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Secret Waterfalls of Marin-Volume 2

Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes - Photo by Phil Arnot Copyright 2005 © by Michael McCarthy and Intentional-Traveler.com - Email us at: [email protected] text or photos can be reproduced for commercial use without express consent of the author. Produced by Tom Schueneman at TouristTravel.com

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Secret Waterfalls Volume Two

Introduction.............................................................................................................. 3 Notes on the contents ............................................................................................ 3 Hiking etiquette....................................................................................................... 4 Winter picnics ......................................................................................................... 5 Safety tips .............................................................................................................. 6 Hiking with kids....................................................................................................... 6 Hiking with dogs ..................................................................................................... 7 Mileages and distance............................................................................................ 7

Part 1: Eastern Marin County Falls......................................................................... 8 Bootjack Trail ............................................................................................................. 8 Kent Canyon Falls.................................................................................................... 10 Cascade Falls, Mill Valley ........................................................................................ 12 Little Pacheco Canyon ............................................................................................. 14 The Inkwells ............................................................................................................. 16 Part Two; Pt Reyes Hikes...................................................................................... 17 Pelican Falls ............................................................................................................ 18 Alamere Falls ........................................................................................................... 19 Phantom Falls .......................................................................................................... 21 Horsetail Falls .......................................................................................................... 22 Kelham Beach Cascade .......................................................................................... 23 Surprise Falls ........................................................................................................... 24 The Showerbaths at Secret Beach .......................................................................... 25 The Unknown Coast - Perennial Fall, Ribbon Falls and Seasonal Falls .................. 27

About Phil Arnot ................................................................................................... 31 Hiking Links.......................................................................................................... 32

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Introduction Welcome to Secret Waterfalls of Marin Volume Two. Since Volume One was published in early January 2005, many more hidden waterfalls have come to our attention. The following list is by no means a complete roundup of all the waterfalls in Marin; there are still more to come. Feel free to send in tips to other waterfalls not listed here. One thing most these of waterfalls have in common, however, is that they are seasonal. They only spring to life after heavy rains and then disappear, some vanishing in a few weeks or months. All vary in size and volume depending on the day you find them and how long it’s been since there was any rain. Waterfalls are much like rainbows or spring wildflowers in that regard. They are magical visual delights that must be appreciated during their own season. In Marin, that means January and February for all waterfalls, sometimes right through to early summer in June for others depending on location and source of water. In every instance, the best time to see these waterfalls is just after a heavy rain. The Pt Reyes secret waterfalls in Volume Two are supplied courtesy of Phil Arnot of Lagunitas. Phil has been exploring Pt Reyes for over 50 years and has managed to compile an amazing list of hidden falls that are virtually unknown to the public. There is a reason for their near invisibility. Some must be accessed via sea caves, most of them at minus tides, via long hikes or by difficult beach access. Great care must be taken in planning to visit these wild and secret places of Pt Reyes. For full descriptions of these and other amazing Pt Reyes hikes, it is best to purchase copy of Phil’s remarkable book Point Reyes; Secret Places and Magic Moments, revised edition 1992, published by Wide World Publishing. The book is available online but is no longer available for sale in stores. The book contains detailed information about finding sea caves, wild beaches, cliffs, waterfalls and other hikes to unknown areas of Pt Reyes. Notes on the contents In creating this document I have attempted to list every waterfall in Marin of which I am aware, but I have not yet visited and verified every waterfall contained in this booklet. Some seasonal waterfalls I have recently learned about from other hikers; others that I have already seen I will re-visit and photograph. All of the waterfalls listed here contain fairly reliable directions. Those few that I have not yet personally verified have been indicated as such in the text.

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More waterfalls and photographs will be freely supplied in the future. Please check back tohttp://www.intentional-traveler.com time to time. Feel free to send in clear and easy-to-follow directions to other waterfalls that you have visited that are not listed here. If you have a photograph of that site, please include it. Photo credits and story bylines will be given to all contributors. Hiking etiquette When visiting these waterfalls, make sure that you park legally and strictly observe the rules of proper hiking. That is, whatever you bring in, you bring out. Leave nothing behind but footprints, and whenever possible limit the damage of any footprints. Wear proper hiking boots or waterproof walking shoes and stay on the marked trail. If it’s muddy when you go, simply stop every once in a while and scrape the mud off. Stepping off the marked trail on to grass widens the path and alters the topography for many months. I rarely see anybody on these secret trails. Other well-known waterfalls, of course, get lots of foot traffic, so I feel at ease sharing all these off-the-beaten-track waterfalls. Another local columnist wrote a feature a few years ago extolling the virtues of Carson Falls (the trailhead starts just off the Fairfax-Bolinas Road; see the chapter list above) and on the week following his column I joined a giant cavalcade of hikers who, like me, had obviously read this interesting column and decided to enjoy the beauty of those falls. Unfortunately the great crush of hikers forced some people off the trail and tramped the meadows into mush; I was dismayed to see entire families – including children with inappropriate footwear and no instruction in hiking etiquette – trying to avoid the muddy path, and turning much of the meadows into a quagmire in the process. To the residents of certain neighborhoods with whom I have spoken during my numerous trips to look for hidden waterfalls, I apologize if I am ruining the secrecy. It is clear that some residents are very possessive about the wonderful gifts that nature has bestowed upon Marin County, but I think we are all put on this earth to enjoy its beauty, fresh air, clean water and sparkling skies. I encourage everybody to experience and enjoy the outdoors and these waterfalls; Marin County is one of the most beautiful regions on the entire planet and should be appreciated by everyone. But remember. Always park legally, never block the road, keep to the path, and leave nothing behind. Even footprints. Note: Do not trust these directions or any hiking books for exact hiking instructions. Bring along a good topographic map of your own if you are heading into the deep woods or taking hikes with multiple trailheads. It’s easy to get lost following other people’s directions. Times and distances in this booklet are approximate.

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Winter picnics One of the secrets of enjoying winter hiking, and winter picnics especially, lies in knowing what to wear and what extras to bring with you. This not only means wearing a pair of hiking boots or waterproof walking shoes (always plan to get wet) but toting along the proper food and drink. Unlike summer, when it’s sunny and hot and you want shade and relaxation, winter hiking involves being cold and getting wet. Don’t let that stop you from enjoying these waterfalls, though. The day after a mighty deluge is the best time to catch the runoff that causes waterfalls; even if it is raining when you go simply by wearing the proper clothing you can avoid the irritation of water in your eyes, down your back or up your boots. The old cliché for Bay Area weather is “dress in layers.” I advise a light, waterproof jacket with a shirt and sweater underneath. If a brisk walk warms you up, just take off the sweater and put it in your pack. As soon as you cool down, put it back on. A heavy raincoat can be an annoyance, and if you open it up because you’re hot the rain or wind can soak you. Plan to stay dry; bring a waterproof shell, a hood or cap, and proper footwear. Unless you are walking fifty feet, don’t bring a picnic basket or any bag that is heavy or requires the use of your hands. Select a small (waterproof) rucksack and put your food and extra clothing in it. Instead of reaching your destination and spreading out your lunch on the ground or on a picnic table and settling down for a feast, winter picnics are best enjoyed by munching and nibbling as you go along. Plan ahead; I always treat myself with an advance trip to the grocery store to select small amounts of luxury nibblies I would normally never buy. Nuts, for instance, are great for munching along the trail and very filling. I stoke up on cashews, filberts and almonds. Pure milk chocolate, broken into small chunks, is a wonderful treat for the kids. Fruits, like bananas and apples, fit nicely into outside pockets and can be easily reached. Of course, a “trail mix” containing nuts, seeds and dried fruit can be purchased almost anywhere. If you plan to work up a sweat, put a sandwich in your outer pocket where you can reach it. On reaching your destination, whip a hot thermos of soup, tea or hot chocolate. Personally I find that hot mushroom soup is a guaranteed winner on a cold winter’s day; pour small servings into the lid of the bottle and savor the taste as you savor the sight of a thundering wall of water. A reminder that “chunky soup” doesn’t pour very well at all. Bottled water, of course, is always a must. Finally, don’t forget your camera.

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Safety tips Winter hiking is always wet hiking. Do NOT go hiking in sneakers or street shoes. You will always regret it. In virtually all the hikes in this booklet you must hop, skip or jump across small creeks, step in mud and puddles, or otherwise get your feet wet. Then there is always the more dangerous aspect of slipping or falling when crossing a creek in shoes with poor tread. Make sure you have good traction with your shoes or boots before heading out. Sneakers just don’t work, and they don’t provide the necessary ankle support needed for jumping over rocks. When crossing deep creeks you will have to use rocks or logs as steppingstones. Do not assume that a rock, even if it has obviously been placed there, is necessarily stable. Unless it’s a boulder, test the rock out for a half-second before putting your full weight on it. Water is constantly moving and may dislodge even big stones that were once secure. If children, the elderly or folks with poor balance are crossing a log or creek, it’s best to lead them by the hand. The same rule applies on muddy hillsides and steep paths; better safe than sorry. Single hikers should let others know their destination and estimated time of return. A sprained or broken angle will not only ruin your day but an overnight stay in the woods in the cold of winter can be fatal. When hiking, enjoy the view frequently but always stop walking while you do it. Walking while looking at the view adds up to a dangerous mix, especially on heights or in muddy conditions. Relax, take your time, and stop when there is a view or camera shot. If you ever feel a hill or section of trail is not safe to climb, simply turn around. It’s never a good idea to get hurt miles from emergency help. Hiking with kids Children will always enjoy a walk in the woods much more if they can stop and play along the way. Don’t be in a big hurry. Little boys will want to throw rocks in the water and little girls may want to pick spring flowers. Build these constant interruptions into your advance schedule. The first time I saw a little girl fully equipped with knee high rubber boots and a rain slicker with attached hood, playing in the pool near the bottom of a waterfall (it was on a sunny day and there was really no need for raingear) I congratulated the mother for her claver advance planning. The little girl was in heaven, splashing about like she was at the beach. My own son watched with envy in his leather boots while the girl waded through the creek. Plan ahead. If you let your child play in the water, remember to keep a sharp eye or hand on them at all times, especially near the top of a waterfall. It’s probably a good idea to

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have kids refrain from climbing rocks and cliffs too. What is an easy climb on a warm summer day can be greasy and slippery in the winter. Planning in advance also means bringing a separate pair of comfy shoes or slippers for kids (and parents) to wear in the car on the way home. Maybe even a different coat. Ruining your car with dirt or mud on the way home can ruin a good hike. Save a final snack or bottle of water to savor on the way home too. Hiking with dogs Legally speaking, dogs are permitted ‘off leash’ on fire roads, and ‘on leash’ on trails and paths while under voice command. Dog owners must have a leash for each dog. However, I think it would be better for all concerned if all dogs were always kept on a leash when hiking. The scent of wild animals may cause some dogs to “spook,” and dogs running wild can annoy other hikers. Dogs will also “mark their territory” wherever they go, running off the trail into woods and frightening the smaller wild animals that live there away from their homes. Rabbits, for instance, are seldom seen near trails in Marin anymore. Small children are often afraid of big dogs too, no matter how friendly their owners say those dogs are. Many “friendly dogs” will jump up on friendly strangers and lay their muddy paws on their new friend’s clothes, an unfortunate event that has happened to me more times than I can remember. A dog on a leash is a dog under control. A reminder to always clean up after your dog too; if you bring a dog on a walk in the woods, bring baggies. There is nothing more distasteful than stepping in dog feces in the woods and it doesn’t make many friends with non-dog hikers either. Certain kinds of modern dog food do not decompose quickly. Leave no trace of your visit, whether it is you or your dog. Mileages and distance I don’t know anybody who hikes with a pedometer, therefore distances on foot are measured by time or by distance approximations. (i.e. “10 minutes walk, or a half mile until the junction.”) All walks are taken a medium speed, not allowing for stoppages. Distances driven in a car are measured more exactly when possible. Whenever possible directions are given via signposts or immoveable objects like bridges. Generally speaking it is very hard to get lost on any of these hikes if you keep on the trail. If you get lost, it is always best to stay where you are rather than to keep walking.

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Part 1: Eastern Marin County Falls

Bootjack Trail Steep Ravine Trail just to the west of Bootjack Trail on the south slopes of Mt. Tamalpais has been described by many as the “most beautiful coastal canyon in all of California”. Whether that is true or not I don’t know. What I do know is that I think Bootjack Trail is its equal, and – if you are going strictly by the number of waterfalls – it has no equal in Marin County. From Highway 101 take the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach exit and follow the Panoramic Highway twelve miles towards the Pantoll Ranger Station. About half a mile before Pantoll you’ll come across Bootjack trailhead, picnic area and parking lot. It’s $6 to park here, but you don’t have much choice. There are 2 or 3 free parking spots on the highway just past the parking lot (on the south side of the road), otherwise it’s “no parking anytime” along the Panoramic Highway

in this area. The trailhead is well equipped with toilets and drinking fountain. Put your money in the envelope and consider it the best money you’ve ever spent. The trail starts across the highway, well marked witallowed” sign, a sign that I have found to be universever hiked. The sign shows its 2.7 miles to Muir Wor a 5-mile return hike on a very steep trail. Luckilyentire distance. It’s only half a mile to Van Wyck Mbegins. Initially Bootjack descends steeply via a series of swcrossing over feeder creeks. Immediately you compointing to Pantoll Ranger Station; keep going straiand can hear a creek running somewhere on your lsteep section has lots of stairs built into the hillside across a signpost for Troop 80 Trail on your left. Keat Van Wyck meadows. Its about fifteen minutes to

A waterfall in deep and dark Redwood Canyon

h a sign. Note the “no dogs ally ignored on every trail I have

oods at the bottom of the canyon, there is no need to hike the eadow, where the trail really

itchbacks, with little bridges e across a sign on your right ght. You are in deep woods now eft but you can’t see it. This to aid with footing. You come ep going and soon you’ll arrive get to this point.

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Van Wyck is a popular resting spot, where a giant boulder in the middle of a small meadow allows for a hiker to wait for others to catch up, or to get your bearings. From here signs point to Stapleveldt Trail to the west. Take a minute and meander over here, where a little bridge crosses Redwood Creek. This is your first sighting of the creek, and a series of tiny waterfalls. Trails head in several directions. Take care to follow the sign, heading straight downhill, to Muir Woods. Immediately the trail drops like a stone down a steep chute of stairs, the creek on your right tumbling over a series of huge boulders that form a series of small pools and tiny waterfalls. Huge redwood trees block out the sun, and many have fallen across the creek, making this section of trail reminiscent of Steep Ravine Trail. There are lots of tiny waterfalls following recent rains, and several little bridges. This is a wonderful section of trail. Stop and enjoy the patterns of sunlight dancing across the creek and through the majestic trees. Next you cross Redwood Creek itself on a bridge where there are several small falls visible. The creek is now on your left, and the trail drops steeply. Immediately you’ll notice a section of creek where the water drops 100 feet in a series of falls, but unfortunately you cannot get close to the creek here. Take great care if you try to get close for a photo that you don’t lose your footing; the canyon is steep and full of redwood duff and loose roots. There is a small side path that leaves the main trail to get closer to the canyon where you can see a nice 30-foot fall. It is very deep and dark here in this redwood canyon. From here the path veers right into the woods, away from the creek, but take heart; the best is yet to come. You can hear Redwood Creek roaring in the woods but you can’t get close to it. Be patient. Magically a bench appears in the middle of the woods; sit down a moment and catch your breath. The trail then does a big loop through the woods and drops steeply down. Soon the view opens up to show Redwood Canyon far below on your right. Voila! There it is, a scene out of Kaui! A series of cataracts bounds and dances down the rainforest canyon and at the bottom is another large bridge, where you pause and glory at the wonders of nature. Waterfalls dance before and behind you. There are waterfalls galore, too many to count. Cross the bridge and descend further, this time with the creek on your right. There is a small side trail that accesses the stream, with a huge boulder upon which to sit and watch the show. Further down the trail there is a bench to sit on. From here you can watch several lovely 15-footers tumble and spray. This make a great place to rest and have a bit and something to drink. It’s another half a mile down to Muir Woods from here, but you have already hiked two miles and it is a very steep hike back up the canyon again, so this might be the best turnaround spot. Count on taking about an hour to get back up to the trailhead at a steady pace, longer if you need to rest. I would tell you that I sprinted up to the top but it would sound too much like boasting so I won’t. Besides, it’s not true. I stopped and took photos on the way back. Make sure you do too. The section of

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trail just above the middle bridge, with its sunlight dancing among the redwoods, is a bit warmer to stop and rest than down below. An alternative to this route is to start at the bottom of Muir Woods and hike UP to the Bootjack Trailhead high above on Panoramic Highway. This has two advantages. Firstly, the fee for entrance to Muir Woods is only $3 and parking is free. Secondly, it’s all downhill on the way back. Unfortunately, taking that route makes for an even longer walk, and the crowds at Muir Woods are endless on weekends.

Kent Canyon Falls Of all the waterfalls in Marin County, this may be the hardest one to find (except for Morse’s Gulch Falls described in Volume One, where the brambles ate me alive and I gave up). References to Kent Canyon Falls in guidebooks are virtually non-existent, and no one I know has ever heard of it. Yet there it is, hidden away all by its lonely self, in Frank’s Valley just south of Muir Woods. While Muir Woods get millions of visitors a year, lonely Kent Canyon Falls gets virtually none. It’s a shame; while this is not booming Cataract Falls, on a sunny day it’s a nice little walk in the woods along a lovely stream. However, finding it is the problem. Firstly, drive to “Four Corners” high aboveSequoia Valley Drive meets Panoramic Hat Muir Woods Road, hence the “four corn To get there from Highway 101, take the Sthe signs to Muir Woods. From downtownto the Two O’clock Club at Montford Avensteep hill to Panoramic Highway. (If you a bit tricky. Montford become Molino, whi

Kent Canyon Falls

Mill Valley on the Panoramic Highway. ighway (also known as Shoreline Highway) ers” nickname.

tinson Beach/Mill Valley exit and follow Mill Valley, drive along Miller Avenue east ue and turn right. Follow the signs up the have never driven this section of road, it’s ch becomes Edgewood which becomes

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Sequoia Valley Drive. Just stay on the main road. Also, DON’T follow the bike path signs, which go a different direction. Follow the yellow line and you will be alright.) From Four Corners follow the signs, and crowds, to Muir Woods, where the main parking lot is usually jammed much of the year with tour buses and cars and the overflow follows the road for a quarter mile. The road down to Muir Woods from Four Corners is steep and tricky with no guardrails. Best to go slow and leave the fantastic view to the passengers. As soon as the road meets the entrance to Muir Woods it makes a hard left, south towards the ocean. Follow it. From the Four Corners intersection to hidden Kent Canyon it is exactly 2.6 miles. Set the odometer on your car and watch it carefully. There is no sign or notice to tell you when you have arrived at Frank’s Valley or Kent Canyon. There is a reason for this deliberate obscurity, but it took me several tries to find the reason. At exactly 2.6 miles you will come across two houses on your right. Immediately you see the first one, stop before the driveway and park just off the road in the gravel. There is only space for one or two cars. Walk down the highway (south, towards the ocean in the distance) to the second house, where there is a gravel road named Kerri Lane. A temporary sign is usually stuck at the mouth of the lane marked “Authorized Vehicles Only.” However, since you are on foot and not in a car you will have no problem. The house is occupied by a ranger and a dog, and the ranger may come out and ask where you are going and the dog may bark. No matter; you are on firm legal ground here. The public lane leads to the waterfall, no matter what the ranger may say about “no waterfall on the premises.” The reason for all this obscurity is that there is a tiny shooting range along the trail to the falls. Shooting ranges and hiking do not go well together. Neither do shooting ranges and spotted owls, and the range is currently closed. According to the ranger, in future a sign will be posted at the entrance to Kerri Lane - when the spotted owl situation is resolved – if the shooting range is open. If the range is ever re-opened, you can’t get to the falls. Walk down Kerri Lane about 100 yards towards the barn. Just before the barn a vague road turns right, then left after the barn, where it becomes readily identifiable as a fire road. The fire road rises slightly in elevation as it enters the woods, with Kent Creek babbling away on your left. After rains this can be a muddy road. Soon the aforementioned (and abandoned) shooting range appears, which you cross while keeping an eye out for spotted owls, and cross the creek. The creek is now on your right. Soon you come to some downed trees along the trail, but there is a vague path veering off to the right towards the creek. Follow the path, right, past the downfall and back to the main trail. The trail soon splits into two; the upper section heads uphill to meander in the dead end of the canyon. Don’t go there. The lower path

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heads back to Kent Creek. Stay right. There are some more dead trees to traverse, but you will come to the creek again. Cross it and pick up the trail on the other side. About 100 yards ahead and to your left lie Kent Falls. Kent Falls are not very impressive, but they are nice enough to spend a few minutes having a bite to eat and it’s only a nice 15-minute walk in the woods to get here. They are best, of course, after recent rains. It’s only a short walk to get back your car, but be sure to head straight across the highway when you get back to it. Redwood Creek is only a few yards away, and salmon spawn there in winter. Winter after a rainfall is the only time to check out Kent Canyon, because only heavy rains make the falls come alive. Otherwise, given how hard it is to find the place, you’d never know there was anything there.

Cascade Falls, Mill Valley Wait a minute. Now you are confused. You thought Cascade Falls (described in Volume One) was located over in Fairfax? Well, you are right. There are actually two waterfalls in Marin County with the same name. Confusing perhaps, but this one is sure a lot easier to find and certainly easier to find a place to park. From Highway 101 take the Mill Valley exit and drive right to the heart of this

lovely old town. You can access downtown Mill Valley either via Blithedale Avtown is Throckmorton Street b Once at Throckmorton and Midowntown, past Old Mill Park Park. Throckmorton is a very

Cascade Falls at full volume

enue or via Miller Avenue. Either way, the center of etween Blithedale and Miller.

ller, follow Throckmorton as winds its way south from to the library and on to the end of the road at Cascade pretty little road, just wide enough for two old

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Volkswagens to pass each other by without scraping paint. These days you will find wealthy Mill Valley is jammed with Blazers, Bashers, Hummers and Hammers, so drive slowly. Throckmorton winds its way up the hill and eventually degenerates into something resembling a goat path, which is why God invented SUVs, and then you are there. It’s only about a mile but five miles per hour appears to be the limit. Cascade Park is clearly marked with a big wooden sign and you can’t miss it. There is room for half a dozen cars in the parking lot. It’s a short five-minute walk through a lush redwood forest to the falls, passing over a creek along the way on a wooden bridge. The path splits in two; take the lower path along the creek. The falls are audible before you see them, a strong steady cataract falling 30 feet over a cliff. A bench has been set in a smfalls to sit and watch the water flow.

This is truly a magical spot. WeddingBring a book and mediate over the wespecially for dog walkers. Think of tcome here whenever they want. ComValley (also described in Volume Onwoods to a small set of falls that quicbeauty easily found and readily appre

The falls are easy to find

all grove of redwoods trees across from the

s and other ceremonies have been held here. onders of nature. It’s a popular spot, though, he lucky Mill Valley residents who are able to

pared to Warner Falls on the other side of Mill e), which requires a 30-minute trek through the kly ebb after a rain, Cascade Falls is a real ciated.

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Little Pacheco Canyon I have hiked the trail to Pacheco Valle Falls many times, and – aside from autumn when there is no water left in the creek – I have always enjoyed the walk, rain or shine. It’s a lovely little creek and canyon, whether you make it all the way to the waterfalls at the end or not. Several times I have noted a side trail andexplored the side canyon u To get to Pacheco Valle Fa(going north, it’s the first exhighway. Turn left (south) town home community of PTurn right at Pacheco Creeroom for 3-4 cars. Start your hike on the well-hundred yards. Soon you from the right. (Note: Thisup a few months after the wcreek, turn right and followfeeder creek. The trail slowly rises, creatThis side canyon has sunsRidge to the south blocks oyour first waterfall after onlAnother side creek enters straight and follow the path You hop over the feeder crand then slightly uphill, on nice 20-foot falls. You can

Little Pacheco Canyon Falls
feeder creek heading off to the right but I have never ntil recently. What a pleasant surprise!
lls, take Highway 101 to the Alameda del Prado exit it in Novato) and cross over to the west side of the and drive along Alameda del Prado through the gorgeous acheco Valle, all the way south to Pacheco Creek Drive. k and drive half a mile to the end. Park here. There is

marked main trail, following Pacheco Creek for a few come to creek crossing where another small creek enters small feeder creek, like most small creeks in Marin, dries inter rains end). Cross Pacheco Creek and the feeder

the feeder creek. The trail goes along the left side of the

ing a couple of tiny waterfalls when the flow is strong. hine in the morning or early afternoon, but Big Rock ut the sun if you start out later in the day. You come to

y 100 yards, a lovely 10-footer trickling down a rock face. from the right, but there is no trail to follow there. Stay up the hill.

eek and cross over a fallen tree and under a dead tree your left just off the trail, there is a small canyon with a scramble up the rocks to the right of the fall or go back to

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the trail, but as you ascend above the falls you come out into a tiny beautiful meadow with several miniature waterfalls falling off rock faces. This is a perfect spot for a Sunday brunch, but make sure you bring a groundsheet to cover the grass because of the dampness. It seems every creek gives off a sound all its own; hence the expression “babbling brook.” Sit here for awhile here and listen to the tiny creek chattering its way down this hidden valley. The trail still ascends, more steeply, now on the left side of the creek, and soon you come to a third set of falls tumbling down a rock face. Another 50 feet brings you to a fourth set of small falls, this one a triple set. Here you are out in the sunshine again, another perfect place for a picnic. Just above these upper falls you finally get a view, and what a view it is! On a sunny day you can see all the way to Mt. Diablo in the East Bay. The trail continues uphill but the water flow soon diminishes and the creek splits into two, so these upper falls are the place to rest, enjoy the view, turn around and head back. Count on 15 minutes to get back down to the main Pacheco Valle Canyon trail. A final reminder: Smaller creeks like this one need a lot of water to create any waterfalls. If you go hiking several weeks since the last rainfall, you may be disappointed. Still, Little Pacheco Canyon always makes for a lovely hike as long as there is any water in the creek.

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The Inkwells If you are in the Samuel P Taylor Park area, maybe heading from Roy’s Pool (see chapter 20 in Volme One of Secret Waterfalls of Marin) in San Geronimo - where the salmon can be seen after early winter rains jumpinDevil’s Gulch sectstop for a momentlocals as “the Inkwthe confluence of To get to Samuel follow Sir Francis At the Lagunitas Gthe Shafter Bridgethe Leo Cronin Fiscars. Note the sig(November to Feb The tiny stream flosalmon can be seof rain are requirein Marin at the begweekends as fish this fabled speciessalmon. Walk from the parwater pipeline hasto cross the creekin both directions,migrating salmon

The Inkwells on Lagunitas Creek

g up the manmade waterfalls – over to Stairstep Falls in the ion of the Park (see chapter 17 of Volume One), you might want to and enjoy a lovely little section of San Geronimo Creek known to ells.” Here a couple of very pretty small waterfalls can be found at

Lagunitas and San Geronimo creeks.

P Taylor Park, turn off Highway 101 at the San Anselmo exit and Drake Boulevard about twelve miles to the tiny town of Lagunitas. eneral Store, set your odometer to zero. Drive exactly .9 miles to , and turn left immediately at the end of the bridge. Park here in h Viewing Area. This parking lot has room for at least a dozen ns that allow only one hour parking during salmon viewing season ruary). Do NOT park on Sir Frances Drake at any time.

wing by the parking lot is Lagunitas Creek, where migrating en spawning after the first heavy rainfall of winter. About 5 inches d to provide sufficient depth for the salmon to swim up the creeks inning of rainy season. The parking lot fills up quickly on

fanciers drive all the way from San Francisco to catch a glimpse of . A pair of river otters was spotted here recently, dining out on

king lot over to the Shafter Bridge and cross the highway. An old recently had a bikeway built across the top, allowing avid cyclists here. Cross the bridge on foot and get a good look at the stream swollen in the winter after a good rain. With luck you might see a swimming against the current.

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Backtrack across the bridge and note the small path leading down to the creek. Descend carefully to the water’s edge. Here a series of boulders in the middle of the stream have created two nice little waterfalls, a picture perfect spot for a winter picnic. Maybe a salmon will try to leap the falls while you are there. They spawn for a period of about six weeks, starting from the first heavy winter rains. The boulders also create a phenomenon known to locals as the Inkwells, two or three small ponds in the middle of the river that are deep enough for swimming. In summer local kids cool off from the heat by jumping into these pools for a quick dip. Sadly, the Inkwells have also gained a reputation as a party spot for the local kids, hence the graffiti and occasional beer can found on the premises. But in winter the only creatures doing any swimming are the salmon, and the Inkwells are a great spot to see them.

Part Two; Pt Reyes Hikes All of the Pt Reyes waterfalls described in this e-book are courtesy of world class mountain guide and expedition leader Phil Arnot, who has been exploring and photographing Pt Reyes for over 50 years Note: Many of these hikes must be done at low or minus tides only! They require use and understanding of an accurate tide table. Tide books are available from the Pt Reyes National Seashore headquarters at Bear Valley. Phone the Visitor Center at 1-415-663-1092 and get a copy well in advance of planning any hikes along Pt Reyes beaches. Tidal information is calibrated for San Francisco so take care to subtract 30 minutes for Pt Reyes tides. When in doubt, leave for your hike early and be ready in advance for the tides to ebb. Leave plenty of time to return before the tide returns. Never get caught in an incoming tide. When in doubt of tidal flow, double check with the rangers at the Visitor Center.

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Pelican Falls

Note: This hike must only be done at a low or minus tide. On the way to popular Alamere Falls north of Bolinas there is another secret waterfall in a hidden cove that few people, except for scuba divers, seem to know about. It requires a few miles walk along deserted Palomarin Beach to find it, but if you do the hike you are sure to be alone except for the harbor seals that live at the cove. It’s a 5.4-mile hike along the Coast Trail to Alamere Falls from the Palomarin Trailhead. On the hike you will pass by Bass and Pelican Lake. Pelican Lake drains over a cliff down onto Double Point Cove. However, the cove is not accessible from above via Coast Trail. You must access Double Point Cove via Palomarin Beach from the south. To get to the Palomarin trailhead follow Highway 1 south from Olema or north from Stinson Beach. Take the Bolinas turn off and drive to Mesa Road just before you get to the town of Bolinas. Turn right on Mesa Road and drive a few miles to a turnout just short (about 500 yards) of the busy Palomarin trailhead parking lot. Park here at the turnout. There is a day use trail (presently it is not marked by a sign) used by scuba divers and others that leads down to the beach (maybe 500 yards). There are often one or two cars parked here at this turnout. If there is no room at the turnout, park at the trailhead and walk back. After walking down the trail to Palomarin Beach, turn right and head along the beach (north) past Abalone Point to Double Point. Note: You must do this hike at low or minus tide. Round the point and you have arrived at Double Point Cove. It’s about 2.5 miles each way. Here at the cove, which resembles a perfect semi-circle, there are usually harbor seals basking on the rocks. Do not go into the cove during the months of March and April since this is the season when seal pups are born. Do not approach the seals at any time, if they are there. Stay away at least 200 feet. The National Park Service does not encourage visits to this cove, or any of the three harbor seal rookeries in Pt Reyes. Do not visit when the seals are pupping! The falls are dead center in the semi-circular cove. Pelican Falls are not a freefall. They tumble down from Pelican Lake on a 40-degree angle, falling about 100 feet. Since the falls emanate from a lake they are perennial, but of course the flow is much stronger after a heavy rain causes the lake to overflow. Double Point Cove can also be accessed from the north via Wildcat Beach. To get to Wildcat Beach you can take the Coast Trail from Palomarin trailhead and walk to Wildcat Camp (5.5 miles). When you get to Wildcat Camp, walk down to the beach

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and head left (south) one mile back to Alamere Falls. (Alamere Falls, and Wildcat Beach below it, can also be reached by taking a shortcut down a steep cliff from the Coast Trail right at Alamere Falls, which is a more difficult route). Wildcat Camp can also be accessed via bicycle or foot from the Five Brooks trailhead at Olema. It’s a 6.2-mile ride. Bring a good map (you can download a free Pt Reyes bike trail map from the National Parks Service) and follow the Stewart Trail to Fir Top Ridge - a stiff 1100-foot elevation gain - and down to the Coast Trail and on to Wildcat Camp. The point separating Double Point Cove from Wildcat Beach requires a rock scramble. It must be done at low or minus tides only. Take great caution with all rock scrambles, do not hike alone, and notify friends of your destination and estimated time of return. Most cellphones do not work in this remote area. A fall or tumble at this remote beach can lead to serious consequences. Exercise caution at all times when climbing slippery rock faces.

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Alamere Falls Alamere Falls is the most beautiful, and therefore best known, of all Pt Reyes waterfalls. It’s an 11-mile hike, round trip from Palomarin, and camping is NOT permitted at the falls (nearby Wildcat Camp is the nearest designated campsite, and reservations must be made in advance). It’s a long way to any starting point from east or central Marin and the palong weekends, so best to lodging is available in Bolin To get to the Palomarin traStinson Beach. Take the Bto the town of Bolinas. Turbecomes gravel. Continue Starting from Palomarin trafew miles then veers (rightBass Lake (good swimminpast Pelican Lake (left) leafar below. The Coast Trail continues the overlook is a “use trail”descend via handholds ana jump. Taking this path mfrom here, and a steep traithen down to the beach. The Coast Trail continues the left is the Ocean Lake right fork is the Coast Trailclimbing. Both lead to WildBeach turn left and it’s a onrestroom at Wildcat Camp.

Alamere Falls, Pt. Reyes - Photo by Phil Arnot

rking lot at the Palomarin trailhead can be full on busy set out early if you plan to do this hike in one day. (Some as.)

ilhead, follow Highway 1 south from Olema or north from olinas turn off and drive to Mesa Road just before you get n right on Mesa Road and drive a few miles until the road on to the parking lot.

ilhead, the Coast Trail to Alamere falls goes straight for a ) inland just before Abalone Point. You will then pass g) and Pelican Lake on your left. An unmarked trail just ds (west) uphill to a great view above Double Point Cove

north past Pelican Lake. Just past the unmarked trail to down to Alamere Falls. (you come to a short cliff and d you arrive at Alamere creek, which you must cross with eans you will come out ABOVE the falls. It’s a great view l to the right (north) a “use trail” rises up a few feet and

north past Alamere Falls, and soon comes to a fork. To Loop Trail, passing Wildcat Lake and Ocean Lake. The . The Coast Trail involves much less up and down cat Camp and access to the beach. When on Wildcat e-mile walk back (south) to Alamere Falls. There is a

Here on the beach, depending on the tide, you can see

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the wide cataract tumbling straight onto the beach or into the ocean. After heavy rains in the spring it’s a spectacular sight. There is no water at the Falls and no washroom facilities along the way. Do NOT drink from any creeks. Bring all the supplies you need for the day and leave plenty of time to hike back to the Palomarin Trailhead. Then it’s a 20-30 minute drive back to Bolinas and another hour back to eastern Marin.

Phantom Falls Note; this hike must be done at a low tide Phantom Falls are found less than a mile north of Alamere Falls on Wildcat Beach. Follow the instructions to Alamere Falls found in the previous chapter. Either you walk in from Palomarin trailhead (6 miles) or cycle in (6.2 miles) from Five Brooks trailhead just south of Olema. You can also get to Wildcat Beach via Bear Valley, taking the Glen Camp Loop trail where it veers off the main Bear Valley trail to Arch Rock (you can cycle from Bear Valley Visitor Center to this point and lock your bike). Or you can continue from Bear Valley straight to Arch rock, cross Coast Creek on a bridge, and then walk to Wildcat Camp from there. This route involves a very scenic climb of 800 feet.

However you arrive at Wildcat Camp, instFalls, as most people do - you’ll come acrsheer cliff some 100 feet in height. Wherepowerful stream about 30 feet high and alFalls is a thinner but much higher cascadeYosemite.

Phantom Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot

ead of heading left (south) back to Alamere oss a spectacular waterfall falling off a as Alamere Falls is a very broad and

most as wide in full spring flow, Phantom , somewhat reminiscent of a smaller

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One reason why Phantom Falls is almost unknown is that it flows only in the spring after heavy rains. Whereas Alamere is fed by a perennial stream that varies according to the rains, there is no regular creek flowing into Phantom Falls. One day the falls are here, a few months later they are gone. Usually by mid-April the falls are dry, leaving only clusters of monkey flowers growing in the moisture dripping down from the high cliffs. Aside from Wildcat Camp, there is no overnight camping allowed in this area. It’s about a 12-mile round trip hike from Palomarin to get to this waterfall and back, so leave plenty of time to return to your starting point. It must be a minus .02 tide to do this hike.

Horsetail Falls Note; this hike requires a low or minus tide. If Phantom Falls is virtually unknown, then Horsetail Falls are totally unknown. Found further north of Phantom Falls along the same wild stretch of beach, they can best be accessed by way of Wildcat Camp. Simply hike the mile to Phantom Falls from Wildcat Camp and keep going another half mile. Horsetail Falls are also seabeach. After a winter rain directly onto Wildcat Beach There is another access poround trip from Five Brooks

Horsetail Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot
sonal, cascading 30-40 feet down high cliffs onto the
they are equally spectacular to Phantom Falls, gushing .

int to Horsetail Falls that is much shorter than the 14 mile , or the 12-mile round trip walk from Palomarin Trailhead.

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However, this short cut requires exact knowledge of tide tables and access points. Essentially, this hike starts from Arch Rock at Miller Point, the very popular destination overlooking Kelham Beach that is reached from Bear Valley at the park headquarters near Olema. From Bear Valley you can walk or cycle two miles to Divide Meadow, lock your bike, and walk the rest of the way to Arch Rock at Miller Point. This amazing promontory allows fantastic views of the Pacific Ocean and Kelham Beach below to the right (north). At the bottom of the great promontory you will find Arch Rock, where Coast Creek makes a mad dash through the arch and onto the beach. If you access a small beach to the south of Arch Rock by crossing over Coast Creek - a slippery and dangerous access when the water is high – there is a sandy beach with mixed rock a few hundred feet long. At the end of this beach is the entrance to hidden Miller Cave. This cave’s entrance is accessible at very low tide, and an exit at the rear of the cave (south) allows access to Wildcat Beach. Under no circumstances should anyone attempt to enter this cave without a guidebook or an excellent understanding of Pt Reyes tides. Better yet, read pages 26-28 of Phil’s Secret Places and Magic Moments for a better understanding of the risks (and rewards) involved in exploring sea caves. A reminder that if you plan to return via Miller Cave, keep a sharp eye on your tide book. This is not a place where you want to get stuck.

Kelham Beach Cascade Kelham Beach is located about one mile north of Arch Rock. You get to Kelham from the Bear Valley Visitor Center. It is a simple and fairly flat trail on which you can ride your bike almost all the way to the beach. Start by taking the Bear Valley Trail from the Visitor Center and walking or cycling 3.2 miles to the junction of three trails, where you lock your bike and proceed on foot one mile to Arch Rock. Shortly before you get to Arch Rock the trail splits. Going straight leads to Arch Rock, but turning northwestward onto the Coast Trail is the way to the Kelham Beach Trail. It’s about a mile from the Arch Rock turnoff to the trail down to Kelham Beach. The turn to the beach is marked by a sign and a huge

23


eucalyptus tree. As you hike along Coast Trail you’ll pass Sky Trail on the way, coming in from the right, but continue straight to the giant tree. Turn left at the giant eucalyptus and head down to the beach. As you hit the beach, about 20 feet to your left you’ll find a perennial cascade, fed by Kelham Creek from above. It is a modest cascade, not a freefall, tumbling down the cliff in a 4-foot wide path, which gets wider during heavy winter or spring rains. Kelham is a small stretch of beach, bounded by Arch Rock to the south and Point Resistance to the north. It is not possible at any time to hike past Point Resistance to Secret Beach to the immediate north.

Surprise Falls This seasonal fall really has no name and is not found on any maps, but since it is located on Kelham Beach and you come upon it suddenly we’ll call it Surprise Falls. This waterfall is found less than a half-mile from the point where the Kelham Beach access trail comes down onto the beach. Turn southward when you come onto the beach and in less than a mile you come to where the beach narrows and the cliffs are cseasonal free fall can be fowide during runoff. It is on

Surprise Falls - Photo by Phil Arnot

loser to the sea. It is here at the first of the cliffs that this und. Surprise Falls is a seasonal falls, about 2-3 feet ly full during winter rains.

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You can also get to Kelham Beach via Arch Rock and these two falls by going through the Sea Tunnel underneath the Arch (a tricky little traverse) or down to the sandy beach via a rock climb over the creek. You can then walk north to Kelham Beach but only at a low tide.

The Showerbaths at Secret Beach Note: This hike can only be done at minus low tides. The Shower Baths are found on seldom-visited Secret Beach. There is a reason why it is called Secret Beach; it’s almost impossible to get to this beach from any direction. It is accessible only from the north andirections, would be ifrom Coast Trail high permanently blocked,Even from the north t The shortest and easfrom the Limantour Bcars). To get to Limanmile north of the BearStation head towardsright again to Limantofrom Bear Valley.

Shower Baths at Secret Beach - Photo by Phil Arnot

d a low tide. Finding these secret waterfalls, without exact mpossible. There are no access trails down to Secret Beach above. The access from the south via Kelham Beach is even at low tides, by the towering cliffs of Point Resistance. he trail via Sculptured Beach is very difficult to find.

iest approach to Secret Beach and the two Showerbath Falls is each parking lot (a very large lot with plenty of space for many tour Beach you drive a well-paved road that commences a Valley Information Center just past Olema. From Pt Reyes Inverness, turn left at Inverness Park junction to Olema, and ur Beach. It’s about a 15-minute drive to Limantour Beach

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From the Limantour trailhead, hike south two miles along the beach to Coast Camp (not visible from the beach except for the top of a tall eucalyptus tree). The last half-mile of that trail is not a safe path during high tides or storms, however. An alternative is to hike in from Arch Rock along the coast trail, past Kelham Beach and then north to the Sculptured Beach access trail, about 6.5 miles. At Coast Camp there is an overnight camp with restrooms and campsites that can be reserved through the Visitor Center. Continue from Coast Camp south down to Sculptured Beach. Upon reaching the Sculptured Beach access trail (a wooden staircase comes onto the beach from the left, or inland) continue to, and over, a short 4-foot rock promontory. A short descending rock climb of about 6 feet takes one to the beach or, from the east end of the promontory one can jump 3 feet down onto the sand. Proceed down Sculptured Beach to the end where there is a promontory and a prominent offshore rock. Head for this promontory and you will find a small crack in the wall about 4-5 feet long, or "the keyhole,” which is large enough for a person to easily pass through and access Secret Beach. This keyhole can only be accessed at low or minus tides! Do not attempt this hike at medium or high tides. Be warned that, even at low tides, the keyhole will close behind you when the tide rises. Consult your tidal charts. The tide moves slowly both in and out, and when it changes it does so very gradually and not with a rush. A reminder that winds can create heavy waves even at low tides The other side of the Keyhole consists of a 20-30 foot sestion of slippery rocks, impassable at high tides. You are now on Secret Beach, and rewarded with a huge surprise. A secret cave is found immediately to the left. Secret Cave is one of the great wonders of Pt Reyes National Seashore. The entrance to the cave is about 20 feet long but only about five feet high. Once inside, the cave has a circumference of about 35-40 feet. Strangely enough, although the cave is about 90-feet high, it has no ceiling. The walls are completely perpendicular. In fact, you are standing in some sort of natural amphitheatre. It’s an amazing place. The first Showerbath is found about 200 yards down the beach from the Secret Cave. A ten-foot seasonal cascade drops down a sheer rock face on to the beach below. About 75 yards down the beach a second 12-foot waterfall cascades down the cliff face and shoots out onto the sand, a fine place to stand and enjoy the spray. Both falls are seasonal and lose their affect by early summer. It is essential that this hike be done at a minus low tide (preferably -1.5 or lower) and that you reach The Keyhole about the time the tide peaks low. One needs to consult a tide book. They are calibrated for SF Bay and the correction figure for Pt. Reyes National Seashore in this vicinity is about minus 30 minutes. So if the minus tide

26


peaks low in San Francisco Bay at 1 pm, you should arrive at The Keyhole about 12.30 PM. With a minus low tide on Secret Beach and having arrived at the moment of the peak (or a little beforehand, actually) there is plenty of time to explore the waterfalls and even the Secret Cave. There are two "escape routes" up the cliffs along Secret Beach but they are hard to describe and better left alone and there is no need to put oneself in an escape situation. Simply leave when you must.

The Unknown Coast - Perennial Fall, Ribbon Falls and Seasonal Falls So far all the waterfalls described in this book have been located on the southern end of Pt Reyes, from Bolinas to Limantour Beach. Now we take a big jump to the northern end of Pt Reyes, towards Tomales Point, the most obscure and least visited areas of Pt Reyes. It is not listed on any maps, but the Unknown Coast is that section of coastline between Kehoe Beach and McClures Beach on the northwest tip of the

peninsula. This is wild and rugged territory and

The Unknown Coast - Photo by Phil Arnot

27


care must be taken to consult tidal charts and accurate maps before setting forth on any hikes here. Note: The following hike is a true adventure. It can only be done at minus tide (0.2 or lower) and therefore requires serious advance planning. Very few minus tides occur when you want them to. In fact, many occur only in the early mornings or late at night. Plan well ahead and be ready to start your hike early in the day if need be. There are two and a half miles of wild and rocky coastline to explore on the Unknown Coast, with four sandy beaches, giant “keyholes” through rock promontories, tidal pools, brilliant white granite boulders, steep cliffs and fabulous Elephant Rock and Elephant Cave. Plus three wonderful waterfalls, of course, including a perennial falls that, at 125 feet, is the highest on the entire Pt Reyes coastline. To access this hike, drive from Pt Reyes Station to Inverness, then head west towards Pt Reyes lighthouse. (Note: You may need two vehicles for this trip.) A few miles west of Inverness, turn north (right) at Pierce Point Road. When you come to a fork on the road, where the right fork goes right to Marshall Beach Road, stay left on Pierce Point Road and drive a few miles past the Abbott Lagoon Trailhead to Kehoe Beach access. Park here. There are washroom facilities. If your tide tables have clearly indicated a minus tide of 0.7 or lower (with the times adjusted from San Francisco, where they are measured) plan to arrive at Kehoe Beach an hour before the peak of the low tide. There are four promontories to pass through between Kehoe Beach and McClures Beach, and they will be under water (between 4-18 inches) even at low tide. Wear appropriate footwear and clothing and plan to get wet. If the seas are stormy on the day of your hike then you are out of luck. If the tide begins to turn and you are still on the route you must climb these promontories, which is dangerous. Plan to complete this trek before the tide turns. If not, you will be trapped for up to 7 hours on the cliffs! Warning: The beaches along the Unknown Coast are very narrow and provide no retreat. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT BECOME TRAPPED. Plan to start your trip at least 60 minutes before the maximum low tide and you will be able to complete the entire trip, but ONE WAY only, going north. So you will end your hike at McClures Beach, requiring the use of a second vehicle to get back. (See, nobody said this would be simple or easy). So park a second vehicle at the McClures Beach access or else you will have to walk back along the road a few miles to your car at Kehoe Beach. Preparation: You are going to get your feet and pants wet. Prepare for this inevitability by bringing a second set of shoes and pants in a small backpack. Sneakers are perhaps the best type of shoes for this water walk. Scuba diving boots may be the next best design. Hiking boots are not designed to get completely

28


soaked. When you finish the hike at McClures Beach, change into your second set of shoes and pants. It might also be a nice idea to keep a third set of “street clothes” back in your car, in order to avoid importing sand and dirt into your vehicle. Remember that you are a long way from civilization up here, so hot beverages and good food are a nice reward after your hike. To start the hike: Drive to McClures Beach parking lot. Leave a pick-up car(s). There are rest rooms available. Drive back to the Kehoe Beach parking shoulder (about 12 minutes.) Walk the trail to the beach (it’s about 15-20 minutes). When you get to the beach, turn north on the beach. Make sure you get there about 45-60 minutes before the tide is scheduled to peak low. Hike for about one mile to "The Keyhole" that is located at the First Promontory. It looks just like a giant key. There is sand at first, and boulders for the last 125 yards. The Keyhole now has a chockstone in it but one can get through. (Very large people might not be able to squeeze through.) Exit the Keyhole onto big slippery boulders with a slight downward slope for 100 feet onto a beach that will probably be covered with about 6-15 inches of seawater. Wade to the right at the base of the north side of the first promontory in which the Keyhole is located. You will reach the beach (free of sea water) in about 50 yards. Hike along a mostly sandy beach to the south-facing wall of the obvious Second Promontory (its about 300 yards). Move along the south face of the second promontory until to you come to an obvious opening east of the tip of the promontory. You pass through the opening, filled with a mixture of shallow tide pools, seaweed, and sand. There is one deep pool (about 2-4 feet deep) with a sandy bottom. Immediately at the north end of the pool is a wide opening leading to the third beach (counting the first beach as Kehoe Beach). Hike north on this beach and you will encounter a perennial waterfall about 300 yards from the opening of the second promontory. Proceeding up the beach you will find that it narrows somewhat and within 400 yards you will find two seasonal waterfalls. One is about 125 feet high. In winter and spring the falls will be active. Beyond the waterfalls you will be on rock that requires boulder hopping. In about a mile from the perennial fall you come to the Third Promontory in which you find Elephant Cave. Elephant Rock stands 200 yards or less off shore, so-called because of its appearance. At very low tides one can pass around the west end of the promontory. Walk to the right, to the where the promontory meets the line of cliffs that you have been following (to your right) and will see a hole some 10-14 feet

29


above the sandy beach. The climb up to the hole is easy and as you pass through the hole you enter Elephant Cave. The sea is about 100 feet at the west end of the well-lighted cave. Elephant Cave is about 75-feet long and about five feet high. You can see the opening at the end of the cave at all times, so a flashlight is not required. Duck your head and go through. Exit the cave and turn north onto a sandy beach with mixed rock. This beach indents slightly to the east and then turns in about 50-60 yards to the Fourth Promontory. Pass along the south wall for a short distance (this promontory is truncated and protrudes to the west much less than the first three promontories). You turn past this promontory, walking over kelp and through tide pools that might come up to your waist at the most. Upon turning this fourth promontory you come immediately onto a sandy beach leading in 150 yards to a large and Fifth promontory. At this point one has actually completed the Unknown Coast hike because at the east end of the promontory there is large and easy passage onto McClures Beach. Once on McClures Beach you hike on sand and around some large boulders for 300 yards to where you will see, on your right, an obvious trail exiting onto the beach. Take the trail for 3/4 mile to the McClures Beach parking lot and the pick-up cars. There is a phone and restroom at McClures Beach.

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About Phil Arnot A native California, Phil Arnot is an active and highly regarded mountaineer, explorer and photographer. He has explored extensively in the Olympic Mountains of Washington, the Cascades of Oregon and Washington, the High Sierra of Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks, New Zealand and South America. Phil has made over 200 ascents including Mt. McKinley and hiked over 8000 miles of trail and off-trail in the wilderness. Now aged 80, Phil formerly led commercial wilderness trips throughout the western USA, Alaska and Pt Reyes National Seashore. He is still active in mountain climbing and hiking with friend

For more information on Phil Arnot or to on to www.philarnot.com To buy his book click on: Pt Reyes, Secr Other books by Phil Arnot The High Sierra; John Muir’s Range of LYosemite Valley; Secret Places and MagMystique of the Wilderness (currently in Exploring Pt. Reyes (with Elvera MonroeRun for Your Life San Francisco, a City to Remember (pho

Phil Arnot

s and family. purchase samples of his photography, log

et Places and Magic Moments

ight ic Moments

revision) )

tography).

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http://www.philarnot.com/

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0933174845/touristtravel-20


Hiking Links Marin County Parks http://www.co.marin.ca.us/depts/PK/Main/pos/parklist.cfm Marin County Open Space District http://www.marinopenspace.org Muir Woods National Monument http://www.nps.gov/muwo/ Marin Municipal Water District http://www.marinwater.org Golden Gate National Recreation Area http://www.nps.gov/goga Point Reyes National Seashore http://www.nps.gov/pore Marin Trails http://www.marintrails.com/ National Weather Service, Western Regional Headquarters http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/ The Bay Area Weather Page http://www.weatherpages.com/bayarea/ SF Gate Weather http://www.sfgate.com/weather/ Hiking Clubs and Organizations Wednesday Sierra Club Hiking Group http://www.home.earthlink.net/~mullerosborn/HIKETAM.html Sierra Club SF Bay Chapter Hiking Section http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/sanfranciscobay/Hiking/ Sierra Club Loma Prieta Chapter Dayhiking Section http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/dayhiking/ Mount Tamalpais Interpretitive Association http://www.mttam.net/ California Alpine Club http://www.calalpine.org Greenbelt Outings http://www.greenbelt.org/getinvolved/outings/index.html Cal Hiking and Outdoor Society http://www.uc-hiking-club.berkeley.ca.us/ Bay Area Orienteering Club http://www.baoc.org/ Pacific Trail Society http://www.geocities.com/pacifictrailsociety/ Santa Cruz Mountain Trail Association http://www.stanford.edu/~mhd/trails/ East Bay Barefoot Hikers http://www.unshod.org/ebbfhike/ Intrepid Northern California Hikers (INCH) http://www.rawbw.com/~svw/inch/ Buddy Up http://www.buddyup.com Confused http://www.confused.org Bay Area Hiking at Yahoo Groups http://www31.pair.com/hiking/bayareahiking/ Absolute Adventures http://www.absoluteadv.com FOM/FOK Hiking Group http://www.webself.com/~fomfok Bay Area Jewish Singles Hiking Club http://www.bajshc.org Hiking North of SF Bay http://www.hikenorthbay.com/index.html girlsAdventureOUT http:www.girlsadventureout.com Hiking Clubs in the San Francisco Bay Area http://www.geocities.com/evbuck Bay Area Outdoor Adventurers Club http://www.sfoac.com/ Berryessa Hikers http://www.sonic.net/berryessatrails Women's East Bay Hiking Group http://www.womenhiking.org/ East Bay Casual Hiking Group http://hiking.bondon.com

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http://www.co.marin.ca.us/depts/PK/Main/pos/parklist.cfm

http://www.marinopenspace.org/

http://www.nps.gov/muwo/

http://www.marinwater.org/

http://www.nps.gov/goga

http://www.nps.gov/pore

http://www.marintrails.com/

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/

http://www.weatherpages.com/bayarea/

http://www.sfgate.com/weather/

http://www.home.earthlink.net/%7Emullerosborn/HIKETAM.html

http://www.home.earthlink.net/%7Emullerosborn/HIKETAM.html

http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/sanfranciscobay/Hiking/

http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/sanfranciscobay/Hiking/

http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/dayhiking/

http://www.sierraclub.org/chapters/lomaprieta/dayhiking/

http://www.mttam.net/

http://www.calalpine.org/

http://www.sfoac.com/

http://www.greenbelt.org/getinvolved/outings/index.html


http://www.uc-hiking-club.berkeley.ca.us/

http://www.baoc.org/

http://www.geocities.com/pacifictrailsociety/

http://reality.sgi.com/csp/svhhh/nextindex.html

http://www.stanford.edu/%7Emhd/trails/

http://www.unshod.org/ebbfhike/

http://www.rawbw.com/%7Esvw/inch/

http://www.buddyup.com/

http://www.confused.org/

http://www31.pair.com/hiking/bayareahiking/

http://www.absoluteadv.com/

http://www.webself.com/%7Efomfok

http://www.bajshc.org/

http://www.hikenorthbay.com/index.html

http://www.girlsadventureout.com/

http://www.geocities.com/evbuck


http://www.sonic.net/berryessatrails

http://www.womenhiking.org/

http://hiking.bondon.com/


Please send any corrections regarding directions, mileages, spellings, or factual errors to the editor at [email protected]. Due to the nature of Marin's rainfall and instant waterfalls, this e-book was necessarily written in a brief period of time in early 2005. Additions and corrections will be made shortly and posted to future copies as soon as possible. Thank you.

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