seam & stitch

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Stitch: Kind of the stitch Classification of stitch as BSI: Class Name of Stitch Available subclass Created Machine Class100 Chain stitch 7 and each class is subdivided SNCS, Blind Stitch Machine. Class200 Hand stitch 13 Number of subdivided classes is 88. Class 300 Lockstitch 27 in total. SNLS, 2NLS, Bar tuck machine. Class 400 Multi needle chain stitch 17 in total. Kansai Machine, 2NCS Class 500 Over-edge chain stitch 15 in total. 3T, 4T, 5T over lock machine. Class 600 Covering chain 9 in total. Flat lock machine. Class 100 Stitches Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper. Feature A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted. The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacement at the end of sewing comes off. Application Basting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S), blind stitch, And closing of bag opening. Example of Stitch formation Stitch formation: Page 1 of 58 Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch

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Page 1: Seam & Stitch

Stitch: Kind of the stitchClassification of stitch as BSI:

Class Name of Stitch Available subclass Created MachineClass100 Chain stitch 7 and each class is

subdividedSNCS, Blind Stitch Machine.

Class200 Hand stitch 13 Number of subdivided classes is 88.

Class 300 Lockstitch 27 in total. SNLS, 2NLS, Bar tuck machine.

Class 400 Multi needle chain stitch

17 in total. Kansai Machine, 2NCS

Class 500 Over-edge chain stitch 15 in total. 3T, 4T, 5T over lock machine.

Class 600 Covering chain 9 in total. Flat lock machine.

Class 100 Stitches

Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper. Feature

A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted. The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacement at the end of sewing comes off.

ApplicationBasting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S), blind stitch, And closing of bag opening.

Example of Stitch formation

Stitch formation:

A: Needle thread slacks at the position where needle slightly goes up from its lowest position, and looper catches the needle thread which has become like a loop.Also, the needle enters the circle of needle thread which is widened by the looper.

Page 1 of 57

Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch

Looper

Needle

Page 2: Seam & Stitch

B: Needle comes off the cloth and the cloth is fed. Looper rotates and removes the thread which the looper caught before while pulling in the needle thread. Needle bar continues going up and needle thread take-up lever lifts the thread.

C: Looper continues rotating and pulls in the thread in the center of the looper and thread take-up lever tightens the thread which the looper removed before.

D: Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is formed. Needle penetrates the cloth to continue to next stitch, A.

We get class 100 stitches from SNCS, blind stitch machine etc.

Sub Classes of Class 100 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Page 2 of 57

Page 3: Seam & Stitch

Class 101 One Thread Basting, or light construction

Class 103 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 104 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 200 Stitches

Single thread hand sewed stitches using one needle thread. Feature

Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the same position of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in thread breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited.

ApplicationDecorative stitch of suits or like, kimono (Japanese national dress), Button sewing of coats, suits, etc.

Example of stitch formation

Stitch Formation:

Page 3 of 57

Class 200 Hand Stitch

Page 4: Seam & Stitch

A: Needle is fixed to upper needle bar, and left-hand and right-hand loopers draw and retain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needle comes down.

B: Needle penetrates the cloth and is delivered to the lower needle bar. The right-hand looper returns to its home place.

C: Lower looper catches the thread loop at the position where the lower needle bar slightly goes up from its lowest position.

D: Lower looper draws out thread which enters under the cloth one stitch before from the above left-hand looper. Simultaneously the cloth is fed.

Page 4 of 57

Page 5: Seam & Stitch

E: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth. Lower looper further pulls in the thread downward.

F: Needle penetrates the cloth, and is delivered to the upper needle bar and goes up. Thread is wiped out by the lower looper. Next, the above left-hand and right-hand loopers catch the thread to continue to A.

Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

Class 205 One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching

Class 300 Stitches

Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbin hook thread.

Feature

Page 5 of 57

Page 6: Seam & Stitch

Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Every stitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrong sides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins plural pieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained by rotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case.

ApplicationGeneral sewing (DDL-5550N, DDL-5700-7, DLU-5490N-7, DLN-5410N-7), Shirring (DLU-5494N-7),2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative stitch, Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25), Pockect sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D)

Example of stitch formationJIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch

A: Upper thread slacks at the position where the needle slightly goes up from its lowest position, and blade point of outer hook catches the loop-shaped upper thread and pulls in the upper thread.

B: Upper thread which is pulled in by the blade point of outer hook is separated at the inner hook thread separating portion so that the upper thread on the needle side is separated to the rear side of inner hook and the upper thread on cloth side is separated to the right side of inner hook.

Page 6 of 57

1-needle lockstitch 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch

Page 7: Seam & Stitch

C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling in upper thread, around the periphery of bobbin case containing lower thread set in inner hook. Thread take-up lever supplies upper thread which is necessary to rotate around inner hook. (Suppose that inner hook is a human being, and it looks like doing rope-skipping.)

D: Immediately after upper thread hasrotated around inner hook, threadtake-up lever lifts upper thread and theupper thread is interlaced with the lower

E: Stitch is formed when the upper thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is fed at the end. Next, needle comes down and penetrates cloth to continue to A: .

2 Semi-rotary hook

Page 7 of 57

Page 8: Seam & Stitch

A: Blade point of semi-rotary hook catches loop-shaped upper thread.

D: Upper thread rotates around the periphery of bobbin case by rotation of the hook.

C: After 1/2 rotation of the hook, upper thread is lifted by thread take-up lever and is interlaced with lower thread.

Page 8 of 57

Page 9: Seam & Stitch

D: Stitch is formed when the upper thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is fed at the end. To be continued to a : .

Sub Classes of Class 300 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 301 Two Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies

Class 304 Two Thread Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

Class 306 Two Thread Blind Stitch

Class 315 Two Threads

"Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitch with more stretch

Class 400 Stitches

Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooper threads.

Feature

Page 9 of 57

Page 10: Seam & Stitch

Upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other like a chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those of lockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously for a long time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are full of elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Defect, when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed.

ApplicationGeneral sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc. Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600)

Example of stitch formationJIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch

Stitch formationA: Needle thread comes off looper and is tightened. Then, looper scoops needle thread at the position where needle slightly goes up from its lowest position.

B: Needle continues to go up and looper thread comes off needle. Looper advances in the state that it has scooped needle thread.

Page 10 of 57

Page 11: Seam & Stitch

C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highest dead point and looper is in the most advanced state, and the final tightening of needle thread is performed.

D: Needle comes down and the needle tip scoops looper thread. Looper performs elliptic motion. Then, stitch formation is continued to

Sub Classes of Class 400 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 401 Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch

Class 406 Three Threads

"Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch

Class 500 Stitches

Multi-thread over Edge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads. Feature

In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looper thread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, and the stitches look like knitted.This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can expand following the expansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely expanded (knit or the like).

ApplicationCloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO-3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914)

Page 11 of 57

Page 12: Seam & Stitch

Extra: Compound stitching Feature

This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chain stitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine". (MO-3916)

ApplicationGeneral run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc.

Example of stitch formationJIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock

Stitch formation

A: Lower looper scoops needle thread loop.

B: Upper looper thread comes off needle and upper looper scoops lower looper thread.

Page 12 of 57

Page 13: Seam & Stitch

C: Cloth is fed.

D: Needle tip scoops upper looper thread.

E: Lower looper thread which is caught on upper looper comes off. Then, needle thread which is caught on lower looper comes off.

Page 13 of 57

Page 14: Seam & Stitch

F: Needle thread which is before one stitch is tightened at the lower dead point of needle.Stitch formation is continued to A.

Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class

No. of Thread

Typical Uses

Class 502

Two Thread

One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging

Class 503

Two Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging with Class-1 over on Edge of Fabric

Class 504

Three Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming

Class 512

Four Thread

Make Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Class 514

Four Thread

Over edge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Page 14 of 57

Page 15: Seam & Stitch

Class 515

Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Woven and Knits

Class 516

Five Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Woven and Knits

600Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Covering stitches. Feature

There are two or more needle threads and decorative threads on both the right and wrong sides of cloth (generally, upper decorative thread is attached to 2-needle or 3-needle double chain stitch). The stitch is full of elasticity and looks nice.

ApplicationHemming (MFC-7605/AH-1) Decorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc.

Example of stitch formationJIS mark 605 ... 3-needle covering chainstitch JIS mark 602 ... 2-needle covering chain stitch

Stitch formationA: Lower looper scoops needle thread loop,and simultaneously upper decorative looper scoops upper decorative thread.

Page 15 of 57

Page 16: Seam & Stitch

B: Cloth is fed and only right-hand needle is positioned in the outside of decorative thread.Two left-hand needles come down and scoop upper decorative thread.

C: Needles further come down and scoop lower looper thread. And, two right-handneedles enter in between the respective needle threads as shown in the illustration.

Page 16 of 57

Page 17: Seam & Stitch

D: Needle thread comes off lower looper and needle comes down in its lowest position. Lower looper and upper decorative looper are in the most retracted positions. Stitch formation is continued to A .

Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 602 Four Thread Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits

Class 605 Five Thread Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

Class 607 Six Thread Wide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

SEAM:

Seam: Seam is a group of stitch.

Superimposed Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Each Other.

Seam Diagram Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

Page 17 of 57

Page 18: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 a

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , Class 400 , or Class 500

CLASS-1 b

1 or 2 Seaming two plies with one edge folded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 c

1 or 2 Seaming two plies with a finished edge Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 d

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 e

2 Seaming two plies with finished edge in two steps using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 f 3 Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies using Class 400 , Class 500 , or Class 500

Page 18 of 57

Page 19: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 h

2Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies

Class 100 , Class 300 ,or Class 400 AND 103Class

CLASS-1 j 1 or 2Seaming three plies Raw edge finish where

center ply may be ribbon using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 k

1Seaming three plies where center ply may be

folded edge finish using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 l 1 Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 m

2 Joining two Plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 n

1 or 2 Seaming of two plies folded to one face using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 20: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 p

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 q

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 r

1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 s

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 t

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 u

2 Edge Seam with Third ply as tape using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 20 of 57

Page 21: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 v

1 or 2 Internal Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 w

2 Seaming two plies with edges folded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 x

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 y

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 z

3 Butt Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 aa

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 21 of 57

Page 22: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 ab

1 or 2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ac

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ad

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ae

2Seaming two plies with using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 known as "French Seam"

CLASS-1 af

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ag

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 22 of 57

Page 23: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 ah

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 aj 3

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ak 1 or 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 al

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 am 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 an

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 24: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 ao

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ap

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 aq

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ar

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 as 4

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 at

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 24 of 57

Page 25: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 au

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 av

2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 aw 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ax 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 ay 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 az 1 or 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 26: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 ba

3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 AND 2xClass 500

CLASS-1 bb 3

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 bc 1 or 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 bd 1 or 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 be 2

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 bf 3

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 26 of 57

Page 27: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-1 bg 3

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 bh 3

Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Lapped Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are SuperimpClass-5 ed and/or Folded on Each Other

Seam Diagram Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-2 a 1 or 2 Overlap seam of two plies at edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 27 of 57

Page 28: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 b 1 or 2Overlap seam of two plies with one edge

folded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 c 1, 2 or 3Flat Felled Seam using Class 100 , Class 300

, or Class 400

CLASS-2 d 1 or 2Seaming of two plies where one ply is folded

and set in the middle of the other using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 e 1 or 2

Seaming Three plies with finished edges where two plies lay in one direction (Yoke

stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 f 1

Seaming Three plies with finished edges where two plies lay in one direction (Yoke

stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 g 2Seaming three plies with finished edges (Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300 ,or

Class 400

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Page 29: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 j 2Seaming three plies with finished edges and interfacing (Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class

300 ,or Class 400

CLASS-2 k 2Seaming two plies with finished edges (simple Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class

300 ,or Class 400

CLASS-2 l 2 Seaming three plies with finished edges Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 m

2Seaming two plies with finished edges and

interfacing (simple Shirt Placket) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 n 1 or 2 Two plies folded and bound using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 p 2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 29 of 57

Page 30: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 q 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 r 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 2 Seaming two plies in two steps using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 t 2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 u 2Seaming three plies where one binds the

other two behind the face Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 v 1 or 2Seaming two plies where face binds the

second ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 31: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 w

4

Seaming four plies where one ply wraps around two facing plies, bound to another ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class

400

CLASS-2 x 2 Seaming three plies with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 y 2 Seaming three plies with edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 z 3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 aa

3 Seaming three plies with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ab

3 Seaming three plies with using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 32: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 ac

2 Seaming three plies bound with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ad

2+ Seaming three plies bound with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ae

2Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 "Stitched Pleat"

CLASS-2 af

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ag

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ah

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

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Page 33: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 aj

1 or 2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ak

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 al

2 Seaming two plies as a placket using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 am

2Seaming three plies as a placket with

interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 an

2Seaming two plies as a placket with

interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ap

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 33 of 57

Page 34: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 aq

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ar

1 or 2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 as

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 at

2Seaming two plies with seam tape using

Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and two rows of ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 au

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 av

4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

Page 34 of 57

Page 35: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 aw 3

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ay

4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 az

4 Seaming three plies with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bb 4

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bc

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bd

2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 35 of 57

Page 36: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 be

2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

>

CLASS-2 bf 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bg 1 or 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bh 1 or 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bj

1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bk 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 36 of 57

Page 37: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 bl 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bm 3

Seaming two plies using two of Class 100 , Class 300 ,

or Class 400 and one Class 500 stitch Sometimes known as "Make felling"

CLASS-2 bn 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bo 3

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bp 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bq 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 38: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 br 3

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Class-3 1 or 2

Seaming four plies with raw edges using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

w/ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 bt 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 bu

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 bv 3

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 38 of 57

Page 39: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 bw

3 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bx

3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 by

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 bz 3

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ca

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Page 40: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 cb 2

Seaming five plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cc 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cd

3 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ce 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cf 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 40 of 57

Page 41: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 cg 2

Seaming three plies in using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ch

2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cj

3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ck 3

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Class

3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 41 of 57

Page 42: Seam & Stitch

CLASS-2 cm 3

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cn 3

Seaming three plies 1using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 co

4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cp 4

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cq

4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 cr

4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cs

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 ct 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cu

2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cw

3 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 cx

3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 cy

3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon

CLASS-2 cz 2

Seaming seven plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 da 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 db 2

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 dd 2

Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 with interlining

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CLASS-2 do 3

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Bound Seams

Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of Fabric

Right Classick and selectSave to Download

the Diagram

Seam Class

Needle Count Typical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-3 a 1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 b

1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-3 c 1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 d

2 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 e 2 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 f 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 g

2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 h 3

Binding over the edge of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-3 j 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 k 1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 l 4 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 m

3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 n

4 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 p

2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-3 q 3

Binding over the edge of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 r 3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

BClass-1 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Flat Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Edges

Right Classick &Save to Download

Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

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the Diagram

CLASS-4 a 4

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 606Class, or 607Class

CLASS-4 b 2

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class

CLASS-4 c 2

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class

CLASS-4 d 4

Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class, then Class 300 , or Class 400 to join ribbon or

tape

CLASS-4 e 2

Covering stitch Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class with ribbon or tape

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CLASS-4 f 2Covering stitch Seaming two plies using

602Class, or 603Class

Ornamental/Decorative Seam

Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of Fabric

Seam Diagram Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-5 a 1 or 2

Decorative Stitching using Class 100 , Class 300 , Class 400 or 600Class

CLASS-5 b 1 or 2

Decorative Stitching using cordingSometimes called "Pin-tuck" with Cording

Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch

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CLASS-5 c 1 or 2

Decorative Stitching sometimes called "Pin-tuck"

Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch

CLASS-5 d

2Tuck stitching with Cording and Backer

using dual 101Class, 301Class, or 401Class stitch

CLASS-5 e 1

Side Tuck Stitching using 101Class, 301Class, or 401Class stitch

CLASS-5 f 1"Stitch-Crease" stitching using 301Class

stitch - AClass-2 o called "Pin-Tuck" may be repeated

CLASS-5 g

3 Self-Stripe Trim using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 stitch

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CLASS-5 h

1 Piping Trim using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 stitch

Edge Netening /Edge Finish Seam

Fabric Edge is finished with Stitching

Seam Diagram Seam Class

Needle Count

Typical Uses and Stitch Types

CLASS-6 a 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 b

1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 c 1 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-6 d

1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 500 "Serging"

CLASS-6 e 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 500 "Serging" Variation

CLASS-6 f 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 ,Class 400 or 600Class

CLASS-6 g

2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 h

2 Finishing one ply using Class 400

CLASS-6 j 1 or 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-6 k 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 ,Class 300

, or Class 400

CLASS-6 l 2 Finishing one ply using Class 400

CLASS-6 m 1

Finishing one ply using 103Class or 306Class

Blind stitch Hem

CLASS-6 n 2

Finishing two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 Example; Belt Make

CLASS-6 p 1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 Example; Belt Make

CLASS-6 q 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Reinforced Hem with Interlining

CLASS-6 r 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 Reinforced Hem with Interlining

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CLASS-6 s 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 Example; Belt Make

CLASS-6 t 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 u 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 "Spagetti Strap"

CLASS-6 v 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400 and interlining

CLASS-6 w

1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 x 1 or 2Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class

300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-6 y 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 z 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 aa 1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 ab

2 Finishing one ply using 602Class

CLASS-6 ac 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

with interliningMake Belt

CLASS-6 ad 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

with interliningMake Belt

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CLASS-6 ae

1 Finishing one ply using Class 500

CLASS-6 af 3

Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then 602Class

CLASS-6 ag

3 Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then 602Class

CLASS-6 ah 1 or 2

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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