Sewing Notes 17-1

8th Grade

Sewing Machine Parts1. Hand Wheel – manual control – moves take-up

lever and needle up and down

2. Thread Guides – hold the upper thread in place as it moves through the machine

3. Needle – feeds the thread that forms the upper part of the stitch

4. Stitch Length Control (Regulator) – controls the length of the stitches

5. Stitch Width Control – determines width of zigzag or decorative stitches

Sewing Machine Parts6. Presser Foot – holds fabric in place against the

feed dogs

7. Feed Dogs – moves the fabric during stitching – found in the throat plate

8. Throat Plate –seam allowance markings that help keep stitching straight

9. Spool Pin – holds thread spools during sewing

10. Bobbin – small spool that form the bottom part of the stitch

Sewing Machine Parts11. Bobbin Winding Spindle – hold bobbin while thread is

being wound on

12. Reverse – button that allows the machine to stitch backwards

13. Thread Tension Control – regulates tightness and looseness of the thread

14. Foot Feed – pedal that controls starting, stopping and speed of the machine

15. Bobbin Case – hold bobbin in place during sewing – under the throat plate

16. Presser Foot Lifter– raises and lowers the presser foot

Young Living 18-1

Preparing Your Pattern and Fabric

Page 504

1. Using a Guide Sheeta. a set of step-by-step instructions for

sewing a patternb. how to use a patternc. a diagram of the piecesd. Explanation of pattern markings

Basic Pattern Markings

1. Cutting Line2. Stitching Line3. Grain Line4. Dots5. Notches6. Place on Fold7. Dart

For specific information regarding each marking, refer to figure 18-1 on page 507

Guide Sheet Layout - Diagram of how pattern pieces

should be placed on the fabric

This allows for the most efficient use of fabric – creates the least amount of waste and ensures that all the pieces fit correctly

2. Preparing the Piecesa. Cut apart pattern

pieces, but DO NOT trim to exact measurements

b. Study each pieces to check for markings

1. Notches 2. Grain line3. Lengthen/shorten

3. Check Pattern Measurementsa. Check to see if the pattern fits your body

typeb. Make length and width alterations before

you cutc. To lengthen – use parallel lines labeled

“lengthen or shorten”d. Width – measure pattern pieces to

determine easee. Ease – the amount of fullness added to a

pattern for movement and comfort

4. Preparing the Fabrica. Some fabric must be pre-washed to

avoid shrinkingb. Check the grain of the fabric – the

direction in which the threads runa. Selvage – the tightly woven edge with no

visible loose threadsb. Raw edge – the unfinished edges that have

loose threadsc. Bias – the diagonal of the fabric

Preparing the Fabricc. To see if the fabric is on grain…

a. Fold fabric so the raw edges match togetherb. If the crosswise edges meet, the fabric is on

grain

Young Living 18-2

Starting to SewPage 510

1. Using Pattern Piecesa. Pinning

1. Fold fabric so the right sides are together2. Arrange pattern pieces according to layout3. Lengthwise grain line should be parallel to

selvage4. Do not cut any pieces until they are all pinned

in place5. Place pins diagonally to cutting line – keeps

fabric flat6. Place pins every 3-6 inches

1. Using Pattern Piecesb. Cutting

1. Place fabric flat on table, one hand holds fabric, the other cuts

2. Cut with long even strokes3. Cut around outside of notches4. Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until

you are ready to sew

2. Basic Sewing Skillsa. Seam

1. Lay 2 pieces of fabric together with right sides facing each other

2. Line up edges so they are even

3. Match all markings and notches

4. Pin pieces together perpendicular to the edge

2. Basic Sewing Skillsb. Stitching Straight Seams

1. Place fabric under presser foot and line up to seam allowance

2. Backstitch – stitching over ½ inch of a line of stitching at the beginning and end to lock threads in place

3. Guide fabric with both hands, but DO NOT push

4. Seam Allowance – fabric between seam line and raw edge

Thread Tension The tension of your thread makes a huge

impact on your final product. Stitches should be smooth and even.

Think you tension is wrong? Rethread the machine first!!!

Too Loose Too Tight Just Right

2. Basic Sewing Skillsc. Stitching Curved Seams

1. Trickier than straight seams2. Guide fabric so the curve is

smooth3. Keep stitching an even distance

from the edge

2. Basic Sewing Skillsd. Turning Corners/Pivoting

1. When coming to a corner, Stitch the last few stitches using the hand wheel

2. Lift presser foot and leave the needle in the fabric

3. Turn the fabric to the correct position and lower presser foot

2. Basic Sewing Skillse. Seam Finishing

1. Treatments used on the seam edges to prevent the fabric from raveling

2. Slight raveling - stitch ¼ inch from the edge then use pinking shears

3. Easy raveling - stitch a zigzag line near the edge of fabric

2. Basic Sewing Skillsf. Casings

1. Fabric tunnel made to enclose elastic or drawstrings

2. Fold Down Casinga. Fold garment edge ¼ inch, to the wrong sideb. Fold edge again to be ½ inch wider than the elasticc. Pin in place and stitch near the open edged. Leave a 2 inch opening to insert elastice. Insert elastic, stitch ends together, stitch openingf. Stitch in the Ditch ED

D

A&B&C

2. Basic Sewing Skillsg. Hems

1. Fold edge to the wrong side of the fabric at desire lengtha. Some fabric require a double fold to hide the

exposed raw edge

2. Pin in place and stitch close to the open edge

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