60" (150 cm) *AS/TT

SEW-IN INTERFACING B (Hair Canvas) PIECES: 14 & 15

25" (65 cm) **S/TS/P-M/M

25" (65 cm) **S/TL/G-XL/Tg

VEST C PIECES: 15,21 & 22

45,60" (115, 150 cm) *AS/TT

CONTRAST C (Upper Collar/Front Facing) PIECE: 23

45,60" (115, 150 cm) *AS/TT

SEW-IN INTERFACING C (Hair Canvas) PIECES: 15,22 &23

25" (65 cm) **AS/TT

LINING B,C PIECES: 16,17,18 & 19

45" (115 cm) *AS/TT

60" (150 cm) *S/TS/P

60" (150 cm) *S/TM/M-L/G-XL/Tg

19

181617

F/P

S/L

19

18 17

16

F/P

S/L

17 17

18

16

16

19

19

F/P

S/L

S/L

23

22

15

CF/

PT

S/L

S/L

23

F/P

S/L

22

21

15 F/P

S/L

14

14

15

S/L

S/L

14

15

15

14

S/L

S/L

14

20

21

15 F/P

S/L45" (115 cm) * S/T XL/Tg

60" (150 cm) *S/TS/P-M/M

60" (150 cm) *S/TL/G-XL/Tg

SEW-IN INTERFACING A (Hair Canvas) PIECES: 1,2,6 & 8

25" (65 cm) **AS/TT

LINING #1 A (Lt.wt. Satin) PIECES: 3,5,7,10 & 11

45" (115 cm) *AS/TT

60" (150 cm) *AS/TT

LINING #2 A (Jacket Tail-Med.wt. Satin) PIECE: 9

45" (115 cm) *AS/TT

60" (150 cm) *AS/TT

VEST B PIECES: 14,15,20 & 21

45" (115 cm) *AS/TT

14

20

21

15F/P

S/L

9

F/P

S/L

9

9

S/L

S/L

10

11

5

7

3

F/P

S/L

11

10 3

7

5F/P

S/L

6

1

1

8

82

S/L

S/L

9

6

1

4

12

7

13

5

8 82

F/P

S/L

9

5

1

4

6

12

78

8 813 2

F/P

S/L

4

12

87

8

5

6

13

2

*

9

1

F/P

S/L

F/P

S/L

S/L

S/L

S/L

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

FABRIC CUTTING LAYOUTSIndicates Bustline, Waistline, Hipline and/or Biceps. Measurementsrefer to circumference of Finished Garment (Body Measurement +Wearing Ease + Design Ease). Adjust Pattern if necessary.

Lines shown are CUTTING LINES, however, 5/8" (15mm) SEAMALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED, unless otherwise indicated. See SEWINGINFORMATION for seam allowance.

Find layout(s) by Garment/View, Fabric Width and Size. Layouts showapproximate position of pattern pieces; position may vary slightlyaccording to your pattern size.

All layouts are for with or without nap unless specified. For fabrics withnap, pile, shading or one-way design, use WITH NAP layout.

Position fabric as indicated on layout. If layout shows...

SINGLE THICKNESS—Place fabric right side up. (For Fur Pile fabrics,place pile side down.)

DOUBLE THICKNESS

WITH FOLD—Fold fabric right sides together.

WITHOUT FOLD—With right sides together, fold fabricCROSSWISE. Cut fold from selvage to selvage (A). Keepingright sides together, turn upper layer completely around so napruns in the same direction as lower layer.

GRAINLINE—Place on straight grain of fabric, keeping lineparallel to selvage or fold. ON "with nap" layout arrows shouldpoint in the same directions. (On Fur Pile fabrics, arrows pointin direction of pile.)

FOLD—Place edge indicated exactly along fold of fabric.NEVER cut on this line.

When pattern piece is shown like this...

• Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cutthis piece (A). Fold fabric and cut piece on fold, asshown (B).

Cut piece only once. Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric tocut this piece. Open fabric; cut piece on single layer.

Cut out all pieces along cutting line indicated for desired size using long,even scissor strokes, cutting notches outward.

Transfer all markings and lines of construction before removing pattern tis-sue. (Fur Pile fabrics, transfer markings to wrong side.)

NOTE: Broken-line boxes ( a! b !c! ) in layouts represent pieces cut bymeasurements provided.

JACKET A PIECES: 1,2,4,5,6,7,8,9,12 & 13

45" (115 cm) * S/T S/P-M/M-L/G

45" *3721 JACKET [A]

12

4

5

13

7

6

2

8 8

8 8

*

1

9

F/P

S/L

S/L

S/L S/L

S/L

BODY MEASUREMENTS

MENS'/HOMMESIZE/TAILLE XS/TP S/P M/M L/G XL/TGBust/Chest 30-32 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48Hip 31-33 35-37 39-41 43-45 47-49Height All Sizes Approx 5.10”T. de poitrine 76-81 87-92 97-102 107-112 117-122T. de Hanches 79-84 89-94 99-104 109-114 119-124Hauteur Toute Taille (environ 1.78cm)

1 2

3

4

5

8

12

11

67

910

13 14

15

20

1923

1817

16

21

22

3721

B

C A

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 1 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.

JACKET A1 Front 2 Welt 3 Pocket 4 Back 5 Side Back 6 Under Collar 7 Sleeve 8 Cuff 9 Lower Front And Back

10 Back Lining 11 Front Lining 12 Front Facing 13 Upper Collar

VEST B,C14 Front B 15 Welt 16 Pocket 17 Back 18 Back Belt 19 Front Lining 20 Front Facing B 21 Front Hem Facing 22 Front C 23 Upper Collar And Front Fac-

ing C

M U L T I - S I Z E D F O R C U S T O M F I T

SIZE (S M) L XL)WIDTHS Lower edgeVest B, C 36 40 44 48LENGTHS Finished back from base of your neckJacket A 43 43 1/2 44 44 1/2Vest B, C 23 1/4 23 3/4 24 1/4 24 3/4

M U L T I - T A I L L E S / A V O S M E S U R E S

TAILLE (P M) (G TG)LARGEURS à l’ourletGilet B, C 90 102 115 122LONGUEURS dos, votre nuque à l’ourletVeste A 109 110 115 115Gilet B, C 59 60.5 61.5 63

Under Collar

STAYSTITCH garment neck edgebetween large circles.

Pin INTERFACING to wrong side ofUNDER COLLAR (6). Trim corners diago-nally inside seam allowances, as shown.Baste.

Pin under collar to neck edge, clipping garment neck edge where nec-essary; baste. Stitch between large circles. Trim.

Sleeve

EASESTITCH upper edge of SLEEVE(7) between notches.

Stitch sleeve seam.

7

6

Turn pocket to inside, turning welt up;press.

Stitch pocket edges together,catching triangular ends whenstitching and keeping left frontfree.

On outside, EDGESTITCH ends of welt inplace.

Back

STAYSTITCH side edges of BACK (4) above double notches.

Stitch back sections together atcenter back.

Pin SIDE BACK (5) sections toback, clipping back where neces-sary. Stitch.

Stitch back and front sectionstogether at shoulders and sides.

5 5

4

REINFORCE left front along inner corners ofstitching lines, pivoting at small circles, asshown.

Baste INTERFACING to wrong side of WELT (2).Sew invisibly along foldline.

With right sides together, fold welt along foldline.Stitch ends. Trim.

Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together. Trim seamallowances to a scant 1/4”(6mm).

Pin welt to left front, placing seamline alongstitching line and matching symbols. Baste.

REINFORCE POCKET (3) along inner corners ofstitching lines, pivoting at small circles, as shown.

With right sides together, pin pocket toleft front, matching stitching lines andsymbols. Stitch along stitching lines, pivoting at small circles. Slash alongline between stitching, clipping diago-nally to small circles, being careful notto cut welt.

3

2

SEWING INFORMATION

5/8" (15mm) SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED,(unless otherwise indicated)

ILLUSTRATION SHADING KEY

Press as you sew. Press seams flat, then press open, unless otherwiseinstructed. Clip seam allowances, where necessary, so they lay flat.

GLOSSARY

Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in Sewing Instructions areexplained below.

EASESTITCH-Stitch along seamline, using long machine stltches. Pullthread ends when adjusting to fit.

NOTE: For sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches1/4” (6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control.

EDGESTITCH-Stitch close to finished edge or seam.

REINFORCE-Stitch along seamline where indicated in sewing instruc-tions, using small machine stitches.

SLIPSTITCH-Slide needle through a folded edge, then pick up a threadof underneath fabric.

STAYSTITCH-Stitch 1/8” (3mm) from seamline in seam allowance (usu-ally 1/2” (13mm) from raw edge).

UNDERSTITCH-Open out facing or underside of garment; stitch toseam allowance close to seam.

JACKET A

Front

Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of FRONT (1). Trim corners, as shown.Baste along seamlines, center front, dart lines and stitching lines.

Stitch dart in front. Slash to within 3”(7.5cm) ofend. Press open.

1 1

Notch outer curves

Clip inner

curvesTrim enclosed seams into layers Trim corners

Right Side Wrong Side Interfacing Lining Underlining

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 2 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.

STAYSTITCH outer edge of FRONT FACING (12)above notch, as shown.

Pin front facing and front lining together,clipping facing where necessary. Stitch,leaving open below small circle. Pressseam toward lining, pressing in remain-der of front seam allowance.

Stitch back lining to front facingand lining sections at shouldersand sides.

Turn in seam allowance on lower edge of front and back lining; press.

STAYSTITCH facing and lin-ing neck edge between largecircles, as shown.

12

Pin lower front and back to loweredge of jacket, placing darts at sideseams. Baste.

Lining, Front Facing and Upper Collar

Stitch BACK LINING (10) sectionstogether, as shown. Do not pressseam open. To make pleat in backlining, baste center back pleatlines together. Stitch along stitch-ing line, above small circle.

Press pleat toward right back.Baste across upper edge.

STAYSTITCH side edges ofback lining above double notch-es.

Pin side back LINING sections toback lining, clipping back liningwhere necessary. Stitch.

Stitch dart in FRONT LINING (11). Slash to within3”(7.5cm) of end. Press open.

11

5 5

10 10

Lower Front and Back

Stitch dart in LOWER FRONTAND BACK (9). Press towardcenter back.

Stitch lower front and backsections together at centerback, leaving open belowlarge circle.

Prepare lower front and back LINING in same manner as lower front andback section.

With right sides together, pin lining to lower front and back, leavingnotched edge open, breaking stitching at large circle at center back.Trim. UNDERSTITCH lining as far as possible.

Turn lining to inside; press. Baste raw edges together and along pleatlines.

To make pleats in lower front and back, on outside, crease along linesof small circles. Bring creases to lines of large circles; baste, through allthicknesses. Baste across upper raw edge. Press.

9 9 Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of two CUFF (8) sections; baste.(Remaining sections will be used as facings.)

Stitch ends of each cuff section together.

For facing, stitch one uninterfaced cuff sectionto each interfaced cuff section, leavingnotched edge open. Trim. UNDERSTITCH fac-ing.

Turn; press. Baste raw edges together.

Pin cuff to sleeve. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4”(6mm) away inseam allowance. Trim close to second stitching. Pressseam toward sleeve.

With right sides together, pin sleeve intoarmhole, matching symbols. Adjust ease;baste. Stitch. Stitch again 1/4”(6mm) awayin seam allowance. Trim close to stitching.Press seam allowances flat. Turn seamtoward sleeve.

(A) Try on garment for shoulder pad placement. Pin pad to garment,extending outer edge about 5/8”(15mm) beyond armhole

(B) Sew pad to shoulder; tack ends to armhole, as shown.

A B

8 8

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 3 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.

VEST B,C

NOTE: Illustrated for View B, unless otherwise indicated.

Front

View B: Pin INTERFACING to wrong side ofFRONT (14). Trim corners, as shown. Bastealong seamlines, center front, dart lines andstitching lines.

View C:

Pin INTERFACING to wrong side ofFRONT (22). Trim corners, as shown.Baste along seamlines, center front,dart lines and stitching lines.

REINFORCE inner corner of front, pivotingat small circle. Clip diagonally to small cir-cle.

Views B,C:

Stitch dart in front. Slash to within 3”(7.5cm) ofend. Press open.

22

14

Turn facing and lining down. SLIPSTITCH pressed edge over seam.Sew lining to front facing below small circle.

Tack sleeves at shouldersand underarms.

Finishing

SLIPSTITCH pressed edge of sleeve liningover seam.

Make buttonholes in left front at mark-ings.

Sew buttons to right front at markings.

Sew buttons to back at markings.

Pin upper collar, facing and lining to under collar and jacket. Stitch frontopening and lapel edges, stretching front to fit between large circlesending at upper large circles. Stitch collar edges together between largecircles, stretching under collar to fit.

Turn facing and lining to outside along seam. Pin to lower front andback. Stitch lower edges together, keeping lining free. Trim.

Turn facing and lining to inside, turning lower front and back down andcollar right side out; slip sleeve lining in place. Press.

Lift up facing and lining; sew neckseams together loosely by hand.

Pin UPPER COLLAR (13) to neck edge of facing and lining, matchinglarge circles and placing triangles at shoulder seams, clipping facingand lining where necessary. Baste. Stitch between large circles. Trim.

EASESTITCH upper edge ofsleeve LINING between notches.

Stitch sleeve lining seam.

Turn in 5/8”(1.5cm) on lower edge of sleeve lining;press.

With right sides together, pin sleevelining into lining armhole, matchingsymbols. Adjust ease; baste. Stitch.Stitch again 1/4”(6mm) away inseam allowance. Trim close tostitching. Press seam allowancesflat. Turn seam toward sleeve lining.

7

13

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 4 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.

Lining and Facings

For lining, stitch darts in remain-ing back section. Press towardcenter.

Stitch dart in FRONT LINING (19). Press toward center.

View B:

STAYSTITCH inner curved edge of FRONT FACING (20)below upper notch.

Stitch FRONT HEM FACING (21) to front facing. Press seam toward hem facing.

21

20

19

17

On outside, pin each beltto side edges of back,matching symbols andhaving raw edges even.Baste raw edges togetherand along stitching linesbetween small circles.

View B: Stitch back andfront sections together atshoulders.

View C:

Stitch front sections together at center back.

STAYSTITCH neck edge ofback.

Pin front and back together at shoulder and neck edges, clipping backneck edge where necessary. Stitch, pivoting at small circles. Trim neckseam. Press neck seam toward collar.

On outside, EDGESTITCH ends of welt inplace.

Back

Stitch darts in one BACK (17)section. Press toward center.(Remaining section will be usedas lining.)

Cut BACK BELT (18) along cutting line indicated on Pattern Tissue.

For right belt, fold longer back belt sectionalong foldline. Stitch long edges together.Stitch end without symbols in a 1/4”(6mm)seam. Trim.

For left belt, fold shorter back beltsection along foldline. Stitch, longedges together. Trim.

Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together.

Slip straight end of left back belt throughbar of buckle. Turn back along foldline,turning under 1/4”(6mm) on raw edge.Stitch in place, as shown, through allthicknesses. SLIPSTITCH side edges.

18

17

Baste INTERFACING to wrong side of WELT (15).Sew invisibly along foldline.

With right sides together, fold welt along foldline.Stitch ends. Trim.

Turn. Press. Baste raw edges together. Trim seamallowances to a scant 1/4”(6mm).

Pin welt to front, placing seamline along stitching line and matching symbols. Baste.

With right sides together, pin POCKET (16) to front, matching stitchinglines. Stitch along stitching lines, pivoting at small circles. Slash alongline between stitching, clipping diagonally to small circles, being carefulnot to cut welt.

Turn pocket to inside, turningwelt up; press.

Stitch pocket edges together, keepingfront free.

16

15

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 5 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.

Turn in seam allowance on side edges oflining. SLIPSTITCH edges together overseam, as shown.

SLIPSTITCH remainder of front lining tofront facing.

On outside, stitch belts inplace along basting, throughall thicknesses.

View B:

Make buttonholes in left frontat markings.

Sew buttons to right front atmarkings.

View C:

Make buttonholes in left front at markings.Make buttonholes in right front at upperand lower markings.

Sew buttons to fronts at markings.

On inside, sew buttons to left front facing at upper and lower markings.

View C: With right sides together, pin facing and lining to vest. Stitchlower, front opening, collar and side opening edges together, leavingopen above large circles at sides and stretching upper collar to fitbetween large circles, as shown. Stitch armhole edges together. Trim.

Turn lining to inside by pulling front sections through shoulders andboth out one side opening in back.

UNDERSTITCH lining at armhole as far as possible.

Starting 2”(5cm) above armhole seam andending at large circle, stitch back to front sec-tions at sides and lining edges together in onecontinuous seam, as shown.

Finishing

Sew front hem facing in place, catching onelayer of pocket when stitching.

Turn in 5/8”(1.5cm) on lower edge of front liningand place folded edge 5/8”(1.5cm) over rawedge of front hem facing; SLIPSTITCH. (Note: Apleat will form at lower edge for wearing ease.)

Pin front lining to uppercollar/front facing, matching sym-bols and clipping facing wherenecessary. Stitch, leaving openbelow small circle. Press seamtoward lining.

Stitch upper collar/frontfacing sections togetherat center back.

STAYSTITCH neck edge ofback lining.

Pin upper collar/front facing and lining sections to back lining togetherat shoulder and neck edges, clipping back neck edge where necessary.Stitch, pivoting at small ● ’s. Trim neck seam. Press neck seam towardupper collar.

Joining Lining and Side Seams

View B: With right sides together, pin facing and lining to vest. Stitchlower, front opening, neck and side opening edges together, leavingopen above large circles at sides, as shown. Stitch armhole edgestogether. Trim.

Pin front lining to front facing, matching sym-bols and clipping facing where necessary.Stitch, leaving open below small circle. Pressseam toward lining.

Stitch back lining to frontfacing and lining sectionsat shoulders.

View C:

Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of UPPERCOLLAR AND FRONT FACING (23). Trim cor-ners, as shown. Baste.

REINFORCE inner corner of uppercollar/front facing, pivoting at small circle.Clip diagonally to small circle.

STAYSTITCH inner curved edge of uppercollar/front facing below upper notch.

Stitch FRONT HEM FACING (21) to upper collar/front facing. Press seam toward hemfacing.

21

23

ENGLISH

3 7 2 1Page 6 (6 pages)

© The McCall Pattern Co., 2002. All Rights Reserved. •Printed in U.S.A.