section 4 eufora professional euforacolor...4-6 aloe vera rich in amino acids, the building blocks...

4-1

SECTION 4

EUFORA PROFESSIONAL

4

EUFORACOLORTM

From its inception, EuforaColor was designed with the colorist in mind. The innovative hybrid technology of EuforaColor allows for fewer tubes in the salon with unlimited possibilities for custom color formulations.

“There are only three colors, ten digits and seven notes;it’s what we do with them that’s important.”

~ Jim Rohn

4-1

SECTION 4

EUFORACOLOR™

4

From its inception, EuforaColor was designed with the colorist in mind. The innovative hybrid technology of EuforaColor allows for fewer tubes in the salon with unlimited possibilities for custom color formulations.

“There are only three colors, ten digits and seven notes;it’s what we do with them that’s important.”

~ Jim Rohn

4-2

4-1 EUFORACOLOR OXIDATIVE DYE TECHNOLOGY

At Eufora we understand the need for excellence and high performance when it comes to hair color. With that in mind, EuforaColor was created with advanced hybrid technology that incorporates LOW and NO Ammonia color at extremely low percentages. Low percentages of an alkalizing agent in hair color creates less swelling of the hair shaft, keeping the cuticle layer more compact (less open) during processing. This gentle approach allows for hair color that lasts, has incredible shine, and leaves the hair strand gorgeously healthy.

HYBRID TECHNOLOGYEuforaColor Hybrid Technology is a new genre of hair color performance. The Eufora approach to hair color is designed to cross mix technologies in one formula. Hybrid Formulations puts EuforaColor on the forefront of hair color technology.

EUFORACOLOR LOW AMMONIA SHADESEuforaColor Low Ammonia Shades contain less than 1% Ammonia and are gentle enough to protect the integrity of the hair strand, yet strong enough to lift natural melanin. Ammonia has been tried, tested and true throughout the history of hair color. 90% of all salons in North America use ammonia as their choice for permanent color.

EUFORACOLOR NO AMMONIA SHADESEuforaColor No Ammonia Shades contain less than 1% MEA (Monoethanolamine) with permanent, long lasting 100% grey coverage. This series shines on its own and is calibrated to match level, tone and mixing formulations with the EuforaColor Low Ammonia Shades.

The Eufora exclusive Micro Molecular Technology in both Low and No Ammonia shades allows for the low alkalizing agent levels in EuforaColor. This revolutionary technology allows for the creation of tiny pigment particles that easily pass through the small openings in the cuticle layer of the hair strand, depositing deeply into the cortex. The micro molecular pigment particles in EuforaColor are atomized in a vacuum environment, producing color pigment with 99.98% purity.

4-3

KEY BENEFITS OF MICRO MOLECULAR TECHNOLOGY:

• Unsurpassed color saturation in the cortex.• Increased vibrancy of tone.• Smoother cuticle layer (due to reduced swelling of the hair shaft).• Exceptional grey coverage.• Greater longevity of color with less fading.

UNSURPASSED COVERAGEEuforaColor Hybrid Technologies give colorists the ability to mix two technologies together in the same formula with predictable and consistent results.

THIS ALLOWS FOR:

• Lift and deposit for greater saturation and control.• 100% grey coverage with Hybrid Formulations when lift is required.• 100% grey coverage with No Ammonia Formulations for deposit only.

The benefits of the EuforaColor Hybrid technology begin with how No Ammonia and Low Ammonia rests in the hair strand.

EUFORACOLOR LOW AMMONIA SHADESLow Ammonia color rests throughout the entire cortex, lifting and depositing simultaneously while exposing underlying pigment throughout the process. Low Ammonia pigment will work to neutralize, balance or enhance the exposed underlying pigment.

4-4

EUFORACOLOR NO AMMONIA SHADESNo Ammonia color forms an additional ring of deposit into the outer 1/3 area of the cortex, reflecting through the cuticle. The No Ammonia pigment is permanent and has the ability to add to the desired end result of neutralizing, balance or enhancing exposed underlying pigment.

EuforaColor HYBRID FORMULATIONSMixing EuforaColor Low and No Ammonia Color into a single formula combines the benefits of both technologies, creating a hybrid approach to hair color.

4-5

A HYBRID FORMULA HAS THE ABILITY TO:

• Lift from the Low Ammonia alkalizing agent.• Achieve advanced deposit through specific location delivery in the cortex of Low

and No Ammonia Color.• Greater tonal control.• Congruent, high quality pigments used in both Low and No Ammonia Color.• Create greater longevity and vibrancy of color.• Provide superior grey coverage and tonal control when lift is required.• Provide exceptional coverage for resistant grey hair.• Allow for full line usage.

EuforaColor utilizes the highest-grade color pigment available in both the Low and No Ammonia technologies. This congruency in pigment quality allows for the mixing of Low and No Ammonia color together in the same formula. There is no “clashing of pigments.” A EuforaColor Low Ammonia 6.0/6N has the same quality pigments, level, dye load and tonal value as a No Ammonia 6.0/6N. This calibration guarantees that when the two technologies are mixed there will be predictability and accuracy in the final color outcome.

EuforaColor calibration also allows the colorist to create any “in-between” shade for the exact level needed.

The trick to creating “in-between” shades is to measure in equal parts (half or thirds) and add each addition together. Then simply divide your final number by the amount of “parts” you put into your formula.

Examples:Target Shade: 6.0/6N (when using shades that are 2 levels apart)Mix ½ part 5.0/5N and ½ part 7.0/7N(5+7=12 ÷ 2 = 6)

Target Shade: 6.0/6N (when using shades that are more than 2 levels apart)Mix 1/3 part 4.0/4N, with 1/3 part 7.0/7N, and an additional 1/3 part 7.0/7N(4+7+7=18 ÷ 3 = 6)

The pigment pre-cursor in EuforaColor is Paraphenylenediamine (PPD). As learned in the Universal Color Theory chapter of this Encyclopedia, PPD is the most widely tested agent in hair color with over 50+ years of documented results.

LUMINOSITYEuforaColor fits between translucent and opaque in luminosity. This allows for significant vibrancy and incredible shine. Many colors sacrifice shine for opacity, or coverage for shine. The cool base of EuforaColor, combined with key ingredients, allows for both coverage and shine.

Micro Molecular Technology, along with the renowned benefits of Aloe, Jojoba and Beeswax in EuforaColor, minimizes damage and preserves the integrity of the hair and scalp. The result is silky, healthy, vibrant hair with unparalleled color saturation and shine.

4-6

ALOE VERARich in amino acids, the building blocks of protein, Aloe Vera is known for its nourishing and healing benefits. Aloe Vera also helps maintain hydration and protects the health of the hair and scalp.

JOJOBA OILKnown for its ability to soothe, smooth and moisturize hair. Jojoba Oil is a lightweight oil that contains Vitamin E and is rich in fatty glycerides, natural emollients that help to improve shine, softness and moisture retention.

CERA ALBA (BEESWAX)This impressive multi-functioning natural emollient provides lubrication and hydration for velvety softness. Cera Alba is also highly regarded for its ability to add volume, thickness, strength and shine to hair.

EUFORACOLOR IS COOLEuforaColor is a cool based line, the natural series green-blue base allows for easy color formulation. The artistic advantage to starting with EuforaColor cool based color is that there is no need to combat unwanted warmth when formulating. A cool base allows the colorist to build upon their formula instead of combating warmth from the tube.

Grey coverage becomes easier with the EuforaColor Natural Series. The cool base provides a foundation to build the desired tone upon, providing control and 100% coverage when following the basic rules of grey coverage covered later in this chapter.

EUFORACOLOR LEVEL SYSTEMEach color “brand” has its own level system. It is imperative to “swatch out” each guest to determine where their natural level fits in the EuforaColor system. Use the Natural (.0/N) or Natural Ash (.01/NA) swatches to determine level.

THE EUFORACOLOR LEVEL SYSTEM

Level 1 BlackLevel 2 Darkest Natural BrownLevel 3 Dark Natural BrownLevel 4 Medium Natural BrownLevel 5 Light Natural BrownLevel 6 Dark Natural BlondeLevel 7 Medium Natural BlondeLevel 8 Light Natural BlondeLevel 9 Very Light Natural BlondeLevel 10 Lightest Natural Blonde

4-7

EUFORACOLOR TONE SYSTEM

There are 8 Tones and 15 Extended Tones in the EuforaColor palette.

The EuforaColor Tone System:

Natural .0/NAsh .1/AViolet .2/VGold .3/GCopper .4/CMahogany .5/MRed .6/RBlue/Violet .7

The Extended EuforaColor Tone System:

Intense Natural .00/INNatural Ash .01/NANatural Warm .03/NWBlue Black .10/BBIntense Ash .11/AA Ash Violet .12/AVIntense Violet .22/VVBeige .32/GVGolden Mahogany .35/GMCarmel .42/CVIntense Copper .44/CCIntense Copper Violet .442/CCVRed Violet .62/RVIntense Red .66/RRCoffee .73/AG

6.32, 8.32, 9.32, 10.32

5.354.442, 6.42, 8.42

4.62

4.73, 6.73

10.3

9.3

8.3

7.3

6.3

5.3

4.3

3.3

8.4

7.4

6.4

5.4

4.4

10.1

8.1

6.1

4.1

1.10

12.0

10.09.0

8.07.0

6.05.0

4.03.0

2.01.0

9.01

8.01

7.01

6.01

5.01

4.0

1

12.11

8.00

6.00

4.00

8.6

7.6

6.6

5.6

4.6

7.66

5.666.5

4.5 5.22

3.22

12.1210.12

7.44

10.0

3

9.0

3

8.0

3

7.0

3

6.0

3

5.0

3

4.0

3

3.0

3

8.11

6.11

4.11

4-8

HOW TO READ EUFORACOLORThe numeric and alphabetic identifiers on EuforaColor follow a universal system.

The number(s) before the decimal point in the identifier represents the Natural Balance Level of the color, and will contribute depth and natural balance to the final color result. Natural Balance Level ranges from 50% of the total base of a color to 70% in the Natural and Intense Natural Series.

The numbers after the decimal point represent the Tonal Contribution to the final color result.

FOR GENERAL PURPOSES:

The Tonal Contribution percentages in EuforaColor range from 30% to 60% of the total base of a color.

The first number after the decimal point is the Primary Tone and represents 30% of the total Tonal Contribution to the final color result.

The second number after the decimal point is the Secondary Tone and represents 20% of the total Tonal Contribution to the final color result.

The third number (where applicable) after the decimal point is the Tertiary Tone and represents an additional 10% of Tonal Contribution to the final color result.

If there are two numbers in the identifier, 70% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level and 30% will be Tone.

Example:4.0/4N (Medium Natural Brown)70% of the base is Natural Balance Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.)30% of the base is Natural Tone (.0/N)

If there are three numbers in the identifier, 50% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be Primary Tone and 20% will be Secondary Tone.

Example:4.62/4RV (Medium Red Violet Brown)50% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4)30% of the base is Red Tone (.62/RV)20% of the base is Violet Tone (.62/RV)

The exception to this rule is the Intense Natural Series where 70% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be primary tone and an additional 20% Secondary Tone is added.

Example:4.00/4NN (Medium Intense Natural Brown)70% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.)30% of the base is Natural Tone (.00/NN)20% of the base is Natural Tone (.00/NN)

4-9

If there are four numbers in the identifier, 50% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be Primary Tone, 20% will be Secondary Tone and 10% will be Tertiary Tone. This will calculate to 110% and represents an intense saturation of Tone and pigment.

Example:4.442/4CCV (Medium Intense Copper Violet Brown)50% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.)30% of the base is Copper Tone (.442/CCV)20% of the base is Copper Tone (.442/CCV)10% of the base is Violet Tone (.442/CCV)

SHADE

70%

70%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

50%

.0/N

.00/IN

.01/NA

.03/NW

.3/G

.32/GV

.4/C

.44/CC

.42/CV

.442/CCV

.6/R

.66/RR

.5/M

.35/GM

.1/A

.11/IA

.12/AV

.22/VV

.62/RV

.73/AG

.10/BB

NATURALBALANCE

LEVEL

30% Natural

30% Natural

30% Natural

30% Natural

50% Gold

30% Gold

50% Copper

30% Copper

30% Copper

30% Copper

50% Red

30% Red

50% Mahogany

30% Gold

50% Ash

30% Ash

30% Ash

30% Violet

30% Red

30% Blue/Violet

30% Ash

PRIMARYTONE

N/A

20% Natural

20% Ash

20% Gold

N/A

20% Violet

N/A

20% Copper

20% Violet

15% Copper

N/A

20% Red

N/A

20% Mahogany

N/A

20% Ash

20% Violet

20% Violet

20% Violet

20% Gold

20% Natural

SECONDARYTONE

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

5% Violet

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

TERTIARYTONE

Natural(Green/Blue)

FINALTONE

Intense Natural(Green/Blue)

Natural Ash(Blue/Green)

Natural Warm(Green/Blue)

Gold

Beige

Copper

Intense Copper

Copper Violet

Intense Copper Violet

Red

Intense Red

Mahogany

Golden Mahogany

Ash

Ash Violet

Intense Violet

Red Violet

Coffee

Blue Black

4-10

KEY CONSIDERATIONS:EuforaColor Natural Balance is COOL and the EuforaColor Tonal Contribution is vibrantly pigmented. This allows for easier control of warmth with rich results.

Shades form the EuforaColor Natural Series Families must be included in grey coverage formulas because of the combination of Natural Balance Level and Natural Tone (see “Grey Coverage” later in this chapter).

The EuforaColor Natural Series is uniquely designed to cover grey. The 70% Natural Balance Level provides an exceptional level of grey coverage while the 50% of Tone adds lasting hue (tonality) and shine.

The EuforaColor Intense Natural Series shifts Natural Balance to 70% for grey coverage and adds an additional 50% Tone to enhance pigmentation of resistant grey hair. The Intense Natural Series will appear ½ to 1 Level Darker than the Natural Series because the saturation of Natural Tone is increased to infuse more Natural pigment into the final color result.

CREATIVE PIGMENTS & INTENSIFIERSEuforaColor Creative Pigments and Intensifiers are power tools for tonal control and creative expression.

CREATIVE PIGMENTSAn oxidative artistic color tool provides customized formulation to enhance or neutralize specific tones. Creative Pigments offer tremendous control and therefore only a small amount should be added to the formula. A little goes a long way with this artistic tool.

INTENSIFIERSA combination of oxidative and direct dyes. EuforaColor Intensifiers are used to “amp” up color or create a permanent fashion shade.

4-11

SUPER LIGHTENERSEuforaColor Super Lighteners are a series of low ammonia, permanent cream color that provide high lift lightening while depositing pigment for toning in a single process. It is possible to lift up to 4 levels while controlling tone to minimize warmth for superior tonal control. The Super Lightener Series is for areas of the hair that do not contain artificial pigment. The starting level should never be darker than a Natural Level 7. Using a Super Lift Color on hair darker than Natural Level 7 will result in losing control of the underlying pigment. Remember starting at a Natural Level 6 and desiring a Level 10 is 5 levels of lift. Always consider using No Ammonia in with your Super Lighteners to create a Hybrid formula. 2-5 grams of a 6.01 or 8.11 will add considerable control to underlying pigment without disrupting the lifting action of the Super Lightener.

CREATIVE PIGMENT &INTENSIFIER TONE

Neutralizes orange underlying pigment

Neutralizes red underlying pigment

Neutralizes violet pigment in hair color, allowing the other pigments to be more reflective

Neutralizes yellow underlying pigment

Amplifies any red color

Amplifies any red or violet copper hair color

Amplifies any red or violet hair color

Soft lilac tone at Level 10. Neutralizes yellow at Level 9.Lilac Toner is Low Ammonia for deeper penetration intothe cortex with less fadeage and “warming up” between

salon visits. Lilac Toner will lift natural melanin, do notuse to tone highlights when the base is virgin hair.

Blue Creative Pigment

Green Creative Pigment

Yellow Creative Pigment

Purple Creative Pigment

Red Intensifier

Copper Intensifier

Violet Intensifier

Lilac Toner

EFFECT

CREATIVE PIGMENTS & INTENSIFIERS CHARTNOTE: The portion of the formula that is is Creative Pigment or Intensifier must include a mixing ratio of 1:2.

Example:If you add 10g of red intensifier you must add 20g of developer. If you are only adding a “Chocolate Chip”… no additional developer beyond the standard mixing ratio required.

Creative Pigments/Intensifiers Chart

4-12

Super Lightener Series

Two High Lift Shades:1) Low Ammonia 10.1/10A – High Lift Ash Blonde2) Low Ammonia 10.12/10AV – High Lift Ash Violet

Three Ultra Light Shades (provide 4 to 5 levels of lift starting at Natural Level 7):1) Low Ammonia 12.0/12N – Ultra Light Natural Blonde2) Low Ammonia 12.11/12AA – Ultra Light Intense Ash Blonde3) Low Ammonia 12.12/12AV – Ultra Light Ash Violet Blonde

USE INSTRUCTIONS:

• 1:2 Mixing Ratio with 30 or 40 volume developer recommended.• 40 volume developer needed when lifting from Natural Level 7.• Timing is 45-50 minutes for 30 volume developer.• Timing is 55-60 minutes for 40 volume developer.• Check every 15 minutes during processing.• Reduce timing for chemically relaxed hair and use 20 volume developer.• Not recommended for use on previously bleached hair Levels 9 and 10.

Levels of LiftThe High Lift Series will lift up to 3-4 levels. The Ultra Light Series will lift up to 4 levels. Add Clear Boost/Lift to add up to 1 additional level of lift.30 volume developer should be used for up to 3 levels of lift.40 volume developer should be used for up to 4 levels of lift.

Retouch MaintenanceFor maintenance, High Lift and Ultra Light shades should be applied only to new-growth virgin hair. Overlapping previously lightened hair may create a dull tonal quality. If mid-shaft and ends require a refresh, use a No Ammonia Color formula. If a color refresh is not necessary, coat the ends with one of the Beautifying Elixirs conditioners for protection and conditioning.

CLEAR BOOSTER LIFT & CLEAR SHINE/DILUTEEuforaColor Clear Booster Lift and Clear Shine Dilute provide colorists with the artistic tools necessary to customize formulas that will impact final results.

EuforaColor Low Ammonia Clear Booster LiftAdjust lightness within the chosen level or provide lift without tonal deposit.

• Mix 50% of the total color formula with Clear Booster Lift to 1.5 parts developer (1:1.5) to increase lift up to 1 level.

• When using in combination with High Lift colors or Super Lightener formulas, add up to 50% Clear Boost Lift into the total color formula with 2 parts of developer (1:2) to achieve 4 levels of lift in coarse or resistant hair, and 5 levels of lift in normal and fine hair.

• Can be used on artificially colored hair to lift through one level of color or as a gentle color remover.

• Can be used on its own on virgin hair with all developers, to create an on tone natural highlight with up to 4 levels of lift.

4-13

EuforaColor No-Ammonia Clear Shine/DiluteDiffuses color formula, resulting in up to one shade lighter. Also works as a permanent shine enhancer for end results.

• Mix 25% to 50% of a color formula with Clear Shine/Dilute to 1.5 parts developer (1:1.5) to adjust color level and tone down unwanted sharpness

(50% Clear Shine/Dilute will dilute the shade by 1 level allowing it to reflect 1 level lighter).

• Mix 50% Clear Shine/Dilute with No Ammonia formula to 2 parts 7 Volume Developer (1:2) to gloss/tone hair. Process for 20 minutes.

• Mix 1 part Clear Shine/Dilute with 2 parts 7 Volume Developer (1:2) for a radiant shine gloss. Process for 20 minutes.

UNIVERSAL CREAM DEVELOPERThe EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer family is designed to be precise in performance, and have exceptional versatility. With hair integrity in mind, buffering fatty acids and emollients from coconut and vegetable extracts work to support hair condition, softness and shine.

Available in 6 concentrations:

1) 7 Volume (2.1%)

2) 10 Volume (3%)

3) 15 Volume (4.5%)

4) 20 Volume (6%)

5) 30 Volume (9%)

6) 40 Volume (12%)

Universal Cream Developer VersatilityEuforaColor Universal Cream Developer is a “creative agent” in the formulation and processing. Based on mixing ratio and timing, colorists can:

• Cover resistant grey hair.• Create Permanent coverage formulas.• Work with High-Lift tints.• Create Demi-Permanent formulations.• Mix 1:1 with each other to create new volumes (½ 20 vol + ½ 30 vol = 25 vol).• Demi-Gloss or Tone.

4-14

Universal Cream Developer TimingColor levels, developers and timing are integral parts of the successful color formulation and end result. The relationship between what is in the tube of color and the developers function and timing is critical to a colorists success. Understanding the correlation between lift and deposit is an important consideration when formulating for each salon guest.

Remember, you must first KNOW the rules of hair color before you can ADJUST them. Here are the general guidelines:

7 Volume (2.1%) = 7 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 22 to 27 minutes (20 minutes to tone).

10 Volume (3%) = 10 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 25 to 30 minutes.

15 Volume (4.5%) = 15 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 30 to 35 minutes.




An easy way to remember these rules is to match the number of minutes to open the cuticle and create lift with the volume of the developer (e.g. 20 Volume = 20 minutes), and then add 15 to 20 minutes to your volume level number.

TONING SOLUTION DEVELOPERThe EuforaColor Toning Solution Developer is designed for use with No Ammonia Shades to tone pre-lightened hair and refresh existing color without lifting natural base.

• 5 Volume (1.5%) Ideal for bottle application, creating options for all hair types with softer results.

• Pre-measure Toning Solution Developer into application bottle prior to adding chosen shade formula. Shake vigorously to blend and apply to towel dried hair. Process up to 20 minutes, rinse thoroughly and seal with Color Elixir Professional Sealer (Step 2)

• Add 8 to 10 drops COLOR CONTROL to thicken formula when application with a bowl and brush is desired.

4-15

Exceptional ToolsEuforaColor features an army of tools to help every colorist achieve their best.

EuforaColor ScaleALWAYS measure color formulas for precise and predictable results. The EuforaColor scale can be set to measure in ounces or grams.

EuforaColor Bowl & Applicator BrushesThe EuforaColor Tint Bowl is deep enough for control and has a wide base to sit securely on any surface.

The three EuforaColor Applicator Brushes provide excellent control and saturation during color application. The Silicone Brushes are an excellent addition to any colorists tool kit.

EuforaColor Application BottleDesigned to be used with Toning Solution Developer.

EuforaColor KeyThe perfect tool to get every drop of color from the tube!

EuforaColor PATCH TESTA thorough patch test should always be conducted on new color guests, and when an existing repeat guest experiences sensitivity or health changes.

• Mix a small amount of the darkest formula that will be used in the color service.

• Apply formula directly to a clean dry area behind the ear or in the bend of the forearm at the elbow on the guest.

• Apply three layers and let dry.

• Do not wash the area for 48 hours.

• If no redness or irritation occurs after 48 hours, mark the guest salon record with the results and proceed with the service.

4-16

EuforaColor STRAND TESTA strand test should be conducted any time a colorist is working with a new guest or creating a dramatic change to an existing guests’ hair color. This step is critical as it will identify any potential issues with the hair during a regular color process. Many factors, such as metallic dye or medication changes, can alter final results. • Divide a ½ inch square section of hair at the bottom part of the crown and clip

surrounding hair out of the way.

• Mix a small amount of the formula intended for use, taking special care to use a reduced total amount of the exact mixing ratio being use for the overall service.

• Place a foil or plastic wrap barrier between the test strand and other hair pined out of the way.

• Fully saturate the test strand with the mixed formula.

• Check the test strand every 5 minutes up to the full processing time.

• Change formula if needed; record final results and any formulation changes needed on the guest salon record.

EUFORACOLOR ALOELITE™ LIGHTENERSEuforaColor offers two lightening options. Each are power-tools for colorists, providing flexibility and artistic freedom for any lightening service.

AloeLite Blue Bleaching PodsAn innovative non-swelling decolorizer option formulated in spill proof 10g/.35oz. individual pods designed for perfect portioning with every service. The proprietary Blue Bleaching Pods eliminate scooping and dust. The pre-portioned Blue Bleaching Pods allow for accurate mixing and help eliminate waste.

The AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pod material has moisturizing and conditioning properties, and may break down slowly when mixed with EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer (particularly in colder temperatures). Undissolved residual pod material in a formula can be used in the service, or scooped out with the end of a color brush and discarded.

AloeLite Cream LightenerA companion to powdered lightener with a cream consistency that is perfect for stay-put performance and application ease. AloeLite Cream Lightener is mineral oil based and therefore the ideal tool to gently remove direct dye from previously lightened hair.

4-174-17

AloeLite BenefitsContains Aloe for nourishment and hydration to stabilize the integrity of the hair.Provides up to 7 levels of immediate and controlled lift (6 with Cream Lightener).Neutralizes unwanted yellow tones and ensures excellent results with any lightening technique.

Balanced lifting power provides even lightening results.

Mixing DirectionsUsing a non-metallic bowl, add desired Universal Cream Developer to AloeLite of choice at a 1:2 mixing ratio (Blue Bleaching Pods can take up to 5 minutes to soften). Mix vigorously with a brush or non-metallic whisk.

MIXING EXAMPLE GENERAL USAGE GUIDELINE

1 Pod + 20g/.7oz. developer

2 Pods + 40g/1.4oz. developer

3 Pods + 60g/2.1oz. developer

1 Pod for partial lightening

2 Pods for half head lightening

3 Pods+ for full head lightening

Blue Bleaching Pod Mixing Chart

MIXING EXAMPLE GENERAL USAGE GUIDELINE

10g/.35oz. Lightener + 20g/.7oz. developer

20g/.7oz. Lightener + 40g/1.4oz. developer

30g/1.05oz. Lightener + 60g/2.1oz. developer

30g/1.05oz. total mix forpartial lightening

60g/2.11oz. total mix forhalf head lightening

90g/3.17oz. total mix forfull head lightening

Cream Lightener Mixing Chart

4-18

EuforaColor ADDITIVESGuarding against irritation, protecting the integrity of the hair strand and creating thicker consistency for controlled color and lightener application are all guaranteed when colorists use the EuforaColor Additive systems.

Chemical Treatment Pre-CleanseThe purpose of a pre-chemical service cleanse extends beyond simply removing dirt and oil for the hair. Most tap water contains minerals and heavy metals that can react with the hydrogen peroxide in developer. Copper, found in most tap water, can build up in the hair and is the biggest offender when it comes to reaction and irritation. Oxidative service sensitivity is common with color services, so colorists should always pre-cleanse the hair and scalp prior to any chemical service. Doing so will reduce irritation and adverse reactions. Eufora offers two solutions to a Chemical Pre-Cleanse Service.

Traditional Chemical Pre-Cleanse with Urgent Repair Shampoo (for excessive build up)

Urgent Repair Shampoo is a daily clarifying and restorative healing treatment shampoo that provides healthy hair and scalp benefits. This gentle, non-drying formula thoroughly removes damaging buildup caused by products, metals, chemicals, minerals and environmental pollutants while improving the health of the hair and scalp.Gently pre-cleanse at the shampoo bowl with Urgent Repair Shampoo and rinse thoroughly.

Towel dry and proceed with color application.

Chemical Pre-Cleanse with COLOR PREP SPRAY(for standard pre-cleanse)

COLOR PREP SPRAY is a pH balanced, pre-chemical service treatment that contains chelating agents to bind heavy metals deposited into the hair and greatly reduces irritation during the oxidative process. COLOR PREP SPRAY is designed to solubilize dirt and oil, stabilize peroxide and help reduce post service irritation.

Directions for Use:• Spray generously at the scalp in 1” to 1.5” sub-sections.• Mist through mid-shaft and ends to lightly dampen hair.• Gently brush the hair to pull away dirt and contamination, then proceed

with service.

4-18

EuforaColor ADDITIVESGuarding against irritation, protecting the integrity of the hair strand and creating thicker consistency for controlled color and lightener application are all guaranteed when colorists use the EuforaColor Additive systems.

Chemical Treatment Pre-CleanseThe purpose of a pre-chemical service cleanse extends beyond simply removing dirt and oil for the hair. Most tap water contains minerals and heavy metals that can react with the hydrogen peroxide in developer. Copper, found in most tap water, can build up in the hair and is the biggest offender when it comes to reaction and irritation. Oxidative service sensitivity is common with color services, so colorists should always pre-cleanse the hair and scalp prior to any chemical service. Doing so will reduce irritation and adverse reactions. Eufora offers two solutions to a Chemical Pre-Cleanse Service.

Traditional Chemical Pre-Cleanse with Urgent Repair Shampoo (for excessive build up)

Urgent Repair Shampoo is a daily clarifying and restorative healing treatment shampoo that provides healthy hair and scalp benefits. This gentle, non-drying formula thoroughly removes damaging buildup caused by products, metals, chemicals, minerals and environmental pollutants while improving the health of the hair and scalp.Gently pre-cleanse at the shampoo bowl with Urgent Repair Shampoo and rinse thoroughly.

Towel dry and proceed with color application.

Chemical Pre-Cleanse with COLOR PREP SPRAY(for standard pre-cleanse)

COLOR PREP SPRAY is a pH balanced, pre-chemical service treatment that contains chelating agents to bind heavy metals deposited into the hair and greatly reduces irritation during the oxidative process. COLOR PREP SPRAY is designed to solubilize dirt and oil, stabilize peroxide and help reduce post service irritation.

Directions for Use:• Spray generously at the scalp in 1” to 1.5” sub-sections.• Mist through mid-shaft and ends to lightly dampen hair.• Gently brush the hair to pull away dirt and contamination, then proceed

with service.

4-19

Oxidative Service Bond Protection SystemThere is a chemical reaction that occurs during any oxidative service that can cause damage to disulfide bonds in the hair. Traditional bond repair treatments were introduced to “repair damage” that had already occurred.

COLOR ELIXIR, with NAOPLEX™ Technology, a proprietary complex of supercharged natural antioxidants and vegetable proteins, protects bonds during the oxidative process of

a chemical service and prevents damage caused by free radicals.

COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1• Used during professional chemical services.• Protects the integrity of the hair.• Prevents oxidative damage caused by harmful free radicals.• Intensifies pigment delivery into the hair.

Directions for Use:• For color with 7 to 40 Volume Developer and Lightener with 7 to 20 Volume Developer, add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) per 30 grams of mixed formula. Stir to mix.• For Lightener with 30 or 40 Volume Developer, add 2 pumps (approximately 3 grams) per each 30 grams of mixed formula. Stir to mix.• For use with a Professional Waving System, add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) directly into waving solution (and neutralizer). Replace lid on applicator and shake to mix.

COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER – Step 2• Used after professional chemical services.

• Seals the hair, for a vibrant silky finish.• Restores hair structure and repairs residual damage.• Helps prevent color fadeage.• Restores pH.

Directions for Use:• After chemical service, shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly.• Apply 3 – 5 pumps evenly through hair.• Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly.• For use with a Professional Waving System, add 1 pump of PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE and PROFESSIONAL SEALER (approximately 1.5 grams of each) directly into neutralizer. Replace lid on applicator and shake to mix.

COLOR ELIXIR as an In-Salon Restorative Treatment

• Shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly.• Combine 1 part PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE with 2 parts PROFESSIONAL SEALER

and work through the hair from roots to ends.• Allow to penetrate for 7 – 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly.

4-20

POROSITY

Pure virgin hair, good elasticity, closed cuticle.

Healthy hair, no chemical treatments.

Formulate for texture and

less forporosity.

Pre-cleanse with COLOR PREP SPRAY – OR – Urgent Repair

Shampoo.

Pre-treat with Fortifi Keratin Repair.

COLOR ELIXIRS PROFESSIONAL

ADDITIVE in color formula.

COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL

SEALER.

Best Eufora Haircare Regimen for their

hair type.

Color Locking System (Sculpture and

Illuminate).

Stage 1

Slightly raised cuticle.

Still good elasticity.

Minimal chemical services.

Blow-dry every 2-3

days.

Must formulate for regrowth (natural hair)

and customize for increased porosity onmid-shaft and ends.

Pre-cleanse with COLOR PREP SPRAY – OR – Urgent Repair

Shampoo.Pre-treat with Fortifi

Keratin Repair.




SEALER.

Beautifying Elixirsor the best Eufora

Haircare Regimen for their hair type.


Illuminate).

Stage 2

Raised Cuticle, varying degrees

of porosity throughout the

hair strand.

Daily blow-dry and hot tools.

Repeated chemical services.

Careful consideration of all porosity

levels.

Formulate new growth, mid-

shaft and ends as it relates to the porosity at each of these

areas.

Pre-cleanse with Urgent Repair

Shampoo.

If ends resembleStage 4, pre-treat ends with Urgent Repair Treatment.





SEALER.

Beautifying Elixirs Shampoo &Conditioner,

Beautifying Elixirs Moisture Masque

(weekly) andElixir One.

Color Locking System

(Sculpture and Illuminate).

Stage 3

HAIR CONDITION

CAUSE HOW COLOR TAKES

PRE-COLOR TREATMENT

POST-COLOR TREATEMENT

Porosity Chart

4-21

POROSITY

Raised cuticle through mid-

shaft and ends.

Loss of cuticle in areas, poor

elasticity.

Over-processed chemically

treated hair.

Chlorine damage.

Overly exposed ends may

require color priming with

warmth before coloring.

At this stage,you are

balancing outcome

against hair condition.

Pre-treat hair with Beautifying Elixirs

Shampoo and Conditioner.





SEALER.

COLOR ELIXIRIn-Salon Restorative

Treatment (use under heat for 20 minutes,

cool then rinse).

Take Home:Beautifying Elixirs Moisture Masque, Beautifying Elixirs Leave-In Repair

Treatment and Elixir One.

Recommend COLOR ELIXIRS In-Salon

Treatments 2-3 weeks after color service.


Illuminate).

Stage 4

Complete loss of cuticle layer in

areas.

Breakage is obvious.

Excessive chemical services.

Over-processed lightening services.

Recommend COLOR ELIXIR

In-Salon Treatment and restorative at

home products for two weeks prior to color.

Pre-treat hair with Beautifying Elixirs

Shampoo and Conditioner.

Beautifying Elixirs Moisture Masque, Beautifying Elixirs Leave-In Repair


Reassess condition of hair and ensure

expectation/Outcomes arerealistic and

communicated to guest.

May require a small amount of Urgent Repair Treatment

left on mid-shaft and ends, apply color on

top of treatment.Pre-treat with Fortifi

Keratin Repair.



COLOR ELIXIRIn-Salon Restorative

Treatment (useunder heat for 20 minutes, cool then

rinse).

Take Home:Continue regimen of

Beautifying Elixirs Moisture Masque, Beautifying Elixirs Leave-In Repair


Recommend regular COLOR ELIXIR

In-Salon Treatments until significant

restoration of hair is apparent.


Illuminate)..

Stage 5

HAIR CONDITION

CAUSE HOW COLOR TAKES

PRE-COLOR TREATMENT

POST-COLOR TREATEMENT

Porosity Chart Continued

4-22

Color ThickenerColor thickening agents, traditionally, are formulated to work with either oxidative color OR direct dye.

COLOR CONTROL A universal thickener that works in lightener, oxidative color and direct dye. The unique formula provides instant thickening of any color formula for creative placement and reduces transference during processing to block bleeding. Coconut and Safflower Oils condition, moisturize and enhance shine. Aloe provides important nutrients, essential amino acids, moisture and legendary rejuvenation benefits necessary for optimum scalp and hair health.

Directions for Use:• Mix color formula• Add 10 to 20 drops of COLOR CONTROL to mixed formula• Blend to thicken

Clean Skin The gentle, convenient and quick solution for removing unwanted color stains from skin. These aloe infused wipes are non-irritating, biodegradable, convenient to use and economically sized to cleanse multiple areas of the skin with just one wipe.

Directions for Use:• Pull single wipe out past containers serrated edge and tear off at perforation.• Apply Clean Skin wipe to stained area and gently ruib away color and discard• Keep top closed to prevent product from drying out.

4-22

Color ThickenerColor thickening agents, traditionally, are formulated to work with either oxidative color OR direct dye.

EuforaColor COLOR CONTROL is a universal thickener that works in lightener, oxidative color and direct dye. The unique formula provides instant thickening of any color formula for creative placement and reduces transference during processing to block bleeding. Coconut and Safflower Oils condition, moisturize and enhance shine. Aloe provides important nutrients, essential amino acids, moisture and legendary rejuvenation benefits necessary for optimum scalp and hair health.

Directions for Use:• Mix color formula• Add 10 to 20 drops of COLOR CONTROL to mixed formula• Blend to thicken

Clean Skin The gentle, convenient and quick solution for removing unwanted color stains from skin. These aloe infused wipes are non-irritating, biodegradable, convenient to use and economically sized to cleanse multiple areas of the skin with just one wipe.

Directions for Use:• Pull single wipe out past containers serrated edge and tear off at perforation.• Apply Clean Skin wipe to stained area and gently ruib away color and discard• Keep top closed to prevent product from drying out.

4-23

4-2 FORMULATING WITH EUFORACOLOR

Every successful color formulation begins with a thorough consultation and evaluation. Conducting a thorough consultation enables the colorist to identify specific formulation needs to achieve the optimum final result.

The EuforaColor Recommended Pre-Color Consultation StepsStylists should thoroughly fill out the EuforaColor consultation form and keep a copy in their files. The guest should never fill out the consultation form independently as many of the topics require a conversation between the stylist and their guest.

a) MEDICAL HISTORYColorists should ensure the guest that the health and medication conversation is confidential. All information is pertinent to formulation and is strictly requested for that purpose. The purpose of the Medical History segment is to understand any potential issues with the success of the color service. Many medications can affect the hair strand and the final color outcome. A thorough pre-cleanse treatment is vital prior to any color service, but especially important when the guest is on medication as minerals can build up in the hair strand.

Medical Questions:• Are there any general health conditions you would like me to know about before

your color service? • What medications are you currently taking? • Do you have any allergies?

b) SPECIAL CONCERNSAre there any concerns the guest has that day about having their hair colored? This question is vital as it can help the colorist address any issues and reassure the guest about their color choices.

c) COLOR CONVERSATION – HAIR HISTORYHair History will help the colorist know if there are special precautions of formulations to be considered.

Hair History Questions:• What is the date of the guests last color service? • What brand of color was used? (this is very important) • How long did the guests color stay vibrant before noticeable fading? • What would the guest like improved with their current color? • Does the guest have hard water at home? • Has the guest traveled recently? • Does the guest swim regularly in a chlorinated pool?

NEW GUEST CONVERSATIONThese questions help the colorist determine the natural undertone of a guests’ hair.

New Guest Questions:• What color was the guest as a child? • At what age did the guests hair begin to darken?

4-24

NEW GUEST EVALUATION• Determine category of undertone (Dark Brown, Warm Brown, Soft Brown, Red). • What is the starting base level? • Is the hair virgin or previously colored? • Patch Test Result.

The colorist should then briefly discuss the condition of the hair with the guest and any potential challenges this may present. If the hair previously colored, the stylist should include the state of the color. It is also important that the colorist identifies with the guest at this point if they are doing a color correction.

REPEAT GUESTThe colorist must conduct a complete color consultation with every color service to determine if anything has changed with their guests’ hair, lifestyle or medicalcondition/medications since their last service.

d) DESIRED OUTCOME

• Level: _______• Tone: _______

At this point, the colorist needs to communicate very clearly with each guest any challenges they see in obtaining their guests desired result. The colorist should use swatches for visual impact and give honest information they will need to understand the change requested (i.e. transitioning from blonde to red, making drastic changes, difficult color corrections, how existing hair condition and porosity will affect final outcome, etc.).It is important to always let each guest know exactly what to expect.

e) DEPOSIT/LIFT

• Number of Deposit Levels: ____• Number of Lift Levels: _________• Percentage of Grey: __________• Natural Family Choice: ________• Underlying Pigment: ___________• Neutralize With: _______________• Enhance With: ________________• Developer Choice(s): _________• Special Effects: (Block Color: Zone 1,2,3,4, Highlights): _______

4-25

f) FORMULATION

• Formula 1: __________________________________________________• Formula 2: __________________________________________________• Formula 3: __________________________________________________• Formula 4: __________________________________________________

Include Low and No Ammonia identifiers (LA & NA), Developer, Measurement Grams and Timing.

g) FOLLOW UPThe colorist should give each guest a business card with instructions to call with any questions or concerns. They should also recommend a home care and styling regimen specific to their guests’ hair and service. Finally, the colorist should ask for referrals and pre-book their guests next reserved appointment.

THE BASIC RULES OF FORMULATIONThere are four basic rules for formulating hair color. To create beautiful professional color results, we must look at formulating a systematic approach.

Determine the natural base level you are starting with + the percentage of white hair• Use the natural swatches from the EuforaColor Swatch Book to determine the

guest’s natural level of lightness or darkness. To do so, isolate a section of clean dry hair from the back crown, hold it up so light passes through the hair and compare it to the Natural (.0/N) swatches.

• Always adjust the formula for hair that is over 50% grey. Un-pigmented hair is considered “cool” in tone. Using cool colors on grey hair will look like incomplete coverage. For depth, add warmth or golden tones to formula for guests with 50% grey hair. Use Intense Naturals on hair that is “resistant.” Men’s grey blending is an exception to this rule and will be discussed later in this chapter.

Determine the desired level• Consult with the guest to determine if they wish to be lighter, darker or to stay the

same level or just to change tone.• There are four achievable color result types with EuforaColor: 1) Lighten the natural hair 2) Darken the hair 3) Match existing natural level 4) Change tone

4-26

DETERMINE DESIRED TONE

Cool Hair Color• Cool hair colors have dominant blue, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, green or

yellow-green hues. • Cool Hair Color is generally described as ash toned.• Cool tones absorb light and can appear darker than the level at which they are

described.

Warm Hair Color• Warm hair colors have dominant red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange and yellow

hues.• Warm hair color can also be described as copper, auburn or gold.• Warm tones reflect light and may appear lighter than a natural or cool tone at the

same level.

Adjusting for Underlying PigmentAmmonia based oxidative hair color decolorizes (or lightens) the hairs’ natural pigment to create the pigment base for the new hair color. The new cosmetic color pigments are deposited into the cortex on top of the underlying pigment to create the final tone.

• The combination of the cosmetic color pigments and the underlying pigment create the new hair color.

• Understanding the exposed underlying pigment at each level and how to control its warmth is vital to successful color formulation.

• The underlying pigment exposed is ALWAYS WARM and the color formula needs to be adjusted to accommodate for that warmth if a cool or neutral final result is desired.

• There are only 3 actions that will take place when dealing with tonal adjustments: 1) Neutralize unwanted underlying pigment 2) Balance underlying pigment 3) Enhance underlying pigment

Determine the volume of developer needed to achieve desired lift and deposit• See Mixing Ratio Chart.• If lifting natural color, determine how many levels of lift are desired. This will

indicate which developer strength to use (7, 10, 15, 20, 30 or 40).• Remember – the existing natural level of the hair is considered the FIRST level of lift.

EXAMPLE: three levels of lift need to occur if the guest is a Natural Level 6 and wants to be a Level 8. Lift through Level 6, then through Level 7 and into Level 8 for solid results.

• If you are going from a lighter level (without grey) to a darker level, 10 volume is recommended to get maximum deposit.

Remember to ALWAYS pre-cleanse hair prior to any color service with COLOR PREP SPRAY or Urgent Repair Shampoo.

4-27

MIXOLOGYThe combination of developer and color controls the level of dye load (pigment), alkalizing agent and pH in a final formula. Using less Developer in a color formula increases the dye load, alkalizing agent, and raises the pH level. Using more developer in a formula dilutes the dye load, alkalizing agent, and lowers the pH level of the final formula.

The standard mixing ratio for EuforaColor is 1:1.5 (1 part color to 1.5 parts developer). This mixing ratio provides the recommended balance of dye load (pigment), alkalizing agent and pH for “normal” hair. This is for both Low and No Ammonia color (or a hybrid formula).

Here are a few exceptions:• Demi-Glossing or Toning – Use a No Ammonia formula with 7 or 10 volume

developer at 1:2 (use one level lighter than new growth formula when refreshing mid-shaft and ends).

• High-Lift or Ultra Light shades – Recommended mixing ratio is 1:2. However, when formulating with a level 12, Ultra Light shade, mixing ratio can be adjusted up to 1:3.

LOW AMMONIAAND NO AMMONIA

FORMULATIONS

5 & 7 Volume(1.5% & 2.1%)

10 Volume(3%)

Demi-PermanentGlossing or Toning

Demi-Permanent

VOLUME

1:2

1:2

MIXINGRATIO

Up to 20minutes

Up to 35minutes

TIMING

Sheer depositonly

Deposit only

RESULT

MIXING RATIOThe recommended mixing ratio for EuforaColor is 1:1.5 (one part EuforaColor to 1.5 parts Universal Cream Developer). That’s the rule.

Here’s are some exceptions to that rule:

4-28

MIXINGRATIO

EuforaColor Luminosity Chart

Yes

Yes

Yes*

No

Yes

Yes

No

Yes

Yes*

Less developerwill increase opacity

Standard EuforaColor Mixing Ratio

More developerwill dilute opacity

1:1

1:1.5

1:2

LOWAMMONIA

NOAMMONIA

HYBRID 50%>LA

REFLECTION/RESULT

HYBRID 50%>NA

Yes

Yes

Yes*

Yes* Yes Yes* More developerwill dilute opacity

1:3 Yes*

* Do not use this mixing ratio with Low Ammonia unless lift is desired. Do not use as toner on highlighted hair where natural hair remains uncolored. Ammonia at ANY Mixing Ratio will create LIFT.

COLOR APPLICATION

All-Over Color Application (Virgin and Darkening Previously Colored Hair)• Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants.• Apply the color starting ½ inch off the scalp and down the mid-shaft, through the

ends.• Process for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the level of developer used.• Remix a new color formulation and apply from the new growth area to the

previous application.• Process for an additional 25-30 minutes.• Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR

ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER.

NOTE: For a more natural appearance, the formula at the mid-shaft and ends should be 1 level lighter than the formula used on new growth. This should be taken into consideration when formulating. The above description works if the hair has normal porosity. If the hair is resistant, it is advised that the colorist use a higher volume developer for the mid-shaft and ends compared to the new growth formula.

Color Retouch Application• Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants.• Apply color from the new growth area to the line of demarcation.• Let process.

4-29

While the regrowth is processing, the colorist will need to choose from the following options for mid-shaft and ends. This outline is for a monochromatic color formulation.

• Coat the remaining hair with conditioner. This will prevent transference during the final rinse and will protect the overly porous ends.

• Mix up same formula at one level lighter than the new growth. Consider removing the .0 from the formula to avoid muddy ends.

• Mix up same formula with a different level of developer (if using 20 volume on the new growth to lift and deposit, use 7 or 10 volume to tone/refresh the mid-shaft and ends).

• Mix up same color formula with different developer ratio (1:2 instead of 1:1.5).• Use Clear Shine Dilute mixture for refreshing the hair.• Process to desired outcome.• Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR


RULE OF THUMB:

• If missing vibrancy, use 7 volume 1:2. • If missing vibrancy and tone, use 10 vol 1:2. • If missing more than 1 level of depth, vibrancy, and tone, use 10 vol 1:1.5.

Super Lightener Virgin Application• Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants.• Starting at the mid-shaft, evenly and thoroughly apply Super Lightener formula

through to the ends.• Allow to process adequately prior to new growth application.• Prepare the same formula, apply starting at the new growth area and then evenly

and thoroughly work the Super Lightener formula down to the mid-shaft area.

TIP: Add a VERY SMALL amount of a Creative Pigment to the Super Lightener formula to help control the final blonde result. The Lilac Toner will neutralize yellow.

Toner Application• Use No Ammonia formula with 7 volume developer (1:2) when refreshing mid-shaft

and ends.• Porosity changes in the mid-shaft and ends. Prepare the hair with Nourish Fortifi

Keratin Repair and then apply the toner.• Process up to 20 minutes.• Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR


4-30

Level Name

LightestNatural Blonde Pale Yellow

Yellow

Orange-Yellow

Orange

Orange-Red

Red-Orange

Red

Dark Red

Darkest Red

Pale Violet

Violet

Blue-Violet

Blue

Blue-Green

Green-Blue

Green

Dark Green

Darkest Green

Pale Gold

Gold

Gold-Copper

Copper

Copper-Red

Red-Copper

Red

Dark Red

Darkest Red

None

10.3/10G

9.3/9G

8.3/8G

7.3/7G + 7.4/7C

6.3/6G + 6.4/6C + 6.6/6R

6.3/6G + 5.4/5C + 5.6/5R

4.4/4C + 5.4/5C + 4.6/4R

4.4/4C + 4.6/4R

None None None None

Very LightNatural Blonde

LightNatural Blonde

MediumNatural Blonde

DarkNatural Blonde

LightNatural Brown

MediumNatural Brown

DarkNatural Brown

DarkestNatural Brown

Black

Tone ExposedWhen Lifting

NeutralizingBase

EnhancingBase

Color Priming (Porous)Based on 25g of Color

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

COLOR PRIMINGWhen a guest requests their hair be darkened more than two levels from their existing previously lightened hair, the colorist must first fill the hair with the missing color pigments for the new level. This is referred to as Color Priming. As learned in Chapter 4 of this encyclopedia, natural pigment is removed from the hair during the lightening process in order to reach the desired light shade. Those pigments must be added back to the hair to create the desired richly deep new level. Remember, the natural melanin in hair is warm, so a warm tone must be added at one level lighter than the desired color to provide depth.

Example:The current pre-lightened hair is a Level 8 Light Natural Warm Blonde and the guesthas requested to be a Level 5 Light Natural Brown:

• Color Prime the hair with Low Ammonia 6.03/6NG 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes.

• Rinse and towel dry do not shampoo.• Apply final color formula using No Ammonia 5.0/5N with 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:1.5) and process for 20-35 minutes.

Note: Overly porous hair will require additional warm tones when color priming.

EuforaColor Level Chart

4-31

NATURAL SERIES IDENTIFIER

Natural

Natural Warm

Natural Ash

Intense Natural

.0/N (green/blue)

.03/NW (green/blue/gold)

.01/NA (blue/green)

.00/IN (green/blue)

When multiple levels of color must be replaced (more than 3 levels) you must Color Prime for every 2 layers of missing pigment.

Example:The current pre-lightened hair is a Level 9 Very Light Blonde and the guest has requested to be a Level 4 Medium Copper Brown:

• Color Prime the hair with equal parts No Ammonia 7.3/7G + 7.4/7G and 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes.

• Rinse and towel dry hair.• Color Prime the hair (2nd layer) with Low Ammonia 5.3/5G + 5.4/5C + 5.6/5R

(balance formula for desired reflective outcome) and 7 or 10 volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes.

• Rinse and towel dry hair.• Apply final color formula using No Ammonia 4.4/4C with 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:1.5) and process for 20-35 minutes.

GREY COVERAGEEuforaColor provides four Natural Series Families for unsurpassed Grey Coverage.

Unpigmented hair, more commonly known as grey hair, lacks warmth. Even when the desired outcome is a cool tone, if the guests’ hair is 50% grey (or greater), the colorist should add as little as 3 grams of a warm tone to the formula. This will replace the missing underlying pigment of the desired level, providing a fuller, richer final outcome. If warmth is not added, the final outcome may appear “hollow,” and coverage may be compromised. This is especially important when the color lives in Levels 8 and up.

Example:The underlying pigment at Level 8 is yellow-orange. With grey coverage, add up to 3 grams of 8.03/8NW for depth.

EuforaColor Natural Series

4-32

Formulating for Grey HairWhen lift or resistant grey coverage is required, formulate as follows:

• Use 50% or GREATER Low Ammonia Color.• Use 50% or LESS of No Ammonia Color.• Use 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (20 Volume when using the Intense

Natural Series).

Always consider using a Hybrid Formulation over a Low Ammonia color on its own. Hybrid formulation provides superior results compared to Low Ammonia used on its own.

When deposit only (no lift) is required, formulate as follows:

• Use No Ammonia Color.• Use 15 Volume Universal Cream Developer.

GREY COVERAGE/BLENDING FORMULATION STEP-BY-STEP CHECK LIST:

Grey Coverage (25% to 50% grey)• Use 25% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base

formula.• Formulate the remaining formula with the desired tone.

Grey Coverage (over 50% grey)• Use 50% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base

formula.• Formulate the remaining formula with the desired tone.

Grey coverage (over 70%)• Use 50% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base

formula.• Drop base Natural Family shade one level.

Example: if the target level is 6, use a Natural Series Level 5 formula

• Formulate the desired tone at the target level.

Grey blending• Use No Ammonia Natural Ash (.01/NA) or Intense Ash (.11/AA) as the base formula. NOTE: Using No Ammonia color for Grey Blending prevents lift and exposed

unwanted warmth during processing.• Use 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2).

Resistant Grey Solutions

Resistant Grey Coverage requires some degree of warmth• Using a Natural Warm (.03/NW) allows for natural warmth with control.

4-33

Decrease Mixing Ratio• 1:1 increases the concentration of pigment in the formula when using Low Ammonia

Color and a Hybrid formula.• Increase timing to 45 minutes for maximum deposit.• Pre-Soften Resistant Grey Hair.

• Use a Natural Warm shade (.03/NW) one level lighter then desired end result.• Apply to the area (do not use developer) and process for 15 minutes.• Wipe off pre-softening shade and apply desired formula directly over the

previous application.• Process final formula for 35 minutes to ensure grey coverage.

Intense Natural Series (.00/IN)• This intensely-pigmented color series is specifically designed for resistant grey

coverage.• Intense Natural shades are ½ level darker than the other Natural Series Shades.

Example: 4.00/4IN is ½ shade darker than 4.0/4N

Always use 20 vol. developer (Not designed to be used with higher developer than 20. This optimizes all pigments in this double pigment formula and may create excessive warmth). Increase developing time to 45 min.

TROUBLESHOOTING REDS

Reds are best created with the use of higher volume developer. The extra oxygenation from a higher volume developer allows for maximum pigment optimization.

THE MAXIMUM POTENTIAL OF RED SHADES:

Red Level 6Copper Level 7Gold Level 8

Reds Lacking VibrancyMany times lackluster red tones are a result of overly porous or fine hair. This type of hair has a tendency to reject red/warm tones and can grab “darker and drabber” colors.

SOLUTIONS (Options):• Use the Copper family for improving the red tonality.• Always use No Ammonia color when depositing color back into hair (results will be

richer and fuller with less fading).• Use Creative Pigments to enhance the color.• Use Blue or Purple Creative Pigment to provide a deeper richer tone.• Use Yellow Creative Pigment or Orange Intensifier to a red formula for a brighter

and lighter looking red.• Use Low Ammonia Color and Developer to involve Underlying Pigment, anchoring

in red tones and giving the support needed.• Pigment Layering is the application of a second color layer designed to seal in red.

Pigment Layer with a second shade using 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer at a 1:2 mixing ratio, process for 20 minutes to provide a “top coat” to lock down color.

4-34

Gold BandsGold bands usually occur when there is more than ½ inch of regrowth from the previous color. Heat from the scalp will process the first half in of new growth lighter than the next half inch, causing “bands,” of color.

SOLUTION:• Apply color ½ inch away from the scalp up to the line of demarcation when there is

a large regrowth area.• Allow color to develop 5 to 10 minutes.• Apply color to the scalp area and let process normally.• To avoid Gold Bands in the future, remind guests that High Lift colors require a 4-6

week maintenance schedule.

Hot RootsHot Roots can be caused by improper application and formulation. During a new growth (virgin) application, heat from the scalp can cause red to develop brighter.

SOLUTIONS (Options):• Follow the Gold Band application solution if new growth is more than ½ inch.• Lower the Developer Volume level for the base (scalp) formula.• Add a Natural Warm (.03/NW) to the new growth (scalp) formula and a regular

red formula for the mid-shaft and ends (this is especially true for grey coverage).

NOTE: Overly processed ends may not hold warmth, creating the illusion of Hot Roots on the healthier new growth area – even if the new growth area develops to the target shade.

Brassy Cast or Too Much WarmthA brassy cast can be the result of any of four issues:

1) Improper formula selection2) Attempting to lighten from too dark of a base (therefore not lifting light

enough to accept the desired toner) 3) Improper timing and/or application4) Fading due to environmental factors

SOLUTION:• Use the same level or a darker level of Natural Ash (.01/NA) with 7 to 10 Volume

Universal Cream Developer.

Green CastA green cast can be the result of two issues:

1) Not adding enough Natural or Natural Warm to the formula when coloring porous grey or overly bleached hair

2) Failing to Color Prime when darkening more than two levels

SOLUTIONS (Options):• Create a warmer formula to prevent a greenish (or ash) result for the mid-shaft and ends.• Color Prime when dropping the level more than two levels.

“Muddy” EndsMuddy or dull ends can be alleviated by “cleaning off” the mid shaft and ends.

4-35

SOLUTIONS (Options):• Color wash the mid-shaft and ends with AloeLite™ Blue Bleaching Pods and water, 7 Volume or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer until underlying pigment

begins to be revealed.• Use a higher volume developer for the ends.• Use the target red tone selected without a natural color on the ends.

Example: If your formula is .0/N and .3/G for the base, refresh the mid-shaft and ends without the .0/N in the formula with 7 to 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (do not use Natural in the formula)

MEN’S COLOR

Men’s color is a quickly growing service category in the salon. Most men who go to the salon for color services want natural looking color that covers/blends grey, doesn’t fade warm and grows out seamlessly. Men DON’T want color that fades to red or orange and don’t want color services that take too long.

EuforaColor is ideal for the male color client because the Micro Molecular Technology enables the colorist to customize their mixing ratio depending on the desired final result. The recommended grey coverage EuforaColor shades for men’s color services are:

• No Ammonia .01/NA Natural Ash Shades• No Ammonia .11/IA Intense Ash Shades

No Ammonia Shades are the perfect solution for men’s grey coverage and grey blending as there is minimal lift during processing so less underlying pigment is exposed.

EuforaColor offers the flexibility of coverage through an innovative use of mixing ratio, processing time and choice of the best Universal Cream Developer for perfect results.

PERMANENT COVERAGE

1:1.5 Mixing Ratio 15 Volume Universal Cream Developer

Up to 20 Minutes

DEMI-PERMANENT COVERAGE (grey blending)

1:1.5 Mixing Ratio 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer

10 Minutes

COLOR GLOSSING (to neutralize yellow tone)

1:2 Mixing Ratio 7 Volume Universal Cream Developer

10 Minutes

Men’s Color Mixing Ratio & Timing Guide

4-36

COLOR REMOVAL

There are times when color needs to be removed without wanting to dramatically lighten the hair. This would occur if color has been over deposited or if there is remaining tone that needs to be removed (staining).

EuforaColor has three recommendations for color removal:

Color Wash: Use Blue Bleaching Pods to remove color that has been over pigmented or has faded with remaining tone.

1) Mix Blue Bleaching Pods with water for light stain removal.2) Mix Blue Bleaching Pods with 7, 10 or 20 volume developer for excess color

removal.3) NEVER decolorize beyond pale yellow as the hair will not be able to receive color

pigment for toning.

Low Ammonia Clear Booster Lift + 30 Volume Developer: This formula will provide ½ to 2 levels of lift depending on the pigment to be lifted. Generally, for over deposit, it will be able to lift 1 level.

4-3 EuforaColor DIRECT DYE TECHNOLOGY EuforaColor ARTISAN Direct Dye provides colorists with 12 direct dye shades creating the perfect artists pallet to innovate, imagine and create a masterpiece.

Sunflower Yellow

Aloe Green

Red Rose

Blue Sky

Sterling Silver

Crystal Clear

Citrus Orange

Purple Iris

Pink Peony

Teal Waters

Cloud White

Black

4-37

ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES PROVIDE UNSURPASSED SHINE.

• Aloe Vera, rich in amino acids, provides nutrients, moisture and rejuvenation benefits.

• Jojoba Oil soothes, smooths and moisturizes hair.• Beeswax provides lubrication and hydration.• Sunflower Oil is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin E for protection and wellness.

ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES BLEND PERFECTLY.

• Micro Molecular Technology allows for complete compatibility between shades.• A heavy dye load in each tube provides unsurpassed coverage and brilliance.

ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES HAVE A NEUTRAL PH.

• A neutral pH protects the integrity of the hair strand, promoting bolder coverage with reduced transference.

ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES HAVE A POSITIVE IONIC CHARGE.

• Drawn to negative ionic sites in the hair for longer wear

Directions for Use

Artisan Shades provide optimum brilliance with EuforaColor direct dye technology. Artisan Shade vibrancy will last up to 12 shampoos when used harmoniously with the EuforaColor ELIXIR SYSTEM and Color Locking System.

Achieving Optimum Brilliance

Pre-Lighten to Level 9 – 10 for maximum vibrancy of• Purple Iris• Pink Peony• Blue Sky• Sterling Silver

Pre-Lighten to Level 8 for maximum vibrancy of• Sunflower Yellow• Citrus Orange• Aloe Green• Red Rose• Teal Waters• Cloud White can be used in any blend or as a toner to eliminate warm tones in blonde or grey hair• Crystal Clear can be used alone as a gloss, or can be mixed with other Artisan Shades to dilute vibrancy• Artisan Black can be used to create a level shift or darken any blended shade• All Artisan Shades can be used to “float” over mid-shaft and ends to refresh color and create shine

4-38

Artisan Application

• Pre-cleanse hair with Urgent Repair Shampoo. Rinse thoroughly, towel dry then blow dry 100%.• Add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) of COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE (Step 1) for every 30 grams of Artisan Shade.• Section hair and saturate each section thoroughly with desired Artisan Shade (or Artisan Blend).• Process for 30 minutes (no heat required or recommended).• Rinse Thoroughly with warm water.• Apply 3 – 5 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER (Step 2) and work through the hair from root to ends.• Allow to penetrate for 7 – 10 minutes.• Rinse thoroughly and towel dry.• Apply the EuforaColor Locking System and work through hair.• Style as desired.• Do NOT use hot tools for 24 hours after application.

Tips and Tricks

• Do NOT condition hair prior to application – this will block negatively charged areas of the hair shaft.• Always prepare the hair with COLOR PREP SPRAY to remove positively charged metals.• Always use COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE (Step 1) in your formula and PROFESSIONAL SEALER (Step 2) before the final rinse.• Adding COLOR CONTROL to a formula helps prevent excessive transference of color during processing.• Beautifying Serum helps block transference to “non-Artisan” hair during rinsing.• AloeLite Cream Lightener is recommended for removal (mix 1:2 with 7 to 20 volume Universal Cream Developer).

4-39

AloePlexTM Professional Waving SystemThis Thioglycolic Acid and Ammonia Free waving system s strong enough to get the job done, yet gentle enough to protect every clients’ hair hailth. Available in normal and tinted formulas.

Key ingredients in the AloePlexTM Professional Waving System

• Panthenol for strength and shine.• Botanical Extracts of Chamomile, Rosemary, White Chestnut and Nettle for their

proven benefits, promoting scalp and hair health.• Natural Oils for fragrance.• Pharmaceutical grade Aloe Vera Juice with 22 essential amino acids required for

healthy skin rejuvenation and soothing

section 4 eufora professional euforacolor...4-6 aloe vera rich in amino acids, the building blocks...

Documents