sedimentary dynamics and coastal changes on the south

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Journal of Coastal Research SI 39 227 - 232 ICS 2004 (Proceedings) Brazil ISSN 0749-0208 SWIFT, L. J.; DEVOY, R. J. N.; WHEELER, A. J.; SUTTON, G. D. and GAULT, J., 2006. Sedimentary Dynamics and Coastal Changes on the South Coast of Ireland. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 39, , 227 - 232. Itajaí, SC, Brazil, ISSN 0749-0208. Sedimentary studies of coasts sensitive to erosion in the south of Ireland are presented. Over 50 monitoring stations established in two bay-estuary systems (representing intertidal sandflats, pioneer to mature saltmarsh and extensive mudflats) incorporated sedimentation pins and buried plates to measure monthly surface elevation and linked sediment accretion changes. These measurements are supported by EDM Total Station and GPS transect surveys from the outer coastal areas to enable the quantification of contemporary net sedimentary movements and the analysis of the systems' sedimentation patterns. Results indicate significant localised beach profile adjustments ( 50cm annual vertical change) in the outer bay / estuary mouths. However, volumetric analyses indicate that only small (<5%) total beach volume changes are evident, thus suggesting that profile changes are a result of seasonal adjustments and exchange of sediment between profiles. Lateral erosion rates of local to regional soft shorelines within and adjacent to the study areas commonly exceed 1m yr . Estuary mudflats and saltmarshes in the systems are influenced by climatic seasonality and local morphologies, with averaged sedimentation rates of 6.0-6.5mm yr Sediment accretion at these inner coastal locations is possibly influenced by vegetation growth, particularly by spp., together with other local physical environmental factors ( , creek meandering). Results form part of an initial 30-month study, designed to investigate relationships between the long-term regional drivers of coastal change, and the contemporary functioning of these southern coasts of Ireland. (Proceedings of the 8th International Coastal Symposium) d Spartina e.g. Intertidal areas, sedimentation rates, estuarine hydrodynamics. ³ -1 1. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: ABSTRACT Sedimentary Dynamics and Coastal Changes on the South Coast of Ireland L. J. Swift†‡; R. J. N. Devoy†‡; A. J. Wheeler ; G. D. Sutton† and J. Gault† ¥ INTRODUCTION Despite numerous studies of short-term spatial and temporal intertidal accretion trends ( ,R , 1972; L and F , 1980; A and D , 1998), the processes that contribute to these sedimentation patterns remain poorly understood at local - regional scales (R and C , 1992) and are seen as complex (F and B , 1978) . The need for an improved understanding of intertidal and linked wider coastal sedimentary changes, however, is increasing, particularly as the managed realignment of marshes has become a more attractive and potentially feasible coastal protection option (C ., 2000a). Although process parameters combine in different ways to drive intertidal sedimentation, these relationships are complex and site specific in nature. This has tended to force researchers to isolate and study the individual processes involved, such as hydroperiodicity, wave energy (C , 1995) and the impact of vegetation on sedimentary patterns (S , 2001). Driving parameters, such as these, have been examined in the context of marsh survival and development (B ., 1984; J , 2000); to quantify impacts upon wave attenuation (M , 1996); to monitor impacts upon ecological zonation; and to quantify beach morphological change (e.g., M , 1998). To date, a spatially and thematically separated series of sedimentary and coastal process studies have been produced for Ireland's coasts. These include storm frequency and magnitude analyses (L ., in press), coastal morphological responses to storm forcing (e.g., W , 1999; D and D , 1999), Holocene sea-level changes (e.g., D , 1983; C , 1989; S , 1999), studies of dunes and coastal barriers (e.g., C ., 1992), estuarine geochemistry (G , 1996) and baseline coastal inventories (e.g., C , 1991; C and S , 1998). Approximately half of Ireland's c.7,500km coastline is estimated to be sensitive to coastal erosion under climate warming (D , 1992, 2000). Research upon Ireland's southern coasts in particular (S , 2003) is in progress to assess the impacts of these climate change- linked storm and erosion risks (V , 2003). This paper presents an aspect of this wider research that aims to establish the principal drivers of sedimentation within the different composite elements of two bay - estuary systems typical of Ireland's southwest central coastline (Figure 1). Extensive process (tidal, hydrodynamic, climatic) and morphometric data (elevation change, sediment deposition and loss, sediment composition changes) have been collected. This paper reports on representative data from over two years of monitoring of the sedimentary elevation changes recorded from these systems. Ireland's southwest - central coastline has a strong geological control, characterised by east west aligned anticlinal structures (S and P , 1994). The region has also been heavily modified by glacial/ice action (D and S , 1997). The study sites of Courtmacsherry Bay and Womanagh Estuary are exposed to southerly - southeasterly and southeast - easterly wind-wave actions respectively. Extensive inner mudflat and saltmarsh complexes here are protected by the e.g. et al et al. et al et al. et al et al. et al. et al. et al. et al. ANWELL ETZSCH REY LLEN UFFY EED AHOON REY ASAN AHOON Á NCHEZ AUMANN ANSSEN-STELDER Ö LLER ASSELINK OZANO HEELER EVOY ARTER INNOTT ALLAGHER URTIS HEEHY SKEFFINGTON WIFT IJAYKUMAR LEEMAN RACHT EVOY INNOTT AHOON UFFY EVOY ARTER URTIS EVOY . et al et al PHYSICAL SETTING †Coastal and Marine Resources Centre, Environmental Research Institute, University College Cork (UCC), Naval Base, Haulbowline, Cobh, Ireland. ‡Department of Geography, University College Cork (UCC), Ireland. [email protected] ¥Department of Geology, University College Cork (UCC), Ireland. Figure 1. The study region and the two monitored study sites. Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 39, 2006 ,

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Page 1: Sedimentary Dynamics and Coastal Changes on the South

Journal of Coastal Research SI 39 227 - 232 ICS 2004 (Proceedings) Brazil ISSN 0749-0208

SWIFT, L. J.; DEVOY, R. J. N.; WHEELER, A. J.; SUTTON, G. D. and GAULT, J., 2006. Sedimentary Dynamicsand Coastal Changes on the South Coast of Ireland. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 39,

, 227 - 232. Itajaí, SC, Brazil, ISSN 0749-0208.

Sedimentary studies of coasts sensitive to erosion in the south of Ireland are presented. Over 50 monitoring stationsestablished in two bay-estuary systems (representing intertidal sandflats, pioneer to mature saltmarsh and extensivemudflats) incorporated sedimentation pins and buried plates to measure monthly surface elevation and linkedsediment accretion changes. These measurements are supported by EDM Total Station and GPS transect surveysfrom the outer coastal areas to enable the quantification of contemporary net sedimentary movements and theanalysis of the systems' sedimentation patterns. Results indicate significant localised beach profile adjustments( 50cm annual vertical change) in the outer bay / estuary mouths. However, volumetric analyses indicate that onlysmall (<5%) total beach volume changes are evident, thus suggesting that profile changes are a result of seasonaladjustments and exchange of sediment between profiles. Lateral erosion rates of local to regional soft shorelineswithin and adjacent to the study areas commonly exceed 1m yr . Estuary mudflats and saltmarshes in the systems areinfluenced by climatic seasonality and local morphologies, with averaged sedimentation rates of 6.0-6.5mm yrSediment accretion at these inner coastal locations is possibly influenced by vegetation growth, particularly by

spp., together with other local physical environmental factors ( , creek meandering). Results form partof an initial 30-month study, designed to investigate relationships between the long-term regional drivers of coastalchange, and the contemporary functioning of these southern coasts of Ireland.

(Proceedings of the 8thInternational Coastal Symposium)

d

Spartina e.g.

Intertidal areas, sedimentation rates, estuarine hydrodynamics.

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ADDITIONALINDEX WORDS:

ABSTRACT

Sedimentary Dynamics and Coastal Changes on the South Coast of Ireland

L. J. Swift†‡; R. J. N. Devoy†‡; A. J. Wheeler ; G. D. Sutton† and J. Gault†�

INTRODUCTION

Despite numerous studies of short-term spatial and temporalintertidal accretion trends ( , R , 1972; L andF , 1980; A and D , 1998), the processes thatcontribute to these sedimentation patterns remain poorlyunderstood at local - regional scales (R and C , 1992)and are seen as complex (F and B , 1978) . The needfor an improved understanding of intertidal and linked widercoastal sedimentary changes, however, is increasing,particularly as the managed realignment of marshes has becomea more attractive and potentially feasible coastal protectionoption (C ., 2000a). Although process parameterscombine in different ways to drive intertidal sedimentation,these relationships are complex and site specific in nature. Thishas tended to force researchers to isolate and study theindividual processes involved, such as hydroperiodicity, waveenergy (C , 1995) and the impact of vegetation onsedimentary patterns (S , 2001). Drivingparameters, such as these, have been examined in the context ofmarsh survival and development (B ., 1984;J , 2000); to quantify impacts upon waveattenuation (M , 1996); to monitor impacts uponecological zonation; and to quantify beach morphologicalchange (e.g., M , 1998).

To date, a spatially and thematically separated series ofsedimentary and coastal process studies have been produced forIreland's coasts. These include storm frequency and magnitudeanalyses (L ., in press), coastal morphologicalresponses to storm forcing (e.g., W , 1999; Dand D , 1999), Holocene sea-level changes (e.g., D ,1983; C , 1989; S , 1999), studies of dunesand coastal barriers (e.g., C ., 1992), estuarinegeochemistry (G , 1996) and baseline coastalinventories (e.g., C , 1991; C and S

, 1998). Approximately half of Ireland'sc.7,500km coastline is estimated to be sensitive to coastalerosion under climate warming (D , 1992, 2000). Researchupon Ireland's southern coasts in particular (S , 2003)

is in progress to assess the impacts of these climate change-linked storm and erosion risks (V , 2003). Thispaper presents an aspect of this wider research that aims toestablish the principal drivers of sedimentation within thedifferent composite elements of two bay - estuary systemstypical of Ireland's southwest central coastline (Figure 1).Extensive process (tidal, hydrodynamic, climatic) andmorphometric data (elevation change, sediment deposition andloss, sediment composition changes) have been collected. Thispaper reports on representative data from over two years ofmonitoring of the sedimentary elevation changes recorded fromthese systems.

Ireland's southwest - central coastline has a strong geologicalcontrol, characterised by east west aligned anticlinal structures(S and P , 1994). The region has also beenheavily modified by glacial/ice action (D and S ,1997). The study sites of Courtmacsherry Bay and WomanaghEstuary are exposed to southerly - southeasterly and southeast -easterly wind-wave actions respectively. Extensive innermudflat and saltmarsh complexes here are protected by the

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AUMANN

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ARTER INNOTT

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PHYSICAL SETTING

†Coastal and Marine Resources Centre,Environmental Research Institute,University College Cork (UCC),Naval Base, Haulbowline,Cobh, Ireland.

‡Department of Geography,University College Cork (UCC),[email protected]

�Department of Geology,University College Cork (UCC),Ireland.

Figure 1. The study region and the two monitored study sites.

Journal of Coastal Research Special Issue 39, 2006,

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Development of high-energy, open coast gravel-based spit andbarrier structures. These coasts experience a semi-diurnal, highmesotidal regime (mean spring range = 3.7 m; neap range = 1.9m), generating maximal inner estuary currents of approx. 1 ms(S , 2003). The prevailing south-westerly windstypically average c. 15 knots, with maximum gust speeds of c.80 knots during winter.

Courtmacsherry Bay is fed by two river - estuary sources(Figure 2). Timoleague is situated at the head of the Argideenestuary and is channel dominated, with flanking channel edgemud and sandflats. These are backed by an upper mudflatbench and fringing high marsh, which support a summervegetation assemblage of

and occasional and(D , 1996a). Harbour View is

characterised by a wide, ultra dissipative medium-sand beach(typical mean grain size = 300 m) backed by a dune sandbarrier and intersected by a riverine/ebb dominated tidalchannel. Landward of the barrier, progressively finersediments form substantial 'semi-quiescent' intertidal mudflats(typical mean grain size = 40-80 m) colonised in part by

. At the head of the estuary, the upper mudflats arebacked by mature saltmarsh (laterally eroding c.10-20 cm a ).In both areas coverage can reach 100%during the summer months.

The Womanagh estuary (east County Cork) is a distinctive'lagoon estuary' (C and S , 1998).The environment is river dominated, (low tide salinity is c.1-5ppt, , 2003), due to extensive physical protection bysand - gravel barrier structures that support small-scale sanddunes except at the tidal channel intersection. Wide sandflatsdissipate wave energy seaward of the barriers. Within theestuary, extensive channel incised mudflats are backed bypioneer saltmarsh, mature saltmarsh and formerly reclaimedland that has reverted to saltmarsh.

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METHODS

Inner Estuary Intertidal Elevation Change

In recent years, small changes (+/- 1.5 mm) in sediment

surface elevation have been successfully measured in a numberof tidal and riverine marsh environments using thesedimentation-erosion table (SET) (e.g., B and D ,1993; C , 2000a). However, the high initialoverheads and limited spatial coverage (B and D ,1993) of the SET compelled the consideration of alternativeoptions for this particular research.

Although sequential levelling surveys (e.g., by ElectronicDistance Measurement [EDM] Total Station) can detect large-scale (>1 cm) elevation changes over time (A ,1981; P and B , 1996), most saltmarshes exhibitrates of surface elevation change below this magnitude(C , 2000a). Consequently, 'reference frames',most recently used by H and B (1999), wereemployed to measure intertidal elevation changes in relation toa bar placed across pairs of fixed points (sediment pins) (Dand D , 1999).

Atotal of fifty-seven sediment pin stations were installed

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Figure 3. Concept and measurement of sedimentation pins (afterC 2000b).AHOON et al.,

Figure 2. Courtmacsherry Bay, west County Cork showing the study locations. H1 and H3 are EDM repeat levelling transects (seeFigs. 7 & 8), CT-D is a long-term monitoring station 1995-2002 (see Fig. 6).

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(Thirty-six at Courtmacsherry and twenty-one at YoughalWomanagh). All stations were resolved to national OrdnanceDatum, Malin (ODM) using an EDM Total Station. Eachsediment station comprised two light metal pins (2.25-2.5mlong, 1cm diam.) driven one metre apart into the sediments andanchored in the 'lower subsidence layer' (C , 1995).This fixes the pins into position (to the point when refusal of thepin to further downward movement occurs), allowing themeasurement of elevation changes: as the combined effects ofcompaction-consolidation / sediment expansion (i.e. 'groundbreathing') of the upper subsidence layer and the vertical gainsor losses of sediment (Figure 3) (D and D , 1999).

Previously, sediment pins have been used to measure verticalaccretion / erosion alone. In this study the consolidatedglaciogenic materials underlying the sites enabled themeasurement of the upper sedimentary layer's subsidence aswell. This 'reference frame' approach can be limited when usedin deep soft sediments (C 2000a), due to thepotential for the pins (or especially heavier pipes, if used) tosink over time.

Monitoring was conducted each lunar month (29.5 days)between April 2001 and July 2003. A specially designedwooden bar was fitted across the two pins to provide arepeatable datum, from which a stainless steel rule was placedonto the sediment surface (visually defined) at five equidistantpoints (Figure 3). The mean of these distance measurementsbetween the datum and sediment surface, enables thecalculation of yearly sedimentation rates and the identificationof any seasonal patterns in sedimentary changes.

This method of measurement has some practical problems.The sediment surface cannot always be easily defined,particularly with liquid-mud, or heavily vegetated (either in situ[e.g., .] or transient [e.g., .])surfaces. Trampling adjacent to each station was a necessary'evil' of monitoring that sometimes affected vegetation growth,although the repercussions of this on sedimentation changes areuncertain. The affect of wave scour on the sediment pins wasfound to be minimal; probably due to the relatively low energy

of these inner-estuary areas.

A 'pilot' deployment of sediment pins on the medium-highenergy Harbour View sand flats indicated that substantial (>10cm per week) elevation changes occurred in such outer estuary -beach areas. This allowed topographic surveys to be used as avalid, repeatable and safe (the beach is often used for watersports) alternative means of recording sedimentary changes inthese environments. A SET4010 EDM was used toconduct topographic surveys of transects arranged in a 'radial'array. Heights were calculated to ODM, using differential GPS,and beach 'volumes' were determined above an arbitrary baselevel of 2 m ODM using (Golden Software). In thisstudy data are presented from Harbour View, one of four outerestuary sandflats monitored between 2001-2003.

Particle size analyses from these areas show the dominanceof fine sized sediments (mean sediment grain sizes typically <75 m), characteristic of low-energy regimes (D andD , 1999).

At the study sites it is likely that the individual recordingstations, even within an otherwise homogeneous environment,will be subject to different forcing parameter combinations(e.g., fetch, proximity to channels, position within the tidalframe). However similar net trends in surface elevation changewere often observed at different recording stations (Figure 4).These included seasonal pattern changes and were particularlyevident at stations with similar morphological attributes andvegetation cover (e.g., sites dominated by ). Thepatterns of elevation changes also follow the same or similartrend on a regional basis. The average cumulative elevationchanges from all the Courtmacsherry stations are closelycomparable to those of the Womanagh stations (Figure 5),exhibiting annual rates of elevation change of c. +6-6.5 mm yr(2001-2003). These rates of elevation change from the

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Outer Estuary Topographic Change

RESULTS

Inner Estuary Elevation Changes

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Sedimentary Dynamics, Ireland

Figure 7. Vertical elevation changes at transect H1, HarbourView (see Figure 2 for the transect location). Note that thewestward channel bank remains static throughout.

Figure 6.Cumulative elevation rates at station CT-D,Timoleague ( . mudflat), Jan 1995 - Jan 2002.Spartina spp

Figure 5. Average cumulative elevation changes from allWomanagh and Courtmacsherry sediment pin stations (4thorder polynomials trendlines have been added).

Figure 4. Cumulative elevation change at four sediment pinstations, Womanagh estuary.

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Courtmacsherry sites have also been compared with those froman earlier 18-month study (Jan 1995 July 1996) at Timoleague(Figure 2) (D , 1996a). A number of sediment pinstations used in that study remain in position unchanged andhave allowed direct comparison of sedimentary trends betweenthe two time periods (Figure 6). Whilst the monitored sedimentelevation levels for the two study periods are independent ofeach other, results show similar time trends and mean annualsediment accretion rates, of c.6 mm y .

Differences do exist, most noticeably the sudden loss ofelevation for station CT-D shown to commence at the end ofNovember 1995. D (1996a) attributed this trend torapid erosion of the sediment surface by localised increases inwave energy as a result of the seasonal prevalence of northeasterly winds coincident with the maximum fetch for thesestations.

Contrasted with the inner estuary areas, of fine sedimentsstorage and predominantly low wave energy regimes, are thewave exposed higher energy, open coastal study sites. Theseare dominated by sediments of medium - coarse sands andgravels.

The intertidal sediment transects from the Harbour View areadisplay significant temporal adjustments. For example, transectH1 (Figure 7) shows substantial (>50 cm) vertical accretionover a 4-month period (February 2003 June 2003). This patternof change appears to be continuous (as opposed to cyclical) overthe short study period (Figure 2). The main channel position hasremained static, however, during this time. In contrast, transectH3 (Figure 8) exhibits distinct vertical and lateral sedimentmovements, driven in part by migration (~100 m/yr) of theshallow ebb-tidal channel, and vertical elevation change inexcess of 1m (June 2002 - February 2003). This may be due tothe affect of persistent southerly winds at this location duringthe winter period.

In spite of the apparent substantial beach height adjustmentsrecorded over some transects, sediment volumetric (above 2 mODM) change at sites appears as relatively small (<5%). Thismay indicate the remobilisation and redistribution of sedimentwithin and between the surveyed profiles, rather than net gainsor losses of sediment from the beach system as a whole.The opposing trends of accretion and erosion between transectsH1 and H3 in the same area (Figure 9) illustrate this and alsointimate to sediment redistribution within the Harbour Viewsand flat.

Factors that influence sediment accretion and erosion, asmeasured by changes in sediment elevation, are mainly drivenby variations in wind-generated waves and currents and by tidalcurrents (A , 1981). Variations in sedimentsupply over time are also important. Records of these sedimentelevation 'fluxes' require cautious interpretation due to thestrong localised differences that will exist between bothindividual recording stations and between study areas. It

should be noted that intertidal sedimentary flat environmentsdisplay trends and patterns on a number of spatial and temporalscales and do not respond to forcing factors in a simple anduniform way (A and D , 1998). Further, for marsh -mudflat, low energy areas sedimentation is not a continuousprocess (R , 1989).

Consequently, although valid in itself, this two-year study ofsuch coastal sites is hardly sufficient to define the longer-termpatterns and causes of sedimentation. In this study overall innerestuary elevations have been shown to be increasing at a rate ofc.6 mm yr-1, which is consistent with earlier results from thesame areas. Reasons for this trend at the Timoleague -Courtmacsherry site may include the factor of river waterextraction (Argideen river), with consequent strengthening oftide dominated sediments influx. For both sites intensiveagriculture in the river catchments feeding the coastscontributes sediment-rich runoff into the estuaries fromsignificant exposures of seasonally unvegetated land. Further,the impact of Spartina spp. colonisation, which has occurredsince 1967 at Timoleague and the Womanagh estuary, may beleading to accelerated elevation gains in the pioneer marshes(S et al., 2001).

As with the earlier work of D and D (1999), thepattern of maximum sedimentary accretion in the currentstudies appears to show some cyclicity - seasonality for themarsh and other low energy areas (e.g., Figure 5). D .,(1996a) report that the sediment surfaces at these andcomparable coastal marshes in Ireland generally attain theirhighest elevations during the winter to early spring, and theirlowest during the summer to autumn. Causes for this, asobserved more widely (D , 1994), are probably due towinter sediment accretion from storm events and the summerconsolidation of sediments through 'ground breathing'. D

(1996a) found that storm events may be most significantfor those marsh stations that exhibited a positive sedimentaryaccretion relationship with wind-wave climate. Conversely,exposed sandflats and degraded saltmarsh had an opposite(sediment loss) relationship, being lower in the tidal frame andexperiencing increased wind-wave induced shear stresses. Inthe present study these patterns are less clear for some of themonitored locations. In this work the intertidal flat stations aregenerally small-scale and lie close to riverine channels, and areperhaps less dependent upon storm events to gather inorganicmaterial (C and R , 1995).

The similarity in rate and pattern of average elevationchanges in the two estuaries, 62 km apart, is an interestingresult. Could this be coincidental, or are regional - wider factorsresponsible (L , in press)? The similar rates ofchange observed between the two Timoleague studies (for 1995and 2003) indicate an ongoing medium-term sedimentation rate(mean elevation increase) of c.6mm yr . The comparison ofthese studies (Figure 5) does also show that phases of erosion,due to wind-wave activity and storminess, can 're-zero' thesediment surfaces virtually instantaneously. Thesecontemporary accretion rates contrast with a lower long-termaveraged accumulation rate of c. 2mm yr , as reconstructed

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Outer Estuary - Beach Elevation Changes

DISCUSSIONS

Swift et al.

Figure 8. Vertical elevation changes at transect H3 (see figure 2for transect location).

Figure 9. Percentage volumetric change (above ODM 2m) oftransects H1 and H3.

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from the radiocarbon dating and palaeoenvironmental analysesof the longer Holocene sedimentary sequences at such sites(D ., 1996a; D ., this volume). This maysuggest that a different 'suite' of process parameters is nowoperating at the study sites, causing more rapid environmentalchanges to occur (e.g., from human impacts, storminess andclimate change linked causes). However, the estimation ofsedimentation rates based upon the dating of cores can beproblematic, often providing only 'tentative' results (R ,2002). The processes of sediment compaction-consolidationand extreme event / geological averaging of the coastalsedimentary record will cause an inbuilt environmentaldistortion (underestimation) of reconstructed sedimentationrates from the past (D ., 1996b).

In the present day, the observed contemporary infilling ofnavigation channels, the increasing extent of intertidal flats(linked to habitat changes), and the apparent increase inEnteromorpha spp. during the summer months highlight theimportance of human-induced environmental managementissues in ongoing coastal sedimentation. Other factors ofimportance for continued sedimentary changes include those ofrelative sea-level rises (RSL) and storminess, as linked tocoastal geometry. Relative sea-level rise may trigger marshinitiation (P 1980; A , 2000) and can be importantin determining the timing of their development cycles.However, although marshes have been shown to accrete at afaster rate than RSL, if there is sufficient sediment input and insitu soil formation (D et al., 1998), models of marshdevelopment generally indicate that accretion rates decrease asmarsh height increases (P , 1980). Given theseobservations it is unlikely that the current rate of RSL alongIreland's south coast (1-2 mm yr ) will be responsible for all ofthe elevation increases observed at the study sites.

The influence of changing storminess patterns may also bereflected in the site data. The magnitude and rapid nature of thechanges shown at some study locations, for example, by theHarbour View sandflat (Figures 7 and 8), may in part be aresponse to episodic, high energy events, as seen on theIreland's west coast (D and D , 1999; W ,1999). The geometry of both study sites ensures that the innerestuary areas are afforded protection from the effects ofstorminess. This has resulted in lower energy levels within themain estuarine bodies and sedimentological partitioning of theinner and outer estuary systems. Although separated by amatter of only a few metres, monitoring of suspended sedimentflows has shown that coarse sediments rarely move landward ofthe protecting coastal barrier, whilst few fines escape from themain estuary.

This paper has presented a selection of representative resultsfrom a wider, ongoing study of coastal functioning along thesouth coast of Ireland. More questions have been asked thananswered at present, though some clear patterns of short -medium term changes are apparent for the sites, at both the localand inter-site (regional) scales. It is the aim of further work toshow more accurately the combination of processes that drivethe large scale, rapid patterns of outer estuary sedimentarymovements and the steady elevation increases (c.6 mm yr ) ofthe inner estuary mudflats and saltmarshes on these coasts.

We would like to thank the many people who have assistedthis project. In particular, from the Coastal and MarineResources Centre (UCC), Cathal O'Mahony, Pascal Navarreand Max Kozachenko for help in the field, and from theDepartment of Geography (UCC), Mary Murphy and RoisinMurphy for laboratory assistance. The financial support of theHEA Programme for Research in Third-Level Institutions,Cycle 2, Phase 1 is gratefully acknowledged.

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