labeling Act
Visual assessment Fiber Content Label (If wool) RN# or WPL # County of Origin Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If requested/claimed)
AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other – 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell and lining): 2%
Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering
AATCC 143 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Light @ 40 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 20 AFU for reference when fails at 40 AFU)
*Phenolic Yellowing: Denim, Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Seam Strength ASTM D1683 10 lbs Min Seam Stretchability AATCC TS-015 <120 gm/m
2 35% and/or 6 lbs
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 32
≧12.0 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lbs
Bursting strength (Knit ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2
40 psi ≧12.0 gm/m
2: 55
psi
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Analytical *Lead in surface coatings (When request)
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 33
STANDARD #18 Socks & Hosiery – 601 G
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label Care Label Country of Origin RN # or WPL # Size
Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* (If requested/claimed)
AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Weight per dozen Standard Measure +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count – Knit ASTM D3887 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight
Yarn Construction ASTM D 1244 As Claimed Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Shrinkage AATCC 150 Subjective evaluation on all sizes after wash. No more than 7% x 7% shrinkage and the ability to fit NAHM Form
Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering
AATCC 143 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS 001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS 001 Class 4.0 CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet
Class 3.0 CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Light @ 10 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 5 AFU for reference when fails at 10 AFU)
*Phenolic Yellowing: Denim, Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Abrasion Resistance of Socks (Heel Area)
ASTM D4966 (Mod.) Athletic: 400 cycles minimum Casual/ Dress: 200 cycles minimum
Fit properties – After Laundering
SGS In-house Method Sock Strechability – Biaxial stretch: 0.5 lb min – 9lb
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 34
max Sock Strechability – Cuff Support: 0.25 lb/in min. – 4.25 lb/in max Sock Strechability – Cuff Correspond to maximum heel girth (inches)
Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 *Antifungal (If claimed) AATCC 30 (Test III) Qualitative Only
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative
Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 35
STANDARD #19 Outerwear Garments (With or Without Lining) 700G
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1)
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label Care Label Country of Origin RN # or WPL # Size
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell & lining): 2%
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for outerwear
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Performance
Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Seam Stretchability AATCC/ASTM TS-015 <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Pocket attachment strength ASTM D 1683 modified <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Other *Feather/Down Content (If applicable)
IDFL Report Actual
*Penetration resistance of filling material (If req.)
FTMS 191 Method 5530 Report Actual
*Fill power (If requested) IDFL Report Actual *Oxygen number (If requested)
IDFL Report Actual
*Turbidity cleanliness (If requested
IDFL Report Actual
*Species ID (If requested) IDFL Report Actual Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 36
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)
ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 37
STANDARD #20 Outerwear Fabric (Shell and Lining) 700F
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven -ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/sq.m)
+5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count Woven- ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887
+5% from contracted weight
Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between) Shell % lining): 2%
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for outerwear
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½”
Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0
No distortion defects
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning
Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Shell: CF to Light @ 40 AFU Lining: CF to Light @ 20 AFU
AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 20 AFU for reference when fails at 40 AFU; 10 AFU when fails at 20 AFU)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 38
*Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability CFR 1610 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min
Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.
3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 40 x 30 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.
Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <3.5 oz/yd2: 1.5 lb Min.
3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 3.0 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.
Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2: 40 psi
≧120 gm/m2: 55
psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit:
Stretch: 15% Min
Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 *Water Repellency (if claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed
80 Min: after 3 washes *Water Resistance/Rain Test (If claimed)
AATCC 35 No more than 1 gram leakage
Other
*Feather/Down Content (If requested)
IDFL Report Actual
*Penetration resistance of filling material (If req.)
FTMS 191 Method 5530 Report Actual
*Fill power (If requested) IDFL Report Actual *Oxygen number (If requested)
IDFL Report Actual
*Turbidity cleanliness (If requested)
IDFL Report Actual
*Species ID (If requested) IDFL Report Actual Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 39
STANDARD #21 Sports Coats, Dress jacket, Suits (With or Without Lining) 701G
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Labeling
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act
Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label Care Label Country of Origin RN # or WPL # Size
Fabric Construction
Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth 2. Knit: Suede Fleece/Thermal 5% x 8% (L x W) Others: 5% 1% growth 3. Differential shrinkage (between shell & lining): 2%
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for this protocol
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects,
damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
Performance
Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Min
Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”
Seam Stretchability AATCC TS-015 <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Component attachment strength
Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800
Pocket attachment strength ASTM D 1683 modified <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb
≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb
Analytical
*Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
B-EU Market
Analytical
Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method
<30 mg/kg
Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)
EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week
Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 40
(When Request Or Nylon fiber included) Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment
testing procedures Comply
Care Symbol/wording verification
Determined by general garment testing procedures
Comply
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 41
STANDARD #22 Sports Coats, Dress Jacket, Suits (Shell and Lining) 701F
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A-USA Market Fabric Construction
Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends
Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven -ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/sq.m)
+5% from contracted weight
Fabric Count Woven- ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887
+5% from contracted weight
Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth 2. Knit: Suede Fleece/Thermal 5% x 8% (L X W) Others: 5% 1% growth 3. Differential shrinkage (between) Shell % lining): 2%
Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for this protocol
dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth
Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning
General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0
Appearance After Dry Ironing
General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects
Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0
3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning
Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle
Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0; Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)
AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 3.0
CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only
AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 42
10 AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU)
*Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage
ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
Performance
Flammability CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test
ASTM D434 20 lb Min
Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.
3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 40 x 30 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.
Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <3.5 oz/yd2: 1.5 lb Min.
3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.
6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 3.0 lb Min.
≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.
Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2: 40 psi
≧120 gm/m2: 55
psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)
Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit:
Stretch: 15% Min
Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%
*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 *Water Repellency (if claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed
80 Min: after 3 washes
*Water Resistance/Rain Test (If claimed)
AATCC 35 No more than 1 gram leakage
Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 43
STANDARD #23 Component Protocol 800
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A- Button Effects of Washing /Dry cleaning AATCC 150- 3 Washes or One
commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion.
*Lead in surface coatings (when request)
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
*Lead in substrate (when request) Shall not exceed 100 ppm (0.01% by weight)
Attachment Strength ASTM D 7142 15.0 lbs @ 10.0 seconds
Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges
B- Shank Button Effects of Washing/ Dry cleaning AATCC 150- 3 Washes or One
commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No Corrosion
*Lead in surface coatings (When request)
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
Attachment Strength Pull Method Straight position Slant position @60°
Straight position (Min. 80 lbs); Slant position@ 60 degrees (Min. 80 lbs) Remark: Please report actual data till break (specify if shank fall apart or fabric ruptured).
Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges C-Snap Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One
commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion, detach
*Lead in surface coatings (when request)
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
*Lead in substrate (when request) Shall not exceed 100 ppm (0.01% by weight)
Attachment Strength ASTM D7142, Option 2 15.0 lbs @ 10.0 seconds Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges
D- Zipper Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One
commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion, detach
*Lead in surface coatings (when request)
ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)
*Lead in substrate (when request) Shall not exceed 100 ppm (0.01% by weight)
Attachment Strength – Top Stop Zip/Unzip Position; Bottom Stop, Slider Lock & Tab
ASTM D2061 Use YKK requirements
Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges
E- Other Hardware (Including Fabric with two layers) Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One
commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion, detach
Attachment Strength Pull Method Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 44
STANDARD #24 Elastic Protocol 801
Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements
A – USA Market Fabric Construction
Elastic Width (mm) Standard Measure As Claimed Elastic Weight ASM D3776 Elastic Construction ASTM D3775 Yarn Size ASTM D1059 Number of Elastic Yarns Visual
Wrapped Yarns Visual Construction/workmanship Visual No Major Defects Dimensional Stability
Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 -4% x 1% growth Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage
No growth Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects, excessive
puckering, Pill- Class 4.0
Stretch & Recovery For Narrow Elastic
Elastic Memory Test (Narrow Elastic)
Stretch at 20 lbf : Length – 120-185% Recovery at 60 Sec: Length – Min 85%
ASTM D 5278
Stretch & Recovery (Fabrics) Stretch
Growth
Recovery <5% Spandex >5% Spandex
One way stretch 20% min. Two way stretch 15% min.
4% maximum
85% Recovery @ 60 min. 90% Recovery @ 60 min.
ASTM D3107
Colorfastness
CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Staining: Class 4.0 3 Washes- Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5
CF to Commercial Dry cleaning
Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.0
CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry: Class 4.0 Wet: Class 3.0
CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5
pH value AATCC 81 6-8 CF to Ozone # AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 CF to Burnt Gas Fumes # AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5
* Phenolic Yellowing # ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5
# For indigo Dye, White, Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 45
Test Protocol for Special Claims – Spec 802
Test Property Test Method Requirement
*Antibacterial activity
assessment of textile
materials
AATCC 147 (If Claimed Anti-Microbial and /or Anti-Bacterial)
No bacterial colonies in contact area :Test Original State Only/20
Home Launderings. All colors must be tested
All colors must be tested
*Water Vapor
Transmission
ASTM E96 (B)
Upright Cup Method
(Test Original State/ 3 Home Launderings)- Breathsble Fabric
≥ 500 g / sq. meter / 24 hours
*Air Permeability ASTM D737 (Test Original State/ 3 Home Laundeirngs)- Windproof claim
1.0 mm/s Max
*Absorbency AATCC 79 (Moisture Management)
Maximum 30 seconds
(Test Original State Only)
*Water wicking test
AATCC 197 (Moisture Management)
(If Claimed "Wicks Away Moisture" or Similar)
3 Inches (minimum) at 30 minutes
(Test original state/5 Washes) All Colors must be tested
*Water repellency:
Spray test
AATCC 22 (Test Original State/ 5 Home Laundeirngs)
Report original and after 5 launderings
Original: ISO 90 minimum
After 5 washes: ISO 70 minimum
*Oil repellency AATCC 118 (Stain proof claims)
(After 5 launderings)
Original: minimum 6
After 5 washes: minimum 4
*Water Resistance: rain
test
AATCC 35 (Water claims)
(Rain test - if claimed water resistant)
Less than 1 gram
Customs Test (Test on garments): No more than 1 gm of water
penetration at 600 mm pressure for a 2 minute duration
*Waterproof AATCC 127 option 2
or ASTM D751
option A
(If Claimed Waterproof)
2000mm w.c. (200 cm w. c. or 196 mbar or 2.86 psi) before and after
5 launderings
*Soil release: oily stain
release method
AATCC 130
(If Claimed)
Original: Grade 3.5
After 5 washes: Grade 3.0
*Wrinkle resistance /
durable press
AATCC 143 Wrinkle Free or Non Iron Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Postcure Process Smoothness: Grade 4 min Pocket seam: Grade 4 min Seams: Grade 4 min (Seams include collar,
Wrinkle Resistant Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Pre-cure Process Smoothness: Grade 3.5 min Pocket seam: Grade 3.5 min Seams: Grade 3.5 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Note: No pleat/crease
Easy Care Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Smoothness: Grade 3 min Pocket seam: Grade 3 min Seams: Grade 3 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Pleats/Creases: Grade 3 min
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 46
Test Property Test Method Requirement
yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Pleats/Creases: Grade 4 min
evaluation Postcure Process Smoothness: Grade 3.5 min Pocket seam: Grade 3.5 min Seams: Grade 3.5 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam)
Pleats/Creases:
Grade 3.5 min
*Fomaldehyde (Wrinkle
Free/ Durable Press
Garment Only)
JIS L1041 < 75 ppm
*pH Valuable (Wrinkle
Free/ Durable Press
Garment Only)
AATCC 81 6.0- 8.0
*Size Sticker Evaluation MTS S026
Effective of heat on
sticker 120 + 2
degrees F for 300
hours
Stickers durability
and residue on
fabrics: 120 + 2
degrees F, 95%
Relative humidity for
6 hours
Effect of Heat on Sticker: No wrinkling, No debonding, No curling
Sticker’s durability and residue on fabrics
No heavy amount of fiber fills on stickers
No amount of adhesive residue remaining on stickers
Color change on fabric: 4.0
*Anti-Fade AATCC 150 (Additional claims)
Evaluate after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.
Color Change: Class 4.0 Minimum
*Anti-pill AATCC 150 (Additional claims)
Evaluate after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.
Pill: Class 4.0 Minimum
*Non-Roll Collar AATCC 150 (Additional claims)
Evaluate after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.
Collar well retain withour rolling defect
*Unbreakable Buttons AATCC 143 (Additional claims)
AATCC 143: Evaluate 30 buttons after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.
No chips, cracks or breakage
ASTM D 5171- Evaluate 30 buttons under 5.5 in- oz impact energy
No chips, cracks or breakage
*Durability of Flocking
AATCC 150 (Additional claims)
Compare original and after 3 Washes, Wash according to care
instructions
Feb. 19, 2014 Page 47
Test Property Test Method Requirement
No obvious defects/observations affecting the end
performance/appearance, color change/ staining, satisfactory
performance of the components and trims.
* Tagless Labels
(Screen Print, Pad Print,
Heat-Set Transfer)
AATCC 150 Wash or dry clean according to proposed care method. Evaluate and
record comments after 5, 10, 15, 20 wash/dry cycle or 5 dry clean
cycles.
Rate:
Color Change- Class 4.0
Self Staining- Class 4.5
Appearance- No fraying, unraveling, cracking, peeling, text must be
legible
*Ultra violet protection
factor (UPF)
AATCC 183-2004 /
ASTM D6544-00
(2007)
/ ASTM D6603-10
(UPF)
(Applicable If claimed)
Perform on “Original” and “after simulated use and care” samples. For
simulated use and care, need to prepare the sample as per ASTM
D6544-00
Report UPF rating only
The UPF rating shall be given as per ASTM Method D6603 as below:
15-24: Good UV protection
25-39: Very good UV protection
40-50+: Excellent UV Protection
*Thermal transmittance
of textile materials
ASTM D1518 (If claimed)
Report result or verify claim (1 rep)
0.6 CLO.
*Feather and down:
Content analysis
ASTM D4524-
86(2005) / IDFB 3
(Original)
As specified (for labeling, follow the USA (ADA) Textile Labeling
Guidelines for Feather and Down)
2 - 3 % Tolerance
*Feather and down: Fill
power
IDFB 10 (Original)
(Steam Conditioning)
As claimed (min.): + or - 5%
If no claim is made, report value only
*Feather and down:
Turbidity
IDFB 11 (Original)
300 mm minimum (US Measurement)
Hypo-allergenic / Super Clean Claims: 500 mm minimum
*Feather and down:
oxygen number
IDFB 21 / IDFB 7 /
JIS 6.6 / EN 1162
(Original)
Less than 10
Hypo-allergenic / Super Clean Claims: < 5
*Feather and down:
Odor
IDFL (Original)
No Putrid Condition
*Feather and down: Fat
and oil
IDFB 4 (Original)
0.7% min - 2.0% Maximum
*Feather and down:
Downproofness
FTM 191- Method
5530 (Modified)
(Original)
Grade 4 Minimum