seg awards abc level 3 diploma in bespoke cutting and...

D2151-C3 Issue 6.2

50089869 January 2020

SEG Awards ABC Level 3

Diploma in Bespoke Cutting

and Tailoring (NVQ)

Qualification Guidance

England

[50089869]

Wales

[C0002333]

1

About Us At the Skills and Education SEG Awards (ABC)1 we continually invest in

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employers and skills providers to enable individuals to achieve the skills

and knowledge needed to raise professional standards across our sectors.

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Sources of Additional Information

The ABC website www.ABCawards.co.uk provides access to a wide variety

of information.

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.

This document may be copied by approved centres for the purpose of

assessing learners. It may also be copied by learners for their own use.

1 ABC Awards is a brand of the Skills and Education Group Awards, a recognised awarding organisation and

part of the Skills and Education Group. Any reference to ABC Awards, its registered address, company or

charity number should be deemed to mean the Skills and Education Group Awards.

https://secure.abcawards.co.uk/ors/secure_login.asp

http://www.abcawards.co.uk/

2

Contents

Qualification Summary 3

Introduction 6

Aims 6

Target Group 6

Progression Opportunities 6

Unit Details 8

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL), Exemption and Credit Transfer 75

Certification 76

Glossary of Terms 77

This is a live document and as such will be updated when required. It is

the responsibility of the approved centre to ensure the most up-to-date

version of the Qualification Guide is in use. Any amendments will be

published on our website and centres are encouraged to check this site

regularly.

3

Qualification Structure and Content

ABC Awards Level 3 Diploma in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring (NVQ)

Qualifications and Pathways

Level 3 Diploma in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring (NVQ) (Cutting)

Level 3 Diploma in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring (NVQ) (Tailoring)

Regulated The qualifications, identified above, are all

regulated by Ofqual and Qualifications Wales

Assessment Internal assessment, internal and external

moderation

Grading Pass

Operational Start

Date 01/07/2010

Review Date 31/07/2023

ABC Sector Fashion and Textiles

Ofqual SSA Sector 4.2 Manufacturing Technologies

Stakeholder support UKFT

Contact See ABC website for the Centre Support Officer

responsible for these qualifications

4

Level 3 Diploma(s) in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring

Rules of Combination: Learners must achieve a minimum of 37 credits

and a maximum of 39 credits from one pathway. This must include 3

credits from the Mandatory unit. Learners must achieve a minimum of 34

credits at level 3 or above

Unit Unit Number Level Credit

Value

GLH

Mandatory Unit

Health, safety and security at work [K/502/1072] 2 3 20

Cutting Pathway

Prepare materials and trimmings

for bespoke tailoring [F/601/3831] 3 11 60

Lay patterns, mark-in and cut cloth

for bespoke tailoring

[L/601/383

3] 3 12 70

Construct patterns for bespoke

tailoring [R/601/3834] 3 12 60

Carry out bespoke selling [Y/601/3835] 3 11 50

Make handcraft/bespoke trousers

or skirt and waistcoat: basting [H/601/3840] 3 12 60

Tailoring Pathway

Carry out bespoke selling [Y/601/3835] 3 11 50


or skirt and waistcoat: basting [H/601/3840] 3 12 60


or skirts and waistcoat:

adjustments and pockets

[F/601/3845] 3 11 50


or skirts and waistcoat: completion

and finishing

[L/601/3847] 3 12 60

Make handcraft/bespoke coat:

baste making [Y/601/3849] 3 12 60


forward making [R/601/3851] 3 12 60


finishing and pressing [Y/601/3852] 3 12 60

If learners achieve credits from units of the same title (or linked titles) at

more than one level, they cannot count credits achieved from both units

towards the credit target of a qualification.

5

Qualification Aim D1. Confirm competence in an occupational role to

the standards required

Entry

Requirements

Age Range Pre 16 16 – 18 19 +

LARS Reference 50089869

Recommended

GLH2 180

Recommended

TQT3 370

Credit Value 37

Type of Funding

Available See LARS (Learning Aim Rates Service)

Qualification Fee /

Unit Fee See ABC web site for current fees and charges

Additional

Information

See ABC website for resources available for this

qualification

2 See Glossary of Terms 3 See Glossary of Terms

6

Qualification Overview

Introduction

The ABC Level 3 Diploma in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring (NVQ) has

been designed in response to the identified needs through research with

employers into skill requirements for the future.

The qualification will provide benefits to all key stakeholders including

employers, providers and learners by providing a progression opportunity

through educational and vocational means. It will provide learners with

the opportunity of enhancing their career progression and give them the

currency to enter further qualifications or employment.

Aims

The ABC Level 3 Diploma in Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring (NVQ) aims to

confirm competence in an occupational role to the standards required.

Target Group

This qualification is designed for those learners, aged 16+, who want to

be provided the opportunity to enhance their career progression and give

them the currency to enter further qualifications.

ABC expects approved centres to recruit with integrity on the basis of a

learner’s ability to contribute to and successfully complete all the

requirements of a unit(s) or the full qualification.

Progression Opportunities

This Level 3 qualification will enable progression primarily into a variety of

higher level programmes and any other qualifications that have been

identified strategically and mapped accordingly to the Apprenticeship

Framework.

This qualification will form part of an alternative route into higher

education and will encourage a wider range of learners to gain new skills

and be motivated to remain within the education, training and

employment sector.

Centres should be aware that Reasonable Adjustments which may be

permitted for assessment may in some instances limit a learner’s

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progression into the sector. Centres must, therefore, inform learners of

any limits their learning difficulty may impose on future progression.

Tutor/Assessor Requirements

We require those involved in the assessment process to be suitably

experienced and / or qualified. In general terms, this usually means that

the assessor is knowledgeable of the subject / occupational area to a level

above that which they are assessing.

Assessors should also be trained and qualified to assess or be working

towards appropriate qualifications.

Language

These specifications and associated assessment materials are in English

only.

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Unit Details

9

Health, Safety and Security at Work

Unit Reference

K/502/1072

Level

2

Credit Value

3

Guided Learning

Hours

20

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who take responsibility for their

own health, safety and security in the workplace, and

monitor the workplace for hazards. The job role

involves contributing to the safety and security in the

workplace, taking action in the event of an incident,

raising the alarm, following correct procedures for

shut down and evacuation, using emergency

equipment correctly and safely, and monitoring the

workplace for hazards

Learning

Outcomes

(1 to 3)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 3.2)

The learner can

1. Be able to work

safely

1.1 Take appropriate action in the event of fire,

emergencies or accidents

1.2 Identify where alarms, emergency exits, escape

routes, emergency equipment and assembly points

are located

1.3 Demonstrate safe and appropriate use of

emergency equipment

1.4 Discriminate between different alarm sounds

10

1.5 Comply with equipment operating procedures and

manufacturers’ instructions

1.6 Demonstrate safe handling and lifting techniques

1.7 Demonstrate correct use and maintenance of any

protective clothing and/or equipment

1.8 Comply with personal responsibilities under the

Health and Safety at Work Act / COSHH

1.9 Identify who the nominated first aiders are

2. Be able to monitor

the workplace for

hazards

2.1 Identify hazardous substances that are used in the

workplace and demonstrate methods of making them

safe or reducing their danger in the event of an

accident

1.2 Identify hazards posed by machinery that is used

in the workplace and demonstrate methods of making

safe or reducing their danger in the event of an

accident

2.3 Demonstrate how to handle and store hazardous

substances including debris

2.4 Demonstrate how to store materials and

equipment

2.5 Explain what the most likely accidents and

emergencies in the workplace are and how to deal

with them

2.6 Comply with personal responsibilities under the

COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to Health)

3. Be able to

contribute to

workplace security

3.1 Outline and comply with the organisation’s rules,

codes, guidelines and standards relating to security

3.2 Explain how to deal with loss of property

11

Mapping to National Occupational Standards

This unit relates to Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring NOS January 2012 Unit

HS1

12

Supporting Unit Information

K/502/1072 Health, safety and security at work – Level 2

Indicative Content

Performance Statements

take action in the event of fire, emergencies or accidents

monitor the workplace for hazards

recognise and rectify potential hazards in the workplace

handle and store hazardous substances safely

use and maintain protective clothing and/or equipment

handle, move and store waste and debris safely

recognise and deal with malfunctions in machinery and equipment

contribute to maintaining the security of the workplace and its contents

communicate effectively with colleagues and customers

Knowledge and Understanding

emergency alerts and procedures

what hazardous substances are used in the workplace and methods of

making safe or reducing their danger in the event of an accident

what the most likely accidents and emergencies in the workplace are

and how to deal with them

who the nominated first aiders are

how to deal with loss of property

equipment manufacturers instructions and operating procedures

handling and lifting techniques

environmental requirements

the organisation’s rules, codes, guidelines and standards relating to

health, safety and security

responsibilities under the health and safety at work act and COSHH

(Control of Substances Hazardous to Health)

Skills

identifying the location and type of incident

following emergency procedures

using emergency equipment

storing materials and equipment

identifying and reporting malfunctions in machinery and equipment and

correct them if possible

identifying and reporting service malfunctions and chemical leaks

13

completing forms, records, reports and other documentation

complying with written instructions

Teaching Strategies And Learning Activities

The delivery of this unit needs to be closely linked with the workplace and

assessment of this unit must take place in the workplace.

Centres should adopt a delivery approach which supports the development

of their particular learners. The aims and aspirations of all learners,

including those with identified special needs, including learning

difficulties/disabilities, should be considered and appropriate support

mechanisms put in place.

It is hoped that opportunities provided by the unit will be fully used to

introduce related and general / key skills /functional skills studies and

activities to show the development of Personal Learning and Thinking

Skills.

Methods Of Assessment

This unit will be internally assessed, internally and externally moderated

via a learner’s portfolio and other related evidence, against the unit

outcomes and assessment criteria.

Assessment needs to take place in a workplace environment where

learners can demonstrate competence.

Minimum requirements when assessing this unit

ABC expects that staff will be appropriately qualified to assess learners

against the outcomes and criteria within the units. Generally teaching staff

should be qualified and/or vocationally experienced to at least a level

above that which they are teaching.

Evidence Of Achievement

All learners must complete a portfolio of evidence that shows achievement

of all the relevant learning outcomes and assessment criteria.

Centres will need to devise assessment tasks which should be practical

wherever possible. These tasks could be put together into one overarching

14

assignment for the unit, or be a series of smaller separate tasks.

Evidence presented is not prescribed for each learning outcome. It could

typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports

Oral / written questions and answers

Reports / notes

Worksheets / workbooks

Witness statements

Taped evidence (video or audio)

Photographic evidence

Case studies / assignments

Interview / discussion

This is not an exhaustive list and learners should be encouraged to develop

the most appropriate evidence to demonstrate their achievement of the

learning outcomes and assessment criteria.

All evidence must be clearly signposted and made available for the external

moderator upon request.

For more information on assessment and evidence collection, please refer

to the ABC Awards web site.

Additional Information

All learners must complete a Declaration of Authenticity and include it in

their portfolio. The Declaration of Authenticity can be found on the ABC

web site www.abcawards.co.uk under Fashion and Textiles.


15

Prepare Materials and Trimmings For Bespoke Tailoring

Unit Reference

F/601/3831

Level

3

Credit Value

11

Guided Learning

Hours

60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who prepare materials and

trimmings for the cutting process. The job role

involves preparing materials and trimmings ready

for the cutting process

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 6)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 6.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the

appearance, qualities

and characteristics of

linings and

interlinings

1.1 Identify the names, appearance, qualities and

characteristics of various

linings

interlinings

sewings

trimmings

1.2 Explain the methods of measuring or

calculating the quantities of linings, sewings and

other trimmings

2. Select the correct

quality of linings,

sewings, and other

trimmings required in

relation to the cloth

and type of garment

2.1 Identify and select fabric, linings and

interlinings appropriate to

pair of trousers or skirt

waistcoat

2.2 Measure or calculate the quantity of fabrics,

linings and interlinings for each chosen garments in

16

2.3 Select the sewings and other trimmings

appropriate to each garment

2.4 Cut the lengths of fabrics, linings and

interlinings for each garment

3. Make up garment

bundles

3.1 Make up garment bundles for each chosen

garments in 1.1 using the appropriate job ticket

system

3.2 Ensure the correct sewings and other

trimmings are included

4. Understand the

companies stock

control systems

4.1 Analyse company stock control systems, to

include

job ticket systems

trimmings stock control systems

suppliers names, addresses, delivery times,

reliability and prices

buying policies

5. Implement

company stock

control systems

5.1 Make accurate estimates of fabrics and

materials

5.2 Check purchase invoices on receipt of delivery

6. Use safe working

practices that

conform to current

legislative

requirements and

codes of practice

6.1 Use working practices that are safe and

conform to current legislative requirements and

codes of practice



C1

17


F/601/3831 Prepare materials and trimmings for bespoke tailoring – Level

3

Indicative Content


select the linings and interlinings appropriate to each garment

make accurate estimates of fabrics and materials

make accurate and detailed measurements and calculations

interpret information correctly

cut the lengths of linings and interlinings for each garment using

trimmers/shears safely

select the sewings and other trimmings appropriate to each garment

add the sewings and other trimmings to each garment

match colours

deal with faults in linings and other trimmings

make up and label/ticket garment bundles using the internal job

ticket system

control stock in accordance with the internal stock control systems

check purchase invoices on receipt of deliveries



the company’s quality standards

the names, appearance, qualities and characteristics of the various

linings, interlinings, sewings and other trimmings

the methods of measuring or calculating the quantities of linings,

sewings and other trimmings

stock control systems

suppliers names, addresses, delivery times, reliability and prices

the companies buying policies

the company’s relevant rules, codes, systems, procedures and

guidelines

health and safety in the workplace

Skills

estimating and/or measuring the quantities of linings, interlinings,

sewings and other trimmings required for each job according to the

style, size and type of garment

18

selecting the correct quality of linings, sewings and other trimmings

required in relation to the cloth and type of garment

recognising faults in fabrics, trimmings and linings

bundling and ticketing garments

stock control techniques










introduce related and general / key skills / functional skills studies and


Skills.















19





typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















20

Lay Patterns, Mark-In and Cut Cloth for Bespoke

Tailoring

Unit Reference

L/601/3833

Level

3

Credit Value

12

Guided Learning

Hours

70

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who lay the pattern, mark-in

and cut cloth in the tailoring process. The job role

involves laying the patterns, marking-in and

cutting cloth

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 5)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 5.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the

main principles of

garment construction

1.1 Evaluate the principles of garment construction

in a range of garments, addressing

garment parts

position of parts

pockets, collars, and trouser waist finishes

inlays, cuts, darts and wedges

2. Understand how to

lay patterns to ensure

an economic costing

2.1 Explain notations on a garment ticket that

determine the fitting required

2.2 Analyse cloth characteristics and behaviour and

identify their effect on the lay / cutting process and

the finished garment, including

tension

relaxation

distortion

21

2.3 Evaluate which type of lay plan to be used for

the chosen fabric

2.4 Classify types of cloth fault and potential

effects on finished garments

2.5 Explain acceptable lay positions accounting for

cloth faults

3. Develop a lay plan

and mark around

patterns onto cloth

3.1 Check cloth against job ticket, ensuring cloth is

clean, steam cloth if required

3.2 Lay cloth length, ensuring cloth is positioned

true and flat on the cutting table

3.3 Inspect cloth for faults and measure and mark

inlay allowances if applicable

3.4 Position the pattern pieces to ensure grain of

cloth appears correctly on the finished garment

3.5 Position the pattern pieces and/or locate inlays

to achieve economic use of material and to meet

company standards

3.6 Mark in pattern pieces using chalk to produce

clear accurate lines and cut cloth as marked

4. Be able to cut cloth

using shears

4.1 Cut cloth as marked ensuring meeting

company standards

5. Use safe working

practices that

conform to current

legislative

requirements and

codes of practice



codes of practice



C2

22


L/601/3833 Lay patterns, mark-in and cut cloth for bespoke tailoring –

Level 3

Indicative Content


place the patterns to ensure checks/stripes appear correctly on the

finished garment

interpret measures and notations given on the job ticket

prepare and lay out cloth for cutting

identify cloth faults and position the lay accounting for the faults

found

lay the pattern economically to company standards

mark round patterns onto cloth, using chalk to produce clear,

accurate lines

measure, position and/or locate inlay allowances

position, mark in and cut pockets and pocket cuts accurately

position and mark in darts accurately

use shears safely to cut cloth as marked



types of cloth faults and their effect on finished garments

economical lays

notations on garment ticket that determine the fitting required

the principles of garment construction in a range of garments:

o garment parts

o position of parts

o pockets, collars, and trouser waist finishes

o inlays, cuts, darts and pattern manipulation

cloth characteristics and behaviour

o tension

o relaxation

o distortion

making accurate estimates of fabric and materials

making accurate and detailed measurements and calculations


guidelines


23

Skills

make the lay

recognise which cloths are to be cut one way

recognise cloth faults and judge severity

position of patterns in relation to the grain of cloth

place patterns so that stripes and checks appear correctly on finished

garment

handle cloth and prepare for cutting

handle and maintain shears safely

handle cloth correctly when marking and cutting












Skills.











24









typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















25

Construct Patterns For Bespoke Tailoring

Unit Reference

R/601/3834

Level

3

Credit Value

12

Guided Learning

Hours

60

Unit Summary This unit is for those who construct patterns. The

job role involves constructing garment patterns

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 4)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 4.1)

The learner can

1. Understand how to

draft basic patterns

from individual

measures

1.1 Analyse the procedures used to manufacture

bespoke garments, addressing

how garments are put together

potential problems encountered

shrinking and stretching

1.2 Analyse the procedures in bespoke pattern

drafting and construction in relation to style,

addressing

block patterns

figure variations

construction of bespoke garments

2. Be able to adapt

basic block patterns

to individual

measurements

2.1 Demonstrate bespoke pattern drafting

techniques for

a pair of trousers or skirt

a waistcoat

2.2 Use pattern cutting shears to cut the pattern

3. Be able to apply

direct pattern drafting

3.1 Interpret bespoke measurements for the

production of cloth pattern pieces

26

to cloth

3.2 Draft bespoke patterns for a pair of trousers or

a skirt and a waistcoat from a block pattern onto

cloth including

producing sharp lines

achieving line and balance

marking figurations

3.3 Use cloth cutting shears to cut the cloth as

marked

4. Use safe working

practices that

conform to current

legislative

requirements and

codes of practice



codes of practice



C4

27


R/601/3834 Construct patterns for bespoke tailoring – Level 3

Indicative Content


draft basic patterns from individual measures

produce garment patterns by adapting block patterns

apply direct drafting to cloth economically

indicate mark lines, balance and figurations clearly

use pattern cutting shears safely



making garments:

o how garments are put together

o problems encountered

o shrinking and stretching

o garment patterns drafting and construction

o how patterns relate to the figure

understand the relevance and application of the given measurements

block patterns

figure variations

construction of specialised garments

pattern drafting systems

fabric construction

relevant quality standards


guidelines


Skills

drafting basic patterns for garments

o using graduated square

o producing sharp lines

o achieving line and balance

o marking figurations

o using block patterns

o picturing the made up garment

economical direct drafting

28














Skills.

















29



typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















30

Carry Out Bespoke Selling

Unit Reference

Y/601/3835

Level

3

Credit Value

11

Guided Learning

Hours

50

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who deal with bespoke

tailored garment customers and sell bespoke

tailored garments

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 4)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 4.3)

The learner can

1. Understand

bespoke tailored style

ranges and fashion

trends

1.1 Analyse a range of bespoke tailored styles and

explain

types and features of style

types and features of cloth

suitable garment users

1.2 Identify current fashion trends within the

bespoke tailoring industry

2. Understand

bespoke selling

techniques

2.1 Explain the principles of selling techniques in

bespoke tailoring, including

dealing with bespoke tailored garment

customers

company systems and procedures

relevant quality standards related to the

service

communication methods

recording requests and information

31

3. Initiate sale,

advice and identify

customer

requirements

3.1 Deal with customers effectively and politely,

inspiring the customer’s confidence and obtain

customer details

customer requirements

3.2 Interpret customer requirements and

communicate and advise clearly on

style selection

cloth selection

suitability of style in relation to the

customer’s figure, character and personality

3.3 Confirm customers’ requirements relating to

style selection

cloth selection

3.4 Take accurate detailed measurements and

calculations

3.5 Make accurate estimates of fabrics and

materials

3.6 Record all requests and information accurately

and communicate to colleagues appropriately

3. Complete bespoke

tailored garment sale

4.1 Confirm that patterns and garments are of the

style and fit agreed with the customer

4.2 Recognise and confirm faults and take

appropriate action relating to

garment make

garment fit

garment finish

4.3 Record all customer requirements accurately

and communicate to colleagues appropriately



CandT1

32


Y/601/3835 Carry out bespoke selling – Level 3

Indicative Content


obtain and record details of customers’ requirements

discuss and advise on style and selection of cloth

make accurate estimates of fabric and materials


ensure that patterns and garments are of the style and fit agreed

with the customer

initiate, follow through, and complete bespoke sales

communicate effectively, politely and clearly with customers and

colleagues


the comprehensive range of styles and suitability of style to customer

fashion trends

types and features of cloths, and suitability to garment uses

garment making techniques

how to understand and deal with customers

the company’s relevant quality standards


guidelines


Skills

selling and customer service techniques in bespoke tailoring

picturing the garment in relation to the customer’s figure, character

and personality

inspiring the customer’s confidence






33







Skills.



















typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


34

Witness statements

















35

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Trousers Or Skirt And

Waistcoat: Basting

Unit Reference

H/601/3840

Level

3

Credit Value

12

Guided Learning

Hours

60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who baste trousers,

waistcoats or skirts in bespoke tailoring. The job

role involves preparing a baste and using hand and

machine sewing skills and techniques

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 7)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 7.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the

construction, qualities


cloth used in the

production of bespoke

tailored garments

1.1 Analyse cloth construction, characteristics and

behaviour that effect the finished garment, to

include

tension

relaxation

distortion

faults

1.2 Select appropriate cloth for


a waistcoat

2. Understand the

main principles of

garment construction

used in the


tailored garments

2.1 Evaluate the principles of garment construction

including garment parts and figure variations when

producing


a waistcoat

36

3. Understand the

basic principles of

hand and machine

sewing skills and

techniques used in

the production of

bespoke tailored

garments

3.1 Evaluate a range of hand and machine stitches

and explain their appropriate use in the production

of bespoke tailored garments

4. Understand and

utilise machinery

used for the


tailored garments

4.1 Analysis and select appropriate specialist

equipment for the production of bespoke tailored

garments

4.2 Use equipment in accordance with operating

procedures and manufacturers’ instructions

4.3 Identify common faults with equipment and

how they can be rectified

4.4 Take appropriate action when problems are

identified

5. Be able to apply

hand and machine

stitching / baste

5.2 Baste a pair of trousers or a skirt and a

waistcoat using an appropriate range of stitches

by machine

by hand

5.3 Make bands and pleats appropriate to


a waistcoat

6. Use safe working

practices that

conform to current

legislative

requirements and

codes of practice



codes of practice



T1

37


H/601/3840 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers or skirt and waistcoat:

basting – Level 3

Indicative Content


baste trousers, waistcoats or skirts

hand sew a range of stitches

machine sew a range of seams

control and maintain a sewing machine

identify cloth faults

identify garment parts

make bands and pleats

complete canvassing processes

use scissors/snips/shears safely

use the iron safely



the appropriate use of a range of hand and machine stitches

the machinery, parts and equipment

fabric construction

the effect of cloth faults on the finished garment

customer requirements and ticket notifications

how stripes and checks should fall (collars, lapels and pockets)

figure variations

cloth characteristics and behavior including tension, relaxation and

distortion



guidelines


Skills

Hand sewing:

Threading and sewing techniques

threading frames and needles

using the needle and thimble

ten pick-ups and needle point control

38

needle point position

sewing with cotton

stitches

mark stitching

backstitching/half backstitch

bar tacks

hemming stitch

padding stitch

basting stitch

felling stitch

cross stitch

serging stitch

side stitch

prick stitch

Machine sewing:

Machine settings

stitch lengths

tension adjustments

threading the machine

threading needles

threading the machine including pull through

changing the spool and the needle

fixing and setting the guide

machine control

thread control

guiding and stopping guiding a needle down a straight line

sewing various lengths and stopping at fixed points

sewing in bursts

knee/ hand control

machine sewing and trimming seams

sewing centre parallel lines including zigzag, and including with

thread

sewing chain cut threads

sewing and back tacking

back tacking edge

sewing a line in single ply and double ply

sewing a seam in cloth

sewing back tack in cloth (on edge)

sewing seam and back tacking

ripping out seam sewing

39

matching checked and striped cloth

scissor cuts

machine maintenance

cleaning the machine

Canvassing

canvas foreparts

trim canvas and scye and turn in

mark pockets












Skills.












40



of all the relevant learning outcomes and assessment criteria





typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















41

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Trousers or Skirts, and

Waistcoat: Adjustments and Pockets

Unit Reference

F/601/3845

Level

3

Credit Value

11

Guided Learning Hours

50

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who make adjustments

and insert trouser, waistcoat or skirt pockets in

bespoke tailoring. The job role involves putting

in leg linings, constructing pockets, adding

facings, making pleats and godets and

matching flared and biased seams

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 5)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 5.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the

construction, qualities


cloth used in the


tailored garments

1.1 Analyse cloth construction, characteristics

and behaviour that effect the finished garment

to include

tension

relaxation

distortion

faults

shrinking and stretch

2. Understand the main

principles of garment

construction used in the


tailored garments

2.1 Evaluate and explain the construction


a waistcoat

3. Understand and apply

the company’s systems

quality standards and

3.1 Apply working practices that meet and

adhere to the company’s quality standards and

procedures

42

procedures

3.2 Analyse the cut garment parts and job

ticket and explain the

re-cut process

meaning of measures and notations on

the job ticket

4. Be able to apply the

principles of sewing skills

and techniques

4.1 Demonstrate a variety of sewing skills and

techniques related to the production of a pair

of trousers or skirt and a waistcoat, including

insertion of leg/skirt linings

pockets construction

waistcoat front edges and fasten facings

trouser/ skirt pleats and staying

re-basting

5. Use safe working

practices that conform to

current legislative

requirements and codes

of practice



codes of practice



T2

43


F/601/3845 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers or skirts, and waistcoat:

adjustments and pockets – Level 3

Indicative Content


put in leg linings

cut, make and attach a variety of pockets, facings, pleats and staying

press garment parts

interpret the meaning of measures and notations on the job ticket

re-baste




the principles of garment construction including:

o garment parts for various garments

o position of parts in trousers, waistcoats or skirts

o pocket finishes

o inlays, cuts, darts and wedges, and pleats

figure variations

construction of leg and skirt garments


the company’s rules, codes, systems, procedures and guidelines


Skills

checking measurements

thread-marking

checking ‘dress'

cutting, making, inserting;

o facings

o pockets

o waistbands

o side straps

o fly button

o catch and bearer

o pleats

o stays

44

o curtains and waist-band linings

o lining for fly and button-catch

o bands

basting in fork lining and pocket stays

cutting extra fittings according to style

serging cut edges

match seams

press

o darts and pleats – top side

o side pocket jettings and facings

o press darts – underside


make accurate and detailed measurements




Centres should adopt a delivery approach which supports the development of

their particular learners. The aims and aspirations of all learners, including those

with identified special needs, including learning difficulties/disabilities, should be

considered and appropriate support mechanisms put in place.




Skills.











45




of all the relevant learning outcomes and assessment criteria





typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















46

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Trousers, Or Skirt And

Waistcoat: Completion And Finishing

Unit Reference

L/601/3847

Level

3

Credit Value

12

Guided Learning

Hours

60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who complete, press and finish

trousers, waistcoats or skirts in bespoke tailoring. The

job role involves inserting zips and button closures,

closing side seams, putting on waist bands, closing

trousers/skirts and waistcoats, final finishing and

pressing

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 8)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 8.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the

construction and

suitable applications

of cloth used in the


tailored garments

1.1 Analyse a variety of fabrics and identify suitable

cloths and applications for the production of


a waistcoat

2. Understand the

application of suitable

threads and

interfacings

2.1 Analyse and identify appropriate threads,

interfacings and pressing techniques used in the

production of


a waistcoat

3. Understand the

application of suitable

and pressing and

finishing techniques

3.1 Analysis and identify appropriate pressing and

finishing techniques used in the production of


a waistcoat

47

4. Understand the

principles of sewing

skills and techniques

used the production of

bespoke tailored

garments

4.1 Evaluate and explain the principles of sewing skills

and techniques used in the production of a pair of

trousers or skirt and a waistcoat, including

a range of seams

darts

zips

hand stitches

5. Be able to apply

the principles of

sewing skills and

techniques used in the


tailored garments

5.1 Demonstrate a variety of sewing skills and

techniques used in the production of a pair of trouser

or skirt and waistcoat, including

hand and machine stitching

buttons attach

zip insertion (standard and hidden zips)

complete pockets and necessary adjustments

sew and insert linings

close trousers or skirt

blind stitch hem of skirt or trouser bottoms

baste and fell dress braid

baste in and sew waistcoat back, lining and back

straps

stay front scyes of waistcoat

6. Be able to apply

the principles of

pressing and finishing

techniques

6.1 Demonstrate a variety of pressing and finishing

techniques used in the production of bespoke tailored

garments and complete final finish and final pressing of


a waistcoat

7. Understand the

company’s systems

quality standards and

procedures

7.1 Apply working practices that meet and adhere to

the company’s quality standards and procedures

8. Use safe working

practices that conform

to current legislative

requirements and

codes of practice

8.1 Use working practices that are safe and conform to

current legislative requirements and codes of practice


This unit relates to Bespoke Cutting and Tailoring NOS January 2012 Unit T3

48


L/601/3847 Make handcraft/bespoke trousers, or skirt and waistcoat:

completion and finishing – Level 3

Indicative Content


hand sew a variety of garment parts

machine sew/ overlock a variety of garment parts

check waist and inside leg measurements

make up fly and button holes,

add buttons and adjustment buckles

complete pockets and adjustments

sew linings

make and attach extra fittings as required

baste in waistcoat back, lining and back straps

stay front scyes of waistcoat

close trousers and skirts

blind stitch hem of skirt and trouser bottoms

baste and fell dress braid

complete final finishing, check and press



a variety of fabrics and their suitable applications to construction

the application of suitable threads and interfacing for chosen fabrics

the principles of sewing

the range and application of seams, darts, zips and hand stitches

making accurate estimates of fabrics and materials

making accurate and detailed measurements



guidelines


Skills

Hand stitch:

fly to top-side and finish button-catch

front edges of waistcoat

pleats of skirt as required and around zip

49

back stitch seat seam from inside leg to fly

the seat-seam

double tacks at side pockets

‘D’ tacks at hip and cash pockets

side-straps or elastic at back

pocket bags

curtain linings and finish side pockets

triangular tack at bottom of fly

Machine sewing:

machine darts

button-catch to topside

fly lining to topside

side pocket facings

bands

pocket bags

insert zips

side-seams

waist-bands

waist-bands to trousers

hip pockets

back lining to waistcoat

skirt linings and insert

inside leg seams

hip pocket

in cash pocket facings

extra fittings according to style

Finishing and pressing:

press open side-seams

press open inside-leg seam

press open waist-band seam

press open fly and button-catch seam

shrink leg shape

press open jetting seams in hip pocket

press side pockets

press the tops and seat seams

press linings and pocket bags

press the bottoms

press creases and legs

press whole garment

check trousers for ‘gloss’

50












Skills.


















51


typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements

















52

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Coat: Baste Making

Unit Reference

Y/601/3849

Level

3

Credit Value

12


60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who plain baste and

pocket baste a coat in bespoke tailoring. The

job role involves preparing a baste, marking

stitching, preparing a canvas, under-canvasing

and liaising with cutter, sewing in pockets,

basting foreparts back onto canvas and cutting

through for pockets

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 7)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 7.1)

The learner can

1. Understand the basic

principles of hand and

machine sewing skills and



coats

1.1 Evaluate a range of hand stitches and

explain their appropriate use in the production

of bespoke coat making





coats

2.1 Evaluate the principles of bespoke coat

construction, including

how the garment is assembled


figure variations


3. Understand and utilise

machinery used for the

3.1 Analyse and select appropriate equipment

for the production of bespoke coats, including

53


tailored garments

specialist machinery

needle and thread techniques

scissors, shear

iron

sewing machines

3.2 Use equipment in accordance with

operating procedures and manufacturers’

instructions

3.3 Identify common faults with equipment and

how they can be rectified

3.4 Explain sewing machine care, maintenance

procedures appropriate action when problems

are identified

4. Be able to prepare

bespoke coat for

production

4.1 Prepare coat components for production,

including

pad canvas

under canvas foreparts

shrink and mould chest

4.2 Cut linings and canvas, including

body and sleeve linings

body canvas to rough shape

chest pieces

flaps in all styles

patch pockets

pocketing

stays

jetting

welts

4.3 Cut under collar melton and canvas

4.4 Cut and shape facings

5. Be able to sew and

press main components

of a bespoke coat

5.1 Demonstrate the safe use of industrial

machinery and equipment

54

5.2 Sew and press components to the quality

standards required and in the correct

sequence, including

forepart darts and centre back

centre back including centre vents

stretch blades

cut and insert out breast welt plain and

matching

attach stays

hand/machine tack welt

attach forepart lining to facing

baste front edges and hems

5.3 Identify and summarise issues and liaise

with cutter if appropriate

6. Be able to position

insert/attach sew and

press the pockets of a

bespoke coat

6.1 Sew and press pocket components to the

quality standards required and in the correct

sequence, including

make flaps in desired style

insert jetted pockets (straight, crescent

and slanted) in plain and matching

insert flaps

insert in breast and ticket pockets

insert hare pocket tab and button

make and attach patch pockets

make inverted pleat pockets

make box pleat patch pockets

7. Use safe working


current legislative

requirements and codes

of practice



codes of practice



T4

55


Y/601/3849 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: baste making – Level 3

Indicative Content


prepare and pad canvas

undercanvas foreparts

pad lapels

shrink and mould chest

cut body and sleeve linings, body canvas to rough shape, chest pieces,

flaps in all styles, patch pockets, pocketing, stays, jetting and welts

cut under collar melton and canvas

make undercollar and baste on

draw collars

cut and shape facings

sew up forepart darts and centre back

sew and press centre back including centre vents

stretch blades

baste side seams and shoulders

cut and insert out breast welt plain and matching

attach stays

hand tack welt

make and insert flaps in desired style

insert jetted pockets (straight, crescent and slanted) in plain and

matching

attach forepart lining to facing

insert in breast and ticket pockets

liaise with cutter, returning garment to cutter

use needle and thimble whilst sitting and standing

use scissors, shears and iron safely

use, control and maintain a sewing machine

communicate effectively with colleagues


stitches, including

o basting stitch

o felling stitch

o cross stitch

o bartacks

56

o backstitch

o half backstitch

o hemming stitch

o serging stitch

o side stitch

o prick stitch

o padding stitch



figure variations





the company’s relevant systems, procedures rules, codes and guidelines


Skills

Hand sewing:






sewing with cotton

Stitches

mark stitching


bar tacks

hemming stitch

padding stitch

basting stitch

felling stitch

cross stitch

serging stitch

side stitch

prick stitch

Machine sewing:

Machine settings

stitch lengths

57

tension adjustments

Threading the machine

threading needles




Machine control

thread control



sewing in bursts

knee/ hand control

Machine sewing and trimming seams

sewing centre parallel lines including zigzag, and including with thread



back tacking edge







scissor cuts

Machine maintenance






their particular learners. The aims and aspirations of all learners, including

those with identified special needs, including learning difficulties/disabilities,

should be considered and appropriate support mechanisms put in place.



activities to show the development of Personal Learning and Thinking Skills.

58


This unit will be internally assessed, internally and externally moderated via a

learner’s portfolio and other related evidence, against the unit outcomes and

assessment criteria.

Assessment needs to take place in a workplace environment where learners

can demonstrate competence.


ABC expects that staff will be appropriately qualified to assess learners against

the outcomes and criteria within the units. Generally teaching staff should be

qualified and/or vocationally experienced to at least a level above that which

they are teaching.


All learners must complete a portfolio of evidence that shows achievement of

all the relevant learning outcomes and assessment criteria





typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements








59



For more information on assessment and evidence collection, please refer to

the ABC Awards web site.


All learners must complete a Declaration of Authenticity and include it in their

portfolio. The Declaration of Authenticity can be found on the ABC web site

www.abcawards.co.uk under Fashion and Textiles.


60

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Coat: Forward Making

Unit Reference

R/601/3851

Level

3

Credit Value

12


60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who forward make a

coat in bespoke tailoring. The job role

involves, putting the facings on, putting the

fore-part linings in, putting the back in,

making up sleeves and basting on

undercollar

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 7)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 7.1)

The learner can





production of bespoke coats

1.1 Evaluate a range of hand and machine

stitches and explain their appropriate use in

the production of bespoke coat making









figure variations




tailored garments

3.1 Analyse and select appropriate

equipment for the production of bespoke

coats, including



scissors, shear

iron

sewing machines

61



instructions

3.3 Identify common faults with equipment

and how they can be rectified

3.4 Explain sewing machine care,

maintenance procedures appropriate action

when problems are identified

4. Be able to apply facings

on to a bespoke tailored

coat



sequence, including

pad lapels

apply canvas on edges

baste and fell tapes on edges

baste on facings, press and machine

press open edges and turn out

baste out edges

lash facings

5. Be able to attach fore-

part linings and the back of

a bespoke tailored coat



sequence, including

attach back lining to back

close side seams

mark bottom and tack

close lining on side seam

making vents

baste on undercollar

6. Be able to make up the

sleeves of a bespoke

tailored coat



sequence, including

sew forearm seam and press

cuff canvas insertion

vent making and tacking

machine seam sleeve lining

baste in sleeve linings

hind seam closing and press

62

make half turnback cuff plain and

matching

make full turnback cuff

7. Use safe working


current legislative

requirements and codes of

practice


conform to current legislative requirements

and codes of practice



T5

63


R/601/3851 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: forward making – Level 3

Indicative Content


attach canvas on edges

baste and fell tapes on edges

baste on facings, press and machine

press open edges and turn out

baste out edges

attach facings

attach back lining to back

turn in side seams and lining

close side seams

mark bottom and tack

turn up bottom baste and fasten

close lining on side seam

sew forearm seam and press

baste shoulders

insert pads

machine seam sleeve lining

baste in sleeve linings and sleeves to pitch marks

make and baste in pads

cut and pad stitch undercollar and baste on

make half turnback cuff, plain and matching

insert hare pocket tab and button

make and attach patch pockets, inverted pleat pockets and box pleat

patch pockets



use, control and maintain the sewing machine



stitches including:

o basting stitch

o felling stitch

o cross stitch

o bartacks

64

o backstitch

o half backstitch

o hemming stitch

o serging stitch

o side stitch

o prick stitch

o padding stitch



figure variations




the company’s rules, codes, systems, procedures and guidelines


Skills

Hand sewing:






sewing with cotton

Stitches

mark stitching


bar tacks

hemming stitch

padding stitch

basting stitch

felling stitch

cross stitch

serging stitch

side stitch

prick stitch

Machine sewing:

Machine settings

stitch lengths

tension adjustments

65


threading needles




Machine control

thread control



sewing in bursts

knee / hand control



thread



back tacking edge







scissor cuts

Machine maintenance






their particular learners. The aims and aspirations of all learners, including those

with identified special needs, including learning difficulties/disabilities, should be

considered and appropriate support mechanisms put in place.




Skills.

66



















typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements








67










68

Make Handcraft/Bespoke Coat: Finishing And Pressing

Unit Reference

Y/601/3852

Level

3

Credit Value

11


60

Unit Summary

This unit is for those who finish a coat in

bespoke tailoring. The job role involves

finishing coat including buttonholes, edging

stitching and lining and final pressing

Learning Outcomes

(1 to 5)

The learner will

Assessment Criteria

(1.1 to 5.1)

The learner can






1.1 Evaluate a range of hand and machine

stitches and explain their appropriate use in

the production of bespoke coat making









figure variations




tailored garments

3.1 Analyse and select appropriate

equipment for the production of bespoke

coats, including



scissors, shear

iron

sewing machines

69



instructions

3.3 Identify common faults with equipment

and how they can be rectified

3.4 Explain sewing machine care,

maintenance procedures appropriate action

when problems are identified

4. Be able to finish a

bespoke tailored coat

4.1 Sew and press components to the

quality standards required and in the

correct sequence, including

fell throughout (linings and collar)

hand stitch edges (prick stitch and

swelled edge)

handwork buttonholes

make and insert hanger

remove bastings

top press sleeves, backs, fronts,

collars and shoulders

press drape to armholes

press and block sleeve heads

press linings and lapels

sew on buttons

5. Use safe working practices

that conform to current

legislative requirements and

codes of practice


conform to current legislative requirements

and codes of practice



T7

70


Y/601/3852 Make handcraft/bespoke coat: finishing and pressing – Level

3

Indicative Content


fell throughout (linings and collar)

hand stitch edges (prick stitch and swelled edge)

handwork buttonholes

make and insert hanger

remove bastings

top press sleeves, backs, fronts, collars and shoulders

hand close shoulder

press open and raise shoulder

press drape to armholes

press and block sleeve heads

press linings and lapels

sew on buttons



use, control and maintain a sewing machine



stitches, including

o basting stitch

o felling stitch

o cross stitch

o bartacks

o backstitch

o half backstitch

o hemming stitch

o serging stitch

o side stitch

o prick stitch

o padding stitch



figure variations

71





the company’s relevant rules, systems, procedures, codes and

guidelines


Skills

Hand sewing:






sewing with cotton

Stitches

mark stitching


bar tacks

hemming stitch

padding stitch

basting stitch

felling stitch

cross stitch

serging stitch

side stitch

prick stitch

Machine sewing:

Machine settings

stitch lengths

tension adjustments


threading needles




Machine control

thread control


72


sewing in bursts

knee/ hand control



thread



back tacking edge







scissor cuts

Machine maintenance













Skills.





73















typically include

Product evidence

Observation reports


Reports / notes


Witness statements












74






75

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL), Exemptions, Credit

Transfers and Equivalencies

ABC Awards policy enables learners to avoid duplication of learning and

assessment in a number of ways:

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL) – a method of assessment that

considers whether a learner can demonstrate that they can meet

the assessment requirements for a unit through knowledge,

understanding or skills they already possess and do not need to

develop through a course of learning.

Exemption - Exemption applies to any certificated achievement

which is deemed to be of equivalent value to a unit within ABC

qualification but which does not necessarily share the exact learning

outcomes and assessment criteria. It is the assessor’s

responsibility, in conjunction with the Internal Moderator, to map

this previous achievement against the assessment requirements of

the ABC qualification to be achieved in order to determine its

equivalence.

Any queries about the relevance of any certificated evidence,

should be referred in the first instance to your centre’s internal

moderator and then to ABC.

It is important to note that there may be restrictions upon a

learner’s ability to claim exemption or credit transfer which will be

dependent upon the currency of the unit/qualification and a

learner’s existing levels of skill or knowledge.

Where past certification only provides evidence that could be

considered for exemption of part of a unit, learners must be able to

offer additional evidence of previous or recent learning to

supplement their evidence of achievement.

Credit Transfer – ABC may attach credit to a qualification, a unit or

a component. Credit transfer is the process of using certificated

credits achieved in one qualification and transferring that

achievement as a valid contribution to the award of another

qualification. Units/Components transferred must share the same

learning outcomes and assessment criteria along with the same unit

76

number. Assessors must ensure that they review and verify the

evidence through sight of:

original certificates OR

copies of certificates that have been signed and dated by

the internal moderator confirming the photocopy is a real

copy and make these available for scrutiny by the External

Moderator.

Equivalencies – opportunities to count credits from the unit(s) from

other qualifications or from unit(s) submitted by other recognised

organisations towards the place of mandatory or optional unit(s)

specified in the rule of combination. The unit must have the same

credit value or greater than the unit(s) in question and be at the

same level or higher.

ABC encourages its centres to recognise the previous achievements of

learners through Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL), Exemption, Credit

Transfer and Equivalencies. Prior achievements may have resulted from

past or present employment, previous study or voluntary activities.

Centres should provide advice and guidance to the learner on what is

appropriate evidence and present that evidence to the external moderator

in the usual way.

Further guidance can be found in ‘Delivering and Assessing ABC Awards

Qualifications’ which can be downloaded from

http://www.abcawards.co.uk/centres-grid-page-move/policies-procedures/

Exemptions

There are no identified exemptions for these qualifications.

Equivalencies

There are no identified equivalencies for these qualifications.

Certification

Learners will be certificated for all units and qualifications that are

achieved and claimed.

ABC’s policies and procedures are available on the ABC website.

http://www.abcawards.co.uk/centres-grid-page-move/policies-procedures/

77

Glossary of Terms

GLH (Guided Learning Hours)

GLH is where the learner participates in education or training under the

immediate guidance or supervision of a tutor (or other appropriate

provider of education or training). It may be helpful to think – ‘Would I

need to plan for a member of staff to be present to give guidance or

supervision?’

GLH is calculated at qualification level and not unit/component level.

Examples of Guided Learning include:

Face-to-face meeting with a tutor

Telephone conversation with a tutor

Instant messaging with a tutor

Taking part in a live webinar

Classroom-based instruction

Supervised work

Taking part in a supervised or invigilated assessment

The learner is being observed.

TQT (Total Qualification Time)

‘The number of notional hours which represents an estimate of the total

amount of time that could reasonably be expected to be required, in order

for a learner to achieve and demonstrate the achievement of the level of

attainment necessary for the award of a qualification.’ The size of a

qualification is determined by the TQT.

TQT is made up of the Guided Learning Hours (GLH) plus all other time

taken in preparation, study or any other form of participation in education

or training but not under the direct supervision of a lecturer, supervisor or

tutor.

TQT is calculated at qualification level and not unit/component level.

Examples of unsupervised activities that could contribute to TQT include:

Researching a topic and writing a report

Watching an instructional online video at home/e-learning

Watching a recorded webinar

Compiling a portfolio in preparation for assessment

Completing an unsupervised practical activity or work

Rehearsing a presentation away from the classroom

Practising skills unsupervised

Requesting guidance via email – will not guarantee an immediate

response.

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