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RETOURS DE FORCEL.A. FASHION STARS, ACT II

PLUS: EmmyS aT 65!GiORGiO aRmaniaBiGaiL SPEnCERViVa iTaLia, La STyLE!

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Lizzy CapLan

An eco -f r iendly Napa/Sonoma wine countr y v i s i t in fall i s t r uly a tr ip to bountif ul .

By Abby Tegnelia

Red, White, and...

184  la-confidential-magazine.com

184-187-LAC_F_Napa_Sept14.indd 184 8/8/14 10:36 AM

Like an excruciating soccer match

between two teams trying to ride

out the clock, Napa and Sonoma

were put through the ringer this

year, muscling through the tough-

est drought in a century, summer

wildfires, and even some early

bud break. But now they’ve made it to the buzzer—

it’s harvest time! After the bullying they’ve

triumphed over, the release parties that are coming

early this year should be extra celebratory.

Between all of the excitement and the crisp Indian

summerlike weather, fall is a magical time to visit

wine country and take part in the harvest traditions,

paying homage to Mother Nature for another great

year. In fact, she is reigning supreme in Napa and

Sonoma, which are ushering in an era of eco-

conscious winemaking.

“Linking what we’re doing for the environment

to what’s in the bottle is very important to me,” says

the pioneering Mike Benziger, general manager

and winegrower for Sonoma’s Benziger Family

Winery, whose harvest will be in “full swing” by

September 1. “Our job is to reconnect people to the

land, which is very powerful. We get the customer

out in the vineyard, teach them some farming tech-

niques, and then get them back to the tasting room

to show the [resultant] high-quality wine. It makes

an impact on people.”

In 2000, Benziger became the very first winery in

Napa or Sonoma to be granted a Biodynamic

Certification—which means it takes an organic,

holistic approach to winemaking that encompasses

everything from the animals on the property to

the moon’s phases—but now the country’s most

famous wine region has an impressive array of

LEED-certified wineries, Biodynamic vineyards,

and “green” hotels. The ultimate eco-resort in the

area is Yountville’s Bardessono, which confidently

calls itself the “greenest luxury property in the

world.” The 62-room LEED-Platinum-certified

hotel (one of only three in the US) boasts 940 solar

panels for electricity, auto blinds outside the rooms

to efficiently lower the demand for heating and cool-

ing, and “smart” thermostats that can tell when the

room is vacant and power themselves down.

But the hotel, which is celebrating its fifth anniver-

sary this year, is so deft at incorporating its green

practices into its five-star operation, that many peo-

ple remain unaware that their favorite luxe hotel is

doing so much for the environment.

“We’ve married green with luxury,” says Jim

Treadway, Bardessono’s GM, who helped develop

the hotel and relocated from Seattle to run it.

“Anyone with strong environmental awareness

who’s done their research settles on us, but only

about 20 percent of our guests stay here for that. All

guests, once they’re here, are made subtly aware.”

In a town where farm-to-table means that the

vegetables are grown, literally, across the street

(The French Laundry and its famous gardens are

also in Yountville), Bardessono grows its own pro-

duce. There is no middleman for any of the

proteins—eggs, fish, and poultry are purchased

directly from farms. And room service does not

carry brands from companies whose practices

aren’t deemed satisfactorily sustainable.

(Budweiser, Coca-Cola, and Pepsi didn’t make the

cut, but the hotel proudly serves Peet’s Coffee,

whose roasting facility is LEED Gold certified).

About half an hour north, Napa’s most rural town

of Calistoga is host to the 157-acre Calistoga Ranch,

... GReen! The Magnolia Courtyard at Yountville’s LEED-Platinum-certified Bardessono hotel. left: Jericho Canyon Vineyard in Calistoga.

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a 50-room luxury Auberge resort. The GM there,

Coni Thornburg, is so passionate about being

kind to the earth that her nickname has become

“Mother Nature.”

At the hotel, farm-fresh eggs come right from an

on-site chicken coop, and every single drop of water

is recycled for irrigation. Hiking trails on the ranch

were forged by hand so as not to disturb wildlife, and

less than 20 trees were removed in order to build the

resort, so there might be a tree growing right through

the deck of your guest room. Spa products are made

with honey from the property’s beehives, and rooms

smell of fresh rosemary and lavender from the

garden. Calistoga Ranch also composts on-site,

which most of the locals do in their homes, too. “This

is how we live!” Thornburg says. “We’re in it for all

the right reasons.”

For harvest, starting this month, Calistoga Ranch

guests may get up at 5 am to join in the fun (there’s a

vineyard on property). “Forty guests harvested with

us last year,” Thornburg says. “They had beautiful

Cabernet sticky fingers. Our guests are people want-

ing to reconnect with nature in a private setting.”

Also in Calistoga, vintner Suzanne Phifer Pavitt,

with her husband, Shane, has built a barn using

repurposed wood that looks like it came right out of

“It’s not about the money; It’s about mInImIzIng our carbon footprInt.

people come to lIve vIcarIously through the owners.”

—Suzanne Phifer Pavitt

Fewer than 20 trees were removed from the 157-acre Calistoga Ranch property when it was built; guest rooms like this were constructed around the ones remaining.

The pool at Bardessono, which calls itself the greenest luxury property in the world.

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184-187-LAC_F_Napa_Sept14.indd 186 8/8/14 10:37 AM

Town & Country. They used 100-year-old redwood from

a barn five miles down the road, recycled blue jeans as

insulation, chandeliers made from used wire, copper

sheets from a shipyard in Georgia, and a 1,000-pound

tasting table made from a single fallen walnut tree that

now hangs from the roof as if by magic.

The barn, which opened in 2011, serves as the tasting

room for Phifer Pavitt’s wines—and will even be hosting

a meditation workshop this fall. In many ways, the

Pavitts represent the “new” eco-conscious stewards

who move to wine country to live off the land and make

wines that are stories unto themselves.

“It’s not about the money; it’s about minimizing our

carbon footprint,” Phifer Pavitt says. “We have vegeta-

ble and fruit trees. We make our own olive oil and

preserves. People come for the experience, to live vicar-

iously through the owners. They want to know the story

behind the wine.”

The scoop? A line of wine called Date Night that

includes a yummy Cabernet Sauvignon, a brand-new

sparkling white, and a narrative thread that connects

the reds and the whites with being green. LAC

St. HeLenA’S CoLgin CeLLArS is one of Napa’s most beloved winemakers, with vintner/

owner Ann Colgin quickly rising to “cult” status for her Cabernet blends after opening in 1992.

There is currently a waiting list to buy her small-production vintages (the wines can top $500

retail), but she encourages signing up, as the list does move. She makes four wines now (three

of which are Cab blends), all using grapes from very specifc vineyards, chosen with care for

that particular varietal. “We make the best of the best,” she says. “We showcase varietals from

that perfect spot of land for their personalities. This gives the wines a beautiful sense of place,

for inviting, voluptuous vintages.”

Livermore vALLey, east of San Francisco, has long been lying low,

enjoying all of the attention lavished on it by locals and Silicon Valley

execs. Tech-money types have vineyard weddings here, buy second

homes on acres of land, and in general keep their gem hidden from winos

who hail from farther south. But that’s starting to change. Livermore is

the only pocket of wine country accessible by train, making the trip easy

for those fying into SFO. “Many visitors choose to take the BART train

from San Francisco and have a limousine meet them at the rail station,”

says Chris Chandler, executive director of Livermore Valley Winegrowers

Association. “It can take them around the valley for lunch and wine tasting

and then back to the BART.” Staying overnight? There are also charming

downtown streets, golf courses, restaurants, bike paths—and the famous

Livermore Premium Outlets. (On September 27, the Outlets’ Sunset Sip

& Shop will feature wine tastings and store discounts.) Wente Vineyards

is leading the way in sustainable farming, and the Livermore Valley is so

diverse that, says Chandler, “Many varietals thrive here, including lean,

high-acid Sauvignon Blanc; rich, balanced Merlot; and deep, dark, dense

Petite Sirah… to name a few!”

ON The VerVeOnce Silicon Valley’s little secret, Livermore is emerging

as the wine country’s chicest new hot spot.

to eAt

Splurge: Like The French Laundry,

Christopher Kostow’s the restaurant at

meadowood has three Michelin stars. “Very

creative and delicious,” Colgin says, “but

different than The French Laundry.” (900

Meadowood lane, St. Helena, 707-967-

1205; therestaurantatmeadowood.com)

laid-back: Colgin is a huge fan of chef

Thomas Keller. She says of his Ad Hoc: “It’s

fun! I love that kind of dining: casual and

interactive.” Plus, there’s weekend brunch.

(6476 Washington St., Yountville, 707-944-

2487; adhocrestaurant.com)

On-tHe-gO bite: gott’s roadside. “I

make a luxurious wine, but one of the few

things I like to have it with is a burger.” (933

Main St., St. Helena, 707-963-3486;

gotts.com)

beSt Steak: “Press is fantastic. I love the

open barnlike look, and it has a great old-

California wine list.” (587 St. Helena Hwy.,

St. Helena, 707-967-0550; pressnapa

valley.com)

PremIer CruWinemaker Ann Colgin gives the scoop on

Napa’s very best food and drink offerings.

The barn at Phifer Pavitt, which serves as a tasting room and, sometimes, a meditation center, was built with 100-year-old redwood. It features a 1,000-pound tasting table made from a single fallen walnut tree.

lOcalS’ favOrite: “Archetype is a fun new

restaurant with an open, airy feel.” (1429 Main St.,

St. Helena, 707-968-9200; archetypenapa.com)

to Drink

WinerY WitH a Scene: “Darioush has a great

sense of life and is so hospitable. Visiting is a real

treat.” (4240 Silverado trail, napa, 707-257-2345;

darioush.com)

all-feMale caSt: “The women at

Spottswoode are very gracious hostesses.”

(1902 Madrona ave., St. Helena, 707-963-0134;

spottswoode.com)

One tO WatcH: “vineyard 7 & 8 is developing

beautifully and has a hot new wine maker.” (4028

Spring Mountain rd., St. Helena, 707-963-9425;

vineyard7and8.com)

tHe claSSic: “opus one has the most beautiful

barrel room in Napa Valley.” (7900 St. Helena Hwy.,

Oakville, 707-944-9442; opusonewinery.com)

beSt WHite: “Aubert makes a great Chardon-

nay.” (333 Silverado trail, calistoga, 707-942-

4333; aubertwines.com)

from left: Bok choy from Press; Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery Barrel Room;

alfresco dining at Ad Hoc.

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