scientific name family colour common names best season nutritional value

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  • 8/14/2019 Scientific Name Family Colour Common Names Best Season Nutritional Value

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    Tomatoes

    Scientific Name : Lycopersicon Esculentum LFamily : Solanaceae (the Poisonous Nightshade

    family)Colour : Red, yellow and orangeCommon names : TomatoBest Season : Throughout the year

    Nutritional Value : 18 kcal, 3 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein,

    0.2 g fat, 10 mg calcium, 0.4 mgiron,0.6 mg vitamin A, 25 mg vitamin C

    per 100 g serving.

    Tomato (latin-juicy wolf peach) is a popular, versatile, easily grown plant with a great

    tasting fruit. Originally cultivated during prehistoric times by the Indians in South

    America, they were long believed to be poisonous. But now tomato is the favourite ofhome vegetable gardeners and is widely cultivated and used throughout the world.

    Tomato is technically a fruit not a vegetable but, they belong to the vegetable garden.

    This warm-season perennials have a variety of cultivars which vary in size and shapefrom the tiny and sweet cherry style tomatoes to big juicy and meaty beefsteak tomatoes.

    Tomatoes are consumed either cooked or raw and are low in calories and an excellent

    source of Vitamins A and C. Uncooked tomatoes also provide Vitamin E.

    Characteristically tomato plants are erect, branched, aromatic and covered with glandularhairs. The base may become woody. A compound leaf has an arrangement of leaflets or

    pinnae in two rows along the axis and is coarsely toothed on the edges. Yellow flowersare borne in terminal inflorescences appearing extra-axillary or lateral. After flowering,tomatoes require 50-60 days to reach fruit maturity. The fruit is botanically classed as a

    berry. Although the full size of the fleshy fruit, called a berry, is attained in half that

    time, the later stage of maturity is marked by external color change with coincidinginternal chemical changes.

    Varieties

    Tomatoes vary in size, taste and growth patters. Some are determinate, they grow only to

    a certain height and they flower and bear fruits only within a certain period of time.Indeterminate varieties grow, flower and set fruit over the entire growing season. Some

    varieties are resistant to certain diseases indicated by one or more letters written besidetheir names. Some varieties are Small Red Cherry, Large Red Cherry, Red Pear, YellowPear etc which have large vines with small fruits, lemon boy, jubilee and sunray with

    yellow and orange fruits, beefsteak, beef master etc with large fruits and so on.

    Propagation and Planting

    Tomatoes are propagated from seeds. Seeds can be sown in pots or seed trays. When theseedlings are large enough to handle they can be transplanted to a pot or on the ground.

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    Tomato plants are also available from nurseries. Prepare a planting hole on the ground

    about 18 inches across and 12 inches deep and plant the tomato plant. The spacing

    between plants depends upon the variety and method of culture. Space dwarf plants 12inches apart in the row, staked plants 15 to 24 inches apart and fenced or ground bed

    plants 24 to 36 inches apart. Some particularly vigorous indeterminate varieties may need

    4 feet between plants and 5 to 6 feet between rows.

    Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted in the warm months after dangerof frost has passed. They grow, flower and produce best when they are planted in the

    sunniest, hottest part of the garden.

    The soil for growing tomatoes should be fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive, with

    a pH in the range 5.5 7.0 and well supplied with organic matter andnutrients. Properpreparation of soil goes a long way in helping the plant grow healthy. The soil should be

    mixed with well rotted manure or other organic matter and a balanced fertilizer say 2-3

    pounds per 100 square feet must be added before planting.

    Plants must be kept well-watered at all times and container-grown plants in particular will

    require more watering as fruit develops. Water directly to the roots and keep the soil

    around moist. If possible, keep water off the leaves. Fertilize on a regular basis. Early

    applications should be high in nitrogen. As blossoming occurs, switch to applicationshigher in Phosphorus and Potassium. Too much nitrogen may result in lots of lush green

    leaves but little fruit. Potash supply is particularly important for the development of

    flavour and ensuring a healthy and good crop.

    Shortly after planting, tomato plants should be given proper support by tying the plant toa stake or by using a cage. Stakes are cheaper and they can be between 4-6 feet tall

    depending on the type of tomato plant. Wire tomato cages are often used to support thewines. When properly supported, tomatoes require a relatively small amount of space, yetare capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds or more of fruit per plant.

    Problems and Care :

    Tomatoes that grows in wet, humid conditions are susceptible to plant disease and leaf

    diseases. Dark brown or blackish spots will appear, followed by yellowing or browningusually to those leaves on the lower branches. Remove infected leaves as soon as they are

    noticed to help reduce spread. Tomatoes are also susceptible to some insect problems

    with cutworms and a few other garden pests.

    Mulching will help to prevent weeds, reduce leaf diseases, it will also help thedistribution of water, and will generally make the tomato plants stronger. Mulches such

    as leaves, grass clippings,compost, straw, can be spread around to enrich the soil once the

    plants are set.

    1. Dont Crowd Seedlings.

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    Photo Provided by Inga Ropsa / stock.xchng.

    If you are starting tomatoes from seed, be sure to give the seedlings room to branch out.Close conditions inhibit their growth, so transplant them as soon as they get their first trueleaves and move them into 4" pots about 2 weeks after that.How to Start Seeds

    Sponsored Links

    Int. Horticultural tech.Wholesale horticultural products Stabilized rooting soils &Trayswww.ihort.comTomatoChina manufacturer of agriculture Reliable suppliers-ask uswww.xinzhongtai.com.cnGrow your own Fruit & VegDetailed instructions how to grow crops in containers & garden

    bedswww.pots2plots.com2. Provide lots of light.Tomato seedlings will need either strong, direct sunlight or 14-18 hours under grow lights.

    Place the young plants only a couple of inches from florescent grow lights. Plant yourtomatoes outside in the sunniest part of your vegetable plot.Plant Grow Lights

    3. Put a fan on your seedlings.It seems tomato plants need to move and sway in the breeze, to develop strong stems.Provide a breeze by turning a fan on them for 5-10 minutes twice a day.4. Preheat the soil in your garden.

    Photo Provided by daniel wildman / stock.xchng.

    Tomatoes love heat. Cover the planting area with black or red plastic a couple of weeks beforeyou intend to plant. Those extra degrees of warmth will translate into earlier tomatoes.Red Mulch and Tomatoes

    5. Bury them.Bury tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot, all the way up to a few top leaves.Tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems. You can either dig a deeper hole orsimply dig a shallow tunnel and lay the plant sideways. It will straighten up and grow towardthe sun. Be careful not to drive your pole or cage into the stem.Video - Tips for Planting Tomatoes

    6. Mulch Later.

    Photo: Marie Iannotti (2009) licensed to About.com, Inc.

    Mulch after the ground has had a chance to warm up. Mulching does conserve water andprevents the soil and soil born diseases from splashing up on the plants, but if you put it downtoo early it will also shade and therefore cool the soil. Try using plastic mulch for heat loverslike tomatoes and peppers. (See Tip #4)Why Bother with Mulch?

    7. Remove the Bottom Leaves.

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  • 8/14/2019 Scientific Name Family Colour Common Names Best Season Nutritional Value

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    Photo: Marie Iannotti (2009) licensed to About.com, Inc.

    Once the tomato plants are about 3' tall, remove the leaves from the bottom 1' of stem. Theseare usually the first leaves to develop fungus problems. They get the least amount of sun andsoil born pathogens can be unintentionally splashed up onto them. Spraying weekly withcompost tea also seems to be effective at warding off fungus diseases.Common Tomato Diseases

    8. Pinch & Prune for More Tomatoes

    Photo: Marie Iannotti (2009) licensed to About.com, Inc.

    Pinch and remove suckers that develop in the crotch joint of two branches. They wont bear

    fruit and will take energy away from the rest of the plant. But go easy on pruning the rest ofthe plant. You can thin leaves to allow the sun to reach the ripening fruit, but its the leavesthat are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars that give flavor to your tomatoes.Should You Prune Tomato Suckers?

    9. Water the Tomato Plants Regularly.

    Photo: Marie Iannotti (2009) licensed to About.com, Inc.

    Water deeply and regularly while the plants are developing. Irregular watering, (missing aweek and trying to make up for it), leads to blossom end rot and cracking. Once the fruit

    begins to ripen, lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its sugars. Dontwithhold water so much that the plants wilt and become stressed or they will drop theirblossoms and possibly their fruit.Blossom End Rot

    10. Getting Them to Set Tomatoes.

    Photo Courtesy of the National Garden Bureau

    Determinatetype tomatoes tend to set and ripen their fruit all at one time, making a largequantity available when youre ready to make sauce. You can get indeterminate type tomatoesto set

    Tomato Diseases - Foliage

    Early Blight Early Blight can affect the foliage, stems and fruit of tomatoes.

    Symptoms: Dark spots with concentric rings develop on older leaves first. The surroundingleaf area may turn yellow. Affected leaves may die prematurely, exposing the fruits to sunscald.

    http://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/a/TomatoProblems.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato_Suckers.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato_Suckers.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/f/BlossomEndRot.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/f/BlossomEndRot.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/problemspest1/a/BlossomDrop.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/g/Determinate.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/g/Determinate.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/g/Indeterminate.htmhttp://z.about.com/d/gardening/1/0/Q/V/Tomato_27.jpghttp://z.about.com/d/gardening/1/0/5/e/Tomato_Blossom_End.jpghttp://z.about.com/d/gardening/1/0/z/V/Tomato_Suckers.jpghttp://z.about.com/d/gardening/1/0/6/e/Tomato_Spots.jpghttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/a/TomatoProblems.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato_Suckers.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/totallytomatoes/qt/Tomato_Suckers.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/f/BlossomEndRot.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/f/BlossomEndRot.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/problemspest1/a/BlossomDrop.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/g/Determinate.htmhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/g/Indeterminate.htm
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    Management: Early Blight fungus overwinters in plant residue and is soil-borne. It canalso come in on transplants. Remove affected plants and thoroughly clean fall gardendebris. Wet weather and stressed plants increase likelihood of attack. Copper and/or sulfursprays can prevent further development of the fungus. The biofungicide Serenade lessensproblems. More info and photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension

    Gray Leaf Spot Gray Leaf Spot affects only the leaves of tomatoes, starting with theoldest leaves. Symptoms: Small, dark spots that can be seen on both the top and bottomsurfaces of the leaves. The spots enlarge and turn a grayish brown. Eventually the centersof the spots crack and fall out. Surrounding leaf areas will turn yellow and the leaves willdry and drop. Fruit production is inhibited.

    Management: Warm, moist conditions worsen gray leaf spot problems. Remove allaffected plants and fall garden debris. Select resistant varieties. More info and photo fromTexas Cooperative Extension

    Late Blight Late blight affects both the leaves and fruit of tomatoes. Late Blight is the

    disease responsible for the Irish Potato Famine. Late Blight spreads rapidly. Cool, wetweather encourages the development of the fungus. If you suspect you have Late Blight,contact your Local Extension Service for definite ID. Symptoms: Greasy looking, irregularlyshaped gray spots appear on leaves. A ring of white mold can develop around the spots,especially in wet weather. The spots eventually turn dry and papery. Blackened areas mayappear on the stems. The fruit also develop large, irregularly shaped, greasy gray spots.

    Management: Copper sprays offer some control. Serenade works best as a deterrent,rather than a cure.

    The Late Blight fungus can overwinter in frost free areas. Since it spreads to potatoes, italso overwinters in potato debris and seed, even in colder areas. Remove all debris anddon't save seed potatoes. More info and photo from Texas Cooperative Extension

    Septoria Leaf Spot Septoria Leaf Spot is sometimes mistaken for Late Blight. Withseptoria leaf spot, the papery patches on the leaves develop tiny, dark specks inside them.Older leaves are affected first.

    Management: Copper sprays and Serenade are somewhat affective at halting the spreadof symptoms.More info and photo from Cornell University Cooperative Extension

    Southern Blight Southern Blight manifests as a white mold growing on the stem near

    the soil line. Dark, round spots will appear on the lower stem and both the outer and innerstem will become discolored. Southern Blight fungus girdles the tomato stem and preventsthe plant from taking up water and nutrients. Young plants may collapse at the soil line.

    Management: Crop rotation seems to help. There has also been some evidence that extracalcium and the use of fertilizers containing ammonium offer some protection. More infoand photo from Clemson University Cooperative Extension

    Verticillium Wilt This name can be misleading, as sometimes the leaves will turnyellow, dry up and never appear to wilt. Verticillium wilt is caused by a soil-borne fungusand it can affect many different vegetables. The fungus can persist in the soil for manyyears, so crop rotation and selection of resistant varieties is crucial. Symptoms include:wilting during the hottest part of the day and recovering at night, yellowing and eventually

    http://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/eblight.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/16.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/16.htmlhttp://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/a/CoopExtension.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/18c.htmlhttp://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Tomato_Septoria.htmhttp://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Tomato_Septoria.htmhttp://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/sblight.htmhttp://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/sblight.htmhttp://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/eblight.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/16.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/16.htmlhttp://gardening.about.com/od/gardenprimer/a/CoopExtension.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/leaves/18c.htmlhttp://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Tomato_Septoria.htmhttp://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/sblight.htmhttp://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheets/Graphics/tomdis/sblight.htm
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    browning between the leaf veins starting with the older, lower leaves and discolorationinside the stems. Verticillium Wilt inhibits the plants ability to take in water and nutrientsand will eventually kill the plant. Verticillium wilt is more pronounced in cool weather.

    Management: Remove affected plants and choose resistant varieties. More info and photofrom University of Minnesota Extension Service

    Read more about tomato diseases that affect the fruit.

    Bacterial Speck

    Bacterial Canker

    Late Blight

    Alternaria Canker

    Buckeye Rot

    Bacterial Spot

    http://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p261vert-tom-pot.htmlhttp://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p261vert-tom-pot.htmlhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/a/TomatoProblems_2.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_spec.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_canker.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/late_blight.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/late_blight.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/alter_canker.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/alter_canker.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/buckeye_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/buckeye_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_spot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_spot.htmlhttp://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p261vert-tom-pot.htmlhttp://www.extension.umn.edu/yardandgarden/ygbriefs/p261vert-tom-pot.htmlhttp://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/a/TomatoProblems_2.htmhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_spec.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_canker.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/late_blight.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/alter_canker.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/buckeye_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/bac_spot.html
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    Radial Cracking

    Sun Scald

    Tomato Mosaic

    Spotted Wilt

    Blossom End Rot

    Pinworm Damage

    Tomato Fruitworm Damage

    Anthracnose

    http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/radial_crack.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/radial_crack.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/sun_scald.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/sun_scald.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/mosaic.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/spot_wilt.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/end_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/pworm.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/insect/tomato_fruitworm.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/anthrac.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/radial_crack.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/sun_scald.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/mosaic.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/spot_wilt.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/end_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/green/pworm.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/insect/tomato_fruitworm.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/anthrac.html
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    Black Mold

    Sour Rot

    Alternaria Canker

    Cottony Leak

    Cloudy Spot

    Spotted Wilt

    Blossom End Rot

    http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/black_mold.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/sour_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/alter_cank.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/alter_cank.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/cotton_leak.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/cloudy_spot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/cloudy_spot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/spot_wilt.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/end_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/early_blight.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/black_mold.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/sour_rot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/alter_cank.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/cotton_leak.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/cloudy_spot.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/spot_wilt.htmlhttp://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ripe/end_rot.html